This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made th-cam.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
I remember doing this with a friend about 35 years ago. He was a butcher with a compulsive fascination for personal, pan-economic issues (efficient and cheap). Butchers have powerful bandsaws and the blades are kept sharp to save labour. It produced 6-7, 10" wide pine veneers very quickly. The bandsaw and shop were being cleaned immediately afterwards...
Was about to complain about the low resolution - then saw this is from 2007. Lol I would not even have noticed back then. Still a great video and awesome knowledge passed on, thank you!
you prolly dont give a shit but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Tate Landry Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
really its only you? I share a shop with a friend only a few hundred square feet. You are very fortunite to be able to work alone. your shop looks huge and from what i see in the videos you got really awesome tools. seams like a cool and creative place to work.
For most furniture applications, they are certainly strong enough. I believe one of the magazines did a test that showed the traditional m&t joint faring the best. But if one joint handles 500lbs and another handles 400lbs, does it matter if all it will ever receive is 100lbs? That's sort of the logic I use when I approach joinery choices.
Great video as usual, Marc! This is going to save me some money- I am about to remodel my kitchen using hardwood flooring, and doing this should save quite a bit of loot over buying veneer floor slats. Just make it a little thicker and cut a tongue and groove and it should work out nice. Thanks again!
I like your simple home made set up, especially the featherboard stack. I make a small band saw power feeder in kit form (mine is usable on table saws and router tables too) that would make this kind of work easier yet, providing steady feed as slow as you need. @
With a finely-tuned bandsaw, you can get pretty darn thin. But the thinner you go, the more difficult it is. So I usually like to stay in the 1/8" or 3/32" range.
i cant believe how smoothe your bandsaw is. Mine's 24" pm and i think i need to replace the tires (which i have) but holly cow theyre not easy to change!
wonderfull video friend, im a longboarder and am thinking of making my own, very helpfull, but i'll be cutting 8x3's from my local lumber yard and my cuts are going to be 4 and a half feet lol, thanks though man!!!
Yup just me. Oddly enough, I might be moving very soon and I will have to downsize the shop a bit. But I used to work in a small garage so I am no stranger to tight quarters, despite being spoiled for the past 4 years. :)
Hi. Thanks for the video. Do you offer this as a service? I have some 100 year old wood I want to use but need it veneered without doing it myself. That service seem impossible to find.
@papadonto8 You can do it with any wood, really. That's what makes veneering so great. You can take any wood you want and make it last a long time. Or make an entire table top from one piece of wood. And in your case, re-skin a door. If you do decide to do a bunch of these doors, you may want to look into vacuum press.
yes that would work quite well as a floating panel. i dont want to arguee. its just interesting to see how every woodworker dose thing slightly different then the next. I studyed with Mark Paddison threw Humber College in Toronto. keep up the videos, i do like your design taste, how many people work in that shop?
@dchamberss Usually I just use what I have on hand. I don't consider the strength differences between I, II, and III to be dramatic enough to justify stocking them all and using them selectively based on strength. So I base my decisions on what I have on hand at the time and how much water the piece will see. As for my training, I worked with David Marks for a short time, and I spent about a year working in a refinishing shop. The rest (most) is self-training and studying.
Using this veneering tech you could make two of any project out of the same amount of solid wood. That's the point. Veneers in days really gone by were much thicker than the 'toilet-tissue' we get these days, so this is a way of making your timber go further, plus you can clean up with a plane afterwards. Try that with modern veneers.
It really depends on how well-tuned your drum sander is. I know guys who have it so well tuned that they pretty much make paper thin sheets of veneer just for fun. So You can pretty much go as thin as you dare.
generally when i use veener i vacuume press it with a solids glued on the edge of my substraight that way my veneer covers both the substraight and the solid edging, leaving a clean edge. with 1/8" or 3/16" veneer the endgrain of the veneer is much more noticable. i guess that apeals to some to look good.
@TheWoodWhisperer thanks for the lesson! I know this is an old video but still relevant. Hopefully you will respond...can you please tell me what you use to wax your fence and should I also wax my other machines? Are there any I should not? Should I wax blades?
Some hobby stores sell several types of wood (mahogany, walnut, cherry, etc.) in 2 ft. lengths that are 3 inches wide in a number of different thicknesses (1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 in.); which is close to the same size as you can do on a table saw. And they aren't very expensive (usually less than $2 each.) The only drawback is that you can't get the nice figure and grain patterns as you might from a home sawn veneer. You just have to find the right store.
Generally anything less than 1/8" is considered veneer. Treating the end grain using home sawn veneer is no different than when you use any other veneer. You still need to cover up the ugly substrate. At around 3/32", these thick veneers are quite stable even over wide surfaces. And I agree that you would want to veneer both sides to maintain equilibrium.
Can you do the same thing with 2X6 and 2X4 since my idea is to buy slab doors and veneer them with natural wood designs. I don't have a band saw but my friend does. Any tips on this? Also thanks for your answer on my previous question.
It isn't ideal, but you can cut thin pieces at the tablesaw. Might need so add-ons to make it safe though. And you won't be able to do really wide pieces.
I need to cut 1 inch white oak boards down the middle and need a machine that can provide me with good constant cuts. What is the widest boards I can do consistently or can you go as high as the machine can allow? Have you seen a horizontal bandsaw and is it better to go with this or a normal bandsaw for the job I described. Thanks for a good video!
first off great video , I own a wood Mizer LT 35 saw Mill ,I have some very good black walnut I would like to make some veneer ,what is the very best band saw for this task ? can I do a 12" wide board ? ty n
I know this video was quite a while ago but hoping you can tell me what SFPM you run your saw at? Or do you vary it depending on blade pitch/width and/or type of wood being cut? Thank you.
i love how over built your fence is, screws nails and glue and it coulda used half the supports! totally the same thing i would have done! keep on with the great videos
Ucelo Also, lots of hard-surface "room color" will proclaim to the world, "my ceilings are high and you're not." It takes real courage to avoid a body or shotgun mic - especially when your better half works in worldwide *showbiz* (remember, we kid because we love. Or sometimes are pathologically jealous. But mostly love) 😂
Best surface to glue these to? mdf or veneer core plywood? And with that, what issues are there with expansion/contraction? I do know that a veneer should be on both sides of a panel for balance. Great video.
I am watch most of Marc’s videos from oldest to newest. Why? I seem to continue to find new tips. This time it was gluing up thin wood planks using tape. I used clamps before and it always warped the overall panel. I bet that problem is gone.
I agree that 1/8"-3/16" would give a pretty noticeable border. I suppose some might like it. But the veneer I am talking about in this video is bandsawn at about 1/8" and sanded down to 3/32". Thats starting to get thin enough that the endgrain becomes less and less of an issue. But ultimately, to each his own. Many folks just trim out the veneered board after the veneering is done, which gives a noticeable border regardless of the veneer thickness. And same thing when making panels.
i dont consider that a veneer. it is rather thick and what do you do with the end grain? (say on a table top) glued to a sub-straight it could be quite unstable and it is not economical givin that with that thickness of veneer. both sides of the sub-straight will be required to be veneered in order to maintain stability. thats my position. Mean whyle commercial veneers can often be quite thin.
Any suggestions for an affordable bandsaw with enough cut height and a 3/4" blade for the hobby woodworker that I am ? Atm I only have a very cheap small bandsaw but I'm thinking about an step up that's not more than a grand...
+Soulleecher i have a craftsman 14" bas350 that i love. i think it's the same as a rikon 14" 10-32 but $150 cheaper. i've used it for 2 years to make 3 boats, and 6 tables. it resaws well, it's smooth and powerful. i have never wished for a bigger one.
I looked into that saw it's a good value. Doesn't come with a fence but like dude said you just make one for resawing one for standard rip you just gave and edge joint a piece of dimensional chamfer the lower edge for a dust relief and clamp it down. Nice thing about that saw is the blade front loads.
honestly, it's actually not much cheaper. I wanted to cut my own out of an ebony board. But Stewmac has pre-radiused and slotted fingerboards. Saves a lot of time and headache knowing that it's accurate. you can cut a 3/8" thick piece from a board an mill it flat to clean it up then cut the slots and then use a radius block and some 60 grit paper to get the radius but believe me with the price of ebony Stewmac is way better. everything's done for you and you know it'll be accurate
Where do you live? In the US, you can just order them on Amazon. With a $10k budget you'll have a really awesome shop, but not quite like Marc's. Just that bandsaw you see in the video is over $4000. But perfectly decent brands like Grizzly or Rikon are already a lot less, and there is a flourishing market for used tools. In other countries, your mileage may vary. Some countries do not have anywhere near the stock of quality used tools floating around that you find in the US, and in some places imported tools are sold at ridiculous markups (sometimes due to tariffs). Check out youtubers like Matthias Wandel, John Heisz, and "stumpy nubs" for some great homemade tool designs.
I would like to see this done to be as smooth as a planed surface? you did say glue ready? or do we have different standards for glueing also how wide of a board are we talking about ? variables mate variables like it is said the devil is in the details
You want a planed surface from a bandsaw? Not going to happen. :) By glue-ready I simply mean free of ridges and the washboard effect. The surface might still be rough to some extent. Keep in mind, glue ready is not the same as finish ready. As for width, the bandsaw should be able to handle whatever width you can fit under it. But the wider the board, the more stress on the saw and the more perfect your setup needs to be.
I cut my own "veneers" for acoustic guitar tops which finish at about 4mm. A fingerboard would probably be thicker to allow for the fret cuts. For thinner veneer on say a cabinet door I drum sand to about 3mm, glue the veneer onto its panel, then sand the panel if I want the veneer thinner.
I was finally able to drop $2800 on a nice bandsaw and found this video while looking around TH-cam. I stopped watching this channel years ago. I forgot how good it was before all the merciless product shilling ruined it.
tight quarters are always associated to woodworking shops for some reason. haha. its all about making things work. i have a electric hoist that my 4'x8' veneer press is hung on and it hangs in the cieling above the table saw. iv seen some small shops that are just are amazingly orginized.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made th-cam.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
I cannot believe that 13 years make us look so different. BTW. Great video!
I can't express how much i appreciate that you can talk to the audience without saying "um" every three words lol. Interesting video too thanks!
I remember doing this with a friend about 35 years ago. He was a butcher with a compulsive fascination for personal, pan-economic issues (efficient and cheap). Butchers have powerful bandsaws and the blades are kept sharp to save labour. It produced 6-7, 10" wide pine veneers very quickly. The bandsaw and shop were being cleaned immediately afterwards...
resawing such a thin slices of wood is an exciting experience!
Was about to complain about the low resolution - then saw this is from 2007. Lol I would not even have noticed back then. Still a great video and awesome knowledge passed on, thank you!
This is one of the most informative video I have ever seen on TH-cam.
Well done! Very easy to understand, and well presented. Well written too. Can't wait to try it.
You are a perfectionist. I love watching your videos, they are very informative. Thanks for sharing
Excellent well paced and clear explanation
Thank you for demystifying the process! You just solved a problem with my current project and I will try it out soon.
you prolly dont give a shit but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Lennox Baylor instablaster :)
@Tate Landry Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Tate Landry it worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out :D
@Lennox Baylor happy to help =)
Awesome tips on the alignment triangle so that we can create the patterns!
really its only you? I share a shop with a friend only a few hundred square feet. You are very fortunite to be able to work alone. your shop looks huge and from what i see in the videos you got really awesome tools. seams like a cool and creative place to work.
For most furniture applications, they are certainly strong enough. I believe one of the magazines did a test that showed the traditional m&t joint faring the best. But if one joint handles 500lbs and another handles 400lbs, does it matter if all it will ever receive is 100lbs? That's sort of the logic I use when I approach joinery choices.
Great video as usual, Marc! This is going to save me some money- I am about to remodel my kitchen using hardwood flooring, and doing this should save quite a bit of loot over buying veneer floor slats. Just make it a little thicker and cut a tongue and groove and it should work out nice. Thanks again!
13 years+ later and here I am referencing this!
My grandfather is 104, he watched this and said I’ve worked with veneers in Rolls Royce for 52 years, I wish I saw this video 90 years ago :)
I like your simple home made set up, especially the featherboard stack.
I make a small band saw power feeder in kit form (mine is usable on table saws and router tables too) that would make this kind of work easier yet, providing steady feed as slow as you need.
@
With a finely-tuned bandsaw, you can get pretty darn thin. But the thinner you go, the more difficult it is. So I usually like to stay in the 1/8" or 3/32" range.
i cant believe how smoothe your bandsaw is. Mine's 24" pm and i think i need to replace the tires (which i have) but holly cow theyre not easy to change!
Great video! I’ve always known that elves are good with working.
wonderfull video friend, im a longboarder and am thinking of making my own, very helpfull, but i'll be cutting 8x3's from my local lumber yard and my cuts are going to be 4 and a half feet lol, thanks though man!!!
Yup just me. Oddly enough, I might be moving very soon and I will have to downsize the shop a bit. But I used to work in a small garage so I am no stranger to tight quarters, despite being spoiled for the past 4 years. :)
Hi. Thanks for the video. Do you offer this as a service? I have some 100 year old wood I want to use but need it veneered without doing it myself. That service seem impossible to find.
@papadonto8 You can do it with any wood, really. That's what makes veneering so great. You can take any wood you want and make it last a long time. Or make an entire table top from one piece of wood. And in your case, re-skin a door. If you do decide to do a bunch of these doors, you may want to look into vacuum press.
Dang bro. 15 years ago.. respect
yes that would work quite well as a floating panel. i dont want to arguee. its just interesting to see how every woodworker dose thing slightly different then the next. I studyed with Mark Paddison threw Humber College in Toronto. keep up the videos, i do like your design taste, how many people work in that shop?
You can effectively resaw veneer on a basic 14" bandsaw. I know MANY folks who do it. Select the right blade, tune up the saw, and you're good to go.
@dchamberss Usually I just use what I have on hand. I don't consider the strength differences between I, II, and III to be dramatic enough to justify stocking them all and using them selectively based on strength. So I base my decisions on what I have on hand at the time and how much water the piece will see.
As for my training, I worked with David Marks for a short time, and I spent about a year working in a refinishing shop. The rest (most) is self-training and studying.
Using this veneering tech you could make two of any project out of the same amount of solid wood. That's the point. Veneers in days really gone by were much thicker than the 'toilet-tissue' we get these days, so this is a way of making your timber go further, plus you can clean up with a plane afterwards. Try that with modern veneers.
@missionron yeah replacing tires is a real pain in the butt!
@Yaridnac If I recall correctly they were probably just 18ga.
It really depends on how well-tuned your drum sander is. I know guys who have it so well tuned that they pretty much make paper thin sheets of veneer just for fun. So You can pretty much go as thin as you dare.
generally when i use veener i vacuume press it with a solids glued on the edge of my substraight that way my veneer covers both the substraight and the solid edging, leaving a clean edge. with 1/8" or 3/16" veneer the endgrain of the veneer is much more noticable. i guess that apeals to some to look good.
@TheWoodWhisperer thanks for the lesson! I know this is an old video but still relevant. Hopefully you will respond...can you please tell me what you use to wax your fence and should I also wax my other machines? Are there any I should not? Should I wax blades?
@DuctTaper98 There are many places on line that sell veneer. One that I really like is Veneer Supplies.
Some hobby stores sell several types of wood (mahogany, walnut, cherry, etc.) in 2 ft. lengths that are 3 inches wide in a number of different thicknesses (1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 in.); which is close to the same size as you can do on a table saw. And they aren't very expensive (usually less than $2 each.) The only drawback is that you can't get the nice figure and grain patterns as you might from a home sawn veneer. You just have to find the right store.
Generally anything less than 1/8" is considered veneer. Treating the end grain using home sawn veneer is no different than when you use any other veneer. You still need to cover up the ugly substrate. At around 3/32", these thick veneers are quite stable even over wide surfaces. And I agree that you would want to veneer both sides to maintain equilibrium.
Can you do the same thing with 2X6 and 2X4 since my idea is to buy slab doors and veneer them with natural wood designs. I don't have a band saw but my friend does. Any tips on this? Also thanks for your answer on my previous question.
It isn't ideal, but you can cut thin pieces at the tablesaw. Might need so add-ons to make it safe though. And you won't be able to do really wide pieces.
I need to cut 1 inch white oak boards down the middle and need a machine that can provide me with good constant cuts. What is the widest boards I can do consistently or can you go as high as the machine can allow? Have you seen a horizontal bandsaw and is it better to go with this or a normal bandsaw for the job I described. Thanks for a good video!
first off great video , I own a wood Mizer LT 35 saw Mill ,I have some very good black walnut I would like to make some veneer ,what is the very best band saw for this task ? can I do a 12" wide board ? ty n
I know this video was quite a while ago but hoping you can tell me what SFPM you run your saw at? Or do you vary it depending on blade pitch/width and/or type of wood being cut? Thank you.
Oh didn't know about the amazon thing... I'll starting using that to help yeah out :)
Marc is right. I resaw on a 14" Grizzly just fine. The only thing I've done is put polyurethane tires and a Woodslicer resaw blade on it.
i love how over built your fence is, screws nails and glue and it coulda used half the supports!
totally the same thing i would have done! keep on with the great videos
Ohh 240p we meet again
Ucelo Also, lots of hard-surface "room color" will proclaim to the world, "my ceilings are high and you're not." It takes real courage to avoid a body or shotgun mic - especially when your better half works in worldwide *showbiz* (remember, we kid because we love. Or sometimes are pathologically jealous. But mostly love) 😂
Best surface to glue these to? mdf or veneer core plywood? And with that, what issues are there with expansion/contraction? I do know that a veneer should be on both sides of a panel for balance. Great video.
+Patrick Crowe MDF.
When I look at a bandsaw on Amazon I don't see the horsepower? How do you find that information?
@FSSCHANGE I guess if you can find a way to bend the ends without splitting it, you probably can.
what machinery would i need for a 1/17th of an inch thick veneer about 9 inches wide?
The tendency of the blade to not cut parallel with the miter slot.
I am watch most of Marc’s videos from oldest to newest. Why? I seem to continue to find new tips. This time it was gluing up thin wood planks using tape. I used clamps before and it always warped the overall panel. I bet that problem is gone.
How to prevent veneer you just cut from warping prior to glue down?
I think this video has the closest subs to views
Good work!
Is that the thinnest you can cut at home? Or can it be cut at 1/32?
good job
Excellent! Thank you :-)
Hi, what size brad nails do you use for this project? Cool Video Thx!
I agree that 1/8"-3/16" would give a pretty noticeable border. I suppose some might like it. But the veneer I am talking about in this video is bandsawn at about 1/8" and sanded down to 3/32". Thats starting to get thin enough that the endgrain becomes less and less of an issue.
But ultimately, to each his own. Many folks just trim out the veneered board after the veneering is done, which gives a noticeable border regardless of the veneer thickness. And same thing when making panels.
could i substitute the band saw with a table saw????
@mqmqmwmw The brand is Festool.
nice bandsaw - powermatic?
do you set your fence for drift before re sawing?
Whats the brand of the black/green cordless drill ?
i dont consider that a veneer. it is rather thick and what do you do with the end grain? (say on a table top) glued to a sub-straight it could be quite unstable and it is not economical givin that with that thickness of veneer. both sides of the sub-straight will be required to be veneered in order to maintain stability. thats my position. Mean whyle commercial veneers can often be quite thin.
Use a protein glue for a better result, hide glues will do
pretty much like prepping veneers for building musical instruments!!
Any suggestions for an affordable bandsaw with enough cut height and a 3/4" blade for the hobby woodworker that I am ? Atm I only have a very cheap small bandsaw but I'm thinking about an step up that's not more than a grand...
+Soulleecher i have a craftsman 14" bas350 that i love. i think it's the same as a rikon 14" 10-32 but $150 cheaper. i've used it for 2 years to make 3 boats, and 6 tables. it resaws well, it's smooth and powerful. i have never wished for a bigger one.
+Richard Wagner thanks a lot.
I looked into that saw it's a good value.
Doesn't come with a fence but like dude said you just make one for resawing one for standard rip you just gave and edge joint a piece of dimensional chamfer the lower edge for a dust relief and clamp it down.
Nice thing about that saw is the blade front loads.
honestly, it's actually not much cheaper. I wanted to cut my own out of an ebony board. But Stewmac has pre-radiused and slotted fingerboards. Saves a lot of time and headache knowing that it's accurate. you can cut a 3/8" thick piece from a board an mill it flat to clean it up then cut the slots and then use a radius block and some 60 grit paper to get the radius but believe me with the price of ebony Stewmac is way better. everything's done for you and you know it'll be accurate
No argument here. Just different ways of accomplishing a task. And I actually have a one-man shop. Its all me. :)
I dream to have tools for wood work. With 10.000 usd. How i can buy tools same your tools?
are looking forward to your advice and help
Where do you live? In the US, you can just order them on Amazon. With a $10k budget you'll have a really awesome shop, but not quite like Marc's. Just that bandsaw you see in the video is over $4000. But perfectly decent brands like Grizzly or Rikon are already a lot less, and there is a flourishing market for used tools. In other countries, your mileage may vary. Some countries do not have anywhere near the stock of quality used tools floating around that you find in the US, and in some places imported tools are sold at ridiculous markups (sometimes due to tariffs). Check out youtubers like Matthias Wandel, John Heisz, and "stumpy nubs" for some great homemade tool designs.
thank you
can you make a fingerboard with the home cut veneer ?
so i'm not the only one lmao
I would like to see this done to be as smooth as a planed surface? you did say glue ready? or do we have different standards for glueing also how wide of a board are we talking about ? variables mate variables like it is said the devil is in the details
You want a planed surface from a bandsaw? Not going to happen. :) By glue-ready I simply mean free of ridges and the washboard effect. The surface might still be rough to some extent. Keep in mind, glue ready is not the same as finish ready. As for width, the bandsaw should be able to handle whatever width you can fit under it. But the wider the board, the more stress on the saw and the more perfect your setup needs to be.
Hello? Sir? what the h is drift? thank you!
What is drift angle?
how thin can you make them? i want mine 2mm is that possible?
apinakapinastorba oh thanks alot! i didnt really hear what he said as english isnt my first lang and im not very good at it
is there a way to make it thinner, because I want to make a wooden fingerboard?
I cut my own "veneers" for acoustic guitar tops which finish at about 4mm. A fingerboard would probably be thicker to allow for the fret cuts. For thinner veneer on say a cabinet door I drum sand to about 3mm, glue the veneer onto its panel, then sand the panel if I want the veneer thinner.
hi
Um...thanks! :)
where do i get commercial veneer?
challenge bros lumber yard, lowes, home depot and such
7:51 spongebob pencil!
Are you saying amateurs don't own bandsaws?!
Haha, not in my world they aren't. :)
can you make one on a video if you can please and if your nice u can send it to me?
Just use the blade that came with your $4000 saw ;-)
@samson1520022000 Absolutely!
I was finally able to drop $2800 on a nice bandsaw and found this video while looking around TH-cam. I stopped watching this channel years ago. I forgot how good it was before all the merciless product shilling ruined it.
tight quarters are always associated to woodworking shops for some reason. haha. its all about making things work. i have a electric hoist that my 4'x8' veneer press is hung on and it hangs in the cieling above the table saw. iv seen some small shops that are just are amazingly orginized.
Vorbeste mult prea mult si face treba putina,in schimb se crede mare actor.
7:46*
Thank you
@@albertqss bro i dont even remember my comment on this
videos*
2017!!
2007
I started my adventure with wood thanks to plans from the Stodoys.
Thanks! Very well done!