I have some very nicely weathered barn wood that looks great on both sides. This will help me make use of both and not 'lose' one in the finished application.
Thanks for the demo, great to see different ways of adjustment and tips like the weatherboards, you got a great result with your resawing. I just bought a 14/12, cheers from Australia.
Thank you for this excellent video. Certainly, a great help for me. Of course, you're using probably the best equipment out there. Would be a lot more difficult with a cheaper saw.
I just saw this on Twitter and I do have some questions. 1) Will you be having classes that involve resawing? 2) Does the density of the wood make a difference? 3) One of the areas where book matching is particularly effective is when the piece you are resawing has a crotch where a branch came into the trunk. Would the changing densities and grain directions be of concern? Yes, Woodcraft of Spokane is my local store, I live in Spirit Lake, and I'm definitely looking forward to getting in for classes, except on Sunday afternoons as Church is more important.
This is Marc, I did the re-sawing demo, I will try to answer your questions. 1) we have not had a re-sawing class in the past but are always open to new ideas. If there ends up being a lot of call for the class I will certainly consider teaching it. As for question 2 & 3 I think they can be answered at the same time: grain density and direction will have an effect on the sawing. The blade will want to wander towards the path of least resistance. It is very important to to be sure your saw is set up correctly, you have a new sharp blade, and the appropriate blade, and let the saw do the work. If the saw is cutting slow because of a particularly dense piece of wood then just take it slow. Hope this helps.
Don't bring your blade guard all the way down to the work piece when you set up your cut for the drift adjustment, because when you bring your fence in, the blade guard has to remain above the height of the fence which will result in a different drift angle and you will have to readjust to compensate for the difference. You want to keep all things constant when setting things up. Also when you check for whether or not the fence is square to the table, bring the fence in to where it will be locked during the cut instead of on the edge of the table. In a perfect world you should have a perfectly flat table and a perfectly straight fence rail but in the real world you might not be using the best equipment with precisely machined parts so set things up under the same conditions that you will be cutting with. Even the material itself in some cases.
Here we go again, another person teaching others the wrong way to adjust for drift. The proper method is to move the table to match the blade. There is plenty of play around the mounting bolts to twist the table so that the miter slot and fence matches the blade. If the miter slot and fence are not parallel, you can't make an accurate 90 degree cut using the miter gauge.
I have some very nicely weathered barn wood that looks great on both sides. This will help me make use of both and not 'lose' one in the finished application.
Thanks for the demo, great to see different ways of adjustment and tips like the weatherboards, you got a great result with your resawing. I just bought a 14/12, cheers from Australia.
Thank you for this excellent video. Certainly, a great help for me. Of course, you're using probably the best equipment out there. Would be a lot more difficult with a cheaper saw.
Interesting presentation. Thank you.
I just saw this on Twitter and I do have some questions.
1) Will you be having classes that involve resawing?
2) Does the density of the wood make a difference?
3) One of the areas where book matching is particularly effective is when the piece you are resawing has a crotch where a branch came into the trunk. Would the changing densities and grain directions be of concern?
Yes, Woodcraft of Spokane is my local store, I live in Spirit Lake, and I'm definitely looking forward to getting in for classes, except on Sunday afternoons as Church is more important.
This is Marc, I did the re-sawing demo, I will try to answer your questions. 1) we have not had a re-sawing class in the past but are always open to new ideas. If there ends up being a lot of call for the class I will certainly consider teaching it. As for question 2 & 3 I think they can be answered at the same time: grain density and direction will have an effect on the sawing. The blade will want to wander towards the path of least resistance. It is very important to to be sure your saw is set up correctly, you have a new sharp blade, and the appropriate blade, and let the saw do the work. If the saw is cutting slow because of a particularly dense piece of wood then just take it slow. Hope this helps.
@@mdcustomguitars Thank you.
Adjusting the blade against a finger cal instead of using a square. Seems foolish
Don't bring your blade guard all the way down to the work piece when you set up your cut for the drift adjustment, because when you bring your fence in, the blade guard has to remain above the height of the fence which will result in a different drift angle and you will have to readjust to compensate for the difference. You want to keep all things constant when setting things up. Also when you check for whether or not the fence is square to the table, bring the fence in to where it will be locked during the cut instead of on the edge of the table. In a perfect world you should have a perfectly flat table and a perfectly straight fence rail but in the real world you might not be using the best equipment with precisely machined parts so set things up under the same conditions that you will be cutting with. Even the material itself in some cases.
Anyways is not a word. Anyway is the word.
Here we go again, another person teaching others the wrong way to adjust for drift. The proper method is to move the table to match the blade. There is plenty of play around the mounting bolts to twist the table so that the miter slot and fence matches the blade. If the miter slot and fence are not parallel, you can't make an accurate 90 degree cut using the miter gauge.
If you always use the miter slot with a miter gauge to push the stock, correct?
@@motleypixel the miter gauge is used to make 90 degree cross cuts.
@@waynebusse6376 right, just was not following your OP about adjusting for drift. I re-read it and now it sounds correct. Thanks.