Very thorough video! No one else addressed the the stop or the raker filing. To set the black file stop, find the shortest cutter, sharpen it and then set the stop to its length so that all other cutters match the short one.
Your math figuring out the height adjustment was pure awesome, I haven't seen anyone else even mention that let alone coming up with such a clear explanation on it, and getting the height right is the most critical setting on the entire thing. Excellent job!! I have a 3/8 chain with .050 gauge that requires a 7/32 file, 7/32 = .2187. Granberg recommends 20% should be above the tooth, so 80% of that (which is what's below the tooth) = .175, and I round up to .18 since the bar only does 100ths. So once you touch the top of the tooth with the file using your method and get your starting point, I drop the height adjustment 18 clicks and it should be spot on. Never woulda been able to figure that out without this video, thanks again!!
I agree with Rocky, great job. You did a very good job explaining how to use this jig. I clamp my saw into a benchvise for sharpeing and lock my chain for each tooth.
So far this is the only "how to use a Granberg style sharpening jig" video that I have found that mentions using it to set the depth gauges. Good job. Most of the saw chain manufacturer websites have charts that specify the angles that you need to use for each chain they sell. I.E. Crosscut hardwood 30 degree top plate, 10 degree side plate. Ripping chain is normally 10-15 degrees top plate and 10 degrees side plate. Its more the chain and its usage, not the saw that determines the angles. Hard wood and soft wood have slightly different angles that supposedly make a difference, I haven't noticed a real difference but then I don't use a stopwatch when cutting wood ;-). Most instructions for hand filing tell you to keep the file horizontal, 90 degrees to the guide bar with a 30 degree top plate angle. I have a hunch this is because the side plate angle is so small ( 5-10 degrees) that its hard for most people to hold the difference from horizontal. According to the Stihl Sharpening Guide, the Depth Gauge Tool is not made of file hard material. They recommend using it to measure the depth gauge, remove it, file the gauge and then measure again. You will get a feel for how many strokes are needed before measuring again. Personally I like using the jig method.
Super Nice job explaining everything. I have an older version of this that was a hand me down from my step father. I had no idea how to begin how to use it. Thanks so much for posting this video!
Thank you so much for making this video my man. I bought this file jig, shelved it for a year+ and now finally needed to use it. Manual had grown legs but this was awesome to follow. Thanks again!
Many many years ago I did the hand sharpened chains for Crown Zellerbach in Neah Bay Wash. I was good with a file cause I was a faller myself and the guys liked my style and requested me so the company would get chains that hadn't been ruined by someone or over sharpened with a grinder. It is hard work following a grinder cause it tempers the tooth and makes it near impossible to hand file if done wrong and on a week endI would make a good weeks wages just doing that on the two days I spent. I earned my money but I needed that money cause I had a family who counted on me to do good by them. I taught my boys how to do it when they got older and they surprised me by turning out just as good as me. You did a good presentation
Thank You for taking the time to make this video, it was a huge help for me. I'm new to chain saws, never sharpened one. The shop I go to had an Oregon sure sharp attachment identical to the Granberg that seemed like a good idea so I bought one. The instructions that came with it were the worst instructions I have ever come across. The store would not accept a purchase once it was opened, so there I was, money wasted. Then I found your video. One question, about placing the attachment on the bar; on the horizontal centerline of the rivets or above the centerline?
I'm not quite sure what you're referring to with being at or above the rivet centerline. I just put it on the bar and make sure the cutters can pass under the backstop. Then make up/down adjustments with the thumbscrew.
@@LandisLegacyFarm I'm referring to the top edge of the left clamping plates in relation to the centerline of the chain rivets: where do you locate the tool vertically ? Thank you for your speedy reply, your video is the best I've found.
Excellent explantion of how to adjust and use the jig. However, you forgot one VERY important thing. Because you had a zero tilt when filing the cutters, you did not have to flip that angle when switching to the opposite direction to get the alternate cutters. If you do have a tilt off zero, you have to switch that as well as the angle. If you dont, half your cutters will be ruined! I would suggest that you insert that instruction into the video at the point that you do the switch to the other side. And don't just say it, point out again where that adjustment is made. Please!
So you like to pull the file you must be part Japanese ..... cuz that's what they like to do with their saws and their planning tools .... Pull um !! I actually do the same thing sometimes with my files that is and my saws and my planes 😁👍
You are filling backwards and your not supposed to with a round file. You need to go from the inside of the tooth to the outside point. Once you file outward you bring it back without filing the tooth and the repeat the process for desired result. Most chains require 10° angle while filing also. Just remember only square filing requires you to sharpen outside in and some people still do that inside to out
Looks like he did it all right to me, I mean he said he likes to cut on the draw, but that's just a personal preference. The rig will accommodate the file going either way I found. At first at about time point 13:13 I thought he got it wrong when he flipped the rig over to cut the other teeth, but I now see he also flipped the saw around too, so he was still, cutting on the draw. Personally, I'd mention the turning of the saw when you flip the rig in case some others miss that new, orientation of the file. Very good video! :)
I wrote the company to get some bushings a while ago never heard anything, I will find a phone number and call if still nothing, I will give a wonderful review on every site pertaining to the product, otherwise ill buy the Oregon grinder for about $400.00
Very complete, detailed, and easy to understand. Great job!
Best tutorial of the file-n-joint on the web. Very detailed and well thought out. Good job
Thanks!
Most thorough instruction video I've found for the Granberg File-N-Joint. Thanks.
Very thorough video! No one else addressed the the stop or the raker filing. To set the black file stop, find the shortest cutter, sharpen it and then set the stop to its length so that all other cutters match the short one.
Excellent instruction young man. The world could use more like you. 👍
Your math figuring out the height adjustment was pure awesome, I haven't seen anyone else even mention that let alone coming up with such a clear explanation on it, and getting the height right is the most critical setting on the entire thing. Excellent job!! I have a 3/8 chain with .050 gauge that requires a 7/32 file, 7/32 = .2187. Granberg recommends 20% should be above the tooth, so 80% of that (which is what's below the tooth) = .175, and I round up to .18 since the bar only does 100ths. So once you touch the top of the tooth with the file using your method and get your starting point, I drop the height adjustment 18 clicks and it should be spot on. Never woulda been able to figure that out without this video, thanks again!!
Glad to hear it helped ya!
Well done! Your logical system for setting 4/5 of the file below the top of the tooth is flawless. Keep up the good work.
Best tutorial on TH-cam
I agree with Rocky, great job. You did a very good job explaining how to use this jig. I clamp my saw into a benchvise for sharpeing and lock my chain for each tooth.
So far this is the only "how to use a Granberg style sharpening jig" video that I have found that mentions using it to set the depth gauges. Good job.
Most of the saw chain manufacturer websites have charts that specify the angles that you need to use for each chain they sell. I.E. Crosscut hardwood 30 degree top plate, 10 degree side plate. Ripping chain is normally 10-15 degrees top plate and 10 degrees side plate. Its more the chain and its usage, not the saw that determines the angles. Hard wood and soft wood have slightly different angles that supposedly make a difference, I haven't noticed a real difference but then I don't use a stopwatch when cutting wood ;-).
Most instructions for hand filing tell you to keep the file horizontal, 90 degrees to the guide bar with a 30 degree top plate angle. I have a hunch this is because the side plate angle is so small ( 5-10 degrees) that its hard for most people to hold the difference from horizontal.
According to the Stihl Sharpening Guide, the Depth Gauge Tool is not made of file hard material. They recommend using it to measure the depth gauge, remove it, file the gauge and then measure again. You will get a feel for how many strokes are needed before measuring again. Personally I like using the jig method.
Super Nice job explaining everything. I have an older version of this that was a hand me down from my step father. I had no idea how to begin how to use it. Thanks so much for posting this video!
Glad it was helpful!
great job kid. This is the best video I have found for this jig.
Thanks You!!
Thank you so much for making this video my man. I bought this file jig, shelved it for a year+ and now finally needed to use it. Manual had grown legs but this was awesome to follow. Thanks again!
Glad I could help!
Many many years ago I did the hand sharpened chains for Crown Zellerbach in Neah Bay Wash. I was good with a file cause I was a faller myself and the guys liked my style and requested me so the company would get chains that hadn't been ruined by someone or over sharpened with a grinder. It is hard work following a grinder cause it tempers the tooth and makes it near impossible to hand file if done wrong and on a week endI would make a good weeks wages just doing that on the two days I spent. I earned my money but I needed that money cause I had a family who counted on me to do good by them. I taught my boys how to do it when they got older and they surprised me by turning out just as good as me. You did a good presentation
Excellent video. Here's a quick tip, rub the "axel bar" with a little graphite it will make it slide like you coated it with axel grease.
Great job young man! Very informative and useful instruction!
Excellent video.
Thank you for taking the time to make this, I had no idea you could use this jig to set the depth gauges
Excellent video. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to put it together.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video buddy! I agree with others that this is the best tutorial I’ve seen for this jig. Keep it up 👍🏼
Thanks
Great job explaining how to use this jog. Well done!
Thanks!
dude,I'm back. This is still a good video.
Thanks!
Thanks so much! Josh
Great video, lots of good info, thanks!
Great job young man!
Good job young man.
Thanks!
Good video--Well done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Best video to learn how to use bar mounted jig.
Bar none.
😆
Where can I find a flat file that will mount in the G106B?
Pretty much any narrow-ish file should work. If it's short, you might have to adjust the end clamp of the jig inwards, but that's pretty simple.
Bu ürünün bana modelini ve hangi sitede satılıyor linkini atarmısın
Thank You for taking the time to make this video, it was a huge help for me. I'm new to chain saws, never sharpened one. The shop I go to had an Oregon sure sharp attachment identical to the Granberg that seemed like a good idea so I bought one. The instructions that came with it were the worst instructions I have ever come across. The store would not accept a purchase once it was opened, so there I was, money wasted. Then I found your video. One question, about placing the attachment on the bar; on the horizontal centerline of the rivets or above the centerline?
I'm not quite sure what you're referring to with being at or above the rivet centerline. I just put it on the bar and make sure the cutters can pass under the backstop. Then make up/down adjustments with the thumbscrew.
@@LandisLegacyFarm I'm referring to the top edge of the left clamping plates in relation to the centerline of the chain rivets: where do you locate the tool vertically ? Thank you for your speedy reply, your video is the best I've found.
You are doing great!
Thank you.
Thanks!
Can you square ground file with this sharpener
I personally haven't, but you should be able to, yes. Josh
Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad I could help!
Great video. Thank you very much!
Thank you!!
Excellent! Thanks!
Thank you very much. Instruction sheet that comes with the jig is not the clearest thing. Thanks again!
Glad I could help! Josh
Awesome awesome
Thanks!
Excellent explantion of how to adjust and use the jig. However, you forgot one VERY important thing. Because you had a zero tilt when filing the cutters, you did not have to flip that angle when switching to the opposite direction to get the alternate cutters. If you do have a tilt off zero, you have to switch that as well as the angle. If you dont, half your cutters will be ruined! I would suggest that you insert that instruction into the video at the point that you do the switch to the other side. And don't just say it, point out again where that adjustment is made. Please!
So you like to pull the file you must be part Japanese ..... cuz that's what they like to do with their saws and their planning tools .... Pull um !! I actually do the same thing sometimes with my files that is and my saws and my planes 😁👍
Easier done than said ....huh that's backwards isn't it🤔🤪
You are filling backwards and your not supposed to with a round file. You need to go from the inside of the tooth to the outside point. Once you file outward you bring it back without filing the tooth and the repeat the process for desired result. Most chains require 10° angle while filing also. Just remember only square filing requires you to sharpen outside in and some people still do that inside to out
Yeah, that's exactly what I'm doing. Inside to Outside. See 5:30
Looks like he did it all right to me, I mean he said he likes to cut on the draw, but that's just a personal preference. The rig will accommodate the file going either way I found. At first at about time point 13:13 I thought he got it wrong when he flipped the rig over to cut the other teeth, but I now see he also flipped the saw around too, so he was still, cutting on the draw. Personally, I'd mention the turning of the saw when you flip the rig in case some others miss that new, orientation of the file. Very good video! :)
Хоть один правильно напильником работает.
I wrote the company to get some bushings a while ago never heard anything, I will find a phone number and call if still nothing, I will give a wonderful review on every site pertaining to the product, otherwise ill buy the Oregon grinder for about $400.00
Thanks!
Thanks so much!
Great video, thank you.