I can't even begin to tell you just how much help this has been. I work for a company that builds custom flatbeds for trucks and we also do repair, I can't even tell you how many of these trucks I've had to tell the customer there's nothing I can do because of this exact issue. And the problem worsens since the Ford dealerships in our area refuse to work on trucks that have aftermarket beds on them. Whit this info I think I'll be able to troubleshoot and either remedy or point the owner in the right direction for what needs to be done. Thanks so much this has been the bane of my existence for the past 9-10 years.
This diagnosis solved the issue I had with my rear tail lights. The 10:00 mark where the wires are cut by the conduit is exactly what happened to my 2016 F250SD. Moving the conduit caused the wire ends to touch completing circuit. The repair took about 30 minutes. I thank you so very much for your help.
I love you bro. I have an 11 f350 lariat with a Hillsboro aluminum flatbed I do field work on heavy equipment for different railroads and when I was leaving a site last night at 6 I noticed it. Had this same issue where the dozen or so lights on the bed didn’t light up. Signals and brake lights worked but the parking lights didn’t. Pulled over because nobody wants a ticket. Checked fuses, all good then prayed to the google gods that there was a free/legible wiring diagram. Then I found you, my guardian angel. Put my circuit tester on pin 6 and sure enough it was open. Had it back up in 15 minutes. Then I drove 4 hours home 🙃
My buddy said electricrical trouble is the 555 rule it could take 5minutes 5 hours 5 days and at the time was the dumbest thing he’s ever said to me and a month later when I was 2 days into finding the issue I was laughing,,your channel is the best I’ve found on TH-cam Ty keep up the great content
Excellent video. I have this exact issue on my 2016 F350. I have been trying for 2 weeks to find the issue and this is tons if information in a (short and sweet ) amount of time. YOU DID AWESOME.
So I did find my issue because you gave me a good direction to go in. You showed the path the wiring was supposed to go in that I hadn’t known before. My issue wasn’t behind the headlight, but just before that in the wheel well. I had just looked at those wires but because I was not sure they had to do with that circuit I over looked that the wire had rubbed in two right where it touched the edge of the wheel well. The wires were exposed out of the sheathing and that wire was the one touching. I pulled down on it and it came right apart. I assimilated one of your lifetime repairs ;) and the rear running lights and license plate lights worked. Hallelujah!!! I was going to have to take it to the shop and they already had said just to start the diagnosis’ was $300.00. I REALLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to make that video. You did a great service to quite a few troubled FORD owners. God bless you.
Thank you so much for this video! Been to hell and back reading forums and watching other videos found this took the truck apart and boon there it was! 2012 f350 for reference
Damn 261 thousand on the OD. Good looking truck. My 13 has 168 thousand. This guy keeps her in the wind. Hard to believe no U joints, wheel bearings or EGR. My EGR clogged at 160 thousand.
Ford does make there manual nice. I fix Nissan's and they would never have disconnect bcm connection and power up circuit. But I will have to keep that in mind next time.
Awesome video. Ive watched quite a few now. Ive traced this harness and can not find where mine is pinched. However on the larger grey connector to the right above the shock tower mount a have a couple other wires wore through. None of these fixed my issue. Lol
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod OK i found the problem. Connector behind bumper on left chase, main connector for all back lights, parking light male prom was completely broke off. Kind of dissolved by rust. Took me about 45 minutes to pinpoint it. Your video did helped me quite a bit. I cleaned that connector, filled real good with dielectric grease, and made a bridge of y/b wire. Job done.
A-Rod, these are the problems that most people just live with. And yeah, the Ford PC/ED is well done and I have yet to find an issue it didn't cover. Have a good weekend Sir from up here in Canadur, -Adrenacyde
Hey Arod, I've got a 2011 F-250 Super Duty 6.7 4x4 Lariat crew short bed. My rear *brake* lights are INOP (and my trailer brake lights are also INOP when towing). Here is what IS operable: All turn signals (F&R), hazard lights, high stop lamp and backup / reverse lights. Based on both physical checking of fuses and relays as well as careful analysis of the wiring diagram (which, btw seems to make clear that the turn / stop / hazard uses 1 wire per side, for front and then again for rear) means that I don't have an open or short (although Forscan DTC says I do on both L and R turn / stop circuits - see below for exact DTC codes). My conclusion was BCM. So...I ordered a rebuilt BCM from Module Experts in Jacksonville. When it arrived I suspected it wasn't correct for my truck based on looking at the Ford part number compared to mine but installed it anyway. Once installed, the alarm goes off, all lights flash, multiple security warnings on the dash, and truck won't start. I *was* able to read from it using Forscan but could *not* write to it (error was something about "conditions aren't right" - which in hindsight made sense). But here's the crazy thing, even though I couldn't program it into the truck, the rear brake lights were now working! So, because I didn't want my truck to be non-driveable for a week while sending in my old BCM for repair, I turned to Peoria Ford in Arizona. They sourced a "4th gen" (aka the most up to date version of the BCM for my truck) for me. I installed it, programmed it successfully (truck now starts, runs, all functions work). However now I have some remaining problems besides the fact that the TPMS system still needs to be re-programmed (I have 5 DTC's related to that and the interior lights flash all the time when the truck is running - which I read is normal because of the TPMS) I have the following DTC's which I cannot clear: U2100:00-8A BCM Initial Configuration Not Complete (I assume this is due to TPMS not done yet?) U2200:55-0A Control Module Configuration Memory Corrupt | Fault Symptom: Not Configured B1182:55-8A TPMS | Fault Symptom: Not Configured (4) DTC's one each for LF, LR, RF, RR TPMS Sensors Not Programmed B132B:15-0A Left Stop/Turn Lamp | Fault Symptom: Circuit Short to Battery or Open B132C:15-0A Right Stop/Turn Lamp | Fault Symptom: Circuit Short to Battery or Open Any ideas on how I can resolve these DTC's and ultimately get my rear brake lights working again (and trailer brake lights) P.S. Several other things of note: 1) I periodically get a warning on the dash while driving / towing about a trailer wiring fault - comes and goes, only comes on once each time the truck is started 2) I've periodically had a DTC re: trailer tow module, which I assume is related to #1 above 3) I've already replaced: Brake Switch, Steering Control Module, Hazard Switch 4) I've checked multiple times, every fuse that could possibly have anything to do with any of this - found no blown fuses, ever, plus the new 4th gen BCM came with all new fuses from Ford. 5) Swapped out relays for turn signals / trailer tow (no change) and besides, the turn signals and hazards all work which utilize the same relays as for stop lamps / brake lights 6) With this new 4th gen BCM, I initially had a DTC that said that high stop lamp was pulling too much current and Forscan suspected incorrect bulb - I've since changed the bulb to an LED 7) I've read that rear brake lights INOP can be caused by too much current draw from incandescent lamps (and typically you'd see a DTC - which I've never had), so I've changed both rear Turn / Stop bulbs to LED (also changed both reverse light bulbs to LED as well) just to see - still same behavior as outlined above 8) Ever since installing and programming the new 4th Gen module, my turn signals (both sides) flash very fast) like there's a bulb out. Spoiler, there's not. 9) I am using the current version of Forscan as of 9/19/21 with Forscan's approved / recommended USB adapter, on a Win 10 machine that is fully patched up and I've made sure the adapter is running the latest firmware and drivers 10) I do have an SCT tuner with a tune in the PCM. Said tune was in the PCM at the beginning of the BCM swapping and is still in there. Any chance I need to first revert to stock tune, and then re-program the new BCM? 11) 4th Gen BCM purchased from Peoria Ford: • Ford P/N: DC3T-14B476-DC • Ford Kit P/N: DC3T-14C442-BE • Module number on outside of box BCM came in: DC3Z-15604-C 1X (under this number: 5390838 next to a barcode) • Large Letter in upper right of sticker w/ above part numbers on it: D Original BCM numbers: (this BCM was in the truck when I purchased it used) • Ford P/N: BC3T-14B476-DJ • Ford Kit P/N: BC3T-15604-DF • Large Letter in upper right of sticker w/ above part numbers on it: D Incorrect Module from Module Experts (that when installed, refused to program to truck, but caused the brake lights to work!) • Ford P/N: BC3T-14B476-DJ • Ford Kit P/N: BL3T-15604-BG • Large Letter in upper right of sticker w/ above part numbers on it: B Finally: Do I need to have my PCM flashed up to match up with this new 4th gen BCM? I'm out of ideas. I've been riding for over a month with no brake lights, I tow regularly and would really like to get them working. Not safe driving like this.
Holyeee bajesus! To answer in the comment section would be too long. Brother my videos are free my time is not. If you want to get down on diag you'll have 2 email me and hit the ATM
I started seeing water soluble wire on other makes a few years back. I'm in TX so no or very little salt or mag chloride here but I see chafed wires disintegrate. Had not seen anything like it before in 40 years of wrenching except on trucks carrying fertilizers or other corrosives. Makes me wonder if they alloyed the wire when copper went up in price so much a few years back.
Great repair service! Having the right tools for the job makes a world of difference! Question: I have a 2005 f350 with the “Jellybean” mirrors, I bought 2008 OEM mirrors to update my truck. Does Ford make pigtails for the connection or do I have cut the connector off my old mirrors & reconnect each wire from the ‘08 wire harness to my ‘05 connector? Thanks for all you do making your videos! I learned a lot from your channel!
Info. On all my trailer wiring (especially boat trailers) I solider the connections then silicone the solder connection then push heat shrink tubing over that and heat with heat gun. The excess silicone squeezes out. Solid waterproof connection. My qualifications? Air Force aircraft electrician. On trailers I have nothing but trouble with crimp connectors. Wires get oxidation, or corrosion or just pull apart.
Noice video brotha. I had a Subaru STI with similar issues. Believe it or not I like wiring issues. Love finding the problems everyone else gave up on.
Mirror marker lights quit working on my 2016 F-250 when I bumped over some debris on a job site . It was just the front of truck before I backed up. I suspect it is the same sort of issue you just repaired. Where can I get the manual download? Great video!
Great info. I had a BCM go out on my 2011 F350 6.7L Crew Cab during hunting season in 2017. My issue was different than what the Ford tech's had seen before with a bad BCM. Instead of the running lights not coming on, mine would not shut off. Other than that, I have not had any issues with that truck. I have used your tips to get ahead of future issues, and corrected most of the potential chaff/rub points on the trucks harnesses. I still have that 2011 and have added a 2019 F350 6.7L Crew Cab to the stable. What issues are you seeing with that model year?
I dunno about them Superduties but my gasser '98 F150 4.6 just rolled half a million kilometers...I know not all that much in miles but hell...Ford CAN make a reliable vehicle. Oh and other than the odd alternator or idler pulley...A/C compressor and oil...that engine is still unopened and stock!
6.7 2016 F250 So front running lights are not working, but lights in the mirrors are, for the front. Running lights are completely out in the back including the trailer running lights. Turning signals front and back work brake lights work and reversing rights. I cant find a blown fuse. Any advice? I have pulled the headlight and checked for that wiring issue, everything checked out.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i found a wire to the tail light that was grounded. fixed it and replaced fuse all is good. Great info in the video tho thanks
AROD I think I may have the exact same issue. When my break pedal is depressed the tail lights come on (not the brake lights) but not when the headlights are on. When the headlights are on nothing in the rear works. In addition, when I engage the turn signals the fronts work but the rear tail lights both flash. oh and when I click the lock button on the remote, all the rear lights flash even the licence plate lights. I'm checking things out tomorrow. Thanks and I have my ears on if you have any thoughts. Yes I have Cash App. :)
I don't have front markers or rear tails, but my brake lights work, as welll as my signals and running lights on my 2011 F250..sound like same issue as shown in video?
I’m having The same problem on my 2002 F3 50 I’ve been all over the truck many times check the fuses 10 times connections in the rear tail lights license plate lights everything I have brake tail light and back up that all work and when you hook up a trailer to it those lights work on the trailer for running but my truck tail lights do not work I just seen your video I hope it’s the same on my 2002 as the fifthTeen that you worked on this information is hard to find I hope it’s my problem
I have the same problem with my 2005 f250 6.0, 15a fuse always blows everytime I close my tailgate or when I hit a bump or pothole, tail lights, license plate, and cluster lights go out. Blinker works stop lights work. Just don’t stay on while driving at night.I saw that my trailer connections we’re corroded and I cleaned them up reinstalled and lights worked again until the fuse blew up that same day and now I gotta trace a short. I looked everywhere and no info out there. I tried the same thing as you but we have total different harnesses that it’s impossible to duplicate what you did on my truck. Let me know for some tips and advices on what to look for thanks
I ran a jumper to my plug and the tail lights came on so would that mean the bcm needs to be replaced in the passenger foot well or is there another one in a different location?
Have a 2019 Ford E450, need to know which fuses to check for the running lights and the power mirrors. The fuse box is the one with 1-10 at the top of the diagram Greatly appreciated to know which number fuses I need to check.
I’ve got a 6.7 that I am so far happy with. But I was wondering if I could ask you a question. Is it possible for me to bring my truck to you? I would like to verify if I have typewriter tick or something else going on.
Good afternoon AROD where is your shop located. I need a mechanic like you to fix my 2017 ford f250 superduty 6.7 diesel electrical problem with my lights. Good info video!!!!
I have a 2008 F250 and the only lights not working are the tow mirror marker lights...ever found a specific spot that the wires are prone to wear? Have you seen this problem before?
Well crap...lol. I'll have to start digging and see if I can find it. I have continuity thru the wires and the bulbs are good. I'm wondering if maybe it's not connected to the light switch
Bad ass video Rod. We have a 2006 F650 and the brake Caliper damaged the rotor but I have to torque the hub nut can you help out with torque procedure and torque specs Thanks .
I have an issue with a 2015f550 flat bed I have no clearance light or parking light at all not rear not front not on top of cab or mirrors. I tried to use some of your techniques to guide my self. My 40 and 30 fuse have no power both were melted and switch them and still no power. Just curious is used my power probe on both fuses and pass power I got lights. Then I disconnected both connectors D and E and pass power and I got to turn on rear and then front….I’m sort of stuck I’m thinking that it’s going to be the BCM could that be the problem ??? Another thing is on the connector C on the BCM two pins have corrosion too….Any advice?
Shoot I wish I’m from Texas I started working for my self I was doing more heavy duty diesel but I got this company that brings all their fords 350-550 so now I started doing light duty diesels im more into heavy duty I’ve been getting a little more familiar with them but I’m kinda stuck on this one
Ford should do a better job preventing chafe points. On the other hand, this truck has a lot of miles and made it this far. Relatively easy fix, and done well.
I have no tail lights, however I do have license plate lights??? Is there a fuse to check? I see nothing in the fuse panel that says tail lamps, parking lamps, or tail lights? These are the only lights that do not work. Rear brake lights, turn signals, and hazard lights all operate as they should. Another point is that when I am towing a trailer, all trailer lights work properly including tail lights. I am at a loss!
I have a 2013 f350 6.7l all my running lights work besides the rear my rear license plate light works but not the rear tail running lights? Any suggestions would help thank you
So I’m having the same issues but fuse 30 15a keeps blowing when I turn on my light ? I’ve removed the wire harness you tested in the video and when I turn on my headlights the fuse does not blow. It only blows when it’s connected to the bcm. I’ve also checked for a wire that might be peeled but nothing that I can find. Any suggestions??
I don’t know how people rack up so many miles on their vehicles. Diesel fuel is 5 dollars a gallon here in western Canada. I only drive my 05 6.0 to and from work. I’ve got 230,000km 143,000 miles on the clock. On average I put 18000km 11,000 miles a year.
I can't even begin to tell you just how much help this has been. I work for a company that builds custom flatbeds for trucks and we also do repair, I can't even tell you how many of these trucks I've had to tell the customer there's nothing I can do because of this exact issue. And the problem worsens since the Ford dealerships in our area refuse to work on trucks that have aftermarket beds on them. Whit this info I think I'll be able to troubleshoot and either remedy or point the owner in the right direction for what needs to be done. Thanks so much this has been the bane of my existence for the past 9-10 years.
Wow, juss saw this
🎉😢😢🎉😢
This diagnosis solved the issue I had with my rear tail lights. The 10:00 mark where the wires are cut by the conduit is exactly what happened to my 2016 F250SD. Moving the conduit caused the wire ends to touch completing circuit. The repair took about 30 minutes. I thank you so very much for your help.
Thank me with a donation to my channel
Excellent job. I had the same issue with my F450 2015, and I'm going to watch your video again to help me fix this issue. Thanks for sharing
I love you bro. I have an 11 f350 lariat with a Hillsboro aluminum flatbed I do field work on heavy equipment for different railroads and when I was leaving a site last night at 6 I noticed it. Had this same issue where the dozen or so lights on the bed didn’t light up. Signals and brake lights worked but the parking lights didn’t. Pulled over because nobody wants a ticket. Checked fuses, all good then prayed to the google gods that there was a free/legible wiring diagram. Then I found you, my guardian angel. Put my circuit tester on pin 6 and sure enough it was open. Had it back up in 15 minutes. Then I drove 4 hours home 🙃
💙🫂💙🫂💙🫂🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡
My buddy said electricrical trouble is the 555 rule it could take 5minutes 5 hours 5 days and at the time was the dumbest thing he’s ever said to me and a month later when I was 2 days into finding the issue I was laughing,,your channel is the best I’ve found on TH-cam Ty keep up the great content
God daayyym! Nice find. I’ve also done countless crimp lifetime connections, never had a problem. Rarely use solder
Excellent video. I have this exact issue on my 2016 F350. I have been trying for 2 weeks to find the issue and this is tons if information in a (short and sweet ) amount of time. YOU DID AWESOME.
So I did find my issue because you gave me a good direction to go in. You showed the path the wiring was supposed to go in that I hadn’t known before. My issue wasn’t behind the headlight, but just before that in the wheel well. I had just looked at those wires but because I was not sure they had to do with that circuit I over looked that the wire had rubbed in two right where it touched the edge of the wheel well. The wires were exposed out of the sheathing and that wire was the one touching. I pulled down on it and it came right apart. I assimilated one of your lifetime repairs ;) and the rear running lights and license plate lights worked. Hallelujah!!! I was going to have to take it to the shop and they already had said just to start the diagnosis’ was $300.00. I REALLY APPRECIATE you taking the time to make that video. You did a great service to quite a few troubled FORD owners. God bless you.
I appreciate you
Man this video was perfectly done you really did a great job presenting yourself and being very educational and explanatory keep up the good work
I have a 2012 F350SD with the same issue! If it wasn't for this post I would have taken it to the dealer. Thank you so much for the video!
My man!! Keep it locked to the channel sonny
Thank you so much for this video! Been to hell and back reading forums and watching other videos found this took the truck apart and boon there it was! 2012 f350 for reference
Wooooooowooooooo
The comment about the solder ..... Too funny! Nice work
Dude
Great job.
I've been trying to fix these tail lights for 2 weeks.
I owe you a beer 😎
Damn 261 thousand on the OD. Good looking truck. My 13 has 168 thousand. This guy keeps her in the wind. Hard to believe no U joints, wheel bearings or EGR. My EGR clogged at 160 thousand.
Yepp i knw
Great info. Now I am going to go check that on my 2013.
Ford does make there manual nice. I fix Nissan's and they would never have disconnect bcm connection and power up circuit. But I will have to keep that in mind next time.
Great Job, found my problem as soon as i removed the inner fender, keep up these great videos
Hell yea
BROOOO!!! Thank you for this video I literally just did this and it was right friggin there!!! Thank you so much
Another very good instructional video, thank you. Sure wish you were my local dealership tech.
Thanks buddy, meeeee tooooo
Thank
You for this information I will
Check the wiring by the front tire thanks again
Man thanks alot for your video. I fix my tailigh, abs and traction control problems because of your video. Great 👍👌👍
My man, hell yeah bud...stay locked to the #1 Ford Superduty channel on the net
Awesome video. Ive watched quite a few now.
Ive traced this harness and can not find where mine is pinched. However on the larger grey connector to the right above the shock tower mount a have a couple other wires wore through. None of these fixed my issue. Lol
I had a similar issue and it was a corroded harness connection by the spare tire passenger side . I chopped it out and solder the wires together .
👍👍👍👍
Great channel. Thanks for the informative videos.
good find and repair. i have to tackle this same issue in the morning and this video helped me alots. let see where my problem lies.
Make sure to like and subscribe at 10000 subs I'm doing a giveaway send me an email and I'll shoot you out some PTT stickers
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod OK i found the problem. Connector behind bumper on left chase, main connector for all back lights, parking light male prom was completely broke off. Kind of dissolved by rust. Took me about 45 minutes to pinpoint it. Your video did helped me quite a bit. I cleaned that connector, filled real good with dielectric grease, and made a bridge of y/b wire. Job done.
just wanted to thank you! this came my way and sure enough rub through l f wheel well saved me much time!
Hell yea
Thanks for the information very good video it solve my issues 👍👍
A-Rod, these are the problems that most people just live with. And yeah, the Ford PC/ED is well done and I have yet to find an issue it didn't cover.
Have a good weekend Sir from up here in Canadur,
-Adrenacyde
My mann!!
Great video !! Very informative.
Thx for the heads up, love the videos man
Homie arod killing the diagnostics game one truck at a time. Yee yee two times.
Hey budarooski!
Right on time bro
Brilliant. Your problem solving skills are amazing. Ill bet your to go to guy at the dealership for the tough issues.
👍👍😉😉
Hey Arod, I've got a 2011 F-250 Super Duty 6.7 4x4 Lariat crew short bed. My rear *brake* lights are INOP (and my trailer brake lights are also INOP when towing). Here is what IS operable: All turn signals (F&R), hazard lights, high stop lamp and backup / reverse lights. Based on both physical checking of fuses and relays as well as careful analysis of the wiring diagram (which, btw seems to make clear that the turn / stop / hazard uses 1 wire per side, for front and then again for rear) means that I don't have an open or short (although Forscan DTC says I do on both L and R turn / stop circuits - see below for exact DTC codes).
My conclusion was BCM. So...I ordered a rebuilt BCM from Module Experts in Jacksonville. When it arrived I suspected it wasn't correct for my truck based on looking at the Ford part number compared to mine but installed it anyway. Once installed, the alarm goes off, all lights flash, multiple security warnings on the dash, and truck won't start. I *was* able to read from it using Forscan but could *not* write to it (error was something about "conditions aren't right" - which in hindsight made sense). But here's the crazy thing, even though I couldn't program it into the truck, the rear brake lights were now working! So, because I didn't want my truck to be non-driveable for a week while sending in my old BCM for repair, I turned to Peoria Ford in Arizona. They sourced a "4th gen" (aka the most up to date version of the BCM for my truck) for me. I installed it, programmed it successfully (truck now starts, runs, all functions work). However now I have some remaining problems besides the fact that the TPMS system still needs to be re-programmed (I have 5 DTC's related to that and the interior lights flash all the time when the truck is running - which I read is normal because of the TPMS) I have the following DTC's which I cannot clear:
U2100:00-8A BCM Initial Configuration Not Complete (I assume this is due to TPMS not done yet?)
U2200:55-0A Control Module Configuration Memory Corrupt | Fault Symptom: Not Configured
B1182:55-8A TPMS | Fault Symptom: Not Configured
(4) DTC's one each for LF, LR, RF, RR TPMS Sensors Not Programmed
B132B:15-0A Left Stop/Turn Lamp | Fault Symptom: Circuit Short to Battery or Open
B132C:15-0A Right Stop/Turn Lamp | Fault Symptom: Circuit Short to Battery or Open
Any ideas on how I can resolve these DTC's and ultimately get my rear brake lights working again (and trailer brake lights)
P.S. Several other things of note:
1) I periodically get a warning on the dash while driving / towing about a trailer wiring fault - comes and goes, only comes on once each time the truck is started
2) I've periodically had a DTC re: trailer tow module, which I assume is related to #1 above
3) I've already replaced: Brake Switch, Steering Control Module, Hazard Switch
4) I've checked multiple times, every fuse that could possibly have anything to do with any of this - found no blown fuses, ever, plus the new 4th gen BCM came with all new fuses from Ford.
5) Swapped out relays for turn signals / trailer tow (no change) and besides, the turn signals and hazards all work which utilize the same relays as for stop lamps / brake lights
6) With this new 4th gen BCM, I initially had a DTC that said that high stop lamp was pulling too much current and Forscan suspected incorrect bulb - I've since changed the bulb to an LED
7) I've read that rear brake lights INOP can be caused by too much current draw from incandescent lamps (and typically you'd see a DTC - which I've never had), so I've changed both rear Turn / Stop bulbs to LED (also changed both reverse light bulbs to LED as well) just to see - still same behavior as outlined above
8) Ever since installing and programming the new 4th Gen module, my turn signals (both sides) flash very fast) like there's a bulb out. Spoiler, there's not.
9) I am using the current version of Forscan as of 9/19/21 with Forscan's approved / recommended USB adapter, on a Win 10 machine that is fully patched up and I've made sure the adapter is running the latest firmware and drivers
10) I do have an SCT tuner with a tune in the PCM. Said tune was in the PCM at the beginning of the BCM swapping and is still in there. Any chance I need to first revert to stock tune, and then re-program the new BCM?
11) 4th Gen BCM purchased from Peoria Ford:
• Ford P/N: DC3T-14B476-DC
• Ford Kit P/N: DC3T-14C442-BE
• Module number on outside of box BCM came in: DC3Z-15604-C 1X (under this number: 5390838 next to a barcode)
• Large Letter in upper right of sticker w/ above part numbers on it: D
Original BCM numbers: (this BCM was in the truck when I purchased it used)
• Ford P/N: BC3T-14B476-DJ
• Ford Kit P/N: BC3T-15604-DF
• Large Letter in upper right of sticker w/ above part numbers on it: D
Incorrect Module from Module Experts (that when installed, refused to program to truck, but caused the brake lights to work!)
• Ford P/N: BC3T-14B476-DJ
• Ford Kit P/N: BL3T-15604-BG
• Large Letter in upper right of sticker w/ above part numbers on it: B
Finally: Do I need to have my PCM flashed up to match up with this new 4th gen BCM? I'm out of ideas. I've been riding for over a month with no brake lights, I tow regularly and would really like to get them working. Not safe driving like this.
Holyeee bajesus! To answer in the comment section would be too long. Brother my videos are free my time is not. If you want to get down on diag you'll have 2 email me and hit the ATM
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod what's the email addy?
Never mind I just emailed you
Nice, as usual! Man that would royally suck if it was any further in towards the BCM! If that run of the harness had to be replaced... uggh.
I started seeing water soluble wire on other makes a few years back. I'm in TX so no or very little salt or mag chloride here but I see chafed wires disintegrate. Had not seen anything like it before in 40 years of wrenching except on trucks carrying fertilizers or other corrosives. Makes me wonder if they alloyed the wire when copper went up in price so much a few years back.
Great repair service! Having the right tools for the job makes a world of difference!
Question: I have a 2005 f350 with the “Jellybean” mirrors, I bought 2008 OEM mirrors to update my truck. Does Ford make pigtails for the connection or do I have cut the connector off my old mirrors & reconnect each wire from the ‘08 wire harness to my ‘05 connector?
Thanks for all you do making your videos! I learned a lot from your channel!
No pigtail, maybe aftermarket but yeah you'd hafta wire it up
Thanks!
Info. On all my trailer wiring (especially boat trailers) I solider the connections then silicone the solder connection then push heat shrink tubing over that and heat with heat gun. The excess silicone squeezes out. Solid waterproof connection.
My qualifications? Air Force aircraft electrician.
On trailers I have nothing but trouble with crimp connectors. Wires get oxidation, or corrosion or just pull apart.
I make life time connections. Never had a problem
Exselete diagnostic amigo. Good. Nice video
Gracias
Of course it right. Done by the A-Rod
Good find Bro! Have a great 4th of July. I think I'll go up to Daytona next week end.
Thanks u2 buddy
Noice video brotha. I had a Subaru STI with similar issues. Believe it or not I like wiring issues. Love finding the problems everyone else gave up on.
Me too, eureka!
Mirror marker lights quit working on my 2016 F-250 when I bumped over some debris on a job site . It was just the front of truck before I backed up. I suspect it is the same sort of issue you just repaired. Where can I get the manual download? Great video!
Thanks Gary. The public can go to motorcraft.com & buy the time you need to access the manuals
Great info. I had a BCM go out on my 2011 F350 6.7L Crew Cab during hunting season in 2017. My issue was different than what the Ford tech's had seen before with a bad BCM. Instead of the running lights not coming on, mine would not shut off. Other than that, I have not had any issues with that truck. I have used your tips to get ahead of future issues, and corrected most of the potential chaff/rub points on the trucks harnesses. I still have that 2011 and have added a 2019 F350 6.7L Crew Cab to the stable. What issues are you seeing with that model year?
Wow thats awesome!! 2019, not too many things so far..check my 19 videos.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thanks. I must say so far so good on the 2019. 7000 miles and lovin' it!
I dunno about them Superduties but my gasser '98 F150 4.6 just rolled half a million kilometers...I know not all that much in miles but hell...Ford CAN make a reliable vehicle. Oh and other than the odd alternator or idler pulley...A/C compressor and oil...that engine is still unopened and stock!
Im rollin a 98 4.2 f150....5spd 2wd. 112,500 all oe except for fp and rear wheel cylinders. Love my Ford trucks 😍
I HAVE SAME ISSUE WITH MY 2018 F250 NOW. HOPE I CAN FIX ISSUE. THANKS FOR VIDEO. JUST SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR CHANNEL.
Welcome my friend
6.7 2016 F250
So front running lights are not working, but lights in the mirrors are, for the front. Running lights are completely out in the back including the trailer running lights. Turning signals front and back work
brake lights work
and reversing rights.
I cant find a blown fuse. Any advice? I have pulled the headlight and checked for that wiring issue, everything checked out.
Gotta get the pin point test for those circuits
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i found a wire to the tail light that was grounded. fixed it and replaced fuse all is good. Great info in the video tho thanks
Boom now thats whats up friend
AROD I think I may have the exact same issue. When my break pedal is depressed the tail lights come on (not the brake lights) but not when the headlights are on. When the headlights are on nothing in the rear works. In addition, when I engage the turn signals the fronts work but the rear tail lights both flash. oh and when I click the lock button on the remote, all the rear lights flash even the licence plate lights. I'm checking things out tomorrow. Thanks and I have my ears on if you have any thoughts. Yes I have Cash App. :)
Gotta get down on diag time
I don't have front markers or rear tails, but my brake lights work, as welll as my signals and running lights on my 2011 F250..sound like same issue as shown in video?
Could be....
Opinion on a good heat shrink butt connector (Like E-Volt's) vs this non-insulated connector with adhesive heat shrink?
I love the way i did it, it saves room if your doin multiple circuits at once, cheap & ensures I make life time connections
Spot on
I’m having The same problem on my 2002 F3 50 I’ve been all over the truck many times check the fuses 10 times connections in the rear tail lights license plate lights everything I have brake tail light and back up that all work and when you hook up a trailer to it those lights work on the trailer for running but my truck tail lights do not work I just seen your video I hope it’s the same on my 2002 as the fifthTeen that you worked on this information is hard to find I hope it’s my problem
Not even close to yours broski......
I have the same problem with my 2005 f250 6.0, 15a fuse always blows everytime I close my tailgate or when I hit a bump or pothole, tail lights, license plate, and cluster lights go out. Blinker works stop lights work. Just don’t stay on while driving at night.I saw that my trailer connections we’re corroded and I cleaned them up reinstalled and lights worked again until the fuse blew up that same day and now I gotta trace a short. I looked everywhere and no info out there. I tried the same thing as you but we have total different harnesses that it’s impossible to duplicate what you did on my truck. Let me know for some tips and advices on what to look for thanks
I duno bro...closin that t gate might b a clue
Nicely done video!
Thanks buddy
Nice job 👏
I ran a jumper to my plug and the tail lights came on so would that mean the bcm needs to be replaced in the passenger foot well or is there another one in a different location?
Have a 2019 Ford E450, need to know which fuses to check for the running lights and the power mirrors. The fuse box is the one with 1-10 at the top of the diagram Greatly appreciated to know which number fuses I need to check.
The diagram is in the owners manual
I’ve got a 6.7 that I am so far happy with. But I was wondering if I could ask you a question. Is it possible for me to bring my truck to you? I would like to verify if I have typewriter tick or something else going on.
Yes u can. Chk me IG or gimmie ur email
Black88stang@yahoo.com
Good afternoon AROD where is your shop located. I need a mechanic like you to fix my 2017 ford f250 superduty 6.7 diesel electrical problem with my lights. Good info video!!!!
Deeeetroit
I have a 2008 F250 and the only lights not working are the tow mirror marker lights...ever found a specific spot that the wires are prone to wear?
Have you seen this problem before?
Nope not for both mirrors, haven't had the pleasure yet!
Well crap...lol. I'll have to start digging and see if I can find it. I have continuity thru the wires and the bulbs are good. I'm wondering if maybe it's not connected to the light switch
Hmmm
Man I understand why u love fords, they keep your salary at top shelf 🤣🤣
Is the workshop manual/Diagrams part of IDS - or a separate program?
Totally seperate. That is Ford's portal PTS/fmcdealer....don't know what I'd do without it! IDS is just the scan tool software on the lap top.
Bad ass video Rod. We have a 2006 F650 and the brake Caliper damaged the rotor but I have to torque the hub nut can you help out with torque procedure and torque specs Thanks .
Ok i will
I have an issue with a 2015f550 flat bed I have no clearance light or parking light at all not rear not front not on top of cab or mirrors. I tried to use some of your techniques to guide my self. My 40 and 30 fuse have no power both were melted and switch them and still no power. Just curious is used my power probe on both fuses and pass power I got lights. Then I disconnected both connectors D and E and pass power and I got to turn on rear and then front….I’m sort of stuck I’m thinking that it’s going to be the BCM could that be the problem ??? Another thing is on the connector C on the BCM two pins have corrosion too….Any advice?
Bring it to my shop
Shoot I wish I’m from Texas I started working for my self I was doing more heavy duty diesel but I got this company that brings all their fords 350-550 so now I started doing light duty diesels im more into heavy duty I’ve been getting a little more familiar with them but I’m kinda stuck on this one
Ford should do a better job preventing chafe points. On the other hand, this truck has a lot of miles and made it this far. Relatively easy fix, and done well.
there is a blue wire with red strip in the same bundle. Could you possibly tell em what it is for.
I don't know what it's for.....
I have no tail lights, however I do have license plate lights??? Is there a fuse to check? I see nothing in the fuse panel that says tail lamps, parking lamps, or tail lights? These are the only lights that do not work. Rear brake lights, turn signals, and hazard lights all operate as they should. Another point is that when I am towing a trailer, all trailer lights work properly including tail lights. I am at a loss!
Sounds like u need to get some diag done
You da man 💪💪💪
Thanks Freddy
Having that problem now and can’t find the problem I’m in North Dakota and don’t know anyone
Sry pal
I have a 2013 f350 6.7l all my running lights work besides the rear my rear license plate light works but not the rear tail running lights? Any suggestions would help thank you
It could be a wire, a module. You'd have to book an appointment for me to tell you..
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod was a broke wire in the rear where the plugs split video was great help thank you
What did you charge the customer and is that website free? I have an 06 f350 and I can not find the issue
Motorcraftservice.com
Any chance this is the same for a 2018 f550 diesel? I have the same issue.
Nah 17-current are different that 11-16s
So I’m having the same issues but fuse 30 15a keeps blowing when I turn on my light ? I’ve removed the wire harness you tested in the video and when I turn on my headlights the fuse does not blow. It only blows when it’s connected to the bcm. I’ve also checked for a wire that might be peeled but nothing that I can find. Any suggestions??
Well if it's blowing u have a short to ground. Ya gotta find it Goe
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod any tips on how to narrow down where it might be or should I just trace the damm yellow with blue wire 😫
U can email me & we'll book ya some time & go over it.
Driving an 06 f250 6.0 Powerstroke
have 2007 F550 with rear light issues, front work
...ok
where did you get the computer of ford information
2014 F-350 right rear running light only works in reverse and when doors are unlocked. I'm hoping you might have an idea.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 yea if i could look at the truck....
@PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod where you at? I'll bring it over
Detroit, lets do it
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod California. I'll just buy a new truck. 😄
I have a guy in LA!
I don’t know how people rack up so many miles on their vehicles. Diesel fuel is 5 dollars a gallon here in western Canada. I only drive my 05 6.0 to and from work. I’ve got 230,000km 143,000 miles on the clock. On average I put 18000km 11,000 miles a year.
Not unusual for the RV transport/delivery people to rack up 60K miles per year on their trucks.
what if they illuminate with the jumper wire? what is number 7?
Im not following ya bro, old asf vid
My lights are out where’s your shop, I’m on the way
Deeetwaaaah
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod no tail lights or mirror lights no license plate light
Ok come see me
what is the name of the manual to able to purchase it?
I dont believe they have 1 for purchase
👍
What if ur diagnostic port stop working
How would that be.
I have the same problem but when I do the power probe to the plug I have lights what is the next step
We wld have 2 sit down
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod what we talkin
My content is FREE, my time is not. If you wanna get down, you will have to email me, (which is on my channel) & book some time with us.
What is the part number for the 6 leaker tape?
Ooooo not sure. I know it came in a kit from Ford but it didnt have its own part number...
Dang. Do you have the kit P/N handy?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod What was the kit for?
i just subed
So no solder?
Naw, nope. Literally make all my electrical circuit repairs just like this for yeeeeaarrs. Never have had any come back.
I was kidding 😂
Where else is a possibility I’m trying to find it and it’s not there
Gotta pin poi t test the circuits
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod can I get the ford software or do you have to be a company?
U can..$,$$$
Should use heat gun. Much safer.
It that a website I can use?
If you buy access
Good video, what a pain in the ass , what u have to do to find the problem. Thanks for the heads up
First
Thanks for watching guy
Fca is way better