Auction shop unplugged SRS module, installed fuse and sold it as is. Fifty years in this field has taught me a ton about used car dealers. Every one of them quit coming to us because we refused to patch or coverup these kind of failures. That’s why you didn’t have a follow up visit. I’ve used the headlight trick I learned from you to find shorts. Saved a lot of fuses. Wasted $$ on other short circuit locating devices. Thanks Ivan. Del
Now a lot of people knows that there's a Camry out there with a non-working airbag system and if there's a serious accident where the airbags if working could have made it less serious then it's going to be rough. "As Is" with hidden defects can still be an issue legally. If the dealer specifies that the airbag system is out of order then it's a bit different.
Air bag modules are placed on the console tunnel for a reason. In most every crash involving fatalities it is a known fact that the console tunnel is a survivable place for the airbag module. The airbag module stores forensic information for crash analysis such as which seats were occupied at the time of the crash, if the seat belts were engaged, the vehicle speed at impact , if the brakes were being applied and throttle position.
It sure does. It’s also presentable in courts. Imagine if there were a fatality and someone tampered with the airbags. I bet there would be some litigation there.
From what I have seen, burnt wires smell different than burnt electronics. Also, those very brief spikes we saw wouldn't have burned the wiring harness. Even 20 gauge wire (and probably even thinner) can easily handle 20 amps for 1-2 seconds without any damage or significant heating. 20 gauge wire is rated for around 11 amps continuously and the very brief spikes we saw were barely twice that.
You can see in the diagram the vertical trace from the ETCS fuse doesn't connect to the horizontal trace going to the EFI 2 fuse because there is no dot on the intersection
I wonder if it was caused by a bad electrolytic either shorting internally or leaking caustic electrolyte that soaked inside the board and shorted there. Airbag computers nearly always have a big electrolytic cap inside to store some of the energy required to blow the airbags.
LOL when the ABS module code C1241 was stored. Diagnosed and repaired on my daughters 2009 Camry yesterday. Found bad ground, cleaned and resistance went below 1ohm
I bet this was a known issue beforehand and that fuse was replaced a few times before the sale. Didn't take long for that module to nuke, which indicates to me it was likely cooked long before you ever got to the car.
I’m impressed with your good luck with that AstroAI CM4KOR amp clamp. I ordered one through Amazon and it looked quite high quality but… it only displayed 0 for current. I went through the entire manual, googled, and also did their troubleshooting procedure, no luck. I sent it back and had Amazon send me a replacement. Same results: it wouldn’t read current.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks for the reply! I tried every permutation of settings on that Astro AI amp clamp I could think of: 400A, 40A, while pressing the Func button through all its settings for both 400A and 40A notches. Zeroing out the meter before clamping, as well as not zeroing it out first. I verified that the amp clamp could at least measure AC voltage (via test probes, not clamp). My test rig was: gas furnace power cord ----> KillaWatt device ---> 120 VAC outlet. (The gas furnace has a cord rather than being hardwired into the house lines directly because... we get about 15 power outages a year in suburban Redmond, and I want to be able to power the furnace blower and control panel via a gasoline generator). The KillaWatt was reading 3.4 amps, but the amp clamp (clamped around the furnace's power cord) would briefly flash 2.7 amps, then stay on 0.0. I tried removing the KillaWatt device from the circuit, but got the same results. Put back the KillaWatt device, same results. In all scenarios, I increased the wall thermostat and waited until I could hear the furnace jets and blowers kick on. I also tested the Astro amp clamp batteries (using a different volt meter), they were fine (1.56v). I completely disassembled the amp clamp to look for green crusties or a blown fuse (some meters have 2 fuses). No fuses present. Circuit board was in excellent shape, no discoloration, no loose components. All solder joints looked fine. I actually have an electrical engineering undergrad degree, so I know a little bit about electronics. However I am the very first to admit that I don't know everything. If you have any suggestions for getting the Astro AI to work, I'd love to hear it. I'm not shipping it back to amazon for another week or so. In fact, if you want to take a crack at troubleshooting this AstroAI CM4KOR yourself, I'd be happy to ship it to you - it could make for an interesting PHAD episode! Also, kudos for your excellent cameraman skills and detailed narration. It's really heard to get good shots and lighting when working in the cramped confines of an engine compartment (I've tried, when documenting my own car repairs), and I'm quite impressed at how well you do it, especially in the field. And it's pretty brave to call out predictions (as to the root cause of the error) and show when you're wrong, rather then fixing the problem off camera and then redoing the repair on camera. I'm also impressed that you manage to come up with such a wide variety of novel content; I learn something new from almost every one of your videos.
@@tedjohnson64 ah I only use it in the DC setting for automotive diagnostics... But just tried it on my Furnace blower fan in AC mode and works perfectly, 1.7A AC 👍 Keep in mind that you have to clamp around just one wire at a time for AC measurements 😉 If your clamping the entire cord it will obviously read ZERO amps 😄
When I saw your title for this video, and the fact that it was a 2009 Camry, I thought you got the car started and it shot smoke out the tailpipe. Scotty Kilmer has said these 2008-09 vintage Camrys have faulty piston rings that cause the engine to smoke upon startup. I have a neighbor that has one and it smokes alot on startup. GREAT VIDEO!
I am an electronics technician. Sometimes when I can't find the source of a high amp draw, I just put in a large fuse and look for the smoke. LOL It's the lazy mans troubleshooting procedure.
This takes me back to the 1960s with the glass SFE and AGC fuses and the test equipment was a piece of a nail the size of the fuse with a ring welded to it. Put it in, watch for smoke and pull it out. Fords in that era were prone to popping brake light fuses. It was usually the pressure switch near the master cylinder shorting out but sometimes it was the turn signal switch. Ford's replacement switch had a different wire color code and was sent without the wires installed in the connector so they could be fed through the steering column tube then installed in the connector. There was an installation instruction sheet included but many mechanics never bothered to read it so they just matched the wire colors to the original connector.
Showing your age “Tired old mechanic “. I remember and have replaced them. No phones to take pics either. I’m gonna take a nap just thinkin bout the 70’s. That’s when I started in this business and my age too ‼️
I know you have explained it before, but will you explain using the 4 amp test light in place of the fuse in a future scenario? Also, thanks for sharing all of this!
That generation of Camry was so ugly they were scary! Perfect car to work on for Halloween! My concern is that the wiring going to the roasted module isn't toasted as well.
Not sure why you put a 30 amp fuse in a 10 amp hole. I was an electrician for a couple years-- it's probably less of an issue in a car, but in houses: the breaker rating is directly related to the size of the wire; so you never put an overrated breaker because it's prone to start fires, etc. I can understand not wanting to waste/ burn up fuses, but jumping to such a high fuse just adds risk without any real benefit. It's better to just always have little switchable breakers in your kit.
Wire has two ratings, continuous and intermittent. In fact, there are things called slow blow fuses that allow you to briefly pull a lot more current than the rating for loads like motors starting up. He didn't explain himself here, but I suspect he was trying to figure out if it was a little over or a lot over. As long as you're there to stop it quickly - he had a meter on it - it probably isn't that bad. You certainly don't want to leave a 30A fuse in there after you leave.
@calholli. It’s worse in cars - wiring is not run in metal raceway so if it suddenly smokes you may not be able to see the road. I know this personally.
This was for temporary testing purposes only. Pretty cool how the test itself actually finished off the culprit module and actually fixed the short circuit without any disassembly 😉 DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME haha
Wish i lived near you my car developed a short within the instrumental cluster connector that causes the tail light fuse to pop everytime you try to turn on the taillights with the cluster plugged in unplug it and taillights work just fine fuse doesnt blow.
The first shop I went to gave me the wiring diagram problem is I think the printer was garbage because I can barley understand a damn thing the texts says on there 🤣
Very cool diagnosis. Might be a good idea to start every job by checking the engine oil level. You don't want to be on the hook for a motor seizing up 'cuz it was out of oil. You guys have a safe Halloween! 🎃
Seen it had a CJ Jeep come into the shop driven by the owner for a water pump replacement good thing the oil was checked before driving it into the garage it had maybe a quarter quart of oil or less in the oil pan
Great troubleshooting! Such a shame that things are in places that require extreme disassembly. Another reason to trade cars (planned by manufacturer). The wife's 2007 Camry had a bad evaporator, so the entire dash came out to the tune of $1200. Barely worth it on a 200k mile vehicle......
Once again, when it comes to auto electrical diagnosis, Ivan PHAD, second to none. Well done. Love to know if dealer followed up on SRS module replacement, or did what commenter dharley speculated.
I know I’m late to this, but Toyota had a campaign for srs modules, being they are below the cup holders and people tend to spill stuff, it ends up wiping out the module, my corolla was checked for it and I was fine
Pine Hollow Auto Smoke'nostics, lol. ...I guess it is okay to apply this particular diagnostic process to an auction car that cranks unevenly. If you see in service data that the airbag module is on that fuse, showing offline in the scan, and buried under a ton of other stuff, you can do the "controlled burn". It will be a 'quick fix no parts required' for an owner who doesn't care about airbags.
There are times when letting the magic smoke out is a good trouble shooting technique. You have to be very careful using it, because a lot more damage can happen.
Wouldn't the same symptoms occur if a feed wire to the SRT circuit was intermittantly shorting and finally melted the wire through? The module might still be good?
Wouldn’t using a 10 amp circuit breaker have shown the same fault without the risk of overloading the wiring? I’m sure you know this, but a lot of people don’t know the main function of the fuse is to protect the conductors not the device.
The 10amp fused protected the circuit. You put in a 30amp fuse and then smelled electrical burning. Why would you do that? Fried items past the 30amp fuse is on you.
Why would you EVER toss in a 30 amp fuse in a circuit for 10 amps ? ESPECIALLY the EFI circuits of a Toyota !!!! Well OF course something's gonna FRY..... Amazingly you didn't fry the 14 or 16 g harness carrying that amount of current......... Invest in a re-settable 10amp cb kits.
Selling used cars for cheap? Not these days. Everyone thinks a clapped out wreck is worth gold. I have never seen it as bad as it is now for used car prices. Maybe you meant a dealer being cheap in repairing a used car to maximize profit.
Yea they think their cars are worth gold until it comes time to charge them to fix one. Then you're trying to rob them if you expect more than slave wages.
I bet you that you did the work for tried to blame you for the fried module so that's why there was no feedback from them. I started off working for a company where the owner of the company was like that, once someone became a tradesperson he expected them to be infallible. I wasn't working for his main company but the tradespeople were only getting paid $18 AUD per hour 25 years ago & he was expecting miracles from them, there's no such thing particularly when he was only paying them that much money. You could tell him the module got fried but he still wouldn't understand why it all of the sudden would let the smoke out,he would try to lay the blame on you !
I wish you were a few hours closer.... Even after a reset on my 2007 2.7L Tacoma, I get an IMMEDIATE P0171 and delayed P2195. Sensors "appear" normal, and no vacuum leaks found. No really noticable drivability problems, other than rough idle. Handles load and acceleration with no noticeable issue..fuel pressure check is next, but I suspect it's also ok...
Auction shop unplugged SRS module, installed fuse and sold it as is.
Fifty years in this field has taught me a ton about used car dealers. Every one of them quit coming to us because we refused to patch or coverup these kind of failures.
That’s why you didn’t have a follow up visit.
I’ve used the headlight trick I learned from you to find shorts. Saved a lot of fuses. Wasted $$ on other short circuit locating devices.
Thanks Ivan. Del
Now a lot of people knows that there's a Camry out there with a non-working airbag system and if there's a serious accident where the airbags if working could have made it less serious then it's going to be rough. "As Is" with hidden defects can still be an issue legally. If the dealer specifies that the airbag system is out of order then it's a bit different.
that would make the air bags inop, correct? That could be a federal violation if they did that "workaround".
I don't think it is hidden. The airbag light is on. Also this is at a shop that could have replaced the module there self.
Actually unplugging the airbag module would be too much effort. Car is driveable as-is haha
Was about to post the exact same thing. Gotta love mom and pop shady car dealers. They keep the roads interesting and good drivers on their toes. 😅
Air bag modules are placed on the console tunnel for a reason. In most every crash involving fatalities it is a known fact that the console tunnel is a survivable place for the airbag module. The airbag module stores forensic information for crash analysis such as which seats were occupied at the time of the crash, if the seat belts were engaged, the vehicle speed at impact , if the brakes were being applied and throttle position.
So the airbag module basically acts as a black box?
@@wernerdanler2742yes
Doubt that. Its prob the cheapest place to put it.
It sure does. It’s also presentable in courts. Imagine if there were a fatality and someone tampered with the airbags. I bet there would be some litigation there.
@@mph5896if that was the case gm would put it somewhere it could get corroded
I would not put 30A fuse in 10A holder -- I would be too scared to burn out wiring harness. The smoke could be just wire burning.
From what I have seen, burnt wires smell different than burnt electronics. Also, those very brief spikes we saw wouldn't have burned the wiring harness. Even 20 gauge wire (and probably even thinner) can easily handle 20 amps for 1-2 seconds without any damage or significant heating. 20 gauge wire is rated for around 11 amps continuously and the very brief spikes we saw were barely twice that.
@@averyalexander2303 Correct
Imagine all modules being placed in a few easily accessible banks on vehicles. Sure would be nice! Great pinpoint diag man 👍
my auto professor jokes about the HVAC module, auto manufacturers put that in first and then build the rest of the car around it
You can see in the diagram the vertical trace from the ETCS fuse doesn't connect to the horizontal trace going to the EFI 2 fuse because there is no dot on the intersection
I wonder if it was caused by a bad electrolytic either shorting internally or leaking caustic electrolyte that soaked inside the board and shorted there. Airbag computers nearly always have a big electrolytic cap inside to store some of the energy required to blow the airbags.
@@brainndamage I was curious about that too... But not curious enough to spend an hour ripping the dash apart LOL
I feel for the next lucky owner of these orphan auction gems.
You definitely solved the no start with a bonus intermittent smoke show. Let out the smoke to show where the problem is! Spooktacular!
At the end I was waiting for you two to pop on screen in your Halloween costumes again! Magic smoke can be real spooky! 🎃🎃👻
Nice hubcap floor mats. That was the luxury upgrade package.
LOL when the ABS module code C1241 was stored. Diagnosed and repaired on my daughters 2009 Camry yesterday. Found bad ground, cleaned and resistance went below 1ohm
Since watching your videos I have learned many things... Excellent video, greetings from Venezuela
I bet this was a known issue beforehand and that fuse was replaced a few times before the sale. Didn't take long for that module to nuke, which indicates to me it was likely cooked long before you ever got to the car.
I’m impressed with your good luck with that AstroAI CM4KOR amp clamp. I ordered one through Amazon and it looked quite high quality but… it only displayed 0 for current. I went through the entire manual, googled, and also did their troubleshooting procedure, no luck. I sent it back and had Amazon send me a replacement. Same results: it wouldn’t read current.
What setting did you have it on for current? Never had an issue with the Astro amp clamp...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks for the reply! I tried every permutation of settings on that Astro AI amp clamp I could think of: 400A, 40A, while pressing the Func button through all its settings for both 400A and 40A notches. Zeroing out the meter before clamping, as well as not zeroing it out first. I verified that the amp clamp could at least measure AC voltage (via test probes, not clamp). My test rig was: gas furnace power cord ----> KillaWatt device ---> 120 VAC outlet. (The gas furnace has a cord rather than being hardwired into the house lines directly because... we get about 15 power outages a year in suburban Redmond, and I want to be able to power the furnace blower and control panel via a gasoline generator).
The KillaWatt was reading 3.4 amps, but the amp clamp (clamped around the furnace's power cord) would briefly flash 2.7 amps, then stay on 0.0. I tried removing the KillaWatt device from the circuit, but got the same results. Put back the KillaWatt device, same results. In all scenarios, I increased the wall thermostat and waited until I could hear the furnace jets and blowers kick on. I also tested the Astro amp clamp batteries (using a different volt meter), they were fine (1.56v). I completely disassembled the amp clamp to look for green crusties or a blown fuse (some meters have 2 fuses). No fuses present. Circuit board was in excellent shape, no discoloration, no loose components. All solder joints looked fine.
I actually have an electrical engineering undergrad degree, so I know a little bit about electronics. However I am the very first to admit that I don't know everything. If you have any suggestions for getting the Astro AI to work, I'd love to hear it. I'm not shipping it back to amazon for another week or so. In fact, if you want to take a crack at troubleshooting this AstroAI CM4KOR yourself, I'd be happy to ship it to you - it could make for an interesting PHAD episode!
Also, kudos for your excellent cameraman skills and detailed narration. It's really heard to get good shots and lighting when working in the cramped confines of an engine compartment (I've tried, when documenting my own car repairs), and I'm quite impressed at how well you do it, especially in the field. And it's pretty brave to call out predictions (as to the root cause of the error) and show when you're wrong, rather then fixing the problem off camera and then redoing the repair on camera. I'm also impressed that you manage to come up with such a wide variety of novel content; I learn something new from almost every one of your videos.
@@tedjohnson64 ah I only use it in the DC setting for automotive diagnostics...
But just tried it on my Furnace blower fan in AC mode and works perfectly, 1.7A AC 👍
Keep in mind that you have to clamp around just one wire at a time for AC measurements 😉
If your clamping the entire cord it will obviously read ZERO amps 😄
I really like your test lights, but be careful they could leave a burn mark in the carpet. They get hot! You Ivan are a master troubleshooter.
Amazing to me that you think he needs to hear something like that from a TH-cam comment.
Yeah, the module is likely cooked - but did anything external cook it? Perhaps shorted airbag lines that are supposed to have power?
When I saw your title for this video, and the fact that it was a 2009 Camry, I thought you got the car started and it shot smoke out the tailpipe. Scotty Kilmer has said these 2008-09 vintage Camrys have faulty piston rings that cause the engine to smoke upon startup. I have a neighbor that has one and it smokes alot on startup. GREAT VIDEO!
I am an electronics technician. Sometimes when I can't find the source of a high amp draw, I just put in a large fuse and look for the smoke. LOL It's the lazy mans troubleshooting procedure.
Haha worked out beautifully in this case and actually fixed the short 😆
Definitely not a recommended method for DIY diagnostics 🙄
I did that once on a VW Bug. With less than satisfactory results.@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
this a very good and confusing video great job you are a superstar in the automotive world
Happy Halloween, keep up the great work
Auction cars are full of surprises...great explanation sir.cheers
faiy certain all camrys are made at tmmk in Georgetown ky. its a real cool plant. if you are ever down i75 i recommend the tour. it is awesome.
Yeah I guess it's built in America for Americans 😁 Maybe the rare Camry wagon was Japan made?
This takes me back to the 1960s with the glass SFE and AGC fuses and the test equipment was a piece of a nail the size of the fuse with a ring welded to it. Put it in, watch for smoke and pull it out. Fords in that era were prone to popping brake light fuses. It was usually the pressure switch near the master cylinder shorting out but sometimes it was the turn signal switch. Ford's replacement switch had a different wire color code and was sent without the wires installed in the connector so they could be fed through the steering column tube then installed in the connector. There was an installation instruction sheet included but many mechanics never bothered to read it so they just matched the wire colors to the original connector.
Showing your age “Tired old mechanic “. I remember and have replaced them. No phones to take pics either. I’m gonna take a nap just thinkin bout the 70’s. That’s when I started in this business and my age too ‼️
Lol😂😂😂.. install a 30 amp fuse. Whatcha expecting Ivan.
The original “smoke test” before we started smoking cars for vacuum leaks and such with smoke machines lol
Happy Halloween Ivan. Be careful that Camry is Haunted .
I know you have explained it before, but will you explain using the 4 amp test light in place of the fuse in a future scenario? Also, thanks for sharing all of this!
Never, ever let the magic smoke out of the box. Thanks Ivan.
Why not? It's fun! And it fixed the car!! ;)
Reminiscent of a Staten Island video 😆😆!!! Happy Halloween Ivan.
Hey Dave! Good to see you in the comments section! Hope all is well!
That generation of Camry was so ugly they were scary! Perfect car to work on for Halloween! My concern is that the wiring going to the roasted module isn't toasted as well.
As Eric O. Would say, not all cars at the auction are junk but all junk cars are at the auction
Not sure why you put a 30 amp fuse in a 10 amp hole. I was an electrician for a couple years-- it's probably less of an issue in a car, but in houses: the breaker rating is directly related to the size of the wire; so you never put an overrated breaker because it's prone to start fires, etc. I can understand not wanting to waste/ burn up fuses, but jumping to such a high fuse just adds risk without any real benefit. It's better to just always have little switchable breakers in your kit.
Wire has two ratings, continuous and intermittent. In fact, there are things called slow blow fuses that allow you to briefly pull a lot more current than the rating for loads like motors starting up. He didn't explain himself here, but I suspect he was trying to figure out if it was a little over or a lot over. As long as you're there to stop it quickly - he had a meter on it - it probably isn't that bad. You certainly don't want to leave a 30A fuse in there after you leave.
@calholli. It’s worse in cars - wiring is not run in metal raceway so if it suddenly smokes you may not be able to see the road. I know this personally.
You can put whatever high amp fuse in you want, the wire will become the fuse, problem solved.
yep concerned me as well, his channel his video
This was for temporary testing purposes only. Pretty cool how the test itself actually finished off the culprit module and actually fixed the short circuit without any disassembly 😉
DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME haha
Wish i lived near you my car developed a short within the instrumental cluster connector that causes the tail light fuse to pop everytime you try to turn on the taillights with the cluster plugged in unplug it and taillights work just fine fuse doesnt blow.
Now that is weird! Get some wiring diagrams and trace the short!
The first shop I went to gave me the wiring diagram problem is I think the printer was garbage because I can barley understand a damn thing the texts says on there 🤣
The fix. Disconnect SRS module, turn out the light and sell car as a parts car. HMMMMMM!
Good diagnostic video Ivan.
Airbag module, that's different.
Bulbs are so handy, old school testing works :-D
Very cool diagnosis.
Might be a good idea to start every job by checking the engine oil level.
You don't want to be on the hook for a motor seizing up 'cuz it was out of oil.
You guys have a safe Halloween! 🎃
First thing I did was check the oil level off camera before even cranking it lol
Seen it had a CJ Jeep come into the shop driven by the owner for a water pump replacement good thing the oil was checked before driving it into the garage it had maybe a quarter quart of oil or less in the oil pan
Great troubleshooting! Such a shame that things are in places that require extreme disassembly. Another reason to trade cars (planned by manufacturer). The wife's 2007 Camry had a bad evaporator, so the entire dash came out to the tune of $1200. Barely worth it on a 200k mile vehicle......
That's like 3 months of car payment. It was worth it.
It's designed that way so it survives a crash, kind of like a "black box" in a train or airplane...
Maybe Wilbert's UPICKIT in Avoca NY has a module in that old Audi in ROW37 😂
Great video and diagnosis. At least the ghost only let out smoke of that airbag module and not all the airbags like in Paul’s video. 😂😂
Once again, when it comes to auto electrical diagnosis, Ivan PHAD, second to none. Well done. Love to know if dealer followed up on SRS module replacement, or did what commenter dharley speculated.
It's kind of a Shady used car lot 😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Thanks for the reply Ivan. So dharley could be on to something. 😉
kinda? lmao.. ur one of the few good ones peace@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Aren't they all shady?
Spooky 🎃🎃👍👍
one smart dude ... thats all
I know where you can get a bottle of replacement smoke , just in case !
Good video Ivan thanks for sharing
I know I’m late to this, but Toyota had a campaign for srs modules, being they are below the cup holders and people tend to spill stuff, it ends up wiping out the module, my corolla was checked for it and I was fine
Thanks for the video
In the remodeling industry we called that the smoke test.
Thanks Ivan!
Happy Halloween, John!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Happy Halloween Ivan!
Ivan is the man
Pine Hollow Auto Smoke'nostics, lol. ...I guess it is okay to apply this particular diagnostic process to an auction car that cranks unevenly.
If you see in service data that the airbag module is on that fuse, showing offline in the scan, and buried under a ton of other stuff, you can do the "controlled burn".
It will be a 'quick fix no parts required' for an owner who doesn't care about airbags.
"controlled burn"... I like that! 😁
Dropping vids EARLY.
Always check the "legs" or pins are attached. MORE THAN ONCE I HAVE SEEN THEM CUT OFF!🙃
What is the tiny sound in exhaust? I have same Camry with same sound.
Probably a loose heat shield...
Definitely a squirrel.
those mini side fuses suck. they make so little contact with pin inside the fuse back. ive seen a bunch melt the sides of the fuse. and pins.
That's a technique that I have used on the rare occasion when I couldn't figure anything else: short the fuse and watch for the smoke.
Hi there, greetings from the UK, I watch your diagnosis videos with interest. What website do you use for the wiring diagrams.
ALLDATA
when you say this is confusing i know i would be in trouble
I wonder if you could just disconnect the airbag unit's cable and see if that fixes it?
Wouldn't make a difference after I finished frying it 😉
Great job. I have a question, is your test light setup is in series parallel;
i think its a secret
let the magic smoke out!
Happy Samhain Ivan
Always enjoy your troubleshooting electrical prowess. Deserve props in your tenaciry in taking on these "challenges" & solving these issues...
Ivan, did you miss a trick here ?. . . . could have titled this "HOLLOWeen" special.
Funny
guess there was a reason that was a 10A fuse after all.....
Good morning
Big ups to Ivan Again!
There are times when letting the magic smoke out is a good trouble shooting technique. You have to be very careful using it, because a lot more damage can happen.
Wakey wakey
Bad Clock Spring?!🤔
?
Wouldn't the same symptoms occur if a feed wire to the SRT circuit was intermittantly shorting and finally melted the wire through? The module might still be good?
Not in this case. Module was offline even when short wasn't present 👍
Never let the magic smoke out.
Tech tip: If you see a 4-way junction on a wiring diagram and there is no black dot, the wires are NOT connected.
Where do you get those high amp load test lights from?
The scrap bin 😎
A T ota ??? 🤷♀️
Wouldn’t using a 10 amp circuit breaker have shown the same fault without the risk of overloading the wiring? I’m sure you know this, but a lot of people don’t know the main function of the fuse is to protect the conductors not the device.
yes, but it wouldn't have fixed the fault without extra parts or labor LOL
I will just keep keep installing a bigger and bigger fuse until the problem identifies itself elsewhere-just kidding
But technically, they called you out for a blown fuse. They could have replaced the fuse and been at the same point you are with the airbag module.
Fuse would have kept blowing on them. I actually fixed the car haha
Ivan is MAGA: Making Autos Great Again 😉
Smoke Machine...
ConFUSEing .... get it? Confu ... Never mind ....
I think I watch too much EricO content 😂
Please say you checked the oil before you started it up😮
I was wondering the same thing.
Absolutely 😊👍
Very strange to me that so many of you think he'd make such a rooky mistake.
@@jamesofallthings3684 Just asking the question. No more no less.
👍
Who let the smoke out?...poof, poof....Who let the smoke out?....poof, poof...🙃😉🙂
I would wager someone spilled their drink on the center console and that probably killed it.
The 10amp fused protected the circuit. You put in a 30amp fuse and then smelled electrical burning. Why would you do that? Fried items past the 30amp fuse is on you.
I fixed the short circuit then put a 10 amp fuse back in 😉
Why would you EVER toss in a 30 amp fuse in a circuit for 10 amps ? ESPECIALLY the EFI circuits of a Toyota !!!! Well OF course something's gonna FRY..... Amazingly you didn't fry the 14 or 16 g harness carrying that amount of current......... Invest in a re-settable 10amp cb kits.
I should have used my 20A circuit breaker 🙂🔥
Good Morning St Ivan of the lost cars!
🤦♂
Grasias
Selling used cars for cheap? Not these days. Everyone thinks a clapped out wreck is worth gold. I have never seen it as bad as it is now for used car prices.
Maybe you meant a dealer being cheap in repairing a used car to maximize profit.
Cheaper than the competition?
Yea they think their cars are worth gold until it comes time to charge them to fix one. Then you're trying to rob them if you expect more than slave wages.
I bet you that you did the work for tried to blame you for the fried module so that's why there was no feedback from them.
I started off working for a company where the owner of the company was like that, once someone became a tradesperson he expected them to be infallible.
I wasn't working for his main company but the tradespeople were only getting paid $18 AUD per hour 25 years ago & he was expecting miracles from them, there's no such thing particularly when he was only paying them that much money.
You could tell him the module got fried but he still wouldn't understand why it all of the sudden would let the smoke out,he would try to lay the blame on you !
Nah he was very happy that I just got the car running 😊
Funny thing about electronics..once you let the smoke out they quit working...
It wasn't working even before letting the smoke out...at least now it's not blowing fuses anymore 😉😎
What if you have a wiring diagram and no common sense. Yikes.....
I wish you were a few hours closer.... Even after a reset on my 2007 2.7L Tacoma, I get an IMMEDIATE P0171 and delayed P2195. Sensors "appear" normal, and no vacuum leaks found. No really noticable drivability problems, other than rough idle. Handles load and acceleration with no noticeable issue..fuel pressure check is next, but I suspect it's also ok...