Mükemmel teshis bende aynısı var ve neden ölçümlerin sürekli farklı çıkmasına bi anlam verememiştim ayar potlarından ayarladım ve gerçeğe yakın geldi teşekkürler çok faydalı video
Great tutorial. I mamaged to calibrate mine to about +/- 20mA in N-S direction an 0mA in E-W direction. For this i turned VR4 countercolockwise when looking at it,till it showed positive numbers in E-W direction and then reduced them by turning VR+ to zero. Repeated this several times till i got a sweet spot in the range I mentioned bevore. However this was a real pain with this tiny pots. So I replaced them by some multiturn pots i placed directly below VR4. Of course this messed up my previous calibration. In my UT201E the pots were actually 10K so replaced them with the same value. The benefit is, I am now able to calibrate it from the side and a bit more precisely. However I don´t get it better calibrated than before, as turning VR4 more conunterclockvise again incrases the range between plus and minus. So this is the sweet spot for me. Beside this I stumbled across an other issue I´m having with this multimeter. By using an old inductive soldering iron and a 4mm cooper wire to demagneritize the clamp, I´m measuring 90A in the 20A range whereas it gives me 150A in the 100A range. Reducing the no. of counts doesn´t help either. It just masks this issue. With smaller AC currents both readings are accurate, so will have to investigate a bit more into this.
Glad the video helped and multi-turn pots are really what UNI-T should have used to begin with. I am somewhat confused by you measuring 90A in the 20A range? Did you increase the counts to extend the ranges? One side effect that has is to reduce the max. allowed crest factor. This can become a problem if the voltages/currents are no longer sinusoidal (pure sine already has a crest factor of 1.4) If the clamp is saturated by your test, it may cause non-sinusoidal waves which a range-boosted meter may have trouble with measuring correctly. That's just one possibility, but maybe you have a different cause. It would be interesting to hear your results.
@@TheHWcave well, yes I incrased the counts to 10000 as I´m pretty sure mine is a DM1106 Chip as it doesn´t show wrong readings when measuring AC voltage in the 230V range. Tried already reducing the counts with the result it just masked the issue in the 20A setting by showing OL, as it still showed 150A AC when switched over to 100A setting. Plus i spend yesterday evening with calibrating the 20A and the 100A range for a bit more accurate DC current readings. Used for this a cable which i turned 30 times around the clamp to simulate 90 A. The 100A range showed a bit more an the 20A range a bit less. After getting on both the exact same values also by using your calculation method I found out the 100A setting readings are quite linear in the whole range but for 20A this is not the case. So after calibrating both to 90A and reducing the current to 60A in the 20A setting I´m getting way more than 60A while the 100A setting still showed very accurate readings. So will have to find a compromise to get more or less acurate readings when measuring in the 20A setting. However after calibrating both, I still have the same behavior when measuring AC currents with the solder iron. So my guess is also the clamp might be saturated as you are saying, as the 150A are way above the crest faktor of √2 compared to the 90A AC measured in the 20A setting. So it´s just what it is supposed to be, a 100A clamp meter. But still enough to be a usable tool.
Thanks for the update. I guess you are right and you may have found the limits of what the clamp can handle, but for the cost of a UT210E, one can't really complain.
Man..! I love you! (I'm normally not thinking nonsense) You're kind of the Einstein of today and I'm serious, I'm not kidding! you are an expert in physics ... in programming and you have a brilliant mind! Thank you very much for the explanations and for enlightening our minds! But I want to tell you something: look ... for me for example (I work as a technician), it doesn't matter that this type of clamp-meter has errors like 3% ... or 5% for that the measurement of high currents is purely predictive in detecting malfunctions, it does not necessarily have to be accurate, it is simple to deduce! (I use Voltcraft VC-330) In the DC current chapter the error can be 10..25%! and magnetism and nothing matter anymore to find the missing power wire! If I want extra-precise measurements (uA ... mA) I use much more professional (and much more expensive) tools! Much respect for you and for video you make, but who knows how to work with multimeters like this believe me they are very intuitive people, and it is not based on their accuracy, for them it's just a simple info to deduce! All the best!
Many thanks for the kind words. I agree that more often than not I use my multi-meters just to get a rough answer, like is there power at all and if so does the value look about right. This adjustment video was just for the odd case were more accuracy is needed or folks having messed up the trimmers in the UT210E and looking for a way to fix it.
Mine shows around -380 mA out of the box offset. I put it at positive side of my car battery cable, then started the car again and removed it the offset. Just thought I'd share.(sorry for my bad english).
No worrys, your English is fine. Thanks for sharing. With a hall-effect based clamp meter it is good to occasional de-gauss (de-magnify) the clamp from any residual magnetism build-up
Hello. I have same tool but in dc i have an offset of 5.5A in 20A scale and shows OL on 2A scale. What can I do. The reset does nothing at all. Is it magnetized? What home tools can I use to fix
Wow, that is serious.How did that happen? I am asking because things to try would be different if that is accumulated magnetism, or a failed attempt in adjusting the trim pots or possibly a broken flat ribbon cable to the hall-effect sensors, or even a broken clamp assembly. Also make sure no strong neodymium magnets are close by. Does the 5.5A reading change with moving (rotating in 3D space) as well as moving to different rooms?
@@TheHWcave yes it changes rotating .. did not rouch trimpots... did not brake internal cables...look video i did 4 you th-cam.com/video/O8s-5ZPLRQo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. Lets first try to demagnetise it. The easiest way is if you could get one of these de-magnetisers: th-cam.com/video/AhTYBPdJG7A/w-d-xo.html You don't need to put the PTC mod in that I describe in that video, just move the UT210E slowly(!) away half a meter or so while keeping the button of the demagnetizer pressed. You probably have to repeat that a few dozend times but you should see an improvement in the reading on the UT210E. Also give the demagnetizer some cool down time. Long term having one of these is a good thing because you need to do that fairly often with the UT210E (and it might be handy do demagntise other things). You can build your own but unless you know what you are doing I would not consider connecting anything to mains voltage. If you have a strong AC transformer handy, that can provide a good AC current of 5A or more and is isolated from mains, you might try using it instead. Make a coil of sufficent diameter that the whole clamp part of the UT210E fits easily inside. Use isolated wire for the coil with decent thick copper core for the current. For example cables meant for mains can be used to extract a suitable wire. But you only need just one long wire. Make 30 or 40 turns neatly next to each other, Maybe on a short cardboard pipe of the right diameter . Put the UT210E inside, connect the coil to the AC transformer and slowly pull the UT210E out of the coil, Don't turn the coil off until the UT210 is a least half a meter away, May have to repeat that a few times. Remember the coil voltage must be AC (not rectified) and isolated from mains and watch to not overheat (melt!) your coil or transformer. Also the transformer may blow a fuse because it regards the coil as a short circuit, in which case you may have to put a resistor in series. That will probably get too complicated...
@@TheHWcave thanks again... can i use a motor winding from old water pump? Well i tried 4 times taking the clamp inside and leaving on getting the clamp off the magenetic field upwards gently... but remains the same... here is the motor used th-cam.com/video/1PdTUyl-omM/w-d-xo.html
@@marce002b In general that should work. Just to be sure. Take a screwdriver and make it magnetic (sliding a permanent magnet along its shaft). Confirm that it is by picking up paper clips or small screws. Then insert into your pump and do the same action as you do for the UT210E. Can you confirm that the screwdriver magnetism is gone afterwards?
I (or rather Google translate) struggle with this. You are saying that the meter sometimes beeps in continuity mode before you touch the probes to something? If so that means something is broken or contaminated. I would check the contacts of the range switch and also look for any contamination on the PCB. Maybe cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol helps
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Mükemmel teshis bende aynısı var ve neden ölçümlerin sürekli farklı çıkmasına bi anlam verememiştim ayar potlarından ayarladım ve gerçeğe yakın geldi teşekkürler çok faydalı video
Great tutorial. I mamaged to calibrate mine to about +/- 20mA in N-S direction an 0mA in E-W direction. For this i turned VR4 countercolockwise when looking at it,till it showed positive numbers in E-W direction and then reduced them by turning VR+ to zero. Repeated this several times till i got a sweet spot in the range I mentioned bevore. However this was a real pain with this tiny pots. So I replaced them by some multiturn pots i placed directly below VR4. Of course this messed up my previous calibration. In my UT201E the pots were actually 10K so replaced them with the same value. The benefit is, I am now able to calibrate it from the side and a bit more precisely. However I don´t get it better calibrated than before, as turning VR4 more conunterclockvise again incrases the range between plus and minus. So this is the sweet spot for me. Beside this I stumbled across an other issue I´m having with this multimeter. By using an old inductive soldering iron and a 4mm cooper wire to demagneritize the clamp, I´m measuring 90A in the 20A range whereas it gives me 150A in the 100A range. Reducing the no. of counts doesn´t help either. It just masks this issue. With smaller AC currents both readings are accurate, so will have to investigate a bit more into this.
Glad the video helped and multi-turn pots are really what UNI-T should have used to begin with. I am somewhat confused by you measuring 90A in the 20A range? Did you increase the counts to extend the ranges? One side effect that has is to reduce the max. allowed crest factor. This can become a problem if the voltages/currents are no longer sinusoidal (pure sine already has a crest factor of 1.4) If the clamp is saturated by your test, it may cause non-sinusoidal waves which a range-boosted meter may have trouble with measuring correctly. That's just one possibility, but maybe you have a different cause. It would be interesting to hear your results.
@@TheHWcave well, yes I incrased the counts to 10000 as I´m pretty sure mine is a DM1106 Chip as it doesn´t show wrong readings when measuring AC voltage in the 230V range. Tried already reducing the counts with the result it just masked the issue in the 20A setting by showing OL, as it still showed 150A AC when switched over to 100A setting. Plus i spend yesterday evening with calibrating the 20A and the 100A range for a bit more accurate DC current readings. Used for this a cable which i turned 30 times around the clamp to simulate 90 A. The 100A range showed a bit more an the 20A range a bit less. After getting on both the exact same values also by using your calculation method I found out the 100A setting readings are quite linear in the whole range but for 20A this is not the case. So after calibrating both to 90A and reducing the current to 60A in the 20A setting I´m getting way more than 60A while the 100A setting still showed very accurate readings. So will have to find a compromise to get more or less acurate readings when measuring in the 20A setting. However after calibrating both, I still have the same behavior when measuring AC currents with the solder iron. So my guess is also the clamp might be saturated as you are saying, as the 150A are way above the crest faktor of √2 compared to the 90A AC measured in the 20A setting. So it´s just what it is supposed to be, a 100A clamp meter. But still enough to be a usable tool.
Thanks for the update. I guess you are right and you may have found the limits of what the clamp can handle, but for the cost of a UT210E, one can't really complain.
Man..! I love you! (I'm normally not thinking nonsense) You're kind of the Einstein of today and I'm serious, I'm not kidding! you are an expert in physics ... in programming and you have a brilliant mind! Thank you very much for the explanations and for enlightening our minds! But I want to tell you something: look ... for me for example (I work as a technician), it doesn't matter that this type of clamp-meter has errors like 3% ... or 5% for that the measurement of high currents is purely predictive in detecting malfunctions, it does not necessarily have to be accurate, it is simple to deduce! (I use Voltcraft VC-330) In the DC current chapter the error can be 10..25%! and magnetism and nothing matter anymore to find the missing power wire! If I want extra-precise measurements (uA ... mA) I use much more professional (and much more expensive) tools! Much respect for you and for video you make, but who knows how to work with multimeters like this believe me they are very intuitive people, and it is not based on their accuracy, for them it's just a simple info to deduce! All the best!
Many thanks for the kind words. I agree that more often than not I use my multi-meters just to get a rough answer, like is there power at all and if so does the value look about right. This adjustment video was just for the odd case were more accuracy is needed or folks having messed up the trimmers in the UT210E and looking for a way to fix it.
All good sir !
Dave.
Mine shows around -380 mA out of the box offset. I put it at positive side of my car battery cable, then started the car again and removed it the offset. Just thought I'd share.(sorry for my bad english).
No worrys, your English is fine. Thanks for sharing. With a hall-effect based clamp meter it is good to occasional de-gauss (de-magnify) the clamp from any residual magnetism build-up
Hello. I have same tool but in dc i have an offset of 5.5A in 20A scale and shows OL on 2A scale. What can I do. The reset does nothing at all. Is it magnetized? What home tools can I use to fix
Wow, that is serious.How did that happen? I am asking because things to try would be different if that is accumulated magnetism, or a failed attempt in adjusting the trim pots or possibly a broken flat ribbon cable to the hall-effect sensors, or even a broken clamp assembly. Also make sure no strong neodymium magnets are close by. Does the 5.5A reading change with moving (rotating in 3D space) as well as moving to different rooms?
@@TheHWcave yes it changes rotating .. did not rouch trimpots... did not brake internal cables...look video i did 4 you
th-cam.com/video/O8s-5ZPLRQo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. Lets first try to demagnetise it. The easiest way is if you could get one of these de-magnetisers: th-cam.com/video/AhTYBPdJG7A/w-d-xo.html
You don't need to put the PTC mod in that I describe in that video, just move the UT210E slowly(!) away half a meter or so while keeping the button of the demagnetizer pressed. You probably have to repeat that a few dozend times but you should see an improvement in the reading on the UT210E. Also give the demagnetizer some cool down time. Long term having one of these is a good thing because you need to do that fairly often with the UT210E (and it might be handy do demagntise other things). You can build your own but unless you know what you are doing I would not consider connecting anything to mains voltage. If you have a strong AC transformer handy, that can provide a good AC current of 5A or more and is isolated from mains, you might try using it instead. Make a coil of sufficent diameter that the whole clamp part of the UT210E fits easily inside. Use isolated wire for the coil with decent thick copper core for the current. For example cables meant for mains can be used to extract a suitable wire. But you only need just one long wire. Make 30 or 40 turns neatly next to each other, Maybe on a short cardboard pipe of the right diameter . Put the UT210E inside, connect the coil to the AC transformer and slowly pull the UT210E out of the coil, Don't turn the coil off until the UT210 is a least half a meter away, May have to repeat that a few times. Remember the coil voltage must be AC (not rectified) and isolated from mains and watch to not overheat (melt!) your coil or transformer. Also the transformer may blow a fuse because it regards the coil as a short circuit, in which case you may have to put a resistor in series. That will probably get too complicated...
@@TheHWcave thanks again... can i use a motor winding from old water pump? Well i tried 4 times taking the clamp inside and leaving on getting the clamp off the magenetic field upwards gently... but remains the same... here is the motor used th-cam.com/video/1PdTUyl-omM/w-d-xo.html
@@marce002b In general that should work. Just to be sure. Take a screwdriver and make it magnetic (sliding a permanent magnet along its shaft). Confirm that it is by picking up paper clips or small screws. Then insert into your pump and do the same action as you do for the UT210E. Can you confirm that the screwdriver magnetism is gone afterwards?
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I (or rather Google translate) struggle with this. You are saying that the meter sometimes beeps in continuity mode before you touch the probes to something? If so that means something is broken or contaminated. I would check the contacts of the range switch and also look for any contamination on the PCB. Maybe cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol helps
@@TheHWcave
Thank u very much
I'm going to throw mine in the trash! aneng has this problem?
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