Thanks for the heads up. I'm not sure if the cap is polarized on the top but it's from he manual. The aluminium case has some coating so it doesn't conduct electricity as long as the the coating is still there. Anyway, I'll cover it up just to be safe.
@@BeaversHobby this type of capacitors is not polarized, but has exposed pads on all sides (even on top), so yes, you'd better coat it with something like capton tape
thank you just ordered one as well this video should be useful when i get mine hoping it will fit my 1/43 car going to order a 1/24 soon. i will have to check your other videos.
the video is very good but I need some help. I have a v4-s01 gyro and after I set it up I cant turn left. I cant figure it out so if someone knows it pls help. thanks
Seems like it registered the wrong value. You can try and do the process again but this time you start with the opposite side. Or just reset it altogether and use it without the EPA.
Unfortunately, not this one exactly. There's another model for Flysky AFHDS protocol This will only work with 4-in-1 multiprotocol version. www.gt55racing.com/products/gt55racing-flysky-afhds-built-in-gyro-nano-rx?DIST=RUZBGw%3D%3D If you have the ELRS version you can use a separated gyro unit like this. www.gt55racing.com/products/gt55racing-gyro-v4-for-1-24-1-28-drift-car-gt55-v4-s01?DIST=RUZBGw%3D%3D
We use it for RWD drifting. On a real car there's a friction between the road and the tyres so when the car swings the tyres also keep contact and turn the wheels. On an Rc, there is none of that. If the car swings and you let go of the steering, the wheels will just point straight. So we need the gyro to simulate that motion and turn the wheels. ps. It's not a stupid question at all.
Hi, I'm planning to buy their futaba gyro receiver v5, but when I checked the description, there's no t3pv on the list of compatible transmitters. I'm just wondering if it's compatible or not before spending $65 for it. Thank you if you could help with this.
Hey Beaver.. is it possible to run a light kit with this receiver / gyro combo? Being that there would be a 4th plug require from the light control until to detect throttle and steering inputs 🤔
NB4 (the standard one) has the best price per performance ratio. The price varies from place to place but if you can get one for under $200 it's already great and nothing comes close at that price.
Good video, definitly gt55 offers a very good electronic. By the way. Would you recomend HGD1 for a very tight budget? (280€) PD: Is my first car so I have to buy the radio, battery and charger
Not really. I think the HGD1 chassis is around 170-190 Eur so at that price you can get the TG Racing or you can get the BMR-X with wheels. If you go with absolute minimum for transmitter and charger then you should be able to made do with 280 Eur.
@@BeaversHobby I appreciate your reviews as always. Can you please tell if you know Turbo racing C75 is faster than Turbo racing C81 ? Is there alot of difference?. C81 goes 7 km/h. How fast is C75 please. Thank you.
@@raydavis7685 The C81 monster truck is slightly faster but it is more difficult to control. The steering is more vague than the onroad cars. All in all if you can get both running straight at the same time you won't see much difference anyway.
I bought one if the rtr tg racing rwd but the epa settings is out, having difficulty to set with dumborc transmitter. Further, one of the front tires lift up when turn left. Not sure on how to settle this issues, any suggestions. Thanks.
The front tyres lift is pretty serious. You'll have to see what pulls it up when you turn. It's most likely the EPA or if the transmitter doesn't have EPA then you'll need to do it in the dual rate (D/R). Try and set the servo to exact centre when it's at 0 trim first then turn the D/R down until it doesn't lift the wheels at full lock. The EPA depends on the model of the transmitter. I remember the cheap version of DumboRC doesn't have that. Anyway, you'll need to find the exact model of your transmitter and check the manual.
Hi beaver, is there any gyro that you'd compare to the gt55 v4? I'm looking at making a cheap 1/18 ldrc setup and even if I absolutely love having my gt55 in it it definitely feels frustrating to put a 50$ gyro in a 50$ car. Granted if you'd say for the price you can't get better value, I'll keep it in since it's much better than any other gyro I tried so far and just buy an other one for my drift art. I'll also try it out in my Sakura d5 and let you know how smooth it runs
There's AFRC GYS-2 V4 which should be a bit cheaper than GT55. There's also DasMikro gyro which is even cheaper. I use DasMikro with my BMR-X and it's really good. Not as good as dampening as the GT55 V4 but good enough.
@@BeaversHobbymy gt55 doesn't work with my new XM4FG receiver, it twitches like crazy and cannot be set-up. Analog vs digital options? Different output signal 1520us? Set up was easy but only worked with my X6FG receivers.
I never break a gyro before built-in or otherwise so I can't comment on the durability. However there's a risk. Having a built-in means if anything goes wrong you will loose the whole thing because all is on the same board. With this type (nano gyro receiver) you can potentially fix it by replacing the gyro board though.
Marka Racing 350mAh is really good. It's a flat battery that should fit most of the cars recently come out. It also comes with JST-PH plug for Atomic ESC too. Another option is GNB HV 300mAh. This one packs a lot of punch but it's square so it's about 1mm taller than Marka but narrower.
@BeaversHobby Thanks for that! My batteries also have separated balance plug to the negative and positive. I am guessing the ones bow are basically the balance plug providing everything? (The three wires)
@@tremorflow3614 Yes, the one with 3 wires basically only give you the balance plug. I forgot to mention you'll need to make an adapter to charge it because most of the chargers accept +, - and JST-XH 2.5mm for balance..
![[Review & Tutorial] Power HD G1 Drift Gyro With EPA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fM4rk6PV0ls/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Review & Tutorial] Power HD G1 Drift Gyro With EPA](/img/tr.png)
YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST NOT EXPOSE THE CAPACITOR (top one on 2:31). It will short to the aluminum case!
Thanks for the heads up.
I'm not sure if the cap is polarized on the top but it's from he manual. The aluminium case has some coating so it doesn't conduct electricity as long as the the coating is still there. Anyway, I'll cover it up just to be safe.
@@BeaversHobby this type of capacitors is not polarized, but has exposed pads on all sides (even on top), so yes, you'd better coat it with something like capton tape
thank you just ordered one as well this video should be useful when i get mine hoping it will fit my 1/43 car going to order a 1/24 soon. i will have to check your other videos.
the video is very good but I need some help. I have a v4-s01 gyro and after I set it up I cant turn left. I cant figure it out so if someone knows it pls help. thanks
Seems like it registered the wrong value. You can try and do the process again but this time you start with the opposite side. Or just reset it altogether and use it without the EPA.
Would this work well with the mt12? Or do you recommend another gyro to use with it? Also, what servo would you pair with the gyro you recommend?
Unfortunately, not this one exactly. There's another model for Flysky AFHDS protocol This will only work with 4-in-1 multiprotocol version. www.gt55racing.com/products/gt55racing-flysky-afhds-built-in-gyro-nano-rx?DIST=RUZBGw%3D%3D
If you have the ELRS version you can use a separated gyro unit like this. www.gt55racing.com/products/gt55racing-gyro-v4-for-1-24-1-28-drift-car-gt55-v4-s01?DIST=RUZBGw%3D%3D
Thank you. I've learned so much from your videos . Keep up the great work.
stupid question from a newbie to the hobby, but why does an rc car need a gyro?
We use it for RWD drifting. On a real car there's a friction between the road and the tyres so when the car swings the tyres also keep contact and turn the wheels. On an Rc, there is none of that. If the car swings and you let go of the steering, the wheels will just point straight. So we need the gyro to simulate that motion and turn the wheels.
ps. It's not a stupid question at all.
Hi, I'm planning to buy their futaba gyro receiver v5, but when I checked the description, there's no t3pv on the list of compatible transmitters. I'm just wondering if it's compatible or not before spending $65 for it. Thank you if you could help with this.
It should work because 3PV also supports T-FHSS. You will have to switch it to that mode though. Normally it runs on S-FHSS.
Hey Beaver.. is it possible to run a light kit with this receiver / gyro combo? Being that there would be a 4th plug require from the light control until to detect throttle and steering inputs 🤔
Yes, it's possible. It depends on the light kit though. If it's the light kit only needs 1 extra channel to change the modes then yes, it'll work.
Hi Beaver, think I'm gonna have to upgrade from radiolink. What do you reckon? NB4 might be possible but anything cheaper?
NB4 (the standard one) has the best price per performance ratio. The price varies from place to place but if you can get one for under $200 it's already great and nothing comes close at that price.
Good video, definitly gt55 offers a very good electronic. By the way. Would you recomend HGD1 for a very tight budget? (280€)
PD: Is my first car so I have to buy the radio, battery and charger
Not really. I think the HGD1 chassis is around 170-190 Eur so at that price you can get the TG Racing or you can get the BMR-X with wheels. If you go with absolute minimum for transmitter and charger then you should be able to made do with 280 Eur.
Please review TG Racing Chassis
Thanks for the suggestion. Will try to get that.
@@BeaversHobby
I appreciate your reviews as always. Can you please tell if you know Turbo racing C75 is faster than Turbo racing C81 ? Is there alot of difference?. C81 goes 7 km/h. How fast is C75 please. Thank you.
@@raydavis7685 The C81 monster truck is slightly faster but it is more difficult to control. The steering is more vague than the onroad cars. All in all if you can get both running straight at the same time you won't see much difference anyway.
I needed this video! Thank you!
Can you bind it to the fly sky noble mb4?
Yes, of course. The one you see in this video is also Flysky Noble NB4.
Thank you so much appreciate it
Thank you Beaver’San
Hey do you have any experience with the hgv1 chassis (cheapest on gt55 86$) ? It seems to be pretty much the same as the hgd1 chassis
It's HGD1 but plastic. From what I see the others who have it, it drives the same as HGD1.
I bought one if the rtr tg racing rwd but the epa settings is out, having difficulty to set with dumborc transmitter. Further, one of the front tires lift up when turn left. Not sure on how to settle this issues, any suggestions. Thanks.
The front tyres lift is pretty serious. You'll have to see what pulls it up when you turn. It's most likely the EPA or if the transmitter doesn't have EPA then you'll need to do it in the dual rate (D/R). Try and set the servo to exact centre when it's at 0 trim first then turn the D/R down until it doesn't lift the wheels at full lock.
The EPA depends on the model of the transmitter. I remember the cheap version of DumboRC doesn't have that. Anyway, you'll need to find the exact model of your transmitter and check the manual.
Hi beaver, is there any gyro that you'd compare to the gt55 v4?
I'm looking at making a cheap 1/18 ldrc setup and even if I absolutely love having my gt55 in it it definitely feels frustrating to put a 50$ gyro in a 50$ car.
Granted if you'd say for the price you can't get better value, I'll keep it in since it's much better than any other gyro I tried so far and just buy an other one for my drift art.
I'll also try it out in my Sakura d5 and let you know how smooth it runs
There's AFRC GYS-2 V4 which should be a bit cheaper than GT55. There's also DasMikro gyro which is even cheaper. I use DasMikro with my BMR-X and it's really good. Not as good as dampening as the GT55 V4 but good enough.
@@BeaversHobbymy gt55 doesn't work with my new XM4FG receiver, it twitches like crazy and cannot be set-up.
Analog vs digital options? Different output signal 1520us?
Set up was easy but only worked with my X6FG receivers.
some says the rx gyro was easier to die than the separated one? What is your opinion?
I never break a gyro before built-in or otherwise so I can't comment on the durability. However there's a risk. Having a built-in means if anything goes wrong you will loose the whole thing because all is on the same board.
With this type (nano gyro receiver) you can potentially fix it by replacing the gyro board though.
Great video!
Do you have any battery recommendations? I have a DRZ3 and a few 350mah drone batteries but they are too big unfortunately
Marka Racing 350mAh is really good. It's a flat battery that should fit most of the cars recently come out. It also comes with JST-PH plug for Atomic ESC too.
Another option is GNB HV 300mAh. This one packs a lot of punch but it's square so it's about 1mm taller than Marka but narrower.
@BeaversHobby Thanks for that!
My batteries also have separated balance plug to the negative and positive. I am guessing the ones bow are basically the balance plug providing everything? (The three wires)
@@tremorflow3614 Yes, the one with 3 wires basically only give you the balance plug. I forgot to mention you'll need to make an adapter to charge it because most of the chargers accept +, - and JST-XH 2.5mm for balance..
I❤GT55