Men's Boulder final highlights || Hachioji 2023
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 เม.ย. 2023
- Experienced climbers Chon Jongwon and Fujii Kokoro faced a pack of four promising young talents, led by France's Paul Jenft and Mejdi Schalck, in the men's Boulder final that sealed the IFSC World Cup in Hachioji, Japan.
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Congrats to Mejdi ! Very promising young climber 🔥
As part of the coverage I would love to see the tops by the route setters, especially the problems no competitors completed, and ones with alternate techniques.
I’m guessing they didn’t top them, they probably just stuck of a few of the moves and said “yup, it goes”.
At least Mejdi passed the 4th boulder, but after the competition (saw it on Instagram). So it seems actually feasible.
But I'm not sure that the route setters always top their own boulder, probably just make it move after move.
You mean you want a squad of several routesetters who have a regular job and are as good as the best climbing athletes in the world? You won't see those requirements met anytime soon, if ever. C'mon, setting in this final round probably wasn't ideal, not enough variety sure, a lot of gymnastics and some gambling with whether or not the route can be topped in given amount of time, but that's the sport, we've seen it before. Setting at this level simply is fucking difficult, there is a lot of guessing and gambling involved, precisely (among other factors related to the sport in general) routesetters cannot be expected to exactly predict the level of the athletes reliably every time.
@@Hopesfallout well according to the commentary the route setters tested all the routes before the event. I think it would be great content to film it then just show it after the event. Though maybe there are security issues.
@@freakydisorders of course it was "tested", doesn't mean any of them linked all the moves without knowing the exact beta or could be expected to.
IFSC guidelines for route setters are urgently needed
What do you mean, what kind of guidelines
@@seanhouchins-mccallum1961
1. Don't make it too easy
2. Don't make it too hard
These smoothbrains think routesetting is a simple one dimensional job...
@@0980s Also, depending on who you ask:
1. Make it spectacular and use lots of dynamic/coordination moves
2. Bring back old-school, more "real" climbing on crimps and pulling hard.
When are we going to get full events rather than just highlights. Highlights are barely worth watching
u have to look under the live section of the channel, the vods of the full events are there
@@bigpoopeater depending on where you live, they are not always available (in Europe for exemple).
@Percy Aurorus I live in England and the last live video is from 6 months ago.
Wow, they were available just like 5 hours ago in Germany and now they are gone. Why????
It’s on discovery+
I started bouldering when I was 4 years old and now I'm 12 yeas old girl.. I really love watchin you channel
Why can't I watch the whole finals on the olympic channel 24h later in Italy? Reads "The video is not available in your country". Is it not available for free anymore in Europe?
Have you checked the live section on the ifsc channel?
@Dyren live section of the channel doesn't show it for me, I am in england. It is blocked for european watchers. The Olympic channel seems blocked for me too. Also to get to where the stream should be, you have to go through articles saying who won. Really annoying.
Apparently IFSC sold broadcasting rights to others.
Man I gotta say these were… really really insane boulders. And honestly, not in a great way. One dude almost landed on his head for the stupid move. I hate those comments that say “this is parkour” but this is like, overthinking bouldering to the max. Cmon man. Throw some more crimps into the mix.
But it IS parkour, so what's wrong with saying that out loud? 😂 I personally am ok with coordination moves here and there, but constantly forcing the climbers to do multiple no hands jumps so high will result in bad injuries at some point. And it gets really boring to watch, too.
Parkour from start to finish. A route not even the tall guy finishes. Just brilliant routesetting😍
I hope you're joking 😅 I think it's the most boring part about modern comp routesetting - those parkoury double or triple dynos that have nothing to do with actual climbing. Every competition right now has atleast one boulder set in this way with a very long coordinated dyno that's high risk high reward. It's entertaining the first few time you see it but after watching a few competitions you start seeing how exactly the same all those type of boulders are and it's just getting stale.
@@januszbujnowski5870 Of course I am joking and truly hope that this trend dies soon and in the most violent way possible. We will probably need an athlete that breaks his or her neck during a triple jump. Without this fatality we will have to accept that what used to a sport about climbing is now a jumping show.
You are absolutely right. So unnecessarily dangerous setting. Multiple parkour moves at 3 meters height? Thanks, I hate it...
Remember when you were able to watch the whole event for free on TH-cam and also check the replay?
Pepperidge farm remembers
What do you mean? it was literally live streamed
@@darkofight in several countries, diffusion rights were sold to sport channels. Leading to unavailability of the streams.
@@bastouflette2552 VPN to the USA works just fine
@@Jonago. doesn't mean everyone can do it. Btw if you have a free VPN in mind, I take it.
@@bastouflette2552 I only have a paid one, sorry
IFSC right before each boulder please include route setter showing the intended beta instead of just showing the 3d model of the route.
Would be very interesting, also would make all of us fans think any beta breaks are that much cooler.
Also would help for all the crappy sets that never got topped.
nah, definitely not before the competitors climb - esp. since this is information that could somehow be leaked to the athletes, even just by some spectators shouting it. After the climbing however, I agree.
The issue is that route setters have a lot of time to think about those problems. Athletes have to perform under pressure and fast. IFSC surely need guidelines for route setters, because the all jumping event simply is ridonkulous. And yes, some after event video with people topping would be nice.
Comp climbing has ventured so far from rock climbing that it's unrecognizable. There wasn't a single boulder that actually involved pulling hard. It was all running and jumping, or coordination.
The slab one was kinda old skool.. the rest sucked indeed..
Japanese style for sure. It's cool, though. Remember, it's a comp taking place in the great indoors.
Fun thing is that these athletes are actually very good rock climber !
why Tomoa in the thumbnail
Hannes absolutely goated
Bring back Streaming of the whole Competition.
We dont want a piece of the Cake.
We want the whole Bakery.
So glad Mejdi got it !
Using Tomoa's picture in the thumbnail but he is not in the final....
They are this good at IFSC...
BELGIUM SWEEP 2023 BABY
Woops matt progidy or prodigy? Hahaha good work commentating as always
Only 4 tops, every climber reaching at least zone on boulders 1, 2, 3, nobody reaching zone on 4, and everybody on the same score on boulder 3 and 4.
That is some truly awful routesetting.
New year, the same problem!! WHY THE FUC* DONT YOU GUYS RELEASE LIVE VIDEOS TO SOUTH AMERICA?? Especially Brazil…everytime that I want to watch a live stream, I have to use a VPN otherwise, I can only watch replays, and that sucks!!, do Better guys!! Realease live streams for everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!?
Hannes the goad
This has less and less to do with climbing. These are injury-prone circus events. The route setters think only of the spectators and not enough of the athletes.
It's not only dangerous and non-climbing, but also getting boring from viewer's point of view. Yeah, we get it route setters - you think jumping is cool. Move on and use your imagination ffs.
Eurosport is the reason we in Europe cannot watch via TH-cam anymore. IFSC sold out since the Olympics. What a disgrace.
"I WAS YOUNGER" ???? isnt he young anymore? hahaha
Noticeable difference between Men's & Women's tops ... the girls a happy smile; the guys an alpha male fist thrust.
Vive la difference ...
what a stupid comment...
Some of the worst setting I've seen in a boulder comp. This sport is getting so far away from rock climbing it's barely recognizable.
Why were there no Japanese climbers this time round?
What do u mean there are?
did not make finals...
@@krissroxxy kokoro and sorato are not japanese in finals?
There where 2 Japanese athletes, next time put on your glasses :P
Boulder 4 was a stupid design, not even a single zone was achieved. Looked near on impossible. Route setters topping is definitely coverage you need to add.
Garbage boulder, and pathetic how the announcers kept saying “oh he’s not figuring it out, oh he’s doing it wrong again”, as if there was a “right” way to do it. Clearly it was basically impossible, regardless of strength, height, technique, etc.
Medji did the boulder post-comp.......and the french team congratulated the setters on it
@@shmalts1 is there footage of this?
Theres physically no way the shortest japanese climber could have done that move
@@shmalts1 of course they would. Their guy won. Plus, if they change those boulders to those not favoring his strengths, they're screwed