I have the 20 amp version of the one you reviewed and it lasted 6 weeks before catastrophic failure. The system was wired to two 12v panels in series and on a frosty morning the input capacitor connected to the panel exploded covering the circuit board with the paper used to insulate plates inside the capacitor. According to the data sheets for the solar panels they could never reach the 50 volts stated to be the maximum input voltage for the solar regulator. It also appears that the transistor controlling the 12v input is leaking current preventing it from now operating at 12v and one of the outputs from the micro controller is dead, this output feeds the driver for the switching transistors. Before that all happened I found that the regulator would directly lock the panel to the battery voltage on smaller panels of 80 watts when the sunlight slowly increased. It had to be switched off/on for it to start mppt operation. Compared to the Victron regulator that I have used for many years this cheap regulator is just waste of money.
It works well my... the bulb you connected in the end of video just drained current from battery - not from charger, therefore microcontroller didn't see it. This one works just differently, lowering voltage on input allows less heat dissipation inside the device which is important for higher wattage. It would be also great to see the type of MosFet used on PCB to determine the real maximum input voltage the charger can withstand. Thank you for your work...
Loved the video. In this case it's obvious that the controller don't work like it should. But I am very curious about other cheap MPPT controllers. How do they stack up against a more expensive MPPT controller? Maybe you could make a benchmark system with 2 controllers with the same size solar panel and sharing a single large battery. One of the controller would be a high quality controller that you trust to be as good as possible. That way you could always benchmark the cheap controllers against something. This might not be what you want do do. but i thought i would share the idea. Again loved this and many other videos.
@@chandruasp max panel wattage 240w for 12v panels, 480w for 24v; don't have the other specification but I'm quite sure it will be ok with my 12v 100w panel
At 2:30 in this case it seems they have just been selling a 20amp version als a 10 amp, maybe they just had no 10amps in stock then. That's what they do. (All the cheap pwm 10, 20, 30 amp for 6, 7 or 8 euros selling price are all the same 30amps inside as well (!) - smart of course - three different types in stock to pick from would be way more expensive.)
We have these under the brand "adventure king's" alot of people say they were pushing high volta and cooked the battery but some people say they worked fine.
I've just checked mine: I've the same mix-up: The CPS double coil withinness, but with the CPY case. Mine reads BIG V2.4 and it seems to works quite well. With the support of an USV battery I drag 105 Watt out of a 100 Watt panel, even when the battery almost died.
Adam, as usual great review! It would be interesting if you could contact the manufacturer and get some kind of explanation for the downgrade in working design... How's your Chinglish?
My EPEver/EPSolar Tracer A series MPPT controllers (one 4210A, two 3210A) continue to work without any problems (2 years continuous service for one of the 3210A's). Typical idle current on the 3210A is 15.7ma with the load Off, 33ma with the load On. It also goes into MPPT mode just above 5 watts of solar input and it tracks consistently, if not as fast as some of the more expensive MPPT controllers. A device that *reliably* meets your needs within your budget is a good buy ;-) banggood.com still says they're selling the A Series (in the Q&A section of that page). The lighting system in the shed out back has a 30 watt panel, 15AH of AGM batteries and a Landstar LS2024B controller. Didn't need the 20amp capability but did want to be able to monitor the solar performance with an eLog01. The 30 watt panel and 15AH battery are adequate for the limited use those lights get, even in the dreary days of January/February. Thanks for all the reviews. My take on a spreadsheet for figuring how much solar power and how big a battery bank is needed to run your list of devices: www.jecarter.us/files/My-Solar-Generator.xls
Great series of vids, thanks. But for only 10amp charging, only one batt, and say 100watt panel, a PWM should work fine. For a 30amp charging system MTTP would be a benefit to charge a bigger batt, or operate a daytime load.
I agree. MTTP works best if you have unlimited storage - or you are using the power while it is being generated. My battery bank is full by mid morning most days, and at that point the solar charge controller is limiting the power coming in to protect them. MPPT works very well in grid tied situations, because there is always somewhere to dump the power. Generally most people can get away with PWM and the extra money for an MPPT controller may be better spent on another solar panel - which will help more on less bright days. Unless of cause you have run out of space to mount them like me!
Hi I'm in OZ and I brought thee within the last 4 months . All are the same as what Adam has. Mine are charging vented lead acid batteries and all units are working fine.
Thanks for the video. I have two of these charging two separate boat batteries (780cca 12V, lead acid) and they have been working perfectly for the past 12 months. I am only concerned that it gets up to 14.6 volts when charging. Will this reduce the life of my batteries??? P.S I monitor each battery voltage constantly with Bluetooth device battery monitor). Thanks
Thinking further about the newer version of this controller, perhaps the solution is what some of the MakeSkyBlue controller users have done - if the input voltage stays low for an extended period, disconnect the panels and make it start again. Easily done with an Arduino or a PICAXE or even a mechanical timer - simply disconnect the solar panels for 30 seconds or a minute every 30 minutes to an hour. Not exactly how we expect to use these controllers but a relatively inexpensive way to get close to the expected performance - certainly cheaper than replacing it with a Midnite or a Tracer A series (my preference for small MPPT systems - the initial purchase possibly having been influenced by some Brit named Adam ;-)
May be the charge controller is design to work with 1 solor panel or more then 1 in parallel.which has 17ish volts as a maximum power point. Thats way the controller bring down the input voltage to 17 or 16 voltas to match the mpp of the panel.
i have a 200w 45v solar pnnel and need to get a mppt charger , whats cheapest one you could recomend for this pannel, your videos are very informitive and very scientific tests
Hi Simon. My favourite of the retail cheap MPPT charge controllers is the CPT-LA10 which I’ve done a couple of videos about. I’ve been using it on a small system for months and it’s remained reliable. Sadly the company who make it have changed the design of other charge controllers in their range so I can guarantee if you bought one it’d work as well as mine. Spending twice the money £50-60 would get you an EPEver 10amp MPPT Charger and you get quite a bit more for your money. I’ve been sent a MPT-7210A by someone who upgraded from it. Julian Ilett did a whole series of videos on it though, and I’m not sure what more I could mention after those. Cheers
I think the date is in the ISO 8601 format. YYYY-MM-DD. They usually use it because a list of dates can be sorted in lexicographic order, which corresponds to the chronological order.
Adam Welch I also would like to know why both cpy 2410 and 2420 are equiped with the same bad V2.3 board. There is absolutely no difference accept the printing on the case. I've asked this question to the company directly and they never replied.
Adam Welch after you were review on the cpy 2410 I went to eBay and bought the 24-20 I have not had no problems open the case up two conductors all indications it is a true mppt I am new at this but both of my conductors are copper wound but they don't have the chocolate like coating that you showed where that young man sent you pictures of looks like machine is well built I am here in the states I did purchase mine off of eBay and I have sent a note when I purchased it making sure that they sent me the right one no problems little machine is working just fine like yours but this is a cpy 2420 I know it is not a $400 machine that's the way I look at it mine cost $32 with free shipping if you can get back with me
Dear Adam, thanks for the many great videos on these smaller inverters. Can you please review your settings on the EPsolar inverters again? I've been playing with mine (the default settings are far too high...), but can you share your experiences after months of use? Thanks; and keep up your excellent videos. :)
My cpy-2420 (two inductors and a 20A fuse inside) appears to have failed in the past couple of days. It’s been running for almost 6 months in my van as follows:Two 100w flexible panels One 110Ah batteryAll loads connected to batteryAn ignition switched relay to charge the house battery when the engine is running Currently I’m getting around 21v on the panel terminals regardless of load. No more than 12.7v across the battery, even when the battery has been below 12v for some time. A fluctuating 15-16v on the load terminals (nothing connected but does dip by half a volt with a small load (only willing to risk my cheap 300w inverter with nothing connected right now)). Solar LED flashes randomly Load LED always lit Battery LEDs all lit during the day, 1 LED flashing during the night I’m tempted to just replace it with something from a reliable brand.
I again have bought a cpy-2410 and 2 cpy-2420. The 2410 has PCB version 2.3 and the 2420 has version 2.4 but still they are different. One version has the standard heatsink and 15A fuses and the other one has a big heatsink like the CPS and 20A fuses and has more measures to cool the PCB. The no load current varies from 50mA to 80 mA not
I know this is old review but one thing intrigues me. Solar charge controller has 3 "ports" - Solar panel input, battery , Load output. And still, during the review which was going fine, you placed a load (21W lamp) directly on battery, posibly screwing with cheap controllers calculations. Why not use the "Load port" to connect the lamp? After all it is a cheap charger that was built to function that way... I have a cheap PWM controller and it works fine if you connect it "the right way" - this one is so screwd it goes berserk if you connect solar panel before battery, for example, so I'm wandering if this MPPT one functions ok if used as "intended"?
I have the same mppt, had replaced my generic pwm, I was thinking the same, since the excess power from the panel will go to the load like what an mppt should suppose to do, it did not kick in into battery because it might mess up the batteries charge rhythm or it detected an increase in the battery port temperature because of the sudden discharge from the lamp so it did not kick in into charging voltage as it could decrease the battery life
Do you have any connections to UEIUA stuff?? i need the apps they included with the ones they sell that have IR remotes to set them. mine had units you plug into your phone (IR) so you could use phone with an app. Mine is a CPL model
It appears that it's optimised for MPPT but only with 1 panel maybe, meaning it wasn't designed to take into account more panels in series. Since it always seems to sit around 16-17v which is the MPPT for 1 panel usually. So the controller is useless if you have panels in series, that's what I am thinking. Not 100% pure though.
Now there's a CPY & CPS - BIG V2.4. 2017-05-09. Has the offset Coils, and centre USB as in CPY board, 5 Caps, and everything else much like the CPS board. Sold as CPY-2410
That board looks identical to the cpy-2420 that iv just got (dated 03-2018) - so far the unit seems to do what it says on the tin. will send photo of pcb if interested mine managed to extract quite a close wattage to my victron on the same panels under the same test conditions- I will run the same test on it with regard to restarting bulk charge when a load is detected and see if the issue has been resolved on these latest ones
They broke the first rule of Engineering : "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I myself value my expensive batteries and would NEVER connect them to these cheap chargers. I bought the Morningstar Sunsaver TrackStar 15 Amp MPPT Charge Controller for my cabin, and its NOT cheap for a reason. Works like a dream.
Perhaps that is why people view my videos (and those like me). We test things before you commit your money. Sadly this time things changed in between the test and the delivery. Nearly all of my items are cheap, I just keep an eye on them to start with until they build my confidence in them.
That is why I watch your channel as well and love your content. I have nothing against cheap, but there are some instances where "Cheaping out" will cost a lot more later. $1000 worth of batteries is one occasion.
Shut off says 14.7 but is 15.2v on the one I received from ebay,to high but is perfect for my use on my off grid deep freezer 260w solar panels two 12v marine batteries.Without a constant load this will Fry a battery.
My problem with (and I've used several different charge controllers) is that they're generally not that great. My current controller with a full battery and 7A available from solar panels, with a 4A load running, will take a trickle from the panels and run the load off the battery. Despite there being more power available from solar, it depletes the battery rather than running the system efficiently.
I know what you mean. This is usually to do with the boost, float and the boost restart voltage settings (EPEver who I have the most experience with call it Boost Reconnect Charging Voltage). Being able to adjust this voltage helps with the problem you describe - if the battery falls below the float voltage start a full charge again.
@@AdamWelchUK I'm wondering whether there's some way around it.There surely must be because otherwise look at all that free electricity we're just wasting. Out of interest I put a voltage controller on my two 30W solar panels and used them to run my 4A fans. It worked really well. The controller would cut out when there wasn't enough sunlight and cut back on when there was. The only thing I can think of doing (aside from sucking it up and accepting power will be wasted) would be to use the voltage controller to activate a relay so that when sufficient power was coming from solar, the fan would be powered directly by solar but by the charge controller when there was not sufficient solar power. This is my test setup with one 30W panel and one 2.5W (1.8W) extraction fan. th-cam.com/video/fCDHYLfRDJI/w-d-xo.html
Hello I guess your follower’s would call me a nub. Let’s go anyway. My understanding that the MPPT controller reads the resistance of a given panel. Now if I have multiple panels I cannot see input screws for each of the panel. This means that the panel are either in parallel or series and then they are wired into the controller. Same question if you have a combined controller charger unit connected to several batteries. For me the cost of each component is very important since I live in Canada where you have extreme cold, witch affects the output on the panel side and the storage side (agm for now, LiFePhosphate if I win the lottery). The cost comes in because compensation for temperature and expose to sun, necessitates more panels, bigger MPPT controller chargers and increased number of batteries. This does not take into consideration fuses, diodes, disconnects, high gauge wiring ( 0 for me right now). This means I have to build the solar system bit by bit.
It doesn't seem so much that it is because it is cheap that version 2 is no good. Its presumably because costs have been cut in production. The same could happen with an expensive commodity - once they have established a market, the manufacturers have leeway to reduce quality and still have buyers on the strength of the old version and old rep. This seems to be the case with certain luxury car brands, for instance.
Thank you, Adam, for this deep insight, i learned a lot from! ==> obviously well meant, but badly done... if MPPT algorithm fails to keep it's initial MPP ~36V but travels far away downwards to only 50% performance, it can't be very smart: any manual fixed setting would do better ! ==> any recent development / bugfix update during 2018 ?
Looks like some sellers are selling the bare PCB without the case...not this peticular model but if one looks hard enough, Im sure they can find the MPPT version. Anyone recently ordered from GearBest and gotten the new or the old version?
The sellers should take pictures of an example of what they are selling with the top off, then buyers who are more versed in what they are looking for, can buy the right one.
This board can't handle panels in series. I've done some extensive testing with the version 2.3 which shows that. Furthermore reset the charger (disconnect battery) everytime after changing the solar panel configuration.
too bad they can't stop when they have a useful product. revisions are supposed to improve the product, not so much in this case. I don't trust these cheap controllers to not catch fire especially the 20 amp and higher versions. another good video!
The Left Hand yea. they keep trying to make more and more money off the product. by cutting cost of building it. in most or some cases anyway. I been looking at power jack inverters for a few years. and it looks like they are trying to build a good product. I hope they have got there. I bought a 2017 model inverter. they started putting the MOSFETs on their own boards. with screws making the electric connections and mounting. with easy replacement parts available. I still have my fingers crossed. it has worked great so far. I'm looking for a good MPPT controller. I hope to find a cheap. good quality 30-40 amp for my system. along with solar panels. to charge my 24v lead acid bank. and my lithium bank. a 10-20 amp lithium controller would be fine for now. my lithium bank is Small for now. I hope to get 1500 watts in panels soon. along with a small hydro generator. I hope for 10-20 amps at 24v
If you use 4s and are not in need to pump it up to the max: yes, you can. I'm using a 4s1p just for keep the controller alive. With a 100 Watt panel and as a load I use a step-up converter to 42 Volts to load my e-bike batteries. Works quite well, with low losses.
@@kapegede You could just use the step up converter directly on the solar panel going straight to the battery... unless I've missed something in what you said. Not sure what you meant by "just to keep the controller alive".
I bought one and it won’t charge the battery? Everything checked and worked on pwm perfectly until I installed this. The solar light turns on fine but just won’t deliver any current.
It is too bad the cps-2410 has a design flaw, either firmware or hardware related, as it seems quite well built otherwise with far beefier tracks, heatsink, more practical connection points and obviously 2 inductors instead of one. Kinda of a waste of work. Seems like the company has some competence issues.
+threeparots1 Yeah it’s odd. I’d suggest it was a cost saving exercise but as you say, the larger heat sink, dual inductors and beefier tracks don’t seem to be cost saving even if the change of the micro controller is.
Adam Welch it would seem like the micro controller programming is the let down. Good way to shoot ones own foot. Great review as always. Too bad this company is inconsistent in their manufacture and clearly made for baffled buyers after your review. A little embarrassing to review something to have them use a variety of internal components that operate completely differently depending on the package you receive. Could probably sell many more if they got their act together and at a slightly higher price too. Odd really.
timemachine194 good to know. Battery isn’t going to like that kind of voltage for two long. Company in house testing would be wise 😝. Hopefully a refund can be had.
Thanks for the review again. I got the dud CPY-2410 and it is really poor. Doesnt work anywhere near the results you got from your original review. I will never buy another UEIUA product again.
The "UEIUA" is read as "Wee-you-ahh". I think some scammers managed to get their hands on the case, replaced the innards with PWM or even switching one or factory reject and sold them just like genuine one (or maybe the QC has gone south)
Something has gone wrong. Wee-you-ahh - I'll try to remember that, although I'm a northern lad and my pronunciation of English words sometimes leave something to be desired!
It's the same board I got with a CPY2420 and 2410.Funny the 10Amps version have the same CPU, parts a missing capacitor and 15amps fuses instead of 20amps in CPY2420.Both behave strange and are unuseful.
Sounds fishy to me, as if they waited for your positive review and then put the cheaper version on sale. It's a common Chinese business practice, and the only way to combat it is for everyone to return their purchase and ask for a refund. Sadly, most people will not even know that they've been sold something which is not fit for purpose, so mass return of controllers will not happen.
Certainly something wrong with it. Because the solar panel voltage would rise as the battery is near full charge due to the controller backing off the charge rate. It reduces power input by reducing current drawn from the panels. But the same would go for a PWM because it would reduce the duty cycle as the battery nears full charge so the panel voltage would appear to rise. MPPT unit should never go much below 17V per panel assuming 22V OC panels.
It arrived and it seems I have the useless one :/. Mine has 20A Fuses. I also does the same as the one in the video with the panel voltage by not really keeping them near the MPP. Thats a shame!
I just change a lot of things, new better cablers, a new 150w mono panle, I have now 300w, even a new AGM deep cycle 100Ah works like a dream.The panels are in series , aournd 38v and Victron is haveing no trouble charghing the battery after the night use. In a coupke of days I'll rehook CPY 2420 and little brother CPY 2410 for a poroper test..
CPY-2420 get sold but I still have some orders for new ones.I'll try what you say with 2410 I still have, but this one acts strange, the green LED for panel is on when I connect the battery and then , slowly start pushing some current.I just got a second panel, so I have them in series up to 38v.I'm in doubt CPY 2410 will do the same or almost the same job, but I can't understand why they put a lot of components and work for a fake.Also the weather now is cloudy and rainy for days.I'll let know results as soon as sunshine and new 2420 received.Again ..this is just for fun and experiment.
What are you talking about, you seem to be clueless. The controller does not control the power coming in, that is controlled by the amount of sunlight and the number and type of solar panels used. What is important is the amps going to the battery, not the watts. Clearly based on what I can see, at one point 2.1 amps were coming in, and 2.45 amps were going to the battery, this is MPPT. The controller converts volts to amps. Battery chargers are rated at amps, not volts or watts. Ha-ha-ha, you go on and on how how the controller controls the volts coming in, that is crazy. As far as I can tell, the unit appears to work quite well. Total watts going to the battery are close to the watts coming in, the voltage is lower, but the amps are more, which tells me the MPPT is working great. When you said the unit should control the volts coming in I almost cracked up, the unit only controls what goes to the battery. Wow, maybe you should do something else.
Okay I read your link, and I think you are lost in the math. The goal of the charger is to charge the battery. A solar panel puts out maximum current at almost zero volts and maximum voltage at almost zero current. The difference between the two is the resistance of the circuit or load, in this case the load is the battery. The controller maximizes power to the load, the battery. It converts DC to AC, than back to DC, that's the reason for the power coil. To get AC, you have to switch the DC power, the more you switch, the lower the voltage and the higher the current. At some point the battery will be charged, then the voltage will show higher on the input with less amps flowing. The load is controlling the volts and amps, the panel has a set limit on each, the purpose of the charger is to charge the battery, maximum power point tracking to the battery. Just so you know, watts are important in a battery charger, but only in relation to the battery. A 150 volts at .01 amps will give you 1.5 watts and it would probably wreck the battery. A 150 amps at 1 volt (150 watts) will not charge a 12 volt battery. Fifteen volts at 1amp, (15 watts) will charge a 12 volt battery. You buy a battery charger to charge a battery, hence the name.
I get how the MPPT is supposed to work, what you don't get is that this is a battery charger. If the battery doesn't need the power because it is fully charged, it would be silly to put an artificial load on the panel to continue to optimize it's power output. By optimizing power to the battery, the panels will come to MPPT almost by definition, especially if the battery is deeply discharged or showing a low voltage due to a high load. As the battery becomes charged at 80 to 90% of capacity, the power supplied to the battery generally is reduced, what would be the point of creating artificial resistance to the panels which would create heat in the charging unit. The needs of the battery determines how the charger will work. I guess a utility might do this in anticipation of future demand, but I don't see a heat radiator on this charge controller. The battery is the resistance and the load. From your link: "When the batteries in an off-grid system are fully charged and PV production exceeds local loads, an MPPT can no longer operate the panel at its maximum power point as the excess power has no load to absorb it. The MPPT must then shift the PV panel operating point away from the peak power point until production exactly matches demand. (An alternative approach commonly used in spacecraft is to divert surplus PV power into a resistive load, allowing the panel to operate continuously at its peak power point.) "
`15.7V is equalization mode, would kick in for an hour to equalize all the cells battery, it wouldn't harm the battery but could harm those plugged in into the load output dc rated equipment 12~13v because of the over voltage, and you cannot edit it because it does not have any controls, might as well not to buy this crap, but if you have one, to prevent that crap controller from doing that overvoltage thing is to add more devices in the load output or add another battery in parallel,
This will be my last reply, because you are just too clueless to continue this discussion. First, I did edit my statement, about two minutes after I first wrote it, you were just too clueless to notice it earlier. Second, I would say that you are the one who has learned something from my comments. However, you keep talking about controlling what goes into a battery using a lab power supply, by increasing voltage you can force more amps into the battery. Stop there, that is clueless. By increasing the voltage you are overriding the resistance of the battery and you will end up with a burned up battery. Ha-ha-ha, you don't seem to know anything about the basics. My other comments are true, especially the comment about amps as a measure of power for a 12 volt battery charger, look at almost any ad and you will see their rated power in amps at 12 volts. Batteries are sold based on amps at a particular voltage i.e., 700 cold cranking amps at 12 volts. Ha-ha, please. As far as this charger, my initial statement was that it appears to be working based on what I can see. I didn't say I had tested it myself. What I objected to was the methodology and the reasoning going into the test as shown. In the video you can clearly see that after he puts a load on the battery, you have 2.04 amps coming in and 2.37 amps going to the battery. This is the MPPT I was talking about, more amps going to the battery than what are coming from the panel. Whether the unit discussed is any good for reliability and safety is unknown to me, it isn't tested here. The only person who seems intend on embarrassing themselves is you, you keep stepping in it, but you are so clueless you don't even know it. I read your comments and even you admit it is working, but then you make baseless claims that are not supported in the video. Personally, and this is just an opinion, maybe you shouldn't play with electricity or these types of things without adult supervision, you might hurt yourself.
@timemachine_194It's been a while, I hope you haven't hurt yourself while fooling around with these things. I reread your post and mine; you said you don't need artificial resistance to force the panel to maintain maximum efficiency. ________________________________________________________ "By the way- the controller doesn`t need to create artificial resistance. it simply adjust its stepdown-PWM of its dcdc-converter circuitry to tune the difference between Panel voltage and battery voltage. All the panel`s energy minus stepdown-efficiency will go into the battery in mppt-mode. ________________________________________________________ If that were true, why would your “link: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_point_tracking” claim otherwise? Ha-ha. Especially since resistance is the difference between maximum voltage and maximum amps. NASA uses resistance, you claim they don’t need to, maybe you should get in touch with them since you claim to have devised a new way of doing it. Think of all the money you could save the space program.
I have the 20 amp version of the one you reviewed and it lasted 6 weeks before catastrophic failure. The system was wired to two 12v panels in series and on a frosty morning the input capacitor connected to the panel exploded covering the circuit board with the paper used to insulate plates inside the capacitor. According to the data sheets for the solar panels they could never reach the 50 volts stated to be the maximum input voltage for the solar regulator. It also appears that the transistor controlling the 12v input is leaking current preventing it from now operating at 12v and one of the outputs from the micro controller is dead, this output feeds the driver for the switching transistors.
Before that all happened I found that the regulator would directly lock the panel to the battery voltage on smaller panels of 80 watts when the sunlight slowly increased. It had to be switched off/on for it to start mppt operation. Compared to the Victron regulator that I have used for many years this cheap regulator is just waste of money.
It works well my... the bulb you connected in the end of video just drained current from battery - not from charger, therefore microcontroller didn't see it. This one works just differently, lowering voltage on input allows less heat dissipation inside the device which is important for higher wattage. It would be also great to see the type of MosFet used on PCB to determine the real maximum input voltage the charger can withstand. Thank you for your work...
honest folow-up review. good man, thank you. i received the second version, unfortunately
Loved the video. In this case it's obvious that the controller don't work like it should. But I am very curious about other cheap MPPT controllers. How do they stack up against a more expensive MPPT controller? Maybe you could make a benchmark system with 2 controllers with the same size solar panel and sharing a single large battery. One of the controller would be a high quality controller that you trust to be as good as possible. That way you could always benchmark the cheap controllers against something. This might not be what you want do do. but i thought i would share the idea. Again loved this and many other videos.
Ingenfare Very good suggestion. I would love to see something like that done.
Just bought a CPY-2420 and don't know what to expect right now! Great videos, keep it up!
for CPY-2420 what is the max VOC for 12v and max voc for 24v systems and also max solar panel wattage.
@@chandruasp max panel wattage 240w for 12v panels, 480w for 24v; don't have the other specification but I'm quite sure it will be ok with my 12v 100w panel
@@jesjames Thank you very much jes james.
It's like a lottery getting a good version.
@@faidularcs Faidul, stop SPAMMING channels!
At 2:30 in this case it seems they have just been selling a 20amp version als a 10 amp, maybe they just had no 10amps in stock then. That's what they do. (All the cheap pwm 10, 20, 30 amp for 6, 7 or 8 euros selling price are all the same 30amps inside as well (!) - smart of course - three different types in stock to pick from would be way more expensive.)
Great video Adam! But can you test this controller with a single panel/parallel config? I'm interested to see if it will behave the same.
We have these under the brand "adventure king's" alot of people say they were pushing high volta and cooked the battery but some people say they worked fine.
I've just checked mine: I've the same mix-up: The CPS double coil withinness, but with the CPY case. Mine reads BIG V2.4 and it seems to works quite well. With the support of an USV battery I drag 105 Watt out of a 100 Watt panel, even when the battery almost died.
Adam, as usual great review! It would be interesting if you could contact the manufacturer and get some kind of explanation for the downgrade in working design... How's your Chinglish?
I love all these videos. Keep posting them. Lots of good how-to and reviews on here.
My EPEver/EPSolar Tracer A series MPPT controllers (one 4210A, two 3210A) continue to work without any problems (2 years continuous service for one of the 3210A's). Typical idle current on the 3210A is 15.7ma with the load Off, 33ma with the load On. It also goes into MPPT mode just above 5 watts of solar input and it tracks consistently, if not as fast as some of the more expensive MPPT controllers. A device that *reliably* meets your needs within your budget is a good buy ;-)
banggood.com still says they're selling the A Series (in the Q&A section of that page).
The lighting system in the shed out back has a 30 watt panel, 15AH of AGM batteries and a Landstar LS2024B controller. Didn't need the 20amp capability but did want to be able to monitor the solar performance with an eLog01. The 30 watt panel and 15AH battery are adequate for the limited use those lights get, even in the dreary days of January/February.
Thanks for all the reviews.
My take on a spreadsheet for figuring how much solar power and how big a battery bank is needed to run your list of devices:
www.jecarter.us/files/My-Solar-Generator.xls
Great series of vids, thanks. But for only 10amp charging, only one batt, and say 100watt panel, a PWM should work fine. For a 30amp charging system MTTP would be a benefit to charge a bigger batt, or operate a daytime load.
I agree. MTTP works best if you have unlimited storage - or you are using the power while it is being generated. My battery bank is full by mid morning most days, and at that point the solar charge controller is limiting the power coming in to protect them. MPPT works very well in grid tied situations, because there is always somewhere to dump the power. Generally most people can get away with PWM and the extra money for an MPPT controller may be better spent on another solar panel - which will help more on less bright days. Unless of cause you have run out of space to mount them like me!
I've been one of the lucky ones then
I bought two at the time of your review and they've both worked alright. Mine are single inductor.
+zogworth Good news. I can only talk about what’s in front of me - but it doesn’t stop me feeling guilty that people got duff units.
Hi I'm in OZ and I brought thee within the last 4 months . All are the same as what Adam has.
Mine are charging vented lead acid batteries and all units are working fine.
Thanks for the video. I have two of these charging two separate boat batteries (780cca 12V, lead acid) and they have been working perfectly for the past 12 months. I am only concerned that it gets up to 14.6 volts when charging. Will this reduce the life of my batteries??? P.S I monitor each battery voltage constantly with Bluetooth device battery monitor). Thanks
Thinking further about the newer version of this controller, perhaps the solution is what some of the MakeSkyBlue controller users have done - if the input voltage stays low for an extended period, disconnect the panels and make it start again.
Easily done with an Arduino or a PICAXE or even a mechanical timer - simply disconnect the solar panels for 30 seconds or a minute every 30 minutes to an hour. Not exactly how we expect to use these controllers but a relatively inexpensive way to get close to the expected performance - certainly cheaper than replacing it with a Midnite or a Tracer A series (my preference for small MPPT systems - the initial purchase possibly having been influenced by some Brit named Adam ;-)
May be the charge controller is design to work with 1 solor panel or more then 1 in parallel.which has 17ish volts as a maximum power point. Thats way the controller bring down the input voltage to 17 or 16 voltas to match the mpp of the panel.
i have a 200w 45v solar pnnel and need to get a mppt charger , whats cheapest one you could recomend for this pannel, your videos are very informitive and very scientific tests
Hi Adam, I wonder, after watching all of your 'cheap' MPTT controller reviews that I could find, do you recommend any of them (in the
Hi Simon. My favourite of the retail cheap MPPT charge controllers is the CPT-LA10 which I’ve done a couple of videos about. I’ve been using it on a small system for months and it’s remained reliable. Sadly the company who make it have changed the design of other charge controllers in their range so I can guarantee if you bought one it’d work as well as mine. Spending twice the money £50-60 would get you an EPEver 10amp MPPT Charger and you get quite a bit more for your money.
I’ve been sent a MPT-7210A by someone who upgraded from it. Julian Ilett did a whole series of videos on it though, and I’m not sure what more I could mention after those. Cheers
Adam Welch, thanks. I'll check it out and the video series from Julian
I think the date is in the ISO 8601 format. YYYY-MM-DD. They usually use it because a list of dates can be sorted in lexicographic order, which corresponds to the chronological order.
Those ISO standards just don't roll off my tongue easily enough! Cheers - I'll try and remember that one.
I know that this product has been improved, has been more and more good.
Hi Daisy - do you work with UEIUA? Could you explain the reason for changing the PCB inside the CPY-2410?
Adam Welch I also would like to know why both cpy 2410 and 2420 are equiped with the same bad V2.3 board. There is absolutely no difference accept the printing on the case. I've asked this question to the company directly and they never replied.
Adam Welch after you were review on the cpy 2410 I went to eBay and bought the 24-20 I have not had no problems open the case up two conductors all indications it is a true mppt I am new at this but both of my conductors are copper wound but they don't have the chocolate like coating that you showed where that young man sent you pictures of looks like machine is well built I am here in the states I did purchase mine off of eBay and I have sent a note when I purchased it making sure that they sent me the right one no problems little machine is working just fine like yours but this is a cpy 2420 I know it is not a $400 machine that's the way I look at it mine cost $32 with free shipping if you can get back with me
Dear Adam, thanks for the many great videos on these smaller inverters. Can you please review your settings on the EPsolar inverters again? I've been playing with mine (the default settings are far too high...), but can you share your experiences after months of use? Thanks; and keep up your excellent videos. :)
Have one of the latter one's, works ok .
Just don't over panel them.They don't handle that to well.
so which conclusion is good, sir?
My cpy-2420 (two inductors and a 20A fuse inside) appears to have failed in the past couple of days.
It’s been running for almost 6 months in my van as follows:Two 100w flexible panels One 110Ah batteryAll loads connected to batteryAn ignition switched relay to charge the house battery when the engine is running
Currently I’m getting around 21v on the panel terminals regardless of load.
No more than 12.7v across the battery, even when the battery has been below 12v for some time.
A fluctuating 15-16v on the load terminals (nothing connected but does dip by half a volt with a small load (only willing to risk my cheap 300w inverter with nothing connected right now)).
Solar LED flashes randomly
Load LED always lit
Battery LEDs all lit during the day, 1 LED flashing during the night
I’m tempted to just replace it with something from a reliable brand.
I again have bought a cpy-2410 and 2 cpy-2420. The 2410 has PCB version 2.3 and the 2420 has version 2.4 but still they are different. One version has the standard heatsink and 15A fuses and the other one has a big heatsink like the CPS and 20A fuses and has more measures to cool the PCB. The no load current varies from 50mA to 80 mA not
+54CHARM That’s such a shame. Sadly they’ve changed it for the worse - looks like it has become one to avoid.
Adam Welch at least I've got a refund of 50% so now it's worth the money 😁
BTW, it does drop down to 13.3V after about an hour at 14.6V.
I know this is old review but one thing intrigues me.
Solar charge controller has 3 "ports" - Solar panel input, battery , Load output.
And still, during the review which was going fine, you placed a load (21W lamp) directly on battery, posibly screwing with cheap controllers calculations.
Why not use the "Load port" to connect the lamp? After all it is a cheap charger that was built to function that way...
I have a cheap PWM controller and it works fine if you connect it "the right way" - this one is so screwd it goes berserk if you connect solar panel before battery, for example, so I'm wandering if this MPPT one functions ok if used as "intended"?
I have the same mppt, had replaced my generic pwm, I was thinking the same, since the excess power from the panel will go to the load like what an mppt should suppose to do, it did not kick in into battery because it might mess up the batteries charge rhythm or it detected an increase in the battery port temperature because of the sudden discharge from the lamp so it did not kick in into charging voltage as it could decrease the battery life
there's some sense in what you have argued there too bad its 4 years down the line to reply this
Do you have any connections to UEIUA stuff?? i need the apps they included with the ones they sell that have IR remotes to set them. mine had units you plug into your phone (IR) so you could use phone with an app. Mine is a CPL model
There is also the 20A version "CPY-2420" for not much more (20€ instead of 16€).
It appears that it's optimised for MPPT but only with 1 panel maybe, meaning it wasn't designed to take into account more panels in series. Since it always seems to sit around 16-17v which is the MPPT for 1 panel usually.
So the controller is useless if you have panels in series, that's what I am thinking. Not 100% pure though.
Now there's a CPY & CPS - BIG V2.4. 2017-05-09.
Has the offset Coils, and centre USB as in CPY board, 5 Caps, and everything else much like the CPS board. Sold as CPY-2410
I have this model as well. Any tests done on it? Is it any good?
Crazy! Like playing lottery!
That board looks identical to the cpy-2420 that iv just got (dated 03-2018) - so far the unit seems to do what it says on the tin. will send photo of pcb if interested mine managed to extract quite a close wattage to my victron on the same panels under the same test conditions- I will run the same test on it with regard to restarting bulk charge when a load is detected and see if the issue has been resolved on these latest ones
sir if i got that same kind of controller can i series now my pannel? like 2 12V 50W?
Interesting.....:) i've become a fan for PV, also i have a build....you say should i upload it ?
My 2420 cpy does MPPT, checked input voltage about 30 Volt and output about 13 volt with higher Amp. So I got lucky :)
They broke the first rule of Engineering : "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I myself value my expensive batteries and would NEVER connect them to these cheap chargers.
I bought the Morningstar Sunsaver TrackStar 15 Amp MPPT Charge Controller for my cabin, and its NOT cheap for a reason. Works like a dream.
Perhaps that is why people view my videos (and those like me). We test things before you commit your money. Sadly this time things changed in between the test and the delivery. Nearly all of my items are cheap, I just keep an eye on them to start with until they build my confidence in them.
That is why I watch your channel as well and love your content.
I have nothing against cheap, but there are some instances where "Cheaping out" will cost a lot more later.
$1000 worth of batteries is one occasion.
+UFOhunter Thankfully I’ve never made that level of investment in the shed and I can keep cheaping out for your enjoyment! :-)
👍🏻
Shut off says 14.7 but is 15.2v on the one I received from ebay,to high but is perfect for my use on my off grid deep freezer 260w solar panels two 12v marine batteries.Without a constant load this will Fry a battery.
Two inductors not in the same position as either of the two you showed,different board conductors are not side by side but offset.
I'm thinking the one with two inductors is in fact the 20A version. Sorta hard to complain on that.
My problem with (and I've used several different charge controllers) is that they're generally not that great. My current controller with a full battery and 7A available from solar panels, with a 4A load running, will take a trickle from the panels and run the load off the battery. Despite there being more power available from solar, it depletes the battery rather than running the system efficiently.
I know what you mean. This is usually to do with the boost, float and the boost restart voltage settings (EPEver who I have the most experience with call it Boost Reconnect Charging Voltage). Being able to adjust this voltage helps with the problem you describe - if the battery falls below the float voltage start a full charge again.
@@AdamWelchUK I'm wondering whether there's some way around it.There surely must be because otherwise look at all that free electricity we're just wasting. Out of interest I put a voltage controller on my two 30W solar panels and used them to run my 4A fans. It worked really well. The controller would cut out when there wasn't enough sunlight and cut back on when there was.
The only thing I can think of doing (aside from sucking it up and accepting power will be wasted) would be to use the voltage controller to activate a relay so that when sufficient power was coming from solar, the fan would be powered directly by solar but by the charge controller when there was not sufficient solar power.
This is my test setup with one 30W panel and one 2.5W (1.8W) extraction fan.
th-cam.com/video/fCDHYLfRDJI/w-d-xo.html
Hello I guess your follower’s would call me a nub. Let’s go anyway. My understanding that the MPPT controller reads the resistance of a given panel. Now if I have multiple panels I cannot see input screws for each of the panel. This means that the panel are either in parallel or series and then they are wired into the controller. Same question if you have a combined controller charger unit connected to several batteries. For me the cost of each component is very important since I live in Canada where you have extreme cold, witch affects the output on the panel side and the storage side (agm for now, LiFePhosphate if I win the lottery). The cost comes in because compensation for temperature and expose to sun, necessitates more panels, bigger MPPT controller chargers and increased number of batteries. This does not take into consideration fuses, diodes, disconnects, high gauge wiring ( 0 for me right now). This means I have to build the solar system bit by bit.
cpy-2420 2x190 watt mono panels / is the device damaged
How much sun is on the solar panels when power drops?
It doesn't seem so much that it is because it is cheap that version 2 is no good. Its presumably because costs have been cut in production. The same could happen with an expensive commodity - once they have established a market, the manufacturers have leeway to reduce quality and still have buyers on the strength of the old version and old rep. This seems to be the case with certain luxury car brands, for instance.
Thank you, Adam, for this deep insight, i learned a lot from! ==> obviously well meant, but badly done... if MPPT algorithm fails to keep it's initial MPP ~36V but travels far away downwards to only 50% performance, it can't be very smart: any manual fixed setting would do better !
==> any recent development / bugfix update during 2018 ?
Time machine has pointed out elsewhere that they do not like panels in series and you'll get much better results with panels in parallel.
@@johnarmstrong3782 Still bad: MPPT converters are made for series strings, so they should not fail on this ever...
Looks like some sellers are selling the bare PCB without the case...not this peticular model but if one looks hard enough, Im sure they can find the MPPT version. Anyone recently ordered from GearBest and gotten the new or the old version?
Is it good to charge 18650 li-ion wit PWM inverter
The sellers should take pictures of an example of what they are selling with the top off, then buyers who are more versed in what they are looking for, can buy the right one.
This board can't handle panels in series. I've done some extensive testing with the version 2.3 which shows that. Furthermore reset the charger (disconnect battery) everytime after changing the solar panel configuration.
too bad they can't stop when they have a useful product. revisions are supposed to improve the product, not so much in this case. I don't trust these cheap controllers to not catch fire especially the 20 amp and higher versions. another good video!
The Left Hand
yea. they keep trying to make more and more money off the product. by cutting cost of building it. in most or some cases anyway. I been looking at power jack inverters for a few years. and it looks like they are trying to build a good product. I hope they have got there. I bought a 2017 model inverter. they started putting the MOSFETs on their own boards. with screws making the electric connections and mounting. with easy replacement parts available. I still have my fingers crossed. it has worked great so far. I'm looking for a good MPPT controller. I hope to find a cheap. good quality 30-40 amp for my system. along with solar panels. to charge my 24v lead acid bank. and my lithium bank. a 10-20 amp lithium controller would be fine for now. my lithium bank is Small for now. I hope to get 1500 watts in panels soon. along with a small hydro generator. I hope for 10-20 amps at 24v
can the cpy-2410 use a lithium-ion battery
If you use 4s and are not in need to pump it up to the max: yes, you can. I'm using a 4s1p just for keep the controller alive. With a 100 Watt panel and as a load I use a step-up converter to 42 Volts to load my e-bike batteries. Works quite well, with low losses.
@@kapegede You could just use the step up converter directly on the solar panel going straight to the battery... unless I've missed something in what you said.
Not sure what you meant by "just to keep the controller alive".
I bought one and it won’t charge the battery? Everything checked and worked on pwm perfectly until I installed this.
The solar light turns on fine but just won’t deliver any current.
The solar voltage must be higher than the battery voltage. Else it won't do nothing.
@@kapegede returned it back to supplier, it was faulty. 🙂
It is too bad the cps-2410 has a design flaw, either firmware or hardware related, as it seems quite well built otherwise with far beefier tracks, heatsink, more practical connection points and obviously 2 inductors instead of one. Kinda of a waste of work. Seems like the company has some competence issues.
+threeparots1 Yeah it’s odd. I’d suggest it was a cost saving exercise but as you say, the larger heat sink, dual inductors and beefier tracks don’t seem to be cost saving even if the change of the micro controller is.
Adam Welch it would seem like the micro controller programming is the let down. Good way to shoot ones own foot. Great review as always. Too bad this company is inconsistent in their manufacture and clearly made for baffled buyers after your review. A little embarrassing to review something to have them use a variety of internal components that operate completely differently depending on the package you receive. Could probably sell many more if they got their act together and at a slightly higher price too. Odd really.
timemachine194 good to know. Battery isn’t going to like that kind of voltage for two long. Company in house testing would be wise 😝. Hopefully a refund can be had.
Thanks for the review again. I got the dud CPY-2410 and it is really poor. Doesnt work anywhere near the results you got from your original review. I will never buy another UEIUA product again.
The "UEIUA" is read as "Wee-you-ahh".
I think some scammers managed to get their hands on the case, replaced the innards with PWM or even switching one or factory reject and sold them just like genuine one (or maybe the QC has gone south)
Something has gone wrong. Wee-you-ahh - I'll try to remember that, although I'm a northern lad and my pronunciation of English words sometimes leave something to be desired!
Mine had the later revision board and pretty much died hours after being hooked up.
That's rubbish. Sorry to hear that
Voneschenbach which revision is on the board?
bridge the fuse and pump 100 amps through and show us the vid :D
would mounting a microchip on top of another do anything as in perfomance, processing or affect memory or would that not work at all?
It's the same board I got with a CPY2420 and 2410.Funny the 10Amps version have the same CPU, parts a missing capacitor and 15amps fuses instead of 20amps in CPY2420.Both behave strange and are unuseful.
Right! just a piece of sh...
More then Obvious the two boards are not the same on the reverse side. MOS FET arrangement is completely ascue.
Sounds fishy to me, as if they waited for your positive review and then put the cheaper version on sale. It's a common Chinese business practice, and the only way to combat it is for everyone to return their purchase and ask for a refund. Sadly, most people will not even know that they've been sold something which is not fit for purpose, so mass return of controllers will not happen.
Shame you didn`t do the obvious thing and put the load on the controler. Maybe than it could regulate de power.
Is it the model or you got a defective unit? Because mine is limited to 14v battery voltage, it does not go up above anymore on it
Apparently the company no longer exists in 2022
Certainly something wrong with it. Because the solar panel voltage would rise as the battery is near full charge due to the controller backing off the charge rate. It reduces power input by reducing current drawn from the panels.
But the same would go for a PWM because it would reduce the duty cycle as the battery nears full charge so the panel voltage would appear to rise.
MPPT unit should never go much below 17V per panel assuming 22V OC panels.
Absolutely. The hardware looks pretty good but seems to be let down by the code.
bugger, i just bought the 2420.
It arrived and it seems I have the useless one :/. Mine has 20A Fuses.
I also does the same as the one in the video with the panel voltage by not really keeping them near the MPP. Thats a shame!
th-cam.com/video/jLqJQFg59Q4/w-d-xo.html
From what I can tell from your PCB pictures, yours looks exactly like mine inside.
I just change a lot of things, new better cablers, a new 150w mono panle, I have now 300w, even a new AGM deep cycle 100Ah works like a dream.The panels are in series , aournd 38v and Victron is haveing no trouble charghing the battery after the night use.
In a coupke of days I'll rehook CPY 2420 and little brother CPY 2410 for a poroper test..
CPY-2420 get sold but I still have some orders for new ones.I'll try what you say with 2410 I still have, but this one acts strange, the green LED for panel is on when I connect the battery and then , slowly start pushing some current.I just got a second panel, so I have them in series up to 38v.I'm in doubt CPY 2410 will do the same or almost the same job, but I can't understand why they put a lot of components and work for a fake.Also the weather now is cloudy and rainy for days.I'll let know results as soon as sunshine and new 2420 received.Again ..this is just for fun and experiment.
The date on the section charge controller is either June or January..
You Said July man!!
lol gharge controller.
What are you talking about, you seem to be clueless. The controller does not control the power coming in, that is controlled by the amount of sunlight and the number and type of solar panels used. What is important is the amps going to the battery, not the watts. Clearly based on what I can see, at one point 2.1 amps were coming in, and 2.45 amps were going to the battery, this is MPPT. The controller converts volts to amps. Battery chargers are rated at amps, not volts or watts. Ha-ha-ha, you go on and on how how the controller controls the volts coming in, that is crazy. As far as I can tell, the unit appears to work quite well. Total watts going to the battery are close to the watts coming in, the voltage is lower, but the amps are more, which tells me the MPPT is working great. When you said the unit should control the volts coming in I almost cracked up, the unit only controls what goes to the battery. Wow, maybe you should do something else.
Okay I read your link, and I think you are lost in the math. The goal of the charger is to charge the battery. A solar panel puts out maximum current at almost zero volts and maximum voltage at almost zero current.
The difference between the two is the resistance of the circuit or load, in this case the load is the battery. The controller maximizes power to the load, the battery. It converts DC to AC, than back to DC, that's the reason for the power coil. To get AC, you have to switch the DC power, the more you switch, the lower the voltage and the higher the current. At some point the battery will be charged, then the voltage will show higher on the input with less amps flowing. The load is controlling the volts and amps, the panel has a set limit on each, the purpose of the charger is to charge the battery, maximum power point tracking to the battery.
Just so you know, watts are important in a battery charger, but only in relation to the battery. A 150 volts at .01 amps will give you 1.5 watts and it would probably wreck the battery. A 150 amps at 1 volt (150 watts) will not charge a 12 volt battery. Fifteen volts at 1amp, (15 watts) will charge a 12 volt battery. You buy a battery charger to charge a battery, hence the name.
I get how the MPPT is supposed to work, what you don't get is that this is a battery charger. If the battery doesn't need the power because it is fully charged, it would be silly to put an artificial load on the panel to continue to optimize it's power output. By optimizing power to the battery, the panels will come to MPPT almost by definition, especially if the battery is deeply discharged or showing a low voltage due to a high load. As the battery becomes charged at 80 to 90% of capacity, the power supplied to the battery generally is reduced, what would be the point of creating artificial resistance to the panels which would create heat in the charging unit. The needs of the battery determines how the charger will work. I guess a utility might do this in anticipation of future demand, but I don't see a heat radiator on this charge controller. The battery is the resistance and the load.
From your link: "When the batteries in an off-grid system are fully charged and PV production exceeds local loads, an MPPT can no longer operate the panel at its maximum power point as the excess power has no load to absorb it. The MPPT must then shift the PV panel operating point away from the peak power point until production exactly matches demand. (An alternative approach commonly used in spacecraft is to divert surplus PV power into a resistive load, allowing the panel to operate continuously at its peak power point.) "
`15.7V is equalization mode, would kick in for an hour to equalize all the cells battery, it wouldn't harm the battery but could harm those plugged in into the load output dc rated equipment 12~13v because of the over voltage, and you cannot edit it because it does not have any controls, might as well not to buy this crap, but if you have one, to prevent that crap controller from doing that overvoltage thing is to add more devices in the load output or add another battery in parallel,
This will be my last reply, because you are just too clueless to continue this discussion. First, I did edit my statement, about two minutes after I first wrote it, you were just too clueless to notice it earlier. Second, I would say that you are the one who has learned something from my comments. However, you keep talking about controlling what goes into a battery using a lab power supply, by increasing voltage you can force more amps into the battery. Stop there, that is clueless. By increasing the voltage you are overriding the resistance of the battery and you will end up with a burned up battery. Ha-ha-ha, you don't seem to know anything about the basics. My other comments are true, especially the comment about amps as a measure of power for a 12 volt battery charger, look at almost any ad and you will see their rated power in amps at 12 volts. Batteries are sold based on amps at a particular voltage i.e., 700 cold cranking amps at 12 volts. Ha-ha, please.
As far as this charger, my initial statement was that it appears to be working based on what I can see. I didn't say I had tested it myself. What I objected to was the methodology and the reasoning going into the test as shown. In the video you can clearly see that after he puts a load on the battery, you have 2.04 amps coming in and 2.37 amps going to the battery. This is the MPPT I was talking about, more amps going to the battery than what are coming from the panel. Whether the unit discussed is any good for reliability and safety is unknown to me, it isn't tested here. The only person who seems intend on embarrassing themselves is you, you keep stepping in it, but you are so clueless you don't even know it. I read your comments and even you admit it is working, but then you make baseless claims that are not supported in the video. Personally, and this is just an opinion, maybe you shouldn't play with electricity or these types of things without adult supervision, you might hurt yourself.
@timemachine_194It's been a while, I hope you haven't hurt yourself while fooling around with these things. I reread your post and mine; you said you don't need artificial resistance to force the panel to maintain maximum efficiency.
________________________________________________________
"By the way- the controller doesn`t need to create artificial resistance. it simply adjust its stepdown-PWM of its dcdc-converter circuitry to tune the difference between Panel voltage and battery voltage. All the panel`s energy minus stepdown-efficiency will go into the battery in mppt-mode.
________________________________________________________
If that were true, why would your “link: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_point_tracking” claim otherwise? Ha-ha. Especially since resistance is the difference between maximum voltage and maximum amps. NASA uses resistance, you claim they don’t need to, maybe you should get in touch with them since you claim to have devised a new way of doing it. Think of all the money you could save the space program.
Is it good to charge 18650 li-ion battery with PWM inverter