The Mistake That Could Ruin Your Bike
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2024
- Discover the single oversight that could spell disaster for your bike's performance and longevity.
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Unveiling the critical yet often overlooked step in bicycle maintenance that could prevent costly damage and extend your bike's life. This video guides you through the essential cleaning techniques every cyclist needs to know, ensuring your ride remains in peak condition. Join us as we delve into practical, effective bike care strategies that safeguard your investment and enhance your cycling experience. - กีฬา
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wait, man. I like those glasses from the beginning. Are they Rx-friendly? What are they?
Hi Dustin, Question from a guy who doesn't live in the PNW. We get little rain where we live. But wife and I are going on an extended tour and we're wanting to mount fenders for the inevitable wet days we'll likely encounter at some point. Question is: plastic, or aluminum? It seems that some of the PNW'ers prefer aluminum, but maybe that's just my imagination. Plastic is less expensive and possibly a tad lighter. Anyway, any opinions you have would be welcomed. Thank you, Rick in CA.
@@rdawson808 I got them here: alnk.to/dAmy0BZ
@@mediumrick7667 Plastic is wobbly and less durable. Its not worth the effort unless is for very short preiods.
I use a battery powered leaf blower to dry my bikes instead of drying with a towel.
Got damnit that’s a brilliant idea!!
Stole my partners hair dryer for drying my bikes. FYI Use only on cool mode. Dont want to damage paint. Bought them a new one because I felt guilty.
oooh that's a hot tip!
Use one myself but wish I had bought a corded one for the greater power.
If u own a leaf blower you’re a part of the problem.
Two things I recommend:
1. Use a large hand pumped garden sprayer. It's much easier than screwing around with a hose and provides just the right amount of water.
2. Meguiars Car Wash. It's designed to cut road grime, a gallon of concentrate is dirt cheap, it's salt-free (unlike other bike cleaners) and it's fine on disc brakes.
And in the winter, fill the sprayer up inside with hot water so that your hands don’t freeze. Can even help them warm up nicely after a long ride.
@@ryanlovin9748 Yup, i actually started using it years ago for cleaning off my fatbike on winter rides. Now I just use it all the time.
Thank you so much. Condo living with no access to a hose forces answering questions like these and you just did.
Can confirm! Just bought a 5l garden sprayer a month ago and it works perfectly, also use hot water in it, gets off the dirt and oil a bit better like this.
Do you know what Meguiar's product you use? I checked their gold wash and the SDS lists sodium salts twice
A benefit of washing your bike after riding is that it will force you to take a closer look at the bike and identify any loose or damaged parts and fix them before the next ride.
I don't wanna sound like another wax evangelist, but here goes: Even on the worst Seattle days, all I have to do is a jet-mode spray down, then dry the chain. No grease to deal with so no degreaser or soap. When I started the wax thang a couple years ago it changed my maintenance game by 1,000,000.
1 Step Spray, so easy, done in 1 step. $10 for a can for an entire year. Problem solved.
I love my waxed chains. It's nice that I can accidentally touch the chain while on a ride and not ruin my clothes or have to waste water washing my hands.
@@jacobatherton8339 Buddy of mine has been going on about the wax chains since he started doing it last year. I'm pretty sure I'm going that route on my next chain.
Dealing with drive train grease is my ABSOLUTE LEAST favorite part of bike cleaning. When cleaning the frame, I'd always have to make sure that I don't touch the drive train and accidentally spread all that gunk everywhere. Or when degreasing the chain, I'd be extra careful to not get that stuff anywhere near the rim or break pads. With a waxed chain, I can just wipe down the entire bike all in one go.
Totally agree. Wax is great for all weather conditions.
I don't understand why you don't have a gazillion more subscribers and likes, your content is awesome, especially the way you present it, your creativity, your shots, your editing - thank you
This is the first video Ive watched and I wasnt planning on getting a laugh out of a bike cleaning video. In fact most are boring. Im subbing without even looking at his other videos
Working in a bike shop back in the 70s I was introduced to Pledge wax for wiping down the frames after bike cleaning. It makes future cleaning of the frame easier, basically carnuba wax in suspension. Still use it to this day.
in the wet, mount your belt driven internal gearhub bike. Let it sit in the rain for a while after your ride.
Old art teacher told us to put soap on our hands (no water) before drawing and it would make any pencil build-up come off easier. Tried this recently when doing some chain maintenance and found it worked pretty well too. Working at a restaurant I recently discovered the joys of having soap & a bio-degreaser in spray bottles and an industrial linen service that’s gonna take care of the towels. Just took the bike out back and washed it up as I cleaned off our kitchen mats too.
Your skin will hate it. Just use gloves.
Cleanliness is next to Klein-liness.........
Thanks Dustin. You obviously know what you are talking about after all those years of cleaning your bikes in the Portland winters!
Spray some silicone oil onto a towel and towel the dry bike( frame, rims, even rubber, everything except break rotors) after washing. The dirt gonna stuck to a tiny silicone oil film instead of paint. So, the cleaning gonna be easier and the paint will have a tiny protection from sticky sh** that can damage it after drying 😉
Thanks for the content, cheers from Ukraine 💙💛
I do this with WD40 on my fatbike for snow rides. It works very well.
Putting anything aside from soap on your tires is a recipe for disaster. Especially silicone spray....
This was the best bike washing video I've seen! It may not go over all the areas to get like really beginner videos, but it gets the practical bits and I picked up a handful of neat trucks to do too!
I use my air compressor to blow any water off tight places; shifters, chain, and derailleur. Don't forget to apply a bit of lube to any pivot points, derailleurs, and brakes if you're running rim brakes after thoroughly washing your steed.
Don't type anything specialised when searching online, firm brush is priced a bit differently to bicycle detail brush.
Simple Green...biodegradable too. Cuts grease....
Be careful with Dawn around your bearings. It will eat the grease out of wheel, bottom bracket and pivot bearings. I have had two sets of DT Swiss wheel bearings go bad under 100 miles due to the soap degreasing the bearings. One set in the freehub and the other in front wheel. Also, I never use a pressure washer so I am pretty sure it is the soap that is eating the grease.
Just get a new frame or spit shined you current ride? Ceramic coat that bad boy to help make cleaning a little easier and the water/mud rolls right off when your riding. Also for those with frames that have internal cabling. My frame has an access door under the BB. I taped a silca gel packet (keeps from it bouncing around in the frame) to the inside of the door to help with any moisture that sneaks into the frame from any of the random little holes that aren't completely sealed. Gravity pulls to the lowest point, i.e. below your BB. The more you know...
I make DIY Dawn Power Wash. 1/4 cup propanol, 1/2 cup dish soap (Dawn), 1-1/2 cups water. Mix and put in a pump spray, preferably one with a foaming option.
I get all my brushes at the $1 store, bucket even. Also the dish soap. $1 store bike cleaning for the win.
I've made two o-rings from the road tube and put it on the handlebars to hit both brake levers. It helps to stable the bike when you don't have a stand. Especially when you use high pressure.
Second tip for car washes or self wash machines. Use osmosis water for the last wash. It cleans all the foam and leaves no water marks. It's like showroom clean and no need to polish
Good demonstration with common sense. After watching a few recent TH-cam bike channels on chain waxing I chuckled at the Sage burning reference. I use a chain lube from a bottle with some wax in it. Shake it up and apply then ride.
Just had some PDW fenders delivered today. Hoping that gives me an extra ride or two between needing to clean off all the dust and grit. Crushed limestone gets EVERYWHERE when it’s wet, but I’m not giving up my favorite gravel route for anything!
I have those and no they don't, they just make the clean less work.
After washing I like to flip my bike upside down. Some frames will collect water inside and a quick flip will let that water drip out the seat-tube.
Don’t forget to shine it up with some Maxima SC1. Smells delightful too.
Put detergent in the attachment that attaches to a garden hose. It's usually filled with weedkiller / lawn feed
I use one of those gloves covered in microfibre tails , often sold for cleaning car wheels. One colour for drive train, the other for everything else. Super easy, gets into most of the nooks and crannies.
Second for the battery powered leaf blower. I've also installed a connex link so I can remove the chain without tools and clean it separately
I live in SoCal and ride mostly road so not a lot of heavy dirt but I still have extreme bike OCD so after every ride I wipe down the entire bike including the drivetrain and every 4-5 rides I’ll do a deep clean. I’ve been using the Silca drivetrain cleaner on the deep cleans which works great and also the Silca Synergetic chain oil.
True. However, if you’re cycling and subzero temperatures, it’s actually best to leave your bike in a frozen state for as long as possible rather than thawing and freezing, over and over.
I guess winter where you live means sloppy and melty.
The speed degreaser is a life saver!
- But if you have access sonic cleaning the chain and cassette. Air compressor on the chain to blow out all the moisture and then relube. Get this done a couple of times through the winter season and then once before summer and the bike will thank you no end!
- Keep close eye on the brake pads if your riding a lot in the gritty salty roads they can wear out much quicker in the winter than in the summer.
I use homemade dawn powerwash in a foaming spray bottle. Can also re-use the dawn powerwash bottle too with homemade stuff. Double bucket?! Mind blown, I must get one! Good brushes can't be recommended enough, that and some nice fluffy microfiber clothes. I just added a Grunge Brush to my shopping cart! Great vid!
Here's a chain cleaning method I got from a UCI mechanic several years ago: Morgan Blue chain cleaner and windex, 80/20 mix. Amazing
I want to try this! Very cool.
The Dawn Platinum Powerwash stuff is next level. The one with the special sprayer. Yes it's actually worth it (and cheaper than "bike" wash).
Pro tip: i bought a small pressurized car detail sprayer. Just add water and (my degreaser of choice) spray nine (nothing special or bike specific/expensive) its basically like a foam canon but for your bike. This foam really helps get into the nooks and cranys you just cant reach with a brush. Game changer.
Hmm, i noticed you're not overly cautious about spraying degreaser, or getting some splashes on things when scrubbing the chain. I was afraid that stuff might be a problem, but apparently not.
That stand looks super useful too.
Loam Foam is also amazing. Super foamy. My bike has been caked in mud and I've gotten it 90% clean just by spraying on Loam Foam and rinsing.
I've been riding in all kinds of snowy and rainy weather and leaving my bike unwashed for weeks or sometimes months, nothing horrible happened to my performance or gear, I replace my chain yearly anyway.
Putting the bike into a bathtub and trying to rinse it with the shower isn't a job I like to do every day.
park tools cm5.3. I really like this for scrubbing the chain. Mix up the degreaser of your choice, attach to the chain and backpedal for a while. All done.
MTB/EMTB cleaning tips
- Battery powered pressure washer
Take it with you to the trail, and a pale of water or use a stream or river near the car park. Rinse the bike immediately after the ride.
- Ceramic coat your frame.
Takes time to apply properly, but it'll be time gained in the long run.
- Wash your drive train first. Then the rest.
Those brushes made for cleaning the inside of bottles are perfect for cleaning the hard to reach part between the frame and crank/spindle.
what is the ratio for Dawn to water for the bike wash?
After degreasing and washing the drivetrain, I wipe it down. Then I spray the chain with WD40. The WD stands for water displacement. It gets rid of the water. I then wipe it down again and apply the chain lube. I started doing this a few years ago and the life of my chain, chainrings and cog sets has has increased 4X. Thanks for the Video! Always well done Dustin.
I’ve been doing the exact same thing with WD for years, got 25,000 miles out of my chain, I also use dry lube in all conditions, works great for me
my preferred chain lube is wax , but if i dont have the time i use shell tellus s2m 32 hydraulic oil wich is rated as suitable for use in lathe gear heads and as a way oil so it works really well at reducing friction but it tents do accumulate alot of dust , it penetrates very well literally only needing 1 drop per roller
Dawn detergent on my cassette, chain, and anything else that gets greasy. Gentle cleansing and an old T-shirt to dry the cassette and chain after.
But how do I clean the brushes so as to not distribute grease every time? Yes, even when using them with degreaser or dishwashing liquid, they always become super jucky really quick. Any solution for poor me?
Hi Dustin
For drying your bike after washing?
This is the daddy!
Metro vac master blaster sidekick.
The best!!!
You know how good the Gore shakedry jacket is ?
I would suggest you also need this in your life!
Check it out 👍🏻
I use my leaf blower to blow moisture out of the drive train. Works great, so would an air compressor.
Hot Tip - Put some Dawn in the kitchen too.
🤣😂 so wise
Wash your bike not your dishes
@@charliekrause4152you only really need to wash your dishes regularly in the winter though.
For the chain I use a dab of turpentine on a shop rag. I found that using degreaser, unless you very thoroughly rinse it off will just eat through whatever lube you apply
Just only once I postponed cleaning because it was freezing badly, just after riding through road salt.
It took only THREE DAYS before the chain turned brown and that brown oxidation got al over the bike and it gummed up everything like it was some sort of clay!
I had to buy a new chain.
Conclusion: procrastinating a bike clean is bad, but doing so after riding through road salt is fatal!
Use car cleaners, no need to buy overpriced bike specifics, dont use dish soap, it is not good for any rubber. Just buy APC for cars and dilute it 10% in pump sprayer, and some generic degreaser for drivetrain and thats it.
Just found your channel - fun. From memory Finish line lube have one of the worst ratings from Zero Friction - the best lubrication tester in the world. Took me years to find a few lubes that actually give me reasonable drive train life without waxing. Silca and Smoove are soooo much better.
What’s that jacket like? I’m looking for a decent bad weather jacket.
Sometimes you don't even need to wash it righ after the ride. Baby wipes are great for a soft, dry, maintanence cleaning, as long as the bike isn't too dirty. Gotta do it before the gunk dryes out tho.
Btw, loved your senior dog.
Once I used wipes to clean polished alu rims of vintage MTB and residual stuff left by wipes made shiny rims looking like a shit, kinda reacted. Worked OK with anodized rims but no, I better use damp cloth even if it's more work and water waste.
@@event4216 Just to be clear, I do not recommend using only baby wipes to clean any breaking surface (rims, discs, pads...). It requires rinsing and drying with cloth, unless you use brake specific cleaning product or isopropyl alcohool.
But you're right, polished parts usually requires greater care because of it's delicate finish I guess.
@@texugooooo That was my fault to cut corners, obviously. Now I know wipes help, but aren't last step.
Lots of people use hoses and swear it’s ok, but I’ve worked on many bikes that I’ve flipped around and water just slips out of all the nooks and crannies. That waters just sitting around your bearings and you’re throwing your money away.
Don’t use a hose,or if you’re gonna use some type water spray… just don’t aim them around where there’s bearings.
I personally just use a mixture of brushes and rags.
Also try and dry out the bike as best as possible and lube your chain and derailleur/rim brake pivot points. 👌🏻
I have the same basic process with simple green as bike cleaner and degreaser. I finish it off with a couple tender shots of boeshield T9 in the RD privates
unless you're using simple green extreme aircraft degreaser, the regular simple green will cause hydrogen embrittlement to your chain with catastrophic results. you could ask me how i know.
I am new here. Love the content! Is like watching Ferris Buller meet Cycling life.
I seen the wD40 come out and thought about the Muc off rotor covers for when washing your bike. WD40 loves to mix with the water and get all over your rotors when you spray your chain off and it splashes everywhere. Even the extra dirty chain lube gets all over the rotors when spraying the drivetrain off after a ride. Rear rotor anyways.
After using all these degreasers and spray rinse, won't this contaminate rotors and brake pads? Apart from that great vid, good hints on brushes!
Hey Dustin - where did you get your glasses - cool
I dont quite ride in such crazy weather, so all I do is wipedown with a damp rag of Simple Green, followed up with a damp rag of water. Drivetrain, spray down with simple green and wipe off! Easy
Very good ❤
Is that the Specialized S Works Power Saddle? Very nice! I got the poor mans version, the Power Expert.
The dish soap is designed to dissolve grease. Why the effectiveness of it is surprising? You have any idea on how to clean ebikes? They can freak out when all the connectors get wet. A friend just had his ebike start turning on and off from getting wet.
My compulsive nature loves this…. My approach….Simple Green diluted in a spray bottle. Works great. Re-lube with mixed Dumonde (70% light yellow road version and 30% heavy green mtb version) Yup compulsive😂, but works for me after years of trial and error. Ride.
I think we knew each other bitd. I am also friends with Travis and was wrenching then. Seeing that older photo of you jogged my mind.
Wait -what were the first pair of glasses you wore? Those aren’t Hamiltons are they?
This is Cleani g old skool, check what Josh Portner of Silca had to say in using Dwan, use the Silca stuff to be safe. And wax your chain, only boiling water over it and wax it again, done
One of the mechanics I know says i keep my bike to clean, WTF ?????? But, on the other hand I heard another mechanic with far more experience say “ check out your mechanics bike, especially the drive train, if it’s dirty find another mechanic “. I tend to agree with you and the second mechanic. Letting all,the gripunge settle into your drive train can’t be good.
use simple green for bike wash
Better to take the back wheel out when re-oiling the chain, unless you want oil drops all over your wheel, and you can re-start cleaning it. Taking the wheels out makes the bike cleaning a lot easier to reach all spot. Just use a chain-keeper to be able to clean the chain when the back-wheel is out (and to avoid scratching your frame). Yes, these steps do take a few extra second, but you will get your bike so much more spotless clean, with just the same effort.
Incredible glasses change
I use 1 step on my bike. It works well. Wipe after each ride. Stays clean. Wash and reapply more than other options but that’s ok.
Once you start waxing your chain, no more degreasing, so much cleaner and long chain life. Use super secret silca in between and a much better preforming drive train.
Let me be contrary here: My bikes are washed twice a year. Once after the worst of winter is gone, and the mudguards come off. Then in late autumn, just before they go to get serviced -- with mudguards going on right after service. Only the drive train is getting cleaned+lubed in between. F all the added effort, I got things to do.
Is that MashSF bar tape? :x
Laundry detergent is also a good soap for removing bike grime. Put it in a spray bottle and dilute it with water, the same way you are using Dawn. Laundry detergent probably costs 1/100th of what those specialized bike cleaning products costs. Also, coat the bike with Pledge furniture polish and buff it up when it is clean and dry. The product will make dirt slide off and protect the paint.
Great tips!
I dont even bother with spraying anything. I just rinse the bike with water, then use a bucket with a hot water and a dishsoap, apply it with two brushes (one for "clean" parts and one for chain, cassette etc.) and rinse it again. Done. And I ussually lube the chain the next day, I dont want to mix it with water residuals.
The dawn in the spray bottle, I assume you cut it with water? I didn't hear you say.
It is cut with water. I did forget to clarify. Good catch.
I absolutely hate having a dirty chain. Removing the factory grease from the chain makes it way easier to clean and attracts/holds way less dirt. Remove the chain and soak in degreaser of choice for as long as you can stand. Run a brush over it occasionally, bending the rollers in both directions to help work the grease out. I find engine degreaser works best. Not the best for the environment but you don't need that much and you will use way less product cleaning the drivetrain in the future. If you do this, you have to stay on top of lubing your chain.
The Park Cyclone chain cleaner filled with degreaser (I use Zep) is killer. 4 to 5 changes of the degreaser gets it REALLY CLEAN. Brushing it on cassette and chainrings too, then a rinse and the drivetrain is pristine. Air compressor after to blow off all the water = happy bike.
dont need fancy bike wash , it really is just degreaser , just make sure to dilute it apropriately , i havent washed my bike since september...
if i wash it it will reveal the scuffed up paint and i sure as hell will not be buying silicone spray just to shine up the paint , ill wait till i have a second bike and then redo the clearcoat on my current bike
This video was going great right up until the point when he lubed his chain with that Finish Line product. 🙈 The grime originally on the chain is prolly easier on the metal than that stuff.
I feel like Dr Bronner’s should get a shout out here as bike soap. Feels dadgrav bike appropriate.
Thank you Dustin! I always like your videos. One thing that would have made it more entertaining for me, would have been to see a ride before cleaning. I love a good @DustinKlein_ adventure!!! 😜
I feel it's a bit important to wipe off excess grease--at least to help the freshly greased chain from immediately caking up with dirt.
Okay, I never knew I needed a double bucket till now.
All great tips, but No on the wet lube! Use hot wax once a month
If you don't have a hose nearby, water bottles work as the poor man's pressure washer (at least for 2/3rds of the volume).
how about head and shoulders shampoo? Can we use shampoo? works great on hair...
Does anyone know what’s the bike on the thumbnail? Cheers!
I avoid washing the disc rotors because washing them makes the braking really loud - I learnt the hard way: I did the wash on Sunday (failed to test ride the bike - another lesson learnt) and commuted on Monday morning - I didn't apply brakes hard until far into the ride... and the sound was as loud as a car horn - a car actually hesitated because they thought another car had honked at them. 😆
Worse was that I go to one of the biggest train stations in Melbourne, Australia (Southern Cross) and there is a big descent with lots of morning commuters... But luckily for me, by that point in my commute (20km to the station), the contaminants had gone so I inadvertently saved myself the embarrassment of descending with loud disc rotors in front of hundreds of commuters... 🙈
are we not gonna talk about the brake situation of the bike in the thumbnail?
had to get my chain replaced and front n back derailleur because of my neglect. not proud of this 😑
Dawn, Finish Line, work-stand... 1 beer job.
Keep it clean player. 👌
Been a mechanic for 20 years... I wash my hands with Dawn. Never lava or other abrasive soaps.
Dawn on your bike is not cool. Some versions still use sodium hydroxide which etches aluminum bits. It degreases quite well and will wash out your bearings. The fact that mechanics use it is a dumb thing to say. Mechanics can be idiots too.
What Bike Fenders are you using?
3:25 Pro Tip: DO NOT USE DAWN. It has Sodium Chloride, also known as table salt (This is from the P&G literature). Unless you are ok with spraying your bike with salt.. maybe for "insurance" purposes..
Good to know.
I do rinse the bike off after I use the soap.
@@EverythingsBeenDone I used to use dawn back in my college student days. Primarily because I wasn't buying no stinkin "bike wash". Rusted through a lot of bolts, especially in hard to reach places, nooks and crannies, as well as headset bearings. Always blamed it on NYC eccessive salting of the roads.
Switched to a chemical guys automotive wash thinking it would be better as it is formulated to clean road contaminants from vehicles. Ended up being much worse and rusted through aluminum spoke nipples as well as bolts. Turns out some car soaps use a lot of salt as foaming agents.
Finish line might just be the best product as I haven't found any info that shows salts in their formula. Muc-Off also has salts.
I have read that in theory you could rinse your bike with a weak acidic solution (really diluted white vinegar) and neutralize the salts that are added to soaps. I've personally never tried it as I am too chicken shit to experiment with something like that.