Much simpler solution for an ABBA switch with no soldering on the main pcb is to put a toggle switch on the gotek instead and put it across pins 11 and 12 so when those pins are shorted it turns the gotek to A drive 😃
I did try that approach first, but for some reason it didn't work for me... not quite sure why. I suspect that since there are quite a few slightly different Gotek models, some may not be compatible or maybe some of them may need some more tinkering. But I am really just guessing in the dark here, because it should have worked in my mind.
@MrTGuru As with everything in life, it is never that simple. First of all; clone or not, they are still classifiable as Goteks. If you take a deep dive into the FlashFloppy documentation, you will find a list of which PCB/micro-controller models work the best with the FlashFloppy firmware, which are to be avoided, and which are entirely incompatible. Disregarding all the compact non 3.5" form factor versions, functional variations are still clearly visible. Some have jumpers, some dip-switches, and some more or less of either, some have the pin-holes for the rotary-encoder in different locations, and some don't even have the rotary-encoder option at all. The micro-controllers also differ in size from model to model. What this all boils down to is that, as the older micro-controllers gradually become unobtainable, it has been necessary to adapt the design for newer and more available models, with more resources and potential functionalities. This phenomenon is obviously not confined to Goteks alone, but to all micro-controller, CLPD, FPGA (etc.) based electronics.
I traced the ABBA switch mod back to 2 pins on the 74LS38 in IC206 (right next to the floppy drive power leads on the motherboard). Then I de-soldered it, put in a socket and made a daughter-board for it out of a small piece of prototyping PCB. I put a 4-pin connector on the PCB for the switch and did a bit of quite simple rewiring. Flipping the switch now swaps pin 6 and pin 8 (the 2 drive-ID pins) around on the IC. That way I didn't have to cut any traces and if I should ever want to reverse it, it is just a matter of removing the daughter-board and putting the 74LS38 directly back into its socket.
I considered doing something similar. The only thing that tripped me up was the schematics show pin 8 connects back to pins 4 and 5 of the nand gate, which is then output on pin 6. And my brain couldn't figure out how to wire the switch without breaking functionality of one of the drives
@@TheRetroChannel Well, the explanation for that is actually rather simple. You can derive any of the other gates from NAND (NOT AND) gates, as long as you have enough of them. - In this case by connecting pin 8 to 4 and 5 will make that gate behave like an inverter (or a NOT gate). So when pin 8 is "low" then pin 6 will be "high" and when pin 8 is "high" then pin 6 will be "low"... Which when you think about it makes good sense, because you won't ever want the CPC6128 to select both drives or none of them. - If you'd like to brush up on all that gate stuff or logic ICs in general, you should check Ben Eater here on YT. He dives into all that (and much more) and he is really good at explaining even the more complex things.
Nice work on the upgrade. I'm still checking out the game catalog myself. When I get a 128 sometime this year I'll probably do this external method myself.
Nice. The ABBA switch may be unnecessary, so that means you would only need to run 5V to the gotek and put a switch on the gotek itself - see the pinned comment
Thanks a lot for the videos! I just got a CPC 6128 and I'm planning to do the internal 5V to 12V mod, and maybe the external Gotek + A/B switch as well. Please, what power supply did you get in the end to power all (not the bench power supply)? I suppose it needs to give more than 2 amps. Oh, about the CPC games to recommend, try Hostages, North & South, Light Corridor and The Sword of Ianna. I did graphics for the first 2, and the music for all of them ;-)
I ended up getting a 5amp power supply, I think it was just a cheap one off eBay. You could probably get away with a 3A one. Thanks for the game suggestions, I'll have to check them out sometime
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Much simpler solution for an ABBA switch with no soldering on the main pcb is to put a toggle switch on the gotek instead and put it across pins 11 and 12 so when those pins are shorted it turns the gotek to A drive 😃
Interesting, does that cause any conflicts with the internal drive? Does it work the same, so the internal can be accessed as the B drive?
@@TheRetroChannel yes the internal becomes the B drive
I did try that approach first, but for some reason it didn't work for me... not quite sure why. I suspect that since there are quite a few slightly different Gotek models, some may not be compatible or maybe some of them may need some more tinkering. But I am really just guessing in the dark here, because it should have worked in my mind.
@Mr Guru This is the best solution and I did the same! You can even order the cable with ABBA switch from ebay if you dont want to build your own.
@MrTGuru As with everything in life, it is never that simple. First of all; clone or not, they are still classifiable as Goteks.
If you take a deep dive into the FlashFloppy documentation, you will find a list of which PCB/micro-controller models work the best with the FlashFloppy firmware, which are to be avoided, and which are entirely incompatible.
Disregarding all the compact non 3.5" form factor versions, functional variations are still clearly visible. Some have jumpers, some dip-switches, and some more or less of either, some have the pin-holes for the rotary-encoder in different locations, and some don't even have the rotary-encoder option at all. The micro-controllers also differ in size from model to model.
What this all boils down to is that, as the older micro-controllers gradually become unobtainable, it has been necessary to adapt the design for newer and more available models, with more resources and potential functionalities. This phenomenon is obviously not confined to Goteks alone, but to all micro-controller, CLPD, FPGA (etc.) based electronics.
Good to see that the system can now do both Duran Duran and ABBA. :P
I traced the ABBA switch mod back to 2 pins on the 74LS38 in IC206 (right next to the floppy drive power leads on the motherboard). Then I de-soldered it, put in a socket and made a daughter-board for it out of a small piece of prototyping PCB. I put a 4-pin connector on the PCB for the switch and did a bit of quite simple rewiring. Flipping the switch now swaps pin 6 and pin 8 (the 2 drive-ID pins) around on the IC. That way I didn't have to cut any traces and if I should ever want to reverse it, it is just a matter of removing the daughter-board and putting the 74LS38 directly back into its socket.
I considered doing something similar. The only thing that tripped me up was the schematics show pin 8 connects back to pins 4 and 5 of the nand gate, which is then output on pin 6. And my brain couldn't figure out how to wire the switch without breaking functionality of one of the drives
@@TheRetroChannel Well, the explanation for that is actually rather simple. You can derive any of the other gates from NAND (NOT AND) gates, as long as you have enough of them.
- In this case by connecting pin 8 to 4 and 5 will make that gate behave like an inverter (or a NOT gate). So when pin 8 is "low" then pin 6 will be "high" and when pin 8 is "high" then pin 6 will be "low"... Which when you think about it makes good sense, because you won't ever want the CPC6128 to select both drives or none of them.
- If you'd like to brush up on all that gate stuff or logic ICs in general, you should check Ben Eater here on YT. He dives into all that (and much more) and he is really good at explaining even the more complex things.
I do like a no cut mod. Lovely job and a great video again.
Also, all the cool kids are releasing Amstrad videos today 😜
My mum says I'm cool
The very edge of this edge 👍
Nice work on the upgrade. I'm still checking out the game catalog myself. When I get a 128 sometime this year I'll probably do this external method myself.
Nice. The ABBA switch may be unnecessary, so that means you would only need to run 5V to the gotek and put a switch on the gotek itself - see the pinned comment
Thanks a lot for the videos! I just got a CPC 6128 and I'm planning to do the internal 5V to 12V mod, and maybe the external Gotek + A/B switch as well.
Please, what power supply did you get in the end to power all (not the bench power supply)? I suppose it needs to give more than 2 amps.
Oh, about the CPC games to recommend, try Hostages, North & South, Light Corridor and The Sword of Ianna. I did graphics for the first 2, and the music for all of them ;-)
I ended up getting a 5amp power supply, I think it was just a cheap one off eBay. You could probably get away with a 3A one. Thanks for the game suggestions, I'll have to check them out sometime
sorcery and Chuckie Egg lol
hidden gems? speak to Xyphoe!
Can you share where you bought those tweezers? I'm over crappy ones
www.aliexpress.com/item/32411079734.html
Anything with the word 'Amstrad' on it needs to be in a skip. Along with Alan Sugar.