Ultrasonic refrigerant leak detector how sensitive is it ? It’s insanely super sensitive.!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
- Ultrasonic refrigerant leak detector how sensitive is it.
You’d be surprise this thing is ridiculously scary sensitive.
And this is exactly why some technicians don’t like ultrasonic leak detectors because they just cannot wrap their mind around the comprehension of how to use it because it’s so sensitive.
Takes a learning curve and knowing the limitations of the tool and knowing what kind of surrounding interferences can lead you astray and give you false positives or triggering when it should not because of things like fluorescent lights because of the switch mode power supplies in the LED lights because of possible pressure or vacuum lines in the building for some other reason that are far away but have micro small leaks that are being picked up from 30, 40 or 50 feet away
If you don’t understand your tool then you can never be a good technician with it.
Just like the H 10 understanding and compensating for its drift
There’s those people who learn how to use the H 10 and those who do not
And that would make the difference between the technician I would want working on my system looking for a leak and a technician I would not even allow in my front door to look for a leak
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There are all kinds of of leak classifications. One happens only when the unit operates and creates vibrations and then they leak, some leak when they kit a high temperature. Wetting the coil helps make noise too. When this method is used it’s not a static or hissing sound put rather a small popping or spitting type sound. I have found them on a 3 month old Bryant unit in a paper mill and had about 20-30 leaks that were coming through the solder. Recover the gas and put a small shot of 22 in there and crank the pressure as high as the OEM test pressure will allow and if the ultrasonic doesn’t find it, the the Stratus will because of the 22. Make sure you put the 22 in first.😅 get a bucket and sit down, and bubbles to confirm and mark it with a paint marker .
Yes, I have done videos on all the different types of links that are only sensitive the temperature when the temperature goes cold or the temperature goes hot and stop leaking. when the units shuts off
Certain leaks only happen under low pressure and not high pressure. They literally stop leaking. I’ve made videos on this captured it on video. .
Some leaks might only happen after 425 psi, but I’m talking about a system that’s rated for 600 psi . When it gets below 425 psi, the leak stops.
I’ve made videos where only UV dye would find a leak . And even after you knew where the leak was, if you put bubbles on it and cranked up the pressure, it would show nothing at that moment..
If you ran the system, no bubbles electronic leak detector would pick up nothing.
I was fortunate all these different types of methods and leaks. My father showed me when I was a child working with him so I did not have to learn all the different methods. .
And my father had a ultrasonic leak detector in the late 60s it was a huge thing with the big power brick. I remember it because I grew up using it. . And for that time it was ungodly incredibly expensive..
All right are you listening? Are you ready? GOOD! 😊 I'm going to steal a line from a movie let's see if you know what it is. "If only we had a hot tub"
::blank stares:: LOL
SO HERE'S WHAT YOU DO!
I want you to go buy a used hot tub, break it down, move it to the job site, set it back up, separate the coil, pressurize the coil, and then dunk it. You'll have bubbles galore wherever the leak is.
I know, I know. I'm freaking genius. 😂
Don't forget to charge them for the hot tub.😮
I love mine. I bought mine in 1994 and its still going strong. Different detectors for different reasons
I had my dads that my father tough me to look for leaks back in the 80s .
It had huge heavy headsets like a Hellacoptor pilot. Had a big brick to hold a wand for a sensor.
Had it for all most 3 decades before it got stolen and I replaced it with this new one.
Loving this new ultrasonic leak detector
dump 475psi of nitro and you'll pinpoint it with the ultrasonic.
From inficon?
@Mudo94 yes I have the Intercon too. I did a video or two on it.. I may not have released it on my TH-cam channel yet
It’s definitely on the Facebook group called
( Automotive HVAC technicians )
You can go over there and ask to join . And you can see some information I have not released on TH-cam
Maybe temperature change opens and closes hole.
Or contaminant has blocked hole from inside.
Yes that happens
You have nice toys
I like toys
Hey Tom, do you have an opinion on the Whisper Ultrasonic Leak Detector? I have been considering getting an Ultrasonic leak detector and have considered both the Whisper and the Superior AccuTrak VPE BASIC.
@@danleitner1635 have no opinion on both of them. I use both of them. I like both of them.
@@coldfinger459sub0 🙂
Ultrasonic detectors work best when you wet the coil with water first. Though small leaks at the bottom of coils where oil sits can be very hard to locate. Instead of refrigerant leaking out it just very slowly seeps oil that you cant hear with ultrasonic and cant sense with standard leak detectors. I hate micro leaks with a passion so frustrating when you can't find them. Sometimes you just have to weigh in the charge and call it day and see how long if ever for the call back. O and I hate those epoxy joints where the copper meets the aluminum coil they will leak if the system discharge pressures are high do to dirty cu coil on a hot day and will not leak in lower outdoor temps or after the coil is washed. Repaired many on Carrier rtus.
Would cleaning the coil & rewetting it make enough difference?
I still have not had luck with wetting the area with water to try to make a difference. After finding leaks and then sprain him to see bubbles.. and listening for a difference I have not found a improvement yet.
But I’m sure there is a leak I have not found yet that adding water might make a difference . I just have to keep wetting them with water to come across that one that I find that water actually makes a difference..
When I find one, I will make a video of a before, when it is a dry with a sound, and then after it has got wet and makes a difference . That video will come when I find one..
@@luisalvarez8266 the reason you wet the coil with ultra sonic is it will make a gurgling sound at the leak point that can be picked up by the detector. Good luck. No one detector is the solution try them all. 😂
You could also use a heat gun to warm up the area. Or else, use the dye and run it
Heat sometimes but first you have to know where the area is on the large system you’ll spend the next hour heating an entire system from the ground floor up to the piping to the outdoor condenser and sometimes interior access in panels does not allow you to get full access with a heat gun?
Sometimes it needs the hot liquid refrigerant in combination with the pressure .
But sometimes it’s only at a certain particular pressure that it will leak anything under that pressure that it needs. It will not leak. .
It all depends on the combination type of leak .
@@coldfinger459sub0 agreed
I originally got an Accutrak when the new refrigerants came out and the new electronic detectors just weren't making the grade. It was a game changer. I find myself using it after new installs, compressor replacements and so forth, just to confirm no leaks. Not saying I never use Ultraviolet or Heated Diode. Just did an ice machine leak recently and YJ 69365 heated diode found that one. But, I'd say 75 percent of the time I use the Accutrak. And I have had leaks show up with higher pressure - I just pressurize to about 350-400 pounds with nitrogen. You'll find it then!
My father introduced me to ultrasonic why’ve first started taking my out to his work to teach me at 12. Back then it was a big black metal handheld metal box , separate power supply plugged into the wall. Cost well over $1000 back in the 1970’s . Remember you could buy a new cheap car for under $4000. I also learned on the H-10 heated diode $1500 at that time I was s lucky kid at the time and did not know it. The borescope was $3800, metal heavy vary large separate plug in power supply.
Having the best tools and being taught how do use them correctly makes all the difference in the world.
3:16 sorry what was that? Alunimun? Lol jk great video!
🤣 ever since I was a child, I can never say that word, right.
But I can’t say it like the British over in England. I have no problem with that. .
What about filling with nitrogen and spraying the big blu and listening for the nitrogen blowing out of the big blu?
That’s why in the videos you probably see the bottle of big blue hanging there in the nitrogen tank off to the side.
That’s coming but I have other big fish to fry I had to get off this job back to the office on the computer for three upcoming estimates for jobs that I will be doing Time for me to get my butt out of this place. The real world calls
But I will only use the nitrogen if after I perform a recovery of the refrigerant and it does not match what is stated on the label factory fill charge.
I recovered Phill charge is correct I will not be performing any more leak test.
Because as you will see in the next video turned out to be another bigger problem a leak at the expansion valve sensing bulb
I have found UV leak detection dye to be the best method to find extremely small leaks. Inform the customer that you will recharge system and add a compatible UV dye. Then call me when it stops cooling again. I have yet to have the dye fail me. I even have a Snap-On borescope that has a UV bulb where you dont even need to wear the yellow glasses. It lights up green on the screen. The probe even has a 90 degree camera built-in for those tight access spots.
Yes, UV dye often works good not all the time.
I have a few videos where there’s large lakes where you could either see bubbles or can even hear or feel the leak and no oil and no dye comes out
In those cases, it doesn’t work
Usually I could find all leaks with a Ultrasonic leak detector or they’re extremely sensitive refrigerant leak detector so the customer doesn’t have to come back a second time .
Using the UV die has a Method for looking for leaks waste the customers time
I have some very expensive customers who don’t like their time wasted
And every time I see the car I have a minimum charge of $204 each time .
So that it’s very expensive very fast .
That’s why I rather spend $1000 on a good leak detector and find most all the leaks the first time and not waste the customers time or money
Hmmmm my situation is compounded by being colorblind
If all else fails , break out the H10
Yes, I have H10. That’s what I grew up on me and my brothers all grew up in the trade with the H10
Manufactured by General Electric in a leather case that you had to plug into the wall or extension cord. From 1970. It was my father’s..
@coldfinger459sub0 We have one, and I hate having to drag a cord around. Also, I hate the sensitivity adjustment.
@danleitner1635 the sensitivity adjustment is actually a advantage.
Milwaukee battery on one of the little tiny 110 V inverter plugged in to your 110 cord turns it into a portable machine.
Somebody just sent me a picture of their portable corded old H-10
Sometimes you have to dampen the coils with water to create a ultrasonic condition ultrasonic will pick it up with no problem
Call opinion using these since I was 12 years old when my dad started me that was over 40 years ago. These are excellent pieces of equipment.
They’re just a lot smaller and a lot cheaper now then they were 40 years ago
Pull the coil seal and pressurize… then stick in some water ull see bubbles
Ended up finding the leak later at a coiled equalizing tube on the expansion valve
@@coldfinger459sub0 what did you end up finding it with? Ultrasonic, bubbles, stratus?
@@libtrs838 I don’t quite remember it’s been too long, but I have another video on this unit probably showing the result. I’m trying to remember if it ended up being a ride through capillary tube off of the expansion valve.. for the powerhead.