I’m so glad he confirmed NOT to cut the main terminal off to fill in each cordon before allowing it to grow upright. I’ve been letting mine grow and seeing success for several years. If I have a cordon not cooperating, I can make a notch or graft a bud to fill it in.
A lot of things are possible only on TH-cam. I watched your video on High Density Orchards. Every high density I have seen ends up in regrets. On TH-cam, however, they are the most profitable and give the highest yields.
Susan, I train my grapes on a structure 3 meters wide using steel posts and a rigid tube (EMT) to prevent the posts from leaning together, a 12 Meter cable is not practical for a backyard to set bushels of apples on eight trees. Another option in the U.S. is Cattle panels/Hog Panels is becoming popular as a quick fence in a grid pattern.. I ordered (Cortland, Pink lady, and Sweet 16) apple trees on EMLA M26 to make a privacy hedge with different harvest dates; as Dr Perry indicated there is more work involved to retrain a tree to a fence. One of the problems I encountered is the nursery does not identify their rootstock to retail customers and there is a lot of confusion between the M9 and M111 dwarfing size as one is a 25% tree and the other is an 80% tree.
Glad you liked the interview! I’m sure I’ll have him back one day. We are lucky to have him as a monthly guest in the monthly meetup group that I have for my students at learn.orchardpeople.com.
In the first 5 minutes, he states that you may be best off removing a tree that is too vigorous. This is not always necessary. You can attempt to reduce vigor by girdling the tree. In dormant season, use a saw or chainsaw to make a horizontal cut in the trunk about 6”-12” above ground - cutting 25% to 50% through the trunk. For a very overly vigorous tree - then, 12”-18” above the first cut, make the same cut on the opposite side of trunk. The number of these cuts, the depth of these cuts, and the spacing between the cuts all contribute to the level of impact. This is done in commercial apple tree production.
I would love images added to explain the Lorette system as you're talking; or the umbrella system you talked about 25:29 as I can't be sure what I'm picturing is accurate. Thanks for this incredible video. :)
Those are great suggestions! This year I hope to write my next book and it’s going to be about fruit tree pruning, so I’ll be sure to keep your suggestions in mind and make sure there’s images of those things in the book. Also, now, when I host new podcasts, there are always images in them because I agree with you, it’s easier to visualize when you have pictures. In any case, I’m really glad you enjoyed the video!
So did Ron say Semi Dwarfing rootstock is too vigorous for good espalier and you really need dwarfing rootstocks? What about when soil conditions might not be suitable for a particular rootstock. Thus would a semi dwarfing be OK since the soil and local growing conditions would also contribute to limiting the tree growth habit.
Great question! There are a number of ways to keep fruit trees small. One of the most important is dwarfing rootstocks. But other factors can further slow growth like soil and conditions, root competition etc. Does that make sense?
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Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us Mr. Perry!
Agreed!
Great listen. Good job and thanks for the information.
So glad it was helpful!
I guess its best to train all branches below the horizontal.. fruit begets fruit. Love it. Excellent informative videos. Thank you both!!
So glad it’s helpful!!!
I’m so glad he confirmed NOT to cut the main terminal off to fill in each cordon before allowing it to grow upright. I’ve been letting mine grow and seeing success for several years. If I have a cordon not cooperating, I can make a notch or graft a bud to fill it in.
Good to hear your experience with that. Thanks for sharing!
I am a brand new fruit tree experimenter.I learned so much by listening and I Truly truly appreciated everything that was said today thank you.
So glad it was helpful!
A lot of things are possible only on TH-cam. I watched your video on High Density Orchards. Every high density I have seen ends up in regrets. On TH-cam, however, they are the most profitable and give the highest yields.
Have you personally had a bad experience with high density plantings? I’d love to hear about it. Do you now grow central leader trees?
Susan, I train my grapes on a structure 3 meters wide using steel posts and a rigid tube (EMT) to prevent the posts from leaning together, a 12 Meter cable is not practical for a backyard to set bushels of apples on eight trees. Another option in the U.S. is Cattle panels/Hog Panels is becoming popular as a quick fence in a grid pattern.. I ordered (Cortland, Pink lady, and Sweet 16) apple trees on EMLA M26 to make a privacy hedge with different harvest dates; as Dr Perry indicated there is more work involved to retrain a tree to a fence. One of the problems I encountered is the nursery does not identify their rootstock to retail customers and there is a lot of confusion between the M9 and M111 dwarfing size as one is a 25% tree and the other is an 80% tree.
Hog panels are a great idea!
Thank you!!
You're very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it.
@@Orchardpeople and I bought his book!!
@@dianehelgaduncan4055 Wonderful!
Any chance you’re going to do a follow up to this interview?
Glad you liked the interview! I’m sure I’ll have him back one day. We are lucky to have him as a monthly guest in the monthly meetup group that I have for my students at learn.orchardpeople.com.
In the first 5 minutes, he states that you may be best off removing a tree that is too vigorous. This is not always necessary. You can attempt to reduce vigor by girdling the tree. In dormant season, use a saw or chainsaw to make a horizontal cut in the trunk about 6”-12” above ground - cutting 25% to 50% through the trunk. For a very overly vigorous tree - then, 12”-18” above the first cut, make the same cut on the opposite side of trunk. The number of these cuts, the depth of these cuts, and the spacing between the cuts all contribute to the level of impact. This is done in commercial apple tree production.
Fantastic suggestions! Thanks …
Great show - thank you!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
great show thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I would love images added to explain the Lorette system as you're talking; or the umbrella system you talked about 25:29 as I can't be sure what I'm picturing is accurate. Thanks for this incredible video. :)
Those are great suggestions! This year I hope to write my next book and it’s going to be about fruit tree pruning, so I’ll be sure to keep your suggestions in mind and make sure there’s images of those things in the book. Also, now, when I host new podcasts, there are always images in them because I agree with you, it’s easier to visualize when you have pictures. In any case, I’m really glad you enjoyed the video!
So did Ron say Semi Dwarfing rootstock is too vigorous for good espalier and you really need dwarfing rootstocks? What about when soil conditions might not be suitable for a particular rootstock. Thus would a semi dwarfing be OK since the soil and local growing conditions would also contribute to limiting the tree growth habit.
Great question! There are a number of ways to keep fruit trees small. One of the most important is dwarfing rootstocks. But other factors can further slow growth like soil and conditions, root competition etc. Does that make sense?