Natural Alternative to Paint for Wood Siding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2024
- I don't like acrylic and oil based paints. They're usually derived from fossil fuel and they inevitably peel and need to be scraped and reapplied after several years. In this video, I show you a natural alternative to paint for wood siding and other outdoor wood applications. The ingredients for this natural paint are derived from plants and this alternative doesn't peel or fade. It's cheaper to make than synthetic paints and incredibly easy to mix up from basic ingredients. With just raw linseed oil, turpentine, and earth pigments you can throw together this natural finish for any outdoor wood product. It's the perfect choice for painting wood siding on a house, a fence, or any outdoor wood product or project.
Wood Treatment Recipe
2 parts Turpentine
3 parts Raw Linseed Oil
Earth pigment to taste
#naturalpaint #paintalternative #naturalfinishes
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Good stuff. I'm happy to see folks going back to the old ways. The reason our barns are traditionally red painted is exactly because of what you demonstrated. The Red Ochre (rust) has natural anti-microbial/fungal properties in it that inhibits rot, and the European settlers brought that ancestral knowledge with them. In your mix, the turpentine is what's really helping to prevent rot. Turpentine is made as you showed, but what a lot of people don't realize is that the Pine Tar is actually the stronger and thicker version that's often called Stockholm Tar because it was once so necessary to keep ships and organic ropes from rotting away as they sailed the oceans. Turpentine is a great thinner and solvent, and is produced almost as a byproduct of making Pine Tar. The turpentine and pine tar have natural anti-microbial properties to them, and you'll find no better wood preservative out there. Thankfully, you can still buy Pine Tar at your local livestock places as it's recognized for it's healing properties and often used as a poultice for animals because it is so good at preventing cuts from getting infected. Makes a great soap for people, too!
Thanks for the additional information! Very interesting and useful.
My old timers recipe is equal parts White distilled vinegar, turpentine, and linseed oil. the vinegar is supposed to be an antifungal/antibacterial agent.
The classic swedish recipe is ironoxide boiled in water with rye flour and then adding a little linseseed oil. That has basically covered all barns in Sweden from the 1700s to the 1950s.
I think it's called Red Oxide paint (as manufactured with a Linseed oil matrix).
So great on timing im watching my torch job fade
Congrats on the 40k subs! Nice video and sweet to mix in the bird sounds in the end.
Funnily enough I used this method to stain some wood not too long ago but the only pigment I could get was an oxide so it did settle quite a bit in the bottom.
Thanks again and happy days.
You are probably one of my longest subscribed channels.
Thanks for following my channel for so long! I haven't tried oxides for pigmenting before. I get the idea that they go a lot further for the amount you use. I guess you just have to keep stirring to keep them integrated.
Glad you liked the bird songs.
This is really nice looking and its probably way better than paint or those expensive treatments you can buy, I think I will give this a try.
for higher viscosity, use vaseline or bee wax. Heat it up until the wax is liquid cool it down and shake it beetween. So you get viscous linseed oil paint.
You can use it for everything .... wood stone iron metal or car underground protection (Fe2O3 pigment or Al + Zn powder)
I'd prefer the beeswax since the vaseline is derived from fossil fuel. I recently refinished the surface of my dining room table with a beeswax, tung oil, linseed oil, and citrus solvent treatment. It was the consistency of a salve. It has worked really well on the table and is much more natural than polyurethane.
Great video...glad it was sent to me! Say high too Dancing Rabbit for me. Its been a few years since I visited...
Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Absolutely beautiful!! Thank you! 😎😊
Great video! Thank you very much.
Would you recommend using similar wood paint for the interior of the house ?
I would use a different mixture for interior. If you are talking about trim, there are many other options such as tung oil and linseed oil mixtures, waxes, etc. But I'd recommend something like a citrus solvent for indoors even though those have turpines as well. But they smell better than turpentine. There are many premixed products offered by natural finish companies. They can be pricey but you can always get ideas and try mixing your own. Just straight linseed or tung oil can work fine on woodwork, but you could also mix in a pigment if you wanted a color. The solvent helps the oil penetrate deeper and protect deeper, but this might not be necessary indoors.
Interesting and good job
Slightly unrelated question!
Could a person use this mixture to paint with, in a 'Fine Art' sense?
Using less of the turpentine and more of the pigment?
I'd like to find alternatives to solvent based paints that are more Earth friendly.
I didn't realize gum turpentine existed!
Would you say beeswax would be good to add to it, as a previous commenter said, to increase viscosity?
You might not have the answers to these questions, but I'm super curious and very inspired by your video! (:
Yes, I believe that oil paint is just linseed oil with earth pigment and can be thinned with turpentine. If you added beeswax, you'd have to heat the mixture up to melt the wax and incorporate it. You have to be careful not to ignite it because that would be bad, but usually the heating to melt is much lower temp than ignition temp. But turpentine is very volatile, so that's what you'd have to be careful of. An induction burner wouldn't have the flame or concentrated heat, so would be safer.
Love this video. Apparently I can't purchase Turpentine in CA. Can you recommend a citrus solvent? My search has a mix of citrus strippers and cleaning products, not just a specific citrus solvent. Thank you!
Milk Paint Company has a citrus solvent you can use. It's expensive. Usually the citrus stuff is a lot more expensive and I'd guess with the spread of greening disease that's killing the orange groves in Florida, orange byproducts are getting more expensive. I used to use a product called CitraSolv, but they've stopped selling it in any size bigger than 8 oz, so it's super expensive.
This is great Sir. Could one perhaps say that what you have concocted amounts to being, in effect, a diluted version of Red Oxide paint, albeit with much more Linseed Oil base added (providing that a tin of Red Oxide paint were to be Linseed oil based in the first place). Kind regards.
Not sure. I'm not familiar with red oxide paint, but looking it up it seems to have lead in it, which this recipe doesn't include.
the color came out great, beautiful tone. would blue or yellow pigments be as visible?
Yes I believe they would. You might have to put more coats on. You can see the green color on the trim in the other building at DR that used this method.
In my xperience blue pigments fade fast ( 4 to 5 years) a d un evenly from one side of a house to another, or under overhangs etc.
Also i don’t know of a natural blue pigment. They are metal oxides. And unfortunately toxic oxides.
@@TheEmbrio Earthpigments.com says " Oxides are reliable tinters suitable for all mediums including arts and crafts, plasters, cements and more. They are manufactured by the synthesis of natural ingredients, being non-toxic and responsibly produced." Why do you think they are considered toxic? There are some lighter blue mineral pigments, but the oxides give a deeper color.
Light yellow is a traditional colour for wooden houses in denmark, and often used in sweden too so i assume its a good colour.
Love it, thanks! I'm assuming this could of course be used on plywood siding, yes? And what would you say would be the coldest temp at which it could be successfully applied?
Yes it should work on any kind of wood siding, though plywood is less than ideal alone as siding and is better for sheathing on a building. I would say probably anything below 50 degrees F would take a lot longer to dry.
Great work thank yoU
Thanks for the info. Can it be used over painted composite wood siding?
It would work with something that's porous. I don't think composite is porous.
Wow, . Can this be applied at 40 Fahrenheit outside temperature?. I want to be ready for the snow and freeze. Thank you
I would guess it could be. It won't dry as fast in the cooler temps and might not soak in as well as it would in warmer temps.
TY!!!
I love it. The main issue with petroleum based products is that they are carcinogens. Can't seem to find that exact turpentine.
Likely a lot of stuff is carcinogenic. I don't know if turpentine is as well. I got my turpentine at DoItBest Hardware, and my local hardware store can special order anything like that if I need it.
can this be applied on old Cedarwood that was previously stained not with this solution, but with a commercial stain?
If the wood is porous and can take the solution up, you should be fine using it.
Nice. In what frequency (years) do you have to apply it for a new layer? Is it possible without pignent for a transparany look or will it going to be grey? .
You could apply just the linseed oil and turpentine, without pigment if you want the natural wood color. I'd say a treatment would last about 10 years, but doing it every 5 would be better. And doing multiple coats would last longer and be a better protection.
What about adding pine tar?
Looks to me as though you had previously mixed pigment into that old turpentine then forgotten about it.
The natural (Australian) gum turpentine I use is clear as water.
Mineral turpentine is cheaper and much easier to find, but this is a petrochemical compound. Gum turpentine smells fabulous.
I mix gum turpentine with boiled linseed oil, which as far as I know, is simply boiled, not mixed with anything.
I use this to treat indoor wooden furniture etc, and wooden tool handles. It does a great job and gives a gleam as the boiled oil polymerises and solidifies.
I find that raw linseed oil remains sticky.
But the wood that is exposed to weather does need recoating I find, about yearly, to retain the benefits.
People should not eat linseed or its oil raw. It must be boiled before it is safe for consumption.
I looked it up after doing that part of the video and the old turpentine oxidizes and turns brown. So it was just an open can that had oxidized. Yes, I wanted to real turpentine without the fossil fuel additives.
Boiled linseed oil is linseed oil that's been superheated for a long time and becomes "stand oil", but it also has petroleum solvents and driers added as well. That's why I'd rather not use it.
I wouldn't recommend eating the raw linseed oil in the cans like I'm using for this project because it isn't food safe. But a lot of companies sell linseed oil mixtures for wood treatment that are specifically said to be safe for cutting boards or other food applications.
I did find a reference to the need to heat flax seed before eating to destroy the slight toxins in them on the Mayoclinic and NIH sites. I didn't know this. Do you think the food grade flaxseed oil sold in stores is made from heat treated seeds so it doesn't have the toxins in it?
@@HardcoreSustainable
I know from feeding linseed to horses, that it must be soaked and simmered for a long time to make it edible, but mum's canaries can eat the seed with no ill effects! Presumably food producers are aware of whatever needs to be done to make it safe to eat.
I studied some more about linseed oils. Boiled linseed oil is not boiled, but has heated air blown through it, and some metal catalysts added to speed drying time, so it dries in about 2 or 3 days, whereas raw linseed oil can take weeks or months. That's why I prefer boiled oil for tool handles!
For food preparation wooden objects, I use macadamia oil which does not turn rancid.
Boiled linseed oil used to contain compounds of lead, but thankfully, now it doesn't!
Rags and paper towels used to apply or clean up linseed oil can heat up and spontaneously combust, so should never be thrown in the trash while wet. Spread them out on concrete or metal for a few days to dry, then throw away. Or seal in an airtight can.
@@rubygray7749 Yep, there was a fire that started here a long time ago from a pile of rags soaked in linseed oil. Knowing that, I always hang mine up and keep them separate from each other so they won't catch fire.
Great video! Do you happen to know how long this lasts before it needs to be reapplied? I have a lot of cedar siding I need to protect and an economical home brew sounds pretty good!
I did a test area on the back of this house several years ago now and it still looks good. Another house where I live had this done probably 10 years ago and it was just redone. So it lasts a while and just getting it refreshed every 10 years would probably be fine.
@@HardcoreSustainable awesome, I like the idea of it weathering away where it can just be easily gone back over....instead of peeling and flaking and having to be scraped off.
This is a very very ancient practice that was once common throughout Europe. Old Stave Churches and other historic buildings are still standing because they've been treated with pine tar, turpentine, and linseed oil. The pine products have a natural anti-microbial function in them that prevents rot. There are companies out there still selling paints made of these components, in a wide range of colors. You'll likely have to refresh the coating every ten years depending on your climate.
Would this make a good protective stain/seal on a deck built with treated lumber?
I would think so. It could add a bit more protection and obviously finish.
Hey there! Have you ever tried Swedish Flour paint? Would love to see you have a go.
Also, is Citrus Solvent better than turpentine? Ecologically speaking and will it work as well?
I don't know if it is ecologically better than turpentine, except maybe because it is possibly derived from a waste product instead of being extracted for exclusive use as turpentine is. It is certainly far more expensive. The cost of citrus solvent has skyrocketed for some reason. Citrus solvent would work just as well.
I haven't ever tried Swedish flour paint though I have done other videos on clay alis. I'll have to try it sometime. Thanks!
@@HardcoreSustainable thank you very much for the insight and I look forward to that video.
Can you put the mixture in a sprayer to apply?
I would guess not because the pigment powder might clog it, but you could try.
Wish I knew this before I discovered "Eco wood treatment" powder, it's spendy!
What temperature for applications
Probably fine over 50 degrees F.
Is there a long lasting or obnoxious odor? Would like to apply this ir something natural to my outdoor orch area wood. What ya think?
I don't think the smell lasts more than a few weeks to a month in warm weather. You can also mix the linseed oil with citrus solvent instead of turpentine if you want a better smell.
@@HardcoreSustainable sounds good, and it looks so great at least on video. Thanks 😊
Was wondering why use lindseed rather than hemp oil? Hemp oil is stronger and last longer from the talking heads on YT?
Because I can buy it at my local hardware store and it's perfectly sustainable to use. I could also use hemp oil, but I'd have to special order it through the internet and it would be more than twice the price, $30/gal (off the shelf) vs $82/gal (before shipping).
Looking up info, the Milk Paint Co. says that hemp oil doesn't hold up as long as tung oil does. I would have liked to use tung oil, but it's more expensive and requires special ordering. The MPC says on their website, "It’s therefore recommended that you use tung oil for projects that require more staying power (your backyard shed, for instance) and save hemp oil for lightly used items that wouldn’t be exposed to wind, rain or repeated trips through the dishwasher." So probably hemp oil is comparable to linseed oil for this application.
The advantage of the hemp oil would be that it doesn't require a solvent like turpentine to apply it. It's not as viscous. I had bought the turpentine many years ago and so needed to use it anyways. But probably doing without the solvent would be a positive. Then of course you'd need to buy more of the hemp oil to go as far as the half and half mixture I used. Tung oil would need the solvent.
@@HardcoreSustainable I see! TY, I was seriously wondering how these products compared and the rational behind them before I use them myself.
I ESPECIALLY like not having to remove old paint!!!
The government and pharmaceutical industry says that paint fumes are completely safe, and they are going to pass a law saying we can't question them anymore because they are experts. I agree with the experts because they have never ever ever made a mistake, so we have no right to think for ourselves anymore
The government actually does NOT say that paint fumes are safe. Haven't you ever seen the warning labels on paint cans? But a lot of these warnings are specifically required on labeling by California. Because CA is about 13% of the US economy industry is forced to label everything according to CA regulations.
I'm not sure what the pharmaceutical industry would have to do with paint fumes. I think they are corrupt in many ways but don't think they weigh in on paint fumes.
But the EPA has been gutted over the years by Republicans for trying to regulate industry to keep us all safer and our water and air cleaner. Under Trump the EPA was basically controlled directly by corporate interests and the goal was to dismantle it because the corporations don't want us to be safe. They just want to make $$$.
There's a guy Noah Bradley that uses mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil and paraffin wax to water proof wood, log homes etc.
That probably works. I was going for a fossil fuel free option. Raw linseed oil doesn't take the energy inputs boiled does. And mineral spirits are made from fossil fuel. While turpentine is from pine resin. Paraffin is also from fossil fuel. It's my preference to do it without as much fossil fuel, though likely fossil fuel is burned to manufacture all the ingredients in my "natural" recipe. Fossil fuel is burned to manufacture all the fossil fuel based ingredients you mention too.
Could you spray this on?
possibly. I'm not sure how earth pigment works in sprayers--if it would clog the sprayer. That would be an issue. Also, not sure if sprayers have an agitator that constantly stirs the paint. It has to be stirred to keep the pigment from settling.
Could I use a pump sprayer to put the mixture on
I'm not entirely sure. It's possible the pigment would plug it up. I've never tried.
13 miles. 😂 That's my neighbor where I'm from
So how far away is your nearest hardware store?
Something is odd about that turpentine. It should look like water. Did you use it to clean some brushes at one point or something?
It was old and oxidized. It turns dark, but is still usable.
What pigment did you use for the yellow and can you use this on Adobe ?
Did I use yellow in this video? I usually use yellow ochre, but there are so many shades of yellow.
@@HardcoreSustainable you didnt use it but you showed us yellow green the reddish color you used and another i forgot what the other color was
@@meliplay I would think you could use it on adobe. linseed oil is a good treatment for earthen plasters to help them resist weather. This would be similar and the pigment adds color.
@@HardcoreSustainable thank you. I'm planning to build a couple structures in my property one of wood and one of Adobe so this is awesome 👍
I've used ground turmeric from the grocery spice isle. A little goes a looong way
Can i use boiled linseed oil?
You could use boiled linseed oil. It has the solvents already added so you wouldn't need to add turpentine.
petrochemical paints came in the 1920's along with sand and cement as its quicker cheaper labour cheaper in cost and cheaper to produce also to make it more affordable for the working class and middle classes. But natural paint were never non toxic as linseed paints contained lead for anti fungicide and extra flexibility not sure about original lime wash and other natural paints but linseed paints now use zinc and titanium dixoide which isn't no way near as effective as lead as a anti fungicide now its to prone to mould and algae growth the companies that make will tell you it is but I've used and seen with my eyes on several jobs and its not. Ive had it suffer with terrible algae growth after a year on quite few jobs. The best system now is owatrol oil combined with owatrol deco for paint but very expensive in product and labour
Wood finishes and related petrochemical treatments and uses go back over 2000 years, not the 1920s. Polurtheans started in Germany in the 1930s and Latexs (aka “plastic paints”) just after in the 1940s. “Concrete” too has been around for over 4000 years and almost all formulas have a sand/gravel aggregate added to the mix. Modern industrialized and massively polluting OPC cementitious materials are modern, cheap, have a huge carbon footprint, and are degrading rapidly.
You are wrong about “natural paints” not being toxic at all, most in history have been harmless as are the better ones today. “Nontoxic” does not mean “food safe” or potable. Many natural oxides, and thinners (e.g. citrus, turps, copper sulfates, etc) which are all-natural should not be eaten, however their toxicity level to a biome is negligible at best. I’m not sure where that opinion came from. Lead was not, and still isn’t added to most traditional natural lipid-based finishes be they a paint or stain. Natural fungicides come in many forms besides lead, though lead paint was (and still is) made. It is also a natural paint and is only really toxic if consumed… most people don’t eat lead paint. Its main use was (and still is) in boat building finishes on wood just like it has been for several millennia…
Many natural mineral-based additives (et al) inhibit mold. Lead was one and you listed a few of them. Lead was not added to paint for just “mold.” I can’t speak to your experience, or whether you did the work properly. If you get mold in the finish afterward there could be many mitigating reasons from improper use to environmental, or age of finish when applied and the list goes on.
Traditional blends, like the one shared in this video, can last well over 350 years before complete degradation. As all wood finishes are considered a “sacrificial layer,” eventual failure is expected. The durability of natural finishes far exceeds that of modern industrialized finishes and this is based on my experience in blending natural finishes and working in historic restoration. Older ages are claimed by others in this field mainly from Europe, the Middle East (over 7000 years for paint there), and Asia…
We agree on the “speed and greed” part. I would not recommend, at all, the manufacture you shared. However, I will own my bias there as I only use natural and traditional finishes that I blend myself typically, or by those I trust...