California getting credit, is like the “Telephone Game”, where the information is different than the start by the time it reaches you. I started in residential construction in 1995, in Central Florida. When anyone talked about framing a corner or wall lead the “California” way, it simply meant using a full length stud instead of scrap blocks in between the wall studs, when making a corner or wall lead, which is more expensive, hence the term, “California Corner”. It would be three solid studs (or more) married together to make the corner, versus using two solid studs and scrap blocks between them to make the corner. It might mean something else in other states, but that is what the meaning was here in Florida.
Great video Steve! Quick follow-up question. Would it also be an option to make the foundation, double mud sill, and wall sheathing be coplanar with one another? Assuming 2 x 6 wall framing, could this be done by having the bottom sill be 2 x 8 and the top mud sill be 2 x 6? In this approach, the entire assembly is coplanar.
what if you were to use rockwool insulation outside of the sheathing? would an extended mudsill still be advised? Seems there would be potential for moisture to collect on the corner of the zip wall and the extended mudsill. My current plan aligns the Zip System sheathing flush with the stem wall for a straightforward taped seal. However, I've been considering an extended mudsill, but I'm stuck on the idea that it could create a ledge where water could collect.
I'm thinking of doing the same thing -- holding the mud sill back 1-7/16 so the ZipR6 sheathing will be flush with the stem wall. The problem with the double sill plate is that it makes the whole assembly a little taller than a 9' sheet. Using a single mud sill, 9-1/2" rim board, bottom plate, 3/4" decking, 92-5/8" studs, and double top plate comes to 107-3/8".
@@ricdelmar4961the other problem with the double seal plate is that you now have two seams that water/wind/ect can penetrate. You just made a 1.5” gap in your weather barrier all the way around the house. And if you say well they will liquid flash that double base plate- then I ask why not liquid flash a single base plate.. would that not protect against pests and water?
I’m sure they’ll be taping along the bottom of the Zip, so any water running down its outside surface won’t hit wood until it reaches the treated mudsill. There might be even more tape (Siga?) to connect that to the concrete below. So everything should be good as long as all the tape sticks.
The bottom seal plate doesn't have a thermal break which transfers to the top seal plate which transfers to the subfloor which transfers to the interior space of the home.
There will always be some thermal bridging in a wood framed wall system, unless you go with true exterior insulation, outside the sheathing, which can be installed over everything. that would be my preference, but if that sill plate is the only thermal bridge you have, it's not worth worrying about.
@@dlg5485 This isn't just bridging, the entire edge of the bottom sill plate is outside which is not normal and serves no advantage. In fact the flaw is a thermal disadvantage that was purposely created from lack of knowledge on the subject.
@@Nova-m8d The advantage is that it protects the bottom edge of the zip-r from pests, which Steve explained in the video. An alternative would be to eliminate the extended sill plate and set the wall framing back the thickness of the zip-r. Then you can let the sheathing rest on the foundation and put 6 in tape over that seam, which offers the same protection against pests.
@@Nova-m8d Duh! This must be the first of Steve's videos you've ever watched. Obviously, that sill plate won't be exposed when it's complete. It will be taped or flashed, sealing it directly to the foundation. Steve has featured those sill details dozens of times on this channel.
Steve, Great job with this one !!!! I was ready for Big Red, and you go to the cat room............. Thank you for showing some good details !
California getting credit, is like the “Telephone Game”, where the information is different than the start by the time it reaches you.
I started in residential construction in 1995, in Central Florida. When anyone talked about framing a corner or wall lead the “California” way, it simply meant using a full length stud instead of scrap blocks in between the wall studs, when making a corner or wall lead, which is more expensive, hence the term, “California Corner”. It would be three solid studs (or more) married together to make the corner, versus using two solid studs and scrap blocks between them to make the corner.
It might mean something else in other states, but that is what the meaning was here in Florida.
what is that exposed horizontal slice i the Zip above the waterproofing about 5:50?
Great video Steve! Quick follow-up question. Would it also be an option to make the foundation, double mud sill, and wall sheathing be coplanar with one another? Assuming 2 x 6 wall framing, could this be done by having the bottom sill be 2 x 8 and the top mud sill be 2 x 6? In this approach, the entire assembly is coplanar.
I planning to do that on my build. I don't see a problem with it. Would love to hear Steves opinion
My cats approve of the cat room. Paws up.
what if you were to use rockwool insulation outside of the sheathing? would an extended mudsill still be advised? Seems there would be potential for moisture to collect on the corner of the zip wall and the extended mudsill. My current plan aligns the Zip System sheathing flush with the stem wall for a straightforward taped seal. However, I've been considering an extended mudsill, but I'm stuck on the idea that it could create a ledge where water could collect.
I'm thinking of doing the same thing -- holding the mud sill back 1-7/16 so the ZipR6 sheathing will be flush with the stem wall. The problem with the double sill plate is that it makes the whole assembly a little taller than a 9' sheet. Using a single mud sill, 9-1/2" rim board, bottom plate, 3/4" decking, 92-5/8" studs, and double top plate comes to 107-3/8".
@@ricdelmar4961the other problem with the double seal plate is that you now have two seams that water/wind/ect can penetrate. You just made a 1.5” gap in your weather barrier all the way around the house.
And if you say well they will liquid flash that double base plate- then I ask why not liquid flash a single base plate.. would that not protect against pests and water?
I’m sure they’ll be taping along the bottom of the Zip, so any water running down its outside surface won’t hit wood until it reaches the treated mudsill. There might be even more tape (Siga?) to connect that to the concrete below. So everything should be good as long as all the tape sticks.
Hellyeah Steven 💘🫡🙏🧨💯✌️
what was going on with the zip cut out around that board above the area where Steve comments on foundation waterproofing?
alliterations tend to stick. so i suggest keeping California Corner and introducing Missouri Middle.
I don't know about cat rooms but a "cat house" is WHOLE other story.....!
The bottom seal plate doesn't have a thermal break which transfers to the top seal plate which transfers to the subfloor which transfers to the interior space of the home.
There will always be some thermal bridging in a wood framed wall system, unless you go with true exterior insulation, outside the sheathing, which can be installed over everything. that would be my preference, but if that sill plate is the only thermal bridge you have, it's not worth worrying about.
@@dlg5485 This isn't just bridging, the entire edge of the bottom sill plate is outside which is not normal and serves no advantage. In fact the flaw is a thermal disadvantage that was purposely created from lack of knowledge on the subject.
@@Nova-m8d The advantage is that it protects the bottom edge of the zip-r from pests, which Steve explained in the video. An alternative would be to eliminate the extended sill plate and set the wall framing back the thickness of the zip-r. Then you can let the sheathing rest on the foundation and put 6 in tape over that seam, which offers the same protection against pests.
@@dlg5485 Wrong, wood is NOT an advantage from pests. Metal flashing protects a sill plate.
@@Nova-m8d Duh! This must be the first of Steve's videos you've ever watched. Obviously, that sill plate won't be exposed when it's complete. It will be taped or flashed, sealing it directly to the foundation. Steve has featured those sill details dozens of times on this channel.
Zip tape isn't a substitute for a termination bar on that exterior drainage mat.