Hello everyone! It has been 2 years since I have posted this video and I thought I would give a late update. I do not have the car anymore, I drove it after this video up the road and back and a few times around the yard however even though a lot was done in this video there was still a lot the car needed. Well I was still working on the car however at the beginning of 2023 I was then out of a job. I was making very little money at the time and was relying basically on what I could sell and my savings so work on the car halted. It still had some major issues like the carburetor needing replaced, the old manifold being in incredible bad shape and warped, and worst of all shortly after this video something went wrong in the wiring harness, which I expected since it had been having a few issues for some time. So at this point it could no longer be driven. However with no job and relying on savings I had to sell the car. I do plan on doing more car videos in the future however life has been difficult financially so it will be quite some time. As for my next project, I plan on going all out and doing possible a series on a whole restoration.
Great video like the old school, outdoors nice summer day I pulled a few engines on a maple tree branch. The only thing missing is classic rock in the background
I have a '71 Maverick with a 200. Due to space limitations, I'll only be doing the valves, lifters, and timing chain/gears. Thanks for the detail video, it'll help me!
Great video, but use graphics on screen to explain each action including sending to machine shop to polish cylinders, what are new parts and what are reused. Also explain things like pistons dropping out of sight
Got a 70 Falcon wagon. Same engine. The most trouble free, dependable daily for the past 24 yrs. Granted there's no power brakes, no power steering. No AC. Just good clean fun. Give 350 dollars for it. Carry on.
Had a 1972 Maverick. Was court ordered to sell it in my divorce. Had it before I met her. It loved me more than she did. I also had a great cat that was also named Maverick. She got him too. Miss that cat. Now I only see him when I pay alimony. But anyhoo always fun to build inline 6's.
It's not hard but just make sure you really pay attention to the details of every step. It wasn't shown in the video but there were times when I had to backtrack on my work because I would miss something small. And the little things can really mean a different between a running engine and a ruined engine.
Did you did something to thr pistons? Clean them or are they new ones? Also awesome video daamn clean work! Can you do more videos like this!!! Awesome!
after you drop the crank in, dont spin it. then, after the bearings are in the caps put lube on the bearing. torque it down. we try to keep the mating surfaces clean.
You never mentioned yet how much it cost to get your block back after honing, milling etc? Also, you forgot to lube sides of thrust bearing and you dont rotate crank until its torgued as its out of round until torqued and will scuff bearings
After getting the block and head done it was around $1000 I think. The block was only 400 but the head was 600 because it was in rough shape and needed a lot of work. Obviously it will vary depending on who you go to. Getting the crank done was I think another $250. Although I have never heard or seen anyone lube the sides of the thrust bearings and from what I have read you don't want to lube the thrust bearing side facing the piston rod.
can't remember off the top of my head but I think the final torque on the crank was 90lbs and then 75lbs on the head. For the connecting rods it was probably somewhere around 35
rebuild kit was around 500 but the cost of having everything done to the block and head was around 1000. It probably wouldn't be this expensive for most people though because this engine was old and needed a lot of work.
@@lance740 Doesnt sound that bad, considering this guy in canada wants about 4200 usd for similar mild refresh of a ford 390FE and other canadians want 700 usd for well used but running inline 6 300s. hopefully my truck with 390FE lasts 50,000 miles more than the already 118,000 miles on it.
Una pregunta amigo, tengo un motor 250 std , y no tiene mucho desgaste lo quiero volver armar sin reftificar , y le compre todos los repuesto a medida estandar , los anillos se los compre a medida 0.20,
250 block is one inch taller. Timing cover and chain/sprockets, water pump and bellhousing bolt pattern are different. Everything else is interchangeable.
People always insist on turning the crankshaft before torquing down the main caps. Your bearings aren’t properly round until they are torqued. Spinning the crank like that can lead to a scuffed bearing or main journal on the crank.
The shock towers? Yes, I went from a 250 to a 302 in a 73 maverick and it fit right in. However you have to buy a specific water pump, headers, and engine mounts to make it work. It is an incredibly tight squeeze.
I agree, I think making the intake casted straight to the head is this motors biggest downfall and I switched to a Weber 32/36 carb because I have had nothing but problems with RBS carbs and I've tried 3 or 4 different ones on this engine and gave up because not a single one would run properly. Its upsetting given how reliable this engine is.
@@jacquelinechellis4036 They are cast intakes. Very hard to mill and weld cast metal. Esp. old cast metal. Would be very very difficult unless you are highly skilled and owned a high dollar welder. Then its a crap shoot. To be honest swapping to a a 300 six or 302 v8 would be cheaper and easier. There are extremely expensive and rare aluminium heads that were made for 250s by Vintage Inlines but finding one wont be easy or cheap. Australian Ford made cross flow heads as well but again hard to find one in US and will not be cheap. I dont think they are a direct bolt on as well to a US made 250 there is something you have do but i cant recall its been a while since i read about the swap. I was gonna build a 250 for a Maverick I had. After research I decided to go with a 302.and ditched the 250. Shame though the 250 is a great engine low end but that head and intake is just horrible.
At 33:00 you proceed to install a bearing. You do this while holding the parts in mid-air like a child. This is advised while working on anything in this world. At 36:00 you proceed to install the camshaft, not giving regard to the fact that two hands are required to install it. Instead, you force this issue by not letting go of the pre-lube bottle and forcing the camshaft in. "More pre-lube is needed" versus "more care is needed". Advice: Watch how other people do things before doing them yourself. At 38:30 you show yourself sanding a piston ring but there is no gap measurement tool that should be in use to determine is gap is proper. So it looks like you are only mimicking a behavior without a goal or purpose. I find it most disturbing you are assembling this engine in the front yard and no worktable. Most disturbing. At 43:30 it is disturbing you are using an open hammer to drive a pin. Consider a course of instruction on using the right tool for the job, particularly in this genre. At 44:00 you are shown installing hydraulic lifters with grit on your fingers and outer gloves. Huge mistake. At 45:00 you are shown installing a quality timing chain but no regard for pre-oiling the chain!!! At 50:00 again, wrong tool for the job. Tearing up the nut and making little progress. At 52:00 no pre-lube on the push rods. At 54:00 you won the stupid approach to installing a distributor award.
Thank for the comment! At 33:00 I install the bearing in the air because I already had my camera set up in that position as it was in the previous few shots and I wanted to get it on camera. At 36:00 camshaft went in fine, yea I could of used to hands, but I was being extremely careful. At 38:30 I wasn't sanding the piston rings to change the gap, I did check the gap but I had probably over 10 hours of footage to go through and I just lost it. I was sanding the razor sharp corners as I have seen other people do to "prevent scoring from new rings". How true that is I don't entirely know, I've just heard it's something you should do and have seen other people on youtube do it, so I do it. The goal isn't to really take off that much material, just to make them ever so slightly less sharp. At 43:30 yes I used a hammer, I didn't have a tool and I read in forums that a lot of people just used a hammer to gently tap it in. It's a solid steel bead, a gentle tap from a hammer isn't the end of the world. Yes I know I scuffed the camshaft retention plate a little but that small scuff isn't going to hurt it functionally. At 44:00 there was no grit on my gloves and clearly the oil that does appear on my gloves is from installing the lifters. As you can see at 44:20-44:30 the black oil gets on my gloves from reaching in to install the lifters. But at 44:30-44:35 when I reach back in the install the other lifter, my glove has been cleaned. This is because I know this, and I wiped off my hands to install the next one. At 45:00 yes I am aware I forgot to pre-oil the chain. Trust me I have gone back and have found many mistakes in this video. When doing this rebuild I could only afford a week off of work so I was rushing towards the end and a few things slipped my mind. At 50:00 the water pump nuts were already beat up. This is because I couldn't afford to buy new ones so I used the old ones. And the water pump was jump the old one sprayed over because again, I could afford a new one so I used the functioning old one. At 52:00, yes I know. Just another thing I had forgot. But they were already covered in oil so it most likely would of been fine. At 54:00 I've seen a dozens people install them the same way in videos and in person. "Just line up timing mark on the balancer and then the distributor and drop it in", is what I have been told. There are probably better ways or tools, but I've never had an issues this way. Yes I know I didn't use a lot of proper tools and the majority of larger tools in this video are either borrowed or rented so I couldn't afford every proper tool out there. I'm fully aware I did this in my front yard on the hood of my car and "not on a worktable". I'm in my twenties and I'm very poor, not everyone can afford a nice garage or worktable. It took nearly a 6 months to save up the $2,500 for all of the tools and expenses to have the block machined and the transmission rebuilt and the rebuild kits for both. I was doing it for the love of the hobby and to make a decent driver not an actionable show car.
Hello everyone! It has been 2 years since I have posted this video and I thought I would give a late update. I do not have the car anymore, I drove it after this video up the road and back and a few times around the yard however even though a lot was done in this video there was still a lot the car needed. Well I was still working on the car however at the beginning of 2023 I was then out of a job. I was making very little money at the time and was relying basically on what I could sell and my savings so work on the car halted.
It still had some major issues like the carburetor needing replaced, the old manifold being in incredible bad shape and warped, and worst of all shortly after this video something went wrong in the wiring harness, which I expected since it had been having a few issues for some time. So at this point it could no longer be driven. However with no job and relying on savings I had to sell the car. I do plan on doing more car videos in the future however life has been difficult financially so it will be quite some time.
As for my next project, I plan on going all out and doing possible a series on a whole restoration.
It's awesome build thanks for showing 😊😊
Greetings friend, why does the tappet box have 16 if the engine only uses 12?
Anything with a Maverick gets an instant thumbs 👍🏼
Great video like the old school, outdoors nice summer day I pulled a few engines on a maple tree branch. The only thing missing is classic rock in the background
Great job bro !!!
We need more videos like yours. To preserve memories and encourage new generation to start working on cars 😃
1970 maverick with a 200 was my very first car. Very nostalgic for me. Thank you.
I enjoyed watching your rebuild. Very meticulous work! Maverick was my very first car back in 1969. The first ones were sold late 1969.
I have a '71 Maverick with a 200. Due to space limitations, I'll only be doing the valves, lifters, and timing chain/gears. Thanks for the detail video, it'll help me!
Un joven muy experto, lo felicito, y hacia delante.
Buen video .. saludos desde argentina 🇦🇷
Good video. Gotta love a Ford inline 6.
Great Video! Brings back memories. I did a complete rebuild on one these many years ago out of an Australian Ford Cortina, Cheers
That was a great video! Good details and looks awesome!
Es una chulada el mundo de la mecánica gracias por subir este video donde le das su mantenimiento a este motor 🧐
Awesome video!! I’ve been wanting to rebuild the motor in my ford ranchero with a 250ci from a 76 Granada thanks!
Would've loved to see more The Muffler installed and all but I enjoyed the video 😊😊👍👍
I've always wanted to rebuild an I6. You did great for your first rebuild. I engined this video very much.
Great rebuild. Keep going
Nice big extension
Great video, but use graphics on screen to explain each action including sending to machine shop to polish cylinders, what are new parts and what are reused. Also explain things like pistons dropping out of sight
Very good engine design. One thing that carburetor though!
thank you for sharing my friend great job
Good job rebuilding that motor I like that video I'll be watching more of your videos I just subscribed to it have a good day
Pretty good editing too
Nice. Interesting to see the diff between that and my 300. like there is a timing chain also no rockers.
Got a 70 Falcon wagon. Same engine. The most trouble free, dependable daily for the past 24 yrs. Granted there's no power brakes, no power steering. No AC. Just good clean fun. Give 350 dollars for it. Carry on.
Had one,23 mpg plenty of torque. Nice car.
What did you do when u cut the video in between trying to start the first time and starting the second
GREAT JOB...KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK...Doing a 66 Mustang with a 200 cu. in.
Yazmin
Venice Beach CA
🏁👍🏁👍🏁👍😎😎⛱️🏄♀️🏁🏄♀️⛱️⛱️⛱️⛱️⛱️⛱️
El motor de mi falcon(ave), muy lindo, te felicito!!
Had a 1972 Maverick. Was court ordered to sell it in my divorce. Had it before I met her. It loved me more than she did. I also had a great cat that was also named Maverick. She got him too. Miss that cat. Now I only see him when I pay alimony. But anyhoo always fun to build inline 6's.
very nice!
We're did you buy all you parts
I get my rebuild kits from www.cleggengine.com/
I recommend
Nice video
Were did you get the oil pan from?
Ebay
Thanks for the video. Do u think rebuilding a motor like this is hard. I'm wondering of I can rebuild my own motor
It's not hard but just make sure you really pay attention to the details of every step. It wasn't shown in the video but there were times when I had to backtrack on my work because I would miss something small. And the little things can really mean a different between a running engine and a ruined engine.
kinda got a blair witch vibe. cool
Que pasa cuando la cadena del motor Ford 200 sefi está mala que fallas produce
Cuanto le pones de torque en los tornillos
Nice build! Can this 250ci be matted to a ford T5? Thanks in advance
The 250 has a Windsor V8 bellhousing pattern so yes, t5 swap is easy.
Did you did something to thr pistons? Clean them or are they new ones? Also awesome video daamn clean work! Can you do more videos like this!!! Awesome!
after you drop the crank in, dont spin it. then, after the bearings are in the caps put lube on the bearing. torque it down. we try to keep the mating surfaces clean.
De cuantas cilindradas es el motor???
You never mentioned yet how much it cost to get your block back after honing, milling etc?
Also, you forgot to lube sides of thrust bearing and you dont rotate crank until its torgued as its out of round until torqued and will scuff bearings
After getting the block and head done it was around $1000 I think. The block was only 400 but the head was 600 because it was in rough shape and needed a lot of work.
Obviously it will vary depending on who you go to.
Getting the crank done was I think another $250.
Although I have never heard or seen anyone lube the sides of the thrust bearings and from what I have read you don't want to lube the thrust bearing side facing the piston rod.
Greetings, what torque do you use to tighten the crankshaft bearings, the connecting rods and the cylinder head?
can't remember off the top of my head but I think the final torque on the crank was 90lbs and then 75lbs on the head. For the connecting rods it was probably somewhere around 35
Where did you get the rebuild kit from
www.cleggengine.com/engine-rebuild-kits.html
what was turn around time on getting block cleaned, magnafluxed, decked honed etc? COst?
cost of rebuild kit?
rebuild kit was around 500 but the cost of having everything done to the block and head was around 1000. It probably wouldn't be this expensive for most people though because this engine was old and needed a lot of work.
@@lance740
Doesnt sound that bad, considering this guy in canada wants about 4200 usd for similar mild refresh of a ford 390FE and other canadians want 700 usd for well used but running inline 6 300s.
hopefully my truck with 390FE lasts 50,000 miles more than the already 118,000 miles on it.
did u bore it over or just a hone
This was a few years ago and I no longer have the car but I think it was .30 over
Gracias desde vzla
Hi! How oil clearance ?
Es 250?. Acá en argentina hay hasta 221
Great builds Mr lance very helpfull,continúe My bros a& i have mavericks,& broncos with online dices thanks continúe ,Say hello Jorge.
Cross flow head will bolt straight on..
Yes, but hard to to get one in the USA.
I’m looking at doing a 250 replacement for my 67 mustang. The 200 is a little weak
Cual es la diferencia entre los dos 200 y 250
@@manuelrojas4069 la mayor parte de la diferencia es interna. Diámetro más grande y carrera ligeramente más larga.
Una pregunta amigo, tengo un motor 250 std , y no tiene mucho desgaste lo quiero volver armar sin reftificar , y le compre todos los repuesto a medida estandar , los anillos se los compre a medida 0.20,
Que opinion me daria usted, cree que podra aver algun problemas
250 block is one inch taller. Timing cover and chain/sprockets, water pump and bellhousing bolt pattern are different. Everything else is interchangeable.
Someone had did a headgasket at minimum on that because the factory headgasket is a metal shim style and half the thickness of the aftermarket ones
Not a 250..was on early smaller capacity engines..
@@neilasd3043 wrong. I pulled apart my original 250 and it had a metal shim gasket so you don't know what you are talking about.
Too many uneducated TH-cam mechanics. 250 cui don't have steel head gaskets from factory if yours did some clown stuffed up..
Una pregunta lo reftificaste
I have the same engine in a 1977 Ford Maverick 4 door, I am having some troubles ,
Limited to almost no talking...just the way I like it all action
bravoo
Расточка цилиндров, хонингование, шлифовка поверхности... нет, не слышал! Просто помою и покрашу и все будет хорошо!
Alguien me puede decir otro vídeo parecido a este, que sea de motor Ford mavericks, mi carro es año 77
Just a weeny bit of advice from someone thats been in the game for 50 years, you’ve got an impact gun use it.
On YOUR engine boy, on YOUR engine.
Buenas alguien me podría facilitar tabla o Manuel de torquimetro del motor
Torque specs as well
People always insist on turning the crankshaft before torquing down the main caps. Your bearings aren’t properly round until they are torqued. Spinning the crank like that can lead to a scuffed bearing or main journal on the crank.
Won't start, The End... Lol
WHY WAS THERE 16 LIFTERS?
does melling make modular camshafts and lifter kits that fit v8s and inline 6s? lmao
❤
Housing 250 is same 289?
The shock towers? Yes, I went from a 250 to a 302 in a 73 maverick and it fit right in.
However you have to buy a specific water pump, headers, and engine mounts to make it work. It is an incredibly tight squeeze.
@@lance740 like
Great motor but that log intake and carb are straight up junk. One of Fords poorest designs ever.
I agree, I think making the intake casted straight to the head is this motors biggest downfall and I switched to a Weber 32/36 carb because I have had nothing but problems with RBS carbs and I've tried 3 or 4 different ones on this engine and gave up because not a single one would run properly.
Its upsetting given how reliable this engine is.
You could mill the log surface
flat and make flange spacers and run six carbs. All direct shot to intake runners
@@jacquelinechellis4036 They are cast intakes. Very hard to mill and weld cast metal. Esp. old cast metal. Would be very very difficult unless you are highly skilled and owned a high dollar welder. Then its a crap shoot. To be honest swapping to a a 300 six or 302 v8 would be cheaper and easier.
There are extremely expensive and rare aluminium heads that were made for 250s by Vintage Inlines but finding one wont be easy or cheap. Australian Ford made cross flow heads as well but again hard to find one in US and will not be cheap. I dont think they are a direct bolt on as well to a US made 250 there is something you have do but i cant recall its been a while since i read about the swap. I was gonna build a 250 for a Maverick I had. After research I decided to go with a 302.and ditched the 250. Shame though the 250 is a great engine low end but that head and intake is just horrible.
MEAN!
At 33:00 you proceed to install a bearing. You do this while holding the parts in mid-air like a child. This is advised while working on anything in this world. At 36:00 you proceed to install the camshaft, not giving regard to the fact that two hands are required to install it. Instead, you force this issue by not letting go of the pre-lube bottle and forcing the camshaft in. "More pre-lube is needed" versus "more care is needed". Advice: Watch how other people do things before doing them yourself. At 38:30 you show yourself sanding a piston ring but there is no gap measurement tool that should be in use to determine is gap is proper. So it looks like you are only mimicking a behavior without a goal or purpose. I find it most disturbing you are assembling this engine in the front yard and no worktable. Most disturbing. At 43:30 it is disturbing you are using an open hammer to drive a pin. Consider a course of instruction on using the right tool for the job, particularly in this genre. At 44:00 you are shown installing hydraulic lifters with grit on your fingers and outer gloves. Huge mistake. At 45:00 you are shown installing a quality timing chain but no regard for pre-oiling the chain!!! At 50:00 again, wrong tool for the job. Tearing up the nut and making little progress. At 52:00 no pre-lube on the push rods. At 54:00 you won the stupid approach to installing a distributor award.
Thank for the comment!
At 33:00 I install the bearing in the air because I already had my camera set up in that position as it was in the previous few shots and I wanted to get it on camera.
At 36:00 camshaft went in fine, yea I could of used to hands, but I was being extremely careful.
At 38:30 I wasn't sanding the piston rings to change the gap, I did check the gap but I had probably over 10 hours of footage to go through and I just lost it. I was sanding the razor sharp corners as I have seen other people do to "prevent scoring from new rings". How true that is I don't entirely know, I've just heard it's something you should do and have seen other people on youtube do it, so I do it. The goal isn't to really take off that much material, just to make them ever so slightly less sharp.
At 43:30 yes I used a hammer, I didn't have a tool and I read in forums that a lot of people just used a hammer to gently tap it in. It's a solid steel bead, a gentle tap from a hammer isn't the end of the world. Yes I know I scuffed the camshaft retention plate a little but that small scuff isn't going to hurt it functionally.
At 44:00 there was no grit on my gloves and clearly the oil that does appear on my gloves is from installing the lifters. As you can see at 44:20-44:30 the black oil gets on my gloves from reaching in to install the lifters. But at 44:30-44:35 when I reach back in the install the other lifter, my glove has been cleaned. This is because I know this, and I wiped off my hands to install the next one.
At 45:00 yes I am aware I forgot to pre-oil the chain. Trust me I have gone back and have found many mistakes in this video. When doing this rebuild I could only afford a week off of work so I was rushing towards the end and a few things slipped my mind.
At 50:00 the water pump nuts were already beat up. This is because I couldn't afford to buy new ones so I used the old ones. And the water pump was jump the old one sprayed over because again, I could afford a new one so I used the functioning old one.
At 52:00, yes I know. Just another thing I had forgot. But they were already covered in oil so it most likely would of been fine.
At 54:00 I've seen a dozens people install them the same way in videos and in person. "Just line up timing mark on the balancer and then the distributor and drop it in", is what I have been told. There are probably better ways or tools, but I've never had an issues this way.
Yes I know I didn't use a lot of proper tools and the majority of larger tools in this video are either borrowed or rented so I couldn't afford every proper tool out there. I'm fully aware I did this in my front yard on the hood of my car and "not on a worktable". I'm in my twenties and I'm very poor, not everyone can afford a nice garage or worktable. It took nearly a 6 months to save up the $2,500 for all of the tools and expenses to have the block machined and the transmission rebuilt and the rebuild kits for both. I was doing it for the love of the hobby and to make a decent driver not an actionable show car.
Ford built a 240 and a 300.
in argentina this engine ,change cylinder cover 24v . Take 500 hp th-cam.com/users/shortsUdh0Mil17Ys
put that hammer away. this is a bad video.
had this maybe should have kept it kids we want v8 not grannies motor
hay muchos errores en el armado del monoblock
What tool and size did you use to take off the valve cover