I'm a Moulder and people seam to have misconceptions on cast parts You can cast ANY alloy including steel and it can be just a s strong as billet steel or even stronger sometimes billet is made from a block of metal (whatever it may be) that was cast in the first place then it rolled and is hard on the out side penetrating not very deep. Think of a hard cover book the cover is hard and on the outside but the softer metal inside are the pages The grain ( yes you heard me right GRAIN) of the alloy is all one direction and does not flow like a casting which has more flexible strength Billet is over hyped in my opinion due to the fact that casting cost so much more today compared to the 20th century Thanks for the very informative video
Hi Steve, great car in very good state. The only thing I have to say is maybe the lockwires on the bolts head. Normally they have to turn around the bolts head by the right (for a normal thread) and not passing over it, as this way if the bolt loose it will directly pull on the wire and be stopped. That's how I had to do when I worked on the aircrafts in Sabena. Thanks, David.
Thank you , and for sure you know as an aircraft mechnaic.. Will do so... by the way, do you know where one can buy a tool to twisted the wire and of course the wire itself.
Lovely looking car Steve ! That spare gearbox case you have there, the rare and expensive ones are Magnesium ,rather than Aluminium. You can tell if it's a dark grey colour, maybe with some white corrosion blisters.
Thanks for the info, and yes those are magnesium . In fact I have two of them as spare. I had once one on the hawke that cracked and needed welding... it turned out that it was magnesium as well
You have lots of interesting vehicles! I have similar seating issues with my pre-war car. I need to make it to fit me and the pedal area is so small only racing shoes really work. Luckily I am built to pre-war specs myself (i.e. short arse) so it's not too hard to make it fit. Or make me fit. I was going to mention the lock wires as well, they need to wrap around the bolts, not just go through them. But I can't speak from experience, only what I have read. I see someone else with more experience than me has mentioned that too.
Another interesting point on the suspension is that it's electroless nickle plated instead of chrome plated as had been done up to the '70's. It was found that chrome plating made steel more susceptible to fractures through a chemical process called hydrogen embrittlement.
Those are Heim joints, Steve. Nice car, but I'm thinking the car you traded is worth more. Just a guess but the uprights might be cast magnesium alloy.
@@D3Sshooter I learn more from you like I'm in a classroom! According to Google, Rod ends are sometimes called Heim joints in North America and Rose joints in Europe, which, it seems, is spot on! Thanks, Steve I'm looking forward to your next video.
looks like alot of learning is about to happen . thanks Steve .
Excellent short series, Steve.
Love your work 👍
I'm a Moulder and people seam to have misconceptions on cast parts You can cast ANY alloy including steel and it can be just a s strong as billet steel or even stronger sometimes billet is made from a block of metal (whatever it may be) that was cast in the first place then it rolled and is hard on the out side penetrating not very deep. Think of a hard cover book the cover is hard and on the outside but the softer metal inside are the pages
The grain ( yes you heard me right GRAIN) of the alloy is all one direction and does not flow like a casting which has more flexible strength
Billet is over hyped in my opinion due to the fact that casting cost so much more today compared to the 20th century
Thanks for the very informative video
According to Wikipedia, the RP30 was designed by Pat Symonds, who later worked for several Formula One teams.
Hi Steve, great car in very good state. The only thing I have to say is maybe the lockwires on the bolts head. Normally they have to turn around the bolts head by the right (for a normal thread) and not passing over it, as this way if the bolt loose it will directly pull on the wire and be stopped. That's how I had to do when I worked on the aircrafts in Sabena. Thanks, David.
Thank you , and for sure you know as an aircraft mechnaic.. Will do so... by the way, do you know where one can buy a tool to twisted the wire and of course the wire itself.
@@D3Sshooter Just Google Lockwire pliers and you'll find them. Very satisfying to use!
Lovely looking car Steve ! That spare gearbox case you have there, the rare and expensive ones are Magnesium ,rather than Aluminium. You can tell if it's a dark grey colour, maybe with some white corrosion blisters.
Thanks for the info, and yes those are magnesium . In fact I have two of them as spare. I had once one on the hawke that cracked and needed welding... it turned out that it was magnesium as well
You have lots of interesting vehicles! I have similar seating issues with my pre-war car. I need to make it to fit me and the pedal area is so small only racing shoes really work. Luckily I am built to pre-war specs myself (i.e. short arse) so it's not too hard to make it fit. Or make me fit. I was going to mention the lock wires as well, they need to wrap around the bolts, not just go through them. But I can't speak from experience, only what I have read. I see someone else with more experience than me has mentioned that too.
Thanks for the comments
Hallo, es gibt wieder Bergrennen in GB. 2 Tage Doune Schottland live 😉
Another interesting point on the suspension is that it's electroless nickle plated instead of chrome plated as had been done up to the '70's. It was found that chrome plating made steel more susceptible to fractures through a chemical process called hydrogen embrittlement.
Indeed, and those are nickle on the PR-30... Thanks for the comments
I'd be giving some thought to changing out many of those structural bolts to aircraft certified ones.
Yep , that is something I might do.. most are now 8.8
@ 24:30 very smart to have bolt heads on top or foreward whenever possible.
@ 19:00 We call them Heim joints in the US. It's an Aircraft term.
I have owned one of these.
Those are Heim joints, Steve. Nice car, but I'm thinking the car you traded is worth more.
Just a guess but the uprights might be cast magnesium alloy.
Thanks for the info, so not rose joints but heim joints... I always learn from you guys
@@D3Sshooter I learn more from you like I'm in a classroom! According to Google, Rod ends are sometimes called Heim joints in North America and Rose joints in Europe, which, it seems, is spot on! Thanks, Steve I'm looking forward to your next video.
We call those rod end bearings heim joints in the US, but they are indeed called rose joints in the UK, and I think Europe as well.
Explain why antifreeze is banned on some tracks.
its slippery
I believe they call them rose joints
yep, i know remember
Nice video, will you do one on the aluminium seat build?
@@Al-os2cg I will
@@D3Sshooter Will you a foam fitted insert in the seat?
Either rose joint or spherical bearing
rose joints are the names of the rod