That is a awesome concept or idea and workflow. I, wonder could you make a macro to bring sketch. Then select your points to were you want the holes and just run the macro.. Using the bevel to start the screw is a smart suggestion. Great video and fore sure thumbs up. I already am subscribed so i will keep looking for new videos. Great Job and thank you for your time!
Great Video! I already tried this myself and the threads work very well! I used the same triangle construction geometry btw (Freecad Hey!)... As your video demonstrates, adding the threads is cumbersome in Freecad. Agree that it would be a nice feature to add natively!
I was thinking about doing the same thing when I saw his video. Except I was planning on making the holes into solids to use as a cutting tool and bring the step files in to whatever project I needed them in.
I thought about doing that too, which was what he did over on made with layers. But I figured it was easier to constrain a sketched geometry to where I want it then trying to transform another model into place for a cut.
bonjour merci pour ces infos , je suis un french freeCAD et la traduction verbal de google est tres bien continu a faire ainsi et la version anglais est faite sur google traduction 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Hello, thank you for this information, I am a French FreeCAD and the Google verbal translation is very good, continue to do so and the English version is done on Google Translate
Instead of mirroring the sketch in the sketcher and doing the constraints and second sketch with circle for taper you could have made one hole and then use mirror for the hole itself in Part Design.
Sure. You could do polar patterns on the whole operation for a circular application. There's many ways to get to the end result. I walk the newbies through the basics.
If you put it in a parametric model the solver breaks down and gives errors. Something is not exactly OK with the constrains. And I have found out that the problem is the triangle. It breaks down. Must be a bug.
Sketch flipping. When something moves the sketch past its boundaries parts of it will flip around. I'm playing around with the geometry to figure out how to lock parts of it to the interior origin point so they don't flip. It's those three arcs. When I figure it out, I'll upload version 3 with notes.
In the case of using the solid sleeve, the screw threads break those parameters apart and break them free from the infill in the model. By using the three bumps, the perimeters in those bumps get broken but they remain tied to the perimeters of the wall which remain engaged with the infill. So it's stronger.
@@loughkb So that's a 3D printing thing? I was thinking as if I took a solid block of plastic and machined it, it could never be stronger. I have no idea about 3D printing (obviously :) )
Yes. In FDM printing the model is sliced into a series of layers that are laid down by a bead of plastic. The interior of the model is usually filled with a framework rather than solid plastic to save material and time. The perimeters are made up of solid walls, two or three thick with the internal wall engaging with the infill.
I would estimate about the same amount of manual labor required in either case. And in the case of inserts there would also be additional cost. Unless you are making a part that will be printed multiple times, then the inserts approach would be a cumulatively greater amount of labor and cost. Additionally, making this part of the model means you don't have to rely on the consumer of the model to have threaded inserts on hand.
I think the use case is different. Self-tapping threads work fairly well if the fastener is screwed into place and never removed again. I would consider doing these self-tapping holes for one-time assembled parts. However, if the part to be fastened is something that's going to be repeatedly installed and removed like a cover for the box, then I would use heat-set inserts, as they can stand up to repeated assembly and disassembly.
Ok so I PROMISE I am not trying to be a negative Nancy here. I'm just addressing this from a technical approach. So did 'made with layers' come up with this idea of using internal bosses? The reason I ask is that regular metric screws aren't designed to be used this way. They're only supposed to be used with a threaded mate. So what I'm really wondering is how this works with thread rolling screws, which is the type of screw that is supposed to be used for this scenario.
In FDM 3D printing the object is made by laying down layers about 0.2 mm thick on average. Each layer has the geometry for that layer drawn out by a bead of melted plastic, and rather than wasting a lot of material on a solid interior, infill patterns are often used. So your part consists of exterior and interior walls usually two or three that are 0.2 mm thick and then an internal lattice or cubic or some other pattern of infill. The problem with tapping holes with threaded screws is the threads tear up those perimeters layers and break them away from the infill, that's the weak point. So adding these three bosses to engage the threads, preventing the threads from tearing up the perimeter walls between, maintains connection to the infill and is a stronger way of doing self-tapping holes with FDM 3D printed parts. Pardon my not understanding what you mean by thread rolling screws. I think of them as machine screws? But I'm not a machinist. Just a hobbyist.
@loughkb I'm not suggesting tapping holes. That would make no sense at all. I'm taking about using thread rolling screws designed specifically for plastic boss holes.
@loughkb I've used thread rolling screws in PLA hundreds of times. Design the screwhole diameter to be the screw OD × 1.25 and it works flawlessly. (Although that may vary slightly on other printers...not sure about that.)
Ok, I looked them up, didn't know the proper name, but familiar with the screws. I've used them also. Most hobby guys will have a good supply of machine screws on hand. These new hole types work really well with them. They hold about as well as the screws you're referring to. So it's really all down to the particular use case. If you have machine screws and want to use them, this hole type is probably the best choice.
@loughkb yeah fair enough. I think I'd like to see it tested though with screws designed for that purpose. Maybe that's something for me to take on "when I have the time." (Lol)
That's as handy as a pocket on a shirt, Kevin! Thanks for sharing this!
That is a awesome concept or idea and workflow. I, wonder could you make a macro to bring sketch. Then select your points to were you want the holes and just run the macro.. Using the bevel to start the screw is a smart suggestion. Great video and fore sure thumbs up. I already am subscribed so i will keep looking for new videos. Great Job and thank you for your time!
Thank you! I appreciate you and MangoJelly for y'alls work!
Great Video! I already tried this myself and the threads work very well! I used the same triangle construction geometry btw (Freecad Hey!)... As your video demonstrates, adding the threads is cumbersome in Freecad. Agree that it would be a nice feature to add natively!
I was thinking about doing the same thing when I saw his video. Except I was planning on making the holes into solids to use as a cutting tool and bring the step files in to whatever project I needed them in.
I thought about doing that too, which was what he did over on made with layers. But I figured it was easier to constrain a sketched geometry to where I want it then trying to transform another model into place for a cut.
I'm going to use this a lot. Very handy.
bonjour merci pour ces infos , je suis un french freeCAD et la traduction verbal de google est tres bien continu a faire ainsi et la version anglais est faite sur google traduction 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hello, thank you for this information, I am a French FreeCAD and the Google verbal translation is very good, continue to do so and the English version is done on Google Translate
Instead of mirroring the sketch in the sketcher and doing the constraints and second sketch with circle for taper you could have made one hole and then use mirror for the hole itself in Part Design.
Sure. You could do polar patterns on the whole operation for a circular application.
There's many ways to get to the end result. I walk the newbies through the basics.
What's the math to compute the bump radii from the hole radius?
Thanks. Let us know how the discussion with the FreeCAD developers goes.
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you put it in a parametric model the solver breaks down and gives errors. Something is not exactly OK with the constrains. And I have found out that the problem is the triangle. It breaks down. Must be a bug.
Sketch flipping. When something moves the sketch past its boundaries parts of it will flip around. I'm playing around with the geometry to figure out how to lock parts of it to the interior origin point so they don't flip. It's those three arcs. When I figure it out, I'll upload version 3 with notes.
Love the new intro. I don get it, how do 3 half cylinders make a stronger hole compared to a solid "sleeve"?
In the case of using the solid sleeve, the screw threads break those parameters apart and break them free from the infill in the model. By using the three bumps, the perimeters in those bumps get broken but they remain tied to the perimeters of the wall which remain engaged with the infill. So it's stronger.
@@loughkb So that's a 3D printing thing? I was thinking as if I took a solid block of plastic and machined it, it could never be stronger. I have no idea about 3D printing (obviously :) )
Yes. In FDM printing the model is sliced into a series of layers that are laid down by a bead of plastic. The interior of the model is usually filled with a framework rather than solid plastic to save material and time. The perimeters are made up of solid walls, two or three thick with the internal wall engaging with the infill.
Like it 👍
isn't it easier to install Threaded Inserts?
I would estimate about the same amount of manual labor required in either case. And in the case of inserts there would also be additional cost.
Unless you are making a part that will be printed multiple times, then the inserts approach would be a cumulatively greater amount of labor and cost.
Additionally, making this part of the model means you don't have to rely on the consumer of the model to have threaded inserts on hand.
I think the use case is different. Self-tapping threads work fairly well if the fastener is screwed into place and never removed again. I would consider doing these self-tapping holes for one-time assembled parts. However, if the part to be fastened is something that's going to be repeatedly installed and removed like a cover for the box, then I would use heat-set inserts, as they can stand up to repeated assembly and disassembly.
@somejoe7777 Yes, spot on.
@ but then one can use snap-on joints... if you want to never remove it again.
@@protektwar You can do whatever you like.
Ok so I PROMISE I am not trying to be a negative Nancy here. I'm just addressing this from a technical approach. So did 'made with layers' come up with this idea of using internal bosses? The reason I ask is that regular metric screws aren't designed to be used this way. They're only supposed to be used with a threaded mate. So what I'm really wondering is how this works with thread rolling screws, which is the type of screw that is supposed to be used for this scenario.
In FDM 3D printing the object is made by laying down layers about 0.2 mm thick on average. Each layer has the geometry for that layer drawn out by a bead of melted plastic, and rather than wasting a lot of material on a solid interior, infill patterns are often used. So your part consists of exterior and interior walls usually two or three that are 0.2 mm thick and then an internal lattice or cubic or some other pattern of infill. The problem with tapping holes with threaded screws is the threads tear up those perimeters layers and break them away from the infill, that's the weak point. So adding these three bosses to engage the threads, preventing the threads from tearing up the perimeter walls between, maintains connection to the infill and is a stronger way of doing self-tapping holes with FDM 3D printed parts. Pardon my not understanding what you mean by thread rolling screws. I think of them as machine screws? But I'm not a machinist. Just a hobbyist.
@loughkb I'm not suggesting tapping holes. That would make no sense at all. I'm taking about using thread rolling screws designed specifically for plastic boss holes.
@loughkb I've used thread rolling screws in PLA hundreds of times. Design the screwhole diameter to be the screw OD × 1.25 and it works flawlessly. (Although that may vary slightly on other printers...not sure about that.)
Ok, I looked them up, didn't know the proper name, but familiar with the screws. I've used them also. Most hobby guys will have a good supply of machine screws on hand. These new hole types work really well with them. They hold about as well as the screws you're referring to. So it's really all down to the particular use case. If you have machine screws and want to use them, this hole type is probably the best choice.
@loughkb yeah fair enough. I think I'd like to see it tested though with screws designed for that purpose. Maybe that's something for me to take on "when I have the time." (Lol)
Tip for morons (like myself): Don't right click "save link as" from the linked page - click on the file name and then "download raw file". 🙂
Or use "git clone" to put them all into a place where you keep libraries of FreeCAD stuff (~/lib/FreeCAD)