Matt, great video, very well done. You are a gifted mechanic and produce a smooth video. I am the original owner of a Troy Built 6 HP Horse, bought in 1976. Still all original except tines and axel seals. Does burn a little oil, I have to keep the plug clean, but starts on first on second pull. It did start to have problems with the engine racing, corrected that with a Govenor adjustment, thanks to TH-cam for info. I am now a subscriber and look forward to more of you sharing knowledge. THANKS !
Hey Matt, Great video! Yours is one of the best I've seen. Great explanations, great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to do it. I figured from your description of the engine dying and the lack of compression and the exhaust thumping noise that it might have been exhaust valve failure so I thought you should have started with pulling the head off. But with the necessary components to remove for valve spring access, it was either pull the motor or the brush guard.
Matt, I just watched your video on your tiller rebuild, I also have one with the 8 hp engine. I was hoping you can tell me or show me how the springs attach on the throttle and the governor, I thing I'm missing something and I can't figure out how that whole area is set up. I got this tiller from a friend some what in pieces.
If you have this exact same engine there is only 1 governer spring. One end of the spring attaches to the end of the governer arm on the engine. The other end of the spring attaches to the throttle slider on the little throttle mounting plate.
You are on your way it is only a tiller but the fundamentals are still the same Lapping is to make the seal between valve and seat check periodically with a thin smear of Prussian blue to check you have sealing for 360deg
The paint is "Valspar Tractor and Implement Paint: Troy Bilt Red" Part number: Valspar 5339-30. You can get it here: amzn.to/3fzRpzH I got it at a local hardware store. It's WAYYY more expensive online. Might have to do a little searching. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Yeah, it's running but I'd not call it "great." It hunts a bit, hopefully needs just a carburetor adjustment; too bad you didn't just do that as it wouldn't take but a minute or two at most.
Matt's Shop Do not leave oven cleaner on an aluminum surface for extended periods. Spray it on and let it work for 15 minutes before rinsing it off with water to neutralize the active ingredient: sodium hydroxide. Repeat application and rinsing if needed. Always use rubber gloves and eye protection. Used properly, oven cleaner will remove carbon deposits from cylinder heads and exhaust ports with less chance of damage than a wire brush. Hope this helps.
Hey Yall! Parts and tools used in the description!
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro & Diagnosis
7:56 Engine Removal
11:13 Engine Teardown
15:08 Cylinder Head Inspection
17:46 Valve Inspection (PROBLEM FOUND)
21:17 Valve Removal
24:55 Carbon Removal
31:00 Valve Lapping
40:57 Setting Valve Clearances
44:55 Grinding Valve Stems
51:11 Valve Spring Installation & TRICK
57:20 Head Gasket Installation
1:02:45 Head Gasket Torquing
1:08:15 Briggs and Stratton Carburetor Gasket TRICK
1:13:05 Engine Installation
1:15:19 Starting Engine
1:17:03 Carburetor Tuning
1:18:50 Outro
You posted this 5 years ago and it just helped me out of a bind. Thanks for the video.
Awesome, you're welcome!
Matt, great video, very well done. You are a gifted mechanic and produce a smooth video. I am the original owner of a Troy Built 6 HP Horse, bought in 1976. Still all original except tines and axel seals. Does burn a little oil, I have to keep the plug clean, but starts on first on second pull. It did start to have problems with the engine racing, corrected that with a Govenor adjustment, thanks to TH-cam for info. I am now a subscriber and look forward to more of you sharing knowledge. THANKS !
Thanks, I appreciate it! Glad your Troy Bilt is working great! I replaced my engine, because It got unreliable for me. It was a 1994. Thx for the sub
Hey Matt, Great video! Yours is one of the best I've seen. Great explanations, great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to do it. I figured from your description of the engine dying and the lack of compression and the exhaust thumping noise that it might have been exhaust valve failure so I thought you should have started with pulling the head off. But with the necessary components to remove for valve spring access, it was either pull the motor or the brush guard.
Thanks for the positivity! Yea, it was much easier to just pull the engine out. You never really know with these things.
Good job on the engine, and the carburetor. Double gaskets and the teflon washer , prob be a good idea to use them from the get go.
Yea, sometimes you gotta get tricky with these old engines.
33:17 It's a garden scratcher, not the Space Shuttle! 🚀 Great details here thanks for this!!!
Nice video. I love repairing these. You had some great pointers.
These are great tillers!
I just got a tiller identical to yours, I love it!
Valve stuck
Same here I'd like to locate the generator setup for it
Great video Matt. Love the music, keep it up. Awesome.
Thanks!
I have the same engine that came on my tiller non running. I put a Honda engine on mine and put the Briggs on the shelf.
What a great how to video! Just awesome! I use Tekton tools too. Love them.
Thanks so much!
Matt, I just watched your video on your tiller rebuild, I also have one with the 8 hp engine. I was hoping you can tell me or show me how the springs attach on the throttle and the governor, I thing I'm missing something and I can't figure out how that whole area is set up. I got this tiller from a friend some what in pieces.
If you have this exact same engine there is only 1 governer spring. One end of the spring attaches to the end of the governer arm on the engine. The other end of the spring attaches to the throttle slider on the little throttle mounting plate.
Good job
Thanks
You are on your way it is only a tiller but the fundamentals are still the same
Lapping is to make the seal between valve and seat check periodically with a thin smear of Prussian blue to check you have sealing for 360deg
A prediter engine is lighter so you'll need to hang weight on the front to keep the balance even
This tiller actually has a solid steel weight bolted to the bottom of the engine.
Matt outstanding video where did you source your paint and what color of red is it ?
The paint is "Valspar Tractor and Implement Paint: Troy Bilt Red" Part number: Valspar 5339-30. You can get it here: amzn.to/3fzRpzH I got it at a local hardware store. It's WAYYY more expensive online. Might have to do a little searching.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Exhaust valve stuck open
Yup
Key wày
Please edit the videos and make it like a little package so you can watch one right after the other I would love to see that
I already did that. They are up.
Your good
You blew the piston
Sorta, the rings were worn out too.
Yeah, it's running but I'd not call it "great." It hunts a bit, hopefully needs just a carburetor adjustment; too bad you didn't just do that as it wouldn't take but a minute or two at most.
Cool, thanks for showing me how to not do a coulle things to an engine. Lol, jk. Good vid. Prob what I look like doing the same work
Hey, either way you're learning from me right???
@@MattsShop You know I am learning, thanks Matt your vids have helped me thru a couple tasks.
Most likely its repaired but seems like valve or Gov spring or sheer pin
Put a Honda GX on it and forget about engine problems.
I did eventually.
I put a gx 200 on mine. That was over two years ago. Never bogs or sputters. What Honda engine did you put on yours Matt.
Break and Scrapem engines. Their new engines mimic the Honda overhead valve engines which scavenge the cylinders much better.
I agree, the OHV engines are superior in everyway.
My guess is a blown head gasket.
I was wrong. lol
Yup, it wasn't a blown head gasket.
Oven cleaner is an effective chemical agent for removal of carbon. Acetone is ineffective.
I've tried that before. It works well, but can't it eat at the Aluminum?
Matt's Shop Do not leave oven cleaner on an aluminum surface for extended periods. Spray it on and let it work for 15 minutes before rinsing it off with water to neutralize the active ingredient: sodium hydroxide. Repeat application and rinsing if needed. Always use rubber gloves and eye protection. Used properly, oven cleaner will remove carbon deposits from cylinder heads and exhaust ports with less chance of damage than a wire brush. Hope this helps.
Ain't got no gas in it, Uh huh !
Valve
You're smart
you got a value problem
Yup
Hot glue!