I watch a lot of channels and take ideas from any that show good tips. Mainly because no one shows everything you need to know. I have never seen some of the things you pointed out that I think are really important. Thank you.
My dad and i are rebuilding (1600cc) the top half, basically dp heads and 1641 slip kit pistons. We've never been this deep in this and this video is really helpful.
We havent taken off the heads or pistons yet so we dont know the condition of the bottom end. We do not have enough of the knowledge or experience to crack the block so we are hoping everything is nice and tight (or how its supposed too be).
Thanks! I've been getting a bunch of requests for more detailed info on maintenance and repairs. I'm going to try to get into a carb rebuild and distributers, brakes, clutch, etc. Give the people what they want!
nice ,,,, i was told years ago just when i started playing with these air cooled engines " do not use a clicker " on a air cooled ,,,,but after watching all sorts of videos everyone does it ,,,,,,i do not though but who cares LOL ,,,,thanks
Couple of things I think should be done, 1--Use the recommended torque pattern 2--Leave the pushrods out of the tubes till ready to bolt on the rockers. You should take a look at the tubes and make sure they are crushing in straight, if they start to go crooked use a 3/8 long extension and insert it into the tube and you can adjust it. I have had motors where the tube was so out of alignment that the pushrod rubbed on the tube and wore a hole through it and allowed the oil to eventually drain out seizing the motor. 3--Lube the ends of the pushrods with a dab of grease so they don't wear upon start up. 4--A decent torque wrench will work at low torque values.
hi there. @6:07, you mentioned that theres some oil by the piston and that the head looks oilier than cyl4. What does that typically mean other than the fact that your engine has been sitting for a while? another question is, what if the head is on there tight? what is the best way to remove them without damaging anything. I have a 1641 DP and its burning a ton of oil but doesnt smoke. Plugs are not fouled and the motor sounds good, runs good and cranks evenly. Safe to say that the rings are good? just need to replace the heads?
Really helpful and clear video my friend. Thank you. One on piston rings would be great. Or signpost me if you’ve already done one? I’ll work my way through all your content anyways as I enjoy your style.
Another Q - New head came in w/ the 8 double end threaded studs that require insertion. OK.. double nut install w/ washer between ? Torque Lbs ? Locktite ? What color Locktite ? Advice ? thanks - Pg
by the way are stock engines cases available at a decent price anymore ? i never did a vw yet but did 440s 350s in the past ,,,,as i get old i just wanna ride them not work on them ,,,,but at today's prices and undependable work being done out there i way have to do one myself now ,,,,,,thank you for the nice vid ,,,,i did subscribe cause i liked it ,,,,
New cases are available from some of the parts houses. Autolinea make a very nice case. Most of the time we buy a used engine and have the case cleaned and checked. They can be align bored and thrust cut for new bearings and put back into service. It's important to have them checked beforehand as the magnesium can have hairline cracks or become brittle if it sits out in the weather for too long.
@@OldVolksTV thank you up to now i been using rebuilt old cases ,,,and somehow i am always told the bearing got beat so bad you need another case LOL ,,,,,i should do it mysefl maybe is a hint for me ? thank you
Hi got a 1600 71 supa beetle cylinders 3/4 are not firing any idea what to look for to start with , new sparks, Leeds, cap n rotor , coil , cleaned carby still same
I took off my engine 5-6 years ago as the spark-plug would keep blowing off along with helicoil. I thought of replacing both heads. Problem im facing is gaining access to bolts of heads. Im stuck at taking exh-manifolds off as the bolts are rusted. I applied wd-40 & heat but im afraid i may melt something inside with applying too much heat to the bolts 🤷🏻♂️
You probably won't melt anything, the exhaust gets pretty hot anyways. Try some PB blaster and a solid "tap" with a hammer. I've had some pretty stuck bolts come off easy that way.
@@OldVolksTV Gotcha! And just making sure that I do need to take the manifolds off in order to get the heads off. Seems like its in the way. Thank You!
one question if i may, i have disconnected the engine and brought it half way down to remove the passenger cylinder head. I have removed both nuts off of the intake dual port manifold but i cant move it upward to clear the studs to take it off, because, well, the mono tube is anchored down. I cant remove the engine tin above the cylinder head either because the 4 bolts on top are obstructed by it - Do I need to disconnect the generator support stand / bracket now ? What all needs to come off working with what I got w/ what i described to take the head off? - thanks..Pg
Its easier to pull the motor completely out. The generator stand, intake, fan shroud, and head tin needs to be removed to gain access. It's also easier to work the head off if you have access to the whole thing.
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I watch a lot of channels and take ideas from any that show good tips. Mainly because no one shows everything you need to know. I have never seen some of the things you pointed out that I think are really important. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Glad we could help.
I’m having to do this myself now. I think the rings have gone. Great video 😊
My dad and i are rebuilding (1600cc) the top half, basically dp heads and 1641 slip kit pistons. We've never been this deep in this and this video is really helpful.
Thanks! It's not so bad if you take your time!
We havent taken off the heads or pistons yet so we dont know the condition of the bottom end. We do not have enough of the knowledge or experience to crack the block so we are hoping everything is nice and tight (or how its supposed too be).
Thanks for the shout out! Good video
Always!
my guess is that you parked the other VW vehicle in front of the camera just on Purpose . lol :-) thank you for your videos
🤣
Thanks, very clear explanation! I'm doing exactly this right now, and this helped a LOT!
Awesome! Glad to help!
Really good video. I’ll be doing this in a couple of days and actually looking forward to it now.
It's not too bad. Just take your time and do one side at a time.
Thanks for all your advice. I’m picking up my case today from the machine shop to do my first engine build.
Sweet! Check back for more tips in a couple weeks!
Good video! You explaine so well!
Great video and awesome info! Love the shirt too 👍
Great video, thank you! 👍👊🏼
Great tip on the pushrod tubes and I enjoyed the video.
Thanks!
thanks for your efforts, knowledge, saavy, experience and may you be blessed with tens of thousands of women in return...rich women !
Haha. Uuummm..... thanks. And Thanks for watching!
Good episode, all others I've seen on breaking down and putting them back together are 2-3 minute highlites good detail and tips.
Thanks! I've been getting a bunch of requests for more detailed info on maintenance and repairs. I'm going to try to get into a carb rebuild and distributers, brakes, clutch, etc. Give the people what they want!
I never knew those push-rod tubes were supposed to be pulled. Thank you for explaining in deets
You're welcome, and Thanks for watching!
I've never seen them expanded with PLIERS
Good job on the video.
Love the "mmmh" @ 1:50
Sometimes you need to give it a little extra. Lol.
“Face to face” build is a great idea!
🙏
nice ,,,, i was told years ago just when i started playing with these air cooled engines " do not use a clicker " on a air cooled ,,,,but after watching all sorts of videos everyone does it ,,,,,,i do not though but who cares LOL ,,,,thanks
Couple of things I think should be done,
1--Use the recommended torque pattern
2--Leave the pushrods out of the tubes till ready to bolt on the rockers. You should take a look at the tubes and make sure they are crushing in straight, if they start to go crooked use a 3/8 long extension and insert it into the tube and you can adjust it. I have had motors where the tube was so out of alignment that the pushrod rubbed on the tube and wore a hole through it and allowed the oil to eventually drain out seizing the motor.
3--Lube the ends of the pushrods with a dab of grease so they don't wear upon start up.
4--A decent torque wrench will work at low torque values.
hi there. @6:07, you mentioned that theres some oil by the piston and that the head looks oilier than cyl4. What does that typically mean other than the fact that your engine has been sitting for a while?
another question is, what if the head is on there tight? what is the best way to remove them without damaging anything.
I have a 1641 DP and its burning a ton of oil but doesnt smoke. Plugs are not fouled and the motor sounds good, runs good and cranks evenly. Safe to say that the rings are good? just need to replace the heads?
Really helpful and clear video my friend. Thank you. One on piston rings would be great. Or signpost me if you’ve already done one? I’ll work my way through all your content anyways as I enjoy your style.
Ill see what I can do. I'm thinking of doing one on balancing the pistons and I could explain the rings too. Thanks for watching!
Well explained!
Thanks!
Another Q - New head came in w/ the 8 double end threaded studs that require insertion. OK.. double nut install w/ washer between ? Torque Lbs ? Locktite ? What color Locktite ? Advice ? thanks - Pg
Yes, double nut with red loctite, 23lbs torque for 10mm studs, 18lbs for 8mm studs.
by the way are stock engines cases available at a decent price anymore ? i never did a vw yet but did 440s 350s in the past ,,,,as i get old i just wanna ride them not work on them ,,,,but at today's prices and undependable work being done out there i way have to do one myself now ,,,,,,thank you for the nice vid ,,,,i did subscribe cause i liked it ,,,,
New cases are available from some of the parts houses. Autolinea make a very nice case. Most of the time we buy a used engine and have the case cleaned and checked. They can be align bored and thrust cut for new bearings and put back into service. It's important to have them checked beforehand as the magnesium can have hairline cracks or become brittle if it sits out in the weather for too long.
@@OldVolksTV thank you up to now i been using rebuilt old cases ,,,and somehow i am always told the bearing got beat so bad you need another case LOL ,,,,,i should do it mysefl maybe is a hint for me ? thank you
Hi got a 1600 71 supa beetle cylinders 3/4 are not firing any idea what to look for to start with , new sparks, Leeds, cap n rotor , coil , cleaned carby still same
Have you run the valves? What distributer is in there? Is it in good shape? Do you have spark at all 4 cyl?
Hows come you did not show and deal with the JB weld on plugs??
We ended up changing the heads later. The plug hole was cracked.
Do you use the cooper rings between the cylinders and the heads?
Using shims depends on the desired compression ratio. In most cases I just use a little Aviation sealant and the paper gaskets.
I took off my engine 5-6 years ago as the spark-plug would keep blowing off along with helicoil. I thought of replacing both heads. Problem im facing is gaining access to bolts of heads. Im stuck at taking exh-manifolds off as the bolts are rusted. I applied wd-40 & heat but im afraid i may melt something inside with applying too much heat to the bolts 🤷🏻♂️
You probably won't melt anything, the exhaust gets pretty hot anyways. Try some PB blaster and a solid "tap" with a hammer. I've had some pretty stuck bolts come off easy that way.
@@OldVolksTV Gotcha! And just making sure that I do need to take the manifolds off in order to get the heads off. Seems like its in the way. Thank You!
I would pull the manifolds off. It makes everything easier.
one question if i may, i have disconnected the engine and brought it half way down to remove the passenger cylinder head. I have removed both nuts off of the intake dual port manifold but i cant move it upward to clear the studs to take it off, because, well, the mono tube is anchored down. I cant remove the engine tin above the cylinder head either because the 4 bolts on top are obstructed by it - Do I need to disconnect the generator support stand / bracket now ? What all needs to come off working with what I got w/ what i described to take the head off? - thanks..Pg
Its easier to pull the motor completely out. The generator stand, intake, fan shroud, and head tin needs to be removed to gain access. It's also easier to work the head off if you have access to the whole thing.
Ok
Stupid question, do I need to drain the oil to pull the head?
You don't NEED to, but it can be messy if you don't.
@@OldVolksTV Thanks! I just picked up a motor I was told is a 2332cc and just trying to confirm.