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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2021
- Tips and tricks of installing adjustable metal link rods used in WPL, MN, JJRC and Fayee
Liks:
Link Rods
shopee.ph/product/381775630/5...
Shock
shopee.ph/product/110874708/6...
Axle Truss/ Pull Rod Base with Servo mount
shopee.ph/product/60629225/66...
WPL C14/24 Frame
shopee.ph/product/135509862/5... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thank you so much! I was getting tired of people half showing you, then PRESTO theirs is done with very little explanation. Youre the best!
Thanks bro
This type of video is what every rc hobbyists need
Thank you, bro
Thank you for this two years later!!!
Welcome bro, thank you also
I followed the lengths that you suggested but the metal driveshaft is too tight between the axles and motor. Any suggestions on the adjustments to the link lengths?
nice. thank you for sharing this.
Thank you also, bro
Very nice sir, you did a detailed & simple video for RC beginners.
Thank you sir
nice
Great vid on this!
Thank you sir Farley
Nice!!! Very helpful.
Thabk you, bro
informative video, bro! your videos really are helpful to a lot of people. keep it up and stay safe, bro! 👍🏻🍻😎
Thank you bro stay safe also...
Nice video bro 💪
Salamat, bro
Too good thank you.
Thanks bro
Thanks for the video. You clarified a couple of things I needed to know. Unfortunately for me, I just got the shock set, but kept the plastic rods and trusses(?)... the steering didnt like it lol. The bottom part of the shocks are too far out and block the steering knuckles :(
Welcome sir. I think those metal(aluminum) shocks that looks like the stock is best to use to keep the dimensions the same as stock setup. To avoid the shocks from hitting the knuckles or tires when steering.
The issue in my case was that the original shocks have something like a cup at the bottom, but these ones dont. Well... I guess I will have to get the other parts
@sgecko7 Hi there, did you solve the issue ? i mean can we replace the shock and keep the plastic rod.
@@opunbuds I havent done anything yet. The stock rods dont seem to be the issue though. The problem is the part of the truss where the rod and the bottom part of the shock meet. The bottom of the stock shock is a cup and covers that part, so there is no change in size. The upgrade shock has something like a spacer and sits on top of that part, making it way wider. I would have to either purchase all of the other upgrades or cut that part off the stock truss... y'know what... F it... gonna check the length of the screws and cut it lol
I like vidieos👌
Thanks bro
Well done. I just went through this a few times with mine and my son's trucks. I wish I had seen this first and had taken this approach. I would use a thread locker like loctite instead of glue.
The aftermarket links that I bought are pretty loose and sloppy on the ball ends. Any suggestions for that?
Are those doesn't have nuts on both ends?
Nice video !, any tips for extending wheelbase ?
Aftermarket link rods are short, maybe find a longer one or use a shock extender for link rods mount.
Link for wheel set?
Thanks! Building mine metal right now. 200 likes!
Thanks you also, bro. Good luck to your build.
Hi how do you assemble these link rods with the 2 speed motor? Do the link rods get in the way of the gear change servo?
As of now my 2speed gearbox is fix into low gear, I did not install the micro servo or tje gear changer. Now I am going to assemble c34 with res v3 and 2speed gearbox. Maybe I will bend the link rods or put it outside the metal chassis. Will update you if its done.
@@morrisrc awesome. Thanks !
Welcome sir
@@morrisrc Awesome. Thank you!
@@morrisrc I tried bending my hex ones and ended up with more link rods than I started with :(. Hoping that the plain ones like yours will be easier to bend.
You can probably just about get away with mounting both the long and short rods off the single lowest mount hole if you've got a long enough bolt + nut for the rear ones. They'll just about clear the gear change assy. assuming you've trimmed off the excess from the shaft at the back. The axle's angle will then vary as the suspension travels but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Seems to flex as normal.
The tires rub on the links
Hey I followed this but for some reason when I turn one way it rubs and won’t let it turn all the way. Is there something I could do?
The thread of both end are in diffetent direction.
Is the front shorter then the back mine looks a bit smaller
Can you put metal links and shocks on stock plastic axels?
Yea bro
@@morrisrc thanks for the reply and sharing your knowledge with us 🙏
Welcome bro. By the way, did you mean the axle or the plastic axle truss or pull rod base seat. If the axle truss you just need a little mod.
Pwede ba sa stock axle to ng wpl C24 sir? May naorder kasi akong adjustable eh kaso nung kinabit ko nagkakaissue sa alignment.
Yes bro pwede stock axle basta ung axle truss ay metal.
may link ka sir ng metal bracket na nagcoconect ng toe link at suspension sa differential? wala kasi akong mahanap sa shopee.
Bro, message moko sa messenger Morris Horfilla.
@@morrisrc ok na pala sir nahanap ko sa isang sa link mo sa sunnystore na shop, salamat
The four link same size
Yes sir, the 4 short links are the same length and also the 4 long links are the same in length.
@@morrisrc entiendo 4 cortos de un mismo tamaño y 4 largos . Gracias.
What is the normal wheel base for c-series?
Bro, for the C14, C24 and C54 it's 190mm. C34 205mm and C44 215mm.
@@morrisrc in inches?
C14, 24 and 54 = 7.5", C34 = 8" and C44 = 8.5"
@@morrisrc some says it’s 7.2-7.4 inches
Yeah 7.48" I just round it off to 7.5" hehehehe!
Good day my friend is your last name, Morris
No, my first is Ben Morris and my lastname is Horfilla. Add me at FB Ben Morris Horfilla 🙂