Nicely done. Also very nice that you showed the downsides of these mods. At the end it shows one fact lots of poeple confuse: A higher resulution doesn't mean a higher accuracy. Unfortunately lots of poeple think that more digits behind the point means better accuracy...well especially clamp meters (nearly all of them) are what we call in german "Schätzeisen" what translates to something like "guessing iron" or "estimate iron". That said, it can be helpfull for troubleshooting to have an estimate of what is going on. You may also be able to see trends what is about to happen, but unfortunately those trends can also be related to temperature and other effects falsifying the measurement, so don't get to fixed to the exact number, especially the last on or two digits, you see on the display. That is especially true for the clamp-A-meter. As for the rest it is a nice thing to be able to change some settings.
Thank you for this recommendation! If I make a follow up video, I will try to point that out. But this kind of modification is done by a audiance, that hopefully knows about that.
Wow! Amazing and very creative. Too bad this does not come as a standard. Also very nice gesture from you to Andy @off-grid, he was, as I'm, still using the older D model. I was also not aware of those default settings & behaviour. Maybe you should set-up & start a business selling those modded UT210E. I would buy one and I believe more people would be interested.
My main job is installing Battery backup systems for Solar installations and also ESS systems with Victron equipment. So I actually have a business and can send you a official invoice, if you are interested. You can send me a e-mail: autarke-energieversorgung@posteo.de
@@Raphael_Hofmann Thanks, much appreciated! I have in fact ordered the outlined programming-tool as I want to experience it now myself. But I'm sure there are on-readers here who would appreciate contacting you to get it modded by you. Thanks again!
I did not do the 'increased count' mods to my 2 UT210E meters, but I did some other eeprom mods. I increased the 100A range to 300A, and moved the warning beep to 150A. This is because I found that (in my 2 meters) this range reads low if you measure over 150A - so beep reminds me that reading is only a rough indication of current beyond 150A. (iron jaws saturating was one theory on eevblog forum) In this video you used multiple turns of wire to get the high current, did you find readings accurate over 150A ? Also, you can get the 2A dc range offset down to +/- 12mA, and I made a collaboration video with TheHWcave (TH-camr) on how to tune the analogue Hall sensors to get this low offset - you also get an offset that does not change very much when you rotate the meter ! However, it's quite a difficult set of adjustments to make, and was fun for me to do, but I don't think most people would care so much - the zero button can do some of this for you.
Thank you for this insight! I found, that over 6A in the 2A range, it stops counting higher, even if there is a current of 9A. But only one way around. If you swap the meters orientation by 180°, it measured just fine. I should make a follow up video to explain that. But I am limited in time right now. It might be because of my PWM power supply in the current limiting range. If I just regulate the Voltage and current limiter on the power supply is not active, I don't have this problem.
@@Raphael_Hofmann Interesting. My question really was - when you measured high currents on the '100A' range in your video, using a power supply and multi turns of wire, do you remember whether the current readings were correct on the UT210E ? You had a reading of 400A finally I think. My two meters started reading low above 150A, and this got worse with higher currents, all measured using your method in the video.
My collaborator did most of the video work - it's a tricky subject to explain ! I worked out the method of the adjustment, because I noticed how much like an electronic compass the UT210E is, but trying to explain the method to my collaborator friend was quite hard - also, he couldn't get his meter to respond like my two did, so he did a good job with the video bearing all this in mind :o) Can I post links to other YT videos - not sure ??? I'll try this one - it's an unlisted video I made for TheHWcave to try and explain a part of the adjustment process during our collab. th-cam.com/video/1_z5R0iBhMw/w-d-xo.html It only makes any sense from about one third in !
Hi Raphael! Amazing job! Thank you very much! I found you on Andy’s “from hot Australia” video. Despite the fact that I am in electronics and have a degree in it, I would dare to ask you do you mind to modify a multimeter for me and send it to New Zealand? Happy to prepay you as well as send some SPAT’s for Andy for that :)
Well, I am based in Germany and shipping might not be cheap. If you really want me to mod the meter for your, let me know and send me a e-mail: autarke-energieversorgung@posteo.de
Hello Raphael, very nice video. I really appreciate your simplyfied explanation. Thank you very much for sharing this in very detailed steps. I own an UT219DS. I wonder if there is also a hack for this model with which you can customize and extend functions. Can you tell something about that? I found you on Andys Channel from 'sunny hot austrailia' 🙂 subscibed and liked -> thumbs up 🙂
I wished I had the time to research all that. But so far, I did not find any other information on how to pull that off. If you find such a EEPROM in the UT219DS, you can try to read it...but then you need some kind of translation on which caracter changes your desired function.
Hello, What are you doing with the multimeters with your electromagnet (magnetiser?)? I don't understand it in the video... Your English sounds like you are German? (dann darfst du auch gerne auf deutsch schreiben :))
Dieses Gerät schickt ein wechselndes Elektromagnetisches Feld durch die Metallteile der Klemme. Dadurch kann eine evtl. vorhandene Magnetisierung entfernt werden. Ein Demagnetisierer quasi um jedes statische Magnetfeld zu entfernen.
Hi, I mod with video part 1 and then I mod with video part 2 is ok ? and when doing part 2 does it affect and lose the function of part 1? Thank you so much for your sharing.
Ich habe auch das gleiche messgeräte und bin Laie. Warum beim strommessen zeigt das gerät z.b. 0.231 v an der Steckdose. Ein multimeter zeigt 230v an. Das mit 0. .... irretiert mich beim messen
Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Hatte jetzt vor der Meldung lange auf dem blauen Knopf gedrückt und siehe da steckdosensoannung wir jetzt mit 232 volt angezeigt. Vielen Dank.
I agree. But they probably want some headroom for further revesions, so that they can sell it for more money 😅 Also they do branging and sell to Voltcraft VC-337 (4000 counts up to 40A) or Extech MA63 (6000 counts up to 60A).
expand 100A range to 600A (dtm0660L chip)
07 = 70 (normally e8)
08 = 17 (normally 03)
Nicely done. Also very nice that you showed the downsides of these mods. At the end it shows one fact lots of poeple confuse: A higher resulution doesn't mean a higher accuracy. Unfortunately lots of poeple think that more digits behind the point means better accuracy...well especially clamp meters (nearly all of them) are what we call in german "Schätzeisen" what translates to something like "guessing iron" or "estimate iron". That said, it can be helpfull for troubleshooting to have an estimate of what is going on. You may also be able to see trends what is about to happen, but unfortunately those trends can also be related to temperature and other effects falsifying the measurement, so don't get to fixed to the exact number, especially the last on or two digits, you see on the display. That is especially true for the clamp-A-meter.
As for the rest it is a nice thing to be able to change some settings.
Thank you for this recommendation! If I make a follow up video, I will try to point that out. But this kind of modification is done by a audiance, that hopefully knows about that.
Wow!
Amazing and very creative. Too bad this does not come as a standard.
Also very nice gesture from you to Andy @off-grid, he was, as I'm, still using the older D model.
I was also not aware of those default settings & behaviour.
Maybe you should set-up & start a business selling those modded UT210E.
I would buy one and I believe more people would be interested.
My main job is installing Battery backup systems for Solar installations and also ESS systems with Victron equipment. So I actually have a business and can send you a official invoice, if you are interested. You can send me a e-mail: autarke-energieversorgung@posteo.de
@@Raphael_Hofmann Thanks, much appreciated!
I have in fact ordered the outlined programming-tool as I want to experience it now myself.
But I'm sure there are on-readers here who would appreciate contacting you to get it modded by you. Thanks again!
Fantastic job. 👌👍
Many thanks, great work. Passed on from Andy with his Spat 🤣
I did not do the 'increased count' mods to my 2 UT210E meters, but I did some other eeprom mods. I increased the 100A range to 300A, and moved the warning beep to 150A. This is because I found that (in my 2 meters) this range reads low if you measure over 150A - so beep reminds me that reading is only a rough indication of current beyond 150A. (iron jaws saturating was one theory on eevblog forum)
In this video you used multiple turns of wire to get the high current, did you find readings accurate over 150A ?
Also, you can get the 2A dc range offset down to +/- 12mA, and I made a collaboration video with TheHWcave (TH-camr) on how to tune the analogue Hall sensors to get this low offset - you also get an offset that does not change very much when you rotate the meter ! However, it's quite a difficult set of adjustments to make, and was fun for me to do, but I don't think most people would care so much - the zero button can do some of this for you.
Thank you for this insight! I found, that over 6A in the 2A range, it stops counting higher, even if there is a current of 9A. But only one way around. If you swap the meters orientation by 180°, it measured just fine. I should make a follow up video to explain that. But I am limited in time right now. It might be because of my PWM power supply in the current limiting range. If I just regulate the Voltage and current limiter on the power supply is not active, I don't have this problem.
Your Colab-Video on TheHWcave channel is really great! And I will mention that, if I do a follow up.
@@Raphael_Hofmann Interesting. My question really was - when you measured high currents on the '100A' range in your video, using a power supply and multi turns of wire, do you remember whether the current readings were correct on the UT210E ? You had a reading of 400A finally I think. My two meters started reading low above 150A, and this got worse with higher currents, all measured using your method in the video.
My collaborator did most of the video work - it's a tricky subject to explain ! I worked out the method of the adjustment, because I noticed how much like an electronic compass the UT210E is, but trying to explain the method to my collaborator friend was quite hard - also, he couldn't get his meter to respond like my two did, so he did a good job with the video bearing all this in mind :o)
Can I post links to other YT videos - not sure ??? I'll try this one - it's an unlisted video I made for TheHWcave to try and explain a part of the adjustment process during our collab.
th-cam.com/video/1_z5R0iBhMw/w-d-xo.html
It only makes any sense from about one third in !
I will try that again and let you know.@@noakeswalker
Gute Arbeit!
Danke, freut mich!
Amazing video 🤩 you gave a great Hack Thank you ☺️💪🏿❤️gréât work
Thank you 🙌
Hi Raphael! Amazing job! Thank you very much! I found you on Andy’s “from hot Australia” video. Despite the fact that I am in electronics and have a degree in it, I would dare to ask you do you mind to modify a multimeter for me and send it to New Zealand? Happy to prepay you as well as send some SPAT’s for Andy for that :)
Well, I am based in Germany and shipping might not be cheap. If you really want me to mod the meter for your, let me know and send me a e-mail: autarke-energieversorgung@posteo.de
Hello Raphael,
very nice video. I really appreciate your simplyfied explanation. Thank you very much for sharing this in very detailed steps.
I own an UT219DS. I wonder if there is also a hack for this model with which you can customize and extend functions.
Can you tell something about that?
I found you on Andys Channel from 'sunny hot austrailia' 🙂 subscibed and liked -> thumbs up 🙂
I wished I had the time to research all that. But so far, I did not find any other information on how to pull that off. If you find such a EEPROM in the UT219DS, you can try to read it...but then you need some kind of translation on which caracter changes your desired function.
Hello,
What are you doing with the multimeters with your electromagnet (magnetiser?)?
I don't understand it in the video...
Your English sounds like you are German? (dann darfst du auch gerne auf deutsch schreiben :))
Dieses Gerät schickt ein wechselndes Elektromagnetisches Feld durch die Metallteile der Klemme. Dadurch kann eine evtl. vorhandene Magnetisierung entfernt werden. Ein Demagnetisierer quasi um jedes statische Magnetfeld zu entfernen.
Hi, I mod with video part 1 and then I mod with video part 2 is ok ?
and when doing part 2 does it affect and lose the function of part 1?
Thank you so much for your sharing.
Hi, doing the mods in Part 2 does not affect the mods from Part 1
Let me know, when your mod worked.
Which is better, part 1 or part 2?
Part 1 is more important
@Raphael_Hofmann ok
Thank you.
On a wide reange, the cheapest meter is the most accurate meter
Ich habe auch das gleiche messgeräte und bin Laie. Warum beim strommessen zeigt das gerät z.b. 0.231 v an der Steckdose. Ein multimeter zeigt 230v an. Das mit 0. .... irretiert mich beim messen
Es sollte 230V anzeigen. Wenn es 0.230V anzeigt, ist etwas schief gelaufen.
Danke für die schnelle Antwort. Hatte jetzt vor der Meldung lange auf dem blauen Knopf gedrückt und siehe da steckdosensoannung wir jetzt mit 232 volt angezeigt. Vielen Dank.
Ja, es ist wichtig, dass du für Wechselstrommessungen im AC-Messmodus bist.@@a.p.30
Kinda sad that they dont have it as standard
I agree. But they probably want some headroom for further revesions, so that they can sell it for more money 😅
Also they do branging and sell to Voltcraft VC-337 (4000 counts up to 40A) or Extech MA63 (6000 counts up to 60A).