It is all too common in my area to see boilers piped in like this. It did, however, manage to work (more or less) for some 30+ years. We hope to nurse it thru one last season, as this boiler is now a "zombie" boiler (there is rust-out hole in the cast iron heat exchanger)
Thanks for pointing out drafting characteristics and possibility of plugged chimney. Too often overlooked! I often use the hand method, but always back it up with a match test (extinguish match and watch smoke get pulled up).
It depends on several factors. Are your mains insulated well? Do you have adequate main steam vents? Is your heating more or less even throughout? Is your system oversized? Are you doing it to save $ or for comfort at night? In general, steam systems were more or less designed to have steam in them for long periods (ie coal fired). Most of the time, deep set-backs bring forth problems like water hammer, hissing vents, uneven heating, etc.
Gordon, I have an ECT-04 boiler that is only used in the heating months. The water quality in my area is pretty good with the PH reading between a 6 & 7 would you recommend raising the PH into the 8 or 9 range & flooding the boiler over the summer months to help prolong the life of the cast iron sections? The system now runs flawlessly during the heating months with the pressuretrol set to cut out at 1.5psi & cut in at .5psi internally I have periodically inspected and cleaned the boiler And flush the MM low water cutoff weekly. the boiler internal condition is in what I would say is average internal condition with rust scaling and sediment which I attribute to the previous installer and owner who rarely maintained the unit, The boiler started life off on the wrong foot being the absolutely worst install that I have ever seen, the installers made every serious mistake from one end to the other. From day one the boiler would pump water out of all the radiators and the so called reputable company that did the install kept turning up the pressuetrol creating more problems truly they were clueless. the past owners actually gave up trying to heat their house with it and turned to wood stoves. The Boiler was installed in 2007. I reinstalled it in 2021 re configuring all the piping and venting. Thanks, I appreciate any advice
In general, I avoid adding chemicals to treat steam boiler water, but that is me in my area's water and may not be the best for you with your slightly acidic water. Proceed with care. Flooding the boiler in the summer months does indeed keep out most of the oxygen (and tests for a failing boiler, too). Very few do this, but you seem to be very diligent and "hands on", so yes, by all means do this. Best of luck & happy steaming!
I believe that, this being a rental house, not only are smoke detectors required (and are in most dwellings here), but CO detectors as well. I am not familiar with the term "open glued"?
@@dannywilkins887 Thanks for the reply & thank you for your kind words. This video is just another in a continuing series of vignettes from the world's largest "hands on" heating museum lol!
Thanks for showing me the basics for boiler maintenance and the terrible near boiler piping, enough to send shivers down my back. Copper pipe above the water line is just awful, but the bullhead T and the counter flow mains were not helping either. How would you re-pipe in the future? Would you change the pitch for the mains to make them parallel flow?
This counterflow main is short. I'd keep it counterflow. In other videos, I've shown various ways to deal with counterflows. There is an "official" Lost Art Of Steam Heat way and that is sure to work in all cases. I seldom use it. Usually, I just install a tee on the header angled off at about 45 degrees to allow the returning condensate to "sneak" in under the steam flowing out, if that makes sense.
"Not piped correctly" is an understatement! It's gone now, and the boiler replaced. th-cam.com/video/fnQujBmmmS8/w-d-xo.html is the link to a video on that install. Enjoy!
good vid. helped alot
You are quite welcome. Glad it was helpful!
Nice to see a before video, what a mess!
It is all too common in my area to see boilers piped in like this.
It did, however, manage to work (more or less) for some 30+ years.
We hope to nurse it thru one last season, as this boiler is now a "zombie" boiler (there is rust-out hole in the cast iron heat exchanger)
Thanks for pointing out drafting characteristics and possibility of plugged chimney. Too often overlooked! I often use the hand method, but always back it up with a match test (extinguish match and watch smoke get pulled up).
Gordon- Thanks for coming out and helping with the zombie boiler! And for letting me be in the video!
What is the replacement for the 47-2?
Thank you for your question.
Here is a link to one idea for replacing the hopelessly obsolete 47-2
th-cam.com/video/JBZO_1vigNg/w-d-xo.html
My steam boiler timer should I set on and off times or leave it on 24/7?
It depends on several factors.
Are your mains insulated well?
Do you have adequate main steam vents?
Is your heating more or less even throughout?
Is your system oversized?
Are you doing it to save $ or for comfort at night?
In general, steam systems were more or less designed to have steam in them for long periods (ie coal fired).
Most of the time, deep set-backs bring forth problems like water hammer, hissing vents, uneven heating, etc.
Very nice video I like it man
Thank you very much!
Gordon, I have an ECT-04 boiler that is only used in the heating months. The water quality in my area is pretty good with the PH reading between a 6 & 7 would you recommend raising the PH into the 8 or 9 range & flooding the boiler over the summer months to help prolong the life of the cast iron sections? The system now runs flawlessly during the heating months with the pressuretrol set to cut out at 1.5psi & cut in at .5psi internally I have periodically inspected and cleaned the boiler And flush the MM low water cutoff weekly. the boiler internal condition is in what I would say is average internal condition with rust scaling and sediment which I attribute to the previous installer and owner who rarely maintained the unit, The boiler started life off on the wrong foot being the absolutely worst install that I have ever seen, the installers made every serious mistake from one end to the other. From day one the boiler would pump water out of all the radiators and the so called reputable company that did the install kept turning up the pressuetrol creating more problems truly they were clueless. the past owners actually gave up trying to heat their house with it and turned to wood stoves. The Boiler was installed in 2007. I reinstalled it in 2021 re configuring all the piping and venting. Thanks, I appreciate any advice
What sort of (if any) automatic water feeder do you use on your boiler?
The boiler feed is a manual ball valve.@@gordonschweizer5154
In general, I avoid adding chemicals to treat steam boiler water, but that is me in my area's water and may not be the best for you with your slightly acidic water.
Proceed with care.
Flooding the boiler in the summer months does indeed keep out most of the oxygen (and tests for a failing boiler, too).
Very few do this, but you seem to be very diligent and "hands on", so yes, by all means do this.
Best of luck & happy steaming!
Do people have carbon monoxide detectors with these ‘open glued’ boilers Gordon?
I believe that, this being a rental house, not only are smoke detectors required (and are in most dwellings here), but CO detectors as well.
I am not familiar with the term "open glued"?
Sorry Gordon,typo error should say open flued,a uk term for the draught hood, always enjoy the content
@@dannywilkins887 Thanks for the reply & thank you for your kind words.
This video is just another in a continuing series of vignettes from the world's largest "hands on" heating museum lol!
Thanks for showing me the basics for boiler maintenance and the terrible near boiler piping, enough to send shivers down my back. Copper pipe above the water line is just awful, but the bullhead T and the counter flow mains were not helping either.
How would you re-pipe in the future? Would you change the pitch for the mains to make them parallel flow?
This counterflow main is short. I'd keep it counterflow.
In other videos, I've shown various ways to deal with counterflows.
There is an "official" Lost Art Of Steam Heat way and that is sure to work in all cases. I seldom use it.
Usually, I just install a tee on the header angled off at about 45 degrees to allow the returning condensate to "sneak" in under the steam flowing out, if that makes sense.
@@gordonschweizer5154sneaky counterflow condensate is a good thing.
Not piped correctly plus copper on header is a no on a steam boiler
"Not piped correctly" is an understatement!
It's gone now, and the boiler replaced.
th-cam.com/video/fnQujBmmmS8/w-d-xo.html is the link to a video on that install.
Enjoy!