i agree its insane how it did it but it wasnt static. he swung his body into position, latched the left and and rotated to right hand into a gaston positon all at once.
one of my favourite examples of how there's no ideal body type in climbing and every disadvantage comes with a hidden advantage (and vice versa). adam found it easy to reach between the holds where a shorter climber might have struggled, but was too lanky to get his centre of gravity in the right place to make the dyno work. his greater mass helps him generate the momentum needed for this type of move, but as soon as his momentum carried him past the middle hold it stopped being an advantage and started making it nearly impossible for him to hold the swing, so he was flying off to the left. but also, a smaller climber wouldnt have been able to span the gap between the two green holds. one of the reasons adam is such a great climber is that he very quickly recognises when one of the advantages he usually relies on is working against him, and is incredibly creative in figuring out how to turn it back around so its working for him again. his height and mass were making that dyno harder than it was (and it was already pretty hard!), but hes one of only a few people with the wingspan necessary to use both those holds at the same time, and he knows hes better at static moves. intelligent climbing is always more impressive than epic dynos.
@@connorvanvuuren6455 There are two advantages, you get to the ground faster after you get to the top and you are much more suitable to secure someone else.
@@connorvanvuuren6455 once you actually lose weight by climbing , your finger will be used to holding a heavy ass load but now you have a light load. Hangboard training made easy
There's two things I'm going to be annoyed with Olympic climbing. A) most of the problems are going to be dynos and crazy coordination moves that are all done fast and powerfully. B) when someone like Adam breaks that beta and does it statically people are going to think that they're the worse climber for it when the opposite is true
Both good points, I have a feeling at the actual Olympics (if it even ends up happening due to the virus) they're going to work really hard on keeping a good balance between everything. Honestly it's always going to be interesting to me what happens to the climbing meta in years to come and see how climbers adapt to it because clearly Adam has adapted to every type of climbing!
@@charlesfowler4308 I mean the furthest hold gets priority. I think if you have 2 people send a problem/route then who ever did it faster was the more efficient climber. Especially if they are consistently faster. I'm not a massive fan of it but what's another non subjective way of breaking that tie?
I was in Bercy that day and remember clearly having an intuition that this would have happened, the moment i saw the boulder... to see this intuition come true was truly special!!!
I always love the big, impressive dyno's and long reaches and jumps... but there is something so amazing and satisfying about seeing someone find a way to do a move where climbers would usually have to jump/dyno, with a static movement. Brains vs brawn in climbing is always fascinating. It really takes a mix of both, and it will never just be one or the other. Sometimes you will need more brain, sometimes you will just need the pure brawn, usually you will need a solid mix of both. It makes for such a dynamic and interesting sport.
I love your series, hope you do a lot more. I really enjoy the analysis of the beta break, finding what works for you is the best part of climbing, at least for me, because it never gets boring....
Reid Back i mean yea. There’s plenty of tall gym rat climbers who are beasts that could stick that one armed. You must be new to this. Ondra isn’t any kind of specialist in those moves
Great series man, your pacing is perfect and I love how you compare against other climbers. I also like how you explain the "paddling" or the "figure 4" before showing the move. It will help people that don't know climbing grasp what's so cool. Keep it up!
i'm french and after he said "did a beta break that left the commentators speechless" i just heard " Voillaaaaa !! ça c'etait pas bête !!" ( that wasn't stupid) which totally break the emotion in this achievment x)
It should be noted that height - or perhaps "reach" is the better term here - factors in to why Adam Ondra was able to static that move. If your arms and legs aren't long enough, you're never going to static that move no matter how much you'd like to.
TH-cam has been recommending these climbing videos to me, now I'm kinda excited to see what these athletes will do in the Olympics next year. It should be fun to watch. This is like seeing speed runners glitch the game.
@@Razagul319 Pretty much.. Dyno is just easier for short/small people because there is less mass to move.. Its really just simple physics, whereas Adam being long and lanky has advantages in other areas due to his height and length.
I just want to say this is an incredible video. I’ve been watching people with 5-10 million subs, Ryan Trahan, vox, etc. this video is so engaging and purely incredible I was stunned. You are a talented creator, keep it up.
Thanks Jami! It would be great to blow up, but honestly I truly just enjoy making this content and would still be putting out videos whether I got 10 views or 1 million! Hope you enjoy the future videos!
I'm not a climber at all but unlike a lot of sports like athletics Indonesia see the Olympics as the pinnacle of climbing. Just like it isn't the pinnacle of football, the world cup or champions's league is. The pinnacle of climbing, from my totally amateur TH-cam viewing point of view, is who can do the hardest routes out in the open. Like Adam doing the first 9c in the world.
Love your content mate! Storytelling, editing and general content of the vids is consistently high - always something new to learn from it and entertaining on itsway. Thank you!
1:25 manuel cornu and mikael mawem were both in Netflix's Ultimate Beastmaster, an obstacle course game show!!! thats how i got into learning about climbing in the first place. both of them did incredibly as do most of the climbers who go on the show. i never considered that they couldve known each other before the show but makes sense
@@AlbertOkay yeah but its going to get cancelled in a week of two. No way it is ethical possible to go for Olympics with Covid-19 still going (which it will)
Never climbed before but on a kick of watching climbers (more long form stuff and discussions, very fascinating) so I am not personally familiar with holds, how hard things are to do, or just how technical the climbs can be. Watching pros make it look easy online does help me either. That is all a wind up to saying that I am ashamed to say when at 3:41 when Adam makes his Gaston Hold move my first though was... so he just reach over and grabbed it? That isn't hard, the rest of the guys are jumping and hanging! The commentary and a bit of critical thinking made me realize that "the simple reach" required a lot of outside the box critical thinking of the route, deep knowledge of what Adam himself can do, and a ton athletic ablity to pull it off and keep moving through the course. Have all of the wild "jumping" moves really seems to hurt when you get to a technical aspect and it feels like most climbing is far more technical with bad hold, so the competitions should reflect that.
Adam is a rock climber primarily instead of a indoor boulder. The 2 disciplines have be one alot more separated in recent years. When was the last time you saw this type of dyno movement on real rock route... never!
"Considered to be the best" no no no! HE IS THE BEST. You might be able to argue that at an indoor gym he is not, but actual rock climbing, you know On actual rocks. There is no one in the world that can beat this man. To all of his haters SILENCE
I'm working towards getting better equipment in the future! My current setup is a 300$ refurbished laptop and a headset I got for free, but once my microphone comes in my audio will be much better!
yeah it's a tall persons beta as Adam Ondra is 1,90m. And if you're taller its not all easier but a lot of movies are harder because your focal point is further from the wall / handles too close. So beta looks different.
I'm a tree climber trimmer for power company, so this is fun to watch for me. What is the difference between static and dynamic moves? I sense it is all out jump vs. Hold to hold without losing contact?
@albert Ok which is the song you're using in these videos? I really like the chill of it and would have loved to listen to it when I bouldered a bit last Sunday :).
it has very little or maybe nothing in common with the Laché :D I am sad that routers are focusing on such a thing. I would like to see more climbing than as YOU said "parkour moves"
Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb (such as, "get your feet up").[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5] It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]
This was definitely a dynamic move. Static movements involve little to no momentum from one hold to the next. Since he used momentum he definitely dynamic
Love this series, man! Insane how Adam Ondra is able to do that move statically!
He's such a beast! Seriously on a different level!
Insane how the others were able to do those dynos.
Because of his reach. This channel, if I'm not mistaken, talks about another climber who uses his reach and height for advantage
i agree its insane how it did it but it wasnt static. he swung his body into position, latched the left and and rotated to right hand into a gaston positon all at once.
@@AntonAdelson so what ?😅
one of my favourite examples of how there's no ideal body type in climbing and every disadvantage comes with a hidden advantage (and vice versa). adam found it easy to reach between the holds where a shorter climber might have struggled, but was too lanky to get his centre of gravity in the right place to make the dyno work. his greater mass helps him generate the momentum needed for this type of move, but as soon as his momentum carried him past the middle hold it stopped being an advantage and started making it nearly impossible for him to hold the swing, so he was flying off to the left. but also, a smaller climber wouldnt have been able to span the gap between the two green holds. one of the reasons adam is such a great climber is that he very quickly recognises when one of the advantages he usually relies on is working against him, and is incredibly creative in figuring out how to turn it back around so its working for him again. his height and mass were making that dyno harder than it was (and it was already pretty hard!), but hes one of only a few people with the wingspan necessary to use both those holds at the same time, and he knows hes better at static moves. intelligent climbing is always more impressive than epic dynos.
Hmmm what is the hidden advantage in being an overweight climber?
@@connorvanvuuren6455 There are two advantages, you get to the ground faster after you get to the top and you are much more suitable to secure someone else.
@@lootic lol
@@connorvanvuuren6455 once you actually lose weight by climbing , your finger will be used to holding a heavy ass load but now you have a light load. Hangboard training made easy
Lose the weight. You always had that option.
And this was the first Olympics I was looking forward to :(
Olympics are still on schedule for 2020 in Tokyo! Unless you're referring to Adam being a beast at the Olympic games!
@@AlbertOkay Well, at the current rate of events I'd say forget about the olympics.
@@WyandWombat Yeah...I'm so sad about the potential that it could get cancelled. );
@@AlbertOkay August 2021 now.
😢
There's two things I'm going to be annoyed with Olympic climbing. A) most of the problems are going to be dynos and crazy coordination moves that are all done fast and powerfully. B) when someone like Adam breaks that beta and does it statically people are going to think that they're the worse climber for it when the opposite is true
Both good points, I have a feeling at the actual Olympics (if it even ends up happening due to the virus) they're going to work really hard on keeping a good balance between everything. Honestly it's always going to be interesting to me what happens to the climbing meta in years to come and see how climbers adapt to it because clearly Adam has adapted to every type of climbing!
you're not going to be annoyed for another 4 years at least
Don't forget speed being combined with bouldering and lead where imo it really doesn't belong
@@charlesfowler4308 I mean the furthest hold gets priority. I think if you have 2 people send a problem/route then who ever did it faster was the more efficient climber. Especially if they are consistently faster. I'm not a massive fan of it but what's another non subjective way of breaking that tie?
@@tarettime9392 Sorry I meant the discipline speed climbing rather than using time to time break, I'm fine with that
I was in Bercy that day and remember clearly having an intuition that this would have happened, the moment i saw the boulder... to see this intuition come true was truly special!!!
Heck yes! Man I'm sure you were so excited watching it in person. I wish I was watching it person because I'm sure I would have lost it.
I love the fact that you took the scene where tyler01 gets spanked with a paddle for not finishing his burger
LOL thanks for knowing the clip :)
@@AlbertOkay (:
I always love the big, impressive dyno's and long reaches and jumps... but there is something so amazing and satisfying about seeing someone find a way to do a move where climbers would usually have to jump/dyno, with a static movement. Brains vs brawn in climbing is always fascinating. It really takes a mix of both, and it will never just be one or the other. Sometimes you will need more brain, sometimes you will just need the pure brawn, usually you will need a solid mix of both. It makes for such a dynamic and interesting sport.
i always loved to watch puccio vs noguchi or hoyer vs mcoll
i always loved to watch puccio vs noguchi or hoyer vs mcoll
I love your series, hope you do a lot more. I really enjoy the analysis of the beta break, finding what works for you is the best part of climbing, at least for me, because it never gets boring....
Finding your own solution is such a beautiful part of climbing! I'm glad you enjoyed the series, more to come in the future!
I guess you could call this the tall people beta. Probably down right impossible to do for a lot of his shorter competitors.
the dyno is down-right impossible for someone of his height though. He has way too much momentum going away from the wall
Reid Back not true
@@Jsoccer1999 you're right, the guy that can climb v16, is one of the strongest climbers out there is just too weak for that move
Reid Back i mean yea. There’s plenty of tall gym rat climbers who are beasts that could stick that one armed. You must be new to this. Ondra isn’t any kind of specialist in those moves
Jack1999 not true
Great series man, your pacing is perfect and I love how you compare against other climbers. I also like how you explain the "paddling" or the "figure 4" before showing the move. It will help people that don't know climbing grasp what's so cool. Keep it up!
i'm french and after he said "did a beta break that left the commentators speechless" i just heard " Voillaaaaa !! ça c'etait pas bête !!" ( that wasn't stupid) which totally break the emotion in this achievment x)
Haha I don't speak french, but thanks for translating it's kind of funny
It should be noted that height - or perhaps "reach" is the better term here - factors in to why Adam Ondra was able to static that move. If your arms and legs aren't long enough, you're never going to static that move no matter how much you'd like to.
Reminds me of Jacques Kalis in cricket - a top quality player isn't always the most exciting to watch, but will be the most consistent.
your series is great! have you considered to feature alex megos with his insane leg-split resting positions on long routes?
100% Yes! I have plans to make a video dedicated on the splits used in climbing! Thanks for watching!
@@quax8923 I immediately pictured that drop knee split in my head when I read your comment. Megos has legendary flexibility
TH-cam has been recommending these climbing videos to me, now I'm kinda excited to see what these athletes will do in the Olympics next year. It should be fun to watch. This is like seeing speed runners glitch the game.
It's going to be an absolute spectacle to watch the olympics next year. I'm sure climbers are going to pull out some insane moves, I can't wait!
I love your style of video and pace of commentary. Just found and binged your collection. Looking forward to more. Thank you for the content
Thanks! Look out for new content in the future soon!
I haven't subscribed this quickly to a channel since ever, actually. Love this series that you're doing, and looking forward to your future works!
Thank you thankyou! I will most definitely be keeping this series up and releasing other content that hopefully you'll enjoy in the future!
he may have been the only one to do it statically because of his reach advantage
First thing I noticed was that he could eat of the heads of some of the other competitors
no doubt, but that's also what kept him from getting in a comfortable position to gain power in the start
@@joaoafonsomendonca9044 so these Dyno moves are just short people taking their revenge on taller guys?
But even you have the reach you must have the body tension to hold it. And this harder than to yump around.
@@Razagul319 Pretty much.. Dyno is just easier for short/small people because there is less mass to move.. Its really just simple physics, whereas Adam being long and lanky has advantages in other areas due to his height and length.
I just want to say this is an incredible video. I’ve been watching people with 5-10 million subs, Ryan Trahan, vox, etc. this video is so engaging and purely incredible I was stunned. You are a talented creator, keep it up.
I love bouldering with static moves. Just more elegant
Not even 500 Subscribers? I cant believe it. Your videos are amazing!
Thanks to you I'm passed 500 now! Thanks so much! :)
As a tall person doing this static seems not only easy, but seems like the proper technique
Love your content man! I feel like this channel is about to blow up! So strike while the iron is hot! We need more of these videos :)
Thanks Jami! It would be great to blow up, but honestly I truly just enjoy making this content and would still be putting out videos whether I got 10 views or 1 million! Hope you enjoy the future videos!
I'm not a climber at all but unlike a lot of sports like athletics Indonesia see the Olympics as the pinnacle of climbing. Just like it isn't the pinnacle of football, the world cup or champions's league is. The pinnacle of climbing, from my totally amateur TH-cam viewing point of view, is who can do the hardest routes out in the open. Like Adam doing the first 9c in the world.
Hi! I have nothing to do with climbing other that occasionally trying to climb up a rock for fun. But i’m still hooked on your video’s! Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching regardless if you climb or not! Means a lot to me!
Love your content mate! Storytelling, editing and general content of the vids is consistently high - always something new to learn from it and entertaining on itsway. Thank you!
Thanks for the support and comment. Keep crushing it!
I just watched every single video. So good!
Thanks Michael! I'll definitely be releasing more content like this in the future! :)
I have never done rock climbing in my life but for some reason it’s so interesting. Would love to try it.
Give it a shot!
Just found out about this awesome series, I love beta breaks, thanks for making it.
0:49 I like the tyler1 cameo
Hehe put it in there for the gamers
Keep this series going man! Awesome stuff
I will! Definitely have so many more to make and I'm excited to keep them coming!
Adam Ondra is so impressive! And I love your Beta Break Series, keep 'em coming! 💪
Thanks so much, I'll definitely be keeping this series coming and I hope you enjoy them!
1:25 manuel cornu and mikael mawem were both in Netflix's Ultimate Beastmaster, an obstacle course game show!!! thats how i got into learning about climbing in the first place. both of them did incredibly as do most of the climbers who go on the show. i never considered that they couldve known each other before the show but makes sense
Others: break the beta by dynoing every static
Him: breaking the beta by staticing a dyno
I just love how the rapporteurs were speechless
Again, a great video! This series is sick
Thanks Tomas! The support and positive comments means allot to me!
@@AlbertOkay yeah but its going to get cancelled in a week of two. No way it is ethical possible to go for Olympics with Covid-19 still going (which it will)
@@brakza Yeah - really sad that it's getting cancelled although the reasons are necessary. );
Seems I'm early to the hype your channel will inevitably receive, especially once climbing debuts in the Olympics
Super well put together dude, Awesome videos!
Thanks Tibby! Hopefully I'll be able to keep it up and keep bringing content like this!
Bro is an absolute beast
Back at it again, sweet video!
This was on my recommended
Keep up this series, it's great and really shows the effort these climbers put in albeit in a different way
*Correction* 3:25: a *gaston* is when ur *elbows* are pointing away from ur body, like when ur opening a bag of chips, Ondra did a sidepull
I like the aesthetic of static moves more personally.
You just earned a new subscriber. Excellent video!
Thanks! Working on new content right now!
He is also way taller than some of the others, smart to use it as an advantage
Loving these videos!! Great explanation, comparisons, editing - keep it up!
Thanks Laura! I'll definitely keep releasing videos like this in the future so stay tuned!
Just discovered this channel today, subscribed! Cool content 👌🏼
Please i want more from this series
Awesome beta break!
Seems like he just had a big enough wingspan to do it that way...
@Darren Harper why does it have to be an embarassment if you cant do something exactly the same way other people do...
Never climbed before but on a kick of watching climbers (more long form stuff and discussions, very fascinating) so I am not personally familiar with holds, how hard things are to do, or just how technical the climbs can be. Watching pros make it look easy online does help me either. That is all a wind up to saying that I am ashamed to say when at 3:41 when Adam makes his Gaston Hold move my first though was... so he just reach over and grabbed it? That isn't hard, the rest of the guys are jumping and hanging!
The commentary and a bit of critical thinking made me realize that "the simple reach" required a lot of outside the box critical thinking of the route, deep knowledge of what Adam himself can do, and a ton athletic ablity to pull it off and keep moving through the course. Have all of the wild "jumping" moves really seems to hurt when you get to a technical aspect and it feels like most climbing is far more technical with bad hold, so the competitions should reflect that.
bro your content is so good what the hell
Thans Jasper! I'll try and keep it up!
Thank you for these series! Amazing.
Come back Albert, i need more Beta Break videos!
I mean, when you have the wingspan of a pterodactyl...
I really miss those…
Waiting for the Collin Duffy episode. Amazing channel man we need more youtubers like you. YOURE GONNA GO SO FAR MAN KEEP UP THE GREAT CONTENT!!!
Oh man it's coming! I actually talked to him right after he won Pan-ams and he is just an insane climber with SO much potential! THANK YOU!!
Tall with great wingspan too. This is why most dynos now involve greater distance
I know fuck all about climbing and even I know that Ondra is a beast
Top notch climbing content
Even outside of a comp. All that matters is that you send
There should be a second world championship on dynamic climbing..
Dude what an intro with great music to bust
I’m always looking for the Dyno! 💪🏻🏴🧗🏻♂️
Me too, but sometimes going static is great too!
in before your channel explodes.. these videos are great.
Bless :)
Albert Ok I think you were about 900 subs when I commented.
@@JackboMack AY THANKS FOR BEING ONE OF THE EARLY SUBSCRIBERS
love this series keep it coming
Thanks allot! I'll keep them coming!
Adam is a rock climber primarily instead of a indoor boulder. The 2 disciplines have be one alot more separated in recent years. When was the last time you saw this type of dyno movement on real rock route... never!
Digging the content dude!
0:49 Tyler1 paddle beta break
Please make more episodes !
You deserve way more subscriber then you have
"Considered to be the best" no no no! HE IS THE BEST. You might be able to argue that at an indoor gym he is not, but actual rock climbing, you know On actual rocks. There is no one in the world that can beat this man. To all of his haters SILENCE
I like your videos! Please do a video about Janja!! There must be a lot to talk about her 👏
Heck yes! I have been already researching about her...I have so much to talk about her!
@@AlbertOkay maybe this could be a longer one 😉
@@JorgePacker Yes!
New to the channel. Loved the vid!
insane skills
🐱👤 Tomoa the gymnastics flyer and Adam the best... great stuff!
.
Such a great difference in styles. So great to watch!
You definitely need a subscription for your amazing work
Thank you Piero! I cherish every subscriber! Climb hard!
Very nice video thanks!
Great series you should be on your way to 1 million subs in no time with content like this... maybe look at other sports
This Adam dude is wicked cool 🌌
Love this stuff mang!
did you really just put a part of the tyler1xfaker visits heart attack grill in your video? love it haha
GOTCHU FAM
@@AlbertOkay ㅋㅋㅋ 개꿀잼
Really like the video, but your intro and outro volume relative to your voice was really loud! Something to watch out for. Keep on 🤙🏻
I'm working towards getting better equipment in the future! My current setup is a 300$ refurbished laptop and a headset I got for free, but once my microphone comes in my audio will be much better!
The quality is decent; it's just the levels that need adjusting, mate :)
@@ReegusReever Hopefully I fixed it on my next video that's coming out later today! Thanks for the feedback and what I need to improve on :)
@@AlbertOkay Nice one. Keep on keeping on, my g.
All the best for the channel
this like is for adam
Outro song? Also great video! The flow of it was well done.
Great video, that was an awesome beta break!
I'd say that it's still a dynamic move. He just made it into a much-better controlled deadpoint motion.
yeah it's a tall persons beta as Adam Ondra is 1,90m. And if you're taller its not all easier but a lot of movies are harder because your focal point is further from the wall / handles too close. So beta looks different.
I'm a tree climber trimmer for power company, so this is fun to watch for me. What is the difference between static and dynamic moves? I sense it is all out jump vs. Hold to hold without losing contact?
Yea exactly
@@dabossman5650thanks. ill try to bring the language out to my field then get it catching on lol.
Hahahah was that the Tyler1 and faker hang out video?
;)
I climbed with u at liposuction today then randomly got suggested ur vid
Much love from Czech :)
@albert Ok which is the song you're using in these videos? I really like the chill of it and would have loved to listen to it when I bouldered a bit last Sunday :).
Yoyo! I put the songs at the end screen of the video, on my phone now -otherwise I'd link it for you! :)
@@AlbertOkay Awesome, thanks - somehow I missed that :).
The song I meant is this one: th-cam.com/video/tFbwbJnS0p0/w-d-xo.html
it has very little or maybe nothing in common with the Laché :D I am sad that routers are focusing on such a thing. I would like to see more climbing than as YOU said "parkour moves"
Great series!!
I recognize that loltyler1 clip
;)
Breaking the META Breaking the METAAAAAAAAAAA
Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb (such as, "get your feet up").[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5]
It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]
Amazing, thx a lot👍👍👍👍
2:15 the moment adam shattered this mans hand
This was definitely a dynamic move. Static movements involve little to no momentum from one hold to the next. Since he used momentum he definitely dynamic