I really enjoyed watching your video. You reminded me a lot of myself. I do a lot of construction, remodeling jobs. I have laid several sets of steps and have laid bricks around several mobile homes and some house additions. I have never did it consistently enough to get very fast at it because I do more carpentry than masonry but when I don't do it for a while I get to missing it.I work a full time job during the week that is boring and this type of work on Fridays and Saturdays to satisfy my creative desire if that makes sense and it probably does since you do this type of work also. Great job on the steps.
Thanks for watching! Sounds like we are much alike in that aspect. I only do a few brick projects a year. I am slow laying brick but I do enjoy making it look good. I have another video I am working on. It is a 2 tread step. Coming soon but it is not as detailed of a video as this one. Thanks again and have a great weekend!
Nice job on the brick work. Unfortunately for other DIYers out there, there is an issue with the stair design. Notice the first set of stairs is 2 courses of bricks tall and the 2nd stair is 3 courses? Many localities have codes that would prohibit this height difference. The reason is inconsistent riser heights have proven to be dangerous. Additionally, I do not suspect these stairs are comfortable to walk up. The most basic rule of thumb is the rise + run of a stair should equal 18. The most common stair is 7” tall, 11 inches deep, = 18. In this scenario, based on standard brick and mortar thickness, the rise is about 6 1/2” and the run is about 13” = 19.5. walking up these stairs will feel awkward, and will result in you taking a longer step than usual.
Thanks! Thanks for that specific info. Check out my others brick stairs video. Maybe those are better. You would not like my basement stairs! It’s like climbing a ladder. Takes some skill. Thanks for watching!
Does this code really apply to these short steps? Frequently the ground is not even level. For a few steps, having different rises and runs is not a problem and you won't notice the issues you mentioned. Inside a house on the other hand, for a very long flight it's very important for the reasons you mention.
Also its faster to do the step by building the corners first then lay with the line and fill in, but many cannot perform this work its a lot more to it than it seems like it is i still learn something new every now and then myself and I been laying for almost 25 years.
Good video !but would be better if you go into details on the items your using ! Like what type of concrete, tools that your using & etc..but overall good idea what to do for a beginners
Nice job , BUT that riser is too high for my liking , I would of advised the customer to install a 2 step personally, But I’m UK and we do it differently here
@@JustinBiddix only mention it buddy as said I’m uk and slightly different legislation over here , in uk it’s advised that a minimum riser of 150mm ( 2 brick high) and a maximum riser of 220mm 3 brick high so it’s actually within our spec over here too but personally walking up and down 22mm every day is awkward , where as a nice 150mm riser feels more comfortable, it’s ok to build a 220mm riser but I advise customer to opt for the 150mm due to fact that thinking when they age in life will be difficult to climb 220mm Awesome work tho buddy steps are tricky and I always say ( people who don’t no about bricks and watchers of TH-cam think bricky is easy ) until they try themselves, but it’s fact that if you can build steps you can build anything as steps are actually different to laying a straight flank due to a lot more corners set ups and you have to use brain continuously on step work , great work tho , I build a variety of steps in uk ranging from a 2 step up to 10 step
Your rise is not legal on your steps young fella! At least in the state that I live in. Appears to be a definite trip hazard. You are off about 3" between the first rise and the landing. OH WELL!! aside from that I like how you took your time and strived for perfection.
Thanks! I really didn’t know what I was doing. But I have since corrected my methods and perfected the rise on other projects. Thanks to everyone pointing this out on TH-cam. The reason I did it like this in the first place is because that is how it existed in the first place on this home. I just put it back how it was. Didn’t know any better. I’m one of those guys who just has to figure it out. Pretty hard when you don’t have a mentor hanging over your shoulder with tons of skill and knowledge. Thanks for commenting and watching!
You can add water to a certain extent. I find that for the first hour or two adding water is fine. After that you will notice a loss of workability of the mud. It will probably loose a bit of strength at that point. My suggestion would be to mix a half bag at a time. Use that up in an hour or two then mix another half. And so on..I’m not sure how much experience you have laying brick, but I do have a few more videos laying brick. They aren’t really instructional videos, but you may pick up a tip or two from them. Good luck on your project!
Visually, i really prefer as little grout or spaces between tile or brick. Is there a downside to doing that? Does it *need* to be a certain thickness between the stones/bricks??
You can hold the joints as tight as you like on a project like this. It will make it more difficult to keep the project level and plumb. I’d suggest practicing just a little bit with some old material and see how it goes.
I’ve been laying brick for thirty years. This step would not pass code where I live. What is the measurement from the top of the step to the top of the stoop. You should have raised up the first step so it would have been a flat course and then a row lock to the top of the stoop.
I am not even thirty years old. I agree I should have done it a bit differently. But this was my first step. And I was figuring it out on my own. I just recently laid a step and I actually shaved some brick down to about 3/4 inch thick on the bottom course just to make the rise come out proper. It was a lot of hard cutting but it turned out nice
Thank you for watching. I mix approximately 1part type s masonry cement to 3 parts mortar sand. I think those bags were 70 or 80 pounds of cement. I split each bag in half and mix with about 10 normal size shovels of sand.
nice ! I am trying to do a DIY back steps (5 bricks long by your pattern) It is a set of 2 steps with a upper single layer to seal to the doorway. Do you have any recommendations? We are both beginner DIY but have a contractor friend who can help us out
Thanks! Good luck in your project. I recommend watching other brick step video th-cam.com/video/6udNHCKvXyc/w-d-xo.html here is a link. Or you can go on my channel and type in laying a brick porch step #2. That will give you an idea of how I build a multi step and keep it solid. If you have any questions after seeing that feel free to comment and I will try to help!
Thanks for asking. I won't give specifics out of respect to the customer. But roughly my total price on a single step job is $400-$700 dollars. A 2 step like in the video I charge around $1000 give or take depending on a lot of things. (I have met some masons who are considerably cheaper, but I can not afford to do it for much less. I have seen people cheap out on steps and they do not look really elegant) On this particular job I factored in the drainage repair so we cut concrete to run the drainage and had lots of digging. Also broke up and hauled away old steps. Also installed 2 hand rails. So this job was considerably more pricey. Important things to consider are matching the brick and where to get the brick. I have 2 main brick yards near where I do my work(about an hour drive away). Each time it takes me about half a day just to go to the brick yard and determine which brick to get and purchase it and load it and drive back home. Also have to go to a different location to purchase mortar and sand. Time is money... It is easiest to purchase brick by the "band or section" I think each band is about 100 brick. A full cube should be about 5 bands or 500 brick. Roughly expect to spend 25 cent on a single brick. Cubes are normally about $150. A bag or mortar is approximately $12 and sand is $45 per cubic foot at some places. If you buy it direct from like a concrete company that makes there own and sells it it will be about half that price. This job took about 3-4 bags of mortar. I think I used about 300 brick on this.. I can't remember exactly. It is hard to tell how much sand I used but probably .25 of a cubic yard. I hope this helps you. If you already knew a lot of this I apologize and I am not trying to insult your intelligence. Maybe it will help others too if they read.
@@JustinBiddix thank you so much, i got a maybe 5-6 step bricks that are kind of loose, on the edge of my steps, all lined up across but loose, what's a fair price to just re-mortar that?
For repairing loose brick and re mortaring I grind out the old mortar in the areas affected and pack new mortar in. I charge about $115 an hour plus materials.
I am sure other masons could come in cheaper. But I stay so busy that I can not. I would not recommend doing any patch work for under $60 an hour. It is tedious. And messy with all of the dust from grinding. But I am around $115/ hr
Sorry it took me so long to reply.. I just saw this reply. The stuff that you just add water to sets fast. For me personally I find I have about 30 mins before it starts to get aggravating. But the stuff that you add sand too you probably have twice the time before it starts getting hard.
What two things did you put in the wheel barrow at 3:25? One powder is Grey and the other is orange. I realize that it is motar mix of some kind, but what kind of mortar mix? Also, what is the correct ratio of orange stuff to grey stuff?
It is type s masonry cement (grey) and yellow mortar sand (orange) the correct ratio is 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. You can buy it pre mixed in a bag. But I mix my own because it is more workable. The pre mix sets up too quickly for my personal liking.
I have a deck that has some age connecting to the back door of my home. Was thinking of tearing it down and doing a cement slab patio and building an elevated set of brick steps from the door down to the ground. Guessing it’s about 5/6 feet from the door down to the ground. How thick of a pad would I need to pour for the patio and if I wanted to make 4-6 ft wide steps coming down.. is there any codes for exactly how wide they need to be? How would I calculate material cost for bricks and mortar? Thanks for any advice, I’m an avid DIYer but have zero experience brick laying. I’m assuming that the porch would need to be tore down but time is really an issue here as I have 3 dogs that use the large fenced in area in the back.. would be easier/time efficient to get footers dug and cement poured to support the steps and just add the patio pad later? How deep would I need to pour the footers to support this weight of the brick steps? I’m assuming to make it to the back door i would need at least 6 or 7 steps built up to reach it. I would need to know how to calculate that as well! Have a lot to learn lol. But I think it’s more fulfilling to take care of things and learn as we go from stuff like this! Just need the support of good people like you along the way!!
Hey! Thanks for commenting. I may not be much help. I’m not a professional but I’ll input my opinion. You could go either route as far as pour slab first or pour footer first. Which ever you prefer and works best for you. I’d check the local codes for the steps. I’m sure there are certain restrictions. But for that big of a set of steps I’d do at least 15 inches thick below the frost line or undisturbed soil. Also for that many steps it’s probably best to lay block first then brick veneer around the block. Otherwise there will be lots of wasted brick and it will take longer because a brick is a much smaller unit to lay vs a block. As for estimating.. I would just measure the best you can with dimensions of the block. And I would probably just get a whole cube of brick. It may be less. But a whole cube is much easier to transport than individual brick. Generally at a brick yard you can get a whole cube which is about 500 brick or you can get a “section” or “band” which is 100 brick. (These can be pretty tricky to transport) a cube is easier. Also if you have never laid brick or block I would highly recommend TH-cam for starter videos. And practice before actually doing it. It’s pretty tricky until you get some practice down. Also a paddle type mixer would be very nice for this size project. Otherwise you will spend a lot of extra calories mixing mud in a wheel barrow. I personally do not recommend pre mixed mortar. I mix my own masonry cement and mortar sand. The ratio is 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. If you mix your own, it will give you much more workability. And you will need workability being a beginner mason. The pre mix stuff sets up very fast. Hopefully some of this is useful information.
This came from Statesville Brick Co in statesville, NC. To get this exact brick you’d have to go there. You can probably match something close though. This is a modular size brick and statesville brick co calls it “mission rose”
Thank you for your interest. I charged this home owner $620. I had roughly 8 or 9 total hours in the project. Counting driving to the local brick plant for the brick and gathering other needed materials as well. I am sure there are much faster masons out there but I do not lay brick every day, therefore, I need to take my time to ensure quality work.
@@JustinBiddix youre good…youll only get better with experience…I started mixing mud for my dad at 13 and Im 62 now and learn something new all the time 😃We need young masons coming up like you👍….and Justin, many of my customers are old now with health issues to where even a 7” step up is painful for them to navigate…For those people Ive even done 6” risers to help them navigate…Its extra cutting of course but means the world to them👍
But I'll tell you a very simple way to so the top float the entire top with mud first and you don't have to level one brick and then grout the joint with a grout bag
@@JustinBiddix Do you work the Fort Mill Area? I need steps exactly like those in this video for my rear patio. Planning to have the work done in the next week. (by 8/21/2021) if possible.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Beaut work. Constant measuring/ leveling/ spot on
I really enjoyed watching your video. You reminded me a lot of myself. I do a lot of construction, remodeling jobs. I have laid several sets of steps and have laid bricks around several mobile homes and some house additions. I have never did it consistently enough to get very fast at it because I do more carpentry than masonry but when I don't do it for a while I get to missing it.I work a full time job during the week that is boring and this type of work on Fridays and Saturdays to satisfy my creative desire if that makes sense and it probably does since you do this type of work also. Great job on the steps.
Thanks for watching! Sounds like we are much alike in that aspect. I only do a few brick projects a year. I am slow laying brick but I do enjoy making it look good. I have another video I am working on. It is a 2 tread step. Coming soon but it is not as detailed of a video as this one. Thanks again and have a great weekend!
Thanks for the video and for the useful comments left by other people
Thanks for watching and commenting
Great job Justin 👍👍👍
Thank you !
the job came out beautiful a nice looking set of steps
thank you!
Man, you are a total pro! That looks fabulous. I loved watching the process. Thank you for making this video!
Thanks! I’m really not a pro but I try to make things look good and do the best I can! I’m glad you enjoyed
Impressive brickwork. Clean, well spaced joints, accurate. With respect, try to get your risers the same height. You have skills!
Thanks! I appreciate that
Top of the class to YOU younge MAN. EXCELLENT WORK.
Thank you kindly!
This is precision masonry dude
R. Greene style
Nice job on the brick work. Unfortunately for other DIYers out there, there is an issue with the stair design. Notice the first set of stairs is 2 courses of bricks tall and the 2nd stair is 3 courses? Many localities have codes that would prohibit this height difference. The reason is inconsistent riser heights have proven to be dangerous. Additionally, I do not suspect these stairs are comfortable to walk up. The most basic rule of thumb is the rise + run of a stair should equal 18. The most common stair is 7” tall, 11 inches deep, = 18. In this scenario, based on standard brick and mortar thickness, the rise is about 6 1/2” and the run is about 13” = 19.5. walking up these stairs will feel awkward, and will result in you taking a longer step than usual.
Thanks! Thanks for that specific info. Check out my others brick stairs video. Maybe those are better. You would not like my basement stairs! It’s like climbing a ladder. Takes some skill. Thanks for watching!
Yeah the code is 7 in ga you can get away with 8 though. Been playing brick for almost 25 years this is good work.
Should have went 3 stretcher courses then the roll lock..
Does this code really apply to these short steps? Frequently the ground is not even level. For a few steps, having different rises and runs is not a problem and you won't notice the issues you mentioned. Inside a house on the other hand, for a very long flight it's very important for the reasons you mention.
I did notice that. Trip hazard
Nice job not many young people like us getting into masonry we'll pro be the last ones haha
Also its faster to do the step by building the corners first then lay with the line and fill in, but many cannot perform this work its a lot more to it than it seems like it is i still learn something new every now and then myself and I been laying for almost 25 years.
Beautiful job
Thank you!
Good video !but would be better if you go into details on the items your using ! Like what type of concrete, tools that your using & etc..but overall good idea what to do for a beginners
Good job 👏
Thanks!
I don't know but maybe would have built both ends then pulled a line and checked as I went along.
exactly what i was thinking
Everybody does it differently
Very nice work. That is exactly the step that I need right now.
Thank you!
Excellent? Keep up the good work 👍👍👍
Thanks!
Great Job. Learned a lot. Thanks
Thank you! I am glad you learned something from the video. I have another similar video coming out soon. It is a two tread step instead of one.
Pretty cool
Thanks!
You did a beautiful job.
thank you!
A+. thank you for the helpful video. It was nice to see the level slope you used. Im about to add a second layer and want to make a perfect slope.
Thank you! I am glad the video was helpful. Good luck on your project
Nice Job 👍
Thank you!
nice work....
Thank you
Great Video thanks for posting it!
Thanks!
That ruler man, Freaking life saver. Keep up the great work man!
Thanks!
Just curious about how much something like that would cost
I like to wet my base and bricks a bit. Im told it helps with adhesion
I realize it is kind of off topic but do anyone know of a good place to stream newly released movies online?
@Giovanni Huxley i watch on Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
@Boston Marley Yea, I've been watching on flixzone for since march myself =)
@Boston Marley Thank you, I went there and it seems to work :) I appreciate it !
@Boston Marley thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I really appreciate it !
Dig it bud good job 👏 👍
Thanks!
Nice job
Thanks!
Nice job! Only thing you should have put a slight pitch on it, not 100% level, for rain run off.
Thanks for the tip!
What cement concrete type was used?
Good video my man!
Thanks!
Great work, congrats on the 55k views 💪🍻
Thanks man. I appreciate the hound out of it!
Bro you're such a professional but damn are you sure? because it's hell of a rise right there
I never claimed to be a professional. At least I don’t think I did.
Nice job , BUT that riser is too high for my liking , I would of advised the customer to install a 2 step personally, But I’m UK and we do it differently here
I agree. I should have done it differently. I had to opportunity to do another job like this and I did it the more proper way.
@@JustinBiddix only mention it buddy as said I’m uk and slightly different legislation over here , in uk it’s advised that a minimum riser of 150mm ( 2 brick high) and a maximum riser of 220mm 3 brick high so it’s actually within our spec over here too but personally walking up and down 22mm every day is awkward , where as a nice 150mm riser feels more comfortable, it’s ok to build a 220mm riser but I advise customer to opt for the 150mm due to fact that thinking when they age in life will be difficult to climb 220mm
Awesome work tho buddy steps are tricky and I always say ( people who don’t no about bricks and watchers of TH-cam think bricky is easy ) until they try themselves, but it’s fact that if you can build steps you can build anything as steps are actually different to laying a straight flank due to a lot more corners set ups and you have to use brain continuously on step work , great work tho , I build a variety of steps in uk ranging from a 2 step up to 10 step
Your rise is not legal on your steps young fella! At least in the state that I live in. Appears to be a definite trip hazard. You are off about 3" between the first rise and the landing. OH WELL!! aside from that I like how you took your time and strived for perfection.
Thanks! I really didn’t know what I was doing. But I have since corrected my methods and perfected the rise on other projects. Thanks to everyone pointing this out on TH-cam. The reason I did it like this in the first place is because that is how it existed in the first place on this home. I just put it back how it was. Didn’t know any better. I’m one of those guys who just has to figure it out. Pretty hard when you don’t have a mentor hanging over your shoulder with tons of skill and knowledge. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Nice layout. But the motar color different.
Thanks! When it cured for a few weeks it was the same color.
Can you add water to the mud to keep it loose as the day goes on or will it weaken the strength of it? Im gonna do the step on my back patio.
You can add water to a certain extent. I find that for the first hour or two adding water is fine. After that you will notice a loss of workability of the mud. It will probably loose a bit of strength at that point. My suggestion would be to mix a half bag at a time. Use that up in an hour or two then mix another half. And so on..I’m not sure how much experience you have laying brick, but I do have a few more videos laying brick. They aren’t really instructional videos, but you may pick up a tip or two from them. Good luck on your project!
Visually, i really prefer as little grout or spaces between tile or brick. Is there a downside to doing that? Does it *need* to be a certain thickness between the stones/bricks??
You can hold the joints as tight as you like on a project like this. It will make it more difficult to keep the project level and plumb. I’d suggest practicing just a little bit with some old material and see how it goes.
3/8
Fascinating ! What can i expect to pay for this step ? I live in " Little Mexico "
For a good quality you can probably expect 400-800 dollars for a single step like this.
@@JustinBiddix Thanks so much !
Nice but what about the colour mismatch with previous bricks.
Same brick from the same brick plant. No mismatch after everything cured and aged a few months
I’ve been laying brick for thirty years. This step would not pass code where I live. What is the measurement from the top of the step to the top of the stoop. You should have raised up the first step so it would have been a flat course and then a row lock to the top of the stoop.
I am not even thirty years old. I agree I should have done it a bit differently. But this was my first step. And I was figuring it out on my own. I just recently laid a step and I actually shaved some brick down to about 3/4 inch thick on the bottom course just to make the rise come out proper. It was a lot of hard cutting but it turned out nice
A piece of tar paper on that slab would have been crucial for keeping the job clean.
I use rubber roofing membrane u can reuse it like a hundred times
Thanks for the tip!
Justin Can I lay brick down on an existing concrete steps? Front steps into my house.. 3 total steps
Yes that will be fine. I would suggest to dry bond your brick out to make sure joint spacing will line up with everything properly
Do you angle stairs nose to allow for run off? I will be trying to repair mine and want to make sure I do if I am supposed to.
Yes just very slightly
I like to have the edge of the bubble touching the line on my torpedo level to set the run off pitch
Thanks for the video. What did you mix together for the mix?
Thank you for watching. I mix approximately 1part type s masonry cement to 3 parts mortar sand. I think those bags were 70 or 80 pounds of cement. I split each bag in half and mix with about 10 normal size shovels of sand.
nice ! I am trying to do a DIY back steps (5 bricks long by your pattern) It is a set of 2 steps with a upper single layer to seal to the doorway. Do you have any recommendations? We are both beginner DIY but have a contractor friend who can help us out
Thanks! Good luck in your project. I recommend watching other brick step video th-cam.com/video/6udNHCKvXyc/w-d-xo.html here is a link. Or you can go on my channel and type in laying a brick porch step #2. That will give you an idea of how I build a multi step and keep it solid. If you have any questions after seeing that feel free to comment and I will try to help!
how much would a job like this cost? how much did you charge for this specific job? what was labor and what were parts roughly? thank you
Thanks for asking. I won't give specifics out of respect to the customer. But roughly my total price on a single step job is $400-$700 dollars. A 2 step like in the video I charge around $1000 give or take depending on a lot of things. (I have met some masons who are considerably cheaper, but I can not afford to do it for much less. I have seen people cheap out on steps and they do not look really elegant) On this particular job I factored in the drainage repair so we cut concrete to run the drainage and had lots of digging. Also broke up and hauled away old steps. Also installed 2 hand rails. So this job was considerably more pricey. Important things to consider are matching the brick and where to get the brick. I have 2 main brick yards near where I do my work(about an hour drive away). Each time it takes me about half a day just to go to the brick yard and determine which brick to get and purchase it and load it and drive back home. Also have to go to a different location to purchase mortar and sand. Time is money... It is easiest to purchase brick by the "band or section" I think each band is about 100 brick. A full cube should be about 5 bands or 500 brick. Roughly expect to spend 25 cent on a single brick. Cubes are normally about $150. A bag or mortar is approximately $12 and sand is $45 per cubic foot at some places. If you buy it direct from like a concrete company that makes there own and sells it it will be about half that price. This job took about 3-4 bags of mortar. I think I used about 300 brick on this.. I can't remember exactly. It is hard to tell how much sand I used but probably .25 of a cubic yard. I hope this helps you. If you already knew a lot of this I apologize and I am not trying to insult your intelligence. Maybe it will help others too if they read.
@@JustinBiddix thank you so much, i got a maybe 5-6 step bricks that are kind of loose, on the edge of my steps, all lined up across but loose, what's a fair price to just re-mortar that?
For repairing loose brick and re mortaring I grind out the old mortar in the areas affected and pack new mortar in. I charge about $115 an hour plus materials.
I am sure other masons could come in cheaper. But I stay so busy that I can not. I would not recommend doing any patch work for under $60 an hour. It is tedious. And messy with all of the dust from grinding. But I am around $115/ hr
@@JustinBiddix ty
Nice work. Is there a name for that particular brick color/pattern and can you share the source?
Thanks! Yes it’s called “mission rose” and it is a modular size from Statesville Brick Co in Statesville, NC
Sun If you ever lay brick and you going more than 4 ft please putting lineup and by the way the work looks good
Was is the typical "working time" of the mixed mortar?
By “mixed mortar” do you mean the kind that is pre mixed in the bag that you just add water to?
@@JustinBiddix Yes.
Sorry it took me so long to reply.. I just saw this reply. The stuff that you just add water to sets fast. For me personally I find I have about 30 mins before it starts to get aggravating. But the stuff that you add sand too you probably have twice the time before it starts getting hard.
What two things did you put in the wheel barrow at 3:25? One powder is Grey and the other is orange. I realize that it is motar mix of some kind, but what kind of mortar mix? Also, what is the correct ratio of orange stuff to grey stuff?
It is type s masonry cement (grey) and yellow mortar sand (orange) the correct ratio is 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. You can buy it pre mixed in a bag. But I mix my own because it is more workable. The pre mix sets up too quickly for my personal liking.
Do you need to do anything special to get the first layer to adhere to the cement?
I have personally never used anything for that. I’ve had no problems.
I have a deck that has some age connecting to the back door of my home. Was thinking of tearing it down and doing a cement slab patio and building an elevated set of brick steps from the door down to the ground. Guessing it’s about 5/6 feet from the door down to the ground. How thick of a pad would I need to pour for the patio and if I wanted to make 4-6 ft wide steps coming down.. is there any codes for exactly how wide they need to be? How would I calculate material cost for bricks and mortar? Thanks for any advice, I’m an avid DIYer but have zero experience brick laying. I’m assuming that the porch would need to be tore down but time is really an issue here as I have 3 dogs that use the large fenced in area in the back.. would be easier/time efficient to get footers dug and cement poured to support the steps and just add the patio pad later? How deep would I need to pour the footers to support this weight of the brick steps? I’m assuming to make it to the back door i would need at least 6 or 7 steps built up to reach it. I would need to know how to calculate that as well! Have a lot to learn lol. But I think it’s more fulfilling to take care of things and learn as we go from stuff like this! Just need the support of good people like you along the way!!
If anyone needs any additional info to help me
Out here as far as the footer question goes I live in eastern NC.
Hey! Thanks for commenting. I may not be much help. I’m not a professional but I’ll input my opinion. You could go either route as far as pour slab first or pour footer first. Which ever you prefer and works best for you. I’d check the local codes for the steps. I’m sure there are certain restrictions. But for that big of a set of steps I’d do at least 15 inches thick below the frost line or undisturbed soil. Also for that many steps it’s probably best to lay block first then brick veneer around the block. Otherwise there will be lots of wasted brick and it will take longer because a brick is a much smaller unit to lay vs a block. As for estimating.. I would just measure the best you can with dimensions of the block. And I would probably just get a whole cube of brick. It may be less. But a whole cube is much easier to transport than individual brick. Generally at a brick yard you can get a whole cube which is about 500 brick or you can get a “section” or “band” which is 100 brick. (These can be pretty tricky to transport) a cube is easier. Also if you have never laid brick or block I would highly recommend TH-cam for starter videos. And practice before actually doing it. It’s pretty tricky until you get some practice down. Also a paddle type mixer would be very nice for this size project. Otherwise you will spend a lot of extra calories mixing mud in a wheel barrow. I personally do not recommend pre mixed mortar. I mix my own masonry cement and mortar sand. The ratio is 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. If you mix your own, it will give you much more workability. And you will need workability being a beginner mason. The pre mix stuff sets up very fast. Hopefully some of this is useful information.
Brick and mortar are way off u can tell not even close. Hope u told homeowner u couldnt match before u done that. But good job laying
It matches fine. When it cures it gets lighter.
Where can i get that brick??
This came from Statesville Brick Co in statesville, NC. To get this exact brick you’d have to go there. You can probably match something close though. This is a modular size brick and statesville brick co calls it “mission rose”
WIsh it mortar matched.
The mortar matches. It was wet in the video
How much does this cost to the homeowner? If you care to let us know. Apologies if that is too personal
Thank you for your interest. I charged this home owner $620. I had roughly 8 or 9 total hours in the project. Counting driving to the local brick plant for the brick and gathering other needed materials as well. I am sure there are much faster masons out there but I do not lay brick every day, therefore, I need to take my time to ensure quality work.
you didn't tell us how to mix the cement. I dont know what bags of cement to use or how much sand to use thanks for the show but I learned nothing
I’ll be dogged
Right!
Maybe it should of been two steps
Maybe
Didn't have to clean the brick
Way too high a step up onto the porch…Needed 2 risers
Thanks for the comment! Lots of people said the same thing here. I have to agree. If I could do this one over I’d do different. But live and learn!
@@JustinBiddix youre good…youll only get better with experience…I started mixing mud for my dad at 13 and Im 62 now and learn something new all the time 😃We need young masons coming up like you👍….and Justin, many of my customers are old now with health issues to where even a 7” step up is painful for them to navigate…For those people Ive even done 6” risers to help them navigate…Its extra cutting of course but means the world to them👍
so much sement. it is 3 to 1.. too much segment and it will crack over time
I mixed it 3 to 1
Dang man, is there something you don't know how to do? lol
Ever worked with stone?
yes I have worked with stone
But I'll tell you a very simple way to so the top float the entire top with mud first and you don't have to level one brick and then grout the joint with a grout bag
Thank you for this tip! I will try that.
Justin where r u located
Catawba, NC
Im in destin Florida i can shoot some pics of my work
@@JustinBiddix Do you work the Fort Mill Area? I need steps exactly like those in this video for my rear patio. Planning to have the work done in the next week. (by 8/21/2021) if possible.
I need my steps done for 😒