Thank you. I'm thinking more about shops with limited equipment and space and makers who are early in their skill development, trying to come up with videos that are aimed more specifically at those situations.
Thank you. I am interested in creating videos and content that offer methods and techniques that are workable for shops that have limited space and equipment. Would you like to suggest a topic that would be helpful to you?
Made them myself for years, but so much work ... now I buy from Aliexpress, 20 strips for 21€, nice sapele. Real good quality and well sawn. Very good video though!
Hello Kevin, thank you so much for showing us your two methods of cutting kerfed linings! I noticed you have a drum sander with one end open. Are you able to adjust it such that you can sand tops and backs with no taper? I am interested in the Jet 1836 drum sander. Thank you again!
I can adjust my sander to hold parallel to the table within .002 inches, but you should know that having a guitar top the same thickness everywhere is completely unnecessary. Also, by sanding a too in one direction, then rotating it 180 degrees without adjusting the sander, you will cancel out any variation so closely that you won't be able to measure it. And finally, when you assemble the body, you will thin the top even further in hand sanding and should, especially around the lower bout, away from the bridge region and toward the rims. I had a Jet 22" drum sander in a school i taught in. It was a good machine. i wouldn't be afraid of purchasing one at all.
Thanks for your comment, but it's NOT genius: it's just becoming familiar with a problem and then fiddling with possible solutions until you evolve to one that works (well enough) :)
I’ve looked at a good bit of your videos and all the great work you do but I wasn’t able to find a video on the measurements and angles you use to create the scarf joint for the neck and headstock of your guitar. I’m not sure if that’s something you would be willing to go into detail about but I was wondering if you would be willing to make a video on it if you don’t already have one. If you do have one, would you be willing to share the link to it? Thank you!
I can't speak to false with any authority, but I wouldn't use it base on A; its strength, B; the cost. I have no engineering date to support my claim, but recall reading that years ago in an article about on speaker cabinet design. Richard Hoover, owner of Santa Cruz Guitar, also uses basswood for just that reason and suggested that I employ it. I must admit that my use of it is more a matter of trust than audible discern, still I persist.
Is there a rule of thumb height in which to glue the lining proud or above the sides to leave room for matching the radius of the soundboard/top? Or does it depend on the specific soundboard radius?
Good Question! I start by doming the edge of the rim to the desired radius. When I glue the linings in, I start at the heel block end and work my way around, staying flush with the rim. The linings will comply, a little with the need to rise or fallout not completely. You can cut the lining and start flush again if it's dropping. If is is pitching above the rim, let it do so until you reach about 1/16" (1.58mm), then break it and drop down if needed. When the glue has cured, you can use a block plane to cut back to the rim and then touch ups with the radius dish used to dome the rims.
@@thepragmaticluthier Thanks for your generous response. I have learned so much from you already. If you ever think about doing a luthier bootcamp I am in!
What a fun jig! Real engineering there. Great video, thanks.
Thank you again for a very useful video. That first method is very appealing to me at this point. Thank you for sharing.
Kevin you are a treasure!
I sincerely appreciate your comment, but my wife asks that you might refrain. She says my head is getting way to big:)
Very helpful to see simple and jig based options!
Thank you. I'm thinking more about shops with limited equipment and space and makers who are early in their skill development, trying to come up with videos that are aimed more specifically at those situations.
@@thepragmaticluthier I love that! It would certainly be a big help to us novices! 🙂
Thank you so much for the kerf lining video,I believe I was the one who mentioned it so thanks again, happy building
You are indeed the person who motivated me to do this video. THANK YOU for the request :)
Really good content and info. I am really enjoying your channel. I do not have a very elaborate shop, so these ideas really help. Thank you.
Thank you. I am interested in creating videos and content that offer methods and techniques that are workable for shops that have limited space and equipment. Would you like to suggest a topic that would be helpful to you?
Made them myself for years, but so much work ... now I buy from Aliexpress, 20 strips for 21€, nice sapele. Real good quality and well sawn. Very good video though!
Thanks for all the videos. They are a great help to a lot of people ! Especially me
Thanks very much for your encouraging comment. Would you care to suggest a video topic?
Nice Jig! You got my wheels going , now!
Hello Kevin, thank you so much for showing us your two methods of cutting kerfed linings! I noticed you have a drum sander with one end open. Are you able to adjust it such that you can sand tops and backs with no taper? I am interested in the Jet 1836 drum sander. Thank you again!
I can adjust my sander to hold parallel to the table within .002 inches, but you should know that having a guitar top the same thickness everywhere is completely unnecessary. Also, by sanding a too in one direction, then rotating it 180 degrees without adjusting the sander, you will cancel out any variation so closely that you won't be able to measure it. And finally, when you assemble the body, you will thin the top even further in hand sanding and should, especially around the lower bout, away from the bridge region and toward the rims. I had a Jet 22" drum sander in a school i taught in. It was a good machine. i wouldn't be afraid of purchasing one at all.
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Thank you Kevin, that is so helpful! Your videos are excellent and very much appreciated!
That's genius. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for your comment, but it's NOT genius: it's just becoming familiar with a problem and then fiddling with possible solutions until you evolve to one that works (well enough) :)
I’ve looked at a good bit of your videos and all the great work you do but I wasn’t able to find a video on the measurements and angles you use to create the scarf joint for the neck and headstock of your guitar. I’m not sure if that’s something you would be willing to go into detail about but I was wondering if you would be willing to make a video on it if you don’t already have one. If you do have one, would you be willing to share the link to it? Thank you!
th-cam.com/video/CaDyTNSSTPU/w-d-xo.html
I’m curious. What is the measurement that determines basswood is acoustically dead? Would balsa wood be even deader?
I can't speak to false with any authority, but I wouldn't use it base on A; its strength, B; the cost. I have no engineering date to support my claim, but recall reading that years ago in an article about on speaker cabinet design. Richard Hoover, owner of Santa Cruz Guitar, also uses basswood for just that reason and suggested that I employ it. I must admit that my use of it is more a matter of trust than audible discern, still I persist.
Is there a rule of thumb height in which to glue the lining proud or above the sides to leave room for matching the radius of the soundboard/top? Or does it depend on the specific soundboard radius?
Good Question! I start by doming the edge of the rim to the desired radius. When I glue the linings in, I start at the heel block end and work my way around, staying flush with the rim. The linings will comply, a little with the need to rise or fallout not completely. You can cut the lining and start flush again if it's dropping. If is is pitching above the rim, let it do so until you reach about 1/16" (1.58mm), then break it and drop down if needed. When the glue has cured, you can use a block plane to cut back to the rim and then touch ups with the radius dish used to dome the rims.
@@thepragmaticluthier Thanks for your generous response. I have learned so much from you already. If you ever think about doing a luthier bootcamp I am in!
Very cool jig.
Thanks. I love to make this stuff.
If it helps, one eighth of an inch is about 3.2mm, so 5/8 in is 16mm...