I didnt want to remove my old gutter but was adding a simple semi stand alone lean to/patio cover/whatever you want to call it. I used that flashing maybe 4x6 or 7. I was able to slip it up into the drip edge then siliconed it. It went behind the gutter and extended just beyond the gutter underneatn. Idea being that any leaks will leak onto that flashing and down onto the roof. The roof fits right under that and add the foam with sealant and bend the flashing down held with a few screws covered with a caulking/silicone. To test I used a garden hose to flood the roof and watch the drip and drain. Worked surprisingly well.
My barn has corrugated siding and I’m adding a little roofed pen next to it - now would I do the end wall flashing on an existing corrugated siding? I can’t put it over the flashing like shown here.
How do you seal and addition roof to an existing vertical wall? Adding an extension shed to the side of a steel building. Is there a transition that keeps rain from running between old building amd new roof or does the old wall need to be cut horisontally to slip a roof transition under the steel sheet maintaining the waterfall steps?
Maybe I'm not thinking about this right. Water will come down the siding, onto the flashing, then when it runs off the edge of the flashing, it will want to travel back toward the end wall because of surface tension. So you install the foam closure strips and sealant to break the surface tension, and allow it to travel down the roof. Right? But what happens when the sealant inevitably fails? Or what if water gets behind the end wall siding-how can the water out if it is trapped behind the foam closure and sealant? Does the underlying wall and roof assembly have any other WRB? Wouldn't it be better to create a kickout lip on the flashing that acts as a surface tension break, but doesn't limit drying potential at the protrusion?
Metal roofer here - it is almost always a terrible idea to obstruct the pans of the sheets in any area, including underneath the apron flashing. As you specified, good practice is to have an anti-capillary lip or feather fold of about 10mm along the transverse edge of the flashing at about 135° down. With regards to the infill strips, the better solution is to grab a set of pliers and turn the pan up at the top of the sheeting, creating a dam, or stop-end. 😃
And the water still penetrates from the vertical wall, even with sealant on stucco…….we had to add a second overlapping flashing on the Stucco flashing……
@@TarzanArmani007I’m doing that to mine at the moment. When the guy that did it there was some concrete that fell out so there’s little holes inside the metal frame flasher would it affect it? He said you don’t need to fill it cause the metal will keep the rain out.
@@frankryan2505 Meh, yeah, it can be okay if not exposed to UV and under compression. It's still an inferior product in just about everyway as it's an all around good caulking but doesn't excel in anything. It is always nice when someone use silicone and I'm tearing their crap down though. Much easier to rip apart
@@jonny-b4954 jonny, they didnt do it right if you can yank ti out. they neeeded a backer rod or similar OR they didnt prep (dirty for example) or they simply put too much in
@@CT_Taylor Nah, that's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about when removing screen room framing, windows, siding etc. that's been caulked against a wall, mostly for aesthetics. The silicone is super easy to score with a knife and then rip the 2 things apart. Not to actually pull silicone off. Though even properly installed silicone can quite easily be pulled off like you're talking. It doesn't bond very well, unless it's an adhesive silicone, of course. That bonds a little better. Try scoring a urethane caulking though. It turns hard over time. Cracks. That is of course the downfall of non-silicone caulkings.
I didnt want to remove my old gutter but was adding a simple semi stand alone lean to/patio cover/whatever you want to call it. I used that flashing maybe 4x6 or 7. I was able to slip it up into the drip edge then siliconed it. It went behind the gutter and extended just beyond the gutter underneatn. Idea being that any leaks will leak onto that flashing and down onto the roof. The roof fits right under that and add the foam with sealant and bend the flashing down held with a few screws covered with a caulking/silicone. To test I used a garden hose to flood the roof and watch the drip and drain. Worked surprisingly well.
I need a vid about the transition from shingle to corrugated metal
YES!!!
My barn has corrugated siding and I’m adding a little roofed pen next to it - now would I do the end wall flashing on an existing corrugated siding? I can’t put it over the flashing like shown here.
Have you got a video how to do a slip joint for this same roof flashing where the length is longer and requires that slip expansion joint ?
Are you screwing down right through the foam strip?
How do you seal and addition roof to an existing vertical wall? Adding an extension shed to the side of a steel building. Is there a transition that keeps rain from running between old building amd new roof or does the old wall need to be cut horisontally to slip a roof transition under the steel sheet maintaining the waterfall steps?
also curious how this would be done
Maybe I'm not thinking about this right. Water will come down the siding, onto the flashing, then when it runs off the edge of the flashing, it will want to travel back toward the end wall because of surface tension. So you install the foam closure strips and sealant to break the surface tension, and allow it to travel down the roof. Right? But what happens when the sealant inevitably fails? Or what if water gets behind the end wall siding-how can the water out if it is trapped behind the foam closure and sealant? Does the underlying wall and roof assembly have any other WRB?
Wouldn't it be better to create a kickout lip on the flashing that acts as a surface tension break, but doesn't limit drying potential at the protrusion?
Metal roofer here - it is almost always a terrible idea to obstruct the pans of the sheets in any area, including underneath the apron flashing.
As you specified, good practice is to have an anti-capillary lip or feather fold of about 10mm along the transverse edge of the flashing at about 135° down.
With regards to the infill strips, the better solution is to grab a set of pliers and turn the pan up at the top of the sheeting, creating a dam, or stop-end. 😃
So what about water getting behind end panel and wall?
How's that sealed?
There is cladding over the top?
Near the end of the video they reference installing a Reglet, and they have a video covering that. Hopefully that's what you need. Cheers good luck
What if your siding is vinyl siding?
What is the name of this glue?
And the water still penetrates from the vertical wall, even with sealant on stucco…….we had to add a second overlapping flashing on the Stucco flashing……
Where do I get that double sided butyl tape and what width?
Here is the size, Tape, 3/32"X3/8"X45' Roll. This can be purchased at any roofing supply store such as ABC Roofing Supply.
How can I seal it to a flat concrete end wall that will have no additional overlay (siding material)?
You cant. Thats not a impermeable wall
Grind a 1/2" groove second, first, hire a professional
@@TarzanArmani007I’m doing that to mine at the moment. When the guy that did it there was some concrete that fell out so there’s little holes inside the metal frame flasher would it affect it? He said you don’t need to fill it cause the metal will keep the rain out.
I can't figure out why you didn't run that was flashing up under the lap siding 🤦
I hate flashing that don’t have the scribing lip. It looks so much better.
Dont forget how to cut and use your snips 😉
1:04
Well you dont want to use silicone sealant. Never use actual silicone om anything exterior. Use a good sealant and adhesive.
Silicone is good ifnits covered and under compression, won't be exposed to UV..we mechanically seal these in my part of the world.
@@frankryan2505 Meh, yeah, it can be okay if not exposed to UV and under compression. It's still an inferior product in just about everyway as it's an all around good caulking but doesn't excel in anything. It is always nice when someone use silicone and I'm tearing their crap down though. Much easier to rip apart
@@jonny-b4954 jonny, they didnt do it right if you can yank ti out. they neeeded a backer rod or similar OR they didnt prep (dirty for example) or they simply put too much in
Honestly, they should be using a urethane of some kind in my opinion
@@CT_Taylor Nah, that's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about when removing screen room framing, windows, siding etc. that's been caulked against a wall, mostly for aesthetics. The silicone is super easy to score with a knife and then rip the 2 things apart. Not to actually pull silicone off. Though even properly installed silicone can quite easily be pulled off like you're talking. It doesn't bond very well, unless it's an adhesive silicone, of course. That bonds a little better. Try scoring a urethane caulking though. It turns hard over time. Cracks. That is of course the downfall of non-silicone caulkings.
too much too loud music
get over it