A useful tool - and you got through it and got it done. I need to make a pair - a little something for the weekend I think. Possibly holding the balls with V blocks and using a smaller end mill may have gone better. Thanks for posting the video. 👍
So you simply copied prezzos recent video. The reason for the flat is to prevent dents in the vice jaw which will transfer to future parts. Yet you held the balls against the jaws and putting a dent in them! Use a nut or a washer to sit the ball in, no flat required.
When I made them I just took them to the disc sander and flattened a spot in about 2 or 3 minutes. You just need a flat to prevent indentation of your movable vise jaw…..that’s all.
interesting idea. I wonder if a little block with a hole in it to accept a round headed copper rivet might do a similar job and offer more grip, although the rivet itself would be probably only be good for one, or a few uses.
Great reminder for some work holding. I often forget about using the ball technique. I know its a day late and a dollar short, but I have a photo of a workholding solution for holding a ball in a vise, on my channel. It is a bit more work, but it really locks them balls down. Thanks for the video!
A match pair… Wouldn’t it be better to have a match triplet? You’ll have the 3 points required for a surface. Bore the soft jaw at 1/3 the diameter and chamfer. That has more contact surface than the dimple you make and is less aggressive to the clamp. (Adjust the size of the hole according to the thickness of the material)
It would have but given the condition of the balls I figured it wasn’t worth the effort. Next time though if I can get some 25-30mm balls that are new I’d defs be up for it.
The milling body came with the mill and not mentioned on the making list inserts are TPMN160308 carbide. I think they are Mitsubishi but will need to check speed wise I don’t recall but low end of the high range speeds *I think*. I will try to include this information in future videos.
@@docsofftopic8130 I see what you mean about damaging the vise jaws. Did you damage yours too? How would a matched pair work on a rough casting? Did you wreck the insert edges cutting hardened steel? Did you consider holding the ball between two nuts to protect the jaws? Or maybe use one nut and no flat to hold a casting.
A useful tool - and you got through it and got it done. I need to make a pair - a little something for the weekend I think. Possibly holding the balls with V blocks and using a smaller end mill may have gone better. Thanks for posting the video. 👍
Mount so your cutting force is directed into the fixed jaw… and soft jaws if doing them from hardened steel.
Great job, useful tools for the shop.
Thanks for sharing.
Best regards John from the Black Country UK.
It looks like your mill is out of tram - the backside of the cutter cuts when it passes by.
Nope, 0.005mm length of travel in either axis.
Nice work, I will be putting these on the list to make
..now i get it! it took me until the end to figure out what you were doing. Good work Doc...!
It was such a neat trick when I saw Joe Pie use it that I had to make some…
So you simply copied prezzos recent video. The reason for the flat is to prevent dents in the vice jaw which will transfer to future parts. Yet you held the balls against the jaws and putting a dent in them! Use a nut or a washer to sit the ball in, no flat required.
When I made them I just took them to the disc sander and flattened a spot in about 2 or 3 minutes. You just need a flat to prevent indentation of your movable vise jaw…..that’s all.
More fun this way though and real easy to get a near matched pair. ;-) but yes I do agree if needing it quick and simple just grind the flat.
Ive just bought the same mill you have, any chance on some set up vids, I'm new to all this, cheers from NZ
All I have are some photos from the unloading, I can certainly do one going over the things to lookout for.
interesting idea. I wonder if a little block with a hole in it to accept a round headed copper rivet might do a similar job and offer more grip, although the rivet itself would be probably only be good for one, or a few uses.
Would work, much like using some brass rod or thick al wire. But these will out last me soooo just need to make sure I don’t misplace them lol
Great reminder for some work holding. I often forget about using the ball technique. I know its a day late and a dollar short, but I have a photo of a workholding solution for holding a ball in a vise, on my channel. It is a bit more work, but it really locks them balls down. Thanks for the video!
In which video does that photo appear?
A match pair…
Wouldn’t it be better to have a match triplet? You’ll have the 3 points required for a surface.
Bore the soft jaw at 1/3 the diameter and chamfer. That has more contact surface than the dimple you make and is less aggressive to the clamp. (Adjust the size of the hole according to the thickness of the material)
It would have but given the condition of the balls I figured it wasn’t worth the effort. Next time though if I can get some 25-30mm balls that are new I’d defs be up for it.
What inserts & spindle speeds did you use? Nice work- I would have expected grinding to be a little easier.
The milling body came with the mill and not mentioned on the making list inserts are TPMN160308 carbide. I think they are Mitsubishi but will need to check speed wise I don’t recall but low end of the high range speeds *I think*. I will try to include this information in future videos.
What are the flat faces for?
Keep the ball from moving, depending on geometry they can get squeezed out if left spherical. Second into minimise damage to your vice jaws.
@@docsofftopic8130 I see what you mean about damaging the vise jaws. Did you damage yours too? How would a matched pair work on a rough casting? Did you wreck the insert edges cutting hardened steel? Did you consider holding the ball between two nuts to protect the jaws? Or maybe use one nut and no flat to hold a casting.
You can do the same thing with a 10 or 12 gauge solid copper wire