Great piece and techniques. I like the added features of the finger grabs and juice collection and spout. I realized that doing the spout first would give more support, but figure there is a reason that it was last.
Beautiful cutting board, great work. I would suggest that you put rubber feet on the board to keep it from slipping around the countertop while cutting food on it. I do that on mine and customers love it.
Hi from Australia Just discovered your channel and have subscribed. Good to see more people starting maker channels. I watch a lot of TH-cam woodworking and look for tips for my videos. Noticed the colour of your flooring and the contrast compared to the project. Not sure if that was intentional but well done. The cutting board is outstanding and appreciate your craftmanship. Regards One Handed Maker
Awesome video man! No BS and straight to the point I really enjoyed watching it however you never mentioned what type of finish you use? Do you mind sharing
I truly love this video. You were so informative, which is great because I've noted down some of the tools I need to buy 😁 thank u again from New Zealand 💓
LOOKS AMAZING. CONGRATULATIONS. (Personally, I have made my own cutting boards for years now, that I mill from original logs. I also love cooking. I find smaller maneuverable boards best. For example, to be able to rotate the whole board sometimes, rather than what's on the board. I used to use inlay and fancy machining embellishments. I found that these would just get damaged and catch food scraps. I now save these treatments for things that are not copping a pounding. I still like the cutting board to be rugged enough that I can use a cleaver where needed. Just my version of the ideal. NOT a criticism). AGAIN, THE WORK LOOKS AMAZING.
HEY ANDREW - TAUGHT CABINETMAKING FOR 45 YEARS AND MY STUDENT'S PROJECTS TURN OUT BETTER WHEN THEY ADD THIS STEP WHEN FINISHING - ALWAY "RAISE THE GRAIN" WITH EXOTIC WOODS - THIS MEANS: WET THE WOOD WITH A COTTON RAG THEN: 120 - WET - 150 - WET - 220 - WET - 400 TACK OFF - AND I KNOW THIS A CUTTING BOARD, BUT IF IT WAS SAY A CABINET OR DESK THEN FINISH WITH "HAND RUBBED TUNG OIL" - THIS MAKES SURE THE FINISH IS "INTO THE GRAIN" AND NOT JUST SITTING ON THE SURFACE LIKE MODERN CLEAR COATS - THIS IS A LOST ART THT MOST :K-MART SPECIALS" OMIT - JUT POOR CRAFTSMANSHIP AND LAZY
Hello Andrew, thanks for taking the time to shoot and narrate this video, it was both entertaining and informative. However, there are a few things that I, and probably many other viewers would find very helpful to know: What were the width of the walnut strips and did you use the face or edge grain for the surface? What sanding grits did you use? What size router bits did you use, and at what depth did you take the juice groove and the well to? Many thanks.
Thank you so much for watching! The walnut strips were a little over 1.5” wide and there were 13 of them in total which gave me just over 20” on the total width. And the large boards were initially flat sawn but once I had the strips cut, I rotated them 90° so that the surface of the board was all rift- or quarter-sawn. I sanded starting briefly at 80 grit and worked my way up to 120, 180, and then 220 in total. For the juice groove I used a 3/4” diameter, 1/4” radius bowl and tray bit from Whiteside. Their stuff is a little pricy but I think it’s super worth it because they’re super sharp and I get almost zero burning with them and they last forever. For the roundover I used I believe a 3/8” roundover bit. Usually I go lower on the roundover for smaller boards but with one this large, it called for the larger bit I think aesthetically. I forget the depth I went to for the juice groove because I mainly did it by eye, but if I had to guess I think it was probably about 3/8” too. Hopefully this comment is helpful for you!
Great Video. The well was a Ingenius idea that turned out beautifully. I have a couple of questions. How did you divide the board to route the handle? What size round bit was used in the juice groves?
Thanks a ton! For finding the center point of the board I just took a tape measure and very carefully measured from each side (front and back) until I found the exact middle. And for the bit, it’s the 1/4” radius bowl and tray bit from Whiteside. Their stuff is a little more expensive but worth every penny I think.
Lovely board. I'm still in the watching and learning phase and will be going all out as a hobby - soon when I retire. The juice spout to me needs to just be a small angled upwards groove or you loose half the juice as its too low down as in your case. All the grooves will drain into a small reservoir - the outlet is lower than the grooves all round so will just flow out. Even just a chisseled V as a starter to direct the flow is sufficient. I've done a load of testing how this all works. Hope it makes sense 😀 Subscribed to your channel as well.
Hey man just curious, from a novice woodworker to a super advanced woodworker like yourself, would you a customer expect to pay for a cutting board of that caliber? I’ve personally begun just to put out cutting boards I feel comfortable selling to someone. Mine are not of that size certainly, I would say my boards average between 13x18x1 1/4-1 1/2. I have a couple end grain and 1or 2 edge grain. Btw I totally agree with you when you said walnut and maple go together great. I would even add to that and say the same for birch and beyond that even, Purple Heart added with those two are a winning combo in my opinion. I’d also like to hear what you would consider to be good advice for a budding woodworker who’s looking to make it his main source of income in the years to come. Thanks man!
This is a great video, and I appreciate the clear instructions throughout, although I had to turn up the volume a bit so I could hear you clearly. That is one nice-but too heavy-cutting board. My wife's in a wheelchair and would be unable to move this board on her own. I'd like to have seen a scaled-down version of this at say, 10×12 inches and 1 inch thick. Anyhow, keep them coming.
Thank you! I made sure to tell the client beforehand how heavy it would be when he told me the dimensions (even used a calculator online to get a rough idea) but that's what they wanted, so the client gets what the client wants haha
my name is Brent, i have found an excellent way for the juice grove well, i made n 45 degree piece to go into any corner. clamp it, to prevent movement. I have found this too work excellent. this also adds an extra design too your cutting board.
beautiful.. however in the future start clamping in the center and then work to the outside edges. doing edges first the strip your installing will bunch up in the center. you may not be able to see it but its there. you want to have any expansion free to relax as you clamp.
Appreciate it! I think in all it took about two weeks. I’ve done a couple more of these boards since then, so they go faster since I know what to expect with the process now
Very nice board bro 👍🏻 you've helped solve the juice groove problem I have with a board I just finished so I'll get it back and employ your well technique 👌🏻 cheers!
Hey dude, lovely work. How about buffing the surface before oiling using a hard linen (old style Denim would do)? Cut pieces to fit your orbital sander. This will improve the finish of the wood. You'll also pick up high and low points which may need to be re-sanded.. (I know it's only a chopping board but if it's worth doing, it's worth over doing as you have beautifully demonstrated). : )
@@andrewcheatle I don't know if this is actually possible on end grain but I can't think why not. When French polishing (obviously no good for chopping boards), half the battle is getting the wood shiny before the application of any Shellac/spirit solution. Try a piece of wood and use fine steel wool after sanding - this is similar to the process of spraying with water to lift the grain and what is never mentioned; remove dust particles usually with some form of clear solvent, then allow to dry. It's amazing how shiny you can get the wood before oiling. However, automating this process I think is the only practical way because doing this by hand is going to seriously increase the time you spend. I have an orbital sander (Makita) which is rectangular and has the clip type of retention for sanding sheets. This is ideal for holding a piece of Linen (or durable Denim, not the new stuff, it's... pants: too thin, not durable enough!). Makes the job far quicker and fun!
Hi, sorry for the belated response. The finish is Watco Butcher Block Oil and you can find it at almost any hardware store. I’ve done a ton of cutting boards with that finish over the years and never had a bad result with it. I put on two coats, scuff sanding with 400 grit sandpaper between coats.
very well explained and detailed steps, great job, its looks awesome. Will implement the triangle juice system on some of my personal boards too, i like it
Thanks! For a board this large and for the amount of work involved, I'd normally charge probably around $180, give or take. It's just a ton of material that goes into it, and the extra features necessitate a lot of extra hours that a normal cutting board wouldn't require.
They make some really good double sided tape for wood working that works just as well as the CA glue and painters tape but way less hassle. I switched a little while ago and it really makes it easier
Thank you! It was a commissioned piece that went to the customer’s wife. She’s a professional baker and loves to cook so he wanted her to have a nice big cutting board.
I don’t typically water pop for cutting boards and honestly more often than not for most projects it just depends on whether I remember to or not prior to finishing. Regardless, I usually get a consistently good finish with that butcher board oil and I think it would be difficult to mess it up too badly.
You did a very impressive job of making it look like one massive piece of walnut! I like the juice well too! I believe I've only seen that once on a cutting board. I think I'll try it on my next large board. BTW, I was wondering if you put feet on it, you didn't mention that!
Hi thanks for your comment! Typically I don’t put feet on the boards I make but I’ll mention to the customer that they exist and are super cheap and easy to install if they want it.
That is a nice cutting board, I made one just like it for my sister, but a bit smaller then her friend saw it and I made one for her and sold it for $300. Since then, I have adjusted my juice grooves to provide better drainage but it is wat more labor intensive then a cutting board should be so I only do that for friends or people that want to pay more.
Yep silicon! It’s the ones Rockler makes. I’m a big fan for glue ups because the glue dries on easily and then you can just peel it off later. I’ve had it now for about six months and it’s held up really well
You should just use a sled on the bottom of your planer then you can use it for any width, also helps with tare out. Also, seriously enjoyed the video.
I notice you flex on your top clamps .... suggestion, flip them the other direction and you'll get more even pressure opposite your L-block clamps. Looks great though.
I LOVE that little corner catch-all for juices... not only from a maker's point of view, but as a home chef that's a great idea!!!
Ya, bro .. I feel that stress on the bandsaw for the accent strip
Great piece and techniques. I like the added features of the finger grabs and juice collection and spout.
I realized that doing the spout first would give more support, but figure there is a reason that it was last.
Beautiful cutting board, great work. I would suggest that you put rubber feet on the board to keep it from slipping around the countertop while cutting food on it. I do that on mine and customers love it.
Nice, on the juice spout I tend to go to my dremel with the sander attachment. You can go deep in the groove and give it a spout style pour.
Such a good follow along… makes these things seem possible for the amateur! Beautiful piece and well shot.
Thanks man! Appreciate the support!
Hi from Australia
Just discovered your channel and have subscribed.
Good to see more people starting maker channels.
I watch a lot of TH-cam woodworking and look for tips for my videos. Noticed the colour of your flooring and the contrast compared to the project. Not sure if that was intentional but well done.
The cutting board is outstanding and appreciate your craftmanship.
Regards
One Handed Maker
Love the corner catch tray and spout idea....great job!!!
Super cool idea with the supporting foam to save your bench! Subbed
Very well done! I made this butcher block and have been meaning to add the corner well but was not sure how. I’ll try your method.
Have to make a large board this weekend. Haven't done one this big before. I'm inspired now! Thank you!
Good luck!
Well. I’m a fan! Wonderful walk through. Soooo…when is the next video?!?!?
Thank you very much! I’m finishing up a couple shop projects and then going to start on a walnut coffee table I’m excited about!
Turned out beautiful! Great job.
Awesome video man! No BS and straight to the point I really enjoyed watching it however you never mentioned what type of finish you use? Do you mind sharing
I truly love this video. You were so informative, which is great because I've noted down some of the tools I need to buy 😁 thank u again from New Zealand 💓
Glad it was helpful and appreciate you watching!
That walnut was too nice for a cutting board. Good job. These are by far my biggest selling item.
Excellent build and video!!! ❤🎉
LOOKS AMAZING. CONGRATULATIONS. (Personally, I have made my own cutting boards for years now, that I mill from original logs. I also love cooking. I find smaller maneuverable boards best. For example, to be able to rotate the whole board sometimes, rather than what's on the board. I used to use inlay and fancy machining embellishments. I found that these would just get damaged and catch food scraps. I now save these treatments for things that are not copping a pounding. I still like the cutting board to be rugged enough that I can use a cleaver where needed. Just my version of the ideal. NOT a criticism). AGAIN, THE WORK LOOKS AMAZING.
Appreciate it, thank you!
HEY ANDREW - TAUGHT CABINETMAKING FOR 45 YEARS AND MY STUDENT'S PROJECTS TURN OUT BETTER WHEN THEY ADD THIS STEP WHEN FINISHING - ALWAY "RAISE THE GRAIN" WITH EXOTIC WOODS - THIS MEANS: WET THE WOOD WITH A COTTON RAG THEN: 120 - WET - 150 - WET - 220 - WET - 400 TACK OFF - AND I KNOW THIS A CUTTING BOARD, BUT IF IT WAS SAY A CABINET OR DESK THEN FINISH WITH "HAND RUBBED TUNG OIL" - THIS MAKES SURE THE FINISH IS "INTO THE GRAIN" AND NOT JUST SITTING ON THE SURFACE LIKE MODERN CLEAR COATS - THIS IS A LOST ART THT MOST :K-MART SPECIALS" OMIT - JUT POOR CRAFTSMANSHIP AND LAZY
Hello Andrew, thanks for taking the time to shoot and narrate this video, it was both entertaining and informative. However, there are a few things that I, and probably many other viewers would find very helpful to know: What were the width of the walnut strips and did you use the face or edge grain for the surface? What sanding grits did you use? What size router bits did you use, and at what depth did you take the juice groove and the well to? Many thanks.
Thank you so much for watching! The walnut strips were a little over 1.5” wide and there were 13 of them in total which gave me just over 20” on the total width. And the large boards were initially flat sawn but once I had the strips cut, I rotated them 90° so that the surface of the board was all rift- or quarter-sawn. I sanded starting briefly at 80 grit and worked my way up to 120, 180, and then 220 in total. For the juice groove I used a 3/4” diameter, 1/4” radius bowl and tray bit from Whiteside. Their stuff is a little pricy but I think it’s super worth it because they’re super sharp and I get almost zero burning with them and they last forever. For the roundover I used I believe a 3/8” roundover bit. Usually I go lower on the roundover for smaller boards but with one this large, it called for the larger bit I think aesthetically. I forget the depth I went to for the juice groove because I mainly did it by eye, but if I had to guess I think it was probably about 3/8” too. Hopefully this comment is helpful for you!
I use my core box bit to make centered finger slot on the ends. That way you can use both sides of the board.
That was a very nice project. Well done, and your narration was spot on. Congrats.
Nice! I miss having access to a wood or even machine shop or even a usually empty garage but I remember doing similar woodwork as time allowed
Awesome video and great explaining of process on the commentary 👍
lol. That’s massive. 20lbs !! Nicely done.
Nice job Andrew, Beautiful work
That was a fantastic video and project. I loved the way it turned out and how you explained it. Simply awesome dude, keep them coming!
Wow! That was super satisfying to watch, and lots of great little tips. Thank you!
Great Video. The well was a Ingenius idea that turned out beautifully. I have a couple of questions. How did you divide the board to route the handle? What size round bit was used in the juice groves?
Thanks a ton! For finding the center point of the board I just took a tape measure and very carefully measured from each side (front and back) until I found the exact middle. And for the bit, it’s the 1/4” radius bowl and tray bit from Whiteside. Their stuff is a little more expensive but worth every penny I think.
Lovely board. I'm still in the watching and learning phase and will be going all out as a hobby - soon when I retire. The juice spout to me needs to just be a small angled upwards groove or you loose half the juice as its too low down as in your case. All the grooves will drain into a small reservoir - the outlet is lower than the grooves all round so will just flow out. Even just a chisseled V as a starter to direct the flow is sufficient. I've done a load of testing how this all works. Hope it makes sense 😀 Subscribed to your channel as well.
What was the butcher block oil? I've only ever used mineral but always looking for a better product.
Hey man just curious, from a novice woodworker to a super advanced woodworker like yourself, would you a customer expect to pay for a cutting board of that caliber? I’ve personally begun just to put out cutting boards I feel comfortable selling to someone. Mine are not of that size certainly, I would say my boards average between 13x18x1 1/4-1 1/2. I have a couple end grain and 1or 2 edge grain. Btw I totally agree with you when you said walnut and maple go together great. I would even add to that and say the same for birch and beyond that even, Purple Heart added with those two are a winning combo in my opinion. I’d also like to hear what you would consider to be good advice for a budding woodworker who’s looking to make it his main source of income in the years to come.
Thanks man!
This is a great video, and I appreciate the clear instructions throughout, although I had to turn up the volume a bit so I could hear you clearly. That is one nice-but too heavy-cutting board. My wife's in a wheelchair and would be unable to move this board on her own. I'd like to have seen a scaled-down version of this at say, 10×12 inches and 1 inch thick. Anyhow, keep them coming.
Thank you! I made sure to tell the client beforehand how heavy it would be when he told me the dimensions (even used a calculator online to get a rough idea) but that's what they wanted, so the client gets what the client wants haha
Nice job. Good use of the foam insulation.
my name is Brent, i have found an excellent way for the juice grove well, i made n 45 degree piece to go into any corner. clamp it, to prevent movement. I have found this too work excellent. this also adds an extra design too your cutting board.
HI Andrew. Great video…I definitely learned some things! Would you mind sharing the name of the butcher block oil you reference? Thank you!
Great video and editing. Almost makes me forget we are all just meat for the grinder.
Haha thanks Greg!
beautiful.. however in the future start clamping in the center and then work to the outside edges. doing edges first the strip your installing will bunch up in the center. you may not be able to see it but its there. you want to have any expansion free to relax as you clamp.
Thanks for the tip!
Wow mate that's beautiful how long did it take to complete thanks for a very good video ❤
Appreciate it! I think in all it took about two weeks. I’ve done a couple more of these boards since then, so they go faster since I know what to expect with the process now
Great job explaining the steps. I learned a lot.
That's really great work. I can't wait to see more of your work.
Very nice board bro 👍🏻 you've helped solve the juice groove problem I have with a board I just finished so I'll get it back and employ your well technique 👌🏻 cheers!
Great job impressive juice grooves and don’t give up on your channel push through and blow up your vida
Hey dude, lovely work. How about buffing the surface before oiling using a hard linen (old style Denim would do)? Cut pieces to fit your orbital sander. This will improve the finish of the wood. You'll also pick up high and low points which may need to be re-sanded..
(I know it's only a chopping board but if it's worth doing, it's worth over doing as you have beautifully demonstrated). : )
Appreciate the tip! I'll have to try that on future cutting boards
@@andrewcheatle I don't know if this is actually possible on end grain but I can't think why not. When French polishing (obviously no good for chopping boards), half the battle is getting the wood shiny before the application of any Shellac/spirit solution. Try a piece of wood and use fine steel wool after sanding - this is similar to the process of spraying with water to lift the grain and what is never mentioned; remove dust particles usually with some form of clear solvent, then allow to dry. It's amazing how shiny you can get the wood before oiling. However, automating this process I think is the only practical way because doing this by hand is going to seriously increase the time you spend. I have an orbital sander (Makita) which is rectangular and has the clip type of retention for sanding sheets. This is ideal for holding a piece of Linen (or durable Denim, not the new stuff, it's... pants: too thin, not durable enough!). Makes the job far quicker and fun!
Do you have a link for the oil you use at the end?
awesome build. may i ask what you used that was the food safe oil for its finishing?
Hi, sorry for the belated response. The finish is Watco Butcher Block Oil and you can find it at almost any hardware store. I’ve done a ton of cutting boards with that finish over the years and never had a bad result with it. I put on two coats, scuff sanding with 400 grit sandpaper between coats.
@@andrewcheatle awesome info!! Thank you so much for getting back to me!
very well explained and detailed steps, great job, its looks awesome. Will implement the triangle juice system on some of my personal boards too, i like it
Great job and great project thx for sharing enjoyed it Be safe God Bless
I had been using 3m carpet double stick tape which works great, but painter’s and CA seems quicker/cheaper. I’ll give that a try, thx.
Great job. Can you make a video about your dust collection pls. I need Ideas
Amazing board and brilliantly explained! Ballpark of what a board like this costs?
Thanks! For a board this large and for the amount of work involved, I'd normally charge probably around $180, give or take. It's just a ton of material that goes into it, and the extra features necessitate a lot of extra hours that a normal cutting board wouldn't require.
They make some really good double sided tape for wood working that works just as well as the CA glue and painters tape but way less hassle. I switched a little while ago and it really makes it easier
Brand ? Because all the double sided tape I use when I CNC is crap.
@MyCowboyWays I like the double sided turning tape from lee valley but I'm assuming any industrial style one would be fine
Enjoyed watching you make this board. It is absolutely stunning. I subbed (#100) and look forward to more of you work in the future.
Thank you so much!
Cool video Andrew!
Thank you for the tip on the butcher block oil - I've only used mineral thus far. I'm excited to try the longer lasting stuff.
That’s SICK !!! New subscriber for sure! Nice work, man !!
Muy original la idea de la esquina. tomo nota. Buen trabajo y mis felicitaciones.
At this point who cares about the board, bros punctuation is insane 😂🔥
Nicely done !!.
Love the build, its gorgeous. Was this block going to a customer or did you end up keeping it?
Thank you! It was a commissioned piece that went to the customer’s wife. She’s a professional baker and loves to cook so he wanted her to have a nice big cutting board.
wow great craftmanship !!!
Came out really nice 👌
Thank you very much!
Do you give your boards a water spray before your last sanding
I don’t typically water pop for cutting boards and honestly more often than not for most projects it just depends on whether I remember to or not prior to finishing. Regardless, I usually get a consistently good finish with that butcher board oil and I think it would be difficult to mess it up too badly.
You did a very impressive job of making it look like one massive piece of walnut! I like the juice well too! I believe I've only seen that once on a cutting board. I think I'll try it on my next large board. BTW, I was wondering if you put feet on it, you didn't mention that!
Hi thanks for your comment! Typically I don’t put feet on the boards I make but I’ll mention to the customer that they exist and are super cheap and easy to install if they want it.
Great job bro
What router bit did you use for the groove?
I use a Whiteside 1372 bowl and tray bit 👍🏼
That is a nice cutting board, I made one just like it for my sister, but a bit smaller then her friend saw it and I made one for her and sold it for $300. Since then, I have adjusted my juice grooves to provide better drainage but it is wat more labor intensive then a cutting board should be so I only do that for friends or people that want to pay more.
8:52 what is that (assuming silicon) mat you are using?
Yep silicon! It’s the ones Rockler makes. I’m a big fan for glue ups because the glue dries on easily and then you can just peel it off later. I’ve had it now for about six months and it’s held up really well
@@andrewcheatle thank you for that, appreciate the info... will pick one up
Turned out really nice 👍
Love the look of “one solid” piece but definitely prefer end grain.
Good job. Am I the only one that doesn't like to use juice grooves? I always turn them to the bottom 🤣. They look cool though
Very enjoyable!
Looks awesome! God bless!
Beautiful!
What did you use for legs?
Thanks for watching! Not sure if I’m misunderstanding but it’s a cutting board so there are no legs
@@andrewcheatle I use little rubber bumpers on the bottom. That way it doesn’t slide around on the counter top.
You should just use a sled on the bottom of your planer then you can use it for any width, also helps with tare out. Also, seriously enjoyed the video.
Looks good
great cutting board
I notice you flex on your top clamps .... suggestion, flip them the other direction and you'll get more even pressure opposite your L-block clamps.
Looks great though.
you still could have glued them all up at once; just no glue between 1st and 2nd glue up boards
Beautiful
God bless you, Great job
True Artist
What was your profit?
amazing!
Seu trabalho ficou muito top parabéns já deixei o meu like Maroto 👍👍👍fica com Deus 🙏🙏🙏🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷👍👍👍💯💯💯
Superb!
Nice job. Subscribed.
very nice
Very nice 👍
My butt cheeks clenched when you did the old "manual plunge."
Cool 😊
Great first video!!👍. Can't wait for your next project. Consider me subscribed 🍻
Хорошая работа. Мне понравилось👍. Удачи в делах.
Very nice
Awesome
Dayum!
Fun, all modern finishes are food safe once cured.
6:14, didn't you mean rotated on its "edge"?
if moist critical did woodworking