Use a center wooden pipe made of wood. 12 to 24 pieces of wooden lengths depending on the smoothness you want for the center and then burn the center out. Think about how they make barrels with a slight taper on each side of the wood.
You are welcome. I'm going to do the same thing when I cast a J channel for my rocket mass heater. I just have to figure out how precise I want the burn chamber made to invoke a better vortex. I think I'll design a steel J channel first. I know steel won't last but I'm just in the design stage. @@TheTradesmanChannel
@@TheTradesmanChannel I've used and recommended this method several times and it works great. If you want to go real high-brow, you can coat the outside of the form in alternating layers of silicone carbide from rock tumbling suppliers and liquid spray consistency sodium silicate binder (as needed) before you pack the outer wall, thus giving you a very nice interior that's lined like Satan's A-hole. Perhaps too visual, but you get the idea. Cardboard form burns out pretty clean.
How neat to see the different methods. I made my water glass in a Old carboy no extra heat. I was confident with my end product in fact it was super thick and worked great . I did end up taking a 1/8th of my water glass and heating it up over a Ember lit fold up hiking stove. Thickened up a bit but no difference. That carboy was throwing off some heat. It was about 40° outside the other night and there was steam pouring out of my shed. Cool stuff thanks for the information.
Wow! That was really a great forge build. Sure looked like a good way to warm up a cold barn in a hurry too. I kinda wished that you talked about how you built the burners though, instead of just speeding through it. But, I'll definitely subscribe and check out more of your videos. Edit: Whoops! The video isn't even over yet. Oh, yeah. That is a beautiful blade. Its new owner will be very proud of that.
Excellent way to make a cheap forge, good thinking!, only questionable thing I can see, is that using a plaster of paris mix may be more reflective, still this opens the door to those unable to afford the refractory mixes and hit the ground running.
Morning Jim. Very nicely done. Of course everyone has pointers after your done and I'm no different. A few ideas for your next one. 1) make the bottom a slot to slide a fire brick floor in so you can replace it after time plus then you'll have a nice flat shelf. From experience the flat won't affect the burn quality and it will take a beating also to have the ability to replace it easily is nice to have. Especially with no down time 2) as someone also suggested, try to figure a way to put a slit in your stove pipe first before you pack it for easier removal, although you managed to get it out dam good in the end. I was almost cussing that thing for you as you were cutting it out haha. I would still use the stove pipe though, it made a real nice form. 3) Those burners worked really well. I'm sure you'll be happy with just 2 in it. Having 3 will just drain your fuel twice as fast unless you make 3 slightly smaller burners for it. Last suggestion: 4) you should make a shopping list of all the materials you used and a written description of your process. I'm sure there's some guys that would love to read it as well as see your videos.
Very good suggestions Jason, as soon as I get a chance I'll post up a written how to on the website. I do have some flat refractory slabs I can put in the bottom.
Nice work Jim. If you do that again maybe consider cardboard tube for your center mold, it might be easier to get out. Or just burn it out... LOL Look forward to seeing you pound some more metal out if the forge.
Morning Jim. looks great. We need to learn you up on making concrete forms. The first thing you think about when you make one is HOW you are getting it all apart without destroying your work. You made it but I am sure it was not an easy cut to make threw the forge.
You needed to put the cut in the form pipe before it was filled, you put a fue straps on it to hole it together while it it being filled, When done you remove the straps and collapse the pipe to remove it.
Morning, Jim. Cool videos, thanks for the education. Was glad to see you get the pipe out without slicing the shit out of yourself. I'm glad you're able to find stuff where you left it. With a wife and two kids I never had that experience. lol
Zipping through it was just fine. It was easy to see what you were driving at. EXCEPT for how the burner holes got into the matrix? I'm going to precast mine in.Thanks! Nice work. Sweet - ya nailed it. Pre-split that stove pipe and hold with duct tape or use black pipe and just leave it in. Then you don't have to worry about the galvanize gassing off. So what iff'n that black internal stove pipe breaks down. I got the impression your first bag said 'play sand'. AND you speak of sand -- Where did the kitty litter come in?
Morning Jim....Soooooo... cool! You are going to have a fantastic shop when it's all finished. I think you are going to be retiring earlier than you think!
I have heard that some cat litter and oil dry are the same type of clay. The oil dry I have has a clay feel to it. Also I took a ceramics class and know they use types of ceramics to make brake pads and other high heat stuff of ceramics. You use special cones to fire ceramics to just the right temperature.
Hey! Jim didn't blow up the took shed or get caught on fire! Woohoo! Really great series on how to do this on the cheap. Very impressive. I hope you had plenty of fresh air coming into that too shed so you don't get all messed up breathing CO! Cheers mate!
CO is good for you. If you have the fire right there is little to no CO, that means all of the fuel needs to be consumed. That's how you can have vent free propane fireplaces.
What do you figure you have in it? I'll have to show you the new 72" grinder I'm fabbing up so you can make one and do a video on it. Easy design that's been around forever. I asked about price because I have to save up for a new VFD!
I have used Special Kitty kitty litter, which is bentonite clay, silica sand, and lye to make forge lining for solid fuel forges. I wonder if my mix excluding the lye and including the water glass would stay together better.
Nice forge is it still in use any cracks just wondering how it's held up after all these years before I build mines any changes you would do to it in a future build or any diferent material or recipe mix? I'm doing a pizza oven dome and wondering if this can be done to make it? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
What is the difference between Sodium Silicate 40% (Water Glass for pottery - $19.99/gallon) and creating this kitty litter stuff? I have Red devil Lye(for soap making) and it's not too cheap so buying the premade water glass seems cheaper but for pottery it's only 40%. Is this waterglass that you make 100%? Just curious to the cheapest way because the ready made gallon jug(40%) seems a lot easier.
I think you might need some air regulators of some sort. Even some slot washers that fit around the pipe entering the burner to choke the air feed a bit should work. Great to see it fired up though. Hope you didn't over heat the draw-knife you had in there for a bit. Looks like a winner to me.
I have some sheet metal ones I made but it seems to work better without them. The blast tubes I made are smaller than most that you see so the air is a little less.
That was pretty cool Jim. Interesting music selection considering your goat talk last Friday. Now I'm wondering why you have music like this on hand....
If you want to set water glass off quickly pump co2 thru it. Wrap it up in a couple of rubbish bags to seal it and drop in some vinegar and baking soda in a container to fill the bags up
Perlite is not available in my country,can I use pure silica sand instead of it(99% silica dioxide) Whats your thoughts about following recipe: 2 part clay/Kaolin 1 part silica sand 1/2 part white cement 1 part water glass I want to this recipe for build a new smelting furnace and some melting crucibles, your advice is highly appreciated
Don't believe I saw/heard the proportion of waterglass you used. Got the sand and perlite. Could you give us the amount of waterglass relative to those measures please.
Just in case you are still interested in his recipe, this should be pretty close: 1 parts (by weight) of sodium hydroxide, or lye, or drain cleaner as long as it is 100% lye; 2 parts silica gel, he used Crystal Cat litter - which is close enough. My personal recipe uses 2 parts lye, to 3 parts silica gell. But obviously his method works well too. 5 to 10 parts distilled water, you’ll need enough to completely dissolve your ingredients and the amount varies due to water that may already be in the other ingredients. Start on the low side and add more in the event you need to. In any case, any excess water will be boiled off. Then, in the cheapest 12 quart stainless steel pot you can find, add the water. Because lye destroys carbon steel, you absolutely have to use stainless steel. Now is also a good time to remember some personal protective equipment. Long pants, long sleeve shirt, leather shoes, vinyl gloves, safety glasses or a face shield or both, and a respirator - or do it outdoors, just avoid the fumes. Try not to expose any skin around lye because it is very nasty shit. It would be a good idea to have access to clean water in the event you accidentally splash some on your body, or (God forbid) in your eyes. Calmly dilute it as much as you can and flush the exposed part of yourself with water thoughly. I once had a drop of concentrated lye water get me under my wedding band, by the time I realized it, I had a pretty serious chemical burn. I'm not ashamed to say it hurt like hell for a week or more, and took a month to heal. Now add the lye to the water, it will get very hot and slowly dissolve. Stirring helps move things along, so use a wooden spoon or stick, or a stainless steel spoon, Remember to not get any on you. When it has dessolved add the silica gel, this will also generate heat. Eventually you will have to add more heat to fully dessolve everything. A hotplate or torch will be needed. After it has completely dissolved - like water - you will be done when it reaches a boil and starts to become thick like syrup. Take it off the heat and let cool. I would add 50mL of the cooled water glass to 1 pound of slightly moist, clean sand. He used a mixture of 1 part perlite to 2 parts sand. Then stir for approximately 2 minutes per pound, or longer never hurts. Sorry to mix metric and standard, I assume you bought the sand in a 50 pound bag. Using vinyl gloves is still a good idea, unless you have hands like granite, or you want to get hands like granite. You can test the resulting mixture by compressing a small handful and heating it with the flame of a torch, for 15 to 20 seconds. After it cools it should be quite hard. My apologies if I missed anything. Good luck.
Hello sir is the recipe that you used 2 parts sand to 1 part perlite, and adding sodium silicate till the consistency is right, if the are other ingredients please let me know
Some I have used refractory brick and kaolinite sheets to good effect. Yours' is a cheaper solution. Don't know about life span or spalling. looks good, let me know how it holds up. remember the horse shoe story. don't grab hot pieces bare handed.
Good evening. It is still in use from time to time, I mostly use coal. Since this video I have finished building my big shop and built a big stone forge with a 1/2" plate steel top. As for the gas forge it probably has a good 200 hours on it if I had to guess and so far it has held up well. The next one though will be made from much lighter material, this thing is a bear to move.
very cool Jim. But I'm curious about the tubes did you weld nipples in before adding the refactoring material or did you drill the holes in afterwards.what is the ID size of the tubes? How far back are the ends of the manifold from the forge chamber? Henry Schmidt..
I welded couplings on top and threaded nipples into the forge before putting the refractory in. The burner nozzles are about two inches down into the tubes.
@@TheTradesmanChannel thx . So if I understand correctly, you thread the coupling onto a nipple insert the nipple through a hole in the outer casing and weld the coupling to the casing. Then add another 4" nipple to the other end of the coupling. What diameter are you using for the nipples? I take it that the size is important to create a suitable chamber so as no to melt the nipples. About how thick is the wall thicknes of the refractory material? Have you thought about building a hydraulic press to squeeze your forged material instead of pounding on the anvil.... you stated it's hard on the arm.
I winged it with 1-1/4" nipples and it worked great. I made my orifices and drilled them tiny at first and stepped them up in size until the fuel to air was right.
Just a few questions my friend. Been looking at a lot of different videos on making refractory and some say vermiculite and some say perlite. What are the primary differences between the two? Which is better? Also, your sodium silicate mixture...how much of it do you use per batch of sand and cat litter? I'm planning on doing what you did, but I want to be sure that it will stand up to the test for a long time.
I don't think he actually uses Cat Litter as a aggregate. Rather when he refers to the Kitty Litter he's refering to the "Liquid Glass". There is a common a Sodium Silicate (Na2SiO3 generally for refactory use) synthesis that uses kitty litter (if you go on to do the synthesis, dont use glassware. Go Polypropylene [think pyrex]). Now, I say all this but at the end of the day I dont fully know... Most cat litter is clay based and clay could be used as an aggregate, but my form intuition is the recipe was 2 parts sand (slightly moist?! Big ole caveats), 1 part perlite, add Sodium Silicate (the liquid) to desired consistency...
@@ichjihadi The catlitter he uses is called Crystal Cat Litter and it is actually silica gel. He mixes two parts of it with one part lye to get the water glass. It's all in the previous video to this one.
Dang, Jim. I just knew this was the moment you finally destroyed yourself. I first thought you would probably do it tumbling from a precarious position off a ladder. But when that didn't happen I knew it would happen in the forge. Oh well, guess I'll have to wait a little longer to see what predicament you get into. Be safe.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thank you and I'm pretty sure that this refractory cement that I read about on the around the internet is basically just lighter, less dense, more airy clay. Like egg whites after using the egg beater. Similar principle.
What was the kitty litter the sand? I thought kitty litter was made of been tonight clay. Also what was that syrupy stuff? Maybe I would request a more comprehensive explanation Of your process and also what products R and how to source them.
There was more than one video to this showing the entire process. The cat litter was used to make the syrup. It's sodium silicate or water glass. It acts as a high temp binding agent for the sand and perlite.
In civil engineering for best compaction 1/3 at a time and tamp. Where the kitty litter? 2 parts sand and 1-part perlite (50). Watch twice, (2:23) said add more, but did not say what was added/ Looks to be motor oil you
It's brittle on the very outside but inside it has held up very well. If I had it to do over again I would probably just get forge rated refractory. This works well but I'm cheap so I tend to make everything.
This looks aw some and I'm going to try some your technique. One question: What did you do with the "Cat Litter Water Glass", soak the sand with it? (I think I may have fast forwarded past this information.)
@@TheTradesmanChannel ahhh.. Ok that makes sense. For some reason I read cat litter AND waterglass. Got it. Have you tried using clay and waterglass for anything by chance?
@@anomikak1062 yes, i have. I've done it many times. Also done what this creator did here. Using sand and perlite. You can use clay and waterglass, that's fine. However, I would recommend at least some filtered play sand in the mix. But if all you got is waterglass and kitty litter, it will work as forge lining, but you must, must, must use a blender or what have you to take the litter aggregate from rice grain (or even small pebble) size down to just above blast sand consistency. I'm not talking powder or silt, that's too fine and you want a little air between the particulate so that the gasses slow vented by the drying and curing water glass can make their way up and out of the mixture without causing crumbliness or cracking. You should use a fire clay special made for this purpose, though, and you should mix it with sand of very fine consistency, like blast sand or pool sand. Also, get some perlite and blend that up, too.
Not sure I understand the 'reflection vs insulation' issue. Insulation does not mean absorbing heat, it means not letting it pass. Perlite is an insulation, not a reflectant as far as I know. You could also use aircrete, which has a high insulation value itself and with waterglass will easily withstand the temperatures and be way lighter. I can't believe you didn't cut the tube first and fill it with sand to make it easy to remove.
Hello. Forging temps will melt it down and contaminate the projects...plus this stuff galvanized...the fumes from that stuff kills. How you doing today?
TheTradesmanChannel cool. I just need the forge itself, I can make a stand for it. Also, no front or back on it. I'll put a shelf on the stand to put fire brick to close up the openings, but be able to put longer items through it when needed. Thanks, this would be a great first hobby forge for sure.
Use a center wooden pipe made of wood. 12 to 24 pieces of wooden lengths depending on the smoothness you want for the center and then burn the center out. Think about how they make barrels with a slight taper on each side of the wood.
That is an excellent idea, thank you for sharing.
You are welcome. I'm going to do the same thing when I cast a J channel for my rocket mass heater.
I just have to figure out how precise I want the burn chamber made to invoke a better vortex. I think I'll design a steel J channel first. I know steel won't last but I'm just in the design stage. @@TheTradesmanChannel
I can't remember the channel but there was one who built his J tube using cement board to make the inner form. It looked like it worked well.
Wow, that would be a lot of work for a temporary use.
@@TheTradesmanChannel I've used and recommended this method several times and it works great. If you want to go real high-brow, you can coat the outside of the form in alternating layers of silicone carbide from rock tumbling suppliers and liquid spray consistency sodium silicate binder (as needed) before you pack the outer wall, thus giving you a very nice interior that's lined like Satan's A-hole. Perhaps too visual, but you get the idea. Cardboard form burns out pretty clean.
"The cat litter stinks"
You need to use it before the cat does mate
It was a perfumed litter you goofball.
That's hilarious
I like your work DUDE You seem like a real person.
How neat to see the different methods. I made my water glass in a
Old carboy no extra heat. I was confident with my end product in fact it was super thick and worked great . I did end up taking a 1/8th of my water glass and heating it up over a Ember lit fold up hiking stove. Thickened up a bit but no difference. That carboy was throwing off some heat. It was about 40° outside the other night and there was steam pouring out of my shed. Cool stuff thanks for the information.
That might be my next method
Nice build looks like it works good. Thanks for sharing the info. I will have another video out shortly today.
Good deal.
That long shot of it cooling down was great.
Good afternoon
You are a man of many talents! I hope whoever you're working for pays you well.
They do, I can't complain...two more years and we're out of debt, after that I'm hoping to make a living out of my shop.
Wow! That was really a great forge build. Sure looked like a good way to warm up a cold barn in a hurry too. I kinda wished that you talked about how you built the burners though, instead of just speeding through it. But, I'll definitely subscribe and check out more of your videos.
Edit: Whoops! The video isn't even over yet. Oh, yeah. That is a beautiful blade. Its new owner will be very proud of that.
Nice Work, that really looks like a great way for the common guy to build a legit home forge. Keep it up!
Thanks Dave, it wasn't hard at all.
Excellent way to make a cheap forge, good thinking!, only questionable thing I can see, is that using a plaster of paris mix may be more reflective, still this opens the door to those unable to afford the refractory mixes and hit the ground running.
i made a forge just like this one thanks to your instructions. thank you good sir.
I hope it works well for you. A simple design.
One word for my viewing pleasure Jim, AWESOME!!
Thanks Jeff!
Morning Jim. Very nicely done. Of course everyone has pointers after your done and I'm no different. A few ideas for your next one.
1) make the bottom a slot to slide a fire brick floor in so you can replace it after time plus then you'll have a nice flat shelf. From experience the flat won't affect the burn quality and it will take a beating also to have the ability to replace it easily is nice to have. Especially with no down time
2) as someone also suggested, try to figure a way to put a slit in your stove pipe first before you pack it for easier removal, although you managed to get it out dam good in the end. I was almost cussing that thing for you as you were cutting it out haha. I would still use the stove pipe though, it made a real nice form.
3) Those burners worked really well. I'm sure you'll be happy with just 2 in it. Having 3 will just drain your fuel twice as fast unless you make 3 slightly smaller burners for it. Last suggestion:
4) you should make a shopping list of all the materials you used and a written description of your process. I'm sure there's some guys that would love to read it as well as see your videos.
Very good suggestions Jason, as soon as I get a chance I'll post up a written how to on the website. I do have some flat refractory slabs I can put in the bottom.
Nice work Jim. If you do that again maybe consider cardboard tube for your center mold, it might be easier to get out. Or just burn it out... LOL
Look forward to seeing you pound some more metal out if the forge.
That pipe was poorly thought out on my part. Thought I was going to ruin the entire lining.
Morning Jim. looks great.
We need to learn you up on making concrete forms. The first thing you think about when you make one is HOW you are getting it all apart without destroying your work. You made it but I am sure it was not an easy cut to make threw the forge.
It sucked. PVC would be been easier but alas there was none on hand large enough.
You needed to put the cut in the form pipe before it was filled, you put a fue straps on it to hole it together while it it being filled, When done you remove the straps and collapse the pipe to remove it.
Wish I had thought of that
Wow Jim! That was really interesting! Never look at kitty litter the same again!! Love the videos!
Good morning Donnell.
Wow! Impressive build there Jim.
Hello Gary
Morning, Jim. Cool videos, thanks for the education. Was glad to see you get the pipe out without slicing the shit out of yourself. I'm glad you're able to find stuff where you left it. With a wife and two kids I never had that experience. lol
It hardly ever happens here, I just got lucky.
Zipping through it was just fine. It was easy to see what you were driving at. EXCEPT for how the burner holes got into the matrix? I'm going to precast mine in.Thanks! Nice work. Sweet - ya nailed it. Pre-split that stove pipe and hold with duct tape or use black pipe and just leave it in. Then you don't have to worry about the galvanize gassing off. So what iff'n that black internal stove pipe breaks down. I got the impression your first bag said 'play sand'. AND you speak of sand -- Where did the kitty litter come in?
Morning Jim....Soooooo... cool! You are going to have a fantastic shop when it's all finished. I think you are going to be retiring earlier than you think!
You just never know, I hope so.
I have heard that some cat litter and oil dry are the same type of clay. The oil dry I have has a clay feel to it. Also I took a ceramics class and know they use types of ceramics to make brake pads and other high heat stuff of ceramics. You use special cones to fire ceramics to just the right temperature.
Hey! Jim didn't blow up the took shed or get caught on fire! Woohoo! Really great series on how to do this on the cheap. Very impressive. I hope you had plenty of fresh air coming into that too shed so you don't get all messed up breathing CO! Cheers mate!
CO is good for you. If you have the fire right there is little to no CO, that means all of the fuel needs to be consumed. That's how you can have vent free propane fireplaces.
Howdy neighbor! That was pretty awesome! Who would have thought kitty litter!🤔 Freaking awesome! Enjoy brother.
It's Harold.
Yeah buddy!!!!! Yupppppp!
It’s alive. Great job Jim
Good morning
Fine Jim. I hope you reach your goals of forging.
Me too
Damn nice Jim. Makes my brick forge look a bit shabby lol. I think you've made me a kitty litter convert
It's real crunchy...
What do you figure you have in it? I'll have to show you the new 72" grinder I'm fabbing up so you can make one and do a video on it. Easy design that's been around forever.
I asked about price because I have to save up for a new VFD!
It probably cost me $40 to make the refractory, everything else was free.
Another DIY Forge Masterpiece by none other than my good friend Jim @ TheTrademan Channel. I'm pumped to make one of these!
-Will
It's pretty easy, to for it.
Morning Jim, packing that forge with Folger's coffee crystals was a great idea. Hot coffee while blacksmithing! Michael : )
Good morning Michael.
Got good ideas from this. thanks.
Good, I like to hear that.
Damn Jim, that came out awesome. Cannot wait to see what you can do with it
Thanks Tim.
Bet that warmed the shop up!
It sure did, real fast too.
I have used Special Kitty kitty litter, which is bentonite clay, silica sand, and lye to make forge lining for solid fuel forges. I wonder if my mix excluding the lye and including the water glass would stay together better.
It might, to be honest I've never tried the lye.
Good afternoon Brother Jim good video.
Good afternoon Shawn. Having a good day?
Nice forge is it still in use any cracks just wondering how it's held up after all these years before I build mines any changes you would do to it in a future build or any diferent material or recipe mix? I'm doing a pizza oven dome and wondering if this can be done to make it? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
I built a new ribbon forge last year but a friend of mine still uses it. Works fine and the refractory is still good.
Too COOL! And so much faster heating than the coal forge. Just great!
Thanks
Wow, that was awesome.
Thanks buddy. Little safer than sucking in coal fumes I bet too.
Jim great video as per usual, I have watched a few TH-cam video's and some have used mig welding Nozzle's for the jet's
There are a lot of things you can use, I generally use what I have on hand.
Jim could a BBQ gas bottle run a gas forge? and could a gas forge be made out of furnace brick's ?
It sure could Doug, check out Farrier Sam on TH-cam. Him and I were just talking about you.
Hi JimDo you mean Mythic Industries ?
Not sure Doug
Great talent! I would be cool if there were a step by step to build this. I have a gas forge but I love making things from nothing!
What is the difference between Sodium Silicate 40% (Water Glass for pottery - $19.99/gallon) and creating this kitty litter stuff? I have Red devil Lye(for soap making) and it's not too cheap so buying the premade water glass seems cheaper but for pottery it's only 40%. Is this waterglass that you make 100%? Just curious to the cheapest way because the ready made gallon jug(40%) seems a lot easier.
This stuff is a bit more concentrated.
Wow that was fun more interesting that something at NASA cool 😎
Hi David. I'm pretty impressed with how well it worked.
I think you might need some air regulators of some sort. Even some slot washers that fit around the pipe entering the burner to choke the air feed a bit should work. Great to see it fired up though. Hope you didn't over heat the draw-knife you had in there for a bit. Looks like a winner to me.
I have some sheet metal ones I made but it seems to work better without them. The blast tubes I made are smaller than most that you see so the air is a little less.
Freaking Awesome Jim. So cool.
Thanks buddy
That was pretty cool Jim. Interesting music selection considering your goat talk last Friday. Now I'm wondering why you have music like this on hand....
Next time you could try using a plastic watering can with the spout cut short, to pour your mix.
.
If you want to set water glass off quickly pump co2 thru it. Wrap it up in a couple of rubbish bags to seal it and drop in some vinegar and baking soda in a container to fill the bags up
Thanks for the tip, I'll try that out.
Nice video, perlite is known but I didn't understand what is the type of other sand, is it normal clay?
The sand is just run of the mill playground sand.
Perlite is not available in my country,can I use pure silica sand instead of it(99% silica dioxide)
Whats your thoughts about following recipe:
2 part clay/Kaolin
1 part silica sand
1/2 part white cement
1 part water glass
I want to this recipe for build a new smelting furnace and some melting crucibles, your advice is highly appreciated
That is kool good job on that
Thanks Ron, good evening
what temperatures can this forge reach please?
I don't know they exact temp but I have forge welded with it just fine.
@@TheTradesmanChannel how thick?
It ends up being around 3" think. I have since built a ribbon burner forge and it is much better.
Don't believe I saw/heard the proportion of waterglass you used. Got the sand and perlite. Could you give us the amount of waterglass relative to those measures please.
Just in case you are still interested in his recipe, this should be pretty close:
1 parts (by weight) of sodium hydroxide, or lye, or drain cleaner as long as it is 100% lye;
2 parts silica gel, he used Crystal Cat litter - which is close enough.
My personal recipe uses 2 parts lye, to 3 parts silica gell. But obviously his method works well too.
5 to 10 parts distilled water, you’ll need enough to completely dissolve your ingredients and the amount varies due to water that may already be in the other ingredients. Start on the low side and add more in the event you need to. In any case, any excess water will be boiled off.
Then, in the cheapest 12 quart stainless steel pot you can find, add the water. Because lye destroys carbon steel, you absolutely have to use stainless steel. Now is also a good time to remember some personal protective equipment. Long pants, long sleeve shirt, leather shoes, vinyl gloves, safety glasses or a face shield or both, and a respirator - or do it outdoors, just avoid the fumes. Try not to expose any skin around lye because it is very nasty shit. It would be a good idea to have access to clean water in the event you accidentally splash some on your body, or (God forbid) in your eyes. Calmly dilute it as much as you can and flush the exposed part of yourself with water thoughly. I once had a drop of concentrated lye water get me under my wedding band, by the time I realized it, I had a pretty serious chemical burn. I'm not ashamed to say it hurt like hell for a week or more, and took a month to heal.
Now add the lye to the water, it will get very hot and slowly dissolve. Stirring helps move things along, so use a wooden spoon or stick, or a stainless steel spoon, Remember to not get any on you. When it has dessolved add the silica gel, this will also generate heat. Eventually you will have to add more heat to fully dessolve everything. A hotplate or torch will be needed. After it has completely dissolved - like water - you will be done when it reaches a boil and starts to become thick like syrup. Take it off the heat and let cool.
I would add 50mL of the cooled water glass to 1 pound of slightly moist, clean sand.
He used a mixture of 1 part perlite to 2 parts sand.
Then stir for approximately 2 minutes per pound, or longer never hurts. Sorry to mix metric and standard, I assume you bought the sand in a 50 pound bag. Using vinyl gloves is still a good idea, unless you have hands like granite, or you want to get hands like granite.
You can test the resulting mixture by compressing a small handful and heating it with the flame of a torch, for 15 to 20 seconds. After it cools it should be quite hard. My apologies if I missed anything. Good luck.
@@robertbanks8870 Thanks for the info, always useful.
@@maxkennedy5073 My pleasure.
What is the outer tube you packed the cat liter, sand and perlite mix in?
It is steel pipe
What was the dark viscous liquid added at 2:24?
That was homemade sodium silicate. I made it in the video before this one.
think I heard that one before......... If ya can't be with the one you love Love the one your with.
thumbs up for the song :)
What was that molasses looking stuff
Hello sir is the recipe that you used 2 parts sand to 1 part perlite, and adding sodium silicate till the consistency is right, if the are other ingredients please let me know
You nailed it, that's all there is to it.
Any idea of the ratio and materials. It looks like its just perlite, sand, kitty litter, water glass
I covered it in the video before. That cat litter is what is used to make the water glass.
Did you add honey to the mix ❓
What Cat Litter? All I saw was Perlite and Sand used in your mix. So what was your ratio of Sand, Perlite and Cat Litter?
The liquid I used as a binder was made from car litter and lye.
Woo hoo!! pretty impressive..
Thanks John
Nice build! Just curious why you didn't just leave that inner liner where it is instead of going to the trouble of pulling it out?
I didn't even think to do that.
Is there anything you'd do differently now?
Yes, I built a ribbon burner forge after this one and to be honest it is ten times the forge the one in this video is.
couple of i/1 to 1/3 diam. end plugs, save some gas and increase heat. might even allow for control of oxidizing to reducing env. is cool!
Hi Tim, you're busy tonight, I like that. I actually have refractory plates I'll be using for that. You sound like a guy with experience.
Some I have used refractory brick and kaolinite sheets to good effect. Yours' is a cheaper solution. Don't know about life span or spalling. looks good, let me know how it holds up. remember the horse shoe story.
don't grab hot pieces bare handed.
Brilliant. I'll keep you posted. I reline a lot of boilers and heat exchangers in my job so I'll be watching this very carefully.
You got the best music of all the forge videos i have ever watched on TH-cam. Is this forge still in use at this moment?, and if so; aproxi. On hrs?
Good evening. It is still in use from time to time, I mostly use coal. Since this video I have finished building my big shop and built a big stone forge with a 1/2" plate steel top. As for the gas forge it probably has a good 200 hours on it if I had to guess and so far it has held up well. The next one though will be made from much lighter material, this thing is a bear to move.
I'm a bit confused. Your title says you used cat litter but I only saw you put play sand and pumice in with the water glass.
Cat litter is what the main ingredient was made from, sodium silicate.
You are the best
very cool Jim. But I'm curious about the tubes did you weld nipples in before adding the refactoring material or did you drill the holes in afterwards.what is the ID size of the tubes? How far back are the ends of the manifold from the forge chamber?
Henry Schmidt..
I welded couplings on top and threaded nipples into the forge before putting the refractory in. The burner nozzles are about two inches down into the tubes.
@@TheTradesmanChannel thx . So if I understand correctly, you thread the coupling onto a nipple insert the nipple through a hole in the outer casing and weld the coupling to the casing. Then add another 4" nipple to the other end of the coupling. What diameter are you using for the nipples? I take it that the size is important to create a suitable chamber so as no to melt the nipples. About how thick is the wall thicknes of the refractory material? Have you thought about building a hydraulic press to squeeze your forged material instead of pounding on the anvil.... you stated it's hard on the arm.
I winged it with 1-1/4" nipples and it worked great. I made my orifices and drilled them tiny at first and stepped them up in size until the fuel to air was right.
Just a few questions my friend. Been looking at a lot of different videos on making refractory and some say vermiculite and some say perlite. What are the primary differences between the two? Which is better? Also, your sodium silicate mixture...how much of it do you use per batch of sand and cat litter? I'm planning on doing what you did, but I want to be sure that it will stand up to the test for a long time.
I don't think he actually uses Cat Litter as a aggregate. Rather when he refers to the Kitty Litter he's refering to the "Liquid Glass". There is a common a Sodium Silicate (Na2SiO3 generally for refactory use) synthesis that uses kitty litter (if you go on to do the synthesis, dont use glassware. Go Polypropylene [think pyrex]).
Now, I say all this but at the end of the day I dont fully know... Most cat litter is clay based and clay could be used as an aggregate, but my form intuition is the recipe was 2 parts sand (slightly moist?! Big ole caveats), 1 part perlite, add Sodium Silicate (the liquid) to desired consistency...
@@ichjihadi The catlitter he uses is called Crystal Cat Litter and it is actually silica gel. He mixes two parts of it with one part lye to get the water glass. It's all in the previous video to this one.
02:10 turn your volume down if youre wearing headphones or else your ears are going to be in some pain.
How has it held up over time?? 2 Sand and 1 Perlite..
So far it has held up very well. Still solid.
Nice!
Thank you. I've since built a ribbon burner forge that works much better.
Dang, Jim. I just knew this was the moment you finally destroyed yourself. I first thought you would probably do it tumbling from a precarious position off a ladder. But when that didn't happen I knew it would happen in the forge. Oh well, guess I'll have to wait a little longer to see what predicament you get into. Be safe.
You know, I get that a lot...I'll be here as long as I can
BAD ASS JOB!!!!!! That's FU!!!!!ING awesome
Hey Paul
How much water glass did you use to make that forge?
Maybe a quart
so, what if you left the metal used to form the inside there? would it be a problem?
If it wasn't galvanised it would probably burn out over time. Getting it out sucked a little bit.
Nice project! Personally, I would use a cement mixer, clay and foaming agents to create a new kind of refractory.
I like your thinking.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Thank you and I'm pretty sure that this refractory cement that I read about on the around the internet is basically just lighter, less dense, more airy clay.
Like egg whites after using the egg beater. Similar principle.
What was the kitty litter the sand? I thought kitty litter was made of been tonight clay. Also what was that syrupy stuff? Maybe I would request a more comprehensive explanation Of your process and also what products R and how to source them.
There was more than one video to this showing the entire process. The cat litter was used to make the syrup. It's sodium silicate or water glass. It acts as a high temp binding agent for the sand and perlite.
In civil engineering for best compaction 1/3 at a time and tamp. Where the kitty litter? 2 parts sand and 1-part perlite (50). Watch twice, (2:23) said add more, but did not say what was added/ Looks to be motor oil you
That motor oil looking stuff is actually made from kitty litter. There was more than one video to this project.
I'm confused in two points
1-is it sand or soil?
2-how much use sodium silicate
It is sand and you mix just enough sodium silicate in to be able to have it hold shape.
Nice sir, but what is that sticky substance in bottle? What the name of that? Reply please.
That is called water glass, I did a video how to make it.
@@TheTradesmanChannel thanks, water glass available on online is it same or different?
It's pretty much all the same. You can get it online but it is very easy and cheap to make.
That's cool
Mornin Jim just a couple days behind. What size propane tank are you running off of?
I ran this off of a grill cylinder.
was there any set up (cure) time for the refractory or Did you just fire this forge to cure it? I Am currently building one like this.
I fired it up pretty quickly, this type of refractory cures with heat. You just want to do it slowly.
Superb!
Good morning Frankie
Packing it down crushes the pearlite. Just tap to settle it for better performance and less materials.
Great advice. I ended up building a nice ribbon burner forge with castable refractory, much happier with it.
How hard did it become after you heated it? Is it brittle at all?
It's brittle on the very outside but inside it has held up very well. If I had it to do over again I would probably just get forge rated refractory. This works well but I'm cheap so I tend to make everything.
Thanks for the comment. 👍
This looks aw some and I'm going to try some your technique. One question: What did you do with the "Cat Litter Water Glass", soak the sand with it? (I think I may have fast forwarded past this information.)
I mixed the waterless with sand and perlite just enough to form a ball, then I formed it.
@@TheTradesmanChannel so no cat litter (bentonite clay) then? Or are you calling sand cat litter here?
No, there was more than one video to this build. I made water glass using cat litter and pure lye. The water glass acts as a refractory binding agent.
@@TheTradesmanChannel ahhh.. Ok that makes sense. For some reason I read cat litter AND waterglass. Got it. Have you tried using clay and waterglass for anything by chance?
@@anomikak1062 yes, i have.
I've done it many times. Also done what this creator did here. Using sand and perlite.
You can use clay and waterglass, that's fine. However, I would recommend at least some filtered play sand in the mix. But if all you got is waterglass and kitty litter, it will work as forge lining, but you must, must, must use a blender or what have you to take the litter aggregate from rice grain (or even small pebble) size down to just above blast sand consistency. I'm not talking powder or silt, that's too fine and you want a little air between the particulate so that the gasses slow vented by the drying and curing water glass can make their way up and out of the mixture without causing crumbliness or cracking.
You should use a fire clay special made for this purpose, though, and you should mix it with sand of very fine consistency, like blast sand or pool sand. Also, get some perlite and blend that up, too.
How long did this last
I still use it, it's been close to two years. I'm going to make a different one though with angle iron and fire brick.
interesting, what sort of sand did u use.
Good evening, just play sand I bought at Lowes. Same with the Perlite.
Ok thanks.
Would brikkies sand do???
No problem, thanks for watching.
Just wondering why you didn't use Aircrete with refractory glass?
I was trying this out with what I had available locally. It's still holding up decently.
@@TheTradesmanChannel Yeah. I have just been watching a lot of "Aircrete" videos. 😂🤣 They were mainly building "rocket" stoves or heaters.
Not sure I understand the 'reflection vs insulation' issue. Insulation does not mean absorbing heat, it means not letting it pass. Perlite is an insulation, not a reflectant as far as I know. You could also use aircrete, which has a high insulation value itself and with waterglass will easily withstand the temperatures and be way lighter. I can't believe you didn't cut the tube first and fill it with sand to make it easy to remove.
is this forge still functional?
It is, I prefer my coal forge but this works just fine.
How would it hold up to flux
That I am not sure of
So you haven't forge welded in it. Seems to heat up nice
Hi Jim, just curious. Why not leave the stovepipe in?
Hello. Forging temps will melt it down and contaminate the projects...plus this stuff galvanized...the fumes from that stuff kills. How you doing today?
Glad I asked. I probably would have had to learn that the hard way! Thank you. Doing pretty good! Even better, once I eat! :) Subscribed!
Welcome aboard. I jump all over the place, hope you like many different things.
Exactly why I subscribed. :)
Morning Jim. How much would you charge for one of those forges?
I have no idea but when I'm at a spot I can make more I can figure it out.
TheTradesmanChannel cool. I just need the forge itself, I can make a stand for it. Also, no front or back on it. I'll put a shelf on the stand to put fire brick to close up the openings, but be able to put longer items through it when needed. Thanks, this would be a great first hobby forge for sure.
I have refractory plates for doors, just have to weld up the frames.
TheTradesmanChannel that's cool, just saying if I can raise the funds for a forge, I want the ends open.
2 parts sand 1 part perlite. Thanks
-Will
Hi Jim. The forge looks great. I'm interested in seeing you build the rest of it. Want to make my own someday.
We can do that, rain is coming so we'll be in the pit of despair here and there.
Wow , that was awesome!
How long does it take to cure completely?
Probably five or six good long firings. I fired it for about three hours and it still needs more.
Whats the name of that song?
Curious forge is still in use two years later
It is, but not often. I run coal most of the time but it is really nice to just fire up the gas forge for quick forging sessions.
I cover the tube with wax paper when I make my furnace's.