my humble suggestion about the procedure of this work,if firstly make a "v"groove near to required dimension with the compound rest ,and make a rough shape radius groove using a radius tool, finally finished that the job with the tool you can used in this video showing .it may reduce your physical effort and get more speed to finish your job.any way it is very great effort you did.👍
seen someone use a adjustable holle cutter (for a mill ) for sumtin like this , there adjustable so you can make the radius any size you like using the same tool
VERY good piece of advise. Some of the chips of this part are long and razor sharp. I hope I didn't do this here without realizing, I do have some pliers to hand I was using which make an appearance here and there.
Other than the terrible WAAAHHHH noise of your lathe in my headphones, this is fantastic! Now I need to try this. So, I need to make a jig for my crappy Atlas and 2; make sure my steel supplier doesn't screw me for the blanks! Thanks for the video.
Yeah, sorry, it's quite a noisy motor, I took off the old one and replaced it with a larger one which is much louder than it was standard. Some metal suppliers will chop short lengths (2" minimum or so) off a large diameter round bar for parts like this.
The dies I made create a circular channel for the tubes, I went with 0.010 clearance which is 1% of the tube diameter and also the tolerance the tubes are made to. They work just fine.
Nice work James. I was just in a shop yesterday getting a demonstration of a tube bender at work and my immediate thought was how to make my own dies for different sized materials and different finished curvatures. I will also need to make straight followers and there was your TH-cam - half the answer waiting there for me. Well done. The material you used, was it cast iron? Now the next step, making the follower which has a straight section with the matching curve may be a challenge. I was thinking of holding the work end on in a vice and machining on the mill with a boring bar and slowly working outwards with the diameter set in a similar way to how your cutting head ran on the lathe. Any thoughts?
Hi, the steel is EN3B. I've been thinking about a straight follower myself, my plan was to use a ball end mill of the same size as the tube done horizontally on a mill, possibly moving side to side a little at the end to get a slightly larger radius. I'm sure a boring bar would work too.
James, soon I will be lucky enough to collect a second hand tool and cutter grinder from a die making machine factory that was happy to part with one for a good price. The best thing about this is that I will also be able to learn from the staff there how to make stuff on this useful tool. Maybe I could shape a tool that could go on the milling machine that would cut the curve quickly, like a large format ball end mill. Rough it out with a boring bar and finish with the super-sized ball end cutter. I also picked up some super sized drill bits and reamers from a second hand machine shop that is going into liquidation. All I need is an 1-7/16" drill bit and 1-1/2" reamer and slice the end result down the middle and the job would be done quickly. Now all I need is a huge drill press that has a morse 5 or 6 taper head. Not sure if they come that big but that I cannot justify. It never ends. However, today I picked up my markup table that was surface ground across the full width {900mm} with what looked like 2/3rds of the width of the slash grinder disc. The finish is beautiful and smooth. This factory has huge machines. Makes mine look tiny by comparison.
Very nice James. I notice you made dies for different tubing diameters. Did you end up making different sized insert holders and extra posts to manage the different diameters? If the insert holder could slide back and forth and be adjustable (kind of like those lantern style lathe tool holders) would the rigidity be a concern? Thanks, nice video.
That steel is basically SAE 1020. You wont get any hardness to it. See if you can find someone who does industrial hard chrome single step. About .0100 mm.or .0005 inch. It doesn't need to be hammer hard or thick. Just slippery hard if that makes sense.Especially with stainless pipe. It'll gall like hell on plain steel or another piece of stailess but slide right over hard chrome or that Delron some dies are made with
Would it be an idea to increase rpm to compensate for large diameter (with carbide insert). Maybe get better chips and be quicker? Any pros know the answer?
he talked about it going 600ft/min. That would be about the right speed for any steel that you can harden or 4140 and 4150. For just mild steel it would be a little on the low tho.
That lathe is sold in the US as a Smithy & various knock offs with a mill head, total crap, poorly engineered & worse manufacturing . Do you have some kind of backgear? Mine did not & while you could swing 12" you couldn't turn more than 2-3 because the speed was too high unless you bought their uber expensive planetary reduction sheave.
£300 quid I paid, amazing what you can do with it if you're patient. Usually very patient... 180rpm is the slowest you can go with the standard belts on mine, carbide tooling at this radius is fine.
Excellent video, best one I've seen on making your own dies!!
Brilliant...cheers from the USA, Paul
Nice job James!
Wooooow that lathe set up is Legit
my humble suggestion about the procedure of this work,if firstly make a "v"groove near to required dimension with the compound rest ,and make a rough shape radius groove using a radius tool, finally finished that the job with the tool you can used in this video showing .it may reduce your physical effort and get more speed to finish your job.any way it is very great effort you did.👍
Excellent, you know exactly what you are doing, and using home made tooling.
Thank you very much for the video. Now i know to make my pulley.
Great and cool method. Thank you for your painstaking work more grease to your elbow and more wisdom always.
great work but what about the following die can you show making it thanks
Great idea James!👍
Nice work great job, all the best from Birmingham uk 👍
seen someone use a adjustable holle cutter (for a mill ) for sumtin like this , there adjustable so you can make the radius any size you like using the same tool
Great job sir......I like it..... continue to this job God bless you
DONT EVER GRAB SWARF WITH A BARE HAND WITH THE LATHE RUNNING!!!!!!!!!
if it grabs it it will take the skin off you finger like a glove.
VERY good piece of advise. Some of the chips of this part are long and razor sharp. I hope I didn't do this here without realizing, I do have some pliers to hand I was using which make an appearance here and there.
Yep.Done that before,will never do it again lol.
Other than the terrible WAAAHHHH noise of your lathe in my headphones, this is fantastic! Now I need to try this. So, I need to make a jig for my crappy Atlas and 2; make sure my steel supplier doesn't screw me for the blanks! Thanks for the video.
Yeah, sorry, it's quite a noisy motor, I took off the old one and replaced it with a larger one which is much louder than it was standard. Some metal suppliers will chop short lengths (2" minimum or so) off a large diameter round bar for parts like this.
Your ideas brilliant..amazing...👍👍👍
Which is the relationship between the tube diameter and the diameter of the Die ???
I really love show did you have have video bout tube die how to make it
Nice job, thanks for sharing.
...,,
hello ... very good job you make it easy to do it ..... it looked dangerous when you pass the sandpaper and you have long sleeves ..... greetings
Excellent idea
Got skills mate.
it"s wonderful work ! thank you very much
Brilliant my man that's awesome
How did you get the blank piece? I mean is it there a rod 250 mm díameter? Soldered seversl pieces or how did you do it?
Where was the raw material taken from?
How did the die work? I was under the assumption that the dies were not a perfect radius. I thought more side clearance that .010 was needed .
The dies I made create a circular channel for the tubes, I went with 0.010 clearance which is 1% of the tube diameter and also the tolerance the tubes are made to. They work just fine.
what type of steel is the die made from?
Very nice job thanks for this trick
Nice work James. I was just in a shop yesterday getting a demonstration of a tube bender at work and my immediate thought was how to make my own dies for different sized materials and different finished curvatures. I will also need to make straight followers and there was your TH-cam - half the answer waiting there for me. Well done. The material you used, was it cast iron?
Now the next step, making the follower which has a straight section with the matching curve may be a challenge. I was thinking of holding the work end on in a vice and machining on the mill with a boring bar and slowly working outwards with the diameter set in a similar way to how your cutting head ran on the lathe. Any thoughts?
Hi, the steel is EN3B. I've been thinking about a straight follower myself, my plan was to use a ball end mill of the same size as the tube done horizontally on a mill, possibly moving side to side a little at the end to get a slightly larger radius. I'm sure a boring bar would work too.
James, soon I will be lucky enough to collect a second hand tool and cutter grinder from a die making machine factory that was happy to part with one for a good price. The best thing about this is that I will also be able to learn from the staff there how to make stuff on this useful tool. Maybe I could shape a tool that could go on the milling machine that would cut the curve quickly, like a large format ball end mill. Rough it out with a boring bar and finish with the super-sized ball end cutter. I also picked up some super sized drill bits and reamers from a second hand machine shop that is going into liquidation. All I need is an 1-7/16" drill bit and 1-1/2" reamer and slice the end result down the middle and the job would be done quickly. Now all I need is a huge drill press that has a morse 5 or 6 taper head. Not sure if they come that big but that I cannot justify. It never ends. However, today I picked up my markup table that was surface ground across the full width {900mm} with what looked like 2/3rds of the width of the slash grinder disc. The finish is beautiful and smooth. This factory has huge machines. Makes mine look tiny by comparison.
Sounds like you're getting there! Good luck
Peter Marsh, check with tool supply shops they may have suitable adaptors that can fit in a smaller MT and take that particular MT
Do you know how many mm diameter of this you made need tube 63.5mm?
Can i order you sir, stainlees pipe bender.?
What's the stock composition?
Seu trabalho é muito bom, obrigado por compartilhar .
Nice job!!!
What type of steel did you use?
How much would you charge to make the same die but for 1.25" steel tubing?
I’ve been waiting over a month to get one from JD Square
What is the actual time you used to finish the job?
How much would it cost?
Wow! Very impressive
Very nice James. I notice you made dies for different tubing diameters. Did you end up making different sized insert holders and extra posts to manage the different diameters? If the insert holder could slide back and forth and be adjustable (kind of like those lantern style lathe tool holders) would the rigidity be a concern? Thanks, nice video.
And I've love to see more of your tube bender and the follow die you may have made.
how much would you charge to make a 1 1/2 die ?
excellent job
Good job man!! 👍
That is brilliant how you are making the Dies. Do you need to harden them before using them?
Hi. I haven't hardened them yet. They are on the machine making parts. At some point I will make some more and then get those ones hardened.
That steel is basically SAE 1020. You wont get any hardness to it. See if you can find someone who does industrial hard chrome single step. About .0100 mm.or .0005 inch. It doesn't need to be hammer hard or thick. Just slippery hard if that makes sense.Especially with stainless pipe. It'll gall like hell on plain steel or another piece of stailess but slide right over hard chrome or that Delron some dies are made with
valveman12
i think you turning good.thank you very good
Nice thought
James very good
i think use thread tip make a good radius
Great job James, exactly what I was needing to know. Tell me were you using 4140 for the die?
Nice homemade one it's the same toolbit holder l made more than 20 yrs. ago.
Nice video
Friend, have you modified the lathe holder or is it original?
I liked the way the tool is stuck.
Good job very good..from indonesia
How did you harden it?
by looking at dirty pictures
ótima solução para um trabalho bem difícil , de ser executado , parabéns!!!!
great job!!
exelente ! saludos desde argentina
He sounds like Brian May
Thank you very much
giroo ji aap kaise banaye ho is tool k
Great job sir ji
Exelente forma de definir una tarea!! Probaré!
Would it be an idea to increase rpm to compensate for large diameter (with carbide insert). Maybe get better chips and be quicker? Any pros know the answer?
he talked about it going 600ft/min. That would be about the right speed for any steel that you can harden or 4140 and 4150. For just mild steel it would be a little on the low tho.
pq q o som tá em estéreo e só tá saindo de um lado?
Safety first, you're wearing a long sleeve..
Good work Good Job nice think
Where did you get 50 or 54mm plate, may i ask!!!
Me gusto su metodo
Gracias
why worry about centering the cut, just face it after...
excellent
It was necessary to make at first a flute for simplification!
thanks for sharing....
It's nice but how can make inside same ??
Good 👍👍
Genial desconosia ese metodo gracias
Nice
Witam Kolegę podoba mi się pomysł świetny pozdrawiam
Noice !
Nice...
No audio
le e mandando un correo para una maquina de tubo 2x6 rectangular ..
Exelent
Terbaik 👍
Классно. 👍
Nice!
You should go to woodprix if you'd like to make it yourself mate.
Молодець!
دمتگرم اوستا
That lathe is sold in the US as a Smithy & various knock offs with a mill head, total crap, poorly engineered & worse manufacturing
. Do you have some kind of backgear? Mine did not & while you could swing 12" you couldn't turn more than 2-3 because the speed was too high unless you bought their uber expensive planetary reduction sheave.
£300 quid I paid, amazing what you can do with it if you're patient. Usually very patient... 180rpm is the slowest you can go with the standard belts on mine, carbide tooling at this radius is fine.
I've got one of the smithy 1340s and it works really well for home hobby use. But it does have some pretty big shortcomings and limitations.
Mucha velocidad.
Qué habras demora 2 días
بسیار الی
Sorry friend, your audio is very poor.
Abubakermaher
shak
علاء الحداد
Nice sir please check my video on diameter radius
d
you sound weak and about to cry or run away?