I know im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can give me!
Chris is by far the best and most informative luthier on TH-cam. Not only does he show you what he's doing, he goes the extra mile to explain, and these videos save builders from mistakes and setbacks. And they're great videos for anyone wanting to get started building and repairing guitars.
I had the exact problem you described happen to me when restoring an old bass drum. I used a water based grain filler that dried super quick and after multiple coats of clear the finish was flawless. After about 3 months grain lines started to appear and being a high gloss black it was quite noticable. Since then I've been using a 2K polyurethane basecoat to fill the grain just by laying down a super thick coat and then level sanding it. Not particularly cost efficient but it does work well. However I heard even catalysed finishes tend to shrink just a tiny bit over time.
This is the exact video I needed exactly when I needed it. Next project I'm using this. I already went to the solarez site and put it in my cart. I used timbermate on a mahogany body on my current build and after 3 applications theres still spots that i can see the grain. I dont mond doing multiple coats but it would be great not having to wait to long for it to dry. Plus it smells God aweful. I wish I'd seen this sooner.....my girlfriend will never have to worry about my shrinkage problems again!!!
I've used something called micro-balloons doing body and fender work and the product I've used is micro-size hollow glass balloons. It has the consistency of flour. Maybe its the same thing used here? So when sanding you have to be extra careful to not breath the glass dust.
I ordered some of this stuff directly from Solarez to fill a roasted swamp ash body - at least it was supposed to be this stuff... I ordered the small 4 oz size, and shook it up vigorously for a minute or so, but when I poured it out it was not white, and was not thick like pancake batter. It came with an extra cap that has a nozzle, so that’s what I used. I tried the “rub it in with fingers and scrape off with a card” method, and while that may work great for a flat piece of wood, not so much on a Strat body with the contours. I didn’t notice that there were a few drips on the sides and back and they were a major pain in the butt to level. I’m going to try the “wipe on with a coffee filter” method for the next coat and hope for better results.
Other way I do it, I preraised the grain of the wood by spraying water once dry I sanded with what ever grit sand paper you finished the wood, then I sealed the wood with shellac (2 coats, sand with 400 grit between coats) then apply the wood grain filler if your choice with out worrying about shrinkage , then seal it with shellac again then finish with the clear coat of your choice
I loved your opening statement ".. how come they don't work .. " LOL - Which is "true" in so many variations ... Loved your video, I have learnt quite a few things from watching them and applying the principles on my model airplane finishes ...
How is it I never came across this channel before?? This is good stuff here! Guy reminds me of my 8th grade shop teacher! I loved my 8th grade shop teacher! I’m going to be binge watching this guy all week!
How about a list of the kind of woods that would and would not need this grain filler. It would be helpful to know. Thank you once again for your time and effort to educate myself and others.
Maybe the companies that make grain filler have such a list. I follow the simple rule; if you can feel the grain and pores and you don’t want to feel the grain and pores, you’re going to need a grain and pore filler. It’s not a species related decision. It’s a decision based on a specific board and it’s characteristics.
I'm transforming the cabinets in my new home. They were that old school early 2000s golden oak. I know that grain is pretty hard to hide. I just want them to be a nice smooth white. I've seen all kinds of opinions and options to do this, but ultimately this is probably one of the more informative videos. I'm hoping this stuff will fill in that wood grain and allow me to throw some paint over the top. I was considering using some of the spray paint from my job, it's a white sandable filler primer. I figured if I sanded it and then hit it with that, then sanded it again and put some paint over the top it should do the trick. But if I incorporate this product, I'm thinking I will get a better result
Hey Mr.Nuna916, over the last couple of weeks I have refinished oak cabinets just as you describe, also in white. Believe it or not, the grain filler I used was good old fashioned drywall compound mixed with a little water - to a almost molasses viscosity. Brush it on, let it dry, and lightly sand so as not to gouge out what I filled. It has worked absolutely perfectly for me. Just throwing it out there as an inexpensive, and effective, option.
@@AA-dx9ky hey I appreciate the response, and you know I've actually heard about this before. There was an older gentleman on TH-cam that was describing the same thing and he had mixed it to about a pancake batter viscosity. I actually just finished sanding everything, even though I'm using Beyond paint. I decided it would be better to sand and Prime anyway. Maybe this will alleviate the chipping issue. I'm honestly hesitant to do what you did because of the amount of work and detail it would take LOL it was a pain sanding all these things. I'm going to see how sanding and priming before Beyond paint works. If I like the single drawer that I do, I'll leave it as is, if not I think I'm going to have to go your route
Finally, a good product that can be purchased in the UK without paying double the price or jumping through import hoops and paying enough postage that you'd think it was going to be delivered on a pallet. I was originally considering coating the swamp ash with low viscosity CA glue.
Thanks for your video. It's the most informative guitar wood working vid I've watched this year. Im a fly tyer as well as a guitar player. Solarez makes UV resin for flies as well. Funny close too 🤣
When working with super open pore dark mahogany acoustic necks, I have yet to find a single product that fills the gaping pours while still providing transparency. Even Stewmac grain fillers do not do this. If you have porous wood, the only real option is to keep slathering on clear finish of some kind until you get level. This is very time consuming and a pain in the butt. If you fill the pores with mahogany colored filler, it will ruin the appearance of the grain. You will be looking at the filler, not the grain. If you use "clear" fillers like Aquacoat grain filler on really dark wood, it will "ghost" the appearance when you put on lacquer leaving a whitish haze. The only consistent way to apply stain is also before any filler is used. Otherwise you are staining filler. Next time you look at a Martin neck from the 70s or 80s, think about how much work it was to get beautiful clear grain leveled lacquer. I've also never found any water base products that work as well as oil based. Add to all this the fact that every peice of wood is going to react differently to filler and finish, and you have a lot of work in front of you.
Love the ending! Perfect! I also just want to thank you for your videos. I am slowly getting in to building guitars with the end goal of making custom guitars. Your videos have been a great resource for me. Thank you!
Thanks for the tip! I'm not a big fan of the patina craze unless it's brought about through the natural course of time. But I do like a very smooth, very glossy finish.
Hi I need some advice on grain filler for my snooker cue which is made of Ash wood. Over time grains gets open and can be felt during playing. Is there any filler which is easily applied and then smooth out with 0000 wool. I don’t wanna use sand paper on cue., I have seen clear gel based grain filler ( by AQUA coat) but they are available only in USA. Plzz advise me how to refill the grains on my ash cue? And then smooth with steel wool etc. Thanks. Regards.
Have you tried epoxy? I know the guys who make high end fishing rods usually use 2 part epoxy which seems like a similar application. Epoxy dries quick and has really minimal shrinking.
Hey Chris.... thanks for this tip. These new products from Solarez look great and I’d really like to give them a try.... but finding a supplier in Europe of the ‘can’t believe it’s not lacquer’ materials is really difficult. If you have contacts at the company, it would be great if you could encourage them to find a reliable Europe-based distributor..... I’m sure lots of your viewers on this continent could generate some sales as a result.... Looking forward to seeing a complete guitar body done with these products over a dye/stain coloured body.... It would be interesting to see your process on that....
Have you ever grain filled pine? I had a 54 p bass made with furniture grade pine. Never finished a pine guitar.. Thanks... Chris shrinkage is directly proportional to the sexiness of the guitar your looking at!
I have birch panels and the have the oval and butterfly patches, this looks like a good solution, I want to be able to apply an acrylic gesso primer over this, will the product take applications over the cured surface?
Can this technique be used for a gun stock (walnut)? Of-the-shelf oil finish removed, then add filler, then layers of BLO (wet sanded?), finally with layers of tru-oil?
Chris Franklyn As you say it appears only surf shops seem to stock Solarez products here in the U.K. CJBs Surf Company Bodmin being the only one I know of. I will be phoning them to what they stock.
Hi Chris have you experienced Solarez grain filler not curing in sunlight? It happened to me. I sanded and prepped my Taylor 810 guitar ready for Solarez and applied it first to the bottom (rosewood) of the guitar... let it sit for a few minutes and took it outside into direct bright sunlight about 3PM in the afternoon outside it was about 65 degrees. After 3 minutes it was still tacky on most areas. I waited another 5 minutes still tacky. In all it sat in the sunlight for 30 minutes... it had hardened in some areas where I first applied it but the last areas I spread it to would not harden! I had to use acetone to wipe the uncured stuff off and its quite a mess because it was partially hardened but still tacky. I'm tempted to never use Solarez again... either I did something wrong or the stuff is a real pain in the rearend.
@@HighlineGuitars Hey Chris I talked to the owner of Solarez. Apparently the oil in rosewood has to be cleaned completely from the surface with a white cloth and acetone or it could inhibit the curing process. It could take several cleanings before your cloth comes away clean. The first time I tried it, the cloth was dark brownish purple just from all the oil in the wood which rises to the surface after sanding. I noticed there were hundreds of little brown pin head sized dots of oil all over the back of the guitar which I thought were left over varnish or stain from the factory that had soaked into the wood. Glad I called the Solarez factory!
Watched your solarez can't believe it's not lacquer vid. Wondering why the solarez I bought is clear and what you used is milky white? Do i have the right material or did they change formulas?
Is that a water based product, and would it work with oil based finishes and or shellac, waxed and de-waxed? I am doing a natural ash body and just experimenting on ash sample blocks at the moment. I wet sanded (220) using Danish oil and seems filled when it dries, but then I applied amber shellac over that, and the grain seems to be raising again.
What is this composed of or based on as the main ingredient? No SDS/TDS provided on site, is this similar to others, talc powder in solvent, which is what 99% of them are. The powder particles lodge in the wood pores and block them.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks Chris, any recommendations on filler/sealer like this one that would prep porous wood for stain/dye application? I want to stain the top without it seeping through the sides of the body
Hi, nice video, thanks.a question please Can I use it on my ash cue to fill its grains? Over time ash cue grain pops up, ..may be due to reasons you mentioned in video (shrinkage). Cue has to clean with very slight damp cloth many times during playing. Cue has to send back to cue makers to refinish, and it takes few weeks to come back. Any idea how to fill those grains and then apply oil finish on cue. And it won’t effect cue color as well? Look to your reply, Regards
Seems that they don't mix in microballoons any longer. I tried stirring in separately purchased Solarez 3M microballoons, but the surface remained cloudy after curing.
I have an older guitar that I am redoing. I have removed all the old painted surfaces because it was badly chipped in many places. I also have a couple of areas that have dent marks in it, where the guitar was bumped sometime in its lifetime. Would this make a good wood filler if the same color sawdust were mixed and added to this product to fill in the bumped in area. That way this product would show the wood sawdust close to the normal surface once the dent has been filled to the right level for smooth sanding? It would be a matter of filling the small dent slightly higher than the normal surface with this product and same colored sawdust of the guitars overall surface, and once cured, could be leveled by sanding that area to the right smooth finished level, thus giving it the appearance, no dent was even there in the first place before sealing the whole guitar surface on a final coat of the product you are speaking about here. Have you tried filling a small dent using this product and same colored sawdust as the guitar body? I'd be interested in your findings.
i ordered 4oz of this stuff what i received was 4oz of clear sealer no microballoons. after about five attempts at e-mailing them i finally got a response one person said they no longer put microballoons in their products and another person said they never have used microballoons. i also ordered 4oz of their i cant believe its not laguer brush on formula and 4oz of the sprayon formula. i received two 4oz bottles of brushon formula and no sprayon formula. not a good experience with these folks
Don't add any kind of color to Solarez. That will spoil its chemistry and prevent it from curing. Instead, apply your black paint or dye first. Sand off the excess while leaving it in the grain and pores and THEN apply and cure the Solarex. It cures water clear so the color left in the grain and pores will show through.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks so much! your videos have given me a lot of great info about tackling my first project. Any idea if this same application method work for the brush on clear coat product of the same line?
@@frick584 Yes, it will. In fact, I used the brush on formula as a grain filler before they had the grain filler available. Honestly, I can't tell the difference between the two.
Thanks for the great videos Chris. Some comments I've seen on the web about this product have said that it won't cure in really deeply pored woods if it soaks in too much. Have you experienced any issues like this? I'll be using this on a build pretty soon and would love to hear more of your experiences with it. Thanks.
Hi thank you for your good video. On the Solarez web site they are showing three Sizes of Micro Balloons filler. Can you suggest a sizes that would provide a maximum transparancy and less milky results uppon curring? because I intend to use rather dark wood since you seam to suggest that if applied in thin layers it provides a clear finish? or is phillipine mahogany is the darkest kind of wood you would recommend its usage? Also they seam to suggest on the Grain and filler sealer product that the addition of MicroBalloons could be done for light colored wood only. So I am unsure were to stand with using this product for my application. Thank You!
@@HighlineGuitars Yea, I'm aware! LOL....if I add the microspheres, it might help a little with the sanding issue, but believe me, I am used to sanding it in other applications. The Solarez is a ready made perfect product for this operation, I was just curious. Thanks for your speedy, informative replies.
Actually a better question - on snowy days, quite often the sun is usually hidden by clouds, etc .. is that amount of sunlight still enough to cure solaraz products ? Also - do subsequent coats require their previous coats be sanded so they provide "mechanical" bond or this is not necessary ? Not that I don't plan to sand, this is more of a chemical property question to see if a proper bond can still be achieved without scuffing the surface. Thank you for your time.
So I used this stuff that is not what you are showing but the same stuff that is the link. Yesterday I put on and today it is still not dry. How is anyone used this and not having it dry? I will ask again where can you get the product your are showing and not the product that is in the link that is not the same product?
PS: As if the terminology was not confusing before, now there are various products called 'sanding sealer' 'grain sealer' 'grain filler' and 'pore filler.' When a manufacturer comes up with permutations of those names, it makes it even harder to determine what goes with what, and in which order.
Hey Chris I’ve been trying to figure out what is the best kind of paint to use over this product on a solid finish job. Any thoughts? Thanks for these videos!
Chris, doing a project with swamp ash. For a translucent finish, like a light amber, would I need to first use some other grain filler with black or brown dye first, then use solarez after? Or does the solarez make the grain pop enough? Thanks!
It really depends on what you want to achieve visually. If possible, you should try testing different scenarios on some scrap. Solarez will enhance the wood by darkening it a bit, but it probably won't pop the grain the way you want it to. You could apply black or brown dye first, sand off the excess from the surface, which will leave it in the grain, and then apply the Solarez as a way to fill the grain and provide a protective top coat. Testing is the key. Good luck!
Not in this video, but I like to apply a black dye/stain and sand it back after it has dried. Then, I use the grain filler. That really pops the grain.
hi I have a couple of questions I have two guitar bodies I am going to finish one of them is from a squire showmaster 7 string that I got cheap I already took the paint off which was a nightmare and I wanted to ask you what would you recommend for sanding sealer the body is made out of older I think the other body is pine. I am going to do these two bodies for now so I don't need a giant can of sealer what would you recommend second question related to those bodies I am planning on painting them solid colors and was hoping I would be able to use the HVLP spray gun and again right now these are the only two bodies I have to work with so as much as I'd like to I can't buy the sprayer you're using what would you recommend do you think the harbor freight cheap $25 sprayer with work or should I get something off of Amazon what grit should I sand these bodies to before paint thanks for your help and for your great channel and content
I am using an all water-based finishing approach with products from Crystalac. For that reason, I have to use a spray gun that has stainless steel passages, which makes them more expensive. If you want to use a cheapo Harbor Freight gun, I would recommend spraying solvent-based finish like automotive lacquer or 2K polyurethane. However, you will need to spray outside or in an explosion proof spray booth and you will need to wear appropriate hazmat protection (total skin coverage and a respirator). Sand the surface to 400 grit before spraying your sealer, primer, and paint.
@@HighlineGuitars well, i do want these bodies to come out well and be happy with them, i know ill be doing more in the future. what would you recommend for me to try on these bodies so they come out ok. spray cans? these are going to be my first paint work and i don't want to get discouraged with crappy results for future builds. i mentioned the cheap harbor freight sprayer as one option but im willing to buy something to get good results. please point me in the right direction
What do you think of this as an inexpensive option...since you mentioned you're using metal passages in the sprayer as opposed to usual plastic ones you find eBay item number:390566555911
Hi Chris, thanks as always. I like the way Z-Poxy shows grain patterns but have the same sinking issues as everyone else. Would you use a seal coat of Z-Poxy to set the color and then use the Solarez filler over it to level the surface? We're talking mahogany and Spanish cedar here. Cheers, Skip
Sorry, I didn't state my case very well. I was talking about the way Z-Poxy makes unstained wood look. It's a pretty good filler too but the Solarez seems to be what we all wish we had been using. For laughs I'll try the Z-Poxy on scrap and put the "I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer" over the top to see how it adheres. I have both in the shop now -- and I certainly have plenty of scrap. Thanks, sh
great video man! I had the same problem! grainfilled with epoxy, primered with polyurethane, then base colour and 2k urethane clear...let the guitars dry for 3 months (because in the automotive industry they do so) and then cut and polished...they remained like a glass for 6 months and then one day the friggin mahogany grain telegraphed through...very frustrating...I'm gonna try this! I hope it works! is that one even better than their uv cured polyester grain sealer? thanks a lor for sharing
Hello Loved your demonstration, I build acoustic guitars using rosewood and its extremely hard to get it pore filled. Will this product work on the thinner wood.
Hi Chris, would you recommend this product for some ambrosia maple that I want to stain a darker brown color? Apply a good coat and sand it all the way back to only use it as a grain filler before staining? I'm real concerned with blotchiness.
I would recommend a water-based sanding sealer for your situation. It will allow better absorption of the stain after sanding it back while allowing consistent coverage without blotchiness.
I want to finish a walnut radio cabinet. My intent is to stain with dark walnut, then apply Mohawk Dark Walnut toner, and finish with several coat of clear satin lacquer. Where in the process would I use the Solarez grain sealer?
It would have to be before the stain and toner in that process. No way the stain or toner can penetrate through cured polyester resin and get to the wood. As for the lacquer, I can't say how it would bond to this product.
No, but I would use it. Wood expands and contracts over time which causes the grain to telegraph through your primer, paint, and clear coat. Grain filler helps to prevent that. Even in Alder.
I'm willing to try this product but does anyone have info about compatibility with other types of finishes? Nitro and 2K polyurethane primarily. I have used Z-Poxy on several instruments over the past couple of years and although it says Z-Poxy doesn't shrink everywhere on the internet - it does. I have ash guitar body that was nice and level 1 month ago, and now the finish has sunken to the pores.
@@HighlineGuitars That's a good question. I'm not sure, but I would say it didn't. Because that guitar has a poplar burl top and the finish over knots has also sunken.
I would put down a wood sealer first, sand it back and then stain. That will ensure uniform absorption of the stain. Then I would apply another coat of the sealer to lock in the stain followed by the grain filler (clear of course) after the sealer has fully cured.
Chris, I love your videos thank you for making them! I have a question, on a mahogany body where I want to use a cherry red stain, should I mix with this product or first stain and then grain fill? Thanks!
@@HighlineGuitars Yes seen that and that is the product i have. But it is clear and not sure it is the same product you are using. It came in a plastic pint and not a quart can like you have.
Hello Chris, This is definitely one of the coolest video tips you have done so far. I have been following your work for the past 3 months, for I am building my 1st guitar Kit, and I don't want to mess it up. It's a Basswood body, with Maple top Les Paul style guitar. It also has a Maple Neck with ebony fret board. The body is cut out for H/P90/H, and A FR Tremolo Bridge. When I saw the kit on e-bay, It was a no brainer, For it Broke About every LP law in the book. I had to accept the challenge. That being said. I plan on painting a design over the maple top, and then applying a gloss finish over that. I'm thinking two coats of Solarez Grain Sealer. Level Sand. Then a thin coat of Solarez dual cure Polyester. Level sand. Then base coat of water-based Crystalac Black. Then do some vinyl tape Masking, followed by one coat of paint, with Createx Auto Bourne Air Brush Paint. Un-mask Vinyl. Then the clear Coat Finish with either Crystalac Brite Tone, Or Solarez Dual Cure Polyester On the Top? What do you recommend? The back of the guitar is Basswood. Most excellent tone wood it is. But, it is a softer wood. So I'm probably going to go with the Solarez Polyester On The Back. Question Is. Do you have any Suggestions for this process?
Hello Chris, I am new to guitar finishing and your videos are great. My learning has been trial by fire, with some things working really well and then the next time I have an issue. I just finished an ash body bass (poly sealer, primer, hok Kandy basecoat and 4 coats of clear) and not knowing how porous ash is, I am at the very dilemma that you referenced. My finish has sucked into the body. How is the best way to get this finish stripped down to the point I can apply this product to prevent the ash texture from sucking the finish. Would I start sanding at 120? I am assuming I will have to get this back to bare wood to apply this grain filler. Or do you have any other tricks for a situation like this.
My son and I are working on our first Telecaster build, using ash. I watched your video on Aqua Coat grain filler and then this one. Have you found that the Aqua Coat shrinks over time?
Yes, it does. All water-based products shrink. However, it usually stops after about two weeks depending on your climate. Also, the heat generated by machine buffing can cause shrinkage.
What if you're working in a shop with windows? Would it be okay to apply this as long as the sun was overhead the building (say noon?), or would you have to black out the windows?
Thanks. I'll check it out. have you tried the Gork's stuff? Been hearing so much buzz about it I think I'll try it too... but would love to hear an expert's opinion like yours. My friend contacted them and they sent a free sample.
I’m curious about your opinion. I’ve seen elsewhere that people have suggested staining or finishing first and then putting on a clear grain filler. Let the grain soak up the finish first leaving less to fill then either leaving it as is to cure or putting another layer of finish. This product looks great and kind of defeats other fillers, but if finishing first and then filling would work better for regular fillers wouldn’t this work better as well?
It all depends on the outcome you want. If your primary concern is color, dye or stain first and follow up with the clear grain filler. If you want to pop the grain, fill it first with a dark-tinted grain filler, sand it back, and follow with the dye or stain.
@@HighlineGuitars yeah that makes sense. Aqua coat is tintable and I’ve seen some really nice work with silver grain and black finish. I’ll look to see if this stuff is tintable. I imagine it would be. Thanks for getting back to me and introducing me to this product.
10:09 LOL that little info-mercial at the end is priceless 😂
Love this man’s sense of humor “if you or anyone you know may be experiencing shrinkage in your wood”.. 😆😆😆
"I was just asking for a friend of mine. Besides, it was cold."
Thanks for the tip, Chris. You have some of the best luthier tips on TH-cam.
I love the, “if you or someone you care about is experiencing embarrassing shrinkage with your wood filler...”
I just posted the same comment! So funny!
Help me. I have embarrassing shrinkage.
I know im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can give me!
@Levi Lance instablaster ;)
Chris is by far the best and most informative luthier on TH-cam. Not only does he show you what he's doing, he goes the extra mile to explain, and these videos save builders from mistakes and setbacks. And they're great videos for anyone wanting to get started building and repairing guitars.
Wow! Thank you for the kind words. I will do my best to continue with providing useful videos.
agreed!
I had the exact problem you described happen to me when restoring an old bass drum. I used a water based grain filler that dried super quick and after multiple coats of clear the finish was flawless. After about 3 months grain lines started to appear and being a high gloss black it was quite noticable. Since then I've been using a 2K polyurethane basecoat to fill the grain just by laying down a super thick coat and then level sanding it. Not particularly cost efficient but it does work well. However I heard even catalysed finishes tend to shrink just a tiny bit over time.
This is the exact video I needed exactly when I needed it. Next project I'm using this. I already went to the solarez site and put it in my cart. I used timbermate on a mahogany body on my current build and after 3 applications theres still spots that i can see the grain. I dont mond doing multiple coats but it would be great not having to wait to long for it to dry. Plus it smells God aweful. I wish I'd seen this sooner.....my girlfriend will never have to worry about my shrinkage problems again!!!
I found Timbermate to be difficult to work with and not worth the extra work. I think I’ll use this as well! Hope you had good results!
great video. the hard rock music intro then the extreme contrast of your calm serene face was funny haha
I've used something called micro-balloons doing body and fender work and the product I've used is micro-size hollow glass balloons. It has the consistency of flour. Maybe its the same thing used here? So when sanding you have to be extra careful to not breath the glass dust.
Yes, this product used glass micro-balloons. However, I'm not sure if it is still formulated with them.
I have grain filled Rosewood fingerboards with Elmer’s walnut wood putty with good results.
I ordered some of this stuff directly from Solarez to fill a roasted swamp ash body - at least it was supposed to be this stuff... I ordered the small 4 oz size, and shook it up vigorously for a minute or so, but when I poured it out it was not white, and was not thick like pancake batter. It came with an extra cap that has a nozzle, so that’s what I used. I tried the “rub it in with fingers and scrape off with a card” method, and while that may work great for a flat piece of wood, not so much on a Strat body with the contours. I didn’t notice that there were a few drips on the sides and back and they were a major pain in the butt to level. I’m going to try the “wipe on with a coffee filter” method for the next coat and hope for better results.
Other way I do it, I preraised the grain of the wood by spraying water once dry I sanded with what ever grit sand paper you finished the wood, then I sealed the wood with shellac (2 coats, sand with 400 grit between coats) then apply the wood grain filler if your choice with out worrying about shrinkage , then seal it with shellac again then finish with the clear coat of your choice
I loved your opening statement ".. how come they don't work .. " LOL - Which is "true" in so many variations ... Loved your video, I have learnt quite a few things from watching them and applying the principles on my model airplane finishes ...
I am an artist, I paint on wood panels, I am starting to use his tips in my art. Great job Chris, fantastic tips.
How is it I never came across this channel before??
This is good stuff here! Guy reminds me of my 8th grade shop teacher! I loved my 8th grade shop teacher!
I’m going to be binge watching this guy all week!
I remember my 8th-grade shop teacher as well. That guy really deserves a lot of credit.
How about a list of the kind of woods that would and would not need this grain filler. It would be helpful to know. Thank you once again for your time and effort to educate myself and others.
Maybe the companies that make grain filler have such a list. I follow the simple rule; if you can feel the grain and pores and you don’t want to feel the grain and pores, you’re going to need a grain and pore filler. It’s not a species related decision. It’s a decision based on a specific board and it’s characteristics.
I'm transforming the cabinets in my new home. They were that old school early 2000s golden oak. I know that grain is pretty hard to hide. I just want them to be a nice smooth white. I've seen all kinds of opinions and options to do this, but ultimately this is probably one of the more informative videos. I'm hoping this stuff will fill in that wood grain and allow me to throw some paint over the top. I was considering using some of the spray paint from my job, it's a white sandable filler primer. I figured if I sanded it and then hit it with that, then sanded it again and put some paint over the top it should do the trick. But if I incorporate this product, I'm thinking I will get a better result
Hey Mr.Nuna916, over the last couple of weeks I have refinished oak cabinets just as you describe, also in white. Believe it or not, the grain filler I used was good old fashioned drywall compound mixed with a little water - to a almost molasses viscosity. Brush it on, let it dry, and lightly sand so as not to gouge out what I filled. It has worked absolutely perfectly for me. Just throwing it out there as an inexpensive, and effective, option.
@@AA-dx9ky hey I appreciate the response, and you know I've actually heard about this before. There was an older gentleman on TH-cam that was describing the same thing and he had mixed it to about a pancake batter viscosity. I actually just finished sanding everything, even though I'm using Beyond paint. I decided it would be better to sand and Prime anyway. Maybe this will alleviate the chipping issue. I'm honestly hesitant to do what you did because of the amount of work and detail it would take LOL it was a pain sanding all these things. I'm going to see how sanding and priming before Beyond paint works. If I like the single drawer that I do, I'll leave it as is, if not I think I'm going to have to go your route
Always welcome a cure for my shrinkage problems!
There is no cure Bro, it comes to us all with age 🤣🤣
@@michaelbritain5546 I got some great pills for that now. So covered 🤓 lol
@@y007p3 ah the blue pills, ok 🤣🤣
Finally, a good product that can be purchased in the UK without paying double the price or jumping through import hoops and paying enough postage that you'd think it was going to be delivered on a pallet.
I was originally considering coating the swamp ash with low viscosity CA glue.
Hi, Where at?
@@brianscullion9040 Type Solarez into Amazon.co.uk
@@evilutionltd thanks
Thanks for your video. It's the most informative guitar wood working vid I've watched this year. Im a fly tyer as well as a guitar player. Solarez makes UV resin for flies as well.
Funny close too 🤣
When working with super open pore dark mahogany acoustic necks, I have yet to find a single product that fills the gaping pours while still providing transparency. Even Stewmac grain fillers do not do this. If you have porous wood, the only real option is to keep slathering on clear finish of some kind until you get level. This is very time consuming and a pain in the butt. If you fill the pores with mahogany colored filler, it will ruin the appearance of the grain. You will be looking at the filler, not the grain. If you use "clear" fillers like Aquacoat grain filler on really dark wood, it will "ghost" the appearance when you put on lacquer leaving a whitish haze. The only consistent way to apply stain is also before any filler is used. Otherwise you are staining filler. Next time you look at a Martin neck from the 70s or 80s, think about how much work it was to get beautiful clear grain leveled lacquer. I've also never found any water base products that work as well as oil based. Add to all this the fact that every peice of wood is going to react differently to filler and finish, and you have a lot of work in front of you.
Thanks for this video, I'm buying this for a new ash guitar body.
Really appreciate the information this is just great keep up the good videos really appreciate what you're doing and you sharing have a blessed day
Love the ending! Perfect! I also just want to thank you for your videos. I am slowly getting in to building guitars with the end goal of making custom guitars. Your videos have been a great resource for me. Thank you!
Thanks for the tip! I'm not a big fan of the patina craze unless it's brought about through the natural course of time. But I do like a very smooth, very glossy finish.
I’m restoring a 1918 singer sewing machine cabinet.
Wow... I’m thinking this might be Perfect
I'm experiencing embarrassing shrinkage. I'll try this product. Thank you.
Leave your personal life out of this. This is about guitars...lol
Excellent tip!
Hi
I need some advice on grain filler for my snooker cue which is made of Ash wood. Over time grains gets open and can be felt during playing.
Is there any filler which is easily applied and then smooth out with 0000 wool. I don’t wanna use sand paper on cue.,
I have seen clear gel based grain filler ( by AQUA coat) but they are available only in USA.
Plzz advise me how to refill the grains on my ash cue? And then smooth with steel wool etc. Thanks.
Regards.
Have you tried epoxy? I know the guys who make high end fishing rods usually use 2 part epoxy which seems like a similar application. Epoxy dries quick and has really minimal shrinking.
Nice bit of information. Now, on to find a source of the stuff.
Follow up question. I see that solarez has another product called polyester grain filler and sealer. Other than price, what’s the difference
You would need to ask Solarez.
Hey Chris.... thanks for this tip. These new products from Solarez look great and I’d really like to give them a try.... but finding a supplier in Europe of the ‘can’t believe it’s not lacquer’ materials is really difficult. If you have contacts at the company, it would be great if you could encourage them to find a reliable Europe-based distributor..... I’m sure lots of your viewers on this continent could generate some sales as a result.... Looking forward to seeing a complete guitar body done with these products over a dye/stain coloured body.... It would be interesting to see your process on that....
Yeah, totally agree. I keep looking, but can't find these at all (apart from some tube stuff in surf shops).
Hi John, please send and e-mail write to Maria. She is in Poland and imports Solarez for Europe: maria@m-info.eu
Such a nice video! love it! Thanks a million.
Thanks Chris I'll have to try it.
Outstanding Chris.....have you tried UV boxes? Love the pitch...I'm old, of course I have shrinkage...LOL lol. 🤪 🙏
Not yet!
Have you ever grain filled pine? I had a 54 p bass made with furniture grade pine. Never finished a pine guitar.. Thanks... Chris shrinkage is directly proportional to the sexiness of the guitar your looking at!
No need to fill the grain on pine.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for info..
I'm just about to start a build and will try this product. Thanks for the video.
Very Cool! Is there any way to use this with a dye for a colored grain fill?
I have birch panels and the have the oval and butterfly patches, this looks like a good solution, I want to be able to apply an acrylic gesso primer over this, will the product take applications over the cured surface?
I don't know. Try it.
Can this technique be used for a gun stock (walnut)? Of-the-shelf oil finish removed, then add filler, then layers of BLO (wet sanded?), finally with layers of tru-oil?
The only places I can find with Solarez stuff in the UK are surf shops and they don't seem to stock these *lacquer products sadly :(
Chris Franklyn
As you say it appears only surf shops seem to stock Solarez products here in the U.K. CJBs Surf Company Bodmin being the only one I know of.
I will be phoning them to what they stock.
Hi Chris have you experienced Solarez grain filler not curing in sunlight? It happened to me. I sanded and prepped my Taylor 810 guitar ready for Solarez and applied it first to the bottom (rosewood) of the guitar... let it sit for a few minutes and took it outside into direct bright sunlight about 3PM in the afternoon outside it was about 65 degrees. After 3 minutes it was still tacky on most areas. I waited another 5 minutes still tacky. In all it sat in the sunlight for 30 minutes... it had hardened in some areas where I first applied it but the last areas I spread it to would not harden! I had to use acetone to wipe the uncured stuff off and its quite a mess because it was partially hardened but still tacky. I'm tempted to never use Solarez again... either I did something wrong or the stuff is a real pain in the rearend.
Never happened to me.
@@HighlineGuitars Hey Chris I talked to the owner of Solarez. Apparently the oil in rosewood has to be cleaned completely from the surface with a white cloth and acetone or it could inhibit the curing process. It could take several cleanings before your cloth comes away clean. The first time I tried it, the cloth was dark brownish purple just from all the oil in the wood which rises to the surface after sanding. I noticed there were hundreds of little brown pin head sized dots of oil all over the back of the guitar which I thought were left over varnish or stain from the factory that had soaked into the wood. Glad I called the Solarez factory!
Really enjoyed this. Thank you. If I want to stain my wood, am I able to stain over this product?
As long as you sand it back to the surface while leaving it in the grain.
Watched your solarez can't believe it's not lacquer vid. Wondering why the solarez I bought is clear and what you used is milky white? Do i have the right material or did they change formulas?
I don't know. I don't make it.
Is that a water based product, and would it work with oil based finishes and or shellac, waxed and de-waxed? I am doing a natural ash body and just experimenting on ash sample blocks at the moment. I wet sanded (220) using Danish oil and seems filled when it dries, but then I applied amber shellac over that, and the grain seems to be raising again.
It's not water-based and I would use de-waxed shellac. It's possible your amber shellac contains just enough water to raise the grain.
@@HighlineGuitars Very good! Thank you for the advice, your videos are excellent.
Will this work on oak cabinets I want to paint?
Yes, provided you can take them out in the sun to cure. Oak may take 3 applications or so.
What is this composed of or based on as the main ingredient? No SDS/TDS provided on site, is this similar to others, talc powder in solvent, which is what 99% of them are. The powder particles lodge in the wood pores and block them.
You will need to contact the manufacturer for that information.
Thanks for another informative video, Chris. Can this grain sealer be dyed? Is it compatible with oil finishes? Mark
No, it cannot be dyed and yes, it is compatible with oil finishes as long as they are completely cured.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks Chris, any recommendations on filler/sealer like this one that would prep porous wood for stain/dye application? I want to stain the top without it seeping through the sides of the body
I'm in my 30s and get AARP cards all the time. Lol. I've tried a few fillers and had the same exact issue. Will have to check this out!
You better go pick it up unless your rich. Seems like some pretty expensive stuff to me.
Hi, nice video, thanks.a question please
Can I use it on my ash cue to fill its grains? Over time ash cue grain pops up, ..may be due to reasons you mentioned in video (shrinkage). Cue has to clean with very slight damp cloth many times during playing. Cue has to send back to cue makers to refinish, and it takes few weeks to come back.
Any idea how to fill those grains and then apply oil finish on cue. And it won’t effect cue color as well? Look to your reply,
Regards
Seems that they don't mix in microballoons any longer. I tried stirring in separately purchased Solarez 3M microballoons, but the surface remained cloudy after curing.
I have an older guitar that I am redoing. I have removed all the old painted surfaces because it was badly chipped in many places. I also have a couple of areas that have dent marks in it, where the guitar was bumped sometime in its lifetime. Would this make a good wood filler if the same color sawdust were mixed and added to this product to fill in the bumped in area. That way this product would show the wood sawdust close to the normal surface once the dent has been filled to the right level for smooth sanding? It would be a matter of filling the small dent slightly higher than the normal surface with this product and same colored sawdust of the guitars overall surface, and once cured, could be leveled by sanding that area to the right smooth finished level, thus giving it the appearance, no dent was even there in the first place before sealing the whole guitar surface on a final coat of the product you are speaking about here. Have you tried filling a small dent using this product and same colored sawdust as the guitar body? I'd be interested in your findings.
No, I haven't tried that.
i ordered 4oz of this stuff what i received was 4oz of clear sealer no microballoons. after about five attempts at e-mailing them i finally got a response one person said they no longer put microballoons in their products and another person said they never have used microballoons. i also ordered 4oz of their i cant believe its not laguer brush on formula and 4oz of the sprayon formula. i received two 4oz bottles of brushon formula and no sprayon formula. not a good experience with these folks
What about adding some black acrylic paint or dye to make the grain on mahog or ash really "pop" like in other vids about grain filling?
Don't add any kind of color to Solarez. That will spoil its chemistry and prevent it from curing. Instead, apply your black paint or dye first. Sand off the excess while leaving it in the grain and pores and THEN apply and cure the Solarex. It cures water clear so the color left in the grain and pores will show through.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks so much! your videos have given me a lot of great info about tackling my first project.
Any idea if this same application method work for the brush on clear coat product of the same line?
@@frick584 Yes, it will. In fact, I used the brush on formula as a grain filler before they had the grain filler available. Honestly, I can't tell the difference between the two.
Thanks for the great videos Chris. Some comments I've seen on the web about this product have said that it won't cure in really deeply pored woods if it soaks in too much. Have you experienced any issues like this? I'll be using this on a build pretty soon and would love to hear more of your experiences with it. Thanks.
Hi thank you for your good video. On the Solarez web site they are showing three Sizes of Micro Balloons filler. Can you suggest a sizes that would provide a maximum transparancy and less milky results uppon curring? because I intend to use rather dark wood since you seam to suggest that if applied in thin layers it provides a clear finish? or is phillipine mahogany is the darkest kind of wood you would recommend its usage? Also they seam to suggest on the Grain and filler sealer product that the addition of MicroBalloons could be done for light colored wood only. So I am unsure were to stand with using this product for my application. Thank You!
That’s a question for Solarez.
Ever tried polyester resin (as used for fiberglass layup) applied in the same manner as this stuff as a "filler/sealer" ?
Solarez ICBINL is polyester.
@@HighlineGuitars So polyester resin should work, if applied in a similar fashion?
@ yes, however, it’s extremely hard to sand.
@@HighlineGuitars Yea, I'm aware! LOL....if I add the microspheres, it might help a little with the sanding issue, but believe me, I am used to sanding it in other applications. The Solarez is a ready made perfect product for this operation, I was just curious. Thanks for your speedy, informative replies.
Actually a better question - on snowy days, quite often the sun is usually hidden by clouds, etc .. is that amount of sunlight still enough to cure solaraz products ? Also - do subsequent coats require their previous coats be sanded so they provide "mechanical" bond or this is not necessary ? Not that I don't plan to sand, this is more of a chemical property question to see if a proper bond can still be achieved without scuffing the surface. Thank you for your time.
Yes, it will cure on cloudy days. It just takes a little longer. I recommend scuff sanding between coats.
@@HighlineGuitars - Perfect !!! Thank you for your response.
I live in Scotland, what if there is no sun?
UV lights.
So I used this stuff that is not what you are showing but the same stuff that is the link. Yesterday I put on and today it is still not dry. How is anyone used this and not having it dry? I will ask again where can you get the product your are showing and not the product that is in the link that is not the same product?
The product in the link is the same product I used.
Thanks for the informative video. Can one apply dye on top of the grain sealer and before the clear coat?
Yes.
No use in the UK tough as too expensive. $35+ for only 4oz of the stuff. I need to move to the USA!
I'm working on a pain in the swamp ash guitar now.
Thanks.
PS: As if the terminology was not confusing before, now there are various products called 'sanding sealer' 'grain sealer' 'grain filler' and 'pore filler.' When a manufacturer comes up with permutations of those names, it makes it even harder to determine what goes with what, and in which order.
Hi! what a great video! do you think this can help and work good with buckeye burl tops? Regards Rodrigo
Hey Chris I’ve been trying to figure out what is the best kind of paint to use over this product on a solid finish job. Any thoughts? Thanks for these videos!
The only paint I have used over Solarez is Createx.
@@HighlineGuitars ok thanks. I’d like to use nitro over it, but I’m not sure how to tell which products are compatible with one another.
@@mastabad2 Test on scrap. It's the only way to know.
@@HighlineGuitars will do. Thanks!
Chris, doing a project with swamp ash. For a translucent finish, like a light amber, would I need to first use some other grain filler with black or brown dye first, then use solarez after? Or does the solarez make the grain pop enough? Thanks!
It really depends on what you want to achieve visually. If possible, you should try testing different scenarios on some scrap. Solarez will enhance the wood by darkening it a bit, but it probably won't pop the grain the way you want it to. You could apply black or brown dye first, sand off the excess from the surface, which will leave it in the grain, and then apply the Solarez as a way to fill the grain and provide a protective top coat. Testing is the key. Good luck!
Could you add black mica powder pigment to this and get a more pronounced grain?
No.
Really nice products! Did you tried staining black so it can enhanced for example mahogany grain?
Not in this video, but I like to apply a black dye/stain and sand it back after it has dried. Then, I use the grain filler. That really pops the grain.
Now I know to always cure wood before applying any primer. Thnx!
Seriously though, Would you recommend this, or the Acrylic Black paint and joint compound on a PRS diy that says its basswood?
I would use this filler on basswood. Black tinted joint compound probably isn't going to highlight the appearance of the grain with basswood.
@@HighlineGuitars cool, Thanks
How does this compare to diy pore filler, like drywall joint compound and water?
@@scott645 It’s much better than the filler you describe because it doesn’t shrink as it cures.
hi I have a couple of questions I have two guitar bodies I am going to finish one of them is from a squire showmaster 7 string that I got cheap I already took the paint off which was a nightmare and I wanted to ask you what would you recommend for sanding sealer the body is made out of older I think the other body is pine. I am going to do these two bodies for now so I don't need a giant can of sealer what would you recommend
second question related to those bodies I am planning on painting them solid colors and was hoping I would be able to use the HVLP spray gun and again right now these are the only two bodies I have to work with so as much as I'd like to I can't buy the sprayer you're using what would you recommend do you think the harbor freight cheap $25 sprayer with work or should I get something off of Amazon
what grit should I sand these bodies to before paint
thanks for your help and for your great channel and content
I am using an all water-based finishing approach with products from Crystalac. For that reason, I have to use a spray gun that has stainless steel passages, which makes them more expensive. If you want to use a cheapo Harbor Freight gun, I would recommend spraying solvent-based finish like automotive lacquer or 2K polyurethane. However, you will need to spray outside or in an explosion proof spray booth and you will need to wear appropriate hazmat protection (total skin coverage and a respirator). Sand the surface to 400 grit before spraying your sealer, primer, and paint.
@@HighlineGuitars well, i do want these bodies to come out well and be happy with them, i know ill be doing more in the future.
what would you recommend for me to try on these bodies so they come out ok. spray cans? these are going to be my first paint work and i don't want to get discouraged with crappy results for future builds. i mentioned the cheap harbor freight sprayer as one option but im willing to buy something to get good results. please point me in the right direction
What do you think of this as an inexpensive option...since you mentioned you're using metal passages in the sprayer as opposed to usual plastic ones you find
eBay item number:390566555911
Hi Chris, thanks as always. I like the way Z-Poxy shows grain patterns but have the same sinking issues as everyone else. Would you use a seal coat of Z-Poxy to set the color and then use the Solarez filler over it to level the surface? We're talking mahogany and Spanish cedar here. Cheers, Skip
I would mix dye with a water-based poly for color and Solarez on top to fill, seal and even top coat.
Sorry, I didn't state my case very well. I was talking about the way Z-Poxy makes unstained wood look. It's a pretty good filler too but the Solarez seems to be what we all wish we had been using. For laughs I'll try the Z-Poxy on scrap and put the "I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer" over the top to see how it adheres. I have both in the shop now -- and I certainly have plenty of scrap. Thanks, sh
great video man! I had the same problem! grainfilled with epoxy, primered with polyurethane, then base colour and 2k urethane clear...let the guitars dry for 3 months (because in the automotive industry they do so) and then cut and polished...they remained like a glass for 6 months and then one day the friggin mahogany grain telegraphed through...very frustrating...I'm gonna try this! I hope it works! is that one even better than their uv cured polyester grain sealer? thanks a lor for sharing
Hi - can you use this with a wipe-on poly finish?
I imagine this product would not work for oil or oil/poly type finishes. What would you recommend there on Korina.
Rub the oil/poly into the wood with 4F pumice. If you can’t get the pumice, thin the oil with mineral spirits and wet sand it into the wood.
nice!! i'm gonna give this a try. thank you!
I just seen needs UV light at 385nm to cure. What light are you using or anyone else using this stuff that you are using?
I use sunlight. Nothing else.
Hello
Loved your demonstration, I build acoustic guitars using rosewood and its extremely hard to get it pore filled. Will this product work on the thinner wood.
I think it was designed for acoustic guitars. Some have had issues curing it on certain dark woods, but I've had no problems myself.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you very much.
Hi Chris, would you recommend this product for some ambrosia maple that I want to stain a darker brown color? Apply a good coat and sand it all the way back to only use it as a grain filler before staining? I'm real concerned with blotchiness.
I would recommend a water-based sanding sealer for your situation. It will allow better absorption of the stain after sanding it back while allowing consistent coverage without blotchiness.
Is this paintable? I'm trying to smooth out my oak cabinets. Using water based paint.
Yes, it is paintable as long as you scuff it first.
Hi, Should it be used before or after mahogany dyes?
After.
@@HighlineGuitars Can I then use 2K lacquer as a finish? Thank you!
Thanks for the video.
How would this grain filler work on an acoustic instrument like a ukulele?
Would it subdue the tone or volume?
It was originally designed for acoustic guitars.
Woodmate... From Australia...by far the best.
Butch Edwards never heard of it. Link?
I want to finish a walnut radio cabinet. My intent is to stain with dark walnut, then apply Mohawk Dark Walnut toner, and finish with several coat of clear satin lacquer. Where in the process would I use the Solarez grain sealer?
It would have to be before the stain and toner in that process. No way the stain or toner can penetrate through cured polyester resin and get to the wood. As for the lacquer, I can't say how it would bond to this product.
Hey Cris, Do I need a grain filler for alder? I'm using a primer, silver paint, candy red and then the clear.
No, but I would use it. Wood expands and contracts over time which causes the grain to telegraph through your primer, paint, and clear coat. Grain filler helps to prevent that. Even in Alder.
@@HighlineGuitars All right, will do, thanks for answering!!
I'm willing to try this product but does anyone have info about compatibility with other types of finishes? Nitro and 2K polyurethane primarily.
I have used Z-Poxy on several instruments over the past couple of years and although it says Z-Poxy doesn't shrink everywhere on the internet - it does. I have ash guitar body that was nice and level 1 month ago, and now the finish has sunken to the pores.
Did the Z-Poxy shrink or did the moisture content in the wood change?
@@HighlineGuitars That's a good question. I'm not sure, but I would say it didn't. Because that guitar has a poplar burl top and the finish over knots has also sunken.
Its so expensive to buy in the UK! .. £42 1 pint ;-(
If i was going to stain my wood, id stain first and THEN do grain filler right? It wouldnt stain right if you did grain filler first correct?
I would put down a wood sealer first, sand it back and then stain. That will ensure uniform absorption of the stain. Then I would apply another coat of the sealer to lock in the stain followed by the grain filler (clear of course) after the sealer has fully cured.
@@HighlineGuitars Ok thanks for the info!
Chris, I love your videos thank you for making them! I have a question, on a mahogany body where I want to use a cherry red stain, should I mix with this product or first stain and then grain fill? Thanks!
Stain then fill.
I would use a sealer after the stain. It will give you protection from washout and will give you a barrier when sanding the filler smooth.
Looking at them product you are using I can’t seem to find, where do you get this and a link to that product please.
Link is in the description.
@@HighlineGuitars Yes seen that and that is the product i have. But it is clear and not sure it is the same product you are using. It came in a plastic pint and not a quart can like you have.
Hello Chris, This is definitely one of the coolest video tips you have done so far. I have been following your work for the past 3 months, for I am building my 1st guitar Kit, and I don't want to mess it up. It's a Basswood body, with Maple top Les Paul style guitar. It also has a Maple Neck with ebony fret board. The body is cut out for H/P90/H, and A FR Tremolo Bridge. When I saw the kit on e-bay, It was a no brainer, For it Broke About every LP law in the book. I had to accept the challenge. That being said. I plan on painting a design over the maple top, and then applying a gloss finish over that. I'm thinking two coats of Solarez Grain Sealer. Level Sand. Then a thin coat of Solarez dual cure Polyester. Level sand. Then base coat of water-based Crystalac Black. Then do some vinyl tape Masking, followed by one coat of paint, with Createx Auto Bourne Air Brush Paint. Un-mask Vinyl. Then the clear Coat Finish with either Crystalac Brite Tone, Or Solarez Dual Cure Polyester On the Top? What do you recommend? The back of the guitar is Basswood. Most excellent tone wood it is. But, it is a softer wood. So I'm probably going to go with the Solarez Polyester On The Back. Question Is. Do you have any Suggestions for this process?
Are there any finishes/basecoats/topcoats that this isn’t compatible with?
Not that I know of, but testing is highly recommended.
Hello Chris, I am new to guitar finishing and your videos are great. My learning has been trial by fire, with some things working really well and then the next time I have an issue. I just finished an ash body bass (poly sealer, primer, hok Kandy basecoat and 4 coats of clear) and not knowing how porous ash is, I am at the very dilemma that you referenced. My finish has sucked into the body. How is the best way to get this finish stripped down to the point I can apply this product to prevent the ash texture from sucking the finish. Would I start sanding at 120? I am assuming I will have to get this back to bare wood to apply this grain filler. Or do you have any other tricks for a situation like this.
Sand with 120 to strip and follow with 150 and 220 to smooth. Then apply the filler.
My son and I are working on our first Telecaster build, using ash. I watched your video on Aqua Coat grain filler and then this one. Have you found that the Aqua Coat shrinks over time?
Yes, it does. All water-based products shrink. However, it usually stops after about two weeks depending on your climate. Also, the heat generated by machine buffing can cause shrinkage.
What if you're working in a shop with windows? Would it be okay to apply this as long as the sun was overhead the building (say noon?), or would you have to black out the windows?
Test on scrap to see what will happen. Even indirect UV light can trigger a premature cure.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks!
Thanks. I'll check it out. have you tried the Gork's stuff? Been hearing so much buzz about it I think I'll try it too... but would love to hear an expert's opinion like yours. My friend contacted them and they sent a free sample.
No, I haven't tried Gork. It's water-based so I know it's going to shrink no matter what they claim.
Can this be used after stain and a sealer coat? Or must it be applied to bare wood?
I'm wondering the same thing... Did you get an answer?
I had to laugh at 10:09. "So if you or someone you care about is experiencing embarrassing shrinkage....".
I’m curious about your opinion. I’ve seen elsewhere that people have suggested staining or finishing first and then putting on a clear grain filler. Let the grain soak up the finish first leaving less to fill then either leaving it as is to cure or putting another layer of finish. This product looks great and kind of defeats other fillers, but if finishing first and then filling would work better for regular fillers wouldn’t this work better as well?
It all depends on the outcome you want. If your primary concern is color, dye or stain first and follow up with the clear grain filler. If you want to pop the grain, fill it first with a dark-tinted grain filler, sand it back, and follow with the dye or stain.
@@HighlineGuitars yeah that makes sense. Aqua coat is tintable and I’ve seen some really nice work with silver grain and black finish. I’ll look to see if this stuff is tintable. I imagine it would be. Thanks for getting back to me and introducing me to this product.