SHARP THING Thanks. I clicked on a knife review and somehow a mistake happened and I got a weather and traffic report. Weird. Won't be viewing this channel again.
Sorry, posted before finishing. Anyway, 1st and 2nd click pronounced on both my Aus8 and D2. Also, have an older RAT with the old triangle logo on blade and clip, and it too has the double click. Not saying your Aus8 doesn't have both clicks, but would really appreciate if you would further investigate and post your findings. Thanks again for an informative video!
I haven't seen D2 rust, i still got the one with a coated blade to prevent premature rusting - just in case. But yeah, D2 holds a razor edge for a long time.
My d2 rat 1 did suffer from pitting after alot meat prep despite cleaning without dismantling. D2 I find is a sod to get a surgical edge on despite having a large black Arkansas stone, a very hard steel. Think I may try a diamond system rather than my waterstones as I now have a few d2 blades to deal with.
Thanks for putting out this video. I have been looking at getting a Ontario RTAK II, but had never looked at their folding knives. I like their pricing, puts them in the same territory as a Kershaw, which is what I use now.
I do believe you are correct. My source was from BladeOps blog.bladeops.com/review-of-aus-8-stainless-steel.html which states the chromium is 1.5%. A second source www.crkt.com/steel-facts/ does state the chromium is 13 - 14.5%. My apologies and good catch, thanks.
Guess I love the rough part that you don't like. Gives a good grip. Definitely an area people could vary significantly opinion wise. I definitely love the rat though. Nice knife, opens easy, and good steel options. D2 is rust resistant and just barely under the stainless category which is why many don't complain about rust. I have an aus8 and it seems great and keep thinking to get a D2.
Very nice review. Regarding "added ball bearing" (2nd click on opening), not sure that is correct, at least not on mine. 1st and 2nd click if pronounced
The Ontario RAT-1 is a superb knife! i have 8 of them, several AUS-8 models both full sized and the compact RAT-2 and a full sized D2 blade model. every one came perfectly assembled with excellent fit and finish, perfectly centered blades and razor sharp, with buttery smooth actions and rock solid lockup at 50% engagement depth. They have superb ergonomics and are one of thr most capable and versatile knives ever made. i love them all but im especially partial to my D2 bladed model. its edge holding equals knives costing 4 to 6 times its cost. you cant go wrong with a RAT!
Tim Nichol: I think you are correct. Good catch. However, both my Aus8 and D2 have the 2nd "click". Also have a Rat 2 with the old Randal Triangle on the blade. It too has the 2nd click. No idea what's going on but certainly not a deal breaker! All is my Rats perform flawlessly.
I'd be curious to see your thoughts on a slightly more modern folder compared to the Rat. Something akin to a spyderco Manix 2 or Paramilitary, or perhaps a benchmade bugout or griptillian.
Enjoy joy your snow, glad to see someone is enjoying it, up here in Canada we are sick of it and can't wait for it to be gone. where is the global warming? lol. The knives you have are NICE!!
Flip knives are the worst possible choice for prepping, or almost anything else. They're nearly useless. As someone once said, "A flip knife is for the fool who wants cool instead of tool." There is nothing, not one thing, a flip knife can do that a twenty dollar Stockman can't do, but there are at least a dozen things the Stockman can do that no flip knife can even attempt. D2 steel is very seldom hard. It often runs at 57 Rockwell. It holds an edge and is hard to sharpen because it has very high abrasion resistance, not because it's hard. Buck made the 110 from D2 for a time, but stopped when so many users sent the knives back because they couldn't sharpen them without a diamond stone. Over the long term, a diamond stone takes years off the life of a knife because it sharpens by slicing metal away, rather than by simple abrasion. A far better choice of steels is s30v. It's better than D2 in every category, and is getting much cheaper, but it's still more expensive than D2. But flip knives are almost all silly in the best of times, and any tactical style knife is as silly as it gets. If you're going to use a pocketknife that has only one blade, then buy fixed blade knives instead. They do a far better job. The value of a pocketknife is to have more than one blade. Two is good, as on a Trapper. Three is even better, as on a Stockman. You look old enough to know this. Even a fifteen dollar Stockman can do a dozen things a thousand dollar flip knife can't even attempt. One blade on a pocketknife is the same thing as having a horrible fixed blade knife. Just buy a really good fixed blade. But two. A smaller one for carving and routine tasks, and a big one for skinning game and the like. Do not sharpen any of them at a ten or eleven degree angle. That's more TH-cam silliness. Such an angle is great for impressing friends by shaving hair off your forearm, but it's the worst angle possible for a working knife. You look old enough to know this, too. A pocketknife should be sharpened at fifteen degrees, a kitchen knife at seventeen, a general, all around use knife at twenty, and a big fixed blade at twenty-four or twenty-five. These angles will allow you to cut anything you want to cut, and the edge will last from two to five times as long, depending on which angle it is. If you aren't going to shave with your knife, aren't going to perform surgery with your knife, and don't plan on sitting around cutting paper all day, have a shaving bevel on your knife is not only silly, it's dangerous in a survival situation, or in a true SHTF situation. Every task that requires a shaving angle has a specialized tool to do that job, be it a razor, a scalpel, a dedicated carving knife, or a common box cutter. Sharpening your knife at an angle required for doing things your knife will never have to do is just not smart. Though this is another advantage of a real pocketknife. Woodsmen often keep one of the three blades on a stockman, always the smallest blade, razor sharp, just in case they do have to shave hair from around a wound, or even perform surgery to get something out of an injured person when medical help isn't available. But putting a tenor eleven degree bevel on every knife, you are greatly limiting what that knife can do, you're making the edge wear down faster, and you're shortening the life of the blade. Al for nothing. knife with a twenty-four degree bevel is just as sharp as a knife with a ten degree bevel. The reason it won't shave hair ie because it has a lot more metal right behind the edge. These are all things that can save your life in a survival situation, or in a SHTF situation. Only on TH-cam is everyone disappoint when a knife isn't razor "sharp" right out of the box. They don't even understand what sharp is. Sharp is the condition of the edge, not whether the knife will shave hair. Sharp is whether the good edge will cut the things that knife needs to cut. Period. It's as easy to skin a moose with a twenty-four degree bevel as with a ten degree bevel. Easier, really, because you won't have to stop and sharpen halfway through the job, or even on the next moose. But get over TH-cam culture. Learn what real woodsmen do, not what TH-cam incest teaches. There are real woodsmen on TH-cam, but few pay attention to them because they haven't lived with Tv cameras around them, or haven't been in the military where people learn even sillier things about knives that they do on TH-cam. Though at least most military knives are sharpened at somewhat more intelligent angles. The Ka-Bar, for example, has a bevel angle of twenty degrees per side, which is perfect for a large fixed blade that may be called on to do almost anything. Except shave hair. If you want to shave with a Ka-Bar, be my guest. I do not. What's hilarious is that everyone I let test a Ka-Bar on normal tasks believes it is razor sharp because it cuts through wood and rope and hide and meat like soft clay. And it doesn't dull if it hits bone. It does these things because the edge on a twenty degree bevel is just as sharp as the edge on a ten degree bevel. Once people learn this, many of them have a light come on. Others have blown bulbs, and keep ruining knives and putting their lives at risk, or, at best, creating a lot of extra work for themselves, and wear out a good knife far too soon.
You obviously have too much time on your hands to write a bunch of garbage like you did. My brother is a green beret. Combat vet. He carried exactly what you went on a tear filled rant about. You're an idiot.
James Ritchie here’s a reason some people may prefer a pocket knife.. certain states such as North Carolina allow you to carry a pocket knife but can’t conceal carry a fixed blade of any type. A pocket knife is great for concealment and I don’t want to open carry a medium size fixed blade so everyone knows what I’ve got on me.
James Ritchie your assessment of optimal edge bevel is correct, the finer the edge gets, the easier it will fold over. What prevents it from folding over is the amount of "meat" (metal) behind it. The thinner it gets, the quicker the folds (or chips) will form. There is a sweet spot bevel angle for every application, no doubt. Grinding a utility knife down to the edge of a shaving razor is just bad karma, lol! That being said, insulting the guy who made the video about the fact he should be "old enough" to know this or that is not the way to go about it. I for one appreciate the video he made, as I too was debating the Rat 1 in D2. As for folders being "completely useless", I've carried a folder for probably 20 years now and found it useful in COUNTLESS situations. Agreed, nothing beats a fixed blade for strength (provided it's not some Chinesium pot metal fixed blade though, because they can snap or chip on you before you can say "holy shit", even faster than a half decent folder).... but large folders with strong liners and good blades + decent locks can definitely get you out of a jam, plus they take half the space when carried. Carrying a fixed blade on you at all times can be... problematic (and in most jurisdictions illegal). Q: What is the BEST survival knife or kit? A: The one that's going to be with you at ALL TIMES! ;)
![[Natalex] Ontario RAT 1 Сталь D2 поговорим почему так долго шел к покупке...](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ya3IPfkXFTg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Natalex] Ontario RAT 1 Сталь D2 поговорим почему так долго шел к покупке...](/img/tr.png)
Video starts at 2:50!
lol
SHARP THING Thanks. I clicked on a knife review and somehow a mistake happened and I got a weather and traffic report. Weird. Won't be viewing this channel again.
SHARP THING thanks. I wish more ppl would do that and save us the bs
Geez thank you
Nobody's holding you here, pal ...
Nice video, thank you. There are a lot of "angry steel experts" shitting on AUS-8 but personally Ive found it perfectly good.
Trust me. That’s not a lot of snow compared to northern Ontario Canada. I had no idea it even snowed in North Carolina.
there is no ball bearing . its the detent ball resting on the blade.
I was just going to say the same thing, I'm just 4 years too late lol✌
No ball bearing it's a detent that's there to hold the blade closed
Sorry, posted before finishing. Anyway, 1st and 2nd click pronounced on both my Aus8 and D2. Also, have an older RAT with the old triangle logo on blade and clip, and it too has the double click. Not saying your Aus8 doesn't have both clicks, but would really appreciate if you would further investigate and post your findings. Thanks again for an informative video!
I haven't seen D2 rust, i still got the one with a coated blade to prevent premature rusting - just in case. But yeah, D2 holds a razor edge for a long time.
I think that the D2 can improve the AUS 8 only if they HRC degree not up of 59.
My d2 rat 1 did suffer from pitting after alot meat prep despite cleaning without dismantling. D2 I find is a sod to get a surgical edge on despite having a large black Arkansas stone, a very hard steel. Think I may try a diamond system rather than my waterstones as I now have a few d2 blades to deal with.
Thanks for putting out this video. I have been looking at getting a Ontario RTAK II, but had never looked at their folding knives. I like their pricing, puts them in the same territory as a Kershaw, which is what I use now.
They are great knives, Thanks
Aus-8 has 13 - 14.5 % chromium, not 1.5% (6:40)
I do believe you are correct. My source was from BladeOps blog.bladeops.com/review-of-aus-8-stainless-steel.html which states the chromium is 1.5%. A second source www.crkt.com/steel-facts/ does state the chromium is 13 - 14.5%. My apologies and good catch, thanks.
Spyderco has a great resource for steel composition as well
Guess I love the rough part that you don't like. Gives a good grip. Definitely an area people could vary significantly opinion wise. I definitely love the rat though. Nice knife, opens easy, and good steel options. D2 is rust resistant and just barely under the stainless category which is why many don't complain about rust. I have an aus8 and it seems great and keep thinking to get a D2.
That snow looks so good right now. It's hot and humid here.
Would be nice a long term review and comparison of the two today!
Very nice review. Regarding "added ball bearing" (2nd click on opening), not sure that is correct, at least not on mine. 1st and 2nd click if pronounced
Mark Ashlock i think he means detent ball
Great review cheers!
yep, me too, got the old rats and the new d2
Video starts at 2:52
The Ontario RAT-1 is a superb knife!
i have 8 of them, several AUS-8 models both full sized and the compact RAT-2 and a full sized D2 blade model.
every one came perfectly assembled with excellent fit and finish, perfectly centered blades and razor sharp, with buttery smooth actions and rock solid lockup at 50% engagement depth.
They have superb ergonomics and are one of thr most capable and versatile knives ever made.
i love them all but im especially partial to my D2 bladed model.
its edge holding equals knives costing 4 to 6 times its cost.
you cant go wrong with a RAT!
I have both of these knives.... the D2 is FAR superior. This isn’t a matter of opinion, it’s a simple inarguable fact.
Tim Nichol: I think you are correct. Good catch. However, both my Aus8 and D2 have the 2nd "click". Also have a Rat 2 with the old Randal Triangle on the blade. It too has the 2nd click. No idea what's going on but certainly not a deal breaker! All is my Rats perform flawlessly.
I believe these Ontario knives are the best value for the price.
They all have a detent ball in them, otherwise they would fall open.....derp
I've cut myself two times with the Rat- I think the esee avispa is a way better knife
Thanks
great video, thanks!
9 minutes in and it's just starting the. Holden content... dude!
I'd be curious to see your thoughts on a slightly more modern folder compared to the Rat. Something akin to a spyderco Manix 2 or Paramilitary, or perhaps a benchmade bugout or griptillian.
put down salt for the ice.
Enjoy joy your snow, glad to see someone is enjoying it, up here in Canada we are sick of it and can't wait for it to be gone. where is the global warming? lol. The knives you have are NICE!!
Спасибо,отличное видео!!!
Flip knives are the worst possible choice for prepping, or almost anything else. They're nearly useless. As someone once said, "A flip knife is for the fool who wants cool instead of tool." There is nothing, not one thing, a flip knife can do that a twenty dollar Stockman can't do, but there are at least a dozen things the Stockman can do that no flip knife can even attempt.
D2 steel is very seldom hard. It often runs at 57 Rockwell. It holds an edge and is hard to sharpen because it has very high abrasion resistance, not because it's hard. Buck made the 110 from D2 for a time, but stopped when so many users sent the knives back because they couldn't sharpen them without a diamond stone.
Over the long term, a diamond stone takes years off the life of a knife because it sharpens by slicing metal away, rather than by simple abrasion.
A far better choice of steels is s30v. It's better than D2 in every category, and is getting much cheaper, but it's still more expensive than D2.
But flip knives are almost all silly in the best of times, and any tactical style knife is as silly as it gets. If you're going to use a pocketknife that has only one blade, then buy fixed blade knives instead. They do a far better job. The value of a pocketknife is to have more than one blade. Two is good, as on a Trapper. Three is even better, as on a Stockman.
You look old enough to know this. Even a fifteen dollar Stockman can do a dozen things a thousand dollar flip knife can't even attempt. One blade on a pocketknife is the same thing as having a horrible fixed blade knife. Just buy a really good fixed blade. But two. A smaller one for carving and routine tasks, and a big one for skinning game and the like.
Do not sharpen any of them at a ten or eleven degree angle. That's more TH-cam silliness. Such an angle is great for impressing friends by shaving hair off your forearm, but it's the worst angle possible for a working knife. You look old enough to know this, too. A pocketknife should be sharpened at fifteen degrees, a kitchen knife at seventeen, a general, all around use knife at twenty, and a big fixed blade at twenty-four or twenty-five.
These angles will allow you to cut anything you want to cut, and the edge will last from two to five times as long, depending on which angle it is.
If you aren't going to shave with your knife, aren't going to perform surgery with your knife, and don't plan on sitting around cutting paper all day, have a shaving bevel on your knife is not only silly, it's dangerous in a survival situation, or in a true SHTF situation.
Every task that requires a shaving angle has a specialized tool to do that job, be it a razor, a scalpel, a dedicated carving knife, or a common box cutter.
Sharpening your knife at an angle required for doing things your knife will never have to do is just not smart. Though this is another advantage of a real pocketknife. Woodsmen often keep one of the three blades on a stockman, always the smallest blade, razor sharp, just in case they do have to shave hair from around a wound, or even perform surgery to get something out of an injured person when medical help isn't available.
But putting a tenor eleven degree bevel on every knife, you are greatly limiting what that knife can do, you're making the edge wear down faster, and you're shortening the life of the blade. Al for nothing. knife with a twenty-four degree bevel is just as sharp as a knife with a ten degree bevel. The reason it won't shave hair ie because it has a lot more metal right behind the edge.
These are all things that can save your life in a survival situation, or in a SHTF situation. Only on TH-cam is everyone disappoint when a knife isn't razor "sharp" right out of the box. They don't even understand what sharp is. Sharp is the condition of the edge, not whether the knife will shave hair. Sharp is whether the good edge will cut the things that knife needs to cut. Period. It's as easy to skin a moose with a twenty-four degree bevel as with a ten degree bevel. Easier, really, because you won't have to stop and sharpen halfway through the job, or even on the next moose.
But get over TH-cam culture. Learn what real woodsmen do, not what TH-cam incest teaches. There are real woodsmen on TH-cam, but few pay attention to them because they haven't lived with Tv cameras around them, or haven't been in the military where people learn even sillier things about knives that they do on TH-cam.
Though at least most military knives are sharpened at somewhat more intelligent angles. The Ka-Bar, for example, has a bevel angle of twenty degrees per side, which is perfect for a large fixed blade that may be called on to do almost anything. Except shave hair. If you want to shave with a Ka-Bar, be my guest. I do not.
What's hilarious is that everyone I let test a Ka-Bar on normal tasks believes it is razor sharp because it cuts through wood and rope and hide and meat like soft clay. And it doesn't dull if it hits bone. It does these things because the edge on a twenty degree bevel is just as sharp as the edge on a ten degree bevel.
Once people learn this, many of them have a light come on. Others have blown bulbs, and keep ruining knives and putting their lives at risk, or, at best, creating a lot of extra work for themselves, and wear out a good knife far too soon.
You know what they say... Opinions are like assholes.... everyone has got one... You are a nobody so no one gives a fuck what you just said...
You obviously have too much time on your hands to write a bunch of garbage like you did. My brother is a green beret. Combat vet. He carried exactly what you went on a tear filled rant about. You're an idiot.
I've carried my rat 1 going on a year and a half now. And never once have I thought man I wish I had a stockman.
James Ritchie here’s a reason some people may prefer a pocket knife.. certain states such as North Carolina allow you to carry a pocket knife but can’t conceal carry a fixed blade of any type. A pocket knife is great for concealment and I don’t want to open carry a medium size fixed blade so everyone knows what I’ve got on me.
James Ritchie your assessment of optimal edge bevel is correct, the finer the edge gets, the easier it will fold over. What prevents it from folding over is the amount of "meat" (metal) behind it. The thinner it gets, the quicker the folds (or chips) will form. There is a sweet spot bevel angle for every application, no doubt. Grinding a utility knife down to the edge of a shaving razor is just bad karma, lol!
That being said, insulting the guy who made the video about the fact he should be "old enough" to know this or that is not the way to go about it. I for one appreciate the video he made, as I too was debating the Rat 1 in D2. As for folders being "completely useless", I've carried a folder for probably 20 years now and found it useful in COUNTLESS situations. Agreed, nothing beats a fixed blade for strength (provided it's not some Chinesium pot metal fixed blade though, because they can snap or chip on you before you can say "holy shit", even faster than a half decent folder).... but large folders with strong liners and good blades + decent locks can definitely get you out of a jam, plus they take half the space when carried. Carrying a fixed blade on you at all times can be... problematic (and in most jurisdictions illegal).
Q: What is the BEST survival knife or kit?
A: The one that's going to be with you at ALL TIMES! ;)