Amazing! Not only do you share demonstrations of close up but pieces, but then real life examples (many of), then examples of the results, and extra comments and pictures of years later how the graft union heals. This is by far the best grafting video out there (runners up being all your other grafting videos). Thank you for your shared knowledge and time. You are appreciated.
Es un verdadero placer mirar sus injertos, muchas gracias por los videos. C'est un vrai plaisir voir vos greffes, merci beaucoup pour vos vidéos. It's a real pleasure to see your grafts, thank you very much for your videos.
Very beautifully done, exquisite hands do this fine work, thank you. i will try grafting 3 in one fig tree later this year as it is still cold and dormant period here.
I also prefer to graft my fig trees when they start to break dormancy and the weather starts to warm a bit (around March in my 9a zone). Using a healthy scion, done correctly and protected well, whip and tongue is my preferred method to graft fruit trees (as it develops a robust branch very quickly), although a bit more difficult to execute than other fruit types due to the hollow pit of most fig scions.
This video is a bit old (no voice over, yet, only hardcoded subtitles) but its quite detailed on that subject - th-cam.com/video/JjNYr_O5NzQ/w-d-xo.html. You can check also check some of my recent videos that explore that grafting technique, like this one - The 3 Best Grafting techniques for spring - th-cam.com/video/4p_DKv9lM2A/w-d-xo.html - min 2-10 are about the Modified Cleft Graft.
When I am grafting in the Spring there are always lots of beautiful little birds singing near by. If I had the time I would like very much to check each one and find out what they are but, unfortunately that has not been possible. Thanks for the info. If you want to try to find out a few more check my latest video (and other grafting videos I film around March/April), lots of different birds singing about. :-)
Although not ideal, I've had good success when the buds are waking up. At this stage, if you have any, wrap the buds with GENUINE parafilm or Buddy Tape to keep the moisture in. Otherwise, a light smear of wood glue on them will help. Either way, you've got nothing to lose. Why wait another year?
Hi, love your videos, thank you. I have a victorinox budding knife and wanted to add a fixed blade double bevel like yours. What is the brand and size you use?
What’s the the lowest temps you have started grafting in spring. I started outside with lows in the 40s and highs in the low 70. The trees are just starting to to swell and sap is flowing.
I usually wait until lowest temperatures are in the 50s with figs because i like the sap to be flowing well, as i don't like that they sit there for long periods without much happening. With apples and pears i might start with lower temperatures, as the scions are more resistant.
Wider wood (more than 1 inch in diameter) is difficult to graft. It lacks the flexibility needed for the whip and tongue technique). Also wider wood is older wood. Its always better to use pencil size, one year scions.
Happy coincidence, Frank. i have just finished a video on that subject - th-cam.com/video/7ToL5QHIDq4/w-d-xo.html. I use the same method to preserve my fig cuttings and fig scion wood. Remember that, even with that technique, scion wood will only last 3-4 months at most, in the fridge.
Google translated - Mi piace proteggere i miei innesti, da tutte le varietà, con un foglio di alluminio ogni volta che mi innesto un po 'più tardi in primavera e il sole inizia a riscaldarsi. Almeno fino a quando gli innesti non hanno preso. Credo che aiuti a evitare che gli innesti si secchino troppo.
They all work. I prefer Whip and Tongue or modified cleft as they start to grow quicker than the chip-budding option. But, when I have only one cutting of a precious variety and I want several grafts, I use this last technique.
Google translated - Благодарю. Извините, но я не смогу это сделать. Слишком много работы, поэтому я буду обмениваться отпрысками с несколькими друзьями.
thanks for your videos ! have you tried the plastic film used in kitchen instead of parafilm as I live in a place where it's difficult to find anything ?
Usually they last at least one year. But it really depends if it has some shade from leaves and if you are writing on a branch or on a pot. I use the same marker to write the varieties names in my pots and they are still there more than 3 years later. Nevertheless, they are not permanent (so i use photographs and take notes to be safe) and, if they were readily available here, i would use aluminium tags.
I have traded with friends, over the years. You can wrap cuttings in plastic film and send in a padded envelope. Beware of local restrictions on sending/receiving plant material though.
Good Afternoon Sacadura - Can I graft on a capri fig tree. I've a 10 year old male fig tree that doesn't produce edible figs. I am thinking of using this grafting technique to graft a productive fig on the Capri Fig tree. Will this technique produce edible figs?
Is it possible to do 2 types of grafts on single branch? I only have a limited supply of scion, planning to graft whip and tongue then chip bud the lower buds that are going to be removed by my first graft.
Its possible. The problem might be the development of the grafted chip buds as the whip and tongue on the branch tip might be more vigorous. You will have to control each graft growth with precision so they all develop well.
I usually graft each branch with 2 chips, if I have enough material. They tend to take both, but usually only one develops. If they both develop, I usually only let one per branch.
Hi. I suppose you meant that you have a Dauphine fig tree that you used as a rootstock and grafted with a Panaché variety, right? I have both varieties and they are quite nice figs.
I changed to doing a voiceover in my latest videos, as most viewers seem to prefer it (according to a poll i did). Nevertheless, i still add subtitles. You just have to turn them On, as they are not hardcoded, as i used to do.
Mr Sacadura, my 4 week old fig graft has small droplets I’d water/sweat showing under the parafilm (not at the grafting cut but on the scion itself). will that impact the graft in any way? When should I remove parafilm?
If the graft is in full sun, that's simply condensation. I wouldn't worry, unless its excessive. That's why I protect the grafts with Aluminium foil until they heal (otherwise the Parafilm will make a greenhouse effect and the graft can 'cook' under the sun). Usually the graft starts to show signs of growth after 3 to 5 weeks (the buds start to grow and break the Parafilm on their own). So there is no need to remove it for some time. If I believe its starting to affect the graft I would remove it (gently, as the graft union is very fragile, in the first few months).
Parafilm is biodegradable. As long as you stretch it when applying, it doesn't need to be removed, as it will not harm the plant growth (even the new buds will break it without problems).
JSacadura i grafted something last spring and the parafilm is still stuck on, didn’t degrade at all (i live in hot dry climate). maybe i just need to stretch it more. thank you.
Hello, when is the best time to graft, am in Miami Florida, where is hot almost all year? Figs here dont sleep until the end of december to the end of february. Thanks friend you make look easy!
Hi. The best time is when they start actively growing. I would wait until the end of February. I have grafted in October/November but just because i got my hands on some green cuttings and it was best to graft them than to risk losing them (they can root but i have more confidence grafting them). In this situation i prefer the chip-budding technique. The buds stay dormant all winter but wake up in the spring.
Y para que de mejor frutas achan le UN Poco de manura Al radedor de la mateta y echan le la Agua de la cascaras de banana's y ESO es Fortalezanta y ba a dar mas GRANDA'S Las Frutas gracias beandessones 🙏👍👍👍😍 😍😍😍😍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️♥️♥️❤️♥️♥️
Hi. It has its uses, mainly when grafting citrus trees with very young plants or branches and slightly different diameter scions. The multiple cambium contact points can really help in that situation. But, apart from those situations, its not a technique i use very often, as some of the others are simpler to execute and very effective.
If you mean if you can graft figs to other fruit trees the answer is no. They can only be grafted within the same genus Ficus (and the best compatibility is within other fig varieties of the species Ficus carica - the edible fig. I have several multi varieties fig trees (check the video on the subject on my channel). Fruit trees have to be compatible between each other to be grafted. For instance, you can graft a peach tree (genus Prunus) to other fruit trees from the same genus, like some plums, nectarines and apricots as they are all from the genus Prunus, although they can still have different levels of compatibility, that may affect productivity and longevity.
La cinta es Parafilm (también sirve Buddy Tape que es similar). Buscando en la web hay tiendas que lo venden (incluso en Ebay). Yo he comprado los ultimos rolos en Amazon.
I have the good fortune of having very good craftsman in our country (there's a small village in the north of Portugal, Trás-os-Montes region, village of Palaçoulo) which is famous for the knives they make and that sell them cheap. The one i'm using in the video, it's also handmade by craftsman Gilberto Ferreira from Aveleda. A similar one is old here - www.navalhasmirandesas.com/index.php/produtos/facas-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda/product/92-navalha-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda-de-enxertia-ref-ngfa011 Another website where these types of grafting knives are sold - www.navalhas.pt/ search word - enxertia
Those white markers are from Edding (a German company) - www.edding.com/products/edding-8055-outdoor-marker/ . I usually use the 8055, but sometimes i can only find the 751 or the 750 and these also do a good job. They are available in Europe. If you are located in the USA or elsewhere, you probably won't find them locally. Check this discussion - growingfruit.org/t/rooting-fig-cuttings-the-method-im-using-video/16111/16 - in some middle messages, we discuss some alternative brands.
Is it ok to use the black electric tape instead of parafilm? Also by putting aluminum foil over there is no need to put the glue over the raffia to cover all the cuts and avoid water and insects to penetrate? Thank you for the excellent videos
Hi. You can use black electric tape instead of parafilm but you can't cover all the cutting with it (namely the buds), only the whip and tongue grafting area. Using black electric tape you may not need to use raffia as the tape is strong enough to sustain the graft and keep the moisture away (the aluminium foil can let the water slip inside the graft). I used to graft with black electric tape or rafia and grafting sealant. Now, i prefer to use the raffia and parafilm for some fruit types, as the parafilm properties lead to greater success rates (you can cover all the cutting to avoid desiccation and the buds will break free with ease).
Good afternoon Dear J. Sakadura.s PMES 25, you must provide the exact address I hope for mutually beneficial cooperation! Waiting for your reply! Best regards, Vladimir.
It's a Portuguese handmade knife made by craftsman Gilberto Ferreira Aveleda. Here are some similar one's made by the same guy, minus the 'bump' used to lift the bark - www.navalhasmirandesas.com/index.php/produtos/facas-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda/product/92-navalha-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda-de-enxertia-ref-ngfa011
Almost all those grafts were made in early Spring (February-March). In those months the trees don't have an intense flow of sap yet. If they were made later April-May you have to make draining cuts so the excess sap doesn't drown the grafts.
When I graft 2 times in the same branch, I'm grafting the same variety with 2 different methods (whip and tongue at the tip and a chip at the base of the branch). Its just a way of using all the buds in the scion when you don't have enough different rootstocks.
Acho que seria boa politica colocar-se a melhor altura do ano para se fazer a enxertia ou os meses mais indicados. neste video a técnica da ráfia é ligeiramente diferente mas talvez mais simples: th-cam.com/video/FhZ_YyawORM/w-d-xo.html
Obrigado pelo comentário e pelo link, Paulo. Este vídeo tem quase um ano e tem várias coisas que teria mudado se o fizesse hoje. Nos últimos vídeos já não me esqueço de indicar a data em que estou a fazer os enxertos ou em que eles podem ser feitos , como neste último sobre a enxertia de coroa em Pereiras antigas - th-cam.com/video/b-iyXqG10YU/w-d-xo.html - min. 3.30 Quanto à ráfia, não é uma técnica. É um acessório utilizado para fixar o garfo ao porta-enxerto de modo a ajustar melhor as camadas de tecido cambial (o que promove a união). Eu estou a fazer um enxerto à inglesa complicada e o senhor que está a enxertar as vides no vídeo está a fazer um enxerto de fenda (como este - th-cam.com/video/JjNYr_O5NzQ/w-d-xo.html) . O enxerto à inglesa é realmente mais complicado mas resulta melhor em vários tipos de árvores de fruto, como as figueiras, por isso o uso muitas vezes, em vez do de fenda. Cumprimentos.
É o que dá a comunicação escrita, Paulo. É sempre mais difícil percebermos o que o outro diz e ocorrem mal-entendidos. Quando falou em técnica, pensei que estava a referir-se à técnica de enxerto e não à maneira de aplicar a ráfia. E também não percebi que a questão da altura do ano era uma pergunta concreta em relação às figueiras, em vez de uma chamada de atenção para não me esquecer de a indicar em vídeos futuros. Quanto ao primeiro ponto, a ráfia no enxerto de fenda é quase um pró-forma, podia perfeitamente não se colocar, já que o porta-enxerto faz pressão suficiente para que o garfo não saia do lugar. Noutros enxertos, a ráfia tem que ser mais apertada para assegurar a fixação e um bom contacto. Quanto à maneira de a prender no fim, existem várias opções (eu já usei várias, inclusivamente a que o senhor utiliza no vídeo) e concordo que a que estou a usar neste caso não é a mais simples, mas como dou duas voltas e regressa ao ponto de origem, habituei-me a usar um nó. A época para enxertar figueiras à inglesa vai de Fevereiro (quando as figueiras começam a sair da dormência) a fim de Abril. A partir daí existem outras técnicas que têm melhores resultados, como o chip (gema com madeira) ou a chapa. O chip, pode fazer-se até ao Outono, desde que se protejam bem (mas só rebentarão na próxima Primavera). Obrigado, mais uma vez, pelo comentário.
Thanks for the comment. Whip and Tongue is my highest percentage grafting method. If both scion and root stock are healthy it exceeds easily 90% success. Last year the odd one that failed, was after grafting has succeeded, in multi varieties trees, due to competition from other developing branches. In figs, vigorous varieties can take almost all the sap from the weaker branches and these will dry out. It's a delicate balance, achieving equal growth with several varieties in the same root stock, but it's lots of fun.
Amazing! Not only do you share demonstrations of close up but pieces, but then real life examples (many of), then examples of the results, and extra comments and pictures of years later how the graft union heals. This is by far the best grafting video out there (runners up being all your other grafting videos). Thank you for your shared knowledge and time. You are appreciated.
Üdvözöllek Magyarországról.
Köszönöm hogy megmuttad a füge oltását,szemzését.
Amazing you are the only one who shows the final results in grafting. With new buds and all. Thanks
You are good with your hands, you do such an amazing job. ! Great video demo. Thank you.
Es un verdadero placer mirar sus injertos, muchas gracias por los videos.
C'est un vrai plaisir voir vos greffes, merci beaucoup pour vos vidéos.
It's a real pleasure to see your grafts, thank you very much for your videos.
Amazing video one of the best I seen!!! Thank you!!!!
Very beautifully done, exquisite hands do this fine work, thank you. i will try grafting 3 in one fig tree later this year as it is still cold and dormant period here.
I also prefer to graft my fig trees when they start to break dormancy and the weather starts to warm a bit (around March in my 9a zone). Using a healthy scion, done correctly and protected well, whip and tongue is my preferred method to graft fruit trees (as it develops a robust branch very quickly), although a bit more difficult to execute than other fruit types due to the hollow pit of most fig scions.
@@JSacadura Thank you, will let you know if i am successful. :-)
Wonderful Video !
Πολύ κατατοπιστικό, τέλειο.!!!
Brilliant technique, excellent video
Amazing..love ur good work.plz tell me grafting season which month is good for it?
Absolute beauty really...no doubt..❤️❤️❤️🌱🌱🌱
great technique! thx for the video
Nice grafting video!!!!
Can you or anyone who knows what brand or what type of grafting knife showing in this video????
Thank you, Barry
Beautiful, thank you
The best ever wonderful thank you can concentrate on one thing only and than go and do it
Спасибо. СУПЕР!
Please make a detailed video on the modified cleft graft thanks
This video is a bit old (no voice over, yet, only hardcoded subtitles) but its quite detailed on that subject - th-cam.com/video/JjNYr_O5NzQ/w-d-xo.html. You can check also check some of my recent videos that explore that grafting technique, like this one - The 3 Best Grafting techniques for spring - th-cam.com/video/4p_DKv9lM2A/w-d-xo.html - min 2-10 are about the Modified Cleft Graft.
The bird signing 5:07 is an European Goldfinch
When I am grafting in the Spring there are always lots of beautiful little birds singing near by. If I had the time I would like very much to check each one and find out what they are but, unfortunately that has not been possible. Thanks for the info. If you want to try to find out a few more check my latest video (and other grafting videos I film around March/April), lots of different birds singing about. :-)
@@JSacadura
the
Great video.
Do I have to use dormant scions or is it ok when I cut the scions on the day when I'm grafting and the buds are already a bit developed?
Although not ideal, I've had good success when the buds are waking up. At this stage, if you have any, wrap the buds with GENUINE parafilm or Buddy Tape to keep the moisture in. Otherwise, a light smear of wood glue on them will help. Either way, you've got nothing to lose. Why wait another year?
Hi, love your videos, thank you.
I have a victorinox budding knife and wanted to add a fixed blade double bevel like yours. What is the brand and size you use?
Great video indeed!👏👏👏
What’s the the lowest temps you have started grafting in spring. I started outside with lows in the 40s and highs in the low 70. The trees are just starting to to swell and sap is flowing.
I usually wait until lowest temperatures are in the 50s with figs because i like the sap to be flowing well, as i don't like that they sit there for long periods without much happening. With apples and pears i might start with lower temperatures, as the scions are more resistant.
Great
You have a spirituel don on this mether. For grafting do you pay attantion on lunar calendar?
great video. up to what diameter can we use this method?
Wider wood (more than 1 inch in diameter) is difficult to graft. It lacks the flexibility needed for the whip and tongue technique). Also wider wood is older wood. Its always better to use pencil size, one year scions.
@@JSacadura Thank you Mr Sacadura, I admire your dexterity Many thanks for sharing.
Hello,can you please tell us the best way to preserve a scion wood ,to prepare
for next spring in fridge,regards frank
Happy coincidence, Frank. i have just finished a video on that subject - th-cam.com/video/7ToL5QHIDq4/w-d-xo.html. I use the same method to preserve my fig cuttings and fig scion wood. Remember that, even with that technique, scion wood will only last 3-4 months at most, in the fridge.
Thanks a lot , can you show a video how you tell if it’s a dormant bud , or not on fruit trees please regards frank
Super vidéo! Maintenant au travail je vais essayer.
great video and high qua;ity
Sig. Sacadura, il metodo con l'alluminio è buono anche con gli 'innesti di altre piante.??? 👍.
Google translated - Mi piace proteggere i miei innesti, da tutte le varietà, con un foglio di alluminio ogni volta che mi innesto un po 'più tardi in primavera e il sole inizia a riscaldarsi. Almeno fino a quando gli innesti non hanno preso. Credo che aiuti a evitare che gli innesti si secchino troppo.
Which grafting Technic to use on fig when they are Dormant ,Chip Budding, or Whip tongue or Cleft graft ?
Thanks
They all work. I prefer Whip and Tongue or modified cleft as they start to grow quicker than the chip-budding option. But, when I have only one cutting of a precious variety and I want several grafts, I use this last technique.
@@JSacadura thanks
Can this method be used in early spring when the buds have already sprouted? What is the best way to graft figs when they are actively growing
Do you have a grafting video for an OLDER fig tree. I want to reduce the height of the tree so can I graft onto the older trunk or older branches?
Добрый красота я недавно тоже привил около 10 сортов на одно растение. Может поменяемся сортами черенками!?! Удачи и спасибо за хорошее видео.
Google translated - Благодарю. Извините, но я не смогу это сделать. Слишком много работы, поэтому я буду обмениваться отпрысками с несколькими друзьями.
@@JSacadura спасибо за ответ но если вдруг появится минутка буду рад
Good.what's need dabul grafting
thanks for your videos ! have you tried the plastic film used in kitchen instead of parafilm as I live in a place where it's difficult to find anything ?
Excellent video. What time of year do you do your fig grafting?
I prefer to graft in early spring (in my zone around March is the best month to do it)
just wondering how long the white marker lasts for you for before it wears away?
Usually they last at least one year. But it really depends if it has some shade from leaves and if you are writing on a branch or on a pot.
I use the same marker to write the varieties names in my pots and they are still there more than 3 years later. Nevertheless, they are not permanent (so i use photographs and take notes to be safe) and, if they were readily available here, i would use aluminium tags.
Where do you find all your varieties? Great video!
I have traded with friends, over the years. You can wrap cuttings in plastic film and send in a padded envelope. Beware of local restrictions on sending/receiving plant material though.
I cant find that tape anywhere. And I'm interested in trying this method. Can you share with me where you got the tape? Brand or link please.
In Amazon search 'parafilm nursery grafting tape'. The one i am using is from Bemis (the green boxes with the printed grafts wrapped in the tape).
Good Afternoon Sacadura - Can I graft on a capri fig tree. I've a 10 year old male fig tree that doesn't produce edible figs. I am thinking of using this grafting technique to graft a productive fig on the Capri Fig tree. Will this technique produce edible figs?
Is it possible to do 2 types of grafts on single branch? I only have a limited supply of scion, planning to graft whip and tongue then chip bud the lower buds that are going to be removed by my first graft.
Its possible. The problem might be the development of the grafted chip buds as the whip and tongue on the branch tip might be more vigorous. You will have to control each graft growth with precision so they all develop well.
If my goal is to have at least one successful graft, this should be fine considering I only had a single branch each of a variety?
I usually graft each branch with 2 chips, if I have enough material. They tend to take both, but usually only one develops. If they both develop, I usually only let one per branch.
I am japanese fig fun.
I graft zebra sweet on dofin.
grafting is
interesting
Hi. I suppose you meant that you have a Dauphine fig tree that you used as a rootstock and grafted with a Panaché variety, right? I have both varieties and they are quite nice figs.
Nice it is a great video, be nice and continue like this way of showing techniques with subtitles!
I changed to doing a voiceover in my latest videos, as most viewers seem to prefer it (according to a poll i did). Nevertheless, i still add subtitles. You just have to turn them On, as they are not hardcoded, as i used to do.
Mr Sacadura, my 4 week old fig graft has small droplets I’d water/sweat showing under the parafilm (not at the grafting cut but on the scion itself). will that impact the graft in any way? When should I remove parafilm?
If the graft is in full sun, that's simply condensation. I wouldn't worry, unless its excessive. That's why I protect the grafts with Aluminium foil until they heal (otherwise the Parafilm will make a greenhouse effect and the graft can 'cook' under the sun). Usually the graft starts to show signs of growth after 3 to 5 weeks (the buds start to grow and break the Parafilm on their own). So there is no need to remove it for some time. If I believe its starting to affect the graft I would remove it (gently, as the graft union is very fragile, in the first few months).
Injerto ingles,1 de los mejores
how long should the parafilm be allowed to stay on if they don’t fall off on their own?
Parafilm is biodegradable. As long as you stretch it when applying, it doesn't need to be removed, as it will not harm the plant growth (even the new buds will break it without problems).
JSacadura i grafted something last spring and the parafilm is still stuck on, didn’t degrade at all (i live in hot dry climate). maybe i just need to stretch it more. thank you.
Very nice sir
Hi, Is it Ok to graft a woody scion to a green/greenish stem?
It has less chances of success. Your best bet is to graft the same type - woody on woody or green on green- or at least green on woody.
Hello, when is the best time to graft, am in Miami Florida, where is hot almost all year? Figs here dont sleep until the end of december to the end of february. Thanks friend you make look easy!
Hi. The best time is when they start actively growing. I would wait until the end of February. I have grafted in October/November but just because i got my hands on some green cuttings and it was best to graft them than to risk losing them (they can root but i have more confidence grafting them). In this situation i prefer the chip-budding technique. The buds stay dormant all winter but wake up in the spring.
Y para que de mejor frutas achan le UN Poco de manura Al radedor de la mateta y echan le la Agua de la cascaras de banana's y ESO es Fortalezanta y ba a dar mas GRANDA'S Las Frutas gracias beandessones 🙏👍👍👍😍 😍😍😍😍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️♥️♥️❤️♥️♥️
Love your videos! Thank you!
What are your thoughts on Z-Grafting? Do you use the technique?
Hi. It has its uses, mainly when grafting citrus trees with very young plants or branches and slightly different diameter scions. The multiple cambium contact points can really help in that situation. But, apart from those situations, its not a technique i use very often, as some of the others are simpler to execute and very effective.
can i graft a fig branch to other tree.
If you mean if you can graft figs to other fruit trees the answer is no. They can only be grafted within the same genus Ficus (and the best compatibility is within other fig varieties of the species Ficus carica - the edible fig. I have several multi varieties fig trees (check the video on the subject on my channel). Fruit trees have to be compatible between each other to be grafted. For instance, you can graft a peach tree (genus Prunus) to other fruit trees from the same genus, like some plums, nectarines and apricots as they are all from the genus Prunus, although they can still have different levels of compatibility, that may affect productivity and longevity.
Donde compras los rollos de cinta y como se llama.??
La cinta es Parafilm (también sirve Buddy Tape que es similar). Buscando en la web hay tiendas que lo venden (incluso en Ebay). Yo he comprado los ultimos rolos en Amazon.
Com licença, o microfilm pra guardar comida no freezer, presta?
What grafting knife is that?
I have the good fortune of having very good craftsman in our country (there's a small village in the north of Portugal, Trás-os-Montes region, village of Palaçoulo) which is famous for the knives they make and that sell them cheap. The one i'm using in the video, it's also handmade by craftsman Gilberto Ferreira from Aveleda. A similar one is old here - www.navalhasmirandesas.com/index.php/produtos/facas-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda/product/92-navalha-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda-de-enxertia-ref-ngfa011
Another website where these types of grafting knives are sold - www.navalhas.pt/
search word - enxertia
What’s the name of the white marker?
Those white markers are from Edding (a German company) - www.edding.com/products/edding-8055-outdoor-marker/ . I usually use the 8055, but sometimes i can only find the 751 or the 750 and these also do a good job. They are available in Europe. If you are located in the USA or elsewhere, you probably won't find them locally. Check this discussion - growingfruit.org/t/rooting-fig-cuttings-the-method-im-using-video/16111/16 - in some middle messages, we discuss some alternative brands.
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Yè..!merci 😊
@+^^
Is it ok to use the black electric tape instead of parafilm? Also by putting aluminum foil over there is no need to put the glue over the raffia to cover all the cuts and avoid water and insects to penetrate? Thank you for the excellent videos
Hi. You can use black electric tape instead of parafilm but you can't cover all the cutting with it (namely the buds), only the whip and tongue grafting area.
Using black electric tape you may not need to use raffia as the tape is strong enough to sustain the graft and keep the moisture away (the aluminium foil can let the water slip inside the graft). I used to graft with black electric tape or rafia and grafting sealant. Now, i prefer to use the raffia and parafilm for some fruit types, as the parafilm properties lead to greater success rates (you can cover all the cutting to avoid desiccation and the buds will break free with ease).
@@JSacadura great thank you so much!
Nice
12:30 i cut myself a couple times when i was doing that... 😞
Good afternoon Dear J. Sakadura.s
PMES 25, you must provide the exact address
I hope for mutually beneficial cooperation!
Waiting for your reply!
Best regards, Vladimir.
Your knife is a old bear ?!
It's a Portuguese handmade knife made by craftsman Gilberto Ferreira Aveleda. Here are some similar one's made by the same guy, minus the 'bump' used to lift the bark - www.navalhasmirandesas.com/index.php/produtos/facas-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda/product/92-navalha-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda-de-enxertia-ref-ngfa011
i noticed no sap came out from the tree; does that it is still dormant?
Almost all those grafts were made in early Spring (February-March). In those months the trees don't have an intense flow of sap yet. If they were made later April-May you have to make draining cuts so the excess sap doesn't drown the grafts.
What’s was your low temps?
Why use two time grafting in one branch, is this same fig?
When I graft 2 times in the same branch, I'm grafting the same variety with 2 different methods (whip and tongue at the tip and a chip at the base of the branch). Its just a way of using all the buds in the scion when you don't have enough different rootstocks.
Acho que seria boa politica colocar-se a melhor altura do ano para se fazer a enxertia ou os meses mais indicados. neste video a técnica da ráfia é ligeiramente diferente mas talvez mais simples: th-cam.com/video/FhZ_YyawORM/w-d-xo.html
Obrigado pelo comentário e pelo link, Paulo. Este vídeo tem quase um ano e tem várias coisas que teria mudado se o fizesse hoje. Nos últimos vídeos já não me esqueço de indicar a data em que estou a fazer os enxertos ou em que eles podem ser feitos , como neste último sobre a enxertia de coroa em Pereiras antigas - th-cam.com/video/b-iyXqG10YU/w-d-xo.html - min. 3.30
Quanto à ráfia, não é uma técnica. É um acessório utilizado para fixar o garfo ao porta-enxerto de modo a ajustar melhor as camadas de tecido cambial (o que promove a união). Eu estou a fazer um enxerto à inglesa complicada e o senhor que está a enxertar as vides no vídeo está a fazer um enxerto de fenda (como este - th-cam.com/video/JjNYr_O5NzQ/w-d-xo.html) . O enxerto à inglesa é realmente mais complicado mas resulta melhor em vários tipos de árvores de fruto, como as figueiras, por isso o uso muitas vezes, em vez do de fenda. Cumprimentos.
@@JSacadura e a melhor altura para enxertar figueira é ? o que lhe queria mostrar na rafia é a maneira como é presa no fim só isso.
É o que dá a comunicação escrita, Paulo. É sempre mais difícil percebermos o que o outro diz e ocorrem mal-entendidos. Quando falou em técnica, pensei que estava a referir-se à técnica de enxerto e não à maneira de aplicar a ráfia. E também não percebi que a questão da altura do ano era uma pergunta concreta em relação às figueiras, em vez de uma chamada de atenção para não me esquecer de a indicar em vídeos futuros.
Quanto ao primeiro ponto, a ráfia no enxerto de fenda é quase um pró-forma, podia perfeitamente não se colocar, já que o porta-enxerto faz pressão suficiente para que o garfo não saia do lugar. Noutros enxertos, a ráfia tem que ser mais apertada para assegurar a fixação e um bom contacto. Quanto à maneira de a prender no fim, existem várias opções (eu já usei várias, inclusivamente a que o senhor utiliza no vídeo) e concordo que a que estou a usar neste caso não é a mais simples, mas como dou duas voltas e regressa ao ponto de origem, habituei-me a usar um nó.
A época para enxertar figueiras à inglesa vai de Fevereiro (quando as figueiras começam a sair da dormência) a fim de Abril. A partir daí existem outras técnicas que têm melhores resultados, como o chip (gema com madeira) ou a chapa. O chip, pode fazer-se até ao Outono, desde que se protejam bem (mas só rebentarão na próxima Primavera). Obrigado, mais uma vez, pelo comentário.
i use same method i did 30 and 29 was succes
Thanks for the comment. Whip and Tongue is my highest percentage grafting method. If both scion and root stock are healthy it exceeds easily 90% success. Last year the odd one that failed, was after grafting has succeeded, in multi varieties trees, due to competition from other developing branches. In figs, vigorous varieties can take almost all the sap from the weaker branches and these will dry out. It's a delicate balance, achieving equal growth with several varieties in the same root stock, but it's lots of fun.
Deft