all u gotta do for lift is put the tungston on the metal or pcs that are being welded wait a few seconds and slowley lift up or rock it. lift tig is a pain to do in general but after u do it a few hundred times
I have tried contacting Thermal Arc but have had problems with their website sending the message. I cannot seem to figure out how to scratch start tig in "lift tig" mode. This works great on the Miller welders I have used but on the Thermal Arc machine it only seens to work if I put it into "stick" mode. The arc is usable but not an ideal way to tig. I am curious if there is something wrong with my machine or if it was designed not to allow scratch start or professional tig torches to be used.
I tig weld for a living, I know how to lift tig. It turns out to be what I consider a flaw in the design of the machine. A comparable tig machine from Miller (ie. Maxstar or CST) do not require remote controls or proprietary torches to do lift tig; the Thermal Arc machine does. Basically, one way or another you need to waste $200 extra you shouldn't need to spend. If the machine only operates in lift mode a mandatory remote switch makes no sense. A pedal is nice but not always.
I sold my miller 211 auto set after I got offered a great deal on 211I. The 211I was just cheap the paint is faded already, the on/off switch is a breaker, the wire feed system is idiotic, stickers all self pealed off, made in china, and although its never been out of garage it looks rallied. The miller was a far better machine and I could live with it being a lead brick for good American quality amd still looking brand new after 3 years of use. Buying the miller 212 after lose the piece of jnk
I have a cargo container going to Doha STP in November. Might be able to help.
all u gotta do for lift is put the tungston on the metal or pcs that are being welded wait a few seconds and slowley lift up or rock it. lift tig is a pain to do in general but after u do it a few hundred times
I have tried contacting Thermal Arc but have had problems with their website sending the message. I cannot seem to figure out how to scratch start tig in "lift tig" mode. This works great on the Miller welders I have used but on the Thermal Arc machine it only seens to work if I put it into "stick" mode. The arc is usable but not an ideal way to tig. I am curious if there is something wrong with my machine or if it was designed not to allow scratch start or professional tig torches to be used.
is this the same machine as the cigweld transmig 200i
It is the same as the Cigweld Transmig 175i but the 175i does not have a spool gun switch.
Why does my 211i have a pos ground while the 181 looks nice
Tungsten non consumable???
How can I order??? i'm here in Qatar......huuhh...
I tig weld for a living, I know how to lift tig. It turns out to be what I consider a flaw in the design of the machine. A comparable tig machine from Miller (ie. Maxstar or CST) do not require remote controls or proprietary torches to do lift tig; the Thermal Arc machine does. Basically, one way or another you need to waste $200 extra you shouldn't need to spend. If the machine only operates in lift mode a mandatory remote switch makes no sense. A pedal is nice but not always.
Nice Machine
miller its the best...
I sold my miller 211 auto set after I got offered a great deal on 211I. The 211I was just cheap the paint is faded already, the on/off switch is a breaker, the wire feed system is idiotic, stickers all self pealed off, made in china, and although its never been out of garage it looks rallied. The miller was a far better machine and I could live with it being a lead brick for good American quality amd still looking brand new after 3 years of use. Buying the miller 212 after lose the piece of jnk