Combining Cedric & Ada's average cuts and representative knife prices, D2 is the cuts/dollar leader at 5.4, with the following steels close behind: ZDP-189, M390 and K390 all at 5.2. 8Cr13MoV brings up the rear at 1.7. Very interesting.
Nathaniel, there is a Google Docs spreadsheet linked in every rope cut test video description that is updated with all cut test results, that's where I got the rope cut data.
@@DL-ij7tf he got the corrosion resistance covered too, the only thing missing is toughness because it cost money to test it. But you can check DBK for that.
I too was converted to the"Way of the saw" by Silky saws. I carry as slightly larger fixed Blade version "Zubat" ziptied to my pack. Changed the way I look at for wood.
Hey DCA, so in the past I remember you suggesting the Boker Gulo Pro as a budget suggestion for the Sebenza. I think it would be great to do this with other iconic knives like the manual Strider, Olamic, Hinderer XM, CFK Rotten, Medford Praetorian, Spyderco Slyz Bowie, and/or Koenig Arius. You don't have to do all, but I hope you're up to the challenge. Thanks for always answering my questions.
2 years later, here rewatching this KniFAQ!!! Interestingly enough, I happen to purchased now all new Lil Temperance 3 LW “K390”. I have many pocket knifes in various handles & blade material… But, really appreciate Lil T3 LW for the robust blade, under 3” making it legal in many areas. Excellent EDC for utility & Defensive tool.
I just bought a new Mini Recon 1. It has the best example of GRN handles on a knife that I've ever seen. So much so that I thought the advertising for the handles as being GRN was incorrect. Overall, it's a really nice reincarnation of the original Mini Recon 1.
Entertaining as always. I look forward to your videos and no lie, I actually get a little bit excited when you drop a new one. Thanks for all the hard work!
That Cold Steel Mini Recon sure looks great. It looks like a great choice for the $68 price. CS does an awesome job with their heat treat on the Aus10-a. Great video once again DCA.
I work in a greenhouse. I cut plastic irrigation lines, pallet straps, string, but also need clean cuts for plants. I don't always have time to clean and dry the knife before pocketing. I don't mind spending some money, but it's got to last. What do you recommend? I prefer folders, but a fixed blade may be better?
Depending on your budget I might lean towards S35VN (a bit more spendy, but spyderco does their Tenacious in 35VN for under $100) or 14C28N (more budget options). I would lean towards knives with washers rather than bearings because bearings can trap moisture.
I think that both of the the Ka Bar Dozier Folding Hunter knives in both steels are the most bang for the buck in this genre. I own both because I will use them individually for different purposes. I may buy more for my little Grandchildren when the time is right.
Dear David C. Andersen, I am a big fan of ceramic knives in my kitchen. Blades made of ceramic could be a really good alternative to corrosion-resistant steel. Can you think of other steel alternatives (tungsten carbide, titanium, polymers) that are used in folders / survival / diving knives? Is there a reason we don't see these materials used more often?
I have the Katanaboy in my truck and RV. It’s almost like carrying a chain saw except a whole lot more compact with no additional fuel or oil storage required. It’s unbelievable what it will quickly buck. Add a Fireside Friend and a good fixed blade and you’re good-to-go.
DCA, Thomas, & Crew - really enjoy your presentations, and look forward to them every week now. So, I am a bit old school and have a modest collection of slip joints from the classic American manufacturers. I find most folks like me don't appreciate the quality and sophistication of modern knife designs, materials, and manufacturers - particularly knives made in Asia. How about a show contrasting some of the old classics with modern knives, or possibly a show just concentrating on slip joints. Another topic might be short blade knives, not just small size or small blade knives, but short blades. I find most of my daily EDC knife requirements can be met with a relatively short blade knife. Keep up the good work!
Your videos are addicting. Thanks for the content. I have a few titanium items in my edc and I’d like to complete it. I love combo edge knives and usually use spyderco but I’d like to join the flipper world.
There is a *VERY* clear distinction between a sheepsfoot blade and a wharncliffe blade! A sheepsfoot blade is designed to minimize accidental stabbing. A wharncliffe blade is designed for tip cutting, such that the spine can be easily re-ground to re-point the tip. A knife that does not satisfy either of these two criteria is neither one! It is sad that so many knifemakers don't even know this.
By traditional profile definitions, both sheepsfoot and wharncliff have flat/straight (No belly) cutting edges. A sheepsfoot blade spine is continuously tapered toward the cutting edge from the ricasso to the drop toward the point at edge ( drop angle greater than 90degrees). A wharncliff spine is parallel to the cutting edge until the drop to the point at the edge. Both designs have unsharpened spines over their entire length.
Please tell us about the different blades for saws. I know some blades are for green wood while others are for dry/deadfallen wood. Which type of blade do I need for frozen deadfallen wood?. I'm in Burlington Vermont winters 🥶🌀❄️ with snow & subzero temps. It will snow, them melt then FREEZE. Deadfallen wood can be covered in ice & have ice throughout the wood. I'm looking at either a Silky saw or a folding bow saw. I know you sell Silky saws. Not sure if you sell Bacho or Awaga Boreal 15 or 21 saws.
Seems like the big push for better Edge retention is mainly due to people not knowing how to sharpen. Even 154 CM which is considered lower end now can provide years and years of service no problem if you take care of the edge. Stop it from time to time and then when you really need it sharpened, take off minimal blade material and repeat. Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of m390, s110/s90 etc but I think the average person is better off learning how to sharpen first. Seems like that works sharp precision adjust is a great place to start, makes it super super easy to get a consistent Edge and the diamond abrasives mean that it's going to be able to sharpen most anything. I mean lower end steals definitely feel like you have to sharpen them all the time but even at the entry level of higher edge retention... People will be fine. I know a lot of people dunk on Chris Reeve knives for using "only" s35vn but if you know how to sharpen, that blade's going to last a really long time and based on the target market, makes sense to have something that can be sharpened in the field easily
Hey David! Can you recommend a hatchet? primary use would be chopping or splitting wood when camping. Looking for something under 24 inch handle, polymer or wood is fine!
I was a big fan of the cold steel spike scimitar was wondering if there is any alternatives being that it is so hard to find one since they discontinued it.
Great question about cost and blade steel. DCA nailed it when he used the law of diminishing returns on high end steel. I have nothing against people buying high end steels but I have found them to be unneeded in my life. If you want to drive a Ferrari to the grocery store go for it.
Warncliffe blades are designed to have both a cutting edge and an accute point to puncture things. eg. cutting open sacks or bags. Sheepsfoot blades are almost the opposite. They are designed to have a cutting edge with almost no point so as to avoid unwanted damage. eg. working on animals or rescuing people. Of course there are now many 'hybrid' variations. Sheepsfoot for field/survival - no way due to lack of a usable tip. BTW Mr AndersEn - love your videos and advice!!
I have an older cold steel knife with a kraton handle. The handle is still intact but softening. I have heard of many kraton handles degrading due to solvent contamination, age and general exposure/use. Is there a preservative such as AmorAll that can be safely used to preserve a kraton knife handle?
What would you recommend for a relatively cheap fixed blade to learn to sharpen with? Ideally high-carbon steel, 1095 would be best. I have a few ESEEs and I'd like to learn on something I'm not afraid to mess up. Also, is there a reason I shouldn't sharpen an outdoors or hunting knife down to a 15 degree edge? I have the Chef's Choice trizor 15 for my kitchen knives and that is set up for a 15 degree edge.
David... For an average day-to-day urban and RV camping mission what degree of edge bevel would you recommend for a given type of steel. I understand you cannot go down the list of each and every steel but please group them as best you can. It is also probably hard to not get into the weeds of specific mission tasks but please try and generalize, understanding that what I’m really interested in is degree of bevel as it relates to edge performance of various types of steel. For a given degree of bevel how would each group perform in terms of chipping, rolling and general wear? Hope that makes sense? Please disregard campfire preparation from the mission.
Hi DCA, I’m in the market for a new small/medium EDC/work fixed blade (3.5-4.5 inches). I’m trying to find a metal that has a good balance between edge retention and toughness, maybe leaning slightly toward toughness. I’d like a handle in the 4.5 inch range, budget is sub $300. Got any ideas where I could start looking?
I have to back up DCA on the hardest steels. I have the Manbug and the Endura both in K390, I've never touched either edge yet they both can still split hairs. It's phenomenal. I have blades in M390, 20CV, Cruwear/Z-Wear, as well as most of the upper grade steels (as opposed to top shelf like M390) and pretty much every mid and budget stainless and carbon. I notice no real difference between M390, 20CV, or K390. I care for my blades, so they don't rust, but if there's difference in performance I haven't seen it.
Hi David, Since you are on the blade material topic, I have a question of actuality. There’s a new steel that has yet to be used on production knives: MagnaCut. What production knives, one folder and one fixed blade, would you like to see first with that new steel? Why? Thanks!
For square blades, Gerber Flatiron is an alright budget option, while a Razel shape is more interesting. Spyderco makes the McBee, which I love a lot. CRKT makes a few Razel blades, and there's the expensive Graham Razel.
Hi, I'm an electrician from Germany, and I'm looking for a flipper knife with solid edge retention (gonna be stripping lots of wires, so the copper will wear out the blade) and a tanto style blade (sheepsfoot is also fine). The handle can't be too big since it will be living in my back pocket most of the time. Would really love to hear your recommendation!
The Syderco Para 3 is a fine EDC Knife. I own 3 Para 2s but I prefer the Para 3 cause I don't have really large hands. However I don't take anything away from the Para 2
my experience is,, the edge will never get as razor fine as many of your other options, but it will be MUCH more durable than cheaper knives that seem initially sharper, (Milwaukee fastback is so sharp at 14$) and will do most of your tasks just fine, but never give you that butter feel, but will do heavy duty. I am carrying the dozier featured every day,,, and I also carry a box cutter,, I find that between the two I am covered, and the dozier is so light I don't even notice it even in my shirt pocket. but I don't think it's a replacement for razor sharp, it's just the best way to have blunt invincible that cuts.
@@tsmspace what angle do you sharpen your D2 blade at, and how thick is the blade stock? I've had some pretty dang slicey D2, never though of the steel itself as something that's held back cutting ability
@@BaritoneMonkey it's the stock bevel. I don't find that the steel retention is poor, i find that the very finest of edges are not the best on it,, and then if it's just beefy enough it's very durable. SO,, mine I just can't seem to get such a fine edge that it glides through paper the same as softer steel. but it doesn't result in reduced performance in any real task, and my other blade I was carrying got tore up, while this one did not.
Sheep's foot: spine and edge are parallel. Lamb's foot: blade gets narrower toward the tip. Ram's foot: blade gets broader toward the tip. Most "modified" warncliffe and sheep's foot blades look like drop or clip point to me - I think of the straight edge as definitive.
Hi Mr. Andersen. A few months ago, I received a kizer lieb and I absolutely love it. I love the blade shape, the action especially on washers, the feel of the micarta. I just wish it was a little bigger. Anything you can suggest as a slightly larger lieb?
DCA, I'm looking for a recommendation for a pair of work knives. I usually pocket a fixed blade for heavier tasks and carry a folder for cutting zip ties in tight places inside machines. I'm looking for knives with a tough steel and cap the price at $400 for the pair, thanks!
I got you David, Light sabers as cannon in starwars ( not the torch hacksmith made)are more fictional that zombies. Fungus infections and make some bugs exhibit "zombie" characteristics. So technically you can see in real life a zombie but with light sabers, it's impossible due to energy density issues.
David, have learned so much from FAQs and new knives episodes. Have had to clear a lot of brush lately.. planning to get a silky saw, but may still need an axe for some small trees. Not looking for a tactical axe, but a good axe to chop down small dead trees (no more than a foot in diameter). What would you recommend (don't say chainsaw)? Don
What criteria do you all use to finally retire a knife and what do you do with your old beat up knives? I have a Benchmade Nimravus that I have basically really beat down for a couple years, but it is hard to say goodbye, so I made it my work on the farm knife. I have 3 Nimravus and a bunch of other knives, what do people do with their old knives?
I really like your Q&A segments. I would like to ask, if is there a locking folding pocket knife that you can close and deploy without using your thumb? just happened that my thumb is injured 😉
Hello DCA, a question on knife storage: Bought a Sack Ups knife roll to contain the collection, but a few knives are too wide to fit. Is there a comparable option (not a hard case; budget friendly; bulk storage) that can accommodate a Code 4, Medium Voyager, and such?
I use my knives mostly for making drinks. I want it to be foldable, highly water-resistant and tough enough to cut foil from bottles. It also needs to slice well for garnishes. Can you recommend a knife for these purposes?
Hi David, I just wanna ask about the Civivi button lock Elementum when it's gonna be available on the website? or that won't happen and need to pre-order it ? especially if I want to by some stuff more and gonna be shipped overseas. Thanks in advance
Preordering will hold your place in line. Eventually once CIVIVI's supply catches up to demand and we clear our backorders it will be more regularly available.. -DCA
A question for a future episode: What would you recommend for a good hunting/camping fixed blade that could be carried scout carry? Specifically a good quality knife. I am thinking something like an ESEE 4 but maybe a different sheath (as kydex seems like it would be uncomfortable in scout carry)….
Hey DCA, really nice and interesting show. I bought a sh bugout a while ago and I'm happy with it but I recently found out that there are clones out there. Could you please tell me how can I tell the difference? Thank you and keep up the good work!
Hard to say without examining. One way to avoid them is only buying from authorized dealers - avoid places like Amazon or Ebay since there is no way to verify in those cases. -DCA
Hello Mr Andersen! Where is the difference between a big knife and a machete stands for you? I have the Condor mini Duku in mind and cannot put it in a clear category. Also, do you have other similar options? Greetings from Switzerland (not Sweden)
If you don't mind putting your own handle on Lauri Knives a Finnish company makes a progressive tempered blade where the edge is HRC 63 hard then tempered back to 53 for the body of the knife. They'll hold an edge for quite a while. Wood carvers like them.
Howzit Mr Anderson. I have a VERY important question. What cut resistant gloves can you recommend for handling a knife. I am looking for gloves that I can use in the wild whilst bushcrafting and whittling. Would like to reduce the risk of injury whilst in the bushveld, since I am hours away from the nearest clinic.
I am looking for a lightweight folder the same size and weight as a Spyderco Delica 4 , for less cost. Is there a knife that is similar in size and weight for a lower price around $50.00 or less.
You should have used a Spydecro Yojimbo as an example instead of the "modified" one on the ZT. To me that ZT is a drop point or a modified spear point rather than a modified wharncliffe. Wharnies have a straight edge and a straight drop from the spine to edge.
Good day David C Andersen, What is your opinion on the Bestech 50 dollars D2 flippers? What I hear is good but I don't hear or read about them often. Are they a forgetten gem of deliberately unmentioned in the knife world. Been doubting about the Texel, Barracuda or scimitar. Big thnx upfront and have a great day.
Plenty of belly on the Griptilian sheepsfoot blade, which is more of a modified sheepsfoot. I think the tip of that knife itself behaves more like a drop point. Love it! -DCA
DCA, can you suggest an easy to open and close pocket knife for an 86yr old who can no longer open his old school slip joint? I just tried the Spyderco Roadie. He can open it but unfortunately, he can't close it. Thanks! PS. My dad has dementia and can't use most types of locks.
So I have the month of the knife club membership and I got a BROUS BLADES THREAT folder and It is 1 of 600 made and I was wondering what your thoughts were about it?
Would like to see a review on the Bradford guardian 3.5 and the best steel to get it in. at this point I think there is like 4 or 5 different steels you can get them in.
Hello, I am looking to getting my first fixed blade with a horizontal carry sheat , with a drop point /spear point and thick handle under 4 inches . Any recommendations?
A big thank you to who ever prepares the show notes! I really dig the links to the website and the bookmarks into the video!
Very much appreciated!
It's Thomas, you'll never see his face. He is even more elusive than Nick Shabazz.
Combining Cedric & Ada's average cuts and representative knife prices, D2 is the cuts/dollar leader at 5.4, with the following steels close behind: ZDP-189, M390 and K390 all at 5.2. 8Cr13MoV brings up the rear at 1.7. Very interesting.
I’ve seen him do some cut tests with the rope but I’ve never seen the info summed up. That is for the info and I’ll have to search out that video
If you're only looking at edge wear. I wonder how each steel would rank if tested for corrosion resistance, durability, etc.
Nathaniel, there is a Google Docs spreadsheet linked in every rope cut test video description that is updated with all cut test results, that's where I got the rope cut data.
Great observation, Paola!! 👍
@@DL-ij7tf he got the corrosion resistance covered too, the only thing missing is toughness because it cost money to test it. But you can check DBK for that.
The idea with a wharncliffe is if you damage the tip you can shave down the curve to a new point. So that's my test for the naming when it's close.
DCA and KnifeCenter are the best in the game right now for TH-cam content on blades/etc. from a knife company IMO! Thanks for the content guys!
DCA for president I say 🤠
God Bless you guys so much. Thank you David for mentioning my question. I watch this channel as much as I see it
Yes it's Knife Center time! Thanks D. C A and team!
I too was converted to the"Way of the saw" by Silky saws. I carry as slightly larger fixed Blade version "Zubat" ziptied to my pack. Changed the way I look at for wood.
Hey DCA, so in the past I remember you suggesting the Boker Gulo Pro as a budget suggestion for the Sebenza. I think it would be great to do this with other iconic knives like the manual Strider, Olamic, Hinderer XM, CFK Rotten, Medford Praetorian, Spyderco Slyz Bowie, and/or Koenig Arius. You don't have to do all, but I hope you're up to the challenge. Thanks for always answering my questions.
Thank you thank you thank you for providing timestamps in the description box.
It's greatly, greatly appreciated and respected 👌👍🤘😊.
2 years later, here rewatching this KniFAQ!!! Interestingly enough, I happen to purchased now all new Lil Temperance 3 LW “K390”. I have many pocket knifes in various handles & blade material… But, really appreciate Lil T3 LW for the robust blade, under 3” making it legal in many areas. Excellent EDC for utility & Defensive tool.
Thank you for your answer. I got the mini bugout and I'm very pleased!
I just bought a new Mini Recon 1. It has the best example of GRN handles on a knife that I've ever seen. So much so that I thought the advertising for the handles as being GRN was incorrect. Overall, it's a really nice reincarnation of the original Mini Recon 1.
Entertaining as always. I look forward to your videos and no lie, I actually get a little bit excited when you drop a new one. Thanks for all the hard work!
Thoroughly entertaining and informative, as always. Thank you Mr. Andersen, And you too, Thomas.
That Cold Steel Mini Recon sure looks great. It looks like a great choice for the $68 price. CS does an awesome job with their heat treat on the Aus10-a. Great video once again DCA.
I do believe it will be my next purchase!
Another excellent video David and KC! Love your content! 👌🏼👊🏼
Excellent Advice on choosing blade steel.
Thanks for the info on the silky saw keep up the great work👍👍👍
For a square chisel tip, check out the Razel style. Crkt does a couple, and there are high end options as well.
I work in a greenhouse. I cut plastic irrigation lines, pallet straps, string, but also need clean cuts for plants. I don't always have time to clean and dry the knife before pocketing. I don't mind spending some money, but it's got to last. What do you recommend? I prefer folders, but a fixed blade may be better?
Depending on your budget I might lean towards S35VN (a bit more spendy, but spyderco does their Tenacious in 35VN for under $100) or 14C28N (more budget options). I would lean towards knives with washers rather than bearings because bearings can trap moisture.
Get any Nitro-V, N690, H1 or LC200N knives.
I think that both of the the Ka Bar Dozier Folding Hunter knives in both steels are the most bang for the buck in this genre. I own both because I will use them individually for different purposes. I may buy more for my little Grandchildren when the time is right.
Dear David C. Andersen,
I am a big fan of ceramic knives in my kitchen. Blades made of ceramic could be a really good alternative to corrosion-resistant steel. Can you think of other steel alternatives (tungsten carbide, titanium, polymers) that are used in folders / survival / diving knives? Is there a reason we don't see these materials used more often?
Can’t go wrong with a silky got the big boy and 2 pack size ones and there sweeeet! 😁
I have the Katanaboy in my truck and RV. It’s almost like carrying a chain saw except a whole lot more compact with no additional fuel or oil storage required. It’s unbelievable what it will quickly buck. Add a Fireside Friend and a good fixed blade and you’re good-to-go.
@@Doc.Holiday yes sir don’t leave the house without it and my grandfors axe and a fixed blade like f1 or the bark river gunny
DCA, Thomas, & Crew - really enjoy your presentations, and look forward to them every week now. So, I am a bit old school and have a modest collection of slip joints from the classic American manufacturers. I find most folks like me don't appreciate the quality and sophistication of modern knife designs, materials, and manufacturers - particularly knives made in Asia. How about a show contrasting some of the old classics with modern knives, or possibly a show just concentrating on slip joints. Another topic might be short blade knives, not just small size or small blade knives, but short blades. I find most of my daily EDC knife requirements can be met with a relatively short blade knife. Keep up the good work!
Your videos are addicting. Thanks for the content. I have a few titanium items in my edc and I’d like to complete it. I love combo edge knives and usually use spyderco but I’d like to join the flipper world.
That Spartan sheep's foot fixed blade is gorgeous! 😍😍
I really look forward to these KnifeCenter videos!
Idk if a modified warncliffe was the best example to show what a warncliffe is. I get what your saying though.
Seriously! That didn’t clarify anything or help at all. THIS kind of content is why people are still confused!
Should have shown a Spydecro Yojimbo, a prime example of a wharncliffe blade.
@@MFD00MTR33 I thought it was a imbo style blade, and they just added the yoj to be creative and funny.
Hey David, love your Nordsmith Canteen Knife any idea when it will be back in stock?
There is a *VERY* clear distinction between a sheepsfoot blade and a wharncliffe blade! A sheepsfoot blade is designed to minimize accidental stabbing. A wharncliffe blade is designed for tip cutting, such that the spine can be easily re-ground to re-point the tip. A knife that does not satisfy either of these two criteria is neither one! It is sad that so many knifemakers don't even know this.
By traditional profile definitions, both sheepsfoot and wharncliff have flat/straight (No belly) cutting edges. A sheepsfoot blade spine is continuously tapered toward the cutting edge from the ricasso to the drop toward the point at edge ( drop angle greater than 90degrees). A wharncliff spine is parallel to the cutting edge until the drop to the point at the edge. Both designs have unsharpened spines over their entire length.
Please tell us about the different blades for saws. I know some blades are for green wood while others are for dry/deadfallen wood. Which type of blade do I need for frozen deadfallen wood?. I'm in Burlington Vermont winters 🥶🌀❄️ with snow & subzero temps. It will snow, them melt then FREEZE. Deadfallen wood can be covered in ice & have ice throughout the wood. I'm looking at either a Silky saw or a folding bow saw. I know you sell Silky saws. Not sure if you sell Bacho or Awaga Boreal 15 or 21 saws.
Seems like the big push for better Edge retention is mainly due to people not knowing how to sharpen. Even 154 CM which is considered lower end now can provide years and years of service no problem if you take care of the edge. Stop it from time to time and then when you really need it sharpened, take off minimal blade material and repeat. Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of m390, s110/s90 etc but I think the average person is better off learning how to sharpen first. Seems like that works sharp precision adjust is a great place to start, makes it super super easy to get a consistent Edge and the diamond abrasives mean that it's going to be able to sharpen most anything. I mean lower end steals definitely feel like you have to sharpen them all the time but even at the entry level of higher edge retention... People will be fine. I know a lot of people dunk on Chris Reeve knives for using "only" s35vn but if you know how to sharpen, that blade's going to last a really long time and based on the target market, makes sense to have something that can be sharpened in the field easily
Can you do a skeleton knife Vid? Love them for when i'm on my mountain bike, clip them onto my backpack. And Yes, Sheath is a selling point.
Hey David! Can you recommend a hatchet? primary use would be chopping or splitting wood when camping. Looking for something under 24 inch handle, polymer or wood is fine!
Hi the sheepsfoot name came from herdsman using it for tending the hooves of their sheep. Not because it looks like sheep's foot. Saludos!
Another sheepsfoot survival knife option is the skrama from varusteleka.
I was a big fan of the cold steel spike scimitar was wondering if there is any alternatives being that it is so hard to find one since they discontinued it.
DCA rocks! How about a dedicated show to blade shapes and grinds? What they are best suited for, with high low options...
Great question about cost and blade steel. DCA nailed it when he used the law of diminishing returns on high end steel. I have nothing against people buying high end steels but I have found them to be unneeded in my life. If you want to drive a Ferrari to the grocery store go for it.
Love my Razel for a square blade, Edge on the end too.
Warncliffe blades are designed to have both a cutting edge and an accute point to puncture things. eg. cutting open sacks or bags. Sheepsfoot blades are almost the opposite. They are designed to have a cutting edge with almost no point so as to avoid unwanted damage. eg. working on animals or rescuing people. Of course there are now many 'hybrid' variations. Sheepsfoot for field/survival - no way due to lack of a usable tip. BTW Mr AndersEn - love your videos and advice!!
I have an older cold steel knife with a kraton handle. The handle is still intact but softening. I have heard of many kraton handles degrading due to solvent contamination, age and general exposure/use. Is there a preservative such as AmorAll that can be safely used to preserve a kraton knife handle?
You could call it a 'modified spear point blade shape' for that zt during the sheepsfoot and Warren Cliff segment.
What are some good budget button lock flippers?
What would you recommend for a relatively cheap fixed blade to learn to sharpen with? Ideally high-carbon steel, 1095 would be best. I have a few ESEEs and I'd like to learn on something I'm not afraid to mess up. Also, is there a reason I shouldn't sharpen an outdoors or hunting knife down to a 15 degree edge? I have the Chef's Choice trizor 15 for my kitchen knives and that is set up for a 15 degree edge.
Is there a difference in the D2 used in a sub $50 kershaw and a $500 Medford?
David... For an average day-to-day urban and RV camping mission what degree of edge bevel would you recommend for a given type of steel. I understand you cannot go down the list of each and every steel but please group them as best you can. It is also probably hard to not get into the weeds of specific mission tasks but please try and generalize, understanding that what I’m really interested in is degree of bevel as it relates to edge performance of various types of steel. For a given degree of bevel how would each group perform in terms of chipping, rolling and general wear? Hope that makes sense? Please disregard campfire preparation from the mission.
Hi DCA, I’m in the market for a new small/medium EDC/work fixed blade (3.5-4.5 inches). I’m trying to find a metal that has a good balance between edge retention and toughness, maybe leaning slightly toward toughness. I’d like a handle in the 4.5 inch range, budget is sub $300. Got any ideas where I could start looking?
I have to back up DCA on the hardest steels. I have the Manbug and the Endura both in K390, I've never touched either edge yet they both can still split hairs. It's phenomenal. I have blades in M390, 20CV, Cruwear/Z-Wear, as well as most of the upper grade steels (as opposed to top shelf like M390) and pretty much every mid and budget stainless and carbon. I notice no real difference between M390, 20CV, or K390. I care for my blades, so they don't rust, but if there's difference in performance I haven't seen it.
Hi David,
Since you are on the blade material topic, I have a question of actuality. There’s a new steel that has yet to be used on production knives: MagnaCut. What production knives, one folder and one fixed blade, would you like to see first with that new steel? Why?
Thanks!
For square blades, Gerber Flatiron is an alright budget option, while a Razel shape is more interesting. Spyderco makes the McBee, which I love a lot. CRKT makes a few Razel blades, and there's the expensive Graham Razel.
Hi, I'm an electrician from Germany, and I'm looking for a flipper knife with solid edge retention (gonna be stripping lots of wires, so the copper will wear out the blade) and a tanto style blade (sheepsfoot is also fine). The handle can't be too big since it will be living in my back pocket most of the time. Would really love to hear your recommendation!
The Syderco Para 3 is a fine EDC Knife. I own 3 Para 2s but I prefer the Para 3 cause I don't have really large hands. However I don't take anything away from the Para 2
I'm not much of a knife steel expert but I would think D2 is pretty high up there for bang for your buck
my experience is,, the edge will never get as razor fine as many of your other options, but it will be MUCH more durable than cheaper knives that seem initially sharper, (Milwaukee fastback is so sharp at 14$) and will do most of your tasks just fine, but never give you that butter feel, but will do heavy duty. I am carrying the dozier featured every day,,, and I also carry a box cutter,, I find that between the two I am covered, and the dozier is so light I don't even notice it even in my shirt pocket. but I don't think it's a replacement for razor sharp, it's just the best way to have blunt invincible that cuts.
@@tsmspace what angle do you sharpen your D2 blade at, and how thick is the blade stock? I've had some pretty dang slicey D2, never though of the steel itself as something that's held back cutting ability
@@BaritoneMonkey it's the stock bevel. I don't find that the steel retention is poor, i find that the very finest of edges are not the best on it,, and then if it's just beefy enough it's very durable. SO,, mine I just can't seem to get such a fine edge that it glides through paper the same as softer steel. but it doesn't result in reduced performance in any real task, and my other blade I was carrying got tore up, while this one did not.
@@tsmspace I have many different steels but D2 is my daily. I've been sharpening many years and I get my d2 hairsplitting sharp at 17 degrees....
I know a survival fixed knife with sheepsfoot blade, from an Italian company, but maybe it is non sold by Knifecenter: it is the Extrema Ratio Task.
Sheep's foot: spine and edge are parallel. Lamb's foot: blade gets narrower toward the tip. Ram's foot: blade gets broader toward the tip. Most "modified" warncliffe and sheep's foot blades look like drop or clip point to me - I think of the straight edge as definitive.
Hi Mr. Andersen. A few months ago, I received a kizer lieb and I absolutely love it. I love the blade shape, the action especially on washers, the feel of the micarta. I just wish it was a little bigger. Anything you can suggest as a slightly larger lieb?
DCA, I'm looking for a recommendation for a pair of work knives. I usually pocket a fixed blade for heavier tasks and carry a folder for cutting zip ties in tight places inside machines. I'm looking for knives with a tough steel and cap the price at $400 for the pair, thanks!
I got you David, Light sabers as cannon in starwars ( not the torch hacksmith made)are more fictional that zombies. Fungus infections and make some bugs exhibit "zombie" characteristics. So technically you can see in real life a zombie but with light sabers, it's impossible due to energy density issues.
David, have learned so much from FAQs and new knives episodes. Have had to clear a lot of brush lately.. planning to get a silky saw, but may still need an axe for some small trees. Not looking for a tactical axe, but a good axe to chop down small dead trees (no more than a foot in diameter). What would you recommend (don't say chainsaw)? Don
What criteria do you all use to finally retire a knife and what do you do with your old beat up knives? I have a Benchmade Nimravus that I have basically really beat down for a couple years, but it is hard to say goodbye, so I made it my work on the farm knife. I have 3 Nimravus and a bunch of other knives, what do people do with their old knives?
I really like your Q&A segments.
I would like to ask, if is there a locking folding pocket knife that you can close and deploy without using your thumb? just happened that my thumb is injured 😉
Spyderco compression lock, double detent locks, or the shark lock.
Spyderco slipjoints, the UKPK and the Urban.
Hello DCA, a question on knife storage:
Bought a Sack Ups knife roll to contain the collection, but a few knives are too wide to fit. Is there a comparable option (not a hard case; budget friendly; bulk storage) that can accommodate a Code 4, Medium Voyager, and such?
I use my knives mostly for making drinks. I want it to be foldable, highly water-resistant and tough enough to cut foil from bottles. It also needs to slice well for garnishes. Can you recommend a knife for these purposes?
Hi David, I just wanna ask about the Civivi button lock Elementum when it's gonna be available on the website? or that won't happen and need to pre-order it ? especially if I want to by some stuff more and gonna be shipped overseas.
Thanks in advance
Preordering will hold your place in line. Eventually once CIVIVI's supply catches up to demand and we clear our backorders it will be more regularly available.. -DCA
A question for a future episode: What would you recommend for a good hunting/camping fixed blade that could be carried scout carry? Specifically a good quality knife. I am thinking something like an ESEE 4 but maybe a different sheath (as kydex seems like it would be uncomfortable in scout carry)….
What's the most expensive knife you own that you use on the regular (non-safe queen)?
Crkt Razel is a square or box cutter or folding chisel shape in small or large I believe
Hey DCA, really nice and interesting show. I bought a sh bugout a while ago and I'm happy with it but I recently found out that there are clones out there. Could you please tell me how can I tell the difference? Thank you and keep up the good work!
Hard to say without examining. One way to avoid them is only buying from authorized dealers - avoid places like Amazon or Ebay since there is no way to verify in those cases. -DCA
Hello Mr Andersen! Where is the difference between a big knife and a machete stands for you? I have the Condor mini Duku in mind and cannot put it in a clear category. Also, do you have other similar options? Greetings from Switzerland (not Sweden)
If you don't mind putting your own handle on Lauri Knives a Finnish company makes a progressive tempered blade where the edge is HRC 63 hard then tempered back to 53 for the body of the knife. They'll hold an edge for quite a while. Wood carvers like them.
Always top notch content!! Love seeing so many knives in every video! By the way who picks the background music??
5:47 i was expecting a flinch but you got licky lol
Howzit Mr Anderson. I have a VERY important question. What cut resistant gloves can you recommend for handling a knife. I am looking for gloves that I can use in the wild whilst bushcrafting and whittling. Would like to reduce the risk of injury whilst in the bushveld, since I am hours away from the nearest clinic.
What would you say is the best SOG multitool for edc. I carry the power pint everyday and I don’t think I could go without it
I am looking for a lightweight folder the same size and weight as a Spyderco Delica 4 , for less cost. Is there a knife that is similar in size and weight for a lower price around $50.00 or less.
You should have used a Spydecro Yojimbo as an example instead of the "modified" one on the ZT. To me that ZT is a drop point or a modified spear point rather than a modified wharncliffe. Wharnies have a straight edge and a straight drop from the spine to edge.
Good day David C Andersen,
What is your opinion on the Bestech 50 dollars D2 flippers? What I hear is good but I don't hear or read about them often. Are they a forgetten gem of deliberately unmentioned in the knife world. Been doubting about the Texel, Barracuda or scimitar.
Big thnx upfront and have a great day.
texel all day. it's flown under the radar but the action makes it a heavy hitter amongst others.
I'm still waiting for the k390 para 3 lightweight SPYDERCO!!! C'mon DCA u tell them maybe they'll listen to you!
Im definitely interested in K390 just not in endura or delica at this point. Para 3 and Manix 👍
I've fully proceeded a deer with my griptilan with a sheepsfoot blade and it was easier to skin with for me
Plenty of belly on the Griptilian sheepsfoot blade, which is more of a modified sheepsfoot. I think the tip of that knife itself behaves more like a drop point. Love it! -DCA
DCA, can you suggest an easy to open and close pocket knife for an 86yr old who can no longer open his old school slip joint? I just tried the Spyderco Roadie. He can open it but unfortunately, he can't close it. Thanks! PS. My dad has dementia and can't use most types of locks.
I would be hard pressed to be convinced that any other steel than NitroV is best dolar for dolar
Hey DCA, do glassbreakers on knives actually work? And if so, which manufacturers do glass breakers on their knives the best?
Duuuuuuuuddddeeeeeee I love the intro so much 😂😂😂😂😂 what a zinger
How different are The same steels between different companies? Benchmade D2 vs Ontario rat D2?
Anyone like the Becker BK11? Kinda want the bottle opener lol, of course the knife as well
What are the best things to modify a spyderco para 3 with? Just picked one up and looking to mod it.
So I have the month of the knife club membership and I got a BROUS BLADES THREAT folder and It is 1 of 600 made and I was wondering what your thoughts were about it?
ALEX LOL....the spoon is to remove the bloodline and membrane scraping along the spine after gutting
Hey DCA, I’m looking for a high quality bushcraft or pack fixed blade in Elmax. Any recommendations?
The question at like 13:50, was he asking about a knife with like a scraper on the end of the blade instead of a pronounced tip?
Would like to see a review on the Bradford guardian 3.5 and the best steel to get it in. at this point I think there is like 4 or 5 different steels you can get them in.
Hey David, next time you have fixed blades, I'd like to see an Atac
Thank you.
I want to get the boker strike but I'm left handed. Is there a lefty option?
Hello, I am looking to getting my first fixed blade with a horizontal carry sheat , with a drop point /spear point and thick handle under 4 inches . Any recommendations?
What about catra testing, why is that not a metric for edge retention
Jimmy the Gent: "The HOOF."
Serrations also tend to help the knife's plain blade from over use.
Thanks for the explanation