Excellent. I had the same problem with the circulator working intermittently. I followed your clip and had ONE solder that simply disappeared. I resoldered it and now works beautiful! Honeywell needs to do better quality control in their manufacturing factories! Thank you very much!👍
Also having trouble with my Aquastat and will work thru this fix if it is the problem (Intermittent firing.) NOTE: I also had this problem with the kitchen stove. It originates from what I understand from the manufacture of the board. The solder joints are "cold" and do not bond correctly and when the power heats up the joint because of high resistance the remaining solder just flows away from the joint. Boom! no connection. Fixed the stove 2 years ago and is still working. I guess this will be the next project. Thanks so much for the schooling, I LOVE YT providers who do this kind of stuff!
The brushes on the burner motor could also be going bad. Check the output of the aquastat for power with a multimeter. If there is no power, the problem is in the aquastat. If there is power the burner motor is the problem. Good luck on your repair.
Great video. I’ll add a few comments. Your Tridicator was replaced, but with a long instead of short stem so it’s sticking out. But it’s allowing access to the mounting screw on the aquastat. A triple aquastat like your Honeywell cost about $160, but if solder joints are getting blow out, I would replace the whole thing with a electronic one like the Aquastat 3200 for Gas (3250 for Oil) which has temperature and status lights indicating boiler activity. By looking at the 3200 indicators, I can see the water temperature, if there is a heat call, and with the Economy function, it will try to adjust temperatures down in warm days and not just turn the boiler on/off like your electro-mechanical unit. Also, it seems my old Honeywell wasn’t heating water to the 180 setting I selected, but a lower temperature which I discovered after installing the electronic asquastat.
@tonymanero5544 Thanks for your response. I have a spare aquastat and have done the same repair on both. They last about 7 years after the fix. I will have to check out the 3250.
The soldering and contacts sanded worked for a few days. But I had to install a new aquastat. no problem one hour install turned on everything fired up except the furnace and that’s because I didn’t put the jumper on for the 24 V on the Honeywell J1009. I believe that’s the last four digits. I couldn’t of done it without you. Thank you.
Just as your video showed. Where did the solder go? For me, it wasn't the circulator, it was the oil burner. But thank you Brian, we have heat again. Yay!
Thank you sir. I am having same problem where pump won't run, but boiler is heating. The relay is moving but is making a buzzing sound. I am going to replace or repair this myself after watching this, I thought there was water under pressure where the thermostat slides into the pipe.
Also, in another version of this Aquastat, there is a 6 pin connector for damper control. The solder joints on this connector also frequently go bad and can be repaired.
Hi came across your video, I can turn my thermostat up to a higher room temp. Circulator pump kicks on, but boiler don't turn on. Would you happen to know why, or could this be my issue what you just did
@nickpanhead7209 If you own a voltage meter, check if there is power going to the burner. If the circulator is running and there's no power on the burner lines, then the problem is in the aquastat. If there is power going to the burner and it's not running, the burner motor may need to be replaced.
I appreciate you getting back to me. I have 2 zones, one zone works correctly and the other 1. Just the circulator pump turns on, one of the thermostats is wired to the aquistat the other is wired to a relay box. The thermostat wires that are going to the aquastat. I am going to remove and ring out wires to the thermostat. Just to make sure i'm dealing with the correct set of wires that I'm having an issue with what terminals go to the oil burner itself in the aquastat. The first zone I have no problem. I turned the heat on and the boiler Kix in the one. I'm having an issue with just the circulator pump turns on no boiler. I feel it is the aquestat like you're saying is that something that could be fixed with soldering, if it is. Thank you for your help. Hopefully, you can get back to me. Once again?
Great Job Brian , I'm sure many people run into this common problem... minor suggestion and if possible use a desolder wick to pull all old solder off board ,clean with alcohol , and when resoldering if you access to solder flux pen apply 1st and you'll end up with factory type strong solder. In a pintch I'd do exactly as you did, once more GREAT JOB BRIAN !! my 2 cents : Mass.🛠 plumber
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Excellent explanation and video of the repair. I will give this a shot before calling a technician. Thanks for the demo.
Excellent. I had the same problem with the circulator working intermittently. I followed your clip and had ONE solder that simply disappeared. I resoldered it and now works beautiful! Honeywell needs to do better quality control in their manufacturing factories! Thank you very much!👍
Great 👍. I'm glad I could help.
Also having trouble with my Aquastat and will work thru this fix if it is the problem (Intermittent firing.) NOTE: I also had this problem with the kitchen stove. It originates from what I understand from the manufacture of the board. The solder joints are "cold" and do not bond correctly and when the power heats up the joint because of high resistance the remaining solder just flows away from the joint. Boom! no connection. Fixed the stove 2 years ago and is still working. I guess this will be the next project. Thanks so much for the schooling, I LOVE YT providers who do this kind of stuff!
The brushes on the burner motor could also be going bad. Check the output of the aquastat for power with a multimeter. If there is no power, the problem is in the aquastat. If there is power the burner motor is the problem. Good luck on your repair.
Perfect Fix! This was the exact problem! The heat is back on!
Great video. I’ll add a few comments. Your Tridicator was replaced, but with a long instead of short stem so it’s sticking out. But it’s allowing access to the mounting screw on the aquastat. A triple aquastat like your Honeywell cost about $160, but if solder joints are getting blow out, I would replace the whole thing with a electronic one like the Aquastat 3200 for Gas (3250 for Oil) which has temperature and status lights indicating boiler activity. By looking at the 3200 indicators, I can see the water temperature, if there is a heat call, and with the Economy function, it will try to adjust temperatures down in warm days and not just turn the boiler on/off like your electro-mechanical unit. Also, it seems my old Honeywell wasn’t heating water to the 180 setting I selected, but a lower temperature which I discovered after installing the electronic asquastat.
@tonymanero5544 Thanks for your response. I have a spare aquastat and have done the same repair on both. They last about 7 years after the fix. I will have to check out the 3250.
Learned a lot, excellent presenation! Thank You
Thank you very much. This is exactly what just happened to mine about to disassemble and solder here soon. Thank you.
You're welcome and I am glad my video helped you. Good luck with the repair.
The soldering and contacts sanded worked for a few days. But I had to install a new aquastat. no problem one hour install turned on everything fired up except the furnace and that’s because I didn’t put the jumper on for the 24 V on the Honeywell J1009. I believe that’s the last four digits. I couldn’t of done it without you. Thank you.
Fantastic job. So clear. Thanks.
Just as your video showed. Where did the solder go? For me, it wasn't the circulator, it was the oil burner. But thank you Brian, we have heat again. Yay!
I'm trying this before I call the tech. Thanks!
@@dustpan2000 I hope you can fix it.
God bless you🙏, good job fixing it
So I had the same problem. Thank you, you saved me from buying a new one.
I am so glad I helped you out. I had to learn the hard way. I ended up paying over $700.00 for an emergency service. Best wishes to you.
I think I have the same issue going on. Would you know how long this fix will last? Thanks in advance for any information!
@@menaauto on my aquastat it lasted about 8 years and then I did it again and it is still good. My Boiler is about 22 years old.
Thank you sir. I am having same problem where pump won't run, but boiler is heating. The relay is moving but is making a buzzing sound. I am going to replace or repair this myself after watching this, I thought there was water under pressure where the thermostat slides into the pipe.
Hey Dad!! No more coffee for you.
Thanks for the education.
Also, in another version of this Aquastat, there is a 6 pin connector for damper control. The solder joints on this connector also frequently go bad and can be repaired.
Good to know, Thanks for commenting.
Best explanation.
Thanks
great video just like a pro...
Awesome video, thank you
Very good nice tip thank you
Hi came across your video, I can turn my thermostat up to a higher room temp. Circulator pump kicks on, but boiler don't turn on. Would you happen to know why, or could this be my issue what you just did
@nickpanhead7209 If you own a voltage meter, check if there is power going to the burner. If the circulator is running and there's no power on the burner lines, then the problem is in the aquastat. If there is power going to the burner and it's not running, the burner motor may need to be replaced.
I appreciate you getting back to me. I have 2 zones, one zone works correctly and the other 1. Just the circulator pump turns on, one of the thermostats is wired to the aquistat the other is wired to a relay box. The thermostat wires that are going to the aquastat. I am going to remove and ring out wires to the thermostat. Just to make sure i'm dealing with the correct set of wires that I'm having an issue with what terminals go to the oil burner itself in the aquastat.
The first zone I have no problem. I turned the heat on and the boiler Kix in the one. I'm having an issue with just the circulator pump turns on no boiler. I feel it is the aquestat like you're saying is that something that could be fixed with soldering, if it is.
Thank you for your help. Hopefully, you can get back to me.
Once again?
Good video. Thankyou
Thank you Sr
Thats unwelded. Its fron the contactor shaping on off thats normal
Its chinese
It’s made in the USA.
Great Job Brian , I'm sure many people run into this common problem... minor suggestion and if possible use a desolder wick to pull all old solder off board ,clean with alcohol , and when resoldering if you access to solder flux pen apply 1st and you'll end up with factory type strong solder. In a pintch I'd do exactly as you did, once more GREAT JOB BRIAN !!
my 2 cents : Mass.🛠 plumber