I am a pretty much self taught and very mature machinist. I really enjoyed watching this as I learned several things and got to see the basic movements around the equipment. For me this was a great video!
Good job on the dies. Bought the same HF tube roller, tried to use it once and its sitting in the back room collecting dust. Built my own ring/tube roller with a 3ton hydraulic jack and both bottom 1 inch shafts driven by chain. Worked so well I'm building a bigger one with a 20 ton jack, 4140 shafts, 2 1/2" bottom, and 3" top, and a hydraulic motor to drive it. I enjoyed your video.
You do a real nice job in explaining your procedures, as well as the processes of whats happening to the metal during chip formation. You share a lot of wealth of information to learn from. Great job on your narration. Beautiful workmanship on all your projects.
I live in remote southern Colorado. No machine shop suppliers anywhere close. We are going to Phoenix for Christmas, family, friends, etc. I plan on going by the Metal Supermarket to get some metal. Hope they have what I need. Oh, nice video.
I work with a lot of different materials and your explanation of the metal reactions to being worked are really great. Much appreciated. I own a tag micro laithe very nice machines and can be upgraded immensely for lab work. I'm comforted that I am not the only one that rechecks then rechecks then recheck their measures once again. Most stuff I do on that little things is on the fly for quick fixes.... wish I had a real tool I could actually place a beer on Hah! Thanks for taking the time to post!
I bought one of those Harbor Freight rollers and made a set of dies to straighten a bent sailboat mast. (hollow aluminum) The curve of the sides of the mast wasn't an arc, but rather a funky parabolic thing, but I got 'er done and it worked great. Nice video! :D
I will. Currently on my list are a stand for a milling machine I will be buying, with wheels, a bread roller, a pipe anvil, a diamond sharpener for brazed carbide tools ....
Great job Dale. Hope the grinder proves usefull. Three relays and a hydraulic solenoid and my big Kalamazoo saw functions as intended thanks Carl Garrett. I have to build a rail bender for two 15" gauge railroads being built here in Texas. Just have to make it strong enough to bend 20lb rail.
Thank you for all the great info on your videos. I had to bend flat stock "the hard way" as well. Ended up buying a die and making pretty good bends on my hossfeld.
At the last bit you mentioned the machine flexing because the metal is being worked off-center. I'm actually about to make dies for a roller bender I built and wanted to be able to work multiple profiles on a single die. This is what I'm doing... Make a die wider than you actually need. Cut a few contours much like you intend on doing but separate them into a number of separate dies that are equal in overall width. You can them sandwich them together and simply switch out the center one with an end one. E.g: if you need a 3" wide die and five different contours, you have two 1" wide "shoulder" dies that are the full diameter and one 1" "center" die with your contour cut into it. You just cut multiple center dies that you can switch out and each die only consists of 1" of material rather than 3" of material. I hope this made sense as it's certainly difficult to explain in a simple TH-cam comment.
I work in a Machine/Fab Shop for a living and we have to do modifications like this all the time. Many times we don't know exactly how we are going to do the job we just know that we have to do the job..lol Usually learn something at the end .=-) Great Vid!
Hello there DALE from deep down under across the Pond. Been watching most of Your videos. There's always something there to learn from, even at our age, we never stop. Thanks for showing and sharing. Like some of the other Guys have mentioned, we really think the disturbing music is a terrible distraction as we need to concentrate and listen to U without any other noises. And besides, music is indeed all a matter of individual taste without U really knowing what all the world out there prefers. Just my two cents worth. ATB aRM
The video is cool. Like your transitions when processing. Tip: when crushing a shattered bearing out of the outer race, a small groove should be made to engage the knockout.
Great job with the video. I had just purchased one these HF rollers. I have the twisting problem also. I suspect the holes for the shafts are not exactly parallel with each other. Also I suspect I need to shim the sides till the rollers are in exact alignment. However I am not in a production situation so I can take some time to out the twist. Thanks again for your excellent work making the videos...
Nice project. I've made some of my own dues for a similar roller, when bending like you're doing lubrication is important. It helps keep the mushroomed edge of the flat stock from binding. Personally I've had good luck with WD40. Also the bearings take a beating, I drilled my benders shafts by drilling them and adding grease fittings and replaced the bearings with quality shielded ones and removed one side shield. Installed with the open side towards the grease I haven't had to replace them. Originally I was buying the bearings ten at a time. Just my experience, I know there's a hundred ways to do things. If you check the Swag Off Road website it'll give you a lot of ideas what that roller is capable of.
Great video - a couple of ideas I thought of (I'm only starting out so these may be wildly out!). Could you taper the grooves ever so slightly so they are wider nearer to the outer edge. this would compress the excess metal but may cause too much strain on those thin side plates. The other idea I had was to make thicker side plates or strengthen the ones you have to prevent distortion. I am in the process of designing my own but will be using at least 10mm side plates which i hope to get laser cut locally. the rest i will machine. I have the same lathe as you (Different company but obviously from the same factory!) and I have the same issue - I thought it was me at first! I will be taking the apron apart this winter and scraping or lapping all the ways in. I have done this on a smaller lathe and it transformed it. More accurate, less chatter etc. Great video - keep em coming!
Nice video, thanks for posting! I have looked carefully into parting tool chatter on my light duty lathe, and I have a couple of recommendations: 1) Make the tailstock stickout as short as possible. 2) Put a machinist jack under the parting tool so most of the cutting force will go straight to the cross slide, and bypass the relatively flimsy foot of the compound slide. 2a) If you'd rather not use a machinist jack, at least position the compound slide so the tool bit is as close to the center of the compound foot as possible. I have a Grizzly G0602 lathe, and the compound collar is very weak where it is relieved to reveal the protractor. By simply turning the collar around (and obscuring the protractor) the stiffness is vastly improved and the lathe is much more useful.
Good information. Maybe try cutting your single rollers into multiple disks for the different sizes, then they could be placed on the axles centre line to the roller frame and eliminate the twisting.
I liked the fast pace of this video. Such videos should tell a story which does not require to document each and every step and in full length. Thanks.
I just finished modifying a hf ring roller to a hydraulic motor. I re machined the hf dies for 1x2 rect tube. I have vids on my channel. Nice job with the chromoly.
Hey Dale, you are wrong on the internet. Let me fix that for you. It is true that drills typically are softer at the shank end, however hardness and stiffness in steel is hardly correlated at all. Hardness only affects how easy it is to dent the surface of a material. The stiffness of hardened steel and mild steel is practically the same. If anything the mild steel will be slightly stiffer. If the hardness of the material was to come in to play then there would have to be dent's left by the drill chuck on the shank of the drill. The reason you want to use a center drill to start the hole is because it is short and stubby. Take a long rod of material and fasten it to something solid so that only a short length is hanging out. Now try to deflect it. Repeat the experiment but now with a long stick out. You will find that the deflection with the long stick out is way bigger, I'm talking hundreds of times bigger. Keep up the good work!
Hardening steel does *not* appreciably change its modulus of elasticity. It's a very popular misconception. It does raise the stress it can be subjected to before it becomes permanently bent, but that's not what is being discussed (in relation to twist drills vs centre drills) at about the 4 min mark. Centre drills are stiffer because they're short and stocky, not because they're thru-hardened.
Great idea. I had thought of building something like this, but I had not thought about using one of those rollers from Harbor freight, that would really cut down on the build time. I've watched a couple of your videos now and I am adding you to the playlist so to speak. Havn't turned a tv on in a couple years, much better programming on here than the trash on tv....
seen another guy use a dailindicator for measuring the dept if a cut , he used a dail indicator with a magnet (gleud?) on the back he stuck the indicator with the magnet to the bed and dailed off the cariage , its a lot faster to set up compared to using the dail indicator on a arm after youre done stick the dail indicator out of the way like a fridge magnet
if you used some think like a transmission jack on the large wheel side it would help the jig from twisting or cobble together a bottom screw on the bender, like the top one so you have a complete bracket supporting the drive wheel from the top and bottom.
You pointed out some great tips at the beginning. Thanks so much for that. I always wondered how to make a bend metal like that. Can you turn down the music a bit? I like it but a bit to loud. Great new stile video. Keep it up.
What is that self driving dog called? Never seen one. Cool project. I use bent strips like that to make bucks for metal shaping. I made similar dies for my bead roller but the machine couldn't take the forces. This might be the ticket.
man! you have one of the toughest crowds to please i have ever seen on youtube! it seems people always have something negative to say to contradict their "complement." shame, really... i loved the video however. great work as always
Couldn't have said it better. We get a pretty tough crowd over on our channel too, to the point that it can be off-putting. I don't think many people mean harm, more that thing about how if you ask three machinists for an opinion you'll get four answers.
Yeah, I noticed that too. I started a Build thread way back when I rebuild my engine of my Honda S2000, using an Accord Crankshaft and turning a 2.0 Liter into a 2.4Liter. I was working at a Machine Shop and we did all our machining in-house and completely different than any other people have ever approached it. Most guys where dropping $3000 in custom machine work plus another $2k in parts. With the free labor I did everything for $1100 and got nothing but hate, so I deleted 4 mos. worth of documented build thread and said fuck em! Like Rodney Dangerfield, Got No Respect!
hey Dale, that gadget is where your anchor lube would really shine. a light application to the sides of the bar being bent should make it run through the dies a little easier sine the metal is being forced against the side walls of the dies. personally i don't like the anchor lube in cutting applications because it prevents adequate chip evacuation and recirculates the chips too much. on the lathe i use at work the coolant system is great because it flushes out the chips when doing a deep groove like you did for the dies with the cutoff tool. also at this juncture i have to side with some of the critics that the background music was a little overwhelming. excellent narration throughout though! some of the youtubers would do well to follow that lead.
Just spitballin here, hows about if ya wuz to make those rollers in interchangeable sections, say 3 sections per roller, each section with a different size groove. Ya jus put the one you wants in the center and an give er! Now yous gots a multi use tool withouts the twisting ??? You could make roller sections for all kinda profiles and use a little less material while youre at it.
Or... if you don't have a lathe, just call up Troy at Off Road Swag. He's got all the dies for the HF roller, including the "hard way" roller dies. I've got about 10 die sets from him. I'll probably upgrade to his ring roller, as the HF ring roller side plates are super soft metal, and worbble out the holes so it's no longer square.
I noticed you long feeding by hand when roughing out the roller blank. Every cut following was by auto feed. What's the reason behind this? Great video. I don't need music to keep me interested. I like the sped up parts to keep the time from drawing out too long.
I know this is older but whenever you use a smaller boring bar get a old bicycle innertube cut it into inch wide and 1/2" strips and tightly wrap the end of your boring bar and secure with some rubber bands and it will greatly reduce your vibration and chatter 👍👍👍
Nice job. It would be interesting to try centering the slot on the HF roller rather than working at the edge... (?) or adding a HDPE spacer between the drive roller and the frame maybe? As to the harmonic issue: Sometimes adding mass to the lathe / tool post can significantly dampen the vibration / noise. I have seen / tried several things like blocks of lead, heavy magnets and even sand bags. Yes: it increases the hazard of something getting in the way or caught but it is effective. Vibration in a grooving tool extended way out like that can also be mitigated by sistering it as far as possible, "leading" the bottom edge (with Pb or HDPE), and even by placing a small machinist clamp on the underside (clearance provided of course). For one-off pieces the tiny clamp (or two) is the least effort - second of course to ear plugs and muffs over them. The viscosity of the lube/cutting fluid and/or chemical composition can make a big difference as well but you may have to trade off for smoke and fumes accordingly. Finding the perfect speed/cutting angle/rotation can be frustrating though. Thanks for enduring it to share your idea.
Figured you had a reason. Thanks for the follow-up. Spent some time on the lathe today and thought of you. Turning some 2" round stock down to make shafts. Part was singing no matter what speed I cut at . So I wrapped it in painters tape and it worked. Cut the noise and reduced chatter too. (she's seen some miles). Plus I could make notes on the tape to keep track of my cuts and dial readings whenever I got interrupted. It was worth it for that alone. Anyway... Thanks again.
I am a fairly experienced metal worker and your videos are packed with little tips and comments which are helpful to expand my knowledge.
I am a pretty much self taught and very mature machinist.
I really enjoyed watching this as I learned several things and got to see the basic movements around the equipment. For me this was a great video!
Thanks for the editing, keeping the length of the video easy to watch, always enjoy your videos!
Dale, thank you for taking the time to show how you solved this problem. I really enjoyed your video.
thanks Walter :-)
Good job on the dies. Bought the same HF tube roller, tried to use it once and its sitting in the back room collecting dust. Built my own ring/tube roller with a 3ton hydraulic jack and both bottom 1 inch shafts driven by chain. Worked so well I'm building a bigger one with a 20 ton jack, 4140 shafts, 2 1/2" bottom, and 3" top, and a hydraulic motor to drive it. I enjoyed your video.
I must post to say thanks a million for sharing you time, knowledge and kindness.. You present things your way - nothing wrong with it.. Period !!
Loved the bends on flat stock your equipment and design are very cool
You do a real nice job in explaining your procedures, as well as the processes of whats happening to the metal during chip formation. You share a lot of wealth of information to learn from. Great job on your narration. Beautiful workmanship on all your projects.
Love your machining ability. You explain things so we novices can understand, thanks so much, Joaquin (watchmaker)
I just love your videos and your basic simple style of teaching. This is going to get expensive for me.
SWEET VIDEO,I love the details and quality of workmanship
I live in remote southern Colorado. No machine shop suppliers anywhere close. We are going to Phoenix for Christmas, family, friends, etc. I plan on going by the Metal Supermarket to get some metal. Hope they have what I need. Oh, nice video.
Like always Dale, another great video.... Thanks for sharing.
:-)
I work with a lot of different materials and your explanation of the metal reactions to being worked are really great. Much appreciated. I own a tag micro laithe very nice machines and can be upgraded immensely for lab work.
I'm comforted that I am not the only one that rechecks then rechecks then recheck their measures once again. Most stuff I do on that little things is on the fly for quick fixes.... wish I had a real tool I could actually place a beer on Hah!
Thanks for taking the time to post!
I bought one of those Harbor Freight rollers and made a set of dies to straighten a bent sailboat mast. (hollow aluminum) The curve of the sides of the mast wasn't an arc, but rather a funky parabolic thing, but I got 'er done and it worked great. Nice video! :D
That was a really good outcome. It's so cool you can make your own tools, and dies. Thanks for showing us some tips.
Your Show is Awesome, short and sweet Custom pieces!!! I’m a Subscriber for Life
I have just started watching your videos, and I like them and the format is easier and straightforward. Thank you and thumbs up!!
Thanks for the fast-forward! I wish some of the other TH-cam machinists would do it!
Thanks For your comment Andrew :-)
I will. Currently on my list are a stand for a milling machine I will be buying, with wheels, a bread roller, a pipe anvil, a diamond sharpener for brazed carbide tools ....
that's really neat Dale Thanks for showing
Great job Dale. Hope the grinder proves usefull. Three relays and a hydraulic solenoid and my big Kalamazoo saw functions as intended thanks Carl Garrett. I have to build a rail bender for two 15" gauge railroads being built here in Texas. Just have to make it strong enough to bend 20lb rail.
So glade to here you got your saw running :-)
Excellent as always, Dale. I had no idea you could bend a flat bar edgewise. Fascinating.
Bill
SEMO Bill that's why they call it bending it the hard way!
Thank you for all the great info on your videos. I had to bend flat stock "the hard way" as well. Ended up buying a die and making pretty good bends on my hossfeld.
I have been looking for a Hossfeld. They are hard to find
I need to make that same part for my ring roller, Nice work and thanks for posting.
Watched this video earlier, as always Dale, very good, and informative.. Thank you for sharing....
Nice project, nice resulting radius piece.
At the last bit you mentioned the machine flexing because the metal is being worked off-center. I'm actually about to make dies for a roller bender I built and wanted to be able to work multiple profiles on a single die. This is what I'm doing... Make a die wider than you actually need. Cut a few contours much like you intend on doing but separate them into a number of separate dies that are equal in overall width. You can them sandwich them together and simply switch out the center one with an end one. E.g: if you need a 3" wide die and five different contours, you have two 1" wide "shoulder" dies that are the full diameter and one 1" "center" die with your contour cut into it. You just cut multiple center dies that you can switch out and each die only consists of 1" of material rather than 3" of material.
I hope this made sense as it's certainly difficult to explain in a simple TH-cam comment.
Multi-use bender..that's what it's all about. I bought a Hossfeld clone hydraulic unit last summer. Slowly making dies for it as needed. :-)
haven't seen you for quite a while but REALLY liked this one...thanks!
I work in a Machine/Fab Shop for a living and we have to do modifications like this all the time. Many times we don't know exactly how we are going to do the job we just know that we have to do the job..lol Usually learn something at the end .=-) Great Vid!
I need to make a set of these! One thing I noticed is that if you shim the sides to eliminate side to side play, the thing works better.
Hello there DALE from deep down under across the Pond.
Been watching most of Your videos. There's always something there to learn from, even at our age, we never stop.
Thanks for showing and sharing.
Like some of the other Guys have mentioned, we really think the disturbing music is a terrible distraction as we need to concentrate and listen to U without any other noises. And besides, music is indeed all a matter of individual taste without U really knowing what all the world out there prefers. Just my two cents worth.
ATB
aRM
The video is cool. Like your transitions when processing. Tip: when crushing a shattered bearing out of the outer race, a small groove should be made to engage the knockout.
Great job with the video. I had just purchased one these HF rollers. I have the twisting problem also. I suspect the holes for the shafts are not exactly parallel with each other. Also I suspect I need to shim the sides till the rollers are in exact alignment. However I am not in a production situation so I can take some time to out the twist. Thanks again for your excellent work making the videos...
Nice project. I've made some of my own dues for a similar roller, when bending like you're doing lubrication is important. It helps keep the mushroomed edge of the flat stock from binding. Personally I've had good luck with WD40. Also the bearings take a beating, I drilled my benders shafts by drilling them and adding grease fittings and replaced the bearings with quality shielded ones and removed one side shield. Installed with the open side towards the grease I haven't had to replace them. Originally I was buying the bearings ten at a time. Just my experience, I know there's a hundred ways to do things. If you check the Swag Off Road website it'll give you a lot of ideas what that roller is capable of.
Great video - a couple of ideas I thought of (I'm only starting out so these may be wildly out!). Could you taper the grooves ever so slightly so they are wider nearer to the outer edge. this would compress the excess metal but may cause too much strain on those thin side plates. The other idea I had was to make thicker side plates or strengthen the ones you have to prevent distortion. I am in the process of designing my own but will be using at least 10mm side plates which i hope to get laser cut locally. the rest i will machine. I have the same lathe as you (Different company but obviously from the same factory!) and I have the same issue - I thought it was me at first! I will be taking the apron apart this winter and scraping or lapping all the ways in. I have done this on a smaller lathe and it transformed it. More accurate, less chatter etc. Great video - keep em coming!
I also have this bender. I need to make a stand for this tool. A video showing your ideas on this would be appreciated.
Nice video, thanks for posting!
I have looked carefully into parting tool chatter on my light duty lathe, and I have a couple of recommendations:
1) Make the tailstock stickout as short as possible.
2) Put a machinist jack under the parting tool so most of the cutting force will go straight to the cross slide, and bypass the relatively flimsy foot of the compound slide.
2a) If you'd rather not use a machinist jack, at least position the compound slide so the tool bit is as close to the center of the compound foot as possible.
I have a Grizzly G0602 lathe, and the compound collar is very weak where it is relieved to reveal the protractor. By simply turning the collar around (and obscuring the protractor) the stiffness is vastly improved and the lathe is much more useful.
Great points.
Good information. Maybe try cutting your single rollers into multiple disks for the different sizes, then they could be placed on the axles centre line to the roller frame and eliminate the twisting.
Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think the axel can handle the force.
Ok the die is cast, nice work Dale!
Nice job, I always like video of using tools to make tools for other tools.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos Dale, look me up if in Australia we could build something cool here 2 Americans making something cool down under
I have been thinking about purchasing this roller. Nice to know that it us possible to make dies for it. Awsome video, thanks!
HI, I do want you to know it has its some problem you will have to possibly work though
You can also buy dies from some "offroad" company, but one set costs more than this roller did in the first place...
Congratulations. After 50 yars working I continue loving this works Lacerda - São Paulo - Brazil
I liked the fast pace of this video. Such videos should tell a story which does not require to document each and every step and in full length. Thanks.
Love your videos Dale!👍
I just finished modifying a hf ring roller to a hydraulic motor. I re machined the hf dies for 1x2 rect tube. I have vids on my channel. Nice job with the chromoly.
Hey Dale, you are wrong on the internet. Let me fix that for you.
It is true that drills typically are softer at the shank end, however hardness and stiffness in steel is hardly correlated at all. Hardness only affects how easy it is to dent the surface of a material. The stiffness of hardened steel and mild steel is practically the same. If anything the mild steel will be slightly stiffer. If the hardness of the material was to come in to play then there would have to be dent's left by the drill chuck on the shank of the drill.
The reason you want to use a center drill to start the hole is because it is short and stubby. Take a long rod of material and fasten it to something solid so that only a short length is hanging out. Now try to deflect it. Repeat the experiment but now with a long stick out. You will find that the deflection with the long stick out is way bigger, I'm talking hundreds of times bigger.
Keep up the good work!
Nicely done Dale! A constructive comment, heat treatment of a steel changes the yield point but does not change the modulus of elasticity.
ATB, Robin
Hardening steel does *not* appreciably change its modulus of elasticity. It's a very popular misconception. It does raise the stress it can be subjected to before it becomes permanently bent, but that's not what is being discussed (in relation to twist drills vs centre drills) at about the 4 min mark.
Centre drills are stiffer because they're short and stocky, not because they're thru-hardened.
Great video as always.. really interesting tips .
Great idea. I had thought of building something like this, but I had not thought about using one of those rollers from Harbor freight, that would really cut down on the build time. I've watched a couple of your videos now and I am adding you to the playlist so to speak. Havn't turned a tv on in a couple years, much better programming on here than the trash on tv....
Thanks for your comment.Glad I could help.
Awesome as usual, isn't Dale ? Greetings.
Lot of tips. Thank you for sharing
Thanks :-)
Nice flip flops @5:44! Great video though, glad I found the new channel name.
That's awesome!!lol
That was pretty cool.
Great video Dale. Thanks ..
seen another guy use a dailindicator for measuring the dept if a cut , he used a dail indicator with a magnet (gleud?) on the back
he stuck the indicator with the magnet to the bed and dailed off the cariage , its a lot faster to set up compared to using the dail indicator on a arm
after youre done stick the dail indicator out of the way like a fridge magnet
thanks for this Dale, i need to make something similar for my section roller. Thanks for sharing
excellent video... thumbs up!
Turned out great man, I really like your videos. Next install two guide rails with linear bearing on the moving die.
you kind of OKAY...! ! :D Keep rolling old man,
if you used some think like a transmission jack on the large wheel side it would help the jig from twisting or cobble together a bottom screw on the bender, like the top one so you have a complete bracket supporting the drive wheel from the top and bottom.
I like the idea of the set screw.
You pointed out some great tips at the beginning. Thanks so much for that. I always wondered how to make a bend metal like that. Can you turn down the music a bit? I like it but a bit to loud. Great new stile video. Keep it up.
Your boring was not boring. Liked your video.
What is that self driving dog called? Never seen one. Cool project. I use bent strips like that to make bucks for metal shaping. I made similar dies for my bead roller but the machine couldn't take the forces. This might be the ticket.
Nice video, Im always learning.
Me too Ben :-)
man! you have one of the toughest crowds to please i have ever seen on youtube! it seems people always have something negative to say to contradict their "complement." shame, really... i loved the video however. great work as always
Couldn't have said it better. We get a pretty tough crowd over on our channel too, to the point that it can be off-putting. I don't think many people mean harm, more that thing about how if you ask three machinists for an opinion you'll get four answers.
This beats his doll collection.
..
Yeah, I noticed that too. I started a Build thread way back when I rebuild my engine of my Honda S2000, using an Accord Crankshaft and turning a 2.0 Liter into a 2.4Liter. I was working at a Machine Shop and we did all our machining in-house and completely different than any other people have ever approached it. Most guys where dropping $3000 in custom machine work plus another $2k in parts. With the free labor I did everything for $1100 and got nothing but hate, so I deleted 4 mos. worth of documented build thread and said fuck em! Like Rodney Dangerfield, Got No Respect!
When I had my band saw I found that lubing the cut helped in cutting but caused the blade to slip on the wheels.
Interested in making some 3.5 inch dies? Trying to find some rollers to form stainless steel tubing
Nice work Dale
hey Dale, that gadget is where your anchor lube would really shine. a light application to the sides of the bar being bent should make it run through the dies a little easier sine the metal is being forced against the side walls of the dies.
personally i don't like the anchor lube in cutting applications because it prevents adequate chip evacuation and recirculates the chips too much. on the lathe i use at work the coolant system is great because it flushes out the chips when doing a deep groove like you did for the dies with the cutoff tool.
also at this juncture i have to side with some of the critics that the background music was a little overwhelming. excellent narration throughout though! some of the youtubers would do well to follow that lead.
If anchor lube needs washing off each time, I'd imagine moly grease etc would do the job, or soap just to save money.
Thanks Ill give it a try
Ja das ist eine gute Maschine zum Schablone anfertigen oder für meine Arbeit braucht Rolle mit kleinere Durchmesser
love your work dale keep it up from down under lol
Just spitballin here, hows about if ya wuz to make those rollers in interchangeable sections, say 3 sections per roller, each section with a different size groove. Ya jus put the one you wants in the center and an give er! Now yous gots a multi use tool withouts the twisting ??? You could make roller sections for all kinda profiles and use a little less material while youre at it.
Dale, I miss your videos!
Hi! Your video has encouraged me to keep working with my harbor freight roller. Would you have any ideas on how to install lateral guide rolls?
Your awesome...so refreshing
Or... if you don't have a lathe, just call up Troy at Off Road Swag. He's got all the dies for the HF roller, including the "hard way" roller dies. I've got about 10 die sets from him. I'll probably upgrade to his ring roller, as the HF ring roller side plates are super soft metal, and worbble out the holes so it's no longer square.
I noticed you long feeding by hand when roughing out the roller blank. Every cut following was by auto feed. What's the reason behind this? Great video. I don't need music to keep me interested. I like the sped up parts to keep the time from drawing out too long.
Well Done !!!
I know this is older but whenever you use a smaller boring bar get a old bicycle innertube cut it into inch wide and 1/2" strips and tightly wrap the end of your boring bar and secure with some rubber bands and it will greatly reduce your vibration and chatter 👍👍👍
Nice job. It would be interesting to try centering the slot on the HF roller rather than working at the edge... (?) or adding a HDPE spacer between the drive roller and the frame maybe? As to the harmonic issue: Sometimes adding mass to the lathe / tool post can significantly dampen the vibration / noise. I have seen / tried several things like blocks of lead, heavy magnets and even sand bags. Yes: it increases the hazard of something getting in the way or caught but it is effective. Vibration in a grooving tool extended way out like that can also be mitigated by sistering it as far as possible, "leading" the bottom edge (with Pb or HDPE), and even by placing a small machinist clamp on the underside (clearance provided of course). For one-off pieces the tiny clamp (or two) is the least effort - second of course to ear plugs and muffs over them. The viscosity of the lube/cutting fluid and/or chemical composition can make a big difference as well but you may have to trade off for smoke and fumes accordingly. Finding the perfect speed/cutting angle/rotation can be frustrating though. Thanks for enduring it to share your idea.
I put the grove On the edge so I could put larger groves on the other part of the rollers some day
Figured you had a reason.
Thanks for the follow-up.
Spent some time on the lathe today and thought of you. Turning some 2" round stock down to make shafts. Part was singing no matter what speed I cut at . So I wrapped it in painters tape and it worked. Cut the noise and reduced chatter too. (she's seen some miles). Plus I could make notes on the tape to keep track of my cuts and dial readings whenever I got interrupted. It was worth it for that alone. Anyway... Thanks again.
Great video!(second time i see it)... i learned a lot, thanks. Where do you source the boring bars..
Now you could cut more slots for different size's of materials in the same rollers. 1/8 x 1, 1/4 x 1 and so on. all would be on one set of die's.
Cool project.
Hey - Great Stuff Man. Thanks...
Abom79 is the man to watch for the best technique on dialling in a 4 jaw chuck.
He is the 4jaw man
Tubalcain has a great one, too.
try kieth fenner hes the champ
Put a bevel or 1° draft on the roller dies. That may help wedge and keep the the bar from not working with you.
Great project
Thank for watching
Great job...
Thanks
Elastic modulus does not change appreciably as a result of hardening. Yield strength and ultimate strength change as a result of hardening.
great video learned something cool
Thanks
Kind of a cowboy? Ha! You are all cowboy Dale. Very nice video indeed.
Thanks :-)
What kind of lathe were you using if you don’t mind me asking??? I loved how smooth it was
Maybe a little less volume on the background music, like by 50%?
You mentioned the dies had some difficulty rolling the flat stock. Would it work better if you center the groove just like pipe dies?
Ordered a 10" x 22 Grizzly lathe as a beginner.
great video!
Thanks :-)