Hey Rob, had an issue a few weeks ago, my ‘04, 50hp Honda overheated on its initial outing from its launch to our dock. Literally 10 minutes away. That morning I ran it up on my driveway with the muffs. Hadn’t notice her peeing as I thought the tstat was still closed. My bad!! Anyways, launched her and like I said wasn’t peeing and overheated. So pulled her outa the water. Bought a new impeller, ran her up with the muffs, hardly any noticeable peeing. Figured it would get better in the lake. Keep in mind this is a 24’ pontoon. In the lake and a till nothing and the temp buzzer starts up. Shut her off and park her. Spoke to our Honda dealership. Apparently there is a third pu for water!! The two in front of the prop, either side of the bottom end. AND one above the prop. If this “third” one is, at the very least, NOT taped over, which they don’t recommend doing btw, the water pump WILL NOT pump AND will fry itself!! They suggest NOT to tape it but instead to submerge it in a Rubbermaid bin or large bucket. One that will cover the whole bottom end. That tube that you see at the end of your video is the “third” inlet tube that supplies water to the pump. That’s the one I didn’t know about that has cause me a shit load of grief!! Anyways, for all out there that are having the same issue I’ve had…hope this helps.
Thank you for your video I just got my boat today put the ears on it some water came through but not enough so filled a barrel with water and none came through .so it was a trip to the Honda 65 miles away and got a new one .your video is very well done. Thank you again. I will subscribe
Rob, thanks for your video. I've used several of yours and they are great. I just changed the impeller in my 2003 50hp and a part came off when I removed the lower unit and I don't know what it is or where it came from. I can't find it in any diagram for my motor. It looks like a metal gasket - round with about a two inch diameter , open on one end and has two small holes. I can't figure out how to attach a picture here. Any idea?
What about how to do if all qings are missing? Pretty sure they disapeared when starting up after 2 years. Qhat to take apart to ensure all bits are gone?
Capt Rob - i just read through this entire thread. Thanks for all the helpful advice. I did read somewhere that the linkage nut is much easier to get to if one shifts into reverse, but one must also shift the lower unit as well if seperated prior to shifting. I replaced my impeller and i still have barely a dribble of water coming out at low RPM. Is that normal?
Yes it is easier to access the linkage nut when in gear. It throws some people off so I didn't mention it. You may have a blockage somewhere else. Check your thermostat and blow air back through the system hopefully that will be it. Keep me posted.
Hey captain rob, I have the 01 50hp model I put everything back together correctly and had good water flow and all from the tell-tale, but it stopped after a while I pulled lower unit and the impeller was melted. Would me using Mickey ears starve it and cause it’s to do that? Impeller was installed correctly keyway was still in place. Thanks for any tips.
Yes unfortunately running for to long on muffs can do that. Just short periods of time and if you look under the cavitation plate you may see a grey screen up there that is also an intake. Go watch the how to start a 40 Honda with electric choke video you will see it. I tape them so the ears will work better. A bucket is always best. Sorry your pump melted...
Hi, just wanted to ask you. I did mine on a 20 hp the other day and when I put it all back together, I noticed in order to put it in reverse. I gotta wiggle the propeller a little bit and it didn’t do that before. Is it possible I have that nut out of adjustment?
@smeg8557 you should always shift it while it's running. The teeth on the clutch dog don't engage unless they line up so you have to turn the prop. Thats dry shifting and bad. This doesn't always happen. Just make sure while running it shifts to forward and reverse fine and stays in gear. Make sure you can always fine your way back to neutral as well.
I do not have a video of that but I can tell you. The small screw is just the locking one. Just Crack it loose and leave it there. Unwind the long screw up and away from the small nut. This way the shift will go back to the same spot when you put it back together. If it's frozen heat it and then spray it with pb blaster or something to free it up. Let me know if that helps.
Re Honda 40 - impeller blades were gone, I removed bits and pieces with needle nose plyers. Before putting it back together should I do an engine flush to force out any remaining pieces? Would removing the thermostat help? I emailed a couple of pictures.
You got it!!! Pull therm and let it flow out the top. Let it idle on the flush for a few minutes. Then replace therm and button up. Spray down motor with crc656 or yamashield. See how it does? You may have to check it again after a good run.
I am changing a BF40 impeller after watching the 75/90 impeller change you used a vice grip to hold the shifter in position. Do you use a vice grip on the 40 also?
You know I don't remember. Usually a little gease on the end of the shifter keeps it on there. I think the 90 had a tube. It's been so long. You don't have to but if it falls out it helps. We looked at 115 Suzuki today and a needle nose vice grip worked at keeping that one on. It's preference that's all.
Absolutely! What your doing is displacing the void. Instead of mud and debris that can sit in the threads you have grease instead. It will be easy the next time to remove as well. I always grease the oring and impeller too before putting the housing back on. Any multi purpose grease is fine marine or wheel bearing will be fine in fresh water. Good luck!!!
Ok ordered the new lower housing put everything back together but now I have water that is bubbling up through where the shift linkage and rubber hose is any ideas? Can the impeller liner only go in one spot? Seems like that opening will let water through ?
I have a bf50a honda that im changing impeller on. I dropped outdrive and cannot find any info on what black rubber hose with barbed fitting is for right in front of the shift shaft thats zip tied to a nipple on top of outdrive? can u explain whats its for?
Yeah that's the speedo pickup tube. You don't have to have it unless you have a speedo gauge. The hole on the leading edge of the gearcase has water pressing against the air in the tube. The reading is the speed on the gauge. It's a crappy way to tell speed because it's never true speed. Hope that helps!
Can you advise more on the coupler nut? I’m taking mine apart right now and the shifter is connected but I got all 5 bolts out. Do you loosen the locking but or the part above it?
You just back off an 1/8 of a turn the little lock nut. You keep turning the long nut til it comes off. The motor can be in gear to help aid you getting a wrench on the nuts. Just remember the motor and gear case both have to be in gear the same direction when it goes back on. Forward and forward or neutral and neutral. They will match back up then. Does that help?
I've recently acquired a small boat including Honda BF45 and have slowly been getting it up and running. Now that the carbs are cleaned and reinstalled and there's no more fuel overflowing, I notice the engine isn't pushing a lot of water out of the indicator hole, almost none. I pulled the hose of the brass fitting, which I then unthreaded from the engine. Inside there are some chunks of rubber, which I can only assume are chunks of impeller? While I still plan on checking the impeller, I want to know about flushing this tube. Should I just apply compressed air, hoping the chunks come out the bottom? Is it safe to snake some sort of wire into this hole to try and push it through? Thanks in advance.
Hi Chris! Yes once you change the impeller and put the gear case back on run the engine in a bucket. You can run it with out that brass nipple there. But I like to remove the thermostat and let the chunks come out there. Water will flow out and all over the motor. It's ok just don't run it for more than 5 minutes. Also keep a paper clip on board to clean out the brass hole if salt clogs it which is common. I hope that helps
@@natekons the flush with the thermostat out will get rid of chunks that float around it does work if the broken find of the impeller made it through. Sometimes if it's a bad melt down I've seen twice the rubber is melted in the pick up tube which brings water up to the block. Is your water pump housing in good shape or does it look like it's had some melting too. All the little imperfections add up. Make sure your telltail from the block is good to your overboard hose. Let me know what you find!
@@captainrobthompson8728 It had some melting so I replaced the housing,bolts, impeller. I bought a 52C thermostat and will attempt flush without thermostat before installation. The 72c was way too hot. Thanks guys
Do these motors spin clockwise or counterclockwise ? I took mine apart and wanted to see how the original impelar was installed but there was almost nothing left of it. I have a BF25a but I'm sure the 40hp spins the same rotation
Cap Rob....I'm doing a 2015 honda 8hp. I have already done an impeller, now I have found water in the lower unit with milky oil. Is there a way it could be related to my impeller change or just by chance and on of the other seals have gone bad? No fishing line behind prop and little salt use. Any help would be appreciated
Ok let's take a fresh start with this. Seals going bad on a 2015. It's possible but not likely. Change your gear oil and use new washers or orings. It's important to not over tighten just snug. Try that and see. Give it a normal run. If you see water again. Try to get a pressure tester. It's not to bad of a job on an 8. I have see the plastic gear oil washers over tighten and leak. Hopefully that is all it is. Get back to me if water comes back. Good luck!
Ok the easiest way is to shift the drive so you can access the nuts easily. Leave it in gear so when you put it back together it meets up correctly. You will just separate the little nut from the large nut. Leave the little bit there so you know where the location is that they should also meet back up. You will spin the large nut until it moves away and separates the two units. Do not go farther. If it is frozen up have a tech work on it because it will strip out out if forced and a new one will have to be used. Once you have done it a few times you will be a pro. Let me know if you run into any hurdles.
Thank you for your help ... one more question. That plastic tube near the shift stick . Do u know what’s it’s function? Because when I removed the lower unit it doesn’t seem to be connected to anything
Thanks for the reply on turning the shaft to seat the impeller. That was my issue. You know what you are doing but my ignorance needs a really detailed explanation.
I have a BF50 that heats up at full throttle and goes into limp mode, we changed thermostat and still the same, water comes out of pee hole and idles and water is hot (not warm) and at full speed almost nothing comes out and the Over heating lights come on and limp mode. Any idea what could be wrong ? thank you
Sounds like there is a restriction somewhere? Ok a few questions. 1. Is the impeller housing in good shape? The cup has not melted in at all or and debris in it? 2. Check the Pick up tube and see if any impeller pieces are logged up in there? 3. Pull thermostat and run motor for a minute and see if chunks come out. 4.Have you ever gotten stuck hard in mud or sand? Make sure you keep trying to clear per tube with a paper clip. 5. Lastly the water pump you put in? Is it aftermarket of oem? Let me know when you can.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thank you for your reply and sorry it took so long to reply, I wanted to let you know that the Impeller housing got so hot that is melted That was the problem so we got the big water pump kit with all the goodies. and good to go..thank you.
lefty k I have a 90 as well. The shift is actually easier. You just have to line it up when you put it back on. It will look like a torx bit male end on the gear case. Don't turn it and done shift the Boat. It should match right up when you put back together. The water pump part should be about the same. Good luck
a vice will work on a small motor. Or if you can get them 2 6"by 6" blocks. spread them paralle by about a foot. Across the top use 2 2" by 4" to connect them screw these in with about a 3/4" gap so skeg of lower unit will fit in there. You can use this for large gear cases. I hope that helps
I have a bf225, I started the engine on the garden hose after sitting for the winter and tell tale stream was fine but then suddenly dropped to nothing? Tried forcing the water through the pickup but still nothing. Any ideas?
landondc4739 sorry I just say this now. If you can run it in a bucket or in the water on trailer. Sometimes on the larger motors there just isn't enough volume that way. It may be nothing other than low pressure. Try a garbage can.
Slowly find all the bolts holding it on and disconnect to shift. Watch the video a few times. Unscrew the big nut on the shift from the small nut. Never move the small nut. Watch and let me know.
sorry Chris I don't get updates on comments. The slot is in the driveshaft. They usually are corroded in and need a cold chisel and hammer to bang out. On the impeller there is a groove as well so when the shaft is turning which is the entire time the engine is running the water is pumping. I hope that helps you will see on the inside of the impeller if you buy a waterpump kit. It will come with a new keyway as well.
Get your serial number and go on Honda marine site and do parts search for it. I come across a lot of European models lately. The 2004 40 and 50 are the same which mine is and yours probably is. But to be on the safe side. I would check that or boats.net out for the exact part number.
This was the first video I did. Go check out the 75/90 water pump gear case removal. I wish I could film these better so you can see what I see without the bouncing around
@@Z-Bart yeah it maybe a crazy project. In salt we say every 3 years maybe 4, 5 you have problems coming. The factory never greases the bolts that's why the first w/p change is critical. It all gets greased. Let us know how you make out. I am very curious 20 years in fresh water with no grease. Keep me posted.
Hey Rob, had an issue a few weeks ago, my ‘04, 50hp Honda overheated on its initial outing from its launch to our dock. Literally 10 minutes away.
That morning I ran it up on my driveway with the muffs. Hadn’t notice her peeing as I thought the tstat was still closed. My bad!!
Anyways, launched her and like I said wasn’t peeing and overheated. So pulled her outa the water. Bought a new impeller, ran her up with the muffs, hardly any noticeable peeing. Figured it would get better in the lake. Keep in mind this is a 24’ pontoon. In the lake and a till nothing and the temp buzzer starts up. Shut her off and park her. Spoke to our Honda dealership. Apparently there is a third pu for water!! The two in front of the prop, either side of the bottom end. AND one above the prop. If this “third” one is, at the very least, NOT taped over, which they don’t recommend doing btw, the water pump WILL NOT pump AND will fry itself!! They suggest NOT to tape it but instead to submerge it in a Rubbermaid bin or large bucket. One that will cover the whole bottom end.
That tube that you see at the end of your video is the “third” inlet tube that supplies water to the pump. That’s the one I didn’t know about that has cause me a shit load of grief!! Anyways, for all out there that are having the same issue I’ve had…hope this helps.
Thank you for your video I just got my boat today put the ears on it some water came through but not enough so filled a barrel with water and none came through .so it was a trip to the Honda 65 miles away and got a new one .your video is very well done. Thank you again. I will subscribe
Thank you so much! If you come across anything you want me to go over let me know. I'm always up for ideas for new videos.
How about doing complete vid from pulling off gear case to putting back on
Rob, thanks for your video. I've used several of yours and they are great. I just changed the impeller in my 2003 50hp and a part came off when I removed the lower unit and I don't know what it is or where it came from. I can't find it in any diagram for my motor. It looks like a metal gasket - round with about a two inch diameter , open on one end and has two small holes. I can't figure out how to attach a picture here. Any idea?
Send pic to captainrobthompson@gmail.com
What about how to do if all qings are missing? Pretty sure they disapeared when starting up after 2 years. Qhat to take apart to ensure all bits are gone?
Capt Rob - i just read through this entire thread. Thanks for all the helpful advice. I did read somewhere that the linkage nut is much easier to get to if one shifts into reverse, but one must also shift the lower unit as well if seperated prior to shifting. I replaced my impeller and i still have barely a dribble of water coming out at low RPM. Is that normal?
Yes it is easier to access the linkage nut when in gear. It throws some people off so I didn't mention it. You may have a blockage somewhere else. Check your thermostat and blow air back through the system hopefully that will be it. Keep me posted.
Hey captain rob, I have the 01 50hp model I put everything back together correctly and had good water flow and all from the tell-tale, but it stopped after a while I pulled lower unit and the impeller was melted. Would me using Mickey ears starve it and cause it’s to do that? Impeller was installed correctly keyway was still in place. Thanks for any tips.
Yes unfortunately running for to long on muffs can do that. Just short periods of time and if you look under the cavitation plate you may see a grey screen up there that is also an intake. Go watch the how to start a 40 Honda with electric choke video you will see it. I tape them so the ears will work better. A bucket is always best. Sorry your pump melted...
Hi, just wanted to ask you. I did mine on a 20 hp the other day and when I put it all back together, I noticed in order to put it in reverse. I gotta wiggle the propeller a little bit and it didn’t do that before. Is it possible I have that nut out of adjustment?
@smeg8557 you should always shift it while it's running. The teeth on the clutch dog don't engage unless they line up so you have to turn the prop. Thats dry shifting and bad. This doesn't always happen. Just make sure while running it shifts to forward and reverse fine and stays in gear. Make sure you can always fine your way back to neutral as well.
@@captainrobthompson8728 thank you so much 😊
@@smeg8557 your welcome!!!
Do you have a video of you pulling the bottom off, I'm looking for the process of removing the gear selector rode mainly. Thanks
Rod with the bolt and longer bolt on the rod if that makes sense. Thanks
I do not have a video of that but I can tell you. The small screw is just the locking one. Just Crack it loose and leave it there. Unwind the long screw up and away from the small nut. This way the shift will go back to the same spot when you put it back together. If it's frozen heat it and then spray it with pb blaster or something to free it up. Let me know if that helps.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Perfect thank you after looking into it more, that's what I figured would be the process. Thanks
Re Honda 40 - impeller blades were gone, I removed bits and pieces with needle nose plyers. Before putting it back together should I do an engine flush to force out any remaining pieces? Would removing the thermostat help? I emailed a couple of pictures.
You got it!!! Pull therm and let it flow out the top. Let it idle on the flush for a few minutes. Then replace therm and button up. Spray down motor with crc656 or yamashield. See how it does? You may have to check it again after a good run.
I am changing a BF40 impeller after watching the 75/90 impeller change you used a vice grip to hold the shifter in position. Do you use a vice grip on the 40 also?
You know I don't remember. Usually a little gease on the end of the shifter keeps it on there. I think the 90 had a tube. It's been so long. You don't have to but if it falls out it helps. We looked at 115 Suzuki today and a needle nose vice grip worked at keeping that one on. It's preference that's all.
Do you recommend grease on the bolt threads if I only use it in fresh water?
Absolutely! What your doing is displacing the void. Instead of mud and debris that can sit in the threads you have grease instead. It will be easy the next time to remove as well. I always grease the oring and impeller too before putting the housing back on. Any multi purpose grease is fine marine or wheel bearing will be fine in fresh water. Good luck!!!
@@captainrobthompson8728 great, thanks for you opinion
What if you lower housing looks slightly melted around driveshaft @ the 2:20 mark ??
Ok ordered the new lower housing put everything back together but now I have water that is bubbling up through where the shift linkage and rubber hose is any ideas?
Can the impeller liner only go in one spot? Seems like that opening will let water through ?
I wish you had a video of you pulling the lower end
on a 1999 40AX Honda were does that black vacuum line go to by the water pump. does just stick up in side the open area next to shifter?
It is your Speedo tube. If you do not have a Speedo it would just lay there. If you do it would plug onto a similar hose.
I have a bf50a honda that im changing impeller on. I dropped outdrive and cannot find any info on what black rubber hose with barbed fitting is for right in front of the shift shaft thats zip tied to a nipple on top of outdrive? can u explain whats its for?
Yeah that's the speedo pickup tube. You don't have to have it unless you have a speedo gauge. The hole on the leading edge of the gearcase has water pressing against the air in the tube. The reading is the speed on the gauge. It's a crappy way to tell speed because it's never true speed. Hope that helps!
I was wondering how to remove the four bolts on the pump said no one ever.
Replacing gear case on my Honda 2008 50hp. Same process taking off and just switching out ? Any tips? Should it be in forward or reverse ?
Same as taking off. Leave in the same gear as you took it off with.
Thank you
Can you advise more on the coupler nut? I’m taking mine apart right now and the shifter is connected but I got all 5 bolts out. Do you loosen the locking but or the part above it?
You just back off an 1/8 of a turn the little lock nut. You keep turning the long nut til it comes off. The motor can be in gear to help aid you getting a wrench on the nuts. Just remember the motor and gear case both have to be in gear the same direction when it goes back on. Forward and forward or neutral and neutral. They will match back up then. Does that help?
Captain Rob Thompson thanks for the reply! I’m in MN and it’s dark already but i will try tomorrow!
Would a worn impeller cause a loss of RPMs with WOT ? Thx
@@djneville2000 only if it overheats and it goes into limp mode.
Can you tell me if the procedure is the same for a 20 hp?
@smeg8557 it's pretty similar. Just different size impeller really.
@@captainrobthompson8728 thank you I just saw the message for some reason reason
I have a 1997 50/35 Honda jet motor is this the way to change the water pump on it also?
To tell you the truth I don't remember having one apart. Can you find the schematic break down for it? It's the 35/45 hp correct?
@@captainrobthompson8728 it's a 50/35 jet motor
Ok 50 hp motor with jet drive putting out 35hp. Let me try to look up
I can't find it. Go to Honda Marine and put in your serial number. It will bring up the motor and hopefully the jet drive
@@captainrobthompson8728 ok thanks
I've recently acquired a small boat including Honda BF45 and have slowly been getting it up and running. Now that the carbs are cleaned and reinstalled and there's no more fuel overflowing, I notice the engine isn't pushing a lot of water out of the indicator hole, almost none. I pulled the hose of the brass fitting, which I then unthreaded from the engine. Inside there are some chunks of rubber, which I can only assume are chunks of impeller? While I still plan on checking the impeller, I want to know about flushing this tube. Should I just apply compressed air, hoping the chunks come out the bottom? Is it safe to snake some sort of wire into this hole to try and push it through? Thanks in advance.
Hi Chris! Yes once you change the impeller and put the gear case back on run the engine in a bucket. You can run it with out that brass nipple there. But I like to remove the thermostat and let the chunks come out there. Water will flow out and all over the motor. It's ok just don't run it for more than 5 minutes. Also keep a paper clip on board to clean out the brass hole if salt clogs it which is common. I hope that helps
I have same issue causing motor to overheat.Did the flush method solve your problem?
@@natekons the flush with the thermostat out will get rid of chunks that float around it does work if the broken find of the impeller made it through. Sometimes if it's a bad melt down I've seen twice the rubber is melted in the pick up tube which brings water up to the block. Is your water pump housing in good shape or does it look like it's had some melting too. All the little imperfections add up. Make sure your telltail from the block is good to your overboard hose. Let me know what you find!
Fishing with Captain Rob Thompson Can you show me where the thermostat is? This is what is like to do.
@@captainrobthompson8728 It had some melting so I replaced the housing,bolts, impeller. I bought a 52C thermostat and will attempt flush without thermostat before installation. The 72c was way too hot. Thanks guys
Do these motors spin clockwise or counterclockwise ? I took mine apart and wanted to see how the original impelar was installed but there was almost nothing left of it. I have a BF25a but I'm sure the 40hp spins the same rotation
When putting the water pump housing cover on rotate the drive shaft clockwise.
Cap Rob....I'm doing a 2015 honda 8hp. I have already done an impeller, now I have found water in the lower unit with milky oil. Is there a way it could be related to my impeller change or just by chance and on of the other seals have gone bad? No fishing line behind prop and little salt use. Any help would be appreciated
Ok let's take a fresh start with this. Seals going bad on a 2015. It's possible but not likely. Change your gear oil and use new washers or orings. It's important to not over tighten just snug. Try that and see. Give it a normal run. If you see water again. Try to get a pressure tester. It's not to bad of a job on an 8. I have see the plastic gear oil washers over tighten and leak. Hopefully that is all it is. Get back to me if water comes back. Good luck!
Does the impeller go clockwise or counter clockwise.
Yes clockwise for all in the 2000+. There are a few models from the 90s that were counter. 35 & 45 had some backwards kits. Not all though.
Could u explain how to remove or install the shift linkage nut when u remove the lower unit? And or reinstall it back
Ok the easiest way is to shift the drive so you can access the nuts easily. Leave it in gear so when you put it back together it meets up correctly. You will just separate the little nut from the large nut. Leave the little bit there so you know where the location is that they should also meet back up. You will spin the large nut until it moves away and separates the two units. Do not go farther. If it is frozen up have a tech work on it because it will strip out out if forced and a new one will have to be used. Once you have done it a few times you will be a pro. Let me know if you run into any hurdles.
Thank you for your help ... one more question. That plastic tube near the shift stick . Do u know what’s it’s function? Because when I removed the lower unit it doesn’t seem to be connected to anything
Thank you again in advance
No problem Howard. Good luck!
The plastic tube is the water Speedo pickup. If there was a black hose that goes to your speedometer. If you don't have a Speedo it's useless.
Thanks for the reply on turning the shaft to seat the impeller. That was my issue. You know what you are doing but my ignorance needs a really detailed explanation.
It's all good that's what I'm here for!!!
I have a BF50 that heats up at full throttle and goes into limp mode, we changed thermostat and still the same, water comes out of pee hole and idles and water is hot (not warm) and at full speed almost nothing comes out and the Over heating lights come on and limp mode. Any idea what could be wrong ? thank you
Sounds like there is a restriction somewhere? Ok a few questions. 1. Is the impeller housing in good shape? The cup has not melted in at all or and debris in it? 2. Check the Pick up tube and see if any impeller pieces are logged up in there? 3. Pull thermostat and run motor for a minute and see if chunks come out. 4.Have you ever gotten stuck hard in mud or sand? Make sure you keep trying to clear per tube with a paper clip. 5. Lastly the water pump you put in? Is it aftermarket of oem? Let me know when you can.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thank you for your reply and sorry it took so long to reply, I wanted to let you know that the Impeller housing got so hot that is melted That was the problem so we got the big water pump kit with all the goodies. and good to go..thank you.
I have a 2006 bf90a6 will it be the same as this video? and how did you keep it up right?
lefty k I have a 90 as well. The shift is actually easier. You just have to line it up when you put it back on. It will look like a torx bit male end on the gear case. Don't turn it and done shift the Boat. It should match right up when you put back together. The water pump part should be about the same. Good luck
thanks capt . how or what did you use to maintain the lower unit upright?
a vice will work on a small motor. Or if you can get them 2 6"by 6" blocks. spread them paralle by about a foot. Across the top use 2 2" by 4" to connect them screw these in with about a 3/4" gap so skeg of lower unit will fit in there. You can use this for large gear cases. I hope that helps
Same for the Honda 50?
Yes. Gear case is the same. Only difference is carburetor jetting or computer for efi
Thanks, great vid!
Thanks 😊
Great vid. What kind of grease do you use?
Any type of marine even wheel bearing will work. Love the Max Headroom!!!
I have a BF20D 20hp honda motor. Is the procedure the same? Thanks
it should be very similar. one plus is its lighter.
OK. Thanks a lot.
I have a bf225, I started the engine on the garden hose after sitting for the winter and tell tale stream was fine but then suddenly dropped to nothing? Tried forcing the water through the pickup but still nothing. Any ideas?
landondc4739 sorry I just say this now. If you can run it in a bucket or in the water on trailer. Sometimes on the larger motors there just isn't enough volume that way. It may be nothing other than low pressure. Try a garbage can.
How do you separate lower unit?
Slowly find all the bolts holding it on and disconnect to shift. Watch the video a few times. Unscrew the big nut on the shift from the small nut. Never move the small nut. Watch and let me know.
I was hoping you were going to demonstrate the proper way in which to place in the impeller as I believe there is a wrong way to install. Thanks.
Ok so when you lower the housing onto the impeller turn the shaft clockwise. That will line your fins the correct way. That's all.
hELLO, IS 60HP MODEL BF60A THE SAME?
Could be? There are 4 models BF60A, BF60AK1, BFP60A and BFP60AK1 Check the model or serial numbers on the motor.
Thanks on the video and information bf 50
Thank you!!!
I don't get the assembly of that woodruff key. doesn't seem like it has any slot.
sorry Chris I don't get updates on comments. The slot is in the driveshaft. They usually are corroded in and need a cold chisel and hammer to bang out. On the impeller there is a groove as well so when the shaft is turning which is the entire time the engine is running the water is pumping. I hope that helps you will see on the inside of the impeller if you buy a waterpump kit. It will come with a new keyway as well.
is it the same on a 50 ?? thank you
Yes
Yes
@@captainrobthompson8728 I have a 2002 handa 50
Get your serial number and go on Honda marine site and do parts search for it. I come across a lot of European models lately. The 2004 40 and 50 are the same which mine is and yours probably is. But to be on the safe side. I would check that or boats.net out for the exact part number.
Explain the foot/ lower end removal nxt time
This was the first video I did. Go check out the 75/90 water pump gear case removal. I wish I could film these better so you can see what I see without the bouncing around
Thanks, I have the same engine.
great thanks
I'm assuming my 40hp 4 stroke is the same. Mines a 2006.
Yeah I think your in the same ballpark
Similar BF45 motor stored for 15 years. Thanks.
Andre Laviolette yeah the 35, 45 is very close. About ten years older but close enough. I'm glad it helped
Mine's a 2000 40. Original impeller. I should probably change that.
You may have trouble getting the gearcase off. If it's in fresh you should be able to. In salt might be impossible. Good luck. Use heat!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Fresh water. Think I'll use my mechanic's services. He owes me. 👍
@@Z-Bart yeah it maybe a crazy project. In salt we say every 3 years maybe 4, 5 you have problems coming. The factory never greases the bolts that's why the first w/p change is critical. It all gets greased. Let us know how you make out. I am very curious 20 years in fresh water with no grease. Keep me posted.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Ordered the kit tonight. I'll let you know. 👍
Ok cool. If the first bolt is frozen email me captainrobthompson@gmail.com I will see it better. And respond quicker.
What does the rubber hose go to
JRtippens32 that's a Speedo pickup if you have it hooked up