HUGE bunch of work is done, hope you've got something from it ;) For those heretics who like to skip stuff: Basics and Effort Analysis: 1:00 Pros and Cons: 4:56 Conclusions and Applications: 6:07 I'll see you soon!
Mani, we really appreciate your hard work on these videos really makes us all better climbers. As for myself I focus on climbing static as much as possible and when needed if I can't reach a hold or I know I need the momentum for a following move I go dynamic. Amazing work as always man, keep at it my friend.
Mani, your last few videos are looking very good. Your video quality and information has been improving over the last several months. Keep up the good work!
This is honestly the first worthwhile video on this topic i've seen on youtube, others have always been very superficial and full of brainless misconceptions. And I think this is a very rich topic for further analysis and study. The first follow-on topic that comes to mind is dead-pointing (using accuracy to reduce contact strength required after a dynamic movement)
Your videos are becoming such high quality, really professional content here. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos and for your dedication to both the climbing community and your youtube followers! You really are the best climbing channel, and I hope that you are aware of that!
Great video Mani. As a beginner climber (2 months into it), I find myself using a static style almost all of the time. The only time I use dynos are for those out of reach holds. But now I'll be more conscious in using a dyno approach more! Regards, from Canada
Ah! I just started climbing about 2 month ago - and I’m killing it (I was also born in late 1990- soo I definitely take that into consideration with my climbing progress) but these videos have been so helpful! this video has been the best so far! It will help me with approaching problems and determining the best way to reach for holds effectively. Love the editing here. Very well done. Thank you.
I really like that you talk the physics behind the techniques you present. Im a bit of a nerd, and also female, so I feel like I have to rely on technique to get better. Your videos give me a lot of good information to take to my climbing, whether outdoor or in the gym. Thank you!
I enjoyed this video particularly because as a older beginner climber, my style is naturally more static. I have recently been trying to incorporate more dynamic moves into my climbing. This video helped a lot. Thanks
Awesome video, possibly your best so far, perfectly edited. I've been climbing for almost 3 years now, and just now I'm starting to "know" when I have to climb statically and dinamically (depending on the route of course), it helps a lot for the sends..this video summarizes it well this important concept.
Fantastic video! Sometimes I lapse into a more dynamic style when I climb some tough (for me) routes, but I've been trying to avoid it because I always thought static was more nuanced and preferred. But I'm happy to hear that it has its time and place! By the way, Mani, I love your analytical approach, it speaks to my engineering mind :) and the videos are a great illustration. Thanks for this!
Dynamic style helped me a lot when I first started climbing and didn't have arms/core muscles to do everything statically. On vertical terrain it also taught me to use my legs and hips more. Now, on more difficult problems I try to static unless necessary, it makes my climbing feel "cleaner".
Fun subject Mani. Well organized presentation too. I remember Udo commenting on the power of intuition.... We cant have intuition if we make rules for ourselves (like one style is always better than another). I feel like your presentation gave us reasons to break down our little rules and move closer to becoming intuitive climbers. Thanks man! :)
My left shoulder dislocates all the time when up and slightly back... Often there are moves where a static approach is right for many ppl, but I need to climb dynamically to change where my body is relative to the hold and put the hold slightly in front of me where my shoulder will stay in its socket. I see these styles more as tools to overcome obstacles rather than something to identify with. Thanks for really hitting on the situational nuances of when and where each style is beneficial!
I see all your videos an then I aply your knowledge in my training on the wall, I feel the improve in my climb technique, thank you so much for all work to make these videos!
Thanks for the lesson! I'll definitely be thinking more about when and why I climb a move or problem statically or dynamically. Great to hear your thoughts and have it illustrated with the comparative videos :D
Hey Mani, nice video. Something important to take into account is which style will make you stronger when training. When going for the redpoint it's always better to go for the energy efficient way. However, exercises are usually more effective when done slowly and under control. I'd say, train statically for control and strength but don't let dynamic moves turn into an Achilles heel.
Thanks for another great vid Mani. The other consideration is how fast muscles and joints are loaded. I find sometimes a static move is safer to avoid shock loading a shoulder or fingers if it can’t be accurately deadpointed, or if the reaching arm has to lock off on contact. But may be the issue is poor feet position and lack of body tension causing the overloading of upper body on overhanging routes and not to do with style? Interested in your thoughts on this.
Enjoyed watching this episode and funny fall in the beginning :) Really informative! Got myself thinking that if someone would ask to recommend one video resource to learn from, I would probably name your channel. Thank you for great work and quality content!
Always thought static style was better because, aesthetically-speaking, it is more attractive to the eye and looks so much more controlled. However, I'm a dynamic climber myself and agree with you that (ironically?) I conserve much more energy with an aggressive, momentum based approach, than a slow and calculated style. Cool to hear you lay it out like you did, thanks for the content!
Another great video. I have definitely noticed when I climb outdoor that I will go more static on the moves I'm unsure of until I get a better feel for that hold, then I'll go more dynamic.
I think it is usually more difficult to climb dynamically, when you don't know the route that you're climbing. When you move dynamically you are committing to grabbing the next hold in a certain way, whereas the static method allows you to test the hold out. I tend to climb more statically on onsight attempts, whereas I complete most redpoints by climbing dynamically.
good perspective! I always prefer static style of climbing as I feel you can get much stronger when you can problems statically. Also, I think climbing statically is good training for outdoor climbing as I think outdoor routes are less dynamic.
hey there mani! thanks for all the videos - really like the content, helps me a great deal with how i approach my climbing! also - i really like your outro music - is there a way you could share your cover in full? thanks again and all the best!
hey, very interesting video dude. Even though u've made this video focused on artificial boulder. Could you do some short video about these two style of climbing on natural rock. Beacuse i have problems when i dontn know which type of gripping i have on top of me when im climbing in dynamic style, so i fall very often, how can i improve my dynamic style on rockk?
Great video as always! Do you perhaps have tips on how to warm up the fingers and arms on crags where the easiest route is already beyond onsight level?
If I may try to help you...I had the same problem, I solved it by making easy traverses just above ground level, if it's possible at your crag, then it may help you.
At first I didn't like the analysis, and than understood that I have a weak hand, so working with static climbing conserves more energy for me, but for other climbers that wouldn't be the case. Thank you! Great work:)
thanks mani he aprendido que mis movimientos al escalar es de mucho dinamico pero los movimientos estaticos son muchos mas practicos cuando estas cerca de la presa o la misma es de solo dedos, mil gracias.
You mention that you wouldn't recommend the campus board for beginners. I am a beginner and I heard this many times, same for fingerboard training. That got me a great deal of respect for those things and I am sitting here, wondering when I should actually start giving those a try. Same for full crimping. I heard that's likely to get me injured, so when I encounter crimps, I only every attempt open hand stuff. I am about half a year in and by now I hit the gym three times a week. I don't really know what difficulty I am climbing, since I tried a bunch of different gyms and grades seem to be all over the place to the point where I don't care about them anymore. The only thing I think I can say is that I suck on slabs, while being pretty good in overhangs. So.. when and how do I know that I could start doing some of those training boards?
Thanks for the videos! How did you make the training setup in the back. I am now looking to make such a device at home so I can train when I can't go and climb elsewhere
im a dynamic climber cuz im short and trying to reach holds far away from me is way harder to lock off but i am strong enough to climb static but only if the holds are a medium length away
What about skin in climbing.I find that when I have to use a more dynamic styles that I am more prone to tears.I think I tend to default to a static style.
Seriously though, this kind of stuff is totally worth listening to. I found it to be extremely helpful in my climbing. Check out my channel if you wanna see some cool outdoor bouldering, puts into perspective these moves he's actually talking about.
HUGE bunch of work is done, hope you've got something from it ;)
For those heretics who like to skip stuff:
Basics and Effort Analysis: 1:00
Pros and Cons: 4:56
Conclusions and Applications: 6:07
I'll see you soon!
Mani, we really appreciate your hard work on these videos really makes us all better climbers.
As for myself I focus on climbing static as much as possible and when needed if I can't reach a hold or I know I need the momentum for a following move I go dynamic. Amazing work as always man, keep at it my friend.
Thanks Oswaldo!
Wow, this is one of your best made videos! Superbly edited, and very informative. Good stuff, Mani!
Thanks man, I'm trying my best over here :)
have been listening for first 45 secs and didn't hear anything usefulll...
i just like climbing statically because thats how sloths climb and they're pretty good at climbing lol
They also sleep up to 18 hours a day 😅
Mani, your last few videos are looking very good. Your video quality and information has been improving over the last several months. Keep up the good work!
This is honestly the first worthwhile video on this topic i've seen on youtube, others have always been very superficial and full of brainless misconceptions.
And I think this is a very rich topic for further analysis and study.
The first follow-on topic that comes to mind is dead-pointing (using accuracy to reduce contact strength required after a dynamic movement)
Your videos are becoming such high quality, really professional content here. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos and for your dedication to both the climbing community and your youtube followers! You really are the best climbing channel, and I hope that you are aware of that!
Great video Mani. As a beginner climber (2 months into it), I find myself using a static style almost all of the time. The only time I use dynos are for those out of reach holds. But now I'll be more conscious in using a dyno approach more!
Regards, from Canada
top notch video Mani! Great analysis of both styles.
I absolutely love your videos! I've started climbing very recently, but I quickly improved my climbing thanks to your videos
This is super high quality. Excellent video mani!
Thanks for making another technique video, I know they are a lot of work for you but they are always so helpful!
Ah! I just started climbing about 2 month ago - and I’m killing it (I was also born in late 1990- soo I definitely take that into consideration with my climbing progress) but these videos have been so helpful! this video has been the best so far! It will help me with approaching problems and determining the best way to reach for holds effectively. Love the editing here. Very well done. Thank you.
I really like that you talk the physics behind the techniques you present. Im a bit of a nerd, and also female, so I feel like I have to rely on technique to get better. Your videos give me a lot of good information to take to my climbing, whether outdoor or in the gym. Thank you!
That was tremendously informative! Especially liked that you showed application of the two styles to better understand the difference
I enjoyed this video particularly because as a older beginner climber, my style is naturally more static. I have recently been trying to incorporate more dynamic moves into my climbing. This video helped a lot. Thanks
Great job on the video Mani, keep it up!
Awesome video, possibly your best so far, perfectly edited. I've been climbing for almost 3 years now, and just now I'm starting to "know" when I have to climb statically and dinamically (depending on the route of course), it helps a lot for the sends..this video summarizes it well this important concept.
Fantastic video! Sometimes I lapse into a more dynamic style when I climb some tough (for me) routes, but I've been trying to avoid it because I always thought static was more nuanced and preferred. But I'm happy to hear that it has its time and place! By the way, Mani, I love your analytical approach, it speaks to my engineering mind :) and the videos are a great illustration. Thanks for this!
Awesome video! As I'm going from a beginner level to an intermediate I found this topic incredibly interesting. Thank you for your effort!
Dynamic style helped me a lot when I first started climbing and didn't have arms/core muscles to do everything statically. On vertical terrain it also taught me to use my legs and hips more. Now, on more difficult problems I try to static unless necessary, it makes my climbing feel "cleaner".
This is such a well-made video! I have always thought my style was too dynamic and it’s nice to hear that both general styles are useful.
Fun subject Mani. Well organized presentation too. I remember Udo commenting on the power of intuition.... We cant have intuition if we make rules for ourselves (like one style is always better than another). I feel like your presentation gave us reasons to break down our little rules and move closer to becoming intuitive climbers. Thanks man! :)
My left shoulder dislocates all the time when up and slightly back... Often there are moves where a static approach is right for many ppl, but I need to climb dynamically to change where my body is relative to the hold and put the hold slightly in front of me where my shoulder will stay in its socket. I see these styles more as tools to overcome obstacles rather than something to identify with. Thanks for really hitting on the situational nuances of when and where each style is beneficial!
I see all your videos an then I aply your knowledge in my training on the wall, I feel the improve in my climb technique, thank you so much for all work to make these videos!
Thanks for the lesson! I'll definitely be thinking more about when and why I climb a move or problem statically or dynamically. Great to hear your thoughts and have it illustrated with the comparative videos :D
A great great video. Interesting research with a very good neutral conclusion! Loved the touches of humour, great work!
Thank you Mani! Very well explained, cheers from Slovakia :)
Hey Mani, nice video.
Something important to take into account is which style will make you stronger when training.
When going for the redpoint it's always better to go for the energy efficient way. However, exercises are usually more effective when done slowly and under control.
I'd say, train statically for control and strength but don't let dynamic moves turn into an Achilles heel.
Excellent video man, your analysis is so clear and precise! Keep it up :D
Really great video Mani, it helped me a lot. I hope to be able to climb my project now. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, good luck!
I like how you agree that both have their place.
Excellent video. Best I´ve seen about the subject, good job, man(i)!
Top notch video, mate. Great quality, good info, and presentation. Thanks!
Incredible editing Mani! That was an amazing video, very interessant! Thx for the work!
Thanks a lot Mani for this hard work. Great Video !
Well explained ! Go on like this, Mani !
so well and thoroughly explained. every bit made sense to me
thanks a lot, i really needed this
Dude, super good video. This is why I love TH-cam best qualitiy education for free. thanks!
Excellent video Mani, super interesting content - I feel like I've learned alot! Thanks
Thanks for another great vid Mani.
The other consideration is how fast muscles and joints are loaded. I find sometimes a static move is safer to avoid shock loading a shoulder or fingers if it can’t be accurately deadpointed, or if the reaching arm has to lock off on contact.
But may be the issue is poor feet position and lack of body tension causing the overloading of upper body on overhanging routes and not to do with style?
Interested in your thoughts on this.
Enjoyed watching this episode and funny fall in the beginning :) Really informative! Got myself thinking that if someone would ask to recommend one video resource to learn from, I would probably name your channel. Thank you for great work and quality content!
It's a pleasure to me, recommend as much as you like :D
Always thought static style was better because, aesthetically-speaking, it is more attractive to the eye and looks so much more controlled. However, I'm a dynamic climber myself and agree with you that (ironically?) I conserve much more energy with an aggressive, momentum based approach, than a slow and calculated style. Cool to hear you lay it out like you did, thanks for the content!
It's a pleasure to me Victor, I'm glad you've got something from the episode!
Most important con od static style: it's bad for your elbows.
Besides that - I agree 100% with what you say in the movie!
Very educational this one. Really good 👍🏻
Another great video. I have definitely noticed when I climb outdoor that I will go more static on the moves I'm unsure of until I get a better feel for that hold, then I'll go more dynamic.
Awesome vid! Helped me heaps. Thanks manie!!
Superb video, very helpful! Thank you for this great insight!
Awesome video!!!! Can you make a vid about periodization for boulderers
I think it is usually more difficult to climb dynamically, when you don't know the route that you're climbing. When you move dynamically you are committing to grabbing the next hold in a certain way, whereas the static method allows you to test the hold out. I tend to climb more statically on onsight attempts, whereas I complete most redpoints by climbing dynamically.
good perspective! I always prefer static style of climbing as I feel you can get much stronger when you can problems statically. Also, I think climbing statically is good training for outdoor climbing as I think outdoor routes are less dynamic.
"let's jump right into it!"
Thank you, you’re awesome!
Thank you, very informative/ educational. You the man!
hey there mani! thanks for all the videos - really like the content, helps me a great deal with how i approach my climbing! also - i really like your outro music - is there a way you could share your cover in full? thanks again and all the best!
hey, very interesting video dude. Even though u've made this video focused on artificial boulder. Could you do some short video about these two style of climbing on natural rock. Beacuse i have problems when i dontn know which type of gripping i have on top of me when im climbing in dynamic style, so i fall very often, how can i improve my dynamic style on rockk?
I'll try my best!
Love it! Thank you!
Great video as always!
Do you perhaps have tips on how to warm up the fingers and arms on crags where the easiest route is already beyond onsight level?
If I may try to help you...I had the same problem, I solved it by making easy traverses just above ground level, if it's possible at your crag, then it may help you.
Super good video!
very helpful video!
Awsome video!
excellent video
At first I didn't like the analysis, and than understood that I have a weak hand, so working with static climbing conserves more energy for me, but for other climbers that wouldn't be the case.
Thank you! Great work:)
thanks. very informative!
thanks mani he aprendido que mis movimientos al escalar es de mucho dinamico pero los movimientos estaticos son muchos mas practicos cuando estas cerca de la presa o la misma es de solo dedos, mil gracias.
Muchas gracias para tu comentario en espanol, yo trato aprender espanol en este momento :) yo comprendo mas el inicio de tu comentario que el fin :P
i cannot leave without put the like counter to 600 :p Good video mate !
Hehe thanks man, I appreciate it!
I believe that if you are approaching a problem there are moves that you need to be dynamic and phases where static is preferred to save energy
You mention that you wouldn't recommend the campus board for beginners. I am a beginner and I heard this many times, same for fingerboard training. That got me a great deal of respect for those things and I am sitting here, wondering when I should actually start giving those a try. Same for full crimping. I heard that's likely to get me injured, so when I encounter crimps, I only every attempt open hand stuff. I am about half a year in and by now I hit the gym three times a week. I don't really know what difficulty I am climbing, since I tried a bunch of different gyms and grades seem to be all over the place to the point where I don't care about them anymore. The only thing I think I can say is that I suck on slabs, while being pretty good in overhangs.
So.. when and how do I know that I could start doing some of those training boards?
Thanks for the videos! How did you make the training setup in the back. I am now looking to make such a device at home so I can train when I can't go and climb elsewhere
Ok never mind I just found your video..thanks!
im a dynamic climber cuz im short and trying to reach holds far away from me is way harder to lock off but i am strong enough to climb static but only if the holds are a medium length away
I am a climber as well, I prefer static, my highest grade is 8B+.
ty
What about skin in climbing.I find that when I have to use a more dynamic styles that I am more prone to tears.I think I tend to default to a static style.
Nice climbing gym. What's your best climb ?
Keep straight arms or keep body close to the wall?
nice vid :D
Strength VS Power
I love the intro! Hahahah LMAO
I don't know about that teknik I just known that terms for how we fall
It's never static or dynamic. It's always somewhere in between depending on the situation.
Seriously though, this kind of stuff is totally worth listening to. I found it to be extremely helpful in my climbing. Check out my channel if you wanna see some cool outdoor bouldering, puts into perspective these moves he's actually talking about.
I would give you a superlike if youtube was like tinder.
Is that French or German accent?
Zhengming Song german, he's from vienna, austria :)
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nice videos but you need to cut them below 10 min to keep people attention.