Mr. Michael, today I had my first crazy boat rescue. Left my house yesterday with my car loaded with tools and accessories and made it home today after 1100 miles. Did the lights of the trailer at the harbor freight parking lot and replaced a wheel at Walmart parking lot with a brand new one that I bought there. Was a nice adventure but my family is pretty excited about our new boat. Thanks to you no issues at all, all the stops was planned and I made it easily.
Haaha! Ditto dun-it on the Harbor Freight parkin lot light kit replacement! 20 bucks, a pack of zip-ties, a half hour, three or four cuss words, and a cup of coffee took me all the way! LOL!
I have a 14 ft PolarKraft and 20 HP Mercury that my dad bought new in the summer of 1975. As if I don't already have enough projects, I'm starting to plan out my restoration strategy. I don't need either, but Dad and I had some good times in that boat. Along with all the fishing and boat rides, I learned to ski behind it. It deserves to run again. The boat needs a new transom and some cosmetic work. I too looked into Coosa board. I also found replacement transom board for around $100. That's not bad, but I may just end up using exterior as you did. I'm not sure about the motor. On one end, it'll need a carburetor rebuild and new impeller. Easy enough. The 49 year old power pack has literally melted over time. A compression check will tell me it the motor is going to be anything more than a display piece.
I did my transom the exact same way 2 months ago. I also used SS bolts, washers and nuts. I used 5200 to attach it to my aluminum as well as a below water line marine sealer on all the hardware. It turned out great, very please. I also scuffed up the resin on the back to help adhesion to the aluminum. Also added a transom saver made out of 1/8" aluminum and made a rain cap out of some aluminum C channel. First boat owner and makes me feel good that did it the same way as someone as experienced as yourself.
Thanks a lot Michael, I really enjoy and look forward to your videos. Your approach to your projects are practical and easy to understand. Thanks again
Last year I did the exact same transom replacement on a ‘87 Alumicraft V 14. Mine didn’t look too bad. That was before I started to pull it apart. Badly rotted, it was 1 1/2” plywood. I got lucky ,a local marine dealer purchased 1 1/2” plywood 4x8 transom blanks from a fiberglass boat builder that went out of business for $100. Sealed it up with oil based paint. Worked good. Before that I tried the plywood method but couldn’t get a decent bond. It was expensive, probably $250 when all said and done.
43 degrees and no snow? man iam doing something wrong . LOL great video i did the same thing on a 18 ft john boat that i picked up just outside cedar rapids .great video lookking forward seeing the video on the jack plate
Good Job, do want to clarify the difference between marine grade and external plywood is not only glue but marine grade can only have a certain amount of voids. The really high grade marine ply will have no voids at all according to my sources at the plywood mills I do work for here in Oregon.
Old woodworkers trick. Sprinkle a little table salt on your glue surfaces before putting them together. It will provide a little grit to keep things from sliding but will not weaken the bond.
As soon as the snow goes away, I'm replacing the wood on my 40 years old 16 footer's transom. Your thorough input and suggestions will be put to good use. I'll be using brass hardware though as I understand it is more compatible with aluminum than stainless and add cap-nuts on protruding threads for a factory finish look. And a Happy New Year to you Michael !
Great job I bought a 14ft v bottom boat two years ago had screw holes from a transducer from fishfinder I use Bondo to seal all the holes don’t leak a drop I got half a sheet of marine plywood I might do that to my little boat
Hello hi just wanna say that I love your videos you are so cozy, you are reminding me about myself you’re just a littel older. :-) so you have a fan in Denmark. I also make my own videos with the same contents as you do. Keep up the good work my friend
gday mate the glues as far as i understand it here anyway are the same as marine ply for exterior or what we call structural ply ,the difference that i am lead to believe is that one has a select veneer for asthetic purposes were as your structural is just that for structural purposes no fancy stuff knot holes ect. I have done a couple of transoms and i have never used marine ply . What i did do was i laminated the two pieces together with a layer of glass in between , after i used a bucket load of brass screws to hold it together while the resin and glass went off then rounder all the edges over with a trimmer blade half round ,a quick refit to ensure all is still well then completely laminated in glass so the transom to waterproof it , in reality it was overkill but it will last a life time of the boat .
👍👍Real good tips on sealing and replacing transom the spray paint through holes to know where to screw sheets while gluing together 👍👍👍. I don’t use marine plywood it weighs more cost more and you still have to seal it. When hammering out dent from whatever they backed into . Just one concerned I saw is the seam where transom meets bottom looked cranked. Really interested in how you gonna build you Jack plate . One more ? Are you gonna build you a new trailer or customize one from another boat. Transom looks great. Looked like on old transom they notched it so cap would fit 👍👍👍 music drone 👍👍 As always Sir thanks for the ride along. Keep’em coming
Michael, Great video, I think it's great you were able to use some wood at your shop. I also like you using the fiber glass resin to seal the boards. was it cheap to use the resin instead of marine spar varnish? It looks good and I agree it will last a long time. Any more information on the 20 HP Mercury outboard and the flywheel? Thanks, Tim
I am in the same situation with my transom but worse the wood had rotted and the previous owner tightened the lower bolts that hold the motor so tight is pulled in the U channel that supports the lower transom not sure i can set it back correctly unless i cut it out and tig in another piece of U channel, issue is no room to work
im wondering what you got in mind for the jack plate. personally i would have had the jackplate so i could use the same bolts to mount it. but thats me . its your channel. thanx for bringing us along.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina, Yeah man! Had one and liked it quite a bit. Had puke-green fine metal-flake upholstery. Had a 135 Chrysler that ran like a top, once I got it up and going. Pretty damn powerful really! Had a blast on that boat! They really did the interiors up pretty nice too. Was dressed to the nines, not bare bones like some boats frome the mid-seventies you know? I'm about 50 yrs. old but have had and run a 70 Chrysler, a 135, and a 130 with a 135 head. All of them were a pain till I got the big manual studied it and applied that info, then could make them scream man! I found them powerful and smooth, with great throttle etc. controls too.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina That it is but most of all it prevents delamation and dry rod between layers of wood that happens with exterior ply wood . as you know water takes the path of least resisents. thanks for your reply. Vic
Hi I've been watching your channel for I'm going to save for a good 6-7 months and I've been watching all the videos and everything I subscribed quick question for you I have the Evinrude 1967 18 horsepower fast wing now my motor is running and everything but there's a couple of things that I'm looking for like parts and stuff like that kind of wondering see if you have any parts that I might be able to buy out for you
Dont want to use the treated plywood against aluminum. Theres a chemical reaction that will eat aluminum. You did the right thing with going with regular plywood and coating it.
Mr. Michael, today I had my first crazy boat rescue. Left my house yesterday with my car loaded with tools and accessories and made it home today after 1100 miles. Did the lights of the trailer at the harbor freight parking lot and replaced a wheel at Walmart parking lot with a brand new one that I bought there. Was a nice adventure but my family is pretty excited about our new boat. Thanks to you no issues at all, all the stops was planned and I made it easily.
Haaha! Ditto dun-it on the Harbor Freight parkin lot light kit replacement!
20 bucks, a pack of zip-ties, a half hour, three or four cuss words, and a cup of coffee took me all the way! LOL!
Way to go, That was quite a distance. Thanks for watching
I have a 14 ft PolarKraft and 20 HP Mercury that my dad bought new in the summer of 1975. As if I don't already have enough projects, I'm starting to plan out my restoration strategy. I don't need either, but Dad and I had some good times in that boat. Along with all the fishing and boat rides, I learned to ski behind it. It deserves to run again. The boat needs a new transom and some cosmetic work. I too looked into Coosa board. I also found replacement transom board for around $100. That's not bad, but I may just end up using exterior as you did. I'm not sure about the motor. On one end, it'll need a carburetor rebuild and new impeller. Easy enough. The 49 year old power pack has literally melted over time. A compression check will tell me it the motor is going to be anything more than a display piece.
I did my transom the exact same way 2 months ago. I also used SS bolts, washers and nuts. I used 5200 to attach it to my aluminum as well as a below water line marine sealer on all the hardware. It turned out great, very please. I also scuffed up the resin on the back to help adhesion to the aluminum. Also added a transom saver made out of 1/8" aluminum and made a rain cap out of some aluminum C channel. First boat owner and makes me feel good that did it the same way as someone as experienced as yourself.
I didn't glue mine to the transom, I'm just going to let the bolts do all the holding in place job. Thanks for watching
Great video I saw on backwater boat rehab a jack plate made for about $30. Thanks for all you do Chris from OHIO
I'll check it out, I have watched a few at this point and I have an idea about how I want to do mine, thanks for watching
Thanks a lot Michael, I really enjoy and look forward to your videos. Your approach to your projects are practical and easy to understand. Thanks again
Glad you like them!
Last year I did the exact same transom replacement on a ‘87 Alumicraft V 14. Mine didn’t look too bad. That was before I started to pull it apart. Badly rotted, it was 1 1/2” plywood. I got lucky ,a local marine dealer purchased 1 1/2” plywood 4x8 transom blanks from a fiberglass boat builder that went out of business for $100. Sealed it up with oil based paint. Worked good. Before that I tried the plywood method but couldn’t get a decent bond. It was expensive, probably $250 when all said and done.
Nice to stumble onto the 1 1/2" stuff, thanks for watching
Great video Michael!! Was lots of fun viewing. Have a beautiful day & keep those videos coming!!! Illinois,USA
Thank you! Will do! thanks for watching
I need to do this same project this summer. Your video is going to help me immensely!
Glad I could help!
Thank you, for another educational and entertaining video.
Glad you enjoyed it, Thanks for watching as always.
43 degrees and no snow? man iam doing something wrong . LOL great video i did the same thing on a 18 ft john boat that i picked up just outside cedar rapids .great video lookking forward seeing the video on the jack plate
I'm doing that next just as soon as I'm done with the front deck. Thank as always Badger.
Good Job, do want to clarify the difference between marine grade and external plywood is not only glue but marine grade can only have a certain amount of voids. The really high grade marine ply will have no voids at all according to my sources at the plywood mills I do work for here in Oregon.
Thanks for the plywood information. Thanks for watching
Old woodworkers trick. Sprinkle a little table salt on your glue surfaces before putting them together. It will provide a little grit to keep things from sliding but will not weaken the bond.
I have heard of the salt trick before. Thanks for watching
As soon as the snow goes away, I'm replacing the wood on my 40 years old 16 footer's transom. Your thorough input and suggestions will be put to good use. I'll be using brass hardware though as I understand it is more compatible with aluminum than stainless and add cap-nuts on protruding threads for a factory finish look. And a Happy New Year to you Michael !
Make it great again, thanks for watching
Great vid Sir very informative as always! Thanks!
So nice of you, thanks for watching
Great job I bought a 14ft v bottom boat two years ago had screw holes from a transducer from fishfinder I use Bondo to seal all the holes don’t leak a drop I got half a sheet of marine plywood I might do that to my little boat
that's cool that it worked, thanks for watching
Hello hi just wanna say that I love your videos you are so cozy, you are reminding me about myself you’re just a littel older. :-) so you have a fan in Denmark. I also make my own videos with the same contents as you do. Keep up the good work my friend
Oh thank you! Thanks for watching and I will check out your channel
Just subscribed, Thanks
Fantastic!!!👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for the visit
gday mate the glues as far as i understand it here anyway are the same as marine ply for exterior or what we call structural ply ,the difference that i am lead to believe is that one has a select veneer for asthetic purposes were as your structural is just that for structural purposes no fancy stuff knot holes ect. I have done a couple of transoms and i have never used marine ply . What i did do was i laminated the two pieces together with a layer of glass in between , after i used a bucket load of brass screws to hold it together while the resin and glass went off then rounder all the edges over with a trimmer blade half round ,a quick refit to ensure all is still well then completely laminated in glass so the transom to waterproof it , in reality it was overkill but it will last a life time of the boat .
Overkill is usually just the right amount in my book, thanks for watching
👍👍Real good tips on sealing and replacing transom the spray paint through holes to know where to screw sheets while gluing together 👍👍👍. I don’t use marine plywood it weighs more cost more and you still have to seal it. When hammering out dent from whatever they backed into . Just one concerned I saw is the seam where transom meets bottom looked cranked. Really interested in how you gonna build you Jack plate . One more ? Are you gonna build you a new trailer or customize one from another boat. Transom looks great. Looked like on old transom they notched it so cap would fit 👍👍👍 music drone 👍👍 As always Sir thanks for the ride along. Keep’em coming
I'm looking forward to the jack plate myself, I dig the welding and bolting of stuff for sure, thanks for watching
The crease you banged out of the edge of the starboard side my guess is it slid off a trailer or slid out of the back of a truck
That would be a good guess. Thanks for watching
Michael,
Great video, I think it's great you were able to use some wood at your shop. I also like you using the fiber glass resin to seal the boards. was it cheap to use the resin instead of marine spar varnish? It looks good and I agree it will last a long time. Any more information on the 20 HP Mercury outboard and the flywheel?
Thanks,
Tim
about $35 in resin, It should be really durable for the long haul, thanks for watching
I am in the same situation with my transom but worse the wood had rotted and the previous owner tightened the lower bolts that hold the motor so tight is pulled in the U channel that supports the lower transom not sure i can set it back correctly unless i cut it out and tig in another piece of U channel, issue is no room to work
that a bummer, sometimes it gets worse before it can get better. Thanks for watching
im wondering what you got in mind for the jack plate. personally i would have had the jackplate so i could use the same bolts to mount it. but thats me . its your channel. thanx for bringing us along.
I got a plan and it may involve some of the original holes if they fall in line with my home built jack plate. Thanks for watching
Did you check the aluminum transom for water tightness
We will be doing that soon enough for sure. thanks for watching
Hey! That's a Chrysler runabout in the background huh!?
I do have a Chrysler in the background, I'll get to it this winter to see if it's any good. thanks for watching
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina,
Yeah man! Had one and liked it quite a bit. Had puke-green fine metal-flake upholstery. Had a 135 Chrysler that ran like a top, once I got it up and going. Pretty damn powerful really! Had a blast on that boat! They really did the interiors up pretty nice too. Was dressed to the nines, not bare bones like some boats frome the mid-seventies you know?
I'm about 50 yrs. old but have had and run a 70 Chrysler, a 135, and a 130 with a 135 head. All of them were a pain till I got the big manual studied it and applied that info, then could make them scream man! I found them powerful and smooth, with great throttle etc. controls too.
Marine plywood has no voids in it like on the edge of what you are useing (Exterior plywood ) The glue they use is the same.
Well the voids could be a strength issue potentially, Thanks for watching
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina That it is but most of all it prevents delamation and dry rod between layers of wood that happens with exterior ply wood . as you know water takes the path of least resisents. thanks for your reply. Vic
Completely rebuilt, lost the receipts. Turned out great!
Used transom for sale, only 38 holes in it, almost knew, $200, thanks for watching
Or do you use 304 or 18-8?
I'm not sure what grade of bolts they carried at the big box store. Thanks for watching
Hi I've been watching your channel for I'm going to save for a good 6-7 months and I've been watching all the videos and everything I subscribed quick question for you I have the Evinrude 1967 18 horsepower fast wing now my motor is running and everything but there's a couple of things that I'm looking for like parts and stuff like that kind of wondering see if you have any parts that I might be able to buy out for you
Check MarineEngine.com for you parts and part number needs. Thanks for watching
They are knees, not struts.
Knees, struts, braces, supports. Does it really matter? thanks for watching
Dont want to use the treated plywood against aluminum. Theres a chemical reaction that will eat aluminum. You did the right thing with going with regular plywood and coating it.
thanks for the information and thanks for watching