วีดีโอ

What misting fluid do you use?

14 TPI is nowhere near 1.75mm pitch, its actually about 1.81mm . . . . I found that even a horribly overcut 14TPI would only engage an M40 x 1.75 collar for 2 or 3 turns before it bound up. Thats why I've just had to make some new change gears for my lathe (a 28T, 35T and 37T. Any one of them would have done, but I cut all 3 because I'd already spent the time doing the maths, and because it was fun !) Now I have 3 options to achieve 1.75 mm.

I'm glad you mentioned what the steel is, because the Colour code on the ends of steel is an internal device used by an individual supplier and not a standard...

Nicely done, great additions to the shop. If I may suggest something, when using the face mill on relatively thin widths, offset the spindle for oblique cutting, something I learnt from Sandviks website, reduces impact forces and noise. Maybe worth a try. Thanks for sharing

..they work. Good job Doc...!

Thankyou so much for a wonderful interesting video ,I just bought the same milling machine from Hare and Forbes and am very pleased with it, I am thinking that I will make the same base support plate for my mill. Once again thanks mate. Jim from Cootamundra NSW.

Nice work Doc, looks like you are getting on well with your new mill. You mentioned cutting the teeth with the mill in reverse (counter clockwise) because of manufacturer's recommendations - is there any reason it wouldn't work cutting clockwise and feeding left to right? Just asking for people whose mill doesn't have reverse.

Nice

Well that's a new workout to try

There's a smaller tooth ratio thats really, really close...0.06% 33/13 = 2.5385 2.5385 / 2.54 = 0.9994

..this like most machining operations is out of my wheelhouse, but like Spock said- Fascinating...

just have to add patina now!

Ive just bought the same mill you have, any chance on some set up vids, I'm new to all this, cheers from NZ

Gee that taping machine is a big improvement for that sort of work!

Mate of mine uses a fixture plate like this in his automatic hacksaw, it is a game changer for smaller items.

Great addition to the shop, mill mounted mag vice is an asset. Thanks for sharing

Nice addition to the shop, well made.

YG are excellent machining tools. Nice addition to the shop. Thanks for sharing

So how high did you space the plate above the deck to be sure you wouldnt end up bottoming your tap out on the bench surface? That would be my biggest fear! Also I like the YG taps as well, a mechanical engineer mate put me on to them a few years ago, cheap as chips on ali express.

How about a link to the tapping arm?

..That looks to be a Good piece of equipment Doc. That's better than eye ballin for vertical...!

Great video can I ask where you got the tapping arm from? :)

Very nice work sir

..that's something that you are building a piece, for the most part, on an outdated machine. it's like they don't make good and durable machinery nowadays. Good job Doc...

Hi Doc. Is your mill running a 3 phase motor .

For a more secure grip place a strip of steel each side.

..Well, it didn't sling it across the shop. i have to check them out because i may have a use for one of those. Thanks Doc...!

Went looking to see why I am getting water leaking down the back wall of the shed in heavy rain this morning. Found a 150mm diameter tree growing in my gutter which was blocking the water flow... might need to schedule gutter cleaning a bot more often than every 20 years...

..i feel your pain Doc. i got a new compressor also and have to run lines and power. But it's bigger and better than the existing one. Sometimes upgrades suk...!

..Well done on those screws Doc. i don't trust epoxy for a permanent hold. i'll us it to hold something untill it gets some kind of mechanical fastener, pins, rivets and such...

I am wondering is that a Visby. I just purchased a Russian lathe manufactured in 1976. I have to decode all the different diagramatic plates. I have not used a lathe in a very long time. The Russian lathe is a bit of a beast weighing at approximately 4 tonnes. It came with steadies, 3 and 4 jaw chucks etc etc. Also a large multi drawer cabinet with a treasure trove of cutting tips . Problem is, I have to admit I probably don't know how to use the bloody thing. I will learn as I do have the basic knowledge required. The gear box/headstock must easily weigh well over a metric tonne. I had to sort out the electrics..........managed that and it is humming along. Power feed to the carriage and slides. I'm hoping to pick up some basics from your videos.

I have a very similar mill - VERY similar. With careful use and setup they can be very accurate machine tools. They may not hog out huge cuts of material, but you can make accurate parts with good finishes, as long as you are patient.

A useful tool - and you got through it and got it done. I need to make a pair - a little something for the weekend I think. Possibly holding the balls with V blocks and using a smaller end mill may have gone better. Thanks for posting the video. 👍

Nicely done, makes sense now! Mine has the thread in the fingers, but it is a slide block ,so still wont wind the finger out. I wonder if roll pins would do the job instead of the grub screws.

Very nice work. I really need a steady rest. One day. He he

A match pair… Wouldn’t it be better to have a match triplet? You’ll have the 3 points required for a surface. Bore the soft jaw at 1/3 the diameter and chamfer. That has more contact surface than the dimple you make and is less aggressive to the clamp. (Adjust the size of the hole according to the thickness of the material)

Hi I have the same lathe as you, also with the main bearing oilers on top of the bearings and not on the sides as with the later South Bend 9-inchers. My question is: how do you achieve such accurate metric dimensions with a lathe calibrated imperially? With me it's mostly 'hit-&-miss'. Cheers, Thomas

Nice job, I assume you needed the adaptor because the southbend tail stock is MT2 ?

if you do blacksmithing can you tell us your channel

..i'm lost with machining things, although i do like watching the processes involved. Making your own tools is always a plus...

Hi Have you considered just using spiral flute machine taps? Just grip the tap tightly in the tailstock chuck, select low speed (40rpm) and use the jog button to start. Don't lock the tailstock down. Just slide it into the job and push it until the tap starts. It will automatically pull itself into the work. When the desired depth is reached, just reverse out.

It looks like your mill is out of tram - the backside of the cutter cuts when it passes by.

Another way to fill in another rainy day, employing the full suite of toys

i like this height gage, i will make this for myself, thank you for sharing

how is your quill lock? mine tends to drift a bit when making heavy cuts.

..That is a handy tool you have made Doc, Well done...!

What are the flat faces for?

Great job, useful tools for the shop. Thanks for sharing. Best regards John from the Black Country UK.