Great video Brother Im a Kaw Mechanic. Customer needing sensor for a 12 year old bike and there not available anymore last price was $186.00 I was wondering about this Thanks for doing my Investigation . Good job
got a battery warning light in the dash today and lost the rear tire pressure indicator a few moments later. Thanks so much for taking the time to show us how to do this. I'll wait until i need a rear tire, and then do it exactly the way you did it. Thanks again!
Steve - Excellent, well done video. Wish other folks made them like this! Great lighting, focus, framing, dialog, skipping where it is appropriate and getting on with the applicable details. Loved how you showed the complete process - I've taken wheels off my old GW but not my Kawi yet. Great to see how it's done (very similar to GW!). And I've been staring at my warning messages for about 3 years now, trying to figure out a way to get around taking it to a dealer. Ha! No more! (now I just got to go chase down a YT vid on getting a tire off a rim...) Thanks man!
Great vid. Although I just took them off and put regular valves. The downside is checking the pressure in the tires every ride. I kept the sensors so I am going to try what you did! Thanks
Great job mate :) Shame that you had to fix the most redundant part on the bike. I ripped my sensors out on day one as i had heard they cost a house to replace, plus i check my tyre pressure every day i ride at the local servo, i also carry a pressure gage in the bike tool kit. so happy to see you torque your threads many a time i have watched guys just monkey twist them and think thats good enough. i know you might think this is too much but i would love to see a guy like yourself dedicate some time to a full breakdown and rebuild of a gtr 1400 you have a good nature for this type of video. keep it up mate, tip top. Stay upright from australia.
Thanks for making the video! I was able to change my TPMS batteries out the beginning of this season before taking the wheels to the shop for new shoes - that was 80 miles ago and they're still working - I do have a bit of a mechanical bond as I used CR2032s' with welded tabs. I desperately looked for the high temp variant but couldn't locate any, though if you could those would be ideal for soldering.
Great video, thanks. I changed the batteries in both wheels, but I pried the tabs off of the OEM batteries (not easy) and soldered them to new batteries. Unfortunately, only one worked. I think your approach is better; less stress on the sensor.
I did this a few years ago to the 08 I had. I did buy batteries that had the leads already attached. Then I bought a 09 Concourse and now I have a 2011...
great video, that's how I did mine also and it worked perfect. did pop a battery on my first try Im glad I wear glass' might have lost an eye. be careful guys.
I know this is an old video, but hoping someone can answer a question (apologies if I missed it in the video). When replacing the batteries, is it not necessary to take it to a dealer and have them register the sensor to the bike's ECU with KDS (Kawasaki Diagnostic System)? Or would that only be if installing new ones? Thanks
It is an old video but I am still around. Actually getting ready to do the rear sensor this season after I burn up the tire that is currently on it. To answer your question, no you do not have to have the sensor reregistered, at least on the 2008 you don't. I would be surprised if you do on any other ones though. And yes, my front sensor is still going strong with no issues since I made this video. Have a great day and let me know if you have any other questions!
Take the TPMS and set it aside as you will need them if you go back to wanting those annoying screen flashers, as there is a computer number on them. Replace with standard valves and check your pressure like you should. There will be no screen flashing just a --- where the pressure use to be.
Another post mentioned having your Kawasaki dealer use their diagnostic equipment to "tick the box which says, 'wheel sensors removed'. That will kill the flashing warning light". Apparently that is unnecessary - you say you just get a --- where the pressure used to be when replacing with standard valves.. Just checking as I am having my tires changed this week.
I took both my sensors to battery outfitters the pads are college Jewelers solder pad it is flashing that way you don't heat the battery yet heated batteries tender last less than two months at times it only cost $15 for both of them to be replaced
Those tabs are welded on the battery. It might be worth buying an inexpensive battery welder online. Also that TPMS unit looks exactly like the Goldwing units. It probably is.
Well, I actually just got the bike out for the first time this year and it is still working. The other one is starting to go out so I am going to be doing this again on the rear as soon as I need tires.
Thankyou for your time Yea I was not confident enough to solder I had destroyed two button cells doing the procedure I suspect my soldering machine is not nearly as nice as yours and that is the key is to get quick heat so I ended up doing a bunch of press fit connections using hot glue and kind of smooshing the case together we’ll see how it holds up The locks on the case still lock and I glued it shut so time will tell on a different note I put a lithium battery in my wife’s motorcycle and within 24 hours it melted down almost a fire while in drive through so beware of the lithium batteries in motorcycles it was a fire power featherweight Cheers! Safe riding
I couldn’t get the knack of soldering that battery I blew up one so I ended up just gluing it and it works just fine Time to do the front in the fall Take care Ride safe!
Well, after years of putting up with the flashing low battery screen, I finally changed the tires and had the sending units removed. I was hoping that the flashing would stop but alas it did not. The posts below say that it should stop if the battery is either zero or if the sending units are removed. The flashing continues. I don't want to use the method described below by holding the top button on while hitting the bottom button. The red light flashes continuously and I assume that any legitimate warnings will not display with the red flashing light already on. Bummer. Any other fixes?
That is interesting, I currently have the rear one out on my 2008 and it doesn't flash at all, just shows the ---- lines. I plan on swapping the battery next tire change. What year is your bike?
So far so good, 4 years since I shot the video and it is still working. I'll be doing the rear next time I need a tire for it. Sorry I didn't reply sooner!
Forgot to show us the two little lock tabs and the torx screw going back in. And people should follow the manual on reinstalling the wheel to allow the forks to centre themselves. By the way allen head screws are listed in millimeters. ;)
Bryan Austin Sorry, the Torx and locking tabs go in just as they came off. Not sure which Allen screws I didn't State in metric so I will have to review the video, and yes, everyone should follow the manual for everything, this video isn't a "how to" as I have no idea what I am doing.
Turn the blinking off just hold the top button in and push bottom button on dash. Screen will go back to normal with a red light on until it works normal again.
Hi. How long you must to wait till the computer show you the pressure? I have change yesterday the batterys on my C14 2010 and i have drove today 8km (about 10minutes drive) and there comes stil just the - - - :/ Is that normal or i have something broken?
If the battery completely dies then you'll just have lines on the screen with no warning. Honestly, that is better than the warning. The warning makes the screen unusable.
@@wiadv OK that solves the mystery . . . did you mean if the bike (12V) battery dies or the sensor (2032) battery dies? (both happened on this bike but I would like to know for future reference). I changed the sensor battery using your method and it just has the lines on the display. So I need to record the number off the sensor and get it re programmed it appears. Thanks for getting back to me and great video!
@@smoke05s Sorry, I meant when the sensor battery dies. The motorcycle battery doesn't matter. You do need to ride the bike after replacing the battery, the lines won't go away until you spin the wheel for a bit of time. In my video I rode about 6 blocks before it started showing the pressure.
@@wiadv i went all the way from Los Angeles to Palms springs for the test drive and it didn't come back on. So maybe my sensor is toast. Next tire change I will double check the voltage. Thank you very much for getting back to me.
Did the same this morning on my 08 Concours which I got it one month ago (just for the front wheel) unfortunately not working. Could be the sensor damaged...
Hey there, great video thanks. How are the going, still reading OK? I've read that is hit and miss with how long they last. What's been your experience so fay?
Good video however if you are a do it yourselfer when you take the front wheel place a jack under the bike. When the bike is on the center stand and front wheel is removed the bike will dip forward and fall over. That’s what happened to me when followed this vid. No real damage
Sorry to hear about your experience! Glad your bike is ok! Yes, you need to support the bike or it will fall over. Unfortunately, you can't see my support in the video. I am pretty impressed you were able to get the tire off the front without lifting the front up. Hope everything else worked out for you!
Hey Steve, thanks for the video, great job! Question: I’ve looked all over for a 13/16” spark plug socket that receives the extension, but all I’ve found has a round smaller diameter inside 😳. On the other hand, where do you place the jack to support the bike once it’s on a center stand? So far I have to put it under the exhaust, but I’m afraid to damage it.
I must admit, I was skeptical at the beginning but you did it. Nice work and thanks for sharing!
Great video Brother Im a Kaw Mechanic. Customer needing sensor for a 12 year old bike and there not available anymore last price was $186.00 I was wondering about this Thanks for doing my Investigation . Good job
got a battery warning light in the dash today and lost the rear tire pressure indicator a few moments later. Thanks so much for taking the time to show us how to do this. I'll wait until i need a rear tire, and then do it exactly the way you did it. Thanks again!
Steve - Excellent, well done video. Wish other folks made them like this! Great lighting, focus, framing, dialog, skipping where it is appropriate and getting on with the applicable details. Loved how you showed the complete process - I've taken wheels off my old GW but not my Kawi yet. Great to see how it's done (very similar to GW!). And I've been staring at my warning messages for about 3 years now, trying to figure out a way to get around taking it to a dealer. Ha! No more! (now I just got to go chase down a YT vid on getting a tire off a rim...) Thanks man!
Great video Steve. My TPMS has been driving me crazy for about 3 years. Time to do a Tuesday Morning Maintenance!
Thanks for the Great video. The TPMS cost a lot more than a battery. Always wondered how to replace the batt. Thanks again
I love Kawasaki but it is criminal to not make this battery an easy replacement
Great vid. Although I just took them off and put regular valves. The downside is checking the pressure in the tires every ride. I kept the sensors so I am going to try what you did! Thanks
Great job mate :) Shame that you had to fix the most redundant part on the bike. I ripped my sensors out on day one as i had heard they cost a house to replace, plus i check my tyre pressure every day i ride at the local servo, i also carry a pressure gage in the bike tool kit. so happy to see you torque your threads many a time i have watched guys just monkey twist them and think thats good enough. i know you might think this is too much but i would love to see a guy like yourself dedicate some time to a full breakdown and rebuild of a gtr 1400 you have a good nature for this type of video. keep it up mate, tip top. Stay upright from australia.
So your saying you can just pull the sensor ? Dies the dash warning go away ?
Thanks for making the video! I was able to change my TPMS batteries out the beginning of this season before taking the wheels to the shop for new shoes - that was 80 miles ago and they're still working - I do have a bit of a mechanical bond as I used CR2032s' with welded tabs. I desperately looked for the high temp variant but couldn't locate any, though if you could those would be ideal for soldering.
I watched this, and did the same thing with my Concours rear tire pressure sensor battery. Easy after watching this. Works great.
Glad it worked for ya!
Dude- excellent video great instruction.
I saw other videos on the subject and they were not as good as yours thank you great job
Honestly that is why I made it. The other videos just don't give a solid walk thru.
FYI, the fix is still working.
doing this today cant wait to finally have working tpms sensors thanks for the vid!
THIS IS A HOW TO! And you know very well what you're doing :) Many thanks for your help...
Great video, thanks. I changed the batteries in both wheels, but I pried the tabs off of the OEM batteries (not easy) and soldered them to new batteries. Unfortunately, only one worked. I think your approach is better; less stress on the sensor.
Very good tutorial. Especially I like your video editing.
Outstanding. Thanks! I was able to get the guys at my local Batteries Plus to cold weld a set of tabs for me for a couple bucks.
Tried this fix and it works! Great, informative video
very helpful video and a money saver too!
I would say you were a success. ! You did what you said you were going to do.. and it Worked. Congrats. 👍 🇺🇸
Great video...enjoyed the sense of humor also!
Very good video and entertaining too. Thank you.
Good video, would using puncture prevention fluid like OKO have an adverse effect on the pressure sensors!?
I did this a few years ago to the 08 I had. I did buy batteries that had the leads already attached. Then I bought a 09 Concourse
and now I have a 2011...
Good information on the battery buddy, thankyou...
You can buy a cheap battery holder with wires attached and cable tie to outside of sensor to avoid soldering on the battery
No mention on what wire from the pos and neg side of the battery goes onto the sensor unless there is no requirement for observing polarity.
At 10:47 in the video you can see which side goes to which. Otherwise when you pull your own apart you'll be able to see which side is pos vs neg.
Perfect
My 2008 needs doing this on both tires.
How long did these batteries last for you?
Not sure, they are still going! If they ever die I'll be sure to post.
@@wiadv excellent! Thanks Steve
great video, that's how I did mine also and it worked perfect. did pop a battery on my first try Im glad I wear glass' might have lost an eye. be careful guys.
Aye, I should have been wearing safety glasses. Now days I am more conscious about it with my kiddos getting older. Gotta be an example.
I know this is an old video, but hoping someone can answer a question (apologies if I missed it in the video). When replacing the batteries, is it not necessary to take it to a dealer and have them register the sensor to the bike's ECU with KDS (Kawasaki Diagnostic System)? Or would that only be if installing new ones? Thanks
It is an old video but I am still around. Actually getting ready to do the rear sensor this season after I burn up the tire that is currently on it.
To answer your question, no you do not have to have the sensor reregistered, at least on the 2008 you don't. I would be surprised if you do on any other ones though.
And yes, my front sensor is still going strong with no issues since I made this video.
Have a great day and let me know if you have any other questions!
Take the TPMS and set it aside as you will need them if you go back to wanting those annoying screen flashers, as there is a computer number on them. Replace with standard valves and check your pressure like you should. There will be no screen flashing just a --- where the pressure use to be.
Another post mentioned having your Kawasaki dealer use their diagnostic equipment to "tick the box which says, 'wheel sensors removed'. That will kill the flashing warning light". Apparently that is unnecessary - you say you just get a --- where the pressure used to be when replacing with standard valves.. Just checking as I am having my tires changed this week.
I took both my sensors to battery outfitters the pads are college Jewelers solder pad it is flashing that way you don't heat the battery yet heated batteries tender last less than two months at times it only cost $15 for both of them to be replaced
You taught me something!!
Those tabs are welded on the battery. It might be worth buying an inexpensive battery welder online.
Also that TPMS unit looks exactly like the Goldwing units. It probably is.
I just learned about the battery welders just a few months ago. I would for sure buy one if I ever have to dig into these batteries again.
Good job.
Actually I should ask how long did the battery last, has been three years since this video posted thank you for your time
Well, I actually just got the bike out for the first time this year and it is still working. The other one is starting to go out so I am going to be doing this again on the rear as soon as I need tires.
Thankyou for your time
Yea I was not confident enough to solder I had destroyed two button cells doing the procedure I suspect my soldering machine is not nearly as nice as yours and that is the key is to get quick heat so I ended up doing a bunch of press fit connections using hot glue and kind of smooshing the case together we’ll see how it holds up The locks on the case still lock and I glued it shut so time will tell on a different note I put a lithium battery in my wife’s motorcycle and within 24 hours it melted down almost a fire while in drive through
so beware of the lithium batteries in motorcycles it was a fire power featherweight
Cheers! Safe riding
I couldn’t get the knack of soldering that battery I blew up one
so I ended up just gluing it and it works just fine
Time to do the front in the fall
Take care
Ride safe!
Très instructif
Well, after years of putting up with the flashing low battery screen, I finally changed the tires and had the sending units removed. I was hoping that the flashing would stop but alas it did not. The posts below say that it should stop if the battery is either zero or if the sending units are removed. The flashing continues. I don't want to use the method described below by holding the top button on while hitting the bottom button. The red light flashes continuously and I assume that any legitimate warnings will not display with the red flashing light already on. Bummer. Any other fixes?
That is interesting, I currently have the rear one out on my 2008 and it doesn't flash at all, just shows the ---- lines. I plan on swapping the battery next tire change.
What year is your bike?
Dude, have a question for you...but need to add an image, how do I reach you?
excellent job!
Succes! Great job! 👍👍👍
Did this work or did you kill the battery with the heat
So far so good, 4 years since I shot the video and it is still working. I'll be doing the rear next time I need a tire for it. Sorry I didn't reply sooner!
I tried this but my solder won't stick to the battery .I sanded it really well , any idea why ?
Did you use flux paste?
Forgot to show us the two little lock tabs and the torx screw going back in. And people should follow the manual on reinstalling the wheel to allow the forks to centre themselves. By the way allen head screws are listed in millimeters. ;)
Bryan Austin Sorry, the Torx and locking tabs go in just as they came off. Not sure which Allen screws I didn't State in metric so I will have to review the video, and yes, everyone should follow the manual for everything, this video isn't a "how to" as I have no idea what I am doing.
Turn the blinking off just hold the top button in and push bottom button on dash. Screen will go back to normal with a red light on until it works normal again.
For real??? I’m gonna have to try that.
so how often do you have to change these batteries? every few years?
From what I understand the 2008-10 was known for having weak batteries from the start. I don't know that any other year had the same issue.
Hi. How long you must to wait till the computer show you the pressure? I have change yesterday the batterys on my C14 2010 and i have drove today 8km (about 10minutes drive) and there comes stil just the - - - :/ Is that normal or i have something broken?
Sounds like something isn't right, if you look at the end of the video mine starts working within a quarter mile.
Just got my 2009 concours 14 yesterday. I don't see any warning light, they just don.t work at all front or rear
If the battery completely dies then you'll just have lines on the screen with no warning. Honestly, that is better than the warning. The warning makes the screen unusable.
@@wiadv OK that solves the mystery . . . did you mean if the bike (12V) battery dies or the sensor (2032) battery dies? (both happened on this bike but I would like to know for future reference). I changed the sensor battery using your method and it just has the lines on the display. So I need to record the number off the sensor and get it re programmed it appears. Thanks for getting back to me and great video!
@@smoke05s Sorry, I meant when the sensor battery dies. The motorcycle battery doesn't matter.
You do need to ride the bike after replacing the battery, the lines won't go away until you spin the wheel for a bit of time. In my video I rode about 6 blocks before it started showing the pressure.
@@wiadv i went all the way from Los Angeles to Palms springs for the test drive and it didn't come back on. So maybe my sensor is toast. Next tire change I will double check the voltage. Thank you very much for getting back to me.
Hey Steve , you still with us
I haven't died yet
@@wiadv awesome
thanks STEVE.
Did the same this morning on my 08 Concours which I got it one month ago (just for the front wheel) unfortunately not working. Could be the sensor damaged...
Hey there, great video thanks. How are the going, still reading OK? I've read that is hit and miss with how long they last. What's been your experience so fay?
8,000 miles and it is still going strong.
Good video however if you are a do it yourselfer when you take the front wheel place a jack under the bike. When the bike is on the center stand and front wheel is removed the bike will dip forward and fall over. That’s what happened to me when followed this vid. No real damage
Sorry to hear about your experience! Glad your bike is ok! Yes, you need to support the bike or it will fall over. Unfortunately, you can't see my support in the video.
I am pretty impressed you were able to get the tire off the front without lifting the front up.
Hope everything else worked out for you!
Hey Steve, thanks for the video, great job! Question: I’ve looked all over for a 13/16” spark plug socket that receives the extension, but all I’ve found has a round smaller diameter inside 😳. On the other hand, where do you place the jack to support the bike once it’s on a center stand? So far I have to put it under the exhaust, but I’m afraid to damage it.
Poor design on Kawasakis part, not being able to change batteries.... im on my 2nd C14 , that is the main pain in the ass on these bikes ....