About that 9s shifter+cassette and 10s derrailleur - sorry Anna, but that's bs. Derailleur doesn't "assume" anything, its position is dictated by cable pull from the shifter and (properly adjusted) derailleur uses the entire cassette range, which is exactly the same width for 8s, 9s and 10s. The only thing is to make sure shifter and derailleur have the same cable pull ratio (safest bet - same make and generation). I'm running 8s shifters and cassette on 9s derailleur and I would never notice it if I hadn't have checked it in the derailleur spec
Exactly. I don't think she knows how derailleur works. You could even run 12 speed on a tourney using goatlinks. The only difference in derailleurs is the length of the cage for larger cogs.
As you connect your shock pump to your shock or fork you will feel a point where it has sealed against the valve stem but not yet opened the valve. At this point pressurise the pump to your normal pressure and then proceed to screw the pump on further to open the valve. Equalising the pump before the valve is opened will give you a more accurate reading.It's a trick I've been using for years and gives you the most accurate reading possible.
Talking of rust removal i recently removed rust from some cheap chromed fork stanchions using some scrunched up aluminium foil. I was amazed at how well it worked. Also for light paint scratches you can put a bit of silicone oil / grease on a rag and polish it. Its amazing how well it can make them disappear.
For the heavy rider, If fox doesnt work...Try a rockshox equivalent for your shock. RS max pressure 320psi. RS forks take higher max air pressure, as well.
Thank you, that makes perfect sense. I was just having a mental struggle with this and then found your video and now I feel much better. Thank you so much
My shock pump will certainly drop pressure. If I don't unscrew the pump super fast, about 3-4 twists of the connector will leave the valve half-pushed, and air will rush out. My friends RockShox pump will not do the same thing, so I think it depends on the pump. I suspect the RockShox pump stays airtight to the threads long.
Anna is right... RS prob say that due to the total myth u loose pressure on unscrewing. Think about how many turns u have to do screwing it on before any pressure registers!
@@ibewillow RS talking utter bs... Never seen that anywhere... And the loss would be entirely dependent on the pressure also, not some arbitrary figure.
Easy to test that. Just unscrew shock pump slowly until u just start to hear it hiss. And leave it at that position... It it is faulty and is letting pressure out the shock/fork (rather than just what's in the pump) it would obviously continue to hiss until ur shock was empty and it would sag right down. If it does, ur pump is faulty.
In my own testing, when I overfill the shock by 10-15psi and then reconnect to test PSI while keeping the pump body collapsed (and not extended) the shock is at my preferred PSI. This indicates that I am indeed losing air in the shock when disconnecting the pump. It seems logical to me that while unscrewing the pump’s schrader connector, the schrader valve is releasing air, similar to when you might depress the schrader valve on a tube or presta tubeless valve. It’s irrelevant if the air is in your shock pump hose or pump body. The issue is made worse if your pump’s schrader connector is short, round, and too tight to get good purchase with your fingers, as it’s more difficult to unscrew it quickly from the shock schrader valve to limit air loss. Rockshox have this problem more than Fox IMO, due to their valve placement on the shocks. Another way to test is to try and place a gauge on the shock and even the most momentary movement of the air gauge on the shock’s valve will release air, with a substantial amount of PSI drop. It’s super annoying. I’ve found that the fork has much less loss, simply because of the ability to unscrew the pump schrader connection quicker.
There's a lot less pressure in the fork which means you loose less because of that fact. I have tried a gauge (Topeak D2X) and I just instantly lost 30 psi while trying to connect it to a rear shock with 210psi in it. I tried more times but I just couldn't make a connection without lots of air just farting out in a jiffy. It's a bit weird when Topeak even have images of testing this gauge on shocks and forks. I did manage to get a connection on the fork though, but that's only 88psi so a lot less force on that schrader valve. PS: If you suspect air loss just test sag with pump attached, and then *_without_* the pump attached. If the readings vary too much you got a drop in psi, if not things are golden.
The 10 speed derailleur with a 9 speed cassette and shifter will work just fine, the shifter determines the setting/placement of the derailleur ???? . The only issue is the jockey wheels are slightly less wide.
I would totally agree with you, the shifter dictates the increments, derailleur will follow “orders”. Narrower jockey wheels should not be a problem, wider would. At any case replacing the jockey wheels is a cheap option.
Basic rule of thumb. If your hands hurt raise your bars. If your feet/legs hurt drop the bar height. It's about evening out the body load front to rear.
Well Anna Really mangled the derailleur question, the key bit is pull ratio and she never mentioned it, beginning to think this channel is beyond her knowledge.
Not really... She used the word 'increments' instead of pull ratio to explain a accurate answer, because more people will likely to understand that, than pull ratios
bit embarrassing isn't it? we have to understand that this show is infotainment, but unfortunately that will be missed by the less informed and lead them astray. this isn't the first or last time a simple concept any decent mechanic would know got butchered on this platform
Where is Doddy? Surely whoever manages their social media must see the requests for clarity on this? People love Doddy and have invested a lot of time into watching the channel.
Interesting. I always thought Schrader valves hissing at disconnect was caused by air leaking from tires and/or forks (in this case). That it comes from pressure from air in the pump is new information to me. My main objection to Schrader over the years with tires (as opposed to Presta) was in this air loss while unscrewing the Schrader valve. This provides new perspective.
Small rust chips in paint... If you don't want to sand the chip and make a bigger patch to repair.. don't just fill the rusty chip hole with the correct paint as the rust is already there... it will rust through the paint. Go research a "Rust Converter". The idea of using a rust CONVERTER is that you don't remove the surface rust (if it's a thick/big patch you remove loose rust) but the converter actually changes the Ferris/ferric oxide into a different Non oxidising coating.. basically converting the rust into a protective non rusting coat. (A lot of the ones I have used often turn purple/black on rust and remain the color of the product on clean metal.) These products can often be applied with a cotton bud or toothpick and the paint goes straight on top once dry. (I had one product that was white and appeared that the rust came through fairly quickly... but the actual product stained yellow where it was working (not the best choice but maybe the only choice they had in chemical reaction) but lasted years without any actual rust coming through the paint (and we didn't paint over it as it was the floor of a van).
Shock Pump issue... Get a pump with the lever on the connector (Mine is a Giyo which is almost exactly the same as Rockshocx but has a tiny lever on the end of the hose). You screw it on, flip the lever that pushes the valve pin and shows the pressure in the shock (and of course looses a little pressure as you just filled the hose from your shock). Now you pump up the shock and the gauge on the pump is accurate. then you release the lever and it closes the valve.. (loosing the tiniest bit of air in the cap of the connector only, and NONE (from the shock) when you unscrew it) There is a pressure release button to lower the pressure if you over pump.. you can use that to release the pressure in the hose before removing if you want but with the lever released the shock valve is closed, nothing you do with the pump now will affect that correct pressure you put in... But after all that, the correct pressure is only a guideline... sit on the bike and check the sag.. (and even sag is only suggested... ride and see what happens with your o-ring indicator and feel for how it rides at certain sag settings... Don't just settle for factory values... its your bike and your butt... set it to suit! You can leave the pump connected while doing that and pump/release till you have it just right (take note of the sag position that worked best in your experiments and use that as your target, not the pressure (although once you know what that is you should get very close to your last sag level using the same pressure.
Doddy ???? it’s amazing the channel doesn’t make a statement at the very least whether he’s having personal time a holiday or will be back in a few weeks or not at all. He’s been posting quite regularly on Facebook might have to message him direct
@gmbntech Bike fitting 101. We never touch the front of our bike until the back is sorted. A lot of times, pain or pressure in the hand is related to saddle position. Make sure that is perfect before you change stem length. While a dated method, KOPS will get you close.
And don't forget that the width of the bars, back/up sweep counts a lot too, not just the stem and the rise. It all depends on what kind of pain he has. I haven't tried it, but road bikefitters say that rising the bar is actually causes more handpressure as you will hold your torso on it more, while lowering it makes your back to hold your torso. I guess this only applies to more aggressive positions, not the touring upright one, but we don't know his position (90mm stem from the factory sounds like an aggressieve xc bike, or a cheap touring one).
computer monitor to view youtube hints and tips in the cave while working, maybe with a not so sensitive keyboard and mouse so that you can use it even with dirty hands
Hi! Love you guys, Anna and Doddy! I have an #askgmbntech question. I have a 2022 Specialized Stumpjumper Alloy with RockShox 35 (140) up front and an X-Fusion rear (130) and given my weight and riding style I want to upgrade them. Geometry-wise, will going for a 160mm fork be too much? Is there like a ratio between front and rear travel I should follow? I'm 1.84m tall and weight around 100kg, my bike is size S5 (XL). PS: already upgraded the transmission to a full XT system and GR2 brakes, suspension is now my main objective.
#AskGMBNTech Hi there, I have a 2014 Specialized Demo and I was wondering what kind of chain guide goes with that frame (like ISCG 05 or any other kind) and if the BB affects anything on the guide. Thanks, love the show.
So so true Anna re pumps... Its a total myth (unless ur pump is faulty maybe). Simple to prove/test as well... Just unscrew shock pump slowly until u just start to hear it hiss. And leave it at that position... It it were letting pressure out the shock/fork (rather than just what's in the pump) it would obviously continue to hiss until ur shock was empty and it would sag right down.... But it won't... (assuming it's not faulty pump obvs).
You can also limit hiss time by adding an extra gasket into the pump head to retain pressure longer while you are unscrewing. By the time you are reaching the end of the thread, the valve head should be back in closed position, and the only hiss you get is the remaining air stuck inside the head.
#AskGMBNTech Hi, I bought a nice 2021 Mondraker Superfoxy bike. It has a standard SuperBoost Plus 157x12mm rear hub, with a 56.5mm chainline. When backpedaling on the two largest chainrings 42T and 50T, the chain fell off ... I replaced the front chainring to 32T oval with a real offset of 2mm (I always ride oval). The original Sram had a 3mm offset, so things got even worse. The chainline was 57.5mm and when backpedaling, you can guess what was going on. I decided to swap the dub bottom bracket spacers from the left 4.5mm to the right side, and right side 9mm to left. Currently the chainline is 53mm and it works great, and when pedaling backwards the chain doesn't fall off either, but it's now closer to the 52mm boost standard than the 56.5mm SuperBoost. Can this 53mm chainline cause problems with SuperBoost Plus hub?
#askgmbntech I have noticed across all gmbn channels an abundance of Orbeas, Nukeproofs, and Canyons. Does this have to do with sponsorships or just the preferences of gmbn staff/presenters?
Has anyone here with a full sus bike experienced their rear air shock's main chamber leak air into the negative chamber with the lockout (or in my case, "compression adjuster") engaged? The main chamber usually leaks psi to the negative one way past the negative's maximum stated by the manufacturer, which is 80 psi. Again, I experience this only when the shock is in the lockout position (it may also be happening under normal use by the way). Does this usually mean the shock is defective?
Pos chamber is meant to let air into neg... And does so to fill and balance the neg. They have a bypass at about 25-30%sag point. That's why when filling u have to cycle the shock. Unless it's a dual air fork of course, where u fill pos and neg via separate valves.
@@rupedog I didn't provide more details into my issue and the reason why I posted the question, that was my mistake. I understand how a rear air shock with pos and neg chambers works, but my issue is that the main chamber is leaking air into the negative one way past the point of the manufacturers recommended maximum, which is 80. I have a shock that has a valve for both chambers, so both is meant to be pumped up. It's a DNM AOY-36RC.
@@TivonSanders If it has two valves it should not crossleak. Your best bet is to contact the manufacturer. But I can imagine it's just a bad design. Maybe even better bet: you can get cheap but reliable, and better designed shocks from x-fusion, sr suntour, etc, (or used from the big brands).
How are people running so much pressure in their shocks and forks? I weigh about 180 lbs and the recommended pressure for my Fox Float X is 189 psi at the highest. That's nowhere near the max PSI. The guy here weighed maybe 20 lbs more than I do. The fork is far less.
That usually doesn't hurt the shock. Some bike technicians say that doin that and pushing down (or the rear wheel up if in a stand) so that all of the travel is used is one method one can use to properly size a chain and make sure the derailleur isn't fully stretched out when and if the rear end bottoms out or gets near it.
#ASKGNBNTECH Good day here from Philippines long fan of the channel. just want to ask whats your comment on Dartmoor Hornet frame or dartmoor frames in general. im building my first Hardtail rig on A dartmoor hornet. also should i go all out on the specs my thought is i could upgrade to full sus in the future will the parts be compatible from my HT to Full sus. thankyou
Don't know the brand but the hornet looks like a good enough frame for your project. Don't cut the fork steerer tube to fit the HT, you might need it longer on a FS. Same for the cables and brake hoses keep some extra just in case you need more on a FS. The hornet has external cable routing if the FS does too swapping out will be simple enough to keep the HT frame for the rainy season. You have a plan so good luck
#askgmbn I have two bikes with different brand brakes on them - Shimano and SRAM. Both use mineral oil. Can I use the same bleeding kit for them or do I need to buy a separate one not to cross contaminate them with different brands of mineral oil? Oh and another one: where is Doddy?
The wider the rim the lower the pressure can be put without your tyre folding, soo yeah a wider rim will help getting more traction since you can lower the pressure more and vice versa
Numb hands? Are your arms 90° to your chest aka zombie position? Is your seat nose down? Does your seat have wide wings? Fix these first. Too long a stem is a massive pain, most people can actually accept a low stem, but if you're reaching up past 90° you're doomed
About that 9s shifter+cassette and 10s derrailleur - sorry Anna, but that's bs. Derailleur doesn't "assume" anything, its position is dictated by cable pull from the shifter and (properly adjusted) derailleur uses the entire cassette range, which is exactly the same width for 8s, 9s and 10s. The only thing is to make sure shifter and derailleur have the same cable pull ratio (safest bet - same make and generation). I'm running 8s shifters and cassette on 9s derailleur and I would never notice it if I hadn't have checked it in the derailleur spec
Exactly. I don't think she knows how derailleur works. You could even run 12 speed on a tourney using goatlinks. The only difference in derailleurs is the length of the cage for larger cogs.
Still wondering where Doddy is. Kind of weird that no one has said anything!
Who?
@@hierotochan Doddy.
Yeah, must be permanent since she hasn't mentioned him at all the past few vids.
@@hierotochan The male host that's usually with the female one we're watching.
He was in a video a week or so ago. He's probably dealing with personal issues with family or himself. I hope he's okay.
As you connect your shock pump to your shock or fork you will feel a point where it has sealed against the valve stem but not yet opened the valve. At this point pressurise the pump to your normal pressure and then proceed to screw the pump on further to open the valve. Equalising the pump before the valve is opened will give you a more accurate reading.It's a trick I've been using for years and gives you the most accurate reading possible.
Where is Doddy? Pay him more money and get him back in the videos! Everyone else is great but we need Doddy back!
Talking of rust removal i recently removed rust from some cheap chromed fork stanchions using some scrunched up aluminium foil. I was amazed at how well it worked. Also for light paint scratches you can put a bit of silicone oil / grease on a rag and polish it. Its amazing how well it can make them disappear.
#WhereisDoddy
#wheredouthink 🙄
For the heavy rider, If fox doesnt work...Try a rockshox equivalent for your shock. RS max pressure 320psi. RS forks take higher max air pressure, as well.
Thank you, that makes perfect sense. I was just having a mental struggle with this and then found your video and now I feel much better. Thank you so much
My shock pump will certainly drop pressure. If I don't unscrew the pump super fast, about 3-4 twists of the connector will leave the valve half-pushed, and air will rush out. My friends RockShox pump will not do the same thing, so I think it depends on the pump. I suspect the RockShox pump stays airtight to the threads long.
The instructions that came with my Rockshox pump said to put 5-10 psi more in than you want cos thats how much youll lose when you disconnect it.
Anna is right... RS prob say that due to the total myth u loose pressure on unscrewing.
Think about how many turns u have to do screwing it on before any pressure registers!
@@ibewillow RS talking utter bs... Never seen that anywhere... And the loss would be entirely dependent on the pressure also, not some arbitrary figure.
Easy to test that.
Just unscrew shock pump slowly until u just start to hear it hiss. And leave it at that position... It it is faulty and is letting pressure out the shock/fork (rather than just what's in the pump) it would obviously continue to hiss until ur shock was empty and it would sag right down. If it does, ur pump is faulty.
@@rupedog that is 100% what my shock pump will do. Not sure about my buddies RockShox pump but mine will drain the shock if I don't unscrew it fast.
In my own testing, when I overfill the shock by 10-15psi and then reconnect to test PSI while keeping the pump body collapsed (and not extended) the shock is at my preferred PSI. This indicates that I am indeed losing air in the shock when disconnecting the pump. It seems logical to me that while unscrewing the pump’s schrader connector, the schrader valve is releasing air, similar to when you might depress the schrader valve on a tube or presta tubeless valve. It’s irrelevant if the air is in your shock pump hose or pump body.
The issue is made worse if your pump’s schrader connector is short, round, and too tight to get good purchase with your fingers, as it’s more difficult to unscrew it quickly from the shock schrader valve to limit air loss. Rockshox have this problem more than Fox IMO, due to their valve placement on the shocks.
Another way to test is to try and place a gauge on the shock and even the most momentary movement of the air gauge on the shock’s valve will release air, with a substantial amount of PSI drop. It’s super annoying.
I’ve found that the fork has much less loss, simply because of the ability to unscrew the pump schrader connection quicker.
You are spot on! That is the correct answer not the one given in the vid.
There's a lot less pressure in the fork which means you loose less because of that fact.
I have tried a gauge (Topeak D2X) and I just instantly lost 30 psi while trying to connect it to a rear shock with 210psi in it. I tried more times but I just couldn't make a connection without lots of air just farting out in a jiffy. It's a bit weird when Topeak even have images of testing this gauge on shocks and forks. I did manage to get a connection on the fork though, but that's only 88psi so a lot less force on that schrader valve.
PS: If you suspect air loss just test sag with pump attached, and then *_without_* the pump attached. If the readings vary too much you got a drop in psi, if not things are golden.
For me organization of tools and spares is key to a good bike cave.
Same! All of my stuff is poorly organized, and it sucks. Something to work on. 😆
The 10 speed derailleur with a 9 speed cassette and shifter will work just fine, the shifter determines the setting/placement of the derailleur ???? . The only issue is the jockey wheels are slightly less wide.
I would totally agree with you, the shifter dictates the increments, derailleur will follow “orders”. Narrower jockey wheels should not be a problem, wider would. At any case replacing the jockey wheels is a cheap option.
I have never been afraid to play with my stem, actually. 😂😂
Basic rule of thumb. If your hands hurt raise your bars. If your feet/legs hurt drop the bar height. It's about evening out the body load front to rear.
1:50 so what Anna is trying to say is that if you increase volume, you decrease pressure
Yup, known as the ideal gas equation, Google it.
Well Anna Really mangled the derailleur question, the key bit is pull ratio and she never mentioned it, beginning to think this channel is beyond her knowledge.
She sure did. Deffo out of her depth with the more technical questions.
Not really... She used the word 'increments' instead of pull ratio to explain a accurate answer, because more people will likely to understand that, than pull ratios
@@rupedog pull ratio and increments are totally different, the rear mech has no increments it has a pull ratio, that’s it.
bit embarrassing isn't it? we have to understand that this show is infotainment, but unfortunately that will be missed by the less informed and lead them astray. this isn't the first or last time a simple concept any decent mechanic would know got butchered on this platform
Where is Doddy? Surely whoever manages their social media must see the requests for clarity on this? People love Doddy and have invested a lot of time into watching the channel.
They ain't gonna say, until its time to say... Clearly! Wheres Doddy has became the new 'First' 🙄
I never really got the “first” thing.
Interesting. I always thought Schrader valves hissing at disconnect was caused by air leaking from tires and/or forks (in this case). That it comes from pressure from air in the pump is new information to me. My main objection to Schrader over the years with tires (as opposed to Presta) was in this air loss while unscrewing the Schrader valve. This provides new perspective.
Small rust chips in paint...
If you don't want to sand the chip and make a bigger patch to repair.. don't just fill the rusty chip hole with the correct paint as the rust is already there... it will rust through the paint.
Go research a "Rust Converter". The idea of using a rust CONVERTER is that you don't remove the surface rust (if it's a thick/big patch you remove loose rust) but the converter actually changes the Ferris/ferric oxide into a different Non oxidising coating.. basically converting the rust into a protective non rusting coat.
(A lot of the ones I have used often turn purple/black on rust and remain the color of the product on clean metal.)
These products can often be applied with a cotton bud or toothpick and the paint goes straight on top once dry.
(I had one product that was white and appeared that the rust came through fairly quickly... but the actual product stained yellow where it was working (not the best choice but maybe the only choice they had in chemical reaction) but lasted years without any actual rust coming through the paint (and we didn't paint over it as it was the floor of a van).
Incredibly detailed and creative advices. Love this approach!
Shock Pump issue... Get a pump with the lever on the connector (Mine is a Giyo which is almost exactly the same as Rockshocx but has a tiny lever on the end of the hose).
You screw it on, flip the lever that pushes the valve pin and shows the pressure in the shock (and of course looses a little pressure as you just filled the hose from your shock).
Now you pump up the shock and the gauge on the pump is accurate.
then you release the lever and it closes the valve.. (loosing the tiniest bit of air in the cap of the connector only, and NONE (from the shock) when you unscrew it)
There is a pressure release button to lower the pressure if you over pump.. you can use that to release the pressure in the hose before removing if you want but with the lever released the shock valve is closed, nothing you do with the pump now will affect that correct pressure you put in...
But after all that, the correct pressure is only a guideline... sit on the bike and check the sag.. (and even sag is only suggested... ride and see what happens with your o-ring indicator and feel for how it rides at certain sag settings... Don't just settle for factory values... its your bike and your butt... set it to suit!
You can leave the pump connected while doing that and pump/release till you have it just right (take note of the sag position that worked best in your experiments and use that as your target, not the pressure (although once you know what that is you should get very close to your last sag level using the same pressure.
ergon ga3 for hand pain...switched to these a number of years ago because of some pain and haven't looked back
Where's Doddy
Doddy ???? it’s amazing the channel doesn’t make a statement at the very least whether he’s having personal time a holiday or will be back in a few weeks or not at all. He’s been posting quite regularly on Facebook might have to message him direct
I work on a shop and once in a while a lot of air escapes and we can’t get the right sag! Try multiple pumps and change valve even. 😢
DODDY!!!!
@gmbntech Bike fitting 101. We never touch the front of our bike until the back is sorted. A lot of times, pain or pressure in the hand is related to saddle position. Make sure that is perfect before you change stem length. While a dated method, KOPS will get you close.
And don't forget that the width of the bars, back/up sweep counts a lot too, not just the stem and the rise. It all depends on what kind of pain he has.
I haven't tried it, but road bikefitters say that rising the bar is actually causes more handpressure as you will hold your torso on it more, while lowering it makes your back to hold your torso. I guess this only applies to more aggressive positions, not the touring upright one, but we don't know his position (90mm stem from the factory sounds like an aggressieve xc bike, or a cheap touring one).
Great video 🤘
computer monitor to view youtube hints and tips in the cave while working, maybe with a not so sensitive keyboard and mouse so that you can use it even with dirty hands
Well explained 👍
Hi! Love you guys, Anna and Doddy! I have an #askgmbntech question. I have a 2022 Specialized Stumpjumper Alloy with RockShox 35 (140) up front and an X-Fusion rear (130) and given my weight and riding style I want to upgrade them. Geometry-wise, will going for a 160mm fork be too much? Is there like a ratio between front and rear travel I should follow?
I'm 1.84m tall and weight around 100kg, my bike is size S5 (XL). PS: already upgraded the transmission to a full XT system and GR2 brakes, suspension is now my main objective.
#AskGMBNTech
Hi there, I have a 2014 Specialized Demo and I was wondering what kind of chain guide goes with that frame (like ISCG 05 or any other kind) and if the BB affects anything on the guide. Thanks, love the show.
It’s gone downhill without Doddy
So so true Anna re pumps... Its a total myth (unless ur pump is faulty maybe). Simple to prove/test as well... Just unscrew shock pump slowly until u just start to hear it hiss. And leave it at that position... It it were letting pressure out the shock/fork (rather than just what's in the pump) it would obviously continue to hiss until ur shock was empty and it would sag right down.... But it won't... (assuming it's not faulty pump obvs).
You can also limit hiss time by adding an extra gasket into the pump head to retain pressure longer while you are unscrewing. By the time you are reaching the end of the thread, the valve head should be back in closed position, and the only hiss you get is the remaining air stuck inside the head.
#AskGMBNTech Hi, I bought a nice 2021 Mondraker Superfoxy bike. It has a standard SuperBoost Plus 157x12mm rear hub, with a 56.5mm chainline. When backpedaling on the two largest chainrings 42T and 50T, the chain fell off ... I replaced the front chainring to 32T oval with a real offset of 2mm (I always ride oval). The original Sram had a 3mm offset, so things got even worse. The chainline was 57.5mm and when backpedaling, you can guess what was going on. I decided to swap the dub bottom bracket spacers from the left 4.5mm to the right side, and right side 9mm to left. Currently the chainline is 53mm and it works great, and when pedaling backwards the chain doesn't fall off either, but it's now closer to the 52mm boost standard than the 56.5mm SuperBoost. Can this 53mm chainline cause problems with SuperBoost Plus hub?
Never knew most of these
#askgmbntech I have noticed across all gmbn channels an abundance of Orbeas, Nukeproofs, and Canyons. Does this have to do with sponsorships or just the preferences of gmbn staff/presenters?
What psi should I run with tubes in my 27.5 2.8 tires. I will go tubless eventually. #askgmbntech
320 PSI is a wholly new pressure to me.
Has anyone here with a full sus bike experienced their rear air shock's main chamber leak air into the negative chamber with the lockout (or in my case, "compression adjuster") engaged? The main chamber usually leaks psi to the negative one way past the negative's maximum stated by the manufacturer, which is 80 psi. Again, I experience this only when the shock is in the lockout position (it may also be happening under normal use by the way). Does this usually mean the shock is defective?
Pos chamber is meant to let air into neg... And does so to fill and balance the neg. They have a bypass at about 25-30%sag point. That's why when filling u have to cycle the shock.
Unless it's a dual air fork of course, where u fill pos and neg via separate valves.
@@rupedog I didn't provide more details into my issue and the reason why I posted the question, that was my mistake. I understand how a rear air shock with pos and neg chambers works, but my issue is that the main chamber is leaking air into the negative one way past the point of the manufacturers recommended maximum, which is 80. I have a shock that has a valve for both chambers, so both is meant to be pumped up. It's a DNM AOY-36RC.
@@TivonSanders
If it has two valves it should not crossleak. Your best bet is to contact the manufacturer. But I can imagine it's just a bad design.
Maybe even better bet: you can get cheap but reliable, and better designed shocks from x-fusion, sr suntour, etc, (or used from the big brands).
How are people running so much pressure in their shocks and forks? I weigh about 180 lbs and the recommended pressure for my Fox Float X is 189 psi at the highest. That's nowhere near the max PSI. The guy here weighed maybe 20 lbs more than I do. The fork is far less.
#askgmbn will deflating my rear suspension and seeing how my suspension works damage or hurt the rear shock?
That usually doesn't hurt the shock. Some bike technicians say that doin that and pushing down (or the rear wheel up if in a stand) so that all of the travel is used is one method one can use to properly size a chain and make sure the derailleur isn't fully stretched out when and if the rear end bottoms out or gets near it.
No
#ASKGNBNTECH Good day here from Philippines long fan of the channel. just want to ask whats your comment on Dartmoor Hornet frame or dartmoor frames in general. im building my first Hardtail rig on A dartmoor hornet. also should i go all out on the specs my thought is i could upgrade to full sus in the future will the parts be compatible from my HT to Full sus. thankyou
Don't know the brand but the hornet looks like a good enough frame for your project. Don't cut the fork steerer tube to fit the HT, you might need it longer on a FS. Same for the cables and brake hoses keep some extra just in case you need more on a FS. The hornet has external cable routing if the FS does too swapping out will be simple enough to keep the HT frame for the rainy season. You have a plan so good luck
#askgmbn I have two bikes with different brand brakes on them - Shimano and SRAM. Both use mineral oil. Can I use the same bleeding kit for them or do I need to buy a separate one not to cross contaminate them with different brands of mineral oil? Oh and another one: where is Doddy?
Make sure you throughly clean it with brake cleaner after each use and you will be fine
Regarding cramped hands, I find that seat angle might be a major contributor.
#askgmbntech Does rim width matter? I have a bit smaller rim for my tire and I’m worried that I get less grip while riding.
The wider the rim the lower the pressure can be put without your tyre folding, soo yeah a wider rim will help getting more traction since you can lower the pressure more and vice versa
@@dunigan3320 Thank you! I will make sure to buy some new rims.
our man with the hand pain might will be diabetic go see a doctor not bike rider, stroke mechanic
Numb hands? Are your arms 90° to your chest aka zombie position? Is your seat nose down? Does your seat have wide wings? Fix these first.
Too long a stem is a massive pain, most people can actually accept a low stem, but if you're reaching up past 90° you're doomed
Where is Doddy??? That's my @askgmbntech question of the week