I think you using modern alternatives to dangerous chemicals is a very responsible thing to do. You are keeping history alive with your work, but we should also be able to enjoy history safely
I think using safe and modern alternatives for those pigments that are toxic or dangerous is a totally wise decision. You are still mixing the pigments in the historically accurate way, that's what counts.
Shields are definitely an under exhibited part of ancient tech. The layers, the materials and the way they’re all joined is all used for specific natural properties.
You can sink the fabric into water and skin glue for some hours (or a day) before placing it, it will be much easier to place and then add a layer of glue to fix it. That's how i do it for painting on panel and it works
Okay, so I barely comment ever, but I stumbled upon this video and just went like duuuuudee. When I was a teenager I was fascinated by shields and their construction, but with time I forgot about it, now I find out there are people building them. Instant subscribe
Advice for tendons: after soaking them extremely thoroughly, take a very smooth faced hammer or planed smooth wooden mallet and a smooth anvil or planed hardwood board and pound the soaked tendon between them. This separates the fibres somewhat and let’s you twist the tendon as a whole to control flexibility and add strength.
It is so rewarding to stumble across content like this from time to time. I quite liked the knowledge, the will to impart it, the skill and the presentation. It is like I am sitting down with a friend and being talked through the process.
@@TheShieldery that'd be 950 euro per soldier! Which'd be roughly 6 million! Bah! Back in my day ye blacksmiths would forge weapons and shields for free. darn this capitalistic economy. Jokes aside, I don't think I'm old enough to be making such financial decisions such as buying a 950 euro shield. 😅 thanks for the offer~
6:44 From years of experience in making blank canvas (I know it isn't the same thing, but I use almost the same materials), I can say that is a lot easier working when the fabric has been previously submerged in water. The fabric then stretches a bit , it doesn't take much glue, and is more flexible.
indeed! but then you got some wrinkles which you have to massage out, which is still simpler then what I did in this video though XD. I did something similar in the video about the schongauer paveses :)
I alwasy smirk a little when I'm thinking about distant future. Some archeologist in 2000 years will discover this shield, carbondate it and be bamboozeld. "What the fuck happened 2000 years ago?? They conquered the moon but still were fighting with swords and shields??"
Very interesting. It occurs to me that the medieval shield maker probably had a tool to adhere the material to the sub-strate. I suspect horn would work when used in the same manner as the gilder who would use dog tooth to burnish applied gold.
I find this quite amazing, just the first sentence of this video I own a business that makes medieval shields, it just gives you hope, that there are people and businesses that can keep the craft alive.
Ģreetings from Australia. You've done a pretty good job. I know nothing about shields but I admire how you copied from a real object and replicated the shield. Good work
At this point I believe I've watched this 20 times and I'm currently working on my own Pavise using your techniques! Woodwork is almost done and it's looking way better than I thought I could accomplish. I just noticed how little views you get and I just wanted to comment and say you should keep it up, this particular video is killer and I'd love to see more ( not that I have any problems with the others but this one is something else). I love the humour, the detail in your process is great and not tiering not to mention very educational and helpful. Greetings from Greece!
This is a shield of the crossbowmen of Pavia, it was left attached to the back, when the crossbowman reloaded the weapon, he turned with his back towards the enemy,In this way the enemy's counter-fire hit the Pavia shield. The Pavia crossbowmen were mercenaries who fought throughout Europe.
yes that's one of the theories; what it doesn't explain is the nose, the large staple behind the nose and the center grip. I think it also got set up on the gound in some way. Then the crossbowman can reload behind it and only peak above quickley when shooting. The legs are also protected and caus the dude is sitting, he makes a smaller target. It was used in most of europe btw. this specific piece was made in Bohemia, as you can see on the museums page which I linked in the description :) .
This is amazing! My favourite irony is building a pavise for protection, using poisonous cinnabar and azurite. I must commend you on your attention to historical accuracy and detail.
Bohemian pavise shields was often very colorful, remnants of hussite war's Wich can be seen even in depiction of Szlacht Von wenzenbach where Bohemians are depicted with pavise shields even in renaissance era 😂
Love it! I go back and forth on using Ti white in my projects. TiO2 does occur naturally in the crystal known as Rutile. Most white pigments appear clear in the tree resin ethanol varnish medium that I make, so I find myself having to use Ti sometimes . Egg tempura might give nore options. Would Chinese white (made from shells) work? And fillers/extenders like Barite, Chalk, Talc, Kaolin Clay are white or white-ish in water based mediuns. Nihonga or Japanese style painting uses skin glue as the binder. They use cinnabar without too much caution (not suggesting you do the same), and they use a white usually made from shells. I finish electric guitars with modern looking finished using all natural and historical materials. I actually just made a pickguard using rabbit skin glue and linnen over paper (sounds just like your shield when you scratch or tap it) ... historical plastic!
Thank you! I think I'm gonna use/try eggshell-white the next time; the problem with all those "white" pigemnts is, that they are not truly white or they aren't opaque enough and caus of that they adapt a lot of the binding agents color. Then you also got the Problem that a lot of the "whiteness" comes from the surface roughthness, like with sugar dolomite or glass sand - when mixed with the binding agent the light doesn't get reflected by the surface anymore and they get kinda translucent.... :(
I definitely would sacrifice historical accuracy to avoid toxic materials, and I'm used to spending big bucks for the good stuff, like Albions and Tod's Workshop scabbards. It also might help with international shipping in some cases.
This just got recommended to me today, and I love this! Your personality is great and how informative you are while being entertaining. I think with the lead paint, having one without it, while not being authentic is still best to be safe
Subscribed! I'm glad YT suggested me your channel. The shield is beautiful, the care you have for authenticity and pointing out where you deviate from it for a modern technique or material even a small bit is worthy of praise. The enjoyment and passion in what you do stand out a lot!
spectacular! to my patina-loving eye these kind of things always look too garish and bright, but of course that is how they would have looked when new. it makes me think of ancient greek sculpture & architecture, and how it all would have originally looked, painted in bright colours. must have been quite amazing. btw, there is another one of these in much better condition, not sure where.
"Now its time for a montage, or as we say in Germany, Montageschnitt. And I think that's beautiful."" Also it is beautiful to someone keeping old arts and skills alive, because without it, then history would be llost.
In the book "On Divers Arts" by Theophilus, he writes about preparing painting canvases with gesso, and in between coats of gesso, he advised using a scraper (Ziehklingen?) to smooth the surfaces
It took the youtube algorithm 8 months to get me here, but by God, I'm glad it got me here at last! Incredible work! Sidenote: I'm glad you used modern pigments, please don't touch lead :)
Stickers are a solution to your problem. Just attach the sticker next to the price that says: "Don't lick the shield". That's the world we live in :D Amazing job by the way!
As an oil painter, many of the traditional pigments are HIGHLY toxic, like cadmium, chrome, and cobalt among others. It’s never stopped me from getting my hands dirty when I need to. So I think as long as you know and accept the risks it should be fine!
*OH MAN THAT IS BEAUTIFUL* the only thing I would say is to lengthen the revel sequence cos I got TH-cam promo boxes all over it and could not see it properly
Incredible work! Using period pigments is just crazy! I have plans to weave another rattan shield soon, and I plan to paint it with an authentic design, but I don't think I am up for using real cinnabar and orpiment like the original recipe calls for.
You have no idea how much I love this. Here is a tip.... two tips. Use more glue when gluing the Hessisches Tuch. Pre-soak the cloth to make it more malleable. Now you have to wait for it to soak up glue before you can get around corners. Yes, messy and hard, fast work but I think it solves a lot of problems. And use a roller to get the glue worked in to the fabric and fill all those holes. It will surely cut back on de-lamination and prevent those pin holes in your gesso.
Thank you! :) If I pre soak the fabrik, it gets folds which are very difficult to massage out and the glue won't soak in that good and in addition will be thinned down in the pores where I want it to be. I'm afraid the roller would bring even more air bubbles into the glue becaus it's sticky character creats a high surface tension, which can trap air quickly, especially when cooling down. :( Thanks for the Ideas though! Have you yourself actually tried those suggestions on a similar piece (open woofen fabrik and hide glue) bevore? If yes, I take back my criticism XD
@@TheShieldery LOL. What you do is unique so OBVIOUSLY I did not. But I see a lot of resemblance with laminating using for instance resin. Like they do in boat building: th-cam.com/video/-2sh9hrIyHQ/w-d-xo.html Not the same but it sure looks similar so technique may cross over. You may be right about the roller getting sticky but if you keep reheating the roller in a bath? On that note. Did you ever try an Iron (laundry iron) to reactivate the glue to get bubbles to stick again after you popped them? Maybe you did. I'm a but fuzzy, I need to rewatch video's I have seen. I watched them in not chronological order so..... No criticism implied. Just spitballing here
Amazing ^^ About the handles, I've seen on many medieval shields the use of clinch nails: you first drill from the front a tiny hole that allows you to not destroy the layers you've put on, hammer in the nail with the flat side perpendicular to the wood fibers (otherwise you split it open), position the leather handle, hammer the nail to make an almost 90° angle and hammer it back in the wood. You then apply a second layer of fabric on the front to hide the nails and reinforce the shield. It is then impossible to pull the handle off. If when drilling the holes the fabric gets off, you can just add glue to put it back but there is a really small risk it happens. You could also drill all the holes before you apply the fabric and pierce it then with a tool, safer but longer.
Thank you! :) I tried that reaplying_a_second_layer_ontop_of_the_nails and first: we found not a singel shield where this was done and second is my theory why - (caus I tried it once): It's impossible to glue the fabrik/ rawhide to a metal surface like the nails, so you take the risk of a not connectet popint thats large enough to rip a hole in the hole surface when stroken off. And that point is additionally raised from the other parts of the surface, so it will happen quite fast. I do the 90 degrees thing quite often and it usually leavs a clear mark, which you can't see on the museums piece - therefor it wasn't done on this Pavese. Thank's for that suggestion, I thought about adressing that in my video about the large Normann shield, but it led to faar from the main topic, so I didn't.....
@@TheShieldery (I am movementsciences36, this account is for a non profit association about medieval reanactment) Interesting indeed. Though I must disagree about no shield with this method. I've been to many Europeean museums (I'm European), read researched reviews, and even just by researching on internet I've found many shields from museums with clinch nails going through from the front. Usually the head of the nails are hidden under a fabric or in the dark painting. Sometimes they are also left visible. You can make the top of the nails head rough by liming and engraving points/lines: it helps the glue to stick on it. Anyway, we could talk for hours about it as it is enthralling.
As a mega shield nerd who has long been in the HEMA / Historical Martial Arts sphere, my algorithm has lead me to the right place. Time to binge your content. +1 Subscribe.
If you ever feel like your life isn't hard enough you should checkout the very few Aztec feather shields that are still around and try to recreate one, I know one of them is in the museum of Vienna
What an amazing and authentic replica, and so enjoyable to watch the process of its creation! You did such a good job on it, I really think it turned out great. I'm surprised your channel hasn't got more subscribers, because you've produced very entertaining and educational content here.
Good job. This is a prime example of the stereotypical German (or modern times) precision vs medieval approach of "functional and good enough". If you make one shield for yourself you can play with details. I am fairly certain medieval craftsmen who needed to equip thousands of guys and did not use a lot of electrical appliances were perfectly OK with minor blemishes😀
super cool video, definitely going to try my hand at shield making. not gonna lie i love germans swearing in english, super funny to me, please keep doing it!!
I'm unsure why youtube recommended this video (it's super random) But I'm sincerely glad. It was a delight to watch the process you went through with this shield and while I'll probably never attempt anything like this it was super cool hearing the why's and how's related to everything you were doing. Thank you for sharing (:
great video! i think using modern pigments is fine as long as the intent is the same, and given how much effort you go into making the rest accurate i'm sure its fine! one thing though: i wish the reveal was longer! i wanted more time to look at the shield! this is an old video though so ill have to check out your newest ones :)
Zinnober enthält zwar Quecksilber, ist als Verbindung aber sehr stabil und daher ungiftig, vor Allem in gebundenem Zustand wie als aufgetragene Farbe. Aber Atemschutz ist nie verkehrt beim Anmischen der Farbmittel ^^
Man I gotta say. This was an absolute pleasure to watch! I love the historical aspects you drew and the explanation of each technique used. That and the end product was just beautiful! Well done ❤ +1 sub
I find it a bit funny the Pavese is to my knowledge the precursor of the modern riot shield. So oddly enough, the design is still in use hundreds of years later. Albeit with some changes for modernity. Regardless though, it turned out to be a beautiful shield. Great job!
Great video. The shield you made is gorgeous. Thank you for showing us the proces. I'd like to make something like this in miniature for the armoury in my 1/12 scale Castle Tower dollhouse I'm building at the moment. Thanks! Edit: And I subscribed of course!!
I just found your channel Andre, and I'm very impressed- this pavise in particular is brilliant. I have some advice for dealing with areas of canvas or parchment that don't seem to have adhered properly: you can take advantage of the fact that hide glue will soften with a bit of water and heat rather than just adding more glue; use a utility knife to open any air pockets, put in a little water with a small paint brush, and use a heat gun to warm the glue until it's sticky and then just press the canvas down again. The glue is much more sticky when just re-heated than it is when fresh, and it will hold quickly- much moreso than fresh glue will. Also, the museum page doesn't name any of the pigments- did you check with them and they told you the red was cinnabar? I'd have thought red ochre would be a more likely and non-toxic choice .
they got so many paveses, I doupt they tested the pigments of more then one or two. When the owner spend so much on the Azurite pigment, I assume he also would have gone for cinnabar. There are a lot of ochres, the ones of I know would be way more brownish after 500 years and all the dirt. So the red is way to vibrant for Ochre ( I assume). Yo ucan see an even darker red right on the edge, which looks more like an earth pigment.
Honestly im much more scared of the cinnibar than the white lead. White lead is pretty harmless unless you sand it or have chunks of it flake off. Cinnebar is at least moderatly permiable through your skin and slightly volatile.
Gerade das erste Video von dir hier gesehen. Und ich bin begeistert... deine Leidenschaft und deine ehrliche und tolle Art machen es wirklich spannend dir zuzusehen. Außerdem komme ich aus der unmittelbaren nähe wo du dein Werk schlussendlich vorgestellt hast. Vielleicht bist du ja nicht weit ansässig. Und zum anderen bin ich Schreiner und Restaurator. Dadurch ist mir der genannte Handel für Pigmente natürlich geläufig und kann bestätigen was du sagtest. Außerdem dein Umgang mit den verwendeten Materialien und der infoinput sind bemerkenswert für "dein hobby" , wenn ich dass so sagen darf. Alles in allem ein ganz tolles Video, sympathischer Mann und ganz tolle Arbeit die mich wirklich beeindruckt hat. Vielleicht läuft man sich ja mal über den Weg. Abo und like sind sicher! Werde mir noch viel mehr von dir ansehen. Beste Grüße aus Nürnberg.
I think you using modern alternatives to dangerous chemicals is a very responsible thing to do. You are keeping history alive with your work, but we should also be able to enjoy history safely
I think using safe and modern alternatives for those pigments that are toxic or dangerous is a totally wise decision. You are still mixing the pigments in the historically accurate way, that's what counts.
All that work and effort and art put into a piece of wood meant to be beaten to shreds. You have to admire the old world for that mentality.
It might have been a parade or display shield, most of the ornate pieces out there are.
Aye, nowadays all the effort goes into beating your wood without any care given to the preparation.
All that work and effort and art put into a piece of wood meant to KEEP YOU ALIVE AND UNINJURED.
That I would consider to be a genuine and museum quality replica, bravo.
i love running into random craftchannels and for some reason whenever I do there is a 50% chance its a german guy.
great work and love from berlin
Shields are definitely an under exhibited part of ancient tech. The layers, the materials and the way they’re all joined is all used for specific natural properties.
You can sink the fabric into water and skin glue for some hours (or a day) before placing it, it will be much easier to place and then add a layer of glue to fix it. That's how i do it for painting on panel and it works
Okay, so I barely comment ever, but I stumbled upon this video and just went like duuuuudee. When I was a teenager I was fascinated by shields and their construction, but with time I forgot about it, now I find out there are people building them.
Instant subscribe
This "find imperfection by sound" technic is a perfect tool for so many things. Also, you know, you are pretty awesome
I never had a.y interest for this subject before .
But your enthusiasm is contagious😊
Advice for tendons: after soaking them extremely thoroughly, take a very smooth faced hammer or planed smooth wooden mallet and a smooth anvil or planed hardwood board and pound the soaked tendon between them. This separates the fibres somewhat and let’s you twist the tendon as a whole to control flexibility and add strength.
Noted Captain! That sounds like a very good idea, I'll try it in a view videos :)
That there are people like you keeping old arts and skills alive fills me with joy.
Beautiful piece, well done!
Keep up the good work, you're doing humanity a service by recreating history.
It is so rewarding to stumble across content like this from time to time.
I quite liked the knowledge, the will to impart it, the skill and the presentation. It is like I am sitting down with a friend and being talked through the process.
beautiful. Its a piece of art still
Cinnabar is a mercury bearing mineral. If you heat it (don't actually heat it) , mercury will come out. Excellent work on the shield by the way.
As a geologist, you never, ever lick cinnabar
But please, enjoy eating your way across a sedimentary basin.
I thought the decision to not use lead carbonate but be happy with mercury sulfide was a bit odd too. Of the two the mercury is way more dangerous.
Can you make it heat stable somehow?
Fantastic work! Now go and do it again 5999 more times, for all the other soldiers in the army!
You want to place an order? XD
@@TheShielderyhow much?
@@thekaelixchamber the direct piece from the video allready got sold, but if you want to place an order, I'd charge 950€+shipping.
@@TheShieldery that'd be 950 euro per soldier! Which'd be roughly 6 million! Bah! Back in my day ye blacksmiths would forge weapons and shields for free. darn this capitalistic economy. Jokes aside, I don't think I'm old enough to be making such financial decisions such as buying a 950 euro shield. 😅 thanks for the offer~
@@thekaelixchamberyou're welcome :) . If you want, you can built one yourself now :)
6:44 From years of experience in making blank canvas (I know it isn't the same thing, but I use almost the same materials), I can say that is a lot easier working when the fabric has been previously submerged in water. The fabric then stretches a bit , it doesn't take much glue, and is more flexible.
indeed! but then you got some wrinkles which you have to massage out, which is still simpler then what I did in this video though XD. I did something similar in the video about the schongauer paveses :)
I alwasy smirk a little when I'm thinking about distant future. Some archeologist in 2000 years will discover this shield, carbondate it and be bamboozeld. "What the fuck happened 2000 years ago?? They conquered the moon but still were fighting with swords and shields??"
This is incredible, you are an amazing craftsman.
That is awesome man!
Very interesting. It occurs to me that the medieval shield maker probably had a tool to adhere the material to the sub-strate. I suspect horn would work when used in the same manner as the gilder who would use dog tooth to burnish applied gold.
I find this quite amazing, just the first sentence of this video I own a business that makes medieval shields, it just gives you hope, that there are people and businesses that can keep the craft alive.
Ģreetings from Australia. You've done a pretty good job. I know nothing about shields but I admire how you copied from a real object and replicated the shield. Good work
At this point I believe I've watched this 20 times and I'm currently working on my own Pavise using your techniques! Woodwork is almost done and it's looking way better than I thought I could accomplish. I just noticed how little views you get and I just wanted to comment and say you should keep it up, this particular video is killer and I'd love to see more ( not that I have any problems with the others but this one is something else). I love the humour, the detail in your process is great and not tiering not to mention very educational and helpful. Greetings from Greece!
This is a shield of the crossbowmen of Pavia, it was left attached to the back, when the crossbowman reloaded the weapon, he turned with his back towards the enemy,In this way the enemy's counter-fire hit the Pavia shield. The Pavia crossbowmen were mercenaries who fought throughout Europe.
yes that's one of the theories;
what it doesn't explain is the nose, the large staple behind the nose and the center grip. I think it also got set up on the gound in some way. Then the crossbowman can reload behind it and only peak above quickley when shooting. The legs are also protected and caus the dude is sitting, he makes a smaller target.
It was used in most of europe btw. this specific piece was made in Bohemia, as you can see on the museums page which I linked in the description :) .
@TheShieldery in addition, there are several forms where the foot is replaced with a spike, and many show evidence of being set into the ground.
This is amazing!
My favourite irony is building a pavise for protection, using poisonous cinnabar and azurite. I must commend you on your attention to historical accuracy and detail.
It looks more like a distraction than a sheild, like if someone cherges you and you pop that up they be like ohhh what a nice, bam fight over.
Bohemian pavise shields was often very colorful, remnants of hussite war's Wich can be seen even in depiction of Szlacht Von wenzenbach where Bohemians are depicted with pavise shields even in renaissance era 😂
Genial! Wahnsinn, was da an Abreit drin steckt, selbst wenn man moderne Maschinen zur Verfügung hat. Danke für das Video!
Love it! I go back and forth on using Ti white in my projects. TiO2 does occur naturally in the crystal known as Rutile.
Most white pigments appear clear in the tree resin ethanol varnish medium that I make, so I find myself having to use Ti sometimes .
Egg tempura might give nore options. Would Chinese white (made from shells) work? And fillers/extenders like Barite, Chalk, Talc, Kaolin Clay are white or white-ish in water based mediuns.
Nihonga or Japanese style painting uses skin glue as the binder. They use cinnabar without too much caution (not suggesting you do the same), and they use a white usually made from shells.
I finish electric guitars with modern looking finished using all natural and historical materials.
I actually just made a pickguard using rabbit skin glue and linnen over paper (sounds just like your shield when you scratch or tap it) ... historical plastic!
Thank you!
I think I'm gonna use/try eggshell-white the next time; the problem with all those "white" pigemnts is, that they are not truly white or they aren't opaque enough and caus of that they adapt a lot of the binding agents color. Then you also got the Problem that a lot of the "whiteness" comes from the surface roughthness, like with sugar dolomite or glass sand - when mixed with the binding agent the light doesn't get reflected by the surface anymore and they get kinda translucent.... :(
Das Schild ist wirklich wunderschön geworden! Gute Arbeit!
I definitely would sacrifice historical accuracy to avoid toxic materials, and I'm used to spending big bucks for the good stuff, like Albions and Tod's Workshop scabbards.
It also might help with international shipping in some cases.
Great content, keep up the good work!
This just got recommended to me today, and I love this! Your personality is great and how informative you are while being entertaining. I think with the lead paint, having one without it, while not being authentic is still best to be safe
That is excellent work both in craftsmanship and artistry.
This is honsetly so impressive! I loved to watch the painting part. Can’t wait for the next Video
IT IS VERY GOOD WORK. HAVE A GOOD WEEK AND GOD BLESS AMEN.
Subscribed! I'm glad YT suggested me your channel. The shield is beautiful, the care you have for authenticity and pointing out where you deviate from it for a modern technique or material even a small bit is worthy of praise. The enjoyment and passion in what you do stand out a lot!
spectacular! to my patina-loving eye these kind of things always look too garish and bright, but of course that is how they would have looked when new. it makes me think of ancient greek sculpture & architecture, and how it all would have originally looked, painted in bright colours. must have been quite amazing. btw, there is another one of these in much better condition, not sure where.
Very enjoyable, and interesting. Thanks.
Ich freue mich sooooo sehr auf meinen Schild von dir und natürlich das Video dazu! 😍
"Now its time for a montage, or as we say in Germany, Montageschnitt. And I think that's beautiful.""
Also it is beautiful to someone keeping old arts and skills alive, because without it, then history would be llost.
Speaking as a medieval nerd and artist - I love it 😁
In the book "On Divers Arts" by Theophilus, he writes about preparing painting canvases with gesso, and in between coats of gesso, he advised using a scraper (Ziehklingen?) to smooth the surfaces
yes, I tried that too at some point, but it wasn't as efficient and precise as the back of the Box-cutter knife.
SPLENDID MAESTRO
GREAT PFP
Spielzeug - Werkzeug, I see the reason of the toy-tool confusion. 😀
It took the youtube algorithm 8 months to get me here, but by God, I'm glad it got me here at last!
Incredible work!
Sidenote: I'm glad you used modern pigments, please don't touch lead :)
That was amazing!!!
I'm provably going to watch all your videos in one go
Beautiful a work of art. Your passion for your craft is contagious thank you for preserving the history of how to create these items.
Stickers are a solution to your problem. Just attach the sticker next to the price that says: "Don't lick the shield". That's the world we live in :D
Amazing job by the way!
As an oil painter, many of the traditional pigments are HIGHLY toxic, like cadmium, chrome, and cobalt among others. It’s never stopped me from getting my hands dirty when I need to. So I think as long as you know and accept the risks it should be fine!
Fantastic video! You transmit so much passion, it makes me happy to see people doing this sort of thing.
Yeah, that burlap layer turned out really nice.
Fantastic work.
*OH MAN THAT IS BEAUTIFUL* the only thing I would say is to lengthen the revel sequence cos I got TH-cam promo boxes all over it and could not see it properly
its like the original fiberglass and resin
Exactly right. I have a Turkmen saddle which is entirely coated in sinew and hide glue just like fiberglass.
Today I learned about pressing your thumbs for good luck. 👍
Incredible work! Using period pigments is just crazy! I have plans to weave another rattan shield soon, and I plan to paint it with an authentic design, but I don't think I am up for using real cinnabar and orpiment like the original recipe calls for.
You have no idea how much I love this.
Here is a tip.... two tips. Use more glue when gluing the Hessisches Tuch. Pre-soak the cloth to make it more malleable. Now you have to wait for it to soak up glue before you can get around corners. Yes, messy and hard, fast work but I think it solves a lot of problems. And use a roller to get the glue worked in to the fabric and fill all those holes. It will surely cut back on de-lamination and prevent those pin holes in your gesso.
Thank you! :)
If I pre soak the fabrik, it gets folds which are very difficult to massage out and the glue won't soak in that good and in addition will be thinned down in the pores where I want it to be. I'm afraid the roller would bring even more air bubbles into the glue becaus it's sticky character creats a high surface tension, which can trap air quickly, especially when cooling down. :( Thanks for the Ideas though! Have you yourself actually tried those suggestions on a similar piece (open woofen fabrik and hide glue) bevore? If yes, I take back my criticism XD
@@TheShieldery LOL. What you do is unique so OBVIOUSLY I did not. But I see a lot of resemblance with laminating using for instance resin. Like they do in boat building:
th-cam.com/video/-2sh9hrIyHQ/w-d-xo.html
Not the same but it sure looks similar so technique may cross over.
You may be right about the roller getting sticky but if you keep reheating the roller in a bath? On that note. Did you ever try an Iron (laundry iron) to reactivate the glue to get bubbles to stick again after you popped them? Maybe you did. I'm a but fuzzy, I need to rewatch video's I have seen. I watched them in not chronological order so.....
No criticism implied. Just spitballing here
Amazing ^^ About the handles, I've seen on many medieval shields the use of clinch nails: you first drill from the front a tiny hole that allows you to not destroy the layers you've put on, hammer in the nail with the flat side perpendicular to the wood fibers (otherwise you split it open), position the leather handle, hammer the nail to make an almost 90° angle and hammer it back in the wood. You then apply a second layer of fabric on the front to hide the nails and reinforce the shield. It is then impossible to pull the handle off. If when drilling the holes the fabric gets off, you can just add glue to put it back but there is a really small risk it happens.
You could also drill all the holes before you apply the fabric and pierce it then with a tool, safer but longer.
Thank you! :)
I tried that reaplying_a_second_layer_ontop_of_the_nails and first: we found not a singel shield where this was done and second is my theory why - (caus I tried it once): It's impossible to glue the fabrik/ rawhide to a metal surface like the nails, so you take the risk of a not connectet popint thats large enough to rip a hole in the hole surface when stroken off. And that point is additionally raised from the other parts of the surface, so it will happen quite fast.
I do the 90 degrees thing quite often and it usually leavs a clear mark, which you can't see on the museums piece - therefor it wasn't done on this Pavese.
Thank's for that suggestion, I thought about adressing that in my video about the large Normann shield, but it led to faar from the main topic, so I didn't.....
@@TheShieldery (I am movementsciences36, this account is for a non profit association about medieval reanactment) Interesting indeed. Though I must disagree about no shield with this method. I've been to many Europeean museums (I'm European), read researched reviews, and even just by researching on internet I've found many shields from museums with clinch nails going through from the front. Usually the head of the nails are hidden under a fabric or in the dark painting. Sometimes they are also left visible. You can make the top of the nails head rough by liming and engraving points/lines: it helps the glue to stick on it.
Anyway, we could talk for hours about it as it is enthralling.
I am sure they would have chosen non-toxic materials if they knew of them, you're fine - use safe substitutes, preserve the techniques and style!
Übel nice, ich finde es schön das du deine Arbeitsschritte so genau erklärst und man merkt wirklich, dass es deine Passion ist. Keep up the nice work!
As a mega shield nerd who has long been in the HEMA / Historical Martial Arts sphere, my algorithm has lead me to the right place.
Time to binge your content.
+1 Subscribe.
Fantastische Arbeit! Vielen Dank für detailierte Zeigen des Bauprozesses!
If you ever feel like your life isn't hard enough you should checkout the very few Aztec feather shields that are still around and try to recreate one, I know one of them is in the museum of Vienna
What an amazing and authentic replica, and so enjoyable to watch the process of its creation! You did such a good job on it, I really think it turned out great. I'm surprised your channel hasn't got more subscribers, because you've produced very entertaining and educational content here.
Awesome work.
Beautiful shield
Good job. This is a prime example of the stereotypical German (or modern times) precision vs medieval approach of "functional and good enough". If you make one shield for yourself you can play with details. I am fairly certain medieval craftsmen who needed to equip thousands of guys and did not use a lot of electrical appliances were perfectly OK with minor blemishes😀
Even swords that were made for the most wealthy weren't perfect in our modern understanding.
Skin glue aka Hide glue.
And the fabric is called burlap in English. Hallo aus NRW, aber ich war nacht Amerika geborn.
Danke! Die Fachausdrücke kennt Google leider meist nicht und dann muss ich schaun, wo ich was finde. Skin glue ist aber auch ok/ verständlich; oder?
Absolutely stunning! I Respect your work
So cool! Great job, always wonderful to stumble across niche craftsmen on TH-cam. Happy to subscribe.
I’m so happy to have come across your channel! This is absolutely amazing, and I’m very happy you didn’t use lead white
Excelente...gracias por compartir....Slds desde Valencia...
Stunning! 😍
Beautiful job. God bless
super cool video, definitely going to try my hand at shield making. not gonna lie i love germans swearing in english, super funny to me, please keep doing it!!
Thanks YT for recommendation this channel, really enjoyed the video and the shield! My respect, Sir!
Very interesting. And very well done.
I'm unsure why youtube recommended this video (it's super random) But I'm sincerely glad. It was a delight to watch the process you went through with this shield and while I'll probably never attempt anything like this it was super cool hearing the why's and how's related to everything you were doing. Thank you for sharing (:
You should bring your work to Tewkesbury medieval festival in July 12/13 England. My friend's carry shield like that into battle!
Great Job!!
Well done man! Looks amazing!
great video! i think using modern pigments is fine as long as the intent is the same, and given how much effort you go into making the rest accurate i'm sure its fine! one thing though: i wish the reveal was longer! i wanted more time to look at the shield! this is an old video though so ill have to check out your newest ones :)
Zinnober enthält zwar Quecksilber, ist als Verbindung aber sehr stabil und daher ungiftig, vor Allem in gebundenem Zustand wie als aufgetragene Farbe. Aber Atemschutz ist nie verkehrt beim Anmischen der Farbmittel ^^
What a beautiful shield! You have done such an amazing job. I made an Anglo saxon inspired shield a couple of years ago. So much fun. Subscribed.
Man I gotta say. This was an absolute pleasure to watch! I love the historical aspects you drew and the explanation of each technique used. That and the end product was just beautiful! Well done ❤ +1 sub
love you and your work buddy, hugs from brazil ❤
I find it a bit funny the Pavese is to my knowledge the precursor of the modern riot shield. So oddly enough, the design is still in use hundreds of years later. Albeit with some changes for modernity. Regardless though, it turned out to be a beautiful shield. Great job!
Beautiful!!!
Great video. The shield you made is gorgeous. Thank you for showing us the proces. I'd like to make something like this in miniature for the armoury in my 1/12 scale Castle Tower dollhouse I'm building at the moment. Thanks! Edit: And I subscribed of course!!
thats giga swag. cool that is from bohemia im czech so its cool to see.
I just found your channel Andre, and I'm very impressed- this pavise in particular is brilliant. I have some advice for dealing with areas of canvas or parchment that don't seem to have adhered properly: you can take advantage of the fact that hide glue will soften with a bit of water and heat rather than just adding more glue; use a utility knife to open any air pockets, put in a little water with a small paint brush, and use a heat gun to warm the glue until it's sticky and then just press the canvas down again. The glue is much more sticky when just re-heated than it is when fresh, and it will hold quickly- much moreso than fresh glue will.
Also, the museum page doesn't name any of the pigments- did you check with them and they told you the red was cinnabar? I'd have thought red ochre would be a more likely and non-toxic choice .
they got so many paveses, I doupt they tested the pigments of more then one or two. When the owner spend so much on the Azurite pigment, I assume he also would have gone for cinnabar. There are a lot of ochres, the ones of I know would be way more brownish after 500 years and all the dirt. So the red is way to vibrant for Ochre ( I assume). Yo ucan see an even darker red right on the edge, which looks more like an earth pigment.
Awesome video!
This looks and is amazing! Now I wonder why such a shape was used...
as coveradge you can wear on your back or put up infront of you while holding a spear with two hands or reloding your Crossbow :)
Verdammt gute Arbeit, mach weiter so!!
Honestly im much more scared of the cinnibar than the white lead. White lead is pretty harmless unless you sand it or have chunks of it flake off. Cinnebar is at least moderatly permiable through your skin and slightly volatile.
Medievel "fiberglas" interesting!
Gerade das erste Video von dir hier gesehen. Und ich bin begeistert... deine Leidenschaft und deine ehrliche und tolle Art machen es wirklich spannend dir zuzusehen. Außerdem komme ich aus der unmittelbaren nähe wo du dein Werk schlussendlich vorgestellt hast. Vielleicht bist du ja nicht weit ansässig. Und zum anderen bin ich Schreiner und Restaurator. Dadurch ist mir der genannte Handel für Pigmente natürlich geläufig und kann bestätigen was du sagtest. Außerdem dein Umgang mit den verwendeten Materialien und der infoinput sind bemerkenswert für "dein hobby" , wenn ich dass so sagen darf. Alles in allem ein ganz tolles Video, sympathischer Mann und ganz tolle Arbeit die mich wirklich beeindruckt hat. Vielleicht läuft man sich ja mal über den Weg. Abo und like sind sicher! Werde mir noch viel mehr von dir ansehen.
Beste Grüße aus Nürnberg.
I'd suggest to avoid lead at all cost. Beautiful work.
OH SHI..... PURE BOHEMIAN PAVISE 🇨🇿💪🏻🍺😅
Cinnabar was mostly dangerous to the miners and craftsmen, so as long as you are safe, it should be OK.
Wie geil is this denn bitte?