I thought I'd take this chance to say thanks, Robert. I have learned yet AGAIN from your videos. It was kind of you to get back to me a few years ago when I had a question about a twisted binding!
Good idea with drywall compound. I’ll try applying it on top of my cracked bridge . I always pick up some good helpful hints on your videos. Thank you.
Robert, you are yet again a life saver! I had all my drywall mud dyed already, and was about to start on my 20s Stromberg/Voisinet when I thought " I should maybe pop on to TH-cam and see what this is supposed to look like, and You were at the top of the page! Thanks so much!
@danbombliss No, the pore filler stays in. You need to do a couple of sessions. There are no compatability issues with the dry wall compound as a filler.
I thought I came up with something new when I thought of this Idea! Plaster and Drywall compound is so comparatively cheap and easy easy to work with, I use it instead of caulking and silicone even on outdoor applications with wood. It soaks up paint like a sponge and becomes totally waterproof and somewhat flexible after painting. I doubt vou even need to color it as it is so porous you could squeegee some color over it after sanding and not even bother the color of the surrounding wood. Really like the video! Thanks!
A pleasure and Thanks! a Rarity to see a man that has your talents not sponsoring expensive Inks and Dyes or paints and grain Fillers! A refreshing bit of sunshine in a world of Constant Bullshit! almost got me cosidering a Peat Guitar with an Irish Thatch Roof! LOL
@jinfuuu You could do that. Obviously you prefer the closed pore look. Give it a good sanding before the pore filling, The lightly sand again after the pore fill. Then go over it with your wipe on poly. Good luck.
@cowdudeable The Transtint brand is concentrated and a little bit goes a very long way! The quart size was less concentrated and I got it at a finishing supply warehouse. Black later paint would also work but you would probably need more of it to get a true black. Don't forget to do test pieces first!
There are many ways and products available for pore filling. This is just one way. One of the advantages of water based over oil based is the dry time. I can pore fill with this method and begin applying my topcoats of finish in a matter of just a few hours. I use egg whites for sizing my spruce or cedar tops. I don't have a video on this yet but it is on the list.
@biggestclaptonfan Occasionally the white purfling line will get a bit dingy but just sand or scrape it and it is clean again. Yes, dark brown with work fine on mahogany.
Now that you showed this I was just using TIMBERMATE on a telecaster to fill some inperfections in the joint and that stuff acts just like the drywall compound I was using on my wall last week! of course 8oz of TIMBERMATE was like 8 bucks US and I can get that large DAP drywall stuff you used for just a little more !! and the drywall stuff not as smelly. Thanks.
@kmh196700 An ounce of prevention goes along way here. The best thing is to not have dings but when it does happen you have to fill it. A fill is always a fill although you can develop this skill over time and make it pretty invisible. LMI has some fillers that match top colors fairly closely.
Tom, nice last name! haha I use universal tints, name brand Transtint. The dyeing the pore filler is a trick I actually learned from a piano finishing guy.
Robbie, Have you ever tried Crawford's Spackling Paste for a pore filler? Having painted for 40 years, I don't like to sand too much either! It's been a staple for painter's for some time. Crawford's dries quick, sands fairly easy, doesn't shrink (like joint cmpd) & is very durable. It's also non-mercurial. In fact, you can almost sand it w/ your hand. I'm not sure how the tint would impact it, but I would think it would be moot!
It doesn't color the wood as you sand it back and only leave it in the pores. You could lightly seal the surface first with shellac to help it sand off easier though.
I hope you are using that Everclear as a solvent for shellac & not as a beverage! In other parts of the USA the stuff goes by the name "Golden Grain", 190 proof rotgut. Trichloroethane used to work well with lac too. It is 1-1-1 ether, and was banned by the EPA maybe 20 years ago. I sure do miss it though! That stuff would dissolve lacquers, & made a great cleaner & solvent all the way around.
I have never tried the brand name you referred to. The basic ingredients for water based pore fillers and drywall compounds/spackles are the same. It should work just fine but do some testing on some scrap.
Egg whites are the binding agent. Folks apply that and then sand until a slurry is created. The solid is then held in the pores by the binding agent, the egg whites. I prefer to use pre-made sawdust and shellac. Egg whites are used for sizing or prepping the wood. Think starching a shirt.
Interesting but that looks like more work and sanding then I do with an oil based pore filler. At least when I learned how to do properly. But there's nothing wrong with more options. Thanks for sharing. Who knows maybe I'll give it try if I run out of the oil base filler. You have anything on using egg whites?
@OBrienGuitars So if you were going to be spraying a Lacquer finish over this pore filler, do you immediately seal it with a Vinyl sealer right over top before continuing with the lacquer? Thanks
@OBrienGuitars , considering you are a professional luthier, this may be an unnecessary question, but learning the guitar tech trade, myself, I must ask: how does the demonstrated application affect the resonance of the wood, especially consider that the characteristic of the wood is being altered? Thanks. I enjoy watching your videos.
How do you keep maple bindings from being stained by rosewood resins siring body sanding? And of course, during pore filling? Once you sand through the lacquer layer, won't the pore filler dust start staining the maple? Thanks
Do you run into issues with the pore filler pulling out? What kind of binder does the dry wall compound have that that doesn't conflict with a Lacquer finish, but keeps it in the pores? Kind of a vague question I suppose, but I didn't hear anything about compatibility. I've been using a Mohawk pore filling product that takes 24 hours to dry/cure to then sand. I'm looking to save time, but don't want to risk pore filler pulling out under my Lacquer. -Thanks, Dan
@kmh196700 Yes, you can brush, spray or pad shellac and get good results if done properly. KTM9 is a nice water base finish that when don eproperly will compare to a high gloss lacquer finish. May I suggest my finishing DVD? It will answer many of your questions and show you how to apply many types of finishes. It is available at LMI or apprenticepublishing . com
Hi there, this is two questions, have you ever had a problem with the black pore filler staining the white purfling lines once yoo have sealed them with the lacquer and thinner mix? also could I use a dark brown grain filler to stain/fill a light coloured and pourus mahogany neck? Thank, Paul
Thanks for the great video! How can I clean the sanding residue when using oil based grain filler? Can I use Naphtha before applying nitrocellulose top coat? Cause I heard that lacquer and oil doesn't work well together
I'm going to try this on my next uke. In the past I've just used layers of clearcoat built on a shellac sanding sealer to get a smooth finish. I wet sand between each layer to build the depth of fhe pores and come to a level surface, but it takes about 15 coats to get the results. This would appear to be an excellent time saver. My question is whether or not there is an overall tonal effect as this method would seem to be adding a rigid crystalline structure throughout a flexible soundboard. Hear me, I'm not knocking it, I'm just curious. Does this method brighten up the tone at all, immediately or over time?
Very cool. I'm amused at the statement suggesting that DAP is goop, while a more traditional method of rottenstone and pumice would be better. It's all mineral content. Last I remember, PoreOPac filler was basically what you use anyhow. Thank you again for this tip. I'm excited to try it.
i know that people often use shellac to seal their guitars. french polish method where alcohol and pumice/rottenstone are used to pore fill. 4f pumice or rottenstone? also i do topcaots of behlens violin varnish and behkol solvent is used to thin it. Will this work on the shellac alone, as well?
I am still curious about the Transtint pore filler dye. As I see on line that it coats $19 for 2 oz(!) where did you buy it by the quart? Would black latex paint work as a drywall joint compound stain?
Yes, Sometimes air can become trapped in the pore. I believe that using a credit card as. Spreader and really mashing the product into the pores can help.
why not finish the wood with say 1000grit sandpaper and then clearcote? what would happen if u didn't pore fill or sand it and just clear coat it right away?
+Laz N No matter how fine a grit of sand paper that you use, you will ALWAYS have open pores on porous woods. Ever wonder why mandolin/violin luthiers use maple for their back and sides ? Almost zero open pores.
Gloss finish with dips for the pores would occur. As joshua said, you can continuously level the clear coat until the dips are gone, but it takes a very long time, even with a high-build finish. It's sort of like attempting to avoid learning to french polish by just applying coat after coat of shellac. You can do it, but it takes a very long time, and just following the french polish process is faster.
Just curious - if not for pore filling, what did you use the egg whites for? I have seen egg whites used by a number of people for pore filling now and am planing to give it a go on my next guitar. Tested it on rosewood scraps and the results were much cleaner than with commercial products like timbermate.
He uses it as a sealer, however old Italian violin makers used egg white and gypsum (the stuff in drywall mud) for a pore filler. You could use another binder such as prepared artist's casein, or acrylic. There are products made for artists, basically for making sculpted painitngs that could also be used.
I'm sorry, I'm skeptical. The product, after all, is cementitious and absorbs moisture. It's also not designed to bond to wood. My carpentry/construction perspective obviously affects my opinion I guess. Also, if you aren't using stain the white is an issue.
Thanks for sharing these tricks. I'm always amazed at the idiotic comments made by some people on youtube. I guarantee those making them are very uncreative, small minded people. I own a custom cabinet and furniture shop, those who work with wood 12 hours a day know there are so many tricks. Different budgets and jobs require different approaches. Only a fool would discard a free silver nugget (because it isnt gold).. for instance i might fill an open knot with tinted bondo, then paint small radius lines mimicking nature. 5 minute solution. Open knots on a knotty job bother me. An expert wouldn't know the difference, and I'm not wasting a valuable resource. I can hear it now " car bondo on wood, who'd want that?"
The only time one might need rto do pore filling is on the tops of fine furniture or musical Instrument. In all reality most everything made of wood in homes is NOT pore filled. Scratch your nail across some of it and you will see, and in my opinion, that is the part of the beauty of wood. GRAINS.
Can't see how this would have anything other than minimal/negligible aesthetic benefits (& only maybe, if you'd bought low grade Tonewoods), with massive negative affects tonally. If I invest in great quality tonewood, there is zero chance of me putting this gloop anywhere near it! This goes against anything I've learned in lutherie..I say put the time in with your sanding, & invest is excellent woods every time.
+Mike Calvert Your comments do not address the issue I am addressing in the video and that is filling the pores. Porous tonewoods will always need to be leveled to get a flat surface for finishing regardless of how much they cost.
Sanding or premium cuts of wood have NOTHING to do with filling the grain/pores. Certain species have more open grain than others and for professional finished results it is and has LONG been SOP to fill. Many different grain fillers can be used. You need to check yourself before sounding off in such an ignorant manner.
Darren Hippner I'm abundantly certain I would not buy an acoustic guitar from someone who filled wood pores with clay! Of course, I wouldn't want a guitar with a rosette made out of rocks (abalone...) either, and it's very popular.
+stubhead I've seen a lot of "traditional" guitar makers use pumice and rottenstone in the pore filling process. Pumice is...porous volcanic rock and Rottenstone is.... siliceous limestone. Clay is weathered rock... and finally abalone is NOT rock. From talking to many other luthiers and reading a lot of luthiery forums, it appears that most guitar builders are now using cyanoacrylate as a pore filler, yes Super Glue!! So... to each his own.
I thought I'd take this chance to say thanks, Robert. I have learned yet AGAIN from your videos. It was kind of you to get back to me a few years ago when I had a question about a twisted binding!
Thanks for watching. I am glad you are finding my videos useful.
Good idea with drywall compound. I’ll try applying it on top of my cracked bridge . I always pick up some good helpful hints on your videos. Thank you.
Robert, you are yet again a life saver! I had all my drywall mud dyed already, and was about to start on my 20s Stromberg/Voisinet when I thought " I should maybe pop on to TH-cam and see what this is supposed to look like, and You were at the top of the page! Thanks so much!
Glad to hear that the video is helping! Happy Building!
@danbombliss No, the pore filler stays in. You need to do a couple of sessions. There are no compatability issues with the dry wall compound as a filler.
I thought I came up with something new when I thought of this Idea! Plaster and Drywall compound is so comparatively cheap and easy easy to work with, I use it instead of caulking and silicone even on outdoor applications with wood. It soaks up paint like a sponge and becomes totally waterproof and somewhat flexible after painting. I doubt vou even need to color it as it is so porous you could squeegee some color over it after sanding and not even bother the color of the surrounding wood. Really like the video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed the video.
A pleasure and Thanks! a Rarity to see a man that has your talents not sponsoring expensive Inks and Dyes or paints and grain Fillers! A refreshing bit of sunshine in a world of Constant Bullshit! almost got me cosidering a Peat Guitar with an Irish Thatch Roof! LOL
@ht448 Yes this would work. Even bondo would work since you are going to paint it white.
@themurkar Thanks, I would probably use shellac and sawdust or a clear pore filler on spalted maple.
I have used sawdust and shellac and also epoxy on lighter colored woods.
@danbombliss You can use a sealer if you want to and I usually do when using lacquer.
@jinfuuu You could do that. Obviously you prefer the closed pore look. Give it a good sanding before the pore filling, The lightly sand again after the pore fill. Then go over it with your wipe on poly. Good luck.
@cowdudeable The Transtint brand is concentrated and a little bit goes a very long way! The quart size was less concentrated and I got it at a finishing supply warehouse. Black later paint would also work but you would probably need more of it to get a true black. Don't forget to do test pieces first!
There are many ways and products available for pore filling. This is just one way. One of the advantages of water based over oil based is the dry time. I can pore fill with this method and begin applying my topcoats of finish in a matter of just a few hours.
I use egg whites for sizing my spruce or cedar tops. I don't have a video on this yet but it is on the list.
@biggestclaptonfan Occasionally the white purfling line will get a bit dingy but just sand or scrape it and it is clean again. Yes, dark brown with work fine on mahogany.
So helpful! Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching. Glad you found it useful.
Now that you showed this I was just using TIMBERMATE on a telecaster to fill some inperfections in the joint and that stuff acts just like the drywall compound I was using on my wall last week! of course 8oz of TIMBERMATE was like 8 bucks US and I can get that large DAP drywall stuff you used for just a little more !! and the drywall stuff not as smelly. Thanks.
Any dye that dissolves in water will work. I use Transtint dyes available from LMI
@kmh196700 An ounce of prevention goes along way here. The best thing is to not have dings but when it does happen you have to fill it. A fill is always a fill although you can develop this skill over time and make it pretty invisible. LMI has some fillers that match top colors fairly closely.
Tom, nice last name! haha I use universal tints, name brand Transtint. The dyeing the pore filler is a trick I actually learned from a piano finishing guy.
I am using a universal tint. This is a dye that is compatible with alcohol, solvent or water based products.
Robbie, Have you ever tried Crawford's Spackling Paste for a pore filler? Having painted for 40 years, I don't like to sand too much either! It's been a staple for painter's for some time. Crawford's dries quick, sands fairly easy, doesn't shrink (like joint cmpd) & is very durable. It's also non-mercurial. In fact, you can almost sand it w/ your hand. I'm not sure how the tint would impact it, but I would think it would be moot!
It doesn't color the wood as you sand it back and only leave it in the pores. You could lightly seal the surface first with shellac to help it sand off easier though.
could you use water based dye over this or would it pull the filler out?
I hope you are using that Everclear as a solvent for shellac & not as a beverage! In other parts of the USA the stuff goes by the name "Golden Grain", 190 proof rotgut. Trichloroethane used to work well with lac too. It is 1-1-1 ether, and was banned by the EPA maybe 20 years ago. I sure do miss it though! That stuff would dissolve lacquers, & made a great cleaner & solvent all the way around.
I have never tried the brand name you referred to. The basic ingredients for water based pore fillers and drywall compounds/spackles are the same. It should work just fine but do some testing on some scrap.
Was wondering if the black dye colors the underlying rosewood or if you sealed the wood prior to pore filling?
Egg whites are the binding agent. Folks apply that and then sand until a slurry is created. The solid is then held in the pores by the binding agent, the egg whites. I prefer to use pre-made sawdust and shellac.
Egg whites are used for sizing or prepping the wood. Think starching a shirt.
Interesting but that looks like more work and sanding then I do with an oil based pore filler. At least when I learned how to do properly. But there's nothing wrong with more options. Thanks for sharing. Who knows maybe I'll give it try if I run out of the oil base filler. You have anything on using egg whites?
@OBrienGuitars So if you were going to be spraying a Lacquer finish over this pore filler, do you immediately seal it with a Vinyl sealer right over top before continuing with the lacquer?
Thanks
@sirgreggins8824 I am not sure what is in their violin varnish solvent. I would use alcohol.
@OBrienGuitars blonde shellac flakes, gum mastic and gum sandarac resins. will rottenstone work as well as pumice for this process
@OBrienGuitars , considering you are a professional luthier, this may be an unnecessary question, but learning the guitar tech trade, myself, I must ask: how does the demonstrated application affect the resonance of the wood, especially consider that the characteristic of the wood is being altered?
Thanks. I enjoy watching your videos.
My ear can't hear the difference. Thanks for watching my videos.
So what should I use for a light coloured would( ciprés y cedro)? I'd prefer it to be transparant as posible.
Thanx.
I just wipe the surface with a rag or use some compressed air.
Robbie,
Once you've finish sanding do you clean the surface with anything?
Larry
@kmh196700 Sitka spruce is a non porous wood so I don't fill it.
How do you keep maple bindings from being stained by rosewood resins siring body sanding? And of course, during pore filling? Once you sand through the lacquer layer, won't the pore filler dust start staining the maple? Thanks
I like the dust to get into the flamed bindings. It helps pop the grain.
Do you run into issues with the pore filler pulling out? What kind of binder does the dry wall compound have that that doesn't conflict with a Lacquer finish, but keeps it in the pores? Kind of a vague question I suppose, but I didn't hear anything about compatibility. I've been using a Mohawk pore filling product that takes 24 hours to dry/cure to then sand. I'm looking to save time, but don't want to risk pore filler pulling out under my Lacquer.
-Thanks,
Dan
@kmh196700 Yes, you can brush, spray or pad shellac and get good results if done properly. KTM9 is a nice water base finish that when don eproperly will compare to a high gloss lacquer finish. May I suggest my finishing DVD? It will answer many of your questions and show you how to apply many types of finishes. It is available at LMI or apprenticepublishing . com
Hi, what type of dye did you use? I'm getting ready for my first build, and this method looks promising, and cheap!!!
I used a water based black dye. Your local paint store has it.
Awesome.Thanks for the tip.what kind of black dye did you use ? could black water based flat paint be mixed in ?
yes, you can use paint however you will probably need more of it than a concentrated dye like I used.
Joe Dov I used cheap acrylic paint, it worked, but dry wall compound is white so it really lightens up
Joe Dov if I were to do it again (which I will) I will use the dye instead
Hi there, this is two questions, have you ever had a problem with the black pore filler staining the white purfling lines once yoo have sealed them with the lacquer and thinner mix? also could I use a dark brown grain filler to stain/fill a light coloured and pourus mahogany neck?
Thank, Paul
Thanks for the great video!
How can I clean the sanding residue when using oil based grain filler?
Can I use Naphtha before applying nitrocellulose top coat? Cause I heard that lacquer and oil doesn't work well together
Yes, you can wipe it down with naptha to clean it. A lot of lacquer finishes have oil based fillers under them.
@@OBrienGuitars Naphtha won't dissolve the oil based filler?
Just make sure that the filler is completely dry?
@@Matan2222222 Yes, that is correct.
I'm going to try this on my next uke. In the past I've just used layers of clearcoat built on a shellac sanding sealer to get a smooth finish. I wet sand between each layer to build the depth of fhe pores and come to a level surface, but it takes about 15 coats to get the results. This would appear to be an excellent time saver. My question is whether or not there is an overall tonal effect as this method would seem to be adding a rigid crystalline structure throughout a flexible soundboard. Hear me, I'm not knocking it, I'm just curious. Does this method brighten up the tone at all, immediately or over time?
+Jack Larwa I can't hear a tonal difference. It all gets sanded off the instrument after application and only a small amount fills the pores.
Very cool. I'm amused at the statement suggesting that DAP is goop, while a more traditional method of rottenstone and pumice would be better. It's all mineral content. Last I remember, PoreOPac filler was basically what you use anyhow. Thank you again for this tip. I'm excited to try it.
+Jack Larwa Exactly. Good luck and happy building!
i know that people often use shellac to seal their guitars. french polish method where alcohol and pumice/rottenstone are used to pore fill. 4f pumice or rottenstone? also i do topcaots of behlens violin varnish and behkol solvent is used to thin it. Will this work on the shellac alone, as well?
Where can I get the dye, or what brand of dye is advised?
I am still curious about the Transtint pore filler dye. As I see on line that it coats $19 for 2 oz(!) where did you buy it by the quart? Would black latex paint work as a drywall joint compound stain?
Hi Robert I saw your DVD (Guitar finishing) and I have question about the top. Do i need to pore fill on the top or only use shellac for seal the top?
No pore filler required on the soundboard. Generally those are closed pore woods.
if one day you make a bajo quinto I be the fist one to buy it O'Brien.. Bajo quinto has a huge demand on spanish bands
+Benedito Ortega thanks, but as of right now I have no plans to make one. If I ever do I will contact you first.
+OBrienGuitars thank you I be waiting
is there any benefit/drawback to using a spatulate or card to really force the filler into the pores? or is this just personal preference?
Yes, Sometimes air can become trapped in the pore. I believe that using a credit card as. Spreader and really mashing the product into the pores can help.
OBrienGuitars that is really helpful, thank you for taking the time to reply
why not finish the wood with say 1000grit sandpaper and then clearcote?
what would happen if u didn't pore fill or sand it and just clear coat it right away?
Technically, you could get a great finish with a wet sand too, it's just a lot more work and water around guitars is generally an issue.
+Laz N No matter how fine a grit of sand paper that you use, you will ALWAYS have open pores on porous woods. Ever wonder why mandolin/violin luthiers use maple for their back and sides ? Almost zero open pores.
Gloss finish with dips for the pores would occur. As joshua said, you can continuously level the clear coat until the dips are gone, but it takes a very long time, even with a high-build finish.
It's sort of like attempting to avoid learning to french polish by just applying coat after coat of shellac. You can do it, but it takes a very long time, and just following the french polish process is faster.
do i need to dye it if im not gona paint it a transparent color?
Que pintura se usa para hacer el color negro amigo ? Es pintura especial ????
I use a dye available at LMI. www.lmii.com/products/finishing/dyes/transtint-dyes
OBrienGuitars thanks brother eres el mejor en esto!!!!!!👌
What were you wiping it with at the end, at 5:50+. Was that just a cleanup wipe?
100amplifiers First coat of a shellac French polish, I imagine.
I wiped it with naptha to clean up the surface and then started wiping on shellac.
Yes, but not for pore filling.
do you mean if someone wants to make it transparent? if not then why?
@sirgreggins8824 I am unfamiliar with this process.
What grit did you sand the body to before applying the compound
I sanded to 320.
If you are going over the top with a solid color then you do not need to dye it.
Olá,do que e feito
O pore filimghes
Qual o material a ser aplicado
Obrigado só exposto
neste video estou usando massa fina de parede
Just curious - if not for pore filling, what did you use the egg whites for? I have seen egg whites used by a number of people for pore filling now and am planing to give it a go on my next guitar. Tested it on rosewood scraps and the results were much cleaner than with commercial products like timbermate.
He uses it as a sealer, however old Italian violin makers used egg white and gypsum (the stuff in drywall mud) for a pore filler. You could use another binder such as prepared artist's casein, or acrylic. There are products made for artists, basically for making sculpted painitngs that could also be used.
....and always apply three coats to the drywall screws.
i didnt add any dye. I'm painting a solid basecoat .
I'm sorry, I'm skeptical. The product, after all, is cementitious and absorbs moisture. It's also not designed to bond to wood. My carpentry/construction perspective obviously affects my opinion I guess. Also, if you aren't using stain the white is an issue.
+John Drew Petersen Give it a try and then let's us know your opinion.
How does this effect the tone and sustain of the instrument?
I can't hear a difference.
Will spackle work the same way as drywall compound for pore filling?
I guess so if it will spread easily. Normally drywall compound is watered down compared to spackle
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for the reply. So maybe watering down the spackle so it will spread easily would be a good idea if it is used as pore filling.
@@massmanute Try it on some scrap before going to your instrument. If it works then move forward.
I learned it from an old Steinway piano repair guy.
alcuni tuoi lavori non sono nelle mie corde ma devo dire che mi piacciono barvo
You know what they say, putty and paint make a luthier what he ain’t! Hahahahaha. JK
Thanks for sharing these tricks. I'm always amazed at the idiotic comments made by some people on youtube. I guarantee those making them are very uncreative, small minded people. I own a custom cabinet and furniture shop, those who work with wood 12 hours a day know there are so many tricks. Different budgets and jobs require different approaches. Only a fool would discard a free silver nugget (because it isnt gold).. for instance i might fill an open knot with tinted bondo, then paint small radius lines mimicking nature. 5 minute solution. Open knots on a knotty job bother me. An expert wouldn't know the difference, and I'm not wasting a valuable resource. I can hear it now " car bondo on wood, who'd want that?"
Dirk DIGGLER Thanks for the compliment Dirk and happy building!
The only time one might need rto do pore filling is on the tops of fine furniture or musical Instrument. In all reality most everything made of wood in homes is NOT pore filled. Scratch your nail across some of it and you will see, and in my opinion, that is the part of the beauty of wood. GRAINS.
have fun putting a lacquer finish on your instrument without filling the pores
Can't see how this would have anything other than minimal/negligible aesthetic benefits (& only maybe, if you'd bought low grade Tonewoods), with massive negative affects tonally. If I invest in great quality tonewood, there is zero chance of me putting this gloop anywhere near it! This goes against anything I've learned in lutherie..I say put the time in with your sanding, & invest is excellent woods every time.
+Mike Calvert Your comments do not address the issue I am addressing in the video and that is filling the pores. Porous tonewoods will always need to be leveled to get a flat surface for finishing regardless of how much they cost.
Sanding or premium cuts of wood have NOTHING to do with filling the grain/pores. Certain species have more open grain than others and for professional finished results it is and has LONG been SOP to fill. Many different grain fillers can be used. You need to check yourself before sounding off in such an ignorant manner.
Point taken..I wasn't meaning to 'sound off'..but a bit of ignorance in there for sure, in terms of knowledge & understanding..my apologies
LOL only an amateur would use this method.... stick with pumice and rottenstone and be authentic to the art of frenching
Darren Hippner I'm abundantly certain I would not buy an acoustic guitar from someone who filled wood pores with clay! Of course, I wouldn't want a guitar with a rosette made out of rocks (abalone...) either, and it's very popular.
+stubhead I've seen a lot of "traditional" guitar makers use pumice and rottenstone in the pore filling process. Pumice is...porous volcanic rock and Rottenstone is.... siliceous limestone. Clay is weathered rock... and finally abalone is NOT rock. From talking to many other luthiers and reading a lot of luthiery forums, it appears that most guitar builders are now using cyanoacrylate as a pore filler, yes Super Glue!! So... to each his own.
@MrCptGonzo I am not familiar with this product. Basically any pore filler will work if you learn to work with it.
Good luck.