Excellent! No nonsense, no goofiness, no overpowering and annoying background music, no stupid faces, no jokes and juvenile silliness-just "get down to business" with a professional presentation. First class!
@@AnnLippert1 Great! I'm glad you are humble enough to say you "learned a lot" from my comment. I cannot stand goofiness, silliness, annoying and overpowering background music, etc. like I wrote in my comment. I turn those kind of videos off long before they get a chance to annoy me any further. I hope you are inspired to professionalize your videos.
That was a perfect explanation! For those of us that build and work with our hands naturally, but lack expertise in other fields, this was really helpful, strait forward, and easy to understand. Thanks!
you are an outstanding(flawless) teacher of HVAC for youtube reference DIY'ers. thank you very much for the expert knowledge, tools & equipment required for installations. 👍 👍 way up.
Very well done and you’re the only one that I’ve seen that shows using a torque wrench on TH-cam.I installed a mini-split heat pump for my garage about a month ago and filmed it for TH-cam. Your methods are nearly identical where the flaring tool and torque wrench I used are from Hilmor and I used Nylog also. Great work as always and keep up the good work. 😀👍
I love this video and I've learned a lot. But may I suggest that when using torque wrench, tighten up to the point when you hear the click ONCE, and stop immediately. Anyway, thanks for making this.
@@donbewaro1828 I learned that lesson after ruining 2 flares. I was always a brazer. Manufacturers put max torque ratings in the installation manual for a reason I see. Lol
Yeah all those guys cranking down the flare connections are some HACKS. Can't tell you how many mini splits I've had to cut lineset and replace because somebody else didn't know what a torque wrench was
Great video! I used an automotive torque wrench with crowfoot. From what I read it's accurate. The YellowJacket flare tool is awesome... as a homeowner I still saved over $1,000 on install of my first unit after buying the tools including vac pump and micron gauge.
Do you remember what size crow's foot you used? Are the refrigeration nuts sized metric? Did your research say how the crow's foot should be oriented on the wrench, straight or at a 90? One youtuber said at 90 which seems to make sense.
@@Hubjeep Yeah it's 90 degrees, I've got an install coming up and have been researching. I couldn't pull the trigger on a $200-300 torque wrench for HVAC that I'm going to most likely only use once, maybe twice in my lifetime.
I always learn something new from you, Had never done a mini split(don't see them in my neck of the woods much). But when i have to do one i will at least have some ideal of what is going on, Thanks to you. I have said it a thousand times before, You sir are the best better than all rest.
Best AC training vids EVER! Thanks! And Yellow Jacket looks like they make GOOD stuff easy to use. I plan to use their tools from now on. Thanks again!
Hello, Greetings from MEXICO 🇲🇽, it is the best video I have seen doing this Process. These unions have always had problems due to leaks, but today I learned enough with you; I subscribed to your Channel, Thank you, Thank you very much. Hola, Saludos desde MÉXICO, es el mejor video que he visto haciendo este Proceso. Estás uniones siempre he tenido problemas por fugas, pero hoy Aprendí Bastante contigo; me suscribí a tu Canal, Gracias, Muchas Gracias.
Thank you for the great video instruction. I use a product that is inexpensive insurance. It is called Flaretite. I have no affiliation with Flaretite but highly believe in their product. Have had zero callbacks due to refrigerant loss. They are basically a gasket for flare connections. Even tried Flaretites on a poorly done flare and it sealed perfectly. They may send you some samples to try for yourself. I have shared some of my inventory with other HVAC Technicians and they are impressed. I very much enjoy this channel! Thanks again.
Thanks for the great lesson. When I installed a 2 way fridge in my camper, the line got a bad crimp in it (note to self-it would have been easier with an extra pair of hands...) I wanted to replace that section of line. It is not leaking now, but I don't want to take any chances with damage from travel vibration. You saved this carpenter's daughter $80 in labor at the RV dealership, plus gave me another DYI skill!
Thanks for these helpful videos on the mini splits. I have installed several of them at my home. I recommend you get a professional flare tool. I recently purchased a cps clutch type and it makes perfect flares. The first one I had, yellow jacket, would not flare 5/8" correctly after 3 tries and the refrigerant leaked out. Once I got that fixed it has been running perfect ever since (a Gree 12000 btu unit). Another unit leaked at the 1/4" flare connection (a Klimaire), costing $600 to fix. Another one of my units had electrical problems after only 1 month of operation, another Gree. Overall, they do kick butt once they are running properly.
Nice vid thx. You can open the 2 cap a little bit to align them with the valve so you can fit the wrench straight to hold the valve while tight the flare nut. Should test leak at 600 psi for 24 hours.
I often do a leak test at 300 to 400 psi with a digital gauge. The digital gauge will allow the tech to see a greater detail for pressure falling over a shorter amount of time. We used to use the compound for a longer period of time but no longer need to do this. Also after the vacuum is pulled and the tech moves to perform the standing vacuum test, this test will verify if everything is fine and that no moisture, air or leaks are present, thanks Quang!
Would you flare over braze solder the joint ? I’ve heard a lot of times flare fittings can have issues even if they’re done perfectly correct what is your take on this
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399 For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Yellow Jacket Torque Wrench- amzn.to/2NRR68Q Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool- amzn.to/2OBxGlM Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool with Set Depth- amzn.to/2QIKsQH Nylog- amzn.to/2MLJcch Ridgid Tubing Cutter- amzn.to/2DnjjR1 Wolverine Tube Reamer- amzn.to/2QGLyMV Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos amzn.to/2aenwTq Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos amzn.to/2aBumVI Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL Here is the link for the Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
Hi I have a mini split system that has to have the line kit replaced but all I see is 3/4” on one of the nuts and 7/16” on the other is that the tubing or the bit because I can’t find tubing that size
Glad to help! Did you check out our video on the mini-split vacuum procedure and breaking the vacuum with refrigerant from the bottle? Thanks! th-cam.com/video/k9uohbYDuRs/w-d-xo.html
It seems like every call I had to those type of units ended up being a leak at the flare. Sometimes they lose enough gas and get reset so many times that it takes the compressor out. One of the biggest names in my area used Leak-Lok on the flares.
At 1 min mark , what if the ends coming from the wall are female fittings and your adjoining line set is also female? I have this situation (I have a 50' line that I need to extend by 10'. Do the male ends that you need to add to the opposite end have to be silver soldered? Or can they be a flared fitting as well????? Thanks in advance.
Are refrigeration flare nuts sized metric? What are the sizes of the 3/8" and 1/2" line nuts? Can an automotive torque wrench with a crows foot work for torqueing?
Good tutorial, though I would recommend cleaning your flare surfaces after you flare, as the tool is burnishing the face you will have copper left on the face of the flare than can potentially be a leak source, and a source of contamination in the system. Cheers
well i instal one but i didn’t know that need to be tight with torque n i think i loos freon need to pump again we’ll it was my first installation split unit next time i do with torque 12 on small pipe 40 big got it thx
Great content. I religiously watched your process and the 10-Reasons why a mini-split flare may leak before buying all the equipment to do mine. I'm using the Navac NTF66 flaring tool which is very similar to the Yellow Jacket but it has a standoff that slides and gives you a reference for how far out the tubing should stick before you ratchet down and flare. Makes perfect flares every time. I'm using the cheaper CPS torque wrench which is fine for installing a couple units but setting the torque on it is goofy. If I were a full-time tech I'd buy the Yellow Jacket torque wrench set.
Should you seal the ends of white insulation, I’ve been hearing about a lot of problems with moisture interacting with insulation and causing pin holes in copper
Sometimes my 1/4 do a slip type of thing when I torque it. I have an electronic torque wrench. I set it to 14 but when it gets to 13 to 13.5 it goes back down to 12. Never gets higher
I am ( a DIYer) also installing a propane stove. I already ordered some of the tools you use; however, do you have a reference for the torque on 3/8 ID copper tubing flare? On other videos DIYers crank it as hard as they can. Thank you for your videos.
I know this is a mini-split, but can you use flare nuts on the 4 connections (2 at the condenser, 2 at the evaporator) of your standard 2 ton R410 unit you find in a lot of homes. Why is brazing so prolific and not this?
@@acservicetechchannel but can be used if you have the torque wrench to do it with ? I meana 410 ductless minis use them so I assume they can withstand the pressures?
Hey Craig, when using the yellow jacket flaring tool i sometimes struggle to get the depth just right. It seems to me that the depth needed to achieve a flare that backs up tight to the nut (as you like to make them) differs between different sizes of pipe. Is there some kind of a depth gauge or something to cut down on the guess work? Thanks
Great video, thanks indeed for the good work! I was wondering if it is ok to re-use flares on a copper line set for the second time, i.e. if I need to unscrew the line set to do some minor adjustments to my newly installed mini split system and then retighten the flares again? Is there a way to ensure the flares will hold for the second time, or is it advisable to always make new flares due to copper squishing onto brass cones, cold-working and hence missing some of its elasticity after having been used once? Any practical experience or guidelines would be highly appreciable. Thanks.
Is that 3/16” protrusion from the top of the forming surface or the bottom of the forming surface. The reason I ask is the instructions for my mini split calls for more like a 1/16”.
I have a question. I used my torque wrench on the 1/4 inch line and it wasn't sensitive enough at 12 lbs and it over torqued and smashed and broke the flare on the line. I'm concerned that some of the metal fell down into the line and I'm wondering if I can blow it out with a few blasts of filtered compressed air. I don't have a nitrogen set up. The lines are in a vertical position and can't be tilted down as in your example.
Hey Mike is this a new torque wrench or one that you have been using for a while. It seems that some new torque wrenches need to be used a little to wear them in. Seems odd but maybe that is the case. Was it a digital or manual one like in the video? If it was the small 1/4" line, I would really try to bend it downward and put a decent amount of pressure through the line and then tap it with a wrench along the length where you thing there is a piece of copper at. Maybe put a bolt in a vise and try using the torque wrench a bit to get it to wear in a bit or try a different brand. I am sorry to hear that! Let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks Mike!
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks for getting back to me Craig. Yeah it's new and it was the 1/4 inch line. It's a 1/2 inch drive click type torque wrench. Pretty big for the job but I will exercise it a bit before I try it again. As for the material in the line the, largest part of the smashed flare fell off outside the line. I'm just being cautious in case some material fell in the line. It's a 25 ft line and the problem occurred inside the house. Unfortunately the line exits the air handler high on the wall and proceeds straight down thru the floor. I'm thinking a quick blast of filtered compressed air would blow any small bits out. I do plan to vacuum test the line to remove moisture. Is introducing moisture what you're concerned about?
How can that flaring tool work, with it's off-center, wonky cone that moves as you turn it in?? It can't give a nice circular flare centred on the middle of the tube but will give a sort of oval shape. I can't see how that can make a proper flare?
It actually works better due to there being less surface contact while flaring to avoid scratches. It just rolls one part at a time and I can say that this makes the best flares out of any tool I use. Did you check out my video using 4 different flaring tools? I show close up images of the flares- th-cam.com/video/99Em47LdX7g/w-d-xo.html
I wanted to prepare and finalise my self install on my Mini Split System Installation (needing longer line set and additional freon put into the system by a HVAC Tech) awaiting the HVAC tech appointment next week. Would you happen to know if its ok to uncap my line set and install on one end to the (Head Unit ) and not finish the startup till the xtra freon is installed? Would there be any issue with existing moisture in the lines from sitting for a week or so?
So I bought a mini split and installed myself long story short I forgot to unhook the lineset from headunit when moving everything to diffrent location and lineset twisted the copper on the headunit right behind the brazed/soldered fitting. So if I just cut out the bad and flare it use a union to attach the line set to the head unit would it be ok? or does it need brazed/soldered fitting on the head unit? Thanks
You could use a flare on each side and a brass piece that has a thread head on both sides if that existed somewhere. Don't use a regular union though, only flares. Even if it is twisted, it may still be good depending on how bad, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel "You could use a flare on each side and a brass piece that has a thread head on both sides if that existed somewhere. " Is there an exact name for this, I'm looking for one. Thanks!
My question is how short can you cut the lines? My inside wall unit is going inside my garage and the outside unit is going outside in the same area so I really only need like 6 feet of line and I have 16. Thoughts?
Manufacturer of the mini specs a minimum lineset length for proper operation. Most are around 15ft with stock charge. I don't think 6ft will work. The minimum is there for a reason.
So after you pressure test the line set with nitrogen and it passed no leaks and it passed the vacuum test. After charge release and system running you get minor leaks. Why?
That is what happens to techs that do a pressure test with compound gauges for too short of a period of time and don't do a standing vacuum test. You would be surprised how many techs don't understand or do the standing vacuum test. Thats that issue. Also if a digital manifold is used for pressure testing then you can see the leak easier and in a shorter period of time, thanks Ron!
You will never go under 500 microns under vacuum even with the smallest leak and if there's a possibility to do it once u close ur manifold ports micron gauge will start to rise as soon as u do it.
Great video. I see you have links to just about everything. What about the fitting themselves. Suppose you want to add a connection point so the male and female ends? both 3/8 and 3/4 one end will have the flare the other weld on. thanks again. Im looking to add flare fittings to my unit some one cut off the flared ends. TIA -S
I see the copper tube was twisting when the flare nut was torquing down. This means the flare was turning and rubbing against each other, and you don't want that. Why not add some Blue Nylon to the back of the flare so the nut would not turn the tubing?
I am assuming that correct procedure when pulling a vacuum on a unit such as this mini-split with only one service port is to pull from just one side? Saw your video on vacuuming in which you highly recommended pulling from both sides but few minis have two service valves. Good series. Take care. Doug
It can be coiled up. You can cut it to size for a neater installation, but it is not necessary. The coil radius should not be less than about 8"/20cm (radius) if you're new to bending copper, and be very careful.
Hey there! Hoping to get a response regarding torque wrenches recently bought the blackmax digital wrench and Daikin call for 15.7NM on the 1/4 inch line for VRV. I'm finding it hard to read it on the screen because after finger tight it stops reading at about 12nm so I'm tightening a little more to approximately reach 15.7. Is this because the blackmax is a long wrench and you have more leverage with a smaller nut? Also only using nylog on my flaring cone not on the brass connection to avoid over torque as well. All other nut sizes don't have a problem at all it's a great tool and also have the yellow jacket digital wrench on the way too Hoping to find a solution!
Great Videos !!!!!!!! Would there be any advantages in trying to keep the line set as short as possible? I know looking through the Installation literature that there is a maximum but I know I’ve seen some installers leaving a coiled excess of line tucked in behind the outdoor unit. I just purchased a single zone unit and my vertical run might be no more than eight feet to the wall mounted air handler.
The mini split units will usually say a minimum and maximum. That must be a homeowner that didn't want to reflare the ends after cutting or something. I usually leave them short. My last one was only 4 or 5 ft and refrigerant didn't need to be recovered but check the literature, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks for the reply I just checked the Installation: Minimum Pipe Length is 10f/3m Maximum Pipe Length with no additional refrigeration is 25f/7.5m Total Maximum Pipe Length 98f/30m Unit is a Carrier Comfort Series Heat Pump 18 BTU
If ten foot is the minimum then 2 foot worth of refrigerant will need to be recovered after the system is broken with refrigerant. Make sure that you are EPA 608 certified before working with refrigerant, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC Thanks for the suggestion and reply. I think when everything is said and done the line set will be 10 ft or a bit more. I’m doing the rough in installation for everything and I’ve got a Red Seal HVAC friend to do the rest with the right tools.
Yes if it needs to get cut to length unless you are trying to avoid refrigerant recovery for a small amount of line set length but in a situation like this job it needed to be cut for sure. I saw you just signed up for the email list. Heads up! The E-Book is now for sale on the site and I will be sending an email to everyone on the updates list soon to let them know!
AC Service Tech LLC I should clarify a bit...assume you have 10 feet of lineset and it works out that this is pretty much the exact length you need. Should one cut and flare anyway which is basically not trusting the existing flare on the material or sho7ld you cut and flare?
If it fits and the flare is wide enough and shiny then the flare should seal but if it is off by 6 inches and it cant be bend into place then yes go ahead and cut the flare in, thanks!
Hello my question is the inside unit is going just above the outside unit so I really only need about 4-6’ of line and I have 16’.Can I just cut to 6’ reflair the ends and continue or will I have too much refrigerant? Its in my garage so it would be real easy to mount my inside unit run the lines down the 4-6’ in a slim duct and out to my unit with no big kinks or coils. Thoughts? Thanks!
I have a haunting question. How much line set can you remove (how many feet) before you have to worry about the amount of R410a in the system? I know Pioneer is pretty precise about how many OZs to have per running foot of line set. But is there any leeway? What if I want to cut off 4 feet from a 16' line set?
Excellent! No nonsense, no goofiness, no overpowering and annoying background music, no stupid faces, no jokes and juvenile silliness-just "get down to business" with a professional presentation. First class!
Uh oh, my videos are goofy. But I learned a lot from your comment too.
@@AnnLippert1 Great! I'm glad you are humble enough to say you "learned a lot" from my comment. I cannot stand goofiness, silliness, annoying and overpowering background music, etc. like I wrote in my comment. I turn those kind of videos off long before they get a chance to annoy me any further. I hope you are inspired to professionalize your videos.
That was a perfect explanation! For those of us that build and work with our hands naturally, but lack expertise in other fields, this was really helpful, strait forward, and easy to understand. Thanks!
you are an outstanding(flawless) teacher of HVAC for youtube reference DIY'ers. thank you very much for the expert knowledge, tools & equipment required for installations. 👍 👍 way up.
As long as anyone working on the systems are EPA 608 certified and have some experience already, thanks for the comment Melbourne e adams jr!
your are welcome.
@BIG SHAQ They work for anyone doing these systems with an ounce of common sense and ability. Great videos! Got my subscription for sure!
Outstanding video. Thanks
Howdy from the great Republic of Texas
Very well done and you’re the only one that I’ve seen that shows using a torque wrench on TH-cam.I installed a mini-split heat pump for my garage about a month ago and filmed it for TH-cam. Your methods are nearly identical where the flaring tool and torque wrench I used are from Hilmor and I used Nylog also. Great work as always and keep up the good work. 😀👍
Thank you very much Stuzman, I appreciate your comments!
I love this video and I've learned a lot. But may I suggest that when using torque wrench, tighten up to the point when you hear the click ONCE, and stop immediately. Anyway, thanks for making this.
@@donbewaro1828 I learned that lesson after ruining 2 flares. I was always a brazer. Manufacturers put max torque ratings in the installation manual for a reason I see. Lol
@@donbewaro1828 you can click it as many times as you want it won't change the torque significantly
Yeah all those guys cranking down the flare connections are some HACKS. Can't tell you how many mini splits I've had to cut lineset and replace because somebody else didn't know what a torque wrench was
Great video! I used an automotive torque wrench with crowfoot. From what I read it's accurate. The YellowJacket flare tool is awesome... as a homeowner I still saved over $1,000 on install of my first unit after buying the tools including vac pump and micron gauge.
Do you remember what size crow's foot you used? Are the refrigeration nuts sized metric? Did your research say how the crow's foot should be oriented on the wrench, straight or at a 90? One youtuber said at 90 which seems to make sense.
@@joebrewer5885 As I recall it was metric. I think 90* was what I did.
@@Hubjeep Yeah it's 90 degrees, I've got an install coming up and have been researching. I couldn't pull the trigger on a $200-300 torque wrench for HVAC that I'm going to most likely only use once, maybe twice in my lifetime.
I always learn something new from you, Had never done a mini split(don't see them in my neck of the woods much). But when i have to do one i will at least have some ideal of what is going on, Thanks to you. I have said it a thousand times before, You sir are the best better than all rest.
Thank you very much drifter436!
Best AC training vids EVER! Thanks! And Yellow Jacket looks like they make GOOD stuff easy to use. I plan to use their tools from now on. Thanks again!
Thanks Brian!
Im a JB guy.
Awesome video. Detailed install show-and-tell. Your channel is hands-down the most useful A/C service resource on the internet.
Thank you for your support!!
Excellent video ! Easy to follow. Wasn't sure I wanted to buy the tools to do this but after watching this, Im definitely doing it. Thanks !
WOW I LEARNED A LOT!! i had no idea how a torque wrench worked. im about to install a mini split so this is great info!!
1st month in hvac I appreciate this
Hello, Greetings from MEXICO 🇲🇽, it is the best video I have seen doing this Process. These unions have always had problems due to leaks, but today I learned enough with you; I subscribed to your Channel, Thank you, Thank you very much. Hola, Saludos desde MÉXICO, es el mejor video que he visto haciendo este Proceso. Estás uniones siempre he tenido problemas por fugas, pero hoy Aprendí Bastante contigo; me suscribí a tu Canal, Gracias, Muchas Gracias.
Great Video, My Uncle told me about it 40 years ago when he installed Central HVAC system. I really enjoy and learn alot on this channel.
Thank you for the great video instruction. I use a product that is inexpensive insurance. It is called Flaretite. I have no affiliation with Flaretite but highly believe in their product. Have had zero callbacks due to refrigerant loss. They are basically a gasket for flare connections. Even tried Flaretites on a poorly done flare and it sealed perfectly. They may send you some samples to try for yourself. I have shared some of my inventory with other HVAC Technicians and they are impressed.
I very much enjoy this channel! Thanks again.
Thanks for the great lesson. When I installed a 2 way fridge in my camper, the line got a bad crimp in it (note to self-it would have been easier with an extra pair of hands...) I wanted to replace that section of line. It is not leaking now, but I don't want to take any chances with damage from travel vibration. You saved this carpenter's daughter $80 in labor at the RV dealership, plus gave me another DYI skill!
Agreed. This is timely. Links to the tools also really helpful. Cheers.
Thanks Patrick!
This video saved me on a recent install. Thanks again!
Noviceelder Great video! I have crimp in propane line. your clear step by step will make the replacement much easier!
Thanks for these helpful videos on the mini splits. I have installed several of them at my home. I recommend you get a professional flare tool. I recently purchased a cps clutch type and it makes perfect flares. The first one I had, yellow jacket, would not flare 5/8" correctly after 3 tries and the refrigerant leaked out. Once I got that fixed it has been running perfect ever since (a Gree 12000 btu unit). Another unit leaked at the 1/4" flare connection (a Klimaire), costing $600 to fix. Another one of my units had electrical problems after only 1 month of operation, another Gree. Overall, they do kick butt once they are running properly.
You spent how much on tools? Far more than just getting a tradesmen in. I'll give you points for enthusiasm
dont blame the flaring tool, if you had been a little more clever you would have pressure tested
Wow brother I love that you work clean man. Also you invest in good tools. Work smarter not harder.
Great explanation, thanks teacher for sharing your knowledge. Hey guys he is really a good man.
Thank you very much Luis, that was very kind!
Great video with detailed explanation. Thanks for introducing proper tools and links to obtain them. This video has immensely helped . thanks.
Thanks a lot!
Nice vid thx. You can open the 2 cap a little bit to align them with the valve so you can fit the wrench straight to hold the valve while tight the flare nut. Should test leak at 600 psi for 24 hours.
I often do a leak test at 300 to 400 psi with a digital gauge. The digital gauge will allow the tech to see a greater detail for pressure falling over a shorter amount of time. We used to use the compound for a longer period of time but no longer need to do this. Also after the vacuum is pulled and the tech moves to perform the standing vacuum test, this test will verify if everything is fine and that no moisture, air or leaks are present, thanks Quang!
AC Service Tech LLC
Thx i just tried input my old day mitsubishi training.
Always the best instructional videos
Thank you. I always see vaulable lessons on your channel
Thanks a lot Vjn!
Your every tools is very comfortable
Would you flare over braze solder the joint ? I’ve heard a lot of times flare fittings can have issues even if they’re done perfectly correct what is your take on this
Great Instruction! Thanks ACST.
Thanks a lot Carlos!
Why can we use flare fittings with R410 mini splits but have to braze condensers?
It is the same gas and pipes at the same pressures.
Great Video
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book
Mini Split Book on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs
Mini Split Book on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides
Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ
Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Yellow Jacket Torque Wrench- amzn.to/2NRR68Q
Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool- amzn.to/2OBxGlM
Yellow Jacket Flaring Tool with Set Depth- amzn.to/2QIKsQH
Nylog- amzn.to/2MLJcch
Ridgid Tubing Cutter- amzn.to/2DnjjR1
Wolverine Tube Reamer- amzn.to/2QGLyMV
Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Here is the link for the Ratcheting Service Wrench amzn.to/2dGV4Nh
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc
Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm
Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
I need some tools.
Yellow jacket says 1mm or 3/64 and I think you said 3/16. I do like the idea of more contact of the flare.
The male part of the connection , how it deos attach to the pipe ?
Is it by soldering ( wellding ) ?
Hi, installing some units for my self, I don’t have a torque wrench, I wonder if I will guess it close enough? 😅
Hi I have a mini split system that has to have the line kit replaced but all I see is 3/4” on one of the nuts and 7/16” on the other is that the tubing or the bit because I can’t find tubing that size
Perfect video! 👏 thanks so much
Is it difficult to swap out a defective compressor. I have an 18k btu minisplit from pioneer.
Thanks for the free knowledge!
Glad to help! Did you check out our video on the mini-split vacuum procedure and breaking the vacuum with refrigerant from the bottle? Thanks! th-cam.com/video/k9uohbYDuRs/w-d-xo.html
Very good video I like to watch a pro on the job
Thanks Xitan M!
It seems like every call I had to those type of units ended up being a leak at the flare. Sometimes they lose enough gas and get reset so many times that it takes the compressor out. One of the biggest names in my area used Leak-Lok on the flares.
Thanks again for another great vid
Thanks JDT738126!
At 1 min mark , what if the ends coming from the wall are female fittings and your adjoining line set is also female? I have this situation (I have a 50' line that I need to extend by 10'. Do the male ends that you need to add to the opposite end have to be silver soldered? Or can they be a flared fitting as well????? Thanks in advance.
looking for VRF - Additional refrigerant charge estimation chart
Hi, Is it not better to have a brazing joints instead of flaring joints where possible?
Thanks for the class. Every video you upload is a masterpiece .
Thanks a lot Rafa!
Are refrigeration flare nuts sized metric? What are the sizes of the 3/8" and 1/2" line nuts? Can an automotive torque wrench with a crows foot work for torqueing?
Good tutorial, though I would recommend cleaning your flare surfaces after you flare, as the tool is burnishing the face you will have copper left on the face of the flare than can potentially be a leak source, and a source of contamination in the system. Cheers
Great Tip Vega!
So nicely done.
Thank you very much!
Hey there amazing video ..can you do a video on the yellow jacket Torque wrench how to adjust it and us it please sir ..
Great video, Craig. And your filming/editing was great, too. I was thinking about your set-up on several shots.
Thanks Jack! Yeah the install takes longer when trying to set up the camera at each spot, thanks
What diy brand do you recommend for us Novice to install....thanks for ur knowledge.
well i instal one but i didn’t know that need to be tight with torque n i think i loos freon need to pump again we’ll it was my first installation split unit next time i do with torque 12 on small pipe 40 big got it thx
Very well done. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
3/8 tubing how far sticking out and 5/8 tubing as well???
Good job mini split are the future thanks
Thanks ejohnfall!
You're very good. Thank you for your video.
Great content. I religiously watched your process and the 10-Reasons why a mini-split flare may leak before buying all the equipment to do mine. I'm using the Navac NTF66 flaring tool which is very similar to the Yellow Jacket but it has a standoff that slides and gives you a reference for how far out the tubing should stick before you ratchet down and flare. Makes perfect flares every time. I'm using the cheaper CPS torque wrench which is fine for installing a couple units but setting the torque on it is goofy. If I were a full-time tech I'd buy the Yellow Jacket torque wrench set.
Great video. I’m impressed of it. Very interesting process! Like it! Thank you!)
Thanks Tapch MC!
Should you seal the ends of white insulation, I’ve been hearing about a lot of problems with moisture interacting with insulation and causing pin holes in copper
Do you have a list of torque needed from 1/4 to 3/4 pipes?
Thanks
Sometimes my 1/4 do a slip type of thing when I torque it. I have an electronic torque wrench. I set it to 14 but when it gets to 13 to 13.5 it goes back down to 12. Never gets higher
When shortening mini split lines - (mine comes 16ft) how short can I make them ? Is there a minimum length they have to be?
Could be in the spec, normally 3m /10feet
Love the video and needless to say i don't get to impress. With hvac tech video but I can tell you know how to work.
Thanks Rubel!
I'm flaring a copper line with a male adapter with my propane stove in my should I be using threadlocker liquid anyting?
I am ( a DIYer) also installing a propane stove. I already ordered some of the tools you use; however, do you have a reference for the torque on 3/8 ID copper tubing flare? On other videos DIYers crank it as hard as they can.
Thank you for your videos.
For a gas line that only runs at 1/4 psi nat gas and 1/2 psi for lp not you dont add anything to the flare face or threads, thanks!
How do you feel about Spin Tools flaring drill bits?
Great video. Love the tools. Were can I find the same tools in this video? Thanks again
I know this is a mini-split, but can you use flare nuts on the 4 connections (2 at the condenser, 2 at the evaporator) of your standard 2 ton R410 unit you find in a lot of homes. Why is brazing so prolific and not this?
Brazing has less chance for leaks. Flares need to be tightened to manufacturer torque specifications, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel but can be used if you have the torque wrench to do it with ? I meana 410 ductless minis use them so I assume they can withstand the pressures?
Darrin Alcorn. You just gotta use what the manufacturer supplies. Braze for really old school units, and anything about 3/4+
Hey Craig, when using the yellow jacket flaring tool i sometimes struggle to get the depth just right. It seems to me that the depth needed to achieve a flare that backs up tight to the nut (as you like to make them) differs between different sizes of pipe. Is there some kind of a depth gauge or something to cut down on the guess work? Thanks
Found a husky flare tool identical to this with the clutch $39 has the eccentric mandrel as well
Sweet, thanks!
Which one is the gas line and which one is the liquid line? The smaller or the bigger one?
The larger one is the vapor and the small one is the liquid, thanks!
Great video, thanks indeed for the good work!
I was wondering if it is ok to re-use flares on a copper line set for the second time, i.e. if I need to unscrew the line set to do some minor adjustments to my newly installed mini split system and then retighten the flares again? Is there a way to ensure the flares will hold for the second time, or is it advisable to always make new flares due to copper squishing onto brass cones, cold-working and hence missing some of its elasticity after having been used once? Any practical experience or guidelines would be highly appreciable.
Thanks.
It should be ok to use again but add some refrigerant oil or nylog onto the flare seat, thanks!
I've heard they make flare gaskets for this reason
Ideally a new flare. But at a pinch reuse with Nylog
Very clear and helpful. Thanks.
Thanks dttub!
What's the best way to remove copper burrs which has fallen down into the valves ? This happened during removal of outdoor unit for relocation ??
The only way is to try to blow them out with nitrogen from the ports before the reinstallation, thanks!
Dont drop swarf down the lines.
Pumpdown to relocate unit
Is that 3/16” protrusion from the top of the forming surface or the bottom of the forming surface. The reason I ask is the instructions for my mini split calls for more like a 1/16”.
1/16 sounds better.
Or 1.5mm on average
Nathan, thanks, sounds right!
I have a question. I used my torque wrench on the 1/4 inch line and it wasn't sensitive enough at 12 lbs and it over torqued and smashed and broke the flare on the line. I'm concerned that some of the metal fell down into the line and I'm wondering if I can blow it out with a few blasts of filtered compressed air. I don't have a nitrogen set up. The lines are in a vertical position and can't be tilted down as in your example.
Hey Mike is this a new torque wrench or one that you have been using for a while. It seems that some new torque wrenches need to be used a little to wear them in. Seems odd but maybe that is the case. Was it a digital or manual one like in the video? If it was the small 1/4" line, I would really try to bend it downward and put a decent amount of pressure through the line and then tap it with a wrench along the length where you thing there is a piece of copper at. Maybe put a bolt in a vise and try using the torque wrench a bit to get it to wear in a bit or try a different brand. I am sorry to hear that! Let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks Mike!
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks for getting back to me Craig. Yeah it's new and it was the 1/4 inch line. It's a 1/2 inch drive click type torque wrench. Pretty big for the job but I will exercise it a bit before I try it again. As for the material in the line the, largest part of the smashed flare fell off outside the line. I'm just being cautious in case some material fell in the line. It's a 25 ft line and the problem occurred inside the house. Unfortunately the line exits the air handler high on the wall and proceeds straight down thru the floor. I'm thinking a quick blast of filtered compressed air would blow any small bits out. I do plan to vacuum test the line to remove moisture. Is introducing moisture what you're concerned about?
Yes moisture, thanks
Ha! 😂 That's why people use tradesmen. If nothing else, you can "feel" the right torque
How can that flaring tool work, with it's off-center, wonky cone that moves as you turn it in?? It can't give a nice circular flare centred on the middle of the tube but will give a sort of oval shape. I can't see how that can make a proper flare?
It actually works better due to there being less surface contact while flaring to avoid scratches. It just rolls one part at a time and I can say that this makes the best flares out of any tool I use. Did you check out my video using 4 different flaring tools? I show close up images of the flares- th-cam.com/video/99Em47LdX7g/w-d-xo.html
They actually work better than the old school ones. Plus clutching to avoid thinning the copper walls
Very good video.. I have a question where does it say the pressure pounds for the torquing.?.
It will always say that in the installation instructions of the model number you are working on, thanks Rene!
Usually on the tourqe wrench its self too.
I wanted to prepare and finalise my self install on my Mini Split System Installation (needing longer line set and additional freon put into the system by a HVAC Tech) awaiting the HVAC tech appointment next week. Would you happen to know if its ok to uncap my line set and install on one end to the (Head Unit ) and not finish the startup till the xtra freon is installed? Would there be any issue with existing moisture in the lines from sitting for a week or so?
As long as the lines are not just sitting open there won't be excessive moisture, thanks
What kind of wrench that you used? That clicking wrench
So I bought a mini split and installed myself long story short I forgot to unhook the lineset from headunit when moving everything to diffrent location and lineset twisted the copper on the headunit right behind the brazed/soldered fitting. So if I just cut out the bad and flare it use a union to attach the line set to the head unit would it be ok? or does it need brazed/soldered fitting on the head unit? Thanks
You could use a flare on each side and a brass piece that has a thread head on both sides if that existed somewhere. Don't use a regular union though, only flares. Even if it is twisted, it may still be good depending on how bad, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel "You could use a flare on each side and a brass piece that has a thread head on both sides if that existed somewhere. "
Is there an exact name for this, I'm looking for one. Thanks!
Your vedio is very good and useful
My question is how short can you cut the lines? My inside wall unit is going inside my garage and the outside unit is going outside in the same area so I really only need like 6 feet of line and I have 16.
Thoughts?
Manufacturer of the mini specs a minimum lineset length for proper operation. Most are around 15ft with stock charge.
I don't think 6ft will work. The minimum is there for a reason.
So after you pressure test the line set with nitrogen and it passed no leaks and it passed the vacuum test. After charge release and system running you get minor leaks. Why?
That is what happens to techs that do a pressure test with compound gauges for too short of a period of time and don't do a standing vacuum test. You would be surprised how many techs don't understand or do the standing vacuum test. Thats that issue. Also if a digital manifold is used for pressure testing then you can see the leak easier and in a shorter period of time, thanks Ron!
You will never go under 500 microns under vacuum even with the smallest leak and if there's a possibility to do it once u close ur manifold ports micron gauge will start to rise as soon as u do it.
Great video. I see you have links to just about everything. What about the fitting themselves. Suppose you want to add a connection point so the male and female ends? both 3/8 and 3/4 one end will have the flare the other weld on. thanks again. Im looking to add flare fittings to my unit some one cut off the flared ends. TIA -S
They can be brazed as long as you flow nitrogen through. You wouldn't want to braze in the flare connector, thanks
I see the copper tube was twisting when the flare nut was torquing down. This means the flare was turning and rubbing against each other, and you don't want that. Why not add some Blue Nylon to the back of the flare so the nut would not turn the tubing?
I am assuming that correct procedure when pulling a vacuum on a unit such as this mini-split with only one service port is to pull from just one side? Saw your video on vacuuming in which you highly recommended pulling from both sides but few minis have two service valves. Good series. Take care. Doug
I just did a vacuum procedure in a mini split unit as a recent video. Check out the channel home page or look up mini split vacuum, thanks!
Hi,
I got a 16' mini split lineset that came with my Pioneer unit, the excess is about 6'. Can it be coiled up or do I have to cut it to size?
It can be coiled up. You can cut it to size for a neater installation, but it is not necessary. The coil radius should not be less than about 8"/20cm (radius) if you're new to bending copper, and be very careful.
You are the best my friend
Glad to help Victor!
Hey there! Hoping to get a response regarding torque wrenches recently bought the blackmax digital wrench and Daikin call for 15.7NM on the 1/4 inch line for VRV. I'm finding it hard to read it on the screen because after finger tight it stops reading at about 12nm so I'm tightening a little more to approximately reach 15.7. Is this because the blackmax is a long wrench and you have more leverage with a smaller nut?
Also only using nylog on my flaring cone not on the brass connection to avoid over torque as well.
All other nut sizes don't have a problem at all it's a great tool and also have the yellow jacket digital wrench on the way too
Hoping to find a solution!
Can go up to 18nm, yes it's seems not much more than finger right.
6inch Crescent is good on 1/4.
Use 1 wrist/pound
don't you need to vacuum the pipes before oppening the valves ?
What brand adjustable wrench were you using? Proto?
Greatest job
Great Videos !!!!!!!!
Would there be any advantages in trying to keep the line set as short as possible?
I know looking through the Installation literature that there is a maximum but I know I’ve seen some installers leaving a coiled excess of line tucked in behind the outdoor unit.
I just purchased a single zone unit and my vertical run might be no more than eight feet to the wall mounted air handler.
The mini split units will usually say a minimum and maximum. That must be a homeowner that didn't want to reflare the ends after cutting or something. I usually leave them short. My last one was only 4 or 5 ft and refrigerant didn't need to be recovered but check the literature, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks for the reply
I just checked the Installation:
Minimum Pipe Length is 10f/3m
Maximum Pipe Length with no additional refrigeration is 25f/7.5m
Total Maximum Pipe Length 98f/30m
Unit is a Carrier Comfort Series Heat Pump 18 BTU
If ten foot is the minimum then 2 foot worth of refrigerant will need to be recovered after the system is broken with refrigerant. Make sure that you are EPA 608 certified before working with refrigerant, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC
Thanks for the suggestion and reply.
I think when everything is said and done the line set will be 10 ft or a bit more.
I’m doing the rough in installation for everything and I’ve got a Red Seal HVAC friend to do the rest with the right tools.
Oh ok good, then, thanks
Would you recommend cutting and flaring lineset if it comes pre-flared?
Yes if it needs to get cut to length unless you are trying to avoid refrigerant recovery for a small amount of line set length but in a situation like this job it needed to be cut for sure. I saw you just signed up for the email list. Heads up! The E-Book is now for sale on the site and I will be sending an email to everyone on the updates list soon to let them know!
AC Service Tech LLC
I should clarify a bit...assume you have 10 feet of lineset and it works out that this is pretty much the exact length you need. Should one cut and flare anyway which is basically not trusting the existing flare on the material or sho7ld you cut and flare?
If it fits and the flare is wide enough and shiny then the flare should seal but if it is off by 6 inches and it cant be bend into place then yes go ahead and cut the flare in, thanks!
Hello my question is the inside unit is going just above the outside unit so I really only need about 4-6’ of line and I have 16’.Can I just cut to 6’ reflair the ends and continue or will I have too much refrigerant?
Its in my garage so it would be real easy to mount my inside unit run the lines down the 4-6’ in a slim duct and out to my unit with no big kinks or coils. Thoughts?
Thanks!
Another excellent video!
Thanks Air Mechanical!
Thank you my friend
I get confused between the size of the line and the size of the screws mine say 3/4 and 7/16 I believe on the screw part
I have a haunting question. How much line set can you remove (how many feet) before you have to worry about the amount of R410a in the system? I know Pioneer is pretty precise about how many OZs to have per running foot of line set. But is there any leeway? What if I want to cut off 4 feet from a 16' line set?
Thank you! Great Video!
How did you bend the pipe?
Just by hand. Its very small so no tubing bend was needed. The outdoor hole in the wall was also olongated downward which made it easier, thanks!
What is the nylon