Disassembling the 1.8L Turbo Cruze Engine to See the DAMAGE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2020
- Disassembling the 1.8L Turbo Cruze Engine to See the DAMAGE.
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Awesome plans ahead for the 1.8 turbo!
@Matthew Chevalier Reason for the bad idle and it not running good is because of you putting a breather on the catch can that is a massive vacuum leak you just created
@@kevinanglin678 No, it’s on the intake side not the charge pipe side. That’s not how a catch can works.
@@kevinanglin678 Nvm, he hooked it up wrong. That’s why. Properly installed, a catch can shouldn’t do that.
Awesome! I have a 1.8 chevy sonic. I would be a total mess trying something like this... I'd be so stressed out I would lose a part or put it back together wrong. You're a beast!!
I appreciate it.
Maybe the different injectors caused the carbon buildup? The original fuel system is quite adaptive. My untouched Sonic 1.8 will crawl up steep mountain roads at idle, thanks to the 5M and the idle circuit compensating for changing loads. I won't change anything except the timing belt and water pump, part of the task.
Good luck! Been following this build for months. Keep it coming
Thanks, Michael! More to come soon!
Cheetah print markings in the cylinder at the top of the cylinder is from being induction hardened due to that’s where most of the stress and heat is concentrated, duramax diesels have the same thing done to them as well
Interesting. Good to know! Thanks!
This is the best car build on youtube!!
Thanks! Means a lot.
The most important mod you forgot was stickers. Each one adds 5hp and they're pretty cheap. It's the most cost effective power adder available
Then my tool box has the more horsepower.
Dope build my man, also dope ass GSXR. Sounded mean!
Thanks! That my brothers GSXR. He stopped by to brag about the new upgrades. lol
i subbed just because your positive attitude. not to mention your mechanical aptitude.
I really appreciate that. I'm not a mechanic by trade, but have learned a lot from my old man, and the years have taught me to be patient when it comes to working with cars. It's great to have a platform to share what I do know, and to learn along the way.
Love this videos. Keep It Up. Amazing project!
Thanks Michel! Lots more to come.
@@cmattdabrat great. Subscribed and followed on instagram to follow this project closely!
@@michelhadid I appreciate it!
What went wrong it seems is the turbo filling the engine with oil from the turbo oil port being drilled out...
I thought the stock PCV would be up to the task. Such a newb mistake. The throttle body connects directly to the valve cover with no check valve. So I was basically boosting the crankcase causing oil to blow into the intake, therefor it ingested a lot of oil. The intake was completely soaked with oil and so was the rest of the intercooler piping. You live and learn, but hey, it spawned a lot more mods which in turn will be a more powerful car.
@@cmattdabrat no hate whatso ever love the build man, not many people are doing stuff on newer vehicles and it's awesome to see. Keep up the great work
@@benjaminhopkins3896 Thanks! I appreciate it.
@@benjaminhopkins3896 the oil port had an orifice in the turbo side it to make it spray instead of just pumping oil into it. Drilling out the orifice didn't cause it to get into the intake.
@@idabomb00 if you drill out the orifice it's going to get over oiled, leak past the turbo seals into the intake and exhaust 🤦♂️🤦♂️. There's no way the turbo is going to regulate its own oil, there's a reason all oil ports have a orifice built in...
Very cool project an Very nice work with the cruze she will be a sleeper
Thank you! Hahaha, it'll be fun when I have her back up and running.
Nice build!
Thanks!
Great video, sir!! That head cleaned up nicely. Also, it looks like there's a good chunk of meat(metal) between each cylinder. I think that with proper rods/piston heads, these blocks look like they can take a little bit of abuse.
I've been keeping my eye out for some 80.5mm bore forged pistons...
Thank you! These engines definitely make for a great power platform with the block being cast, and they cylinder head being aluminum. Give it another decade, or perhaps sooner if we can get some attention with this build, and more guys building their Cruzes / Sonics, and I'm sure more aftermarket parts will pop up on the market. Hell, maybe I'll be the guy to bulk order custom parts lol...
Let me know if you come up with anything. At this moment, I'm thinking the best bet would some custom pistons. I'm going to see how much a set will run. Might be around $500 which isn't too bad.
The skirt coating on mine flaked off and and made for a bad piston slap in the middle of ringing and replacing now
Those ridges you feel are from the Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket. The aluminum from the head is softer so there is slight deformation. As long as there is no warping to the head, a MLS gasket will take care of those imperfections on reassembly. As far as the PCV, just remove and cap all the factory equipment holes and just use the catch can.
Thanks! The plan this time around is a throttle body with no coolant / vacuum passages, along with the custom intake manifold, and just venting it to a catch can that's a vent to atmosphere type.
Hi Matt, great work again love the Cruze series. Check the exhaust valves for any damage because the chain tensioners on the timing chain runs off of oil pressure for our engines. Coming from the previous video where you lost oil, your exhaust cams may have skipped timing from the cam shaft. GL!
Thanks Ken! I had the machine shop look everything over and reface the valves and cut the seats. All is good, but 3 exhaust valves needed replacing. More to come soon!
This is also a timing belt engine.
The 1.4 is a chain engine the 1.8 got a belt
Good job sir I’m now very interested new subscriber 👍
Thanks! Lots more to come!
Piston ring 1 and 2 are combustion rings: the seal the combustion chamber so that it can build pressure and ignite.
Piston ring 3 is the oil scraper ring: it "scrapes" excess oil off the cylinder bore.
None of the ring end gaps should ever line up. There are specifications for how many degrees of space should be between the end gaps.
The more you know. 🙂👍🏻
Thanks! I'm definitely familiar with that. I've built a few engines in my time. Check out my V8 bug and el camino build.
Is there any reason why I keep getting told that cylinder 3 seems low on power? Standard spec 1.8 engine no upgrades.
@@michaelprinsloo7347 check your engine's air filter element. Make sure you're using clean, unleaded gasoline that meets the minimum recommended octane rating for your engine. Make sure you're doing routine oil changes and other maintenance. If you have the ability to do so, check for any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) withing the PCM, even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't illuminated. You may have to bring your car to an authorized repair shop or dealer if you can't find anything, or do not feel comfortable doing these checks. 👍🏻👍🏻
That sparkplug placement makes that a Hemi/Hemispherical head.
Is that a hemi? Never thought about that, but you're right.
Is just doing speed density and ditching the maf an option on the cruise?
Works great on turbo ls stuff
Definitely. That's how I was tuning it because the intake needs more length for MAF tuning to have worked well.
Don't clean the pistons the buildup isolates the pistons for cooler running 😅 the build is really nice to watch, and it's great
Thanks for the tip! Never thought of that.
Did you hold up and exhaust manifold gasket, and then call it a head gasket.
Hey if there is ever catastrophic failure Chevy Cruze engines are usually about $300 at your local Junkyard they blow without the eBay turbos lol
lol, let's just say these engines aren't popular and plenty in the scrapyards.
Not sure if I missed it, but did he do a compression test before taking the engine apart?
I didn't. Well, I did the week before my last drive. How this works is, "ah, damn honey. I blew a head gasket... we'll, while it's apart, might as well build it."
I got the coil upgrade. Worth it but I’d see if you can’t buy what BNR provides somewhere else. I ordered the coil upgrade on April 30th and didn’t receive it until July 6th. The virus has really slowed down their shipping.
Nice! I bet. The virus slowed down the whole world, or at least gave an excuse as to not get things out in a timely manner. I found a tutorial on how to make one, so I've purchased some D585 coils with wires (set of 8 just incase) $130, a 36" relocation wiring harness, and the connector. Total in it thus far for the DIY conversion, about $200. I'll have to make a custom bracket that looks nice, will be the hardest part. The valve cover on the 1.8 is different than the 1.4 and I couldn't find anything for a 1.8, so I'll have to fab something up.
Matthew Chevalier, I couldn’t help but notice the 281 area code. You in the Houston area? I’m in Missouri City. If your not too far you can check out the bracket on mine to give you an idea of how to proceed.
@@jamesholden7593 I'm in the Humble area. I used to live in Sugar Land, so I know exactly where you're at. Once I start designing the bracket I may swing by and take a look at it. I appreciate it!
Probably not an option now; I assume the head and engine are reunited, I'm not sure what the stock compression ratio is for these 1.8L but a common practice on e36 and e46 BMW turbo builds is to use a thicker head gasket, (not those sandwich plates used on VR6 builds) like a .120"-.140" thick head gasket to decrease the overall compression ratio to allow for more headroom for boost. I love this build and I really hope for success overall because I had a Saab with the LSJ/B207R that I loved owning, I'm in a Caliber SRT now; which coincidentally shares the same platform as the Jeep Compass/Patriot, Mitsubishi Outlander, Lancer GTS, and a few other models. But back to those Ecotec's; I absolutely love them GM did something great with those Ecotec and LS motors! Best of luck!
Thanks! I really appreciate it. Not a bad building block for some power. I've always loved the SRT 4 cylinder platform. VW / Audi is probably as close as it gets to what this engine has going for it. DOHC with VVT on both cams, iron block, and an aluminum head. The engine is still out at the moment. I've been waiting 7 months for custom pistons from JE. Once they come in, I can calculate the compression ratio based on the combustion chamber CC, gasket, how far down the piston is in the hole, piston cc, etc. Trying to shoot for 9.5:1. The stock head gaskets are MLS gaskets, which is cool. More to come and thanks again!
@@cmattdabrat No problem! Unfortunately for me in my SRT4, I've got the 4B12T variant of the World motor which is aluminum, but there's a write-up online for swapping the Ralliart AWD rear subframe and supporting suspension/drivetrain components along with the Evo X transmission into the Caliber to convert it to AWD since it loosely shares the same platform with the Evo; more-so the Lancer GTS and Ralliart variants. As of right now until I can source all the AWD parts I've got a fairly simple setup; 550cc injectors, Catted 3.5" downpipe, Stock 3" exhaust, BOV, bigger FMIC, drop-in cone filter, bigger throttle body from a Kia Sorento, some suspension stiffening parts, and a custom tune. Makes for a very fun daily driver! Best of luck to you and your build; keep the good vibes my guy!
How about porting the exhaust manifold as well?
Great idea. I could port match it to the head.
One indicator of a major issue is your boost/vac gauge. I noticed when you first installed it the gauge was slow to respond. When you come off engine braking the gauge should go to zero immediately, yet it doesn’t. It’s also slow to respond going into boost. This makes me question whether there’s a kink in the line.
Additionally when you only see 10” Hg at idle you have a major problem. That says the engine can’t build vacuum properly which indicates a cracked piston/broken ring at the very least. Your boost gauge is a valuable tool in monitoring the health of your engine.
I also noticed your oil drain is angled towards the ground, that is absolutely suboptimal. You should angle it up. The way it is now it has to overcome gravity and can cause oil to back up into the line.
Things to consider.
- Guy who built cars for a living before he started tuning for a living.
Your improperly installed catch can caused all of this.
You got it! Completely overlooked that aspect, so I was basically boosting the crankcase as well. Newb turbo mistake.
Usually the Cruzes run at a very high compression ratio.
Adding a turbo, will more than likely cause ping/knock.
On the first and second gen Cruze 1.4L turbos, at high temperatures (above 90) the car would reduce power, and would destroy the head gasket once on the highway trying to get to 70MPH at +100F outside temp.
Hi compression doesn't mean the car will knock. It's all in the details. Octane of fuel used, cylinder head design, squish / quench area, piston design, etc. Boost effectively raises compression ratio. The more boost you run, the better gas / fuel you need, the burn process happens faster, therefor timing needs to be pulled because the burn process / flame front will be come more efficient because of the density of air. Same reason timing is pulled with nitros. Knock / ping happens because of too much advance in ignition timing and that's the engine letting you know, it doesn't like that timing and the burn even is happening sooner than the tune is commanding. Predetonation is another store. Hot spots in the cylinder, too low octane for what the engine / flame front needs, or crappy squish / quench.
If it isn’t too much trouble could u explain what happen to me. I’m ok at car mechanics but not on ur level so I’m trying to prepare myself to not make the same mistakes with my build(or at least minimize damage). Some advice would be truly appreciated. Nice build
Thanks. I overlooked the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system / setup. The PCV diaphragm is built into the cam cover. Stock, it vents the crankcase pressure back into the engine right behind the throttle body. So in other words, the valve cover "vent" is assisted by the vacuum of the engine to help pull crankcase / blow by fumes into the engine to be burned for a cleaner running engine.
What I overlooked was I was boosting the PCV. In other words, I was boosting the crankcase as well, causing oil to blow through my attempt at adding more crankcase ventilation. The hole I drilled with the tube going to the intake side of the turbo. So the engine slow caked the whole intake / cold side of the turbo as well as my intake. Aside from that fix, the car would have continued to run fine, but once you feel the boost, it becomes addictive and you want more. lol
Better upgrade the fuel pump and injectors if u plan on maxing out the boost.
I have a set of #114 1200 cc injectors ready to go, and I have installed a fuel pump from DW. Should be good to go on e85 for up to 500whp.
I know these video are 2 years old but I hope u buy breaker bars. A torque wrench should never be used to break free fasteners
The best cleaner is dimexide. Pour it and use heater and you will see how good it's cleaning.
Thanks for the tip!
@@cmattdabrat be cheerful it's very toxic when you heated it use a protective respirator. Respect from Russia.
Where did you get that part organizer?
I got it off amazon amzn.to/2Q2qaG6
I need a 1.4 head for a 2011
what on earth did you need to do a motor teardown for on this? im just wondering what the diagnostic thought process was?
The engine had a lack of power, was constantly on boost, and barely made it back to my shop. So I decided to tear into it to further investigate.
@@cmattdabrat so did you ever get this damn thing done hahaha
@@emarquis87 lol, first start up on the built engine coming up.
Lot of cool content but first thing I saw was you using a torque wrench to break bolts loose and I don't want to be "that guy" but that can mess up the calibration on them
Thanks! I'm hear to learn as well. I can't say I really ever though of that, so thanks for sharing. Now I know.
The beam on beam type torque wrenches can be bent if you're no careful. 👍👍
Also, not many people know this, but torque wrenches should be sent off to manufacturer at least once a year for calibration.
Many years ago, I had a twin turbo on a SB Chevy. I had just flogged it and let off. I happened to glance in the rear view mirror and I couldn’t see anything for all the smoke. I was sure it blew the engine but then I smelled it. Not motor oil, not coolant. It was ATF! The diaphragm of the vacuum modulator had ruptured and the engine vacuum was slurping up transmission fluid! Bought a modulator that could handle boost and vacuum and all was good.
Some times it's the simple things that are overlooked. Thanks for sharing!
6:13 Did I see you use a torque wrench as a breaker bar?
Yes sir!
Time for a new torque wrench. 😬 Get a breaker bar man. But dude I stumbled on this build and been watching it. Love it. Keep it up
The turbo cruzes have fractured connecting rods?
They do! Which I thought was quite peculiar.
@@cmattdabrat yeah! Usually you see those on semi truck engines!
Those engines have a problem with cylinder taper causing compression loss
Thanks. Compression was fine. It's at the machine shop. Alls good... just wanted to be sure. It'll be fully built this coming round. Forged pistons, beefier rods, springs, retainers, cams, the works.
Well the 1.8 was never produced as turbo charged so adding a turbo to an engine that the rings are not gapped for can cause substantial wear. The 1.4 and 2.0 were turbocharged
They're fine for 8psi for short bursts. The issue at this point of the build was the PCV. She's holding 20 psi ATM with rods and custom forged pistons.
Well it makes sense now that I know you have aftermarket pistons and rods, but I’d never expect a stock 1.8 to handle much boost, rings aren’t gapped for it and most likely not low tension rings which under forced induction of any kind causes havoc
You think the stock motor with no ring gap modification is good up to 8psi? What about the stock motor where the only thing you change is ring gap, widening for boost but leave everything else stock... how far could I push that😅
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
I really appreciate the love!
You do know that it did come stock with a turbo charger I don't remember what size engine
The 1.4. This is the 1.8 and there's no support for them. Trying to change that with this build.
I don't believe this is the first engine you've ever worked on so obviously you know what you were doing what made you decide to buy a Chevy Cruze if you're a mechanic
Go back and look at some of my old videos, which date back more than 10 years. Done a couple 350 SBC builds and spent 5 years building a V8 front engine bug. In 2011, I had a 1.4 RS LTZ Cruze. Loved it. Got the 1.6 in 2016 with the intentions of boosting it some day.
My guess before watching is ringlands.
Turned out to just be I overlooked the PCV setup. I was basically boosting the crankcase because the PCV hose runs right behind the throttle body and I assumed the PCV would close like a check valve, but that wasn't the case.
Get er dun right the first time!
Bingo!
"The lands have carbon build up"
Dude, that's the teflon coating, put the tools down.
Its' carbon. Only thing that has a coating is the side skirt. Pistons put in ChemDip, gone...
Put down the keyboard.
Just by a saab aero turbo
Cross hatching never gets worn off unless your engine has a million miles on it. The piston rings are ment to wear out not the engine block. The piston skirt should never touch the cylinders to wear them... Anytime someone says the cross hatching looks good is cringe worthy. It could literally be blowing oil with no compression and still have great cross hatching on the cylinders.
After about 150k crosshatche is gone unless some one used great synthetic oil especially older tbi or carbd engines to say cross hatch almost never disappears is hilarious
Haha dang you really shooting for an 600HP Cruze or summin' eh?
Just want to see what it'll do with close to 3 bar. lol. Plus it'll be a lot of fun.
@@cmattdabrat 3 BAR?! Oh hell yeah.
@@802Garage 3 bar or blow!
Hey I have a question
Sure! Shoot.
I’m getting Paul Rudd vibes
The weather outside is weather... ;)
@@cmattdabrat nice! Also I’ve been watching your videos everyday keeping up with them. You’re doing great! I also have this obsession with cars.
@@joshuatorres4762 That's awesome man! I really appreciate it. It's a fun build and can't wait to post more content.
That’s what happens when you don’t properly don’t know tune your car to handle that boost you can’t just force Erin to an engine that wasn’t made for it
If you were paying attention, there was NO damage. It was simply me overlooking the PCV system. Just needed a check valve between the cam cover and throttle body.
ACTUALLY ON A TURBO MOTOR YOU WANT LESS DURATION AND A WIDE LSA. 110-114 DEGREES.
I told Crower what I was doing, and they hooked me up with my cam regrinds.
@@cmattdabrat OK I'm curious to hear how it performs... I'll probably figure it out as I'm still going thru your vids..
@@bbgcars I can hardly wait to see how it does as well. I appreciate the support!
@@cmattdabrat NO PROBS..I JUST SUBBED ,MAYBE YOUR AUDIENCE WILL LIKE MY WORK TOO AS IM IN S.E. ASIA DOING THIS THANG!
There is a lot of burnt oil. You might want to upgrade your oil to full synthetic.
That's just 122k miles worth of carbon deposits. The manufacturer calls for Dextros oil, which is a synthetic blend.
@@cmattdabrat Yep but go full synthetic. CASTROL EDGE is Dextrose 1 & 2 approved. It exceeds all manufacturer oil specifications for all GM and Ford.
So basically it lasted a month
LOL. Nah. Drove it 2k miles. Did fine. Oil just slowly accumulated because I didn't set the PCV up properly for boost.
jeje nice vid dude, but c'mon a cruze? next time buy japanese
Thanks! Maybe in a future build as the channel grows and monetization supports it. Plus, I like doing offbeat things.
@@cmattdabrat cool!
@@TheJosephayal Definitely a lot more support for a Japanese car. That one could get off the ground fast.
Please stop using a torque wrench as a breaker bar.
why put this much work into a cruze loool
Why not? Iron block, aluminum head, DOHC VVT... why do the Honda guys do it? Same reason. Fun, and easy to make loads of power.
@@cmattdabrat considering you're changing everything in the car I wouldn't call it easy... easy is putting a tune on an MK7.5 GTI and a stuffed turbo and have plenty of power already. At the end of the day it's still a Cruze interior lol
Don't waste the money on a engine build if your not gonna also buy a real turbo. Your gonna learn the hard way when that turbo destroys your expensive build.
Currently taking "real turbo" sponsorship applications. ;) The only issue I've ran into after 2k miles is my lack of knowledge or overlooking the PCV setup. Be sure to stay tuned, and let's see how it'll turn out. Who knows, it could be your told you so, or mine. Definitely will be a fun adventure.
Those engines are Junk....Always a replacing pcv valves and valve pan cover if not it runs engine....
JUNK go get a Honda
The 1.4's. Yup. The 1.8's, nope. Maybe as a future project I'll mess with a Honda.
I have one 1.8L, 65k miles.... Runs fine and it´s very reliable, zero oil leaking and i do abuse the engine. Not sure but maybe your problem happens w/ the 1.4T.