1973 Triumph TR6 Restoration - part 28 - more wiring and cables
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- I was able to run all the cables and did some more wiring - reverse lights, oil pressure switch, fuel level sender unit, and heater blower. I ran into a problem with the center plinth of the dash though. But still a good progress.
I could not have done my restoration without the hours of time spent watching and rewatching your videos. Can’t thank you enough.
I have to thank you so much for this video. I was really struggling with my wiring diagram. This video was exactly what I needed. Thank you!!
Steady progress.......It is fun to watch this car grow and become more beautifull
This is awesome help Elin. You talk through your work and that makes it easy for me to learn. Thanks for sharing this with us.
My pleasure, Stevie! I hope to see your TR6 videos soon!
Elin Yakov I am getting the engine bay ready for paint now. 'Sand a little' put bandaid on finger, sand some more and add another bandaid. Sheesh!
Another great video. Can’t wait for the next one. Thank you.
Looking good Elin. Re Oil Pressure light, when ignition is turned on, it does a crude bulb test in series with the Brake bulb so only half the volts, hence its dim. Oil pressure failure will give full brightness as well as Brake failure.
Nope. I don't think so. The oil pressure bulb is always in series with the brake light bulb. When the ignition is on, but the engine is not running the oil pressure is low and that is why the light is on. This is used also as crude bulb test, but there is absolutely no difference between this situation and the situation when the engine is running and for some reason the oil pressure is low. I guess the solution to that would be to use a 6v bulb to compensate for the increased resistance due to the 2 bulbs being in series.
Yes my bad Elin, I was thinking about the Brake light. You can feed 12V to both Oil and Brake then insert a diode after the Brake to the Oil Pressure switch. That will give full brightness to both bulbs at lamp test......and Low Oil. 🙄
Good morning my brother
Re: the light switch not making sense in being pressed down for 'on' - you have to know that in the UK all light switches are installed so that flicking them down is for on, and up is for off (assuming they are not two-way switches as on a staircase). In north America they are installed the other way up - when you go home look at the light switches in your apartment - up is on and down is off. Took me a while to get used to this when I moved from the UK to Canada, and now I'm lost when I go back to the UK for a visit!
It is funny I've been so many times in the UK and I never noticed that.
Lesson learned today:
You should restore 2 TR6's at the same time because once you have figured it out on the first one, the second will take no time at all.
Honestly, it is so true.... You can also borrow parts from one for the other and make a list with parts you need to order without being delayed. LOL
Hey Elin, are you going to make a fan shroud for the radiator??, should be fairly simple to make with plastic? personally id make one using just plastic and rivets to hold it together haha
Regarding the dim bulb- you mentioned that it is in series with that other bulb (brake light?)- if so, i'd expect it to be dimmer because of that.. If the other bulb is off, the oil light would get brighter. Could just be a dumb design.
Yes, it is a dumb design :)
I think you have the oil light bulb and that brake light bulb (on the dashboard) wired in series which is why the dash brake light goes out when you remove the oil pressure light. If the bulbs are wired in series then they will only glow dimly. The two bulbs need to be wired in parallel then they will be bright and when you remove one bulb the other will keep on glowing.. It looks like someone has messed around with the wiring in the past. Is the dashboard brake lamp wired correctly I wonder. Maybe someone has tried to make the oil pressure light also operate the dashboard brake light and messed up the wiring by wiring the two bulbs in series .
Hi MArk. No it is a new harness and the bulbs were wired in series from the factory. This is so you can use the oil pressure switch for the initial dash bulb test when you turn the ignition on. This way both the oil and brake lights are grounded through the oil pressure switch and come on when the oil pressure is low. Once you start the engine they come off. The brake light has a separate ground through the PDWA in case of break failure. It is weird, but this is how it was designed
Hi Elin, Yes you are correct. I found this description that accurately describes how this strange circuit works.
Dan Master's says The oil pressure switch is wired such that low oil pressure will light both
the oil warning lamp and the brake warning lamp. Both lamps are wired in
series with the oil pressure switch, so they both glow at half brilliance when
the oil pressure is low. When the brake warning switch is actuated, only the
brake warning light is lit, and it is lit at full brilliance, as it not in
series with the other lamp at this time (the brake warning switch bypasses the
oil light).
As silly as this sounds, there is a good reason for it. Hopefully, you will
never see the brake warning switch operate, but the low oil pressure switch
operates every time you turn the key on until the engine is up to speed. By
wiring the lights in series, the driver has the opportunity to check both
bulbs for operability every time he turns on the key. You should be in the
habit of looking to see if both lights come on - otherwise, the bulbs could
fail and you would never know it. If the bulbs should fail and you get a real
brake warning or low oil pressure, you would not get the indication and a lot
of damage could be done.
www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?17,1058556
Glasses again...;)
Yeah. Once you put them on they become part of your face LOL