That would be awesome: an external 400ft mag (motor for take up spool?) and a crystal sync motor. Here is an idea: perhaps the front of the Krasnogorsk 3 with the M 42 screw mount fits (or can be made to fit) the K-1 and you can have Super 16mm (widened gate and re-centered M42 lens mount). Seen some K-3 bodies without lens on ebay which are very cheap and the re-centering ring is inexpensive as well. OR you could try to fit a more modern and versatile lens mount which I already saw being done successfully on a K-3. IMHO it's worth considering Super 16mm while you are at it, doing quite ambitious modifications. Guess the only thing really impossible is coming up with a top notch Super 16mm viewfinder. I never saw anyone coming up with one and it's probably way too difficult for such an inexpensive camera. Anyway: good luck with your modification project! Please keep us posted on your progress!
truefilm Thanks for your comnent, I won't be considering super16 as I wish to use the side area of the film for comopt sound because I am going to try and make an optical sound head in the camera and I have an anamorphic lens I can use anyway.
Shaun WOW! That sounds like an ambitious project! The Auricon 16mm cameras (for example) have an optical sound head, but you will need extra space (of course you already thought about that) and editing your footage will be next to impossible because of the picture - sound offset (I think it is 28 frames on 16mm film) unless you like that sweet old optical sound, scan and transfer - and edit in digital post. Regarding an anamorphic lens: seen a lot of K-3 footage with a 2x anamorphic lens. A lot doesn't look too great, but it is probably a matter of ill matching lenses. A reverse 2x anamorphic lens for 35mm movie projectors should be perfect for your purposes and large enough to avoid vignetting (you probably have one of these). Good luck with your project. Sounds great!
I have a Sankor 16D lens which would probably work well based on what I saw through the viewfinder although the field of view is pretty narrow as it only works with my 50mm lens. Getting the sound off the film won't be much of a problem as I have a sound projector that I use as a telecine. I can sync sound up from films with ease using that setup. The sound head could be made from an LED connected to an amplifier and in front of that LED would be a thin slit so that a narrow beam of light could shine on the film sound area but I will have to do a lot of testing to make sure it doesn't fog the picture area. I was all over Scotland on a huge holiday last month and I have nearly finished the film project for it. I did the whole thing on 16mm film and at the end I had 1000 feet of it to develop myself.
Sounds great! Yup, you'll probably need a larger anamorphic adapter for wider angles (such as the standard 25mm and shorter). Good luck with your sound recording head! IMHO the light needs to be of the exact right intensity and that needs a LOT of testing. Add to that the fact that you are hand developing. I LOVE the old 16mm optical sound, especially for dialogue. It has a very limited bandwidth and some noise, but the sound of those vintage tube amplifiers is wonderful. In the end what counts is that YOU enjoy coming up with all these engineering solutions and like the results! Please keep me posted. Can't wait to see some of your work (if you would like to share that is). Cheers!
The light intensity will depend on the ASA rating of the film stock as well as the desired input level. Another idea I've had for sound is to maybe make a striper machine which will cut reel to reel tape to whatever width is needed and then apply that to the film. You can buy striper machines for super8 on ebay but there is no such thing for 16mm. And don't worry, I will be sharing all my work. Since my dad gave me a film SLR camera two years ago I've become obsessed with film and realised just how much more pleasing the picture is than digital.
Hi Shaun. I've recently got hold of a Krasnogorsk 2. It's working great, I've got some old film to experiment with before I buy something to actually film on. My main concern is with the loading of the film. Did you find an easier way to load the film onto the reel that doing it by hand? Also does this need to be done in total darkness or can it be done under a darkroom light? Thanks for any help you can give me. I don't want to wreck my first 16mm film before I start shooting!
@@asprinwizard Yes as the film is not sensitive to infrared light. Test the goggles in total darkness and if you can see even the slightest light coming from them, they aren't suitable.
@@ShaunDobbie Is there any reason why I couldn't bypass the threading part by using the reel as shown here: photos.app.goo.gl/C6aFxq8RG6VV5DKz9 but with a custom made add on to the spindle that will fit the square-style reel mount so it turns properly? Would this work?
I recently got the K1. In loading the film into a cassette does it still take 100ft respooled? or does it need to be a smaller measurement. Meaning is cutting the film shorter before respooling needed?
thanks for posting this, I have a K1 in the mail so this is a big help! I was wondering, some other uploads say that you don't need to load film in a dark room. But that sounds too good to be true, I was wondering if I could use Fomapan R100 Black and White Transparency Film (Super 16mm, 100' Reel) with the K1? Whenever I try to look anything up, I get stuff for the K3, the magazine makes me nervous....
Many thanks for the video. I have got two questions with regard to this camera. 1) I can’t see anything (all black) through the viewfinder. Do I need to set anything so that I can see things though it? 2) After winding up the camera, it doesn’t wind down so it doesn’t run (I have pushed the bottom beneath the lens). What’s the problem? I’m looking forward to your help! 🥺🥺
Hey Shaun, Super helpful video! I just bought a K1 but it didn't come with a feed spool and I want to load some Kodak Vision 3. Might be a stupid question but Is there a way of obtaining one without buying another cassette? Thanks
Hi Shaun, thanks for the video. I've got a Krasnogorsk 2 and was wanting to shoot a few different projects on it. I was thinking that I might get a different film cassette for each project and then change between the two, depending on which project I wanted to shoot. Do you think this would work? Obviously I'd be committed to loosing the bit of film that was outside of the cassette, but otherwise would taking the cassette out give me anything else to worry about? Cheers, Jude.
Hi Shaun, Great video BTW. It was very helpful. My Krasnogorsk 1 16mm Camera just came in the mail. I am looking forward to testing it out. Question: Can the film camera ONLY take 30ft film? I purchased a cassette spool that said it can hold both 30 & 100ft of film when shooting.
The rope on my camera is locked, I think it has to do with the serrated nut. It always happens to me the same thing. Do all Kranosgorsk-2 have that problem?
The yellow filters are for adding contrast when shooting black and white film.
That would be awesome: an external 400ft mag (motor for take up spool?) and a crystal sync motor. Here is an idea: perhaps the front of the Krasnogorsk 3 with the M 42 screw mount fits (or can be made to fit) the K-1 and you can have Super 16mm (widened gate and re-centered M42 lens mount). Seen some K-3 bodies without lens on ebay which are very cheap and the re-centering ring is inexpensive as well. OR you could try to fit a more modern and versatile lens mount which I already saw being done successfully on a K-3. IMHO it's worth considering Super 16mm while you are at it, doing quite ambitious modifications. Guess the only thing really impossible is coming up with a top notch Super 16mm viewfinder. I never saw anyone coming up with one and it's probably way too difficult for such an inexpensive camera. Anyway: good luck with your modification project! Please keep us posted on your progress!
truefilm Thanks for your comnent, I won't be considering super16 as I wish to use the side area of the film for comopt sound because I am going to try and make an optical sound head in the camera and I have an anamorphic lens I can use anyway.
Shaun WOW! That sounds like an ambitious project! The Auricon 16mm cameras (for example) have an optical sound head, but you will need extra space (of course you already thought about that) and editing your footage will be next to impossible because of the picture - sound offset (I think it is 28 frames on 16mm film) unless you like that sweet old optical sound, scan and transfer - and edit in digital post. Regarding an anamorphic lens: seen a lot of K-3 footage with a 2x anamorphic lens. A lot doesn't look too great, but it is probably a matter of ill matching lenses. A reverse 2x anamorphic lens for 35mm movie projectors should be perfect for your purposes and large enough to avoid vignetting (you probably have one of these). Good luck with your project. Sounds great!
I have a Sankor 16D lens which would probably work well based on what I saw through the viewfinder although the field of view is pretty narrow as it only works with my 50mm lens. Getting the sound off the film won't be much of a problem as I have a sound projector that I use as a telecine. I can sync sound up from films with ease using that setup. The sound head could be made from an LED connected to an amplifier and in front of that LED would be a thin slit so that a narrow beam of light could shine on the film sound area but I will have to do a lot of testing to make sure it doesn't fog the picture area. I was all over Scotland on a huge holiday last month and I have nearly finished the film project for it. I did the whole thing on 16mm film and at the end I had 1000 feet of it to develop myself.
Sounds great! Yup, you'll probably need a larger anamorphic adapter for wider angles (such as the standard 25mm and shorter).
Good luck with your sound recording head! IMHO the light needs to be of the exact right intensity and that needs a LOT of testing. Add to that the fact that you are hand developing. I LOVE the old 16mm optical sound, especially for dialogue. It has a very limited bandwidth and some noise, but the sound of those vintage tube amplifiers is wonderful. In the end what counts is that YOU enjoy coming up with all these engineering solutions and like the results! Please keep me posted. Can't wait to see some of your work (if you would like to share that is). Cheers!
The light intensity will depend on the ASA rating of the film stock as well as the desired input level. Another idea I've had for sound is to maybe make a striper machine which will cut reel to reel tape to whatever width is needed and then apply that to the film. You can buy striper machines for super8 on ebay but there is no such thing for 16mm. And don't worry, I will be sharing all my work. Since my dad gave me a film SLR camera two years ago I've become obsessed with film and realised just how much more pleasing the picture is than digital.
Hi Shaun. I've recently got hold of a Krasnogorsk 2. It's working great, I've got some old film to experiment with before I buy something to actually film on. My main concern is with the loading of the film. Did you find an easier way to load the film onto the reel that doing it by hand? Also does this need to be done in total darkness or can it be done under a darkroom light? Thanks for any help you can give me. I don't want to wreck my first 16mm film before I start shooting!
It must be done in total darkness and the only other way would be to construct a simple machine to load it.
@@ShaunDobbie Thanks for your reply. Is it possible to use night vision goggles whilst doing this to see what you are doing?
@@asprinwizard Yes as the film is not sensitive to infrared light. Test the goggles in total darkness and if you can see even the slightest light coming from them, they aren't suitable.
@@ShaunDobbie Is there any reason why I couldn't bypass the threading part by using the reel as shown here: photos.app.goo.gl/C6aFxq8RG6VV5DKz9 but with a custom made add on to the spindle that will fit the square-style reel mount so it turns properly? Would this work?
@@asprinwizard hello I know this is old but have you had any luck trying it out? please share
I recently got the K1. In loading the film into a cassette does it still take 100ft respooled?
or does it need to be a smaller measurement. Meaning is cutting the film shorter before respooling needed?
Thanks for the video! I was wondering if you can use two daylight safe film spools in the cassette and load it in daylight?
No, they won't fit.
thanks for posting this, I have a K1 in the mail so this is a big help! I was wondering, some other uploads say that you don't need to load film in a dark room. But that sounds too good to be true, I was wondering if I could use Fomapan R100 Black and White Transparency Film (Super 16mm, 100' Reel) with the K1? Whenever I try to look anything up, I get stuff for the K3, the magazine makes me nervous....
Hello, is there a way to adjust White balance in camera or just set Tungsten or daylight balanced film and use 320 or 5600 lights? Thanks
Many thanks for the video. I have got two questions with regard to this camera. 1) I can’t see anything (all black) through the viewfinder. Do I need to set anything so that I can see things though it? 2) After winding up the camera, it doesn’t wind down so it doesn’t run (I have pushed the bottom beneath the lens). What’s the problem? I’m looking forward to your help! 🥺🥺
thanks for this video. I was wondering how to load these cassettes. What length is the max for them? Can it take 100ft of 16mm film?
Thanks, and yes it will take no more than 100 feet.
cheers!
Please show more videos from this camera, there aren't many if any
Hey Shaun,
Super helpful video!
I just bought a K1 but it didn't come with a feed spool and I want to load some Kodak Vision 3. Might be a stupid question but Is there a way of obtaining one without buying another cassette?
Thanks
Just search ebay for them.
@@ShaunDobbie do you know if the spools are k1 specific?
I have the Same issue. Did you find any Feed Spools? Cant find a specific one on eBay or elswhere.
Hi Shaun, thanks for the video. I've got a Krasnogorsk 2 and was wanting to shoot a few different projects on it. I was thinking that I might get a different film cassette for each project and then change between the two, depending on which project I wanted to shoot. Do you think this would work? Obviously I'd be committed to loosing the bit of film that was outside of the cassette, but otherwise would taking the cassette out give me anything else to worry about? Cheers, Jude.
The cassette can be removed in daylight no problem.
Hi Shaun,
Great video BTW. It was very helpful. My Krasnogorsk 1 16mm Camera just came in the mail. I am looking forward to testing it out. Question: Can the film camera ONLY take 30ft film? I purchased a cassette spool that said it can hold both 30 & 100ft of film when shooting.
Did you ever figure it out?
The rope on my camera is locked, I think it has to do with the serrated nut. It always happens to me the same thing. Do all Kranosgorsk-2 have that problem?
There were no ropes in my camera.
how to set the shutter speed?
Change the frame rate
Load kodak vision3 50d ,set 24fps. Shutter? May be 45?! I do not understand